Thanks for the videos in this 2 part series. I changed my rear pads and discs last weekend. Went smoothly thanks to the videos. Brake fluid with your bleeder this weekend. Thanks!
The bleeder was fantastic. So easy to use. One person job. I was able to easily complete it with 1 liter of ATE Blue. I bought the universal adapter as well. Planning to use that on the Odyssey this weekend.
@myamail7 - You're right! We did this on the right-front. The sensors are located at the left-front and right-rear. You can remove the head of the sensor from the brake pad by prying it out with a screw driver (it just snaps into place). Follow the wire up to the harness plug connection point and unplug it. Install the new sensor and snap it into the cut-out on the inner brake pad.
Thanks for the good words! As for the oil temp limp mode, we do not have a "quick fix" for this, other than keeping the oil temps down ... as you have planned with a secondary cooler.
Yes, the sensor is clipped to the inner brake pad and runs up to a vehicle harness connector (exact plug configuration and location varies by model). The front sensor is located at the left front brake.
When you lubricated the guide bolts, were you lubricating the threads with the brake grease or the non-threaded area just above the threads? Just want to make sure I'm doing this correctly. Btw, these videos are great. The video is clear and so are the step by step instructions. They make these DIY much easier.
Most BMWs and MINIs use a brake design that is similar to the one shown. This is by far the most used brake design for BMWs and MINIs. If we listed out the specific models that were just like the one shown, the list would include practically every BMW model from the early '80s through the mid to late 2000s and most MINIs. We do note that this car is an E36 M3, at the beginning of the video.
Most state inspections note for a minimum thickness of pad material. For example, the spec for NH is 3/32" of material. In the "real world", you should consider pad replacement at anything under 1/8" of material ... or ... if the pads and rotors are heavily scored. Rotors have a minimum thickness and this is marked on the rotor. Generally, if they're scored or have a noticeable lip at the outer edge they should be replaced. We do not use ceramic pads due to lower friction characteristics.
We have found that older dust boots may not fold nice and cleanly when the piston is pushed back into the bore. You may be able to manipulate the boot so that it does fold up nicely. If the boot simply will not fold back into the original position, it will be fine. As long as the boot is not ruptured, it is doing its job. Once it ruptures, it will no longer be protecting the piston and caliper bore and it should be replaced. A caliper rebuild kit or replacement rebuilt caliper is the cure.
David Phy - RUclips will not allow us to reply to your comment directly (not sure why) - A 2 or 3 ton floor jack will be fine. We tend to like the lightweight aluminum jacks as they are far easier to move around ... but they do cost more. We recommend using the rocker-panel lift points for the jack placement. Note that if you purchase a low-saddle height jack, you can also slide it under from the rear, to lift under the differential housing.
Yes, the seats can indeed be mounted in the car. The problem will be in powering the seats, as you will likely not have the power harnesses to plug into.
Hi BavAuto, i followed the instructions to push back the caliper piston. should i be worried that the rubber boot around the piston doesn't neatly fold back the same way? there seems to be enough pressure behind the boot to make it bulge where it should have folded.
The Bentley manual specifically says to keep the caliper bolts dry. Would you say ignore this? Do you think a graphite lubricant would work while still being dry? Thanks, love your videos!
I'd like to get the number ID for the piston tool to push back the piston please. I'm getting the break kit full car kit for mini s. Thanks, your videos are really helpful.
May I ask you something? If you don't have that special tool to press back in the piston that takes the wear of the inner pad, can you hammer it with caution somehow?
you guys are great. I ordered new rotors and brake pads for my 335i sedan and will change it with my friend. I ordered your bleeder kit too, very helpful. Thank you so much. P.S: I am planning to get an extra oil cooler ( i have one with sport package already) so I don't get limp modes during track days. Any suggestions to stop limp mode?
I actually use a Channellock pipe wrench. It opens up wide enough, to get around the old pad and caliper, to squeeze the piston back in (slowly, of course).
Otto, how do you know when it is time to change brake pads? Same question on rotors. I assume you can replace the pads without changing the rotors. Also what is your opinion on ceramic brake pads to reduce dust versus using your brand of pads with the kleen wheel covers to deflect brake dust? Can you suggest a brand of both ceramic and regular pads?
Ahhh ... the ins and outs of video production ...... We did this job on the right front. The sensor is on the left front (and right rear). The sensor just clips into the inner brake pad ... then just route the wire in the same manner as the original that you removed.
Not necessary. The cap is vented. However, if the reservoir has been topped-off and is already full, compressing the caliper pistons back into the calipers may overflow the reservoir. In this case, it would be wise to remove some fluid from the reservoir.
The front caliper piston compressor tool is available in three version, now. 24400 - the basic tool shown in the video. 29100 - a ratcheting style spreader that works like a caulking gun, fits all single piston and most dual piston calipers. 25750 - a ratcheting style similar to 29100, but will work with any style caliper. For the rear calipers, on the MINI, the piston retractor tool is #V450. All available at BavAuto.com or 800-535-2002
I have Z4 2007 and when I called to BMW to find out the price of the new brake pads they said that if the warning light is ON on the dashboard then I have to purchase sensors along with the brake pads . Is that true ? Do you have to replace brake sensors every time when you replace the brake pads?
Most late model BMW single piston calipers have a design that looks different than what is shown in the videos. However, for the most part, the DIY videos do apply to the late model BMW single piston calipers. We have added an additional posting to address the slight differences in the late model designs. We cannot put a direct link here, so just go to blogDOTbavautoDOTcom and search "BMW brake DIY video". You can view the videos here and we have the link to the post for late model updates.
thanks for the video... i had my abs sensor malfunction on winter... but now it back on.. but i hear clicking sound sometimes when i press brake, searched a lot and its non of common sounds on the web... can you help pls!!!
You do not especially have to do the front and rear at the same time. If the front is in need of service and the rears are fine, just do the front (for example).
i have 328i 2008 sedan,i need new brake pads and rotors front and rear..i want to make sure to fit in my car,can you give a link for my new brake kits...thank you
So I just bought new brake pads but realizing that I have no jack or even jack stands. When I get the jack would you recommend a 2 ton or 3 ton jack or is the factory jack with the spare tire fine and where do you jack up the bmw 528xi 2008 because I can't seem to find something nice and sturdy to jack up for the rear end of the car.
After replacing the pads, and the wheels. Whats the procedure to reset the brakes (2008 535i), not the caution light, but do i need to bleed the brakes or something along those lines?
Hello can you guys make a video on replacement for the back wheel bearings. I'm trying to do them myself but there are other videos which don't show how to use the tools you guys sell so I rather see you guys make a video. It won truly help me and other people.
We have had the wheel bearing replacement on our list. We're not sure just when this will fit into the production schedule though. What model do you have?
Berenise Sanchez - We do have a DIY write-up on our tech blog - check it out: blog.bavauto.com/2814/bmw-rear-wheel-bearing-removal-and-replacement-diy-e30-e36-e46-e82-e88-e90-z3-z4-x3-and-others/
Stripping out the female hex in the rotor hold-down screws is not an uncommon experience. When this happens, we do drill out the screw. The key in doing this (as with any metal drilling) is to use a slow drill speed and sharp bits. Typically you want to start the hole with a bit smaller than your final hole size (which needs to be just a bit larger than the diameter of the bolt shank itself ... the threaded part of the bolt). See BLOG dot BAVAUTO dot COM for more detail. Search - Rotor bolt.
If the sensor has contacted the rotor and turned on the pad wear warning, the sensor must be replaced (front or rear). We have also found that an old sensor often breaks when we try to remove it from the old pads and install in the new pads ... even if it is otherwise serviceable (the warning has not come on). bavauto.com 800-535-2002
You should never push back a piston without the brake hose clamped & bleed valve open as the junk in the calliper can get into the sensitive ABS module.
Um, do NOT hammer the piston!! EVER! Also be VERY careful with the rubber boot that surrounds the piston itself. If you don't have that special tool, you can use an adjustable C-clamp. Clamp the fixed end around the back of the caliper, and the adjustable end at the piston. BUT, make sure you use the old brake pad (without the clips) over the piston to protect it as shown in the video.
Thanks for the videos in this 2 part series. I changed my rear pads and discs last weekend. Went smoothly thanks to the videos. Brake fluid with your bleeder this weekend. Thanks!
The bleeder was fantastic. So easy to use. One person job. I was able to easily complete it with 1 liter of ATE Blue. I bought the universal adapter as well. Planning to use that on the Odyssey this weekend.
@myamail7 -
You're right! We did this on the right-front. The sensors are located at the left-front and right-rear. You can remove the head of the sensor from the brake pad by prying it out with a screw driver (it just snaps into place). Follow the wire up to the harness plug connection point and unplug it. Install the new sensor and snap it into the cut-out on the inner brake pad.
Thanks for the good words!
As for the oil temp limp mode, we do not have a "quick fix" for this, other than keeping the oil temps down ... as you have planned with a secondary cooler.
Excellent instruction video, one of the clearest how to videos I have seen. Well done.
Thanks for the good words!
Yes, the sensor is clipped to the inner brake pad and runs up to a vehicle harness connector (exact plug configuration and location varies by model). The front sensor is located at the left front brake.
Thanks for the feedback, and the good words!
When you lubricated the guide bolts, were you lubricating the threads with the brake grease or the non-threaded area just above the threads? Just want to make sure I'm doing this correctly.
Btw, these videos are great. The video is clear and so are the step by step instructions. They make these DIY much easier.
Most BMWs and MINIs use a brake design that is similar to the one shown. This is by far the most used brake design for BMWs and MINIs. If we listed out the specific models that were just like the one shown, the list would include practically every BMW model from the early '80s through the mid to late 2000s and most MINIs. We do note that this car is an E36 M3, at the beginning of the video.
I saw something in the Bentley that says I need to adjust the parking brake if I replace the rear rotors. These are wonderful videos.
Most state inspections note for a minimum thickness of pad material. For example, the spec for NH is 3/32" of material. In the "real world", you should consider pad replacement at anything under 1/8" of material ... or ... if the pads and rotors are heavily scored.
Rotors have a minimum thickness and this is marked on the rotor. Generally, if they're scored or have a noticeable lip at the outer edge they should be replaced.
We do not use ceramic pads due to lower friction characteristics.
We have found that older dust boots may not fold nice and cleanly when the piston is pushed back into the bore. You may be able to manipulate the boot so that it does fold up nicely. If the boot simply will not fold back into the original position, it will be fine. As long as the boot is not ruptured, it is doing its job. Once it ruptures, it will no longer be protecting the piston and caliper bore and it should be replaced. A caliper rebuild kit or replacement rebuilt caliper is the cure.
Thanks MaxPaws! I was wondering how can I press the piston back in because I don't have that special tool.....
David Phy - RUclips will not allow us to reply to your comment directly (not sure why) - A 2 or 3 ton floor jack will be fine. We tend to like the lightweight aluminum jacks as they are far easier to move around ... but they do cost more. We recommend using the rocker-panel lift points for the jack placement. Note that if you purchase a low-saddle height jack, you can also slide it under from the rear, to lift under the differential housing.
Yes, the seats can indeed be mounted in the car. The problem will be in powering the seats, as you will likely not have the power harnesses to plug into.
Hi BavAuto, i followed the instructions to push back the caliper piston. should i be worried that the rubber boot around the piston doesn't neatly fold back the same way? there seems to be enough pressure behind the boot to make it bulge where it should have folded.
The Bentley manual specifically says to keep the caliper bolts dry. Would you say ignore this? Do you think a graphite lubricant would work while still being dry?
Thanks, love your videos!
I'd like to get the number ID for the piston tool to push back the piston please. I'm getting the break kit full car kit for mini s. Thanks, your videos are really helpful.
May I ask you something? If you don't have that special tool to press back in the piston that takes the wear of the inner pad, can you hammer it with caution somehow?
you guys are great. I ordered new rotors and brake pads for my 335i sedan and will change it with my friend. I ordered your bleeder kit too, very helpful. Thank you so much.
P.S: I am planning to get an extra oil cooler ( i have one with sport package already) so I don't get limp modes during track days. Any suggestions to stop limp mode?
I actually use a Channellock pipe wrench. It opens up wide enough, to get around the old pad and caliper, to squeeze the piston back in (slowly, of course).
Otto, how do you know when it is time to change brake pads?
Same question on rotors. I assume you can replace the pads without changing the rotors. Also what is your opinion on ceramic brake pads to reduce dust versus using your brand of pads with the kleen wheel covers to deflect brake dust?
Can you suggest a brand of both ceramic and regular pads?
Ahhh ... the ins and outs of video production ...... We did this job on the right front. The sensor is on the left front (and right rear). The sensor just clips into the inner brake pad ... then just route the wire in the same manner as the original that you removed.
hey man when we replace break rotor do we need to replace both side (frond and rear) or just front it be find ?
Not necessary. The cap is vented. However, if the reservoir has been topped-off and is already full, compressing the caliper pistons back into the calipers may overflow the reservoir. In this case, it would be wise to remove some fluid from the reservoir.
Is replacing the sensor an easy process? I did not see that a part of the video.
The front caliper piston compressor tool is available in three version, now.
24400 - the basic tool shown in the video.
29100 - a ratcheting style spreader that works like a caulking gun, fits all single piston and most dual piston calipers.
25750 - a ratcheting style similar to 29100, but will work with any style caliper.
For the rear calipers, on the MINI, the piston retractor tool is #V450.
All available at BavAuto.com or 800-535-2002
Thank you for the reply!! much apreciated :D, can i custom take the power harnesses to the seats?
I have Z4 2007 and when I called to BMW to find out the price of the new brake pads they said that if the warning light is ON on the dashboard then I have to purchase sensors along with the brake pads . Is that true ? Do you have to replace brake sensors every time when you replace the brake pads?
My bmw e90 rims have a lots dust, Do you think if i replace break rotors and break pads it may reduce low dust ? thank you
Best wishes.... let us know how the job went.
Most late model BMW single piston calipers have a design that looks different than what is shown in the videos. However, for the most part, the DIY videos do apply to the late model BMW single piston calipers. We have added an additional posting to address the slight differences in the late model designs. We cannot put a direct link here, so just go to blogDOTbavautoDOTcom and search "BMW brake DIY video". You can view the videos here and we have the link to the post for late model updates.
thanks for the video... i had my abs sensor malfunction on winter... but now it back on.. but i hear clicking sound sometimes when i press brake, searched a lot and its non of common sounds on the web... can you help pls!!!
Thanks for your video..very professional and easy understanding presentation..
QUESTION!!! Can i put electric leather seats on my e39? i currently have normal seats with the flaps to push/pull/lift/lower
Large slip-joint (channel-lock) pliers will work fine in most applications.
Thank you for this video! I was able to change my brakes without having ever done ir before.
don't you need to open the brake fluid reservoir cap when pushing the piston back in?
When u compress the brake piston I always thought u take the cap off the master
You do not especially have to do the front and rear at the same time. If the front is in need of service and the rears are fine, just do the front (for example).
Alvaro - We can't reply directly to your comment, since it was entered via Google. Thank you for the good words & your business!
I did see you replace the sensor, did I miss that?
i have 328i 2008 sedan,i need new brake pads and rotors front and rear..i want to make sure to fit in my car,can you give a link for my new brake kits...thank you
can i still use my car even my car dashboard light for brake pad worn light?
Does this apply to E60 2004 as well?
Very nice video! Thanks a million!
Thanks for the good words!
haha
Thanks for the reply guys
Ive done brakes on my nissan's and dodge. But was very skeptical about attempting to try this on my Beamer
So I just bought new brake pads but realizing that I have no jack or even jack stands. When I get the jack would you recommend a 2 ton or 3 ton jack or is the factory jack with the spare tire fine and where do you jack up the bmw 528xi 2008 because I can't seem to find something nice and sturdy to jack up for the rear end of the car.
Excellent video, thank you. Looking forward to visiting your website.
Thank you Frank. We look forward to serving you.
I have 39,000 on a mini cooper S, convertable. Do I need to replace the DISK at this time too? Thankx
After replacing the pads, and the wheels. Whats the procedure to reset the brakes (2008 535i), not the caution light, but do i need to bleed the brakes or something along those lines?
No, bleeding is not required after replacing pads and/or rotors.
What is the manufacturer of this rotor?
Love your videos! Keep up the great work!
You dont have to tighten the guide bolts in really tight?
No, the torque is 25 ft-lbs. We have a good "torque-sensing" arm, so we typically do not use a torque wrench on these fasteners.
i didnt see you put on the brake pad sensor
Where can I purchase the press to put the piston back in place?
Here are some choices, Wendy:
www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=25750
www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=29100
www.bavauto.com/fland.asp?part=24400
Hello can you guys make a video on replacement for the back wheel bearings.
I'm trying to do them myself but there are other videos which don't show how to use the tools you guys sell so I rather see you guys make a video. It won truly help me and other people.
We have had the wheel bearing replacement on our list. We're not sure just when this will fit into the production schedule though. What model do you have?
BavarianAuto I have a 2000 BMW 328I
Berenise Sanchez
- We do have a DIY write-up on our tech blog - check it out:
blog.bavauto.com/2814/bmw-rear-wheel-bearing-removal-and-replacement-diy-e30-e36-e46-e82-e88-e90-z3-z4-x3-and-others/
The short answer is, yes. You will likely need some wiring diagrams to do so.
very informative i do it my self on bmw . thankyou
Stripping out the female hex in the rotor hold-down screws is not an uncommon experience. When this happens, we do drill out the screw. The key in doing this (as with any metal drilling) is to use a slow drill speed and sharp bits. Typically you want to start the hole with a bit smaller than your final hole size (which needs to be just a bit larger than the diameter of the bolt shank itself ... the threaded part of the bolt). See BLOG dot BAVAUTO dot COM for more detail. Search - Rotor bolt.
Hey, you never showed how to replace the Brake Pad Sensor ???? Thats the vid i'm looking for
We wouldn't blame you!
I miss OTTO!
Great video,great products i always order from BavarianAuto.
Thank you for replying.
Thanks. It is a very informative video BTW.
If the sensor has contacted the rotor and turned on the pad wear warning, the sensor must be replaced (front or rear). We have also found that an old sensor often breaks when we try to remove it from the old pads and install in the new pads ... even if it is otherwise serviceable (the warning has not come on).
bavauto.com
800-535-2002
Cool thanks for the info
thanks for the reply
great video. Thanks.
thanks for nice video
You should never push back a piston without the brake hose clamped & bleed valve open as the junk in the calliper can get into the sensitive ABS module.
thank you
Um, do NOT hammer the piston!! EVER! Also be VERY careful with the rubber boot that surrounds the piston itself. If you don't have that special tool, you can use an adjustable C-clamp. Clamp the fixed end around the back of the caliper, and the adjustable end at the piston. BUT, make sure you use the old brake pad (without the clips) over the piston to protect it as shown in the video.
You can, but it is not necessary.
If I had a Hundai I probably wouldn't watch this...