Thanks! Your video saved my day. Easter Sunday, today, with a load of jeans halfway through. The load was severely unbalanced but the washer didn't catch it and kept spinning. Shook the whole house and walked the previously stable washer across the laundry room to the length of its hoses before I could stop it. The entire tub was sitting crooked in the housing and, of course, could not spin for 5 seconds without banging around again. I didn't have a clue how to get inside and started with the top - wrong. I found your video and easily pulled the front off and saw that one of the tub "feet" had jumped over the wobble barrier on one side and stuck there. I lifted it back over, buttoned everything back up and it worked again - at least as well as this washer ever worked. Thanks, again!
came here to say exactly this! you saved me time and money just being able to see what it's SUPPOSED to look like in there! had this exact same issue and saved my week 💕
Excellent information. I was able to replace the tub seal using this video. Hint: If your leaking out the bottom and it's not the pump check the tub seal.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Thanks. While some steps of this video were not 100% accurate to my 2009 GE Profile washing machine, I was able to disassemble and locate the issue. On my 5 yr old washing machine, the tub became unbalanced and was making a banging noise during spin cycles, similar to when its contents are unbalanced. After disassembling the agitator (very simple procedure by following this video and which everyone should do annually to inspect), the main issue was revealed: *the metal base that hides under the visible plastic agitator had RUSTED and broken loose from the tub*. Nearly 1/2 the circumference of the tub's metal base was broken/disconnected, and the *entire* metal base was corroded and rusted. The metal base, which allows the motor assembly to turn the tub, is prone to water exposure and rust. And, the upper part of thge tub (plastic top section) was audibly full of water but there was no obvious way to empty it out even after pulling out the entire tub. In summary, after seeing all of the debris sitting at the bottom of the outer tub (inside of which sits the main tub where clothes go), and the horrendous odor of the stale water, it's clearly an engineering disaster. Not sure if other manufacturers have such poor designs but I would NOT recommend a GE model after experiencing this ... and having it die after 5 short years of life.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Thanks for these great videos! I had a 14yo T-model (front-serviceable, top-loader) GE Washer with a bad transmission, so I bought a similar model broken washer on Craig's List which is about half that age, and which has a good transmission. The newer washer has a flimsy cost-reduced top frame (like the one in this video), and the front section was bent down pretty badly, but I hammered it back into shape, and it seems okay now. Also, the tub cover's attachment point for one of the dampening straps was broken off, and the timer knob was bad, so I replaced those broken parts with parts from my old washer. The repaired washer is now working well, except for one small issue. The problem is that when the washer fills up, the platform that holds the motor, transmission & tub drops down so low that it rubs the bottom panel, except on the "small" load setting. The formerly-bent top-front frame doesn't seem to be sagging, yet the tub hangs quite a bit lower than the tub did on my old machine. What's the best way to raise it? I think it needs to be almost 1/2 inch higher than it is now, but even 1/4 inch would help. I don't see any obvious adjustment mechanism, but I've thought of several possible ways to do it: 1. Bend the top-front frame upward further, but that would only raise the front, and it wouldn't raise it very much. 2. Shim the suspension rods at the top. 3. Shim the suspension rods at the bottom, under the spring holders. 4. Bend the bottom panel down, so it is closer to the floor, to add clearance from the tub/motor/transmission platform. I could also use the transmission from the newer washer to repair the older one, instead of using parts from the older one to repair the newer one, but that seems much harder! What is the best way to solve this problem?
You might find it is effective to bend your four suspenders:they will readily bend with a box wrench.just slip your wrench over the rod,have at it! This method gives you excellent control: 1 bend or more; varrying clock position makes micro adjustment a snap!
I have a 1984 GE top-loader with a corroded outer drum. I just used a hairdryer to heat, and remove the cap. I'm Clueless, however, on how to remove the cap UNDER the cap. I also have some stuck fasteners to deal with. And I don't think this model has a removable front panel...only the back panel front panel seems to come off.
I have this same washer. When it is loaded and filled the belt pulley rubs on the bottom framework making a loud rubbing noise. My question is, are the tub support rods adjustable so I can lift the tub up slightly to eliminate the rubbing condition?
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Seems easy enough... I want to disassemble mine and clean up all the gunk that is visible on the inside of the drum... yeah, "they" (women) keep washing tennis shoes or dog towels and the machine is randomly not doing the "drain and spin"... then when I use the shop vac to empty the water, the thing will magically work again.. for 2 or 3 weeks. This will help, thank you. Oh... that big nut was a pain to remove.... it's way tighter than the video show, specially on a used machine.
So many views but not enough likes. Just saved me $500 by not having to buy a new washing machine. Needed access to the pump. If you stop and watched up 1:15 seconds give the video a like Thank you
I have a GE Profile Washer, model number WPRE6100G1WT. The designated washing machine breaker in my home's breaker box trips as soon as the washer is plugged into the outlet or when a breaker reset is attempted. No LED lights appear on the control panel, even momentarily. My best guess is a short in the washer's motor. Any additional thoughts regarding a diagnosis of the trouble would be appreciated.
HI have the same model washer. I had checked it today and saw that there was a sputter of what looked like grease all over the bottom metal base of the washer. I also checked the agitator and the bolt was partially loose. The washer makes an abnormal loud noise when washing. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
THANK YOU! You just made my life easy... your video helped me get it apart and your website helped me diagnose the problem..... and hey your parts are a great value.... Thanks again...
Excellent video. Your lectures are very helpful . Are there top loading brands that tend to need less repairs? I am looking for a new top load washer and the reviews are all over the place as far as which ones break down more often, and which ones appear to need fewer repairs. Thank you.
Thank you very much for posting this! I was searching around for a guide like this for my GE 131 model. In the end, my problem was very easy to fix. Thanks again!
This could be quite a few different things. We recommend using the repair help section of our website (link in the description). If you enter your model number there you'll have access to model, part and symptom specific repair help that will assist you in diagnosing your problem.
my washer this exact same machine won't agitate or spin, it's not the lid switch or air pressure switch, the hose it isn't clogged, i checked the motor coupling. I guess the only other thing is the motor? I checked all the sensor lights and it didn't say there was something wrong with motor?
Great video. My 5-7 yr old GE machine is making a lot of squeaking during agitation only, Otherwise runs well. Any ideas? New belt? New transmission? Please advise.
With the model you've provided the agitator should pull off of the bolt without removing the cap. If the agitator won't pull off of the bolt when pulled straight up, you can use a rope underneath the bottom of the agitator to assist you.
My GE top loader which is fairly new started leaking the bleach when we put it in the reservoir. Bleach hit the floor...Not Cool. I have no idea besides a loose tube why that would happen. Fear Not! for Repair Clinic has Overcome the Top Loader! :) Thanks for a perfect detailed informational Video RC! If anyone knows what Im up against here, and has had a prior battle with the bleach pirates...Please lemme know. Ill be diggin in later today. Thanks! Rock
Hi there. Have an old-model GE top-load washing machine. Have thoroughly cleaned out the detergent tray, and the slot that the tray fits into, but am still getting bits of black/brown gunk/muck left behind on the clothes. Any idea where this gunk is lurking? Thanks.
Francis Sims We sell www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Spanner-Wrench/TB123A/1021707?TSLID=1773 which uses that adapter shown in the picture for the GE models. We also have the one shown in the video, but it is expensive. www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Nut-Wrench/WX5X1325/753880?TLSID=1773
This video is a huge help! Unfortunately, I got all the way to the removal of the agitator bolt step to discover that my 2007 GE washer has an agitator cap beneath the fabric softener dispenser that seems to be glued on, with no easy way of prying it off. (GE's site claims I need a certified technician to remove it.) If I were to pry this cap off by any means necessary, is there a way to glue it back on? (If I can't remove it to pull the inner tub out, I'm going to have to buy a new machine--this one has gunk buildup that no amount of bleach and vinegar seems capable of eliminating.) In any case, thank you for this great video; at least I know now that I did all I could to salvage it....
Grendel73 We have never seen a washer agitator cap glued on. Perhaps your model requires you to lift the whole agitator off the drive hub and the bolt is under it.
great video...I have a squeak that starts up when the tub begins to turn or is at it's slowest turn cycle....once it speeds up, there is no noise. I've removed the front panel and sprayed wd40 on the bearings but no change...any ideas before i take the tub out?
It could be a few different things. We recommend using the repair help section of our website with your washer's model number: www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Washing-Machine-Repair-Help?TLSID=1722
I have a washer that is very similar to this one. Lately the washer has been pausing on its own during the wash, forcing me to hit the start button to resume washing. Could there be something wrong with the timer? Also sometimes its pauses on the wash portion of the cycle and I am unable to restart it..the wash light remains blinking....any help would be appreciated
Yes I'm answering 3 year old post. There is a shipping rod that you remove during the installation. The rod is there to keep the tub still and from moving during transporting. The rod is attached to a yellow pull tab and located on the right side of the exterior machine. Keep that rod incase you'll ever move.
My unit is missing the model and serial number, this appears to be the same model as mine. Would I be able to get the model number from you? I need to replace the control circuit board.
Mine does the same thing, but it does it constantly through out the whole wash cycle... Spin is the worst, on spin the tub just flops around and beats the hell out of the inside of the washer. I think it's something to do with the straps at the top of the tub being stretched and worn out possibly
I was able to remove the 1 1/16" nut with the spanner wrench but have been unable to lift out the inner basket. It is still attached in some way to the outer tub. My washer is a 2011 GE profile that looks very similar to the one in this video. Any thoughts?
***** Thanks. I was able to remove the inner basket. I ended up having to remove both outer and inner basket from the frame and then was able to get more leverage and the basket came right out.
GE appliances GTW330ASKWW washer, i can't figure out out to get to the inside of the washer to replace the drain pump and motor, no front panel, GE would not tell me how to get inside
How do you clean out the pressure chamber in the outside of the outter tub? It doesn't appear to be removable, but mine has a blockage that nothing I've tried so far will dissolve
I had no problem following the procedures, a great video. BUT! THERE IS a big difference between the machine he is working on and a 10 year lot one when you get down to needing a special tool to remove the 11/16" nut that is now corroded and ceased. That's exactly where I figured I would have a problem.and that's where it ended. I put it All back together and we'll use it til it no longer works. Grinding away.
I have no experience so I may not know proper terminology. I am disassembling and ran into the 1 11/16 nut and don't have the wrench available. I take a look underneath and discover the belt pulley (?) is marred and gouged. It appears as if it is hitting the two brackets on the bottom of the washer that line up with the two brackets on the motor board as seen at the 3:52 mark in this video. What would cause this? I suspect this is the source of the metal on metal screeching noise my washer makes only on the wash/ agitation cycle. Any suggestions?
Is it really necessarily to have the tub nut wrench? We're using a pipe wrench that closes tight and we are hitting the wrench with a hammer, yet we can't get seem to get nut to even budge. It's frustrating - we got all the way to this part and can't get any farther.
Cathy Gi If you cannot get it off with your pipe wrench than we recommend getting one. Here is a cheaper option than the one we use in the video. www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Spanner-Wrench/TB123A/1021707?TLSID=1773
my ge washer same model is not spinning. drain pump works. pressure hose not pluggled with crap. tried switching the lid switch. reset tried that too. no luck please help. belt is ok too.
I have the same washer It recently started acting up when I'm going to rinse cycle it wants to switch back to wash cycle and vice versa sometimes it likes just keep on flickering and I have to switch the dialer to medium load our light load and start all over sometimes I have to unplug it and wait a couple hours for it to work.do you know what my problem may be and how to fix it?
+RepairClinic.com thank you for the information I just had one question is the timer on the control panel so I should buy the whole control panel? Thanks again
As a follow-up to my prior feedback, I recently purchased a new *Samsung* washer which included a TEN year warranty due in part to its directly-connected motor (no belt, etc).
My agitator seems to be just going around and around instead of agitating back and forth. What could be causing this. It is not cleaning my clothes very well plus leaves a lot of lint on clothes. It is an older model GE.
If your model has agitator dogs and a coupler that's where I would look first as they are plastic and do wear out over time...oh and they are pretty inexpensive to purchase! Hope this helps
My fill light keeps blinking. As if the lid switch is open even when the door is close. Replaced the switch, still doing the same thing. Can't get anything to work even during a trouble shooting test. Is it the panel or does this unit have a motor fuse that when breaks freezes everything. It's blinking and beeping as if the flood protection was tripped.
Your lid switch is operated by a magnet. We recommend that you make sure the magnet that actuates the switch is still in the lid. You can open the lid and use a different magnet to actuate the switch. You could use a meter to check it where it connects to the control board. If you have a motor with a control board on it, either the motor or the control could be bad. If you have power to the control board but it won’t go through the cycle and all the other components check out OK, the control board is most likely the cause.
Thank you, check them both and discovered the motor control board was burned towards the back. Bad motor! Thank you for a quick reply. Your videos are extremely helpful.
Fridaire dryer stack model makes a noise when drying . It is not attached to washer and makes loud sound while spinning It is not attached to washer in front What do I do to fix it
Hello, I have a problem with a washer model WHDRR418G1WW. I have watched several videos, including yours which is the best, but have been unable to determine how to remove the "dust cap" which sits below the fabric softener assebly on the top of the agitator stack. It seems that the dust cap is integral and I cannot get past it to pull the agitator out. Does anyone have any advice?
My washer stops after the wash load and doesn't spin out. I have to mess with the controls, unplug the washer and eventually the cycle will move on to the rinse cycle. Any idea why this happens? Could it be the computer?
Which part is the apron? The machine makes a pretty loud grinding noise when in the agitate cycle.....but otherwise works fine. Literature I have read online suggest that my model is prone to a "sagging apron" and that there is a kit to fix it.My model is WHRE5550K2WW
Nice video but removing the tub bolt is not as easy as he is doing it (I am sure his nut was pre-loosened). A lot of banging with a hammer and tub wrench and finally it started to move, lots of banging.. Remember folks......its a left hand thread!
I'm pretty sure I have this exact washer (mine is model WLRE4500GIWW). Yesterday it started making awful noises when it started spinning. I believe I may need to replace a belt or something else. Does this model have a belt? If so, would I be able to access it easier by turning it over and going through the bottom?
Wow it’s so rare I can find resources on my exact appliance. Great video!
Thanks! Your video saved my day.
Easter Sunday, today, with a load of jeans halfway through. The load was severely unbalanced but the washer didn't catch it and kept spinning. Shook the whole house and walked the previously stable washer across the laundry room to the length of its hoses before I could stop it. The entire tub was sitting crooked in the housing and, of course, could not spin for 5 seconds without banging around again. I didn't have a clue how to get inside and started with the top - wrong. I found your video and easily pulled the front off and saw that one of the tub "feet" had jumped over the wobble barrier on one side and stuck there. I lifted it back over, buttoned everything back up and it worked again - at least as well as this washer ever worked. Thanks, again!
came here to say exactly this! you saved me time and money just being able to see what it's SUPPOSED to look like in there! had this exact same issue and saved my week 💕
Excellent information. I was able to replace the tub seal using this video. Hint: If your leaking out the bottom and it's not the pump check the tub seal.
It depends on the model. Top loaders in general are going to be similar but there can be minor differences that make it hard to disassemble.
The washer needs to reset. If you open the lid where you put the clothes in. Open and close it. How many times to reset the machine
To re program the washer. To factory specs
RepairClinic videos for the win. Gets me where I need to be every single time. I should tip them or something.
Thank you for this video!!! Its useful even 10 years later! I was able to fix my washer today!
Very useful. I need to fix a drain pump, but I wasn't even sure how to get into the cabinet. I'm glad I looked before reaching for the crowbar.
ME TO. GREAT VIDEO.
Thank you very much for posting this! I used this to repair my washer in no time flat!
Jim Bailey We're happy to help!
***** Bought my GE used over 4 years and just this week, just stopped in the middle of a wash? what is it?
sheila meadows www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Washing-Machine/46---/Washer-won-t-start
Thank you for the video. Really easy and fast to remove the front panel and troubleshoot common problems.
Woke up to my cat being stuck behind the front panel. Can’t figure out how the hell she got in there. Got her out using this video. Thank you!
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Thanks. While some steps of this video were not 100% accurate to my 2009 GE Profile washing machine, I was able to disassemble and locate the issue. On my 5 yr old washing machine, the tub became unbalanced and was making a banging noise during spin cycles, similar to when its contents are unbalanced. After disassembling the agitator (very simple procedure by following this video and which everyone should do annually to inspect), the main issue was revealed: *the metal base that hides under the visible plastic agitator had RUSTED and broken loose from the tub*. Nearly 1/2 the circumference of the tub's metal base was broken/disconnected, and the *entire* metal base was corroded and rusted.
The metal base, which allows the motor assembly to turn the tub, is prone to water exposure and rust. And, the upper part of thge tub (plastic top section) was audibly full of water but there was no obvious way to empty it out even after pulling out the entire tub.
In summary, after seeing all of the debris sitting at the bottom of the outer tub (inside of which sits the main tub where clothes go), and the horrendous odor of the stale water, it's clearly an engineering disaster.
Not sure if other manufacturers have such poor designs but I would NOT recommend a GE model after experiencing this ... and having it die after 5 short years of life.
I wish I had found this video before dismantling a junked GE washer for parts. It would have made things sooo much easier.
Thanks so much!! even though this video is 11 years old its still very helpful
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
How'd you remove the front panel
@@raulmolina7996 I just followed and used the same tool the man did in the video at 1:12
The procedure to remove the front panel worked for me, although it was somewhat more difficult than shown, thanks.
How'd you do it
Thanks for these great videos!
I had a 14yo T-model (front-serviceable, top-loader) GE Washer with a bad transmission, so I bought a similar model broken washer on Craig's List which is about half that age, and which has a good transmission.
The newer washer has a flimsy cost-reduced top frame (like the one in this video), and the front section was bent down pretty badly, but I hammered it back into shape, and it seems okay now. Also, the tub cover's attachment point for one of the dampening straps was broken off, and the timer knob was bad, so I replaced those broken parts with parts from my old washer.
The repaired washer is now working well, except for one small issue. The problem is that when the washer fills up, the platform that holds the motor, transmission & tub drops down so low that it rubs the bottom panel, except on the "small" load setting.
The formerly-bent top-front frame doesn't seem to be sagging, yet the tub hangs quite a bit lower than the tub did on my old machine.
What's the best way to raise it? I think it needs to be almost 1/2 inch higher than it is now, but even 1/4 inch would help. I don't see any obvious adjustment mechanism, but I've thought of several possible ways to do it:
1. Bend the top-front frame upward further, but that would only raise the front, and it wouldn't raise it very much.
2. Shim the suspension rods at the top.
3. Shim the suspension rods at the bottom, under the spring holders.
4. Bend the bottom panel down, so it is closer to the floor, to add clearance from the tub/motor/transmission platform.
I could also use the transmission from the newer washer to repair the older one, instead of using parts from the older one to repair the newer one, but that seems much harder!
What is the best way to solve this problem?
You might find it is effective to bend your four suspenders:they will readily bend with a box wrench.just slip your wrench over the rod,have at it!
This method gives you excellent control: 1 bend or more; varrying clock position makes micro adjustment a snap!
Is disassembling an Amana top loading washing machine similar to Whirlpool? I just need to remove the drum so I can clean it.
I have a 1984 GE top-loader with a corroded outer drum. I just used a hairdryer to heat, and remove the cap. I'm Clueless, however, on how to remove the cap UNDER the cap. I also have some stuck fasteners to deal with. And I don't think this model has a removable front panel...only the back panel front panel seems to come off.
I have this same washer. When it is loaded and filled the belt pulley rubs on the bottom framework making a loud rubbing noise. My question is, are the tub support rods adjustable so I can lift the tub up slightly to eliminate the rubbing condition?
Ty for this. This really helped me teardown my washer to fix it up.
Excellent video for DIYers!
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Seems easy enough... I want to disassemble mine and clean up all the gunk that is visible on the inside of the drum... yeah, "they" (women) keep washing tennis shoes or dog towels and the machine is randomly not doing the "drain and spin"... then when I use the shop vac to empty the water, the thing will magically work again.. for 2 or 3 weeks.
This will help, thank you.
Oh... that big nut was a pain to remove.... it's way tighter than the video show, specially on a used machine.
Good cripes!! I just came here to replace the spin belt!!! This is like a video for a freaking F15 mechanic!
Clearly you've never seen an F15
As an F-18 mechanic I can tell you that modern fighter jets are far more maintenance friendly than the average home appliance.
I have a leaky washer, do I need to do all of this to check hoses?
Where can I find a tub wrench or spanned wrench? Anything I can use in place of that tool?
So many views but not enough likes. Just saved me $500 by not having to buy a new washing machine. Needed access to the pump. If you stop and watched up 1:15 seconds give the video a like Thank you
How to restart the washer. How many times do you open and close the lid
we bought one used but soon realized it was missing the weight block, any idea where we can get one?
Can you do most of this without disconnecting the water feeds? I need to chase a leak.
Great video!What is the length of the shock dampening straps?
Got it,they are 6"thanks
Have the same washer but I'm having problems with it feeling up could it be?
you guys saved my life one of my wife's delicates was trapped under the agitator. HAHA
I have a GE Profile Washer, model number WPRE6100G1WT. The designated washing machine breaker in my home's breaker box trips as soon as the washer is plugged into the outlet or when a breaker reset is attempted. No LED lights appear on the control panel, even momentarily. My best guess is a short in the washer's motor. Any additional thoughts regarding a diagnosis of the trouble would be appreciated.
HI have the same model washer. I had checked it today and saw that there was a sputter of what looked like grease all over the bottom metal base of the washer. I also checked the agitator and the bolt was partially loose. The washer makes an abnormal loud noise when washing. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I have this exact same washer. It makes a clicking noise when it fills with water? I can't find it
Thanks, man! Just replaced a water valve successfully.
Joseph Lentini Thank you.
THANK YOU! You just made my life easy... your video helped me get it apart and your website helped me diagnose the problem..... and hey your parts are a great value.... Thanks again...
Great thanks Dave!
Excellent video. Your lectures are very helpful . Are there top loading brands that tend to need less repairs? I am looking for a new top load washer and the reviews are all over the place as far as which ones break down more often, and which ones appear to need fewer repairs. Thank you.
Which side is hot water supply connected? I think my water hoses have been swapped.
I have one of these but it acts like the transmition or belt is slipping but it has neither like the old one,?
lots of great disassembly info here - but where are the belts??
Bottom I think 🤔
These people should really make these videos from washers that have been used
Thank you very much for posting this! I was searching around for a guide like this for my GE 131 model. In the end, my problem was very easy to fix. Thanks again!
Great video! Our GE washer is not turning. What do I need to check please?
This could be quite a few different things. We recommend using the repair help section of our website (link in the description). If you enter your model number there you'll have access to model, part and symptom specific repair help that will assist you in diagnosing your problem.
RepairClinic.com Gtww2800doww leaking water from shaft and bottom of pulley
my washer this exact same machine won't agitate or spin, it's not the lid switch or air pressure switch, the hose it isn't clogged, i checked the motor coupling. I guess the only other thing is the motor? I checked all the sensor lights and it didn't say there was something wrong with motor?
Great video. My 5-7 yr old GE machine is making a lot of squeaking during agitation only, Otherwise runs well. Any ideas? New belt? New transmission? Please advise.
With the model you've provided the agitator should pull off of the bolt without removing the cap. If the agitator won't pull off of the bolt when pulled straight up, you can use a rope underneath the bottom of the agitator to assist you.
No problem! We're happy to help.
My 2018 GE washer does not have a camera in the front to remove only in the back
Never once have I ever had a spanner nut come off that easy.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing Adrian!
My GE top loader which is fairly new started leaking the bleach when we put it in the reservoir. Bleach hit the floor...Not Cool. I have no idea besides a loose tube why that would happen. Fear Not! for Repair Clinic has Overcome the Top Loader! :) Thanks for a perfect detailed informational Video RC! If anyone knows what Im up against here, and has had a prior battle with the bleach pirates...Please lemme know. Ill be diggin in later today. Thanks! Rock
This is a very clear and well made video. Thank you for the assistance!
Hi there. Have an old-model GE top-load washing machine. Have thoroughly cleaned out the detergent tray, and the slot that the tray fits into, but am still getting bits of black/brown gunk/muck left behind on the clothes. Any idea where this gunk is lurking? Thanks.
Does this wash machine have a filter?
Thank you. You saved my life !!!
1 11/16" tub nut wrench... how do I get my hands on one of these????
Francis Sims We sell www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Spanner-Wrench/TB123A/1021707?TSLID=1773 which uses that adapter shown in the picture for the GE models. We also have the one shown in the video, but it is expensive. www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Tub-Nut-Wrench/WX5X1325/753880?TLSID=1773
I need capaciter number on capaciter inside above waterpump, electrical tape glue dissolved part number
This video is a huge help! Unfortunately, I got all the way to the removal of the agitator bolt step to discover that my 2007 GE washer has an agitator cap beneath the fabric softener dispenser that seems to be glued on, with no easy way of prying it off. (GE's site claims I need a certified technician to remove it.) If I were to pry this cap off by any means necessary, is there a way to glue it back on? (If I can't remove it to pull the inner tub out, I'm going to have to buy a new machine--this one has gunk buildup that no amount of bleach and vinegar seems capable of eliminating.) In any case, thank you for this great video; at least I know now that I did all I could to salvage it....
Grendel73 We have never seen a washer agitator cap glued on. Perhaps your model requires you to lift the whole agitator off the drive hub and the bolt is under it.
This is what i needed to do on my 2008 model
great video...I have a squeak that starts up when the tub begins to turn or is at it's slowest turn cycle....once it speeds up, there is no noise. I've removed the front panel and sprayed wd40 on the bearings but no change...any ideas before i take the tub out?
It could be a few different things. We recommend using the repair help section of our website with your washer's model number: www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Washing-Machine-Repair-Help?TLSID=1722
I have a washer that is very similar to this one. Lately the washer has been pausing on its own during the wash, forcing me to hit the start button to resume washing. Could there be something wrong with the timer? Also sometimes its pauses on the wash portion of the cycle and I am unable to restart it..the wash light remains blinking....any help would be appreciated
At 6:09 is there not a rod that goes through the cabinet bracket, through the motor bracket under the motor securing the motor to the cabinet?
Yes I'm answering 3 year old post. There is a shipping rod that you remove during the installation. The rod is there to keep the tub still and from moving during transporting. The rod is attached to a yellow pull tab and located on the right side of the exterior machine. Keep that rod incase you'll ever move.
I got this washer but it doesnt spin. I would like to know ... how could I program it?
i can't squeeze the tab to remove the lid switch. is there a trick to it
My unit is missing the model and serial number, this appears to be the same model as mine. Would I be able to get the model number from you? I need to replace the control circuit board.
Never mind I found it in your posts. Thank You
My top loader GE washer is making a banging or clanking noise when it stops and then changes modes. Suggestions ?
Mine does the same thing, but it does it constantly through out the whole wash cycle... Spin is the worst, on spin the tub just flops around and beats the hell out of the inside of the washer. I think it's something to do with the straps at the top of the tub being stretched and worn out possibly
Or possibly a missing or broken weight block
I was able to remove the 1 1/16" nut with the spanner wrench but have been unable to lift out the inner basket. It is still attached in some way to the outer tub. My washer is a 2011 GE profile that looks very similar to the one in this video. Any thoughts?
Dennis Williamson If your model is just like this one than it is probably just stuck. The model we used was brand new.
***** Thanks. I was able to remove the inner basket. I ended up having to remove both outer and inner basket from the frame and then was able to get more leverage and the basket came right out.
Dennis Williamson Thank you for sharing.
GE appliances GTW330ASKWW washer, i can't figure out out to get to the
inside of the washer to replace the drain pump and motor, no front
panel, GE would not tell me how to get inside
How do you clean out the pressure chamber in the outside of the outter tub? It doesn't appear to be removable, but mine has a blockage that nothing I've tried so far will dissolve
Can anyone tell me if newer/digital keypad version will disassemble in the same way or do we need to do something additional due to the electronics?
Anyone know where they hide the service manuals?
I had no problem following the procedures, a great video. BUT! THERE IS a big difference between the machine he is working on and a 10 year lot one when you get down to needing a special tool to remove the 11/16" nut that is now corroded and ceased. That's exactly where I figured I would have a problem.and that's where it ended. I put it All back together and we'll use it til it no longer works. Grinding away.
I have no experience so I may not know proper terminology. I am disassembling and ran into the 1 11/16 nut and don't have the wrench available. I take a look underneath and discover the belt pulley (?) is marred and gouged. It appears as if it is hitting the two brackets on the bottom of the washer that line up with the two brackets on the motor board as seen at the 3:52 mark in this video. What would cause this? I suspect this is the source of the metal on metal screeching noise my washer makes only on the wash/ agitation cycle. Any suggestions?
Are these GE washers made by mabe?
Is it really necessarily to have the tub nut wrench? We're using a pipe wrench that closes tight and we are hitting the wrench with a hammer, yet we can't get seem to get nut to even budge.
It's frustrating - we got all the way to this part and can't get any farther.
Cathy Gi If you cannot get it off with your pipe wrench than we recommend getting one. Here is a cheaper option than the one we use in the video. www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Spanner-Wrench/TB123A/1021707?TLSID=1773
Hit it the other way :)
I have a GTWN4950L0WS that suddenly started making a clunking noise. Here is a video of it. Ideas on what is wrong?
GE GTWN4950L0WS Clunk Noise
Where can I purchase the toolset to fix the washing machine
my ge washer same model is not spinning. drain pump works. pressure hose not pluggled with crap. tried switching the lid switch. reset tried that too. no luck please help. belt is ok too.
" And thanks for joining us today as we demonstrated how to disassemble the T-800 series infiltration unit. Enjoy your purchase and have a great day!"
WoW this is such an under rated comment I LOLD
I have the same washer It recently started acting up when I'm going to rinse cycle it wants to switch back to wash cycle and vice versa sometimes it likes just keep on flickering and I have to switch the dialer to medium load our light load and start all over sometimes I have to unplug it and wait a couple hours for it to work.do you know what my problem may be and how to fix it?
+Nickdog P We would suspect you have a defective timer. Enter your model at www.repairclinic.com?TLSID=1773 to look up the part.
+RepairClinic.com thank you for the information I just had one question is the timer on the control panel so I should buy the whole control panel? Thanks again
THIS IS FANTASTIC!
I told my hubby I’d have the bearing replaced before he got back. This video along with that one made that a fact. 😜🤣
👱🏻♀️🛠😎👍
I was wondering what the thing is called that the Air Pressure Hose is hooked to on the side of the tub.
Ryan Maye The part on the side of the tub that the pressure tube connects to is usually called an air dome.
As a follow-up to my prior feedback, I recently purchased a new *Samsung* washer which included a TEN year warranty due in part to its directly-connected motor (no belt, etc).
Paul D Enjoy the new machine, Paul!
My agitator seems to be just going around and around instead of agitating back and forth. What could be causing this. It is not cleaning my clothes very well plus leaves a lot of lint on clothes. It is an older model GE.
If your model has agitator dogs and a coupler that's where I would look first as they are plastic and do wear out over time...oh and they are pretty inexpensive to purchase! Hope this helps
My fill light keeps blinking. As if the lid switch is open even when the door is close. Replaced the switch, still doing the same thing. Can't get anything to work even during a trouble shooting test. Is it the panel or does this unit have a motor fuse that when breaks freezes everything. It's blinking and beeping as if the flood protection was tripped.
Your lid switch is operated by a magnet. We recommend that you make sure the magnet that actuates the switch is still in the lid. You can open the lid and use a different magnet to actuate the switch. You could use a meter to check it where it connects to the control board. If you have a motor with a control board on it, either the motor or the control could be bad. If you have power to the control board but it won’t go through the cycle and all the other components check out OK, the control board is most likely the cause.
Thank you, check them both and discovered the motor control board was burned towards the back. Bad motor! Thank you for a quick reply. Your videos are extremely helpful.
Fridaire dryer stack model makes a noise when drying . It is not attached to washer and makes loud sound while spinning It is not attached to washer in front What do I do to fix it
+Reagan LaFleur One of the drum supports are likely worn.
RepairClinic.com
any Idea why the front panel won't click back on?
+Karrah Landon A clip or retainer is likely not lining up.
I cannot get the front panel to come off, it seems as if there are white clips on the sides holding it together also.
Hello, I have a problem with a washer model WHDRR418G1WW. I have watched several videos, including yours which is the best, but have been unable to determine how to remove the "dust cap" which sits below the fabric softener assebly on the top of the agitator stack. It seems that the dust cap is integral and I cannot get past it to pull the agitator out. Does anyone have any advice?
The left side of my front panal won't come off. The clip seems to be disconnected but its still stuck ....HELP .
My washer stops after the wash load and doesn't spin out. I have to mess with the controls, unplug the washer and eventually the cycle will move on to the rinse cycle. Any idea why this happens? Could it be the computer?
+D. Ryckman Yes. We would suspect a problem with the control board or timer assembly.
Which part is the apron? The machine makes a pretty loud grinding noise when in the agitate cycle.....but otherwise works fine. Literature I have read online suggest that my model is prone to a "sagging apron" and that there is a kit to fix it.My model is WHRE5550K2WW
+B Kelly We have not heard of that issue. We assume they are calling the cabinet (top and sides?) the apron.
I'm stuck... I can't get one side to unclip with the putty knife. any suggestions? ?
Shelly Whiteside I'm stuck now too....how did you get it apart ?
WH20X10066. What motors are compatible. So many begin with WH20X100 .
Raul Garcia To find motors designed for your machine, enter your washing machine's model number in our website: www.repairclinic.com?TLSID=1773.
What the heck !!! My cabinette is 3 sided and front part does not come off this way !!
Still confused !!
Nice video but removing the tub bolt is not as easy as he is doing it (I am sure his nut was pre-loosened). A lot of banging with a hammer and tub wrench and finally it started to move, lots of banging.. Remember folks......its a left hand thread!
SOOOO!!!! True!!!!!
I'm pretty sure I have this exact washer (mine is model WLRE4500GIWW). Yesterday it started making awful noises when it started spinning. I believe I may need to replace a belt or something else. Does this model have a belt? If so, would I be able to access it easier by turning it over and going through the bottom?
Belt replacement click here: ruclips.net/video/HOLtjRJXr_I/видео.html
what if your washer doesn't have a front panel? ...its all 1 part for the main body
thanks for the step by step it helps me a lot
Tengo unq lavadora general electric hydrowave quiero saber dond esta ubicado el fusible q esta supuesto en el cableqdo
Who does the voiceover ?
My washer I'm not sure what's wrong, once he started washing not even a minute he shut down just about almost 2yrs old since i bought it