excellent vlog! reality of a surf trip for us mortal people. I recently went on a trip in the Maldives where every reef break was shallow AF and pumping. I did the same as you, paddled out the first day, sized it up for maybe at least 1-2 hours, caught a few softer shoulders, but still gnarly. Then, I packed a decent set wave, ended up way down the reef in inches of water where I sliced my foot on razor sharp coral. Several scars this trip, but over a 5 day period (two 3 hour sessions per day), I think I averaged 2 decent no joke waves per day with a handful of several smaller, still serious waves because of the reef. It's all about setting your expectations properly -- e.g. not expecting 12 epic waves per session. Sometimes one or two are enough, staying within your limits, and try not to get sliced!
Yep, it’s all simply building awareness. I’m extremely comfortable on reef, and surfing solid reef. I’ve lived or been in / out of Indonesia for years. But a wave at this size, and this consequence, and this criticality…. It needs a different and more measured approach.
Great stuff man..love the longer form content and kool to see an experienced accomplished surfer being honest about fatigue and fear..what collagen powder do ya use?
I,m Old kook now Hts very intimidating Nearly all of those rippers have been charging waves like that since their 20s or younger and if you're not doing it by your 30s you're probably never gonna do it That's reality Too many mental blocks and common sense You know and have seen what can happen Seen guys scalped holes punched in their guys and skull Yes one of the most prettiest but heaviest also Wear a helmet !! Not that I did much too stupid Certainly all those core strength and flexibility exercises are gonna help Keep up the good work 👌 Just my thoughts from 50 years of surfing and observations Was like that day when I first surfed it but more perfect Our boat only guys on it all morning
Hahah. Yes, agreed. Although I had ball bay pretty solid a few years back, and that in/out of the rocks was probably the most sketch rock jump I’ve ever had
So good to see an honest surfer and an honest swell! Not instagrammed hype perfection but what really happens…
💯
Incredible footage! The way you handle those waves is absolutely inspiring-this is the definition of next-level surfing! 💯
This was so good Cris!
Great to see someone admit their limits with the surf as well, we all know 99.9999% of surfers would not surf this
Great vid Cris. I like the format of these vlog type videos. Those double-up sections at 19:00 are sick!
Yeah bro, keeping it real as always Cris. Love your work
excellent vlog! reality of a surf trip for us mortal people. I recently went on a trip in the Maldives where every reef break was shallow AF and pumping. I did the same as you, paddled out the first day, sized it up for maybe at least 1-2 hours, caught a few softer shoulders, but still gnarly. Then, I packed a decent set wave, ended up way down the reef in inches of water where I sliced my foot on razor sharp coral. Several scars this trip, but over a 5 day period (two 3 hour sessions per day), I think I averaged 2 decent no joke waves per day with a handful of several smaller, still serious waves because of the reef. It's all about setting your expectations properly -- e.g. not expecting 12 epic waves per session. Sometimes one or two are enough, staying within your limits, and try not to get sliced!
Yep, it’s all simply building awareness. I’m extremely comfortable on reef, and surfing solid reef. I’ve lived or been in / out of Indonesia for years. But a wave at this size, and this consequence, and this criticality…. It needs a different and more measured approach.
loved the vlog! please start making more vlogs like this! the and post surf stuff is sick!
Great stuff man..love the longer form content and kool to see an experienced accomplished surfer being honest about fatigue and fear..what collagen powder do ya use?
Collagen… whatever is on sale. And yeah, the surf world is full of false ego and bravado. It’s irritating and a facade
@@SurfStrengthCoach kool..got some min..expecting superhuman recovery now..XD
Great stuff Cris, loved your email. Thank you
Thank you 🙏
These videos are ace.
Hey can I ask what are you using to film? Go Pro?
Some go pro, some iPhone
Bro, what’s your hair routine?
I,m Old kook now
Hts very intimidating
Nearly all of those rippers have been charging waves like that since their 20s or younger and if you're not doing it by your 30s you're probably never gonna do it
That's reality
Too many mental blocks and common sense
You know and have seen what can happen
Seen guys scalped holes punched in their guys and skull
Yes one of the most prettiest but heaviest also
Wear a helmet !!
Not that I did much too stupid
Certainly all those core strength and flexibility exercises are gonna help
Keep up the good work 👌
Just my thoughts from 50 years of surfing and observations
Was like that day when I first surfed it but more perfect
Our boat only guys on it all morning
Ball Bay bit easier Chriso
Hahah. Yes, agreed. Although I had ball bay pretty solid a few years back, and that in/out of the rocks was probably the most sketch rock jump I’ve ever had
scary wave...i didnt get in the water, it was 6ft ...
Haha. Yeah. I’ve been there!
bla...bla.....bring more kooks
Sick vid, (love the cats) keep ‘em’ coming🤙
…I must say your pre/post routine is much better than my couple of Garams and a can of coke.