Fridge Too Cold? Not Cold Enough? How to replace Frigidaire damper control assembly part # 242303001
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- Refrigerator too cold or not cooling enough? Step-by-step instructions on how to replace the damper control assembly in a Frigidaire side-by-side refrigerator. When the damper fails it will cause the refrigerator section to get too cold and freeze if the damper gets stuck in the open position, or cause the refrigerator section to warm up and not get cold enough if the damper door gets stuck in the closed position. The damper assembly shown in this video is Part # 242303001 (PD00029645) but the instructions in the video apply to many different part numbers and models of Frigidaire refrigerators.
Purchase Damper Control Assembly shown in video here: partsdr.com/part/242303001-da...
Error code: H1
Tools you need:
- 1/4 inch nut driver
Table of Contents:
0:00 - Intro
0:22 - Common issues
1:01 - Part removal
2:50 - Where to buy
3:10 - Part Installation
5:16 - Outro
Replaces these part numbers:
- 3016452
- AP5788340
- PS8746718
- EAP8746718
- NTBE001ZA1
- 242283901
Refrigerator shown in video: FFHS2611PF7
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Хобби
I want to say thank you for your clear video and descriptions, it made this job easier than expected.
Great! Nice job fixing it yourself. When your damper failed did it cause things to freeze in the fridge section?
This is the most detailed and well pit together instructional video. Thank you. 😊
Thank you! We are glad you found it helpful!
This video is detailed perfectly. I bought the same part off your site much cheaper than anywhere else I searched. You saved me so much money. Thank you so much.
Great!!! Thank you for supporting us!
Thank you so much for this...my new damper is on its way from Amazon...I even feel like I could replace it my self...your video is excellent.
I appreciate the video. Replacing the damper was quick and easy. The repair man tried to charge me $380 to replace the damper.
Nice job doing it yourself and saving a bunch of money!
THANK YOU!!!!! THANK YOU!!!!! Cannot THANK YOU enough!!! This video saved me from having to spend $2,000 to replace my 5 year old fridigaire side by side!! The freezer was working just fine but the fridge was warm and I was getting the H1 error code. Replacing the damper control assembly fixed it!! Your video is so clear and concise, showing exactly what to do!! Much appreciated!!
That is great to hear! Nice job doing the repair yourself and thank you for the tip about the H1 error code!
Gosh----worked like a charm. My sweet SIL just installed the new assembly for me in 20 minutes. This video saved me a 220$ service call. TU very much
Awesome! Nice job fixing it yourselves! Was your refrigerator too cold or not cold enough?
@@PartsDr Not cold enough. In summary- I had used a different youtube last week to troubleshoot it and that one suggested that it might be the damper assembly. So Joe took the panel off and we discovered my damper door was broken/not functioning. So I ordered the assembly and Justin installed it. Currently waiting for 24 hrs to pass and temp to stabilize. But temp has already dropped.
Thanks for this video…I was able to replace my broken damper in about 15 minutes! Thank you. Very detailed and very thorough.
Awesome! Nice job fixing it yourself!
Straight to the point, I am beyond pleased to have found this video in my time of need. Thank you kind sir.
You're welcome!
Your video shots, editing, and step by step explanation was excellent. The best I've seen on RUclips.
Thank you! We put a lot of hard work into these videos!
Thank you for describing this replacement perfectly. I saved a lot of money by repairing this problem myself! Kudos! Harriet V
That is awesome! Nice job!
Thanks for posting this video! We were able to replace our damper fan following your video 😊👍🏼
Nice job! That is great to hear!
Men, you saved my life. Thank you
You're welcome!
simple and well explained, one of the best videos, thanks
Thank you!
What ai great and perfect video. Thank you. The part about the temp sensor tab being horizontal is pretty critical. I had a very hard time getting the back bolt into the back hole and making sure the wires are all tucked in. You make it look easy. Took me a few tries. I took the gear box apart by removing two screws on one side and two on the other. I found there is pair of contacts riding in a cam? I took the contacts out - they just slip out and cleaned them. They were a blue color. And put the motor gear box assy back together and put the unit back in. Not sure if thiat fixed it. Will know in 24 hours. Waited 20 minutes and no H1 yet. If nothing else this verified I can follow your video and put in a new unit if I need. to. You have tremendous talent and a great production method to produce this very useful video. Thank you again!
Great job! Let us know if it fixes your problem and the H1 error code.
@@PartsDr After the damper was replaced freezer side is -10 and fridge side is 35 but I'm getting the H warning on the freezer side now. Do you think this has something to do with the temp sensor out of place?
@@wannaberockstar2 Yes it is possible, it would be worth checking to make sure the sensor is properly installed.
@@PartsDr yes, I took the console out just a while ago and the sensor wasn't installed correctly. It was only reading the fridge side because it wasn't put through the hole to the freezer side. Makes sense that the freezer alarm was going off every couple minutes. Was driving me crazy. I'm hoping that is it. 400 dollars and I had to fix it.
Thank you! Great video!
Thank you! We are glad you found it helpful!
Amazing explanation. 👏
We are glad you found it helpful! 🙂
Thanks Man this was really helpful
Glad we could help!
This was very helpful
That is great to hear!
Thanks just replaced mine, it was making a tapping noise and the fridge temperature was just barely under 55 degrees. Only difference with the install was I had to put the temperature sensor in the assembly first, then insert it while reinstalling the assembly. The tolerances on mine were so tight there was no way I could have put the temperature sensor in the hole first and line up the assembly to it. Instructions were great though, thanks so much!
Nice job fixing it!
Excellent video, helped tremendously!! Fingers crossed to see if it cools down by morning.
Great! Let us know how it is cooling in the morning.
@@PartsDr Unfortunately, it appears the new damper didn't do the trick. I'm going to unplug, let the entire unit thaw out, clean it thoroughly, and replug. Stay tuned.
@@kyleciotti1458 👍
@@PartsDr Update: After replacing the damper, I unplugged the fridge for 8+ hours thawed out. Plugged in and cooled down to 37 degrees. Thank you very much for your easy-to-follow video!
@@kyleciotti1458 That is good! If it stops cooling again after 3-7 days, you might have a failure in the automatic defrost system.
Thanks for the excellent video.
When I turned off the temperature selection for the refrigerator, I could hear the motor operating and it closed the damper door.
It had been wide open causing freezing in the refrigerator.
So, I believe that the motor and damper mechanism are fine.
When I hooked it all back up, after checking everything, it opened up again.
If there a specific check I need to do to find out if the temperature control process is not right?
We haven't seen a test process for this. If the damper is good, you could have a bad temperature sensor, bad control board, or bad wiring causing the issue.
thank u doctor !!!!!
You're welcome!
Unfortunately it’s a 5/16 nutdriver, not 1/4. Also, the screws don’t just back out. Mine would spin forever and not back out. What now?
Note to self: If the damper motor gets stuck in a closed position, obviously the refrigerator will get too hot, but if on the other hand it gets closed with the door in the open position, it will cause the fridge to get too cold and the food will start freezing. Furthermore, the water inside of the water tank reservoir or water reservoir lines, will start to freeze, causing you to think there's an issue with the water dispenser.
Note to self: There is often times a temperature sensor just below the door of the damper control motor that comes out with the unit (the wires of the temperature sensor are connected to the rest of the unit.)
Conjunto de compuerta y amortiguador es lo mismo ??
Great video, thank you! Is it common to replace the main control board in tandem with the Air damper control? I have a appliance repairman saying this is almost always the case since there can be relays in the electrical system that are burnt or not working anymore. Any insight into this?
What he is saying is possible, sometimes a part can fail and the high load from the failed part can cause the control board to also burn out. We commonly see this happen with certain makes and models. On this style refrigerator shown in the video, from our experience we have not seen this to be a common issue. You could always replace the damper first and if it still doesn't work properly then replace the control board second.
hi my fridge won't cool i removed the dumper and it is stuck in the close position and i can't even move it manually is it broken?
Installed A new damper door on a refrigerator but now it's freezing food anything I should go back and look at. 2004 Frigidaire
Will the damper close all the way and no air will flow through from the freezer when the refrigerator side is get to the right set temperature or there is always air come out of it all the time?
Yes the damper door will close all of the way once the refrigerator side has cooled down enough.
Hey! How do you know if your damper assembly door is stuck closed? I think that may be my problem but idk how to tell. Could just be that I removed it with the door closed right?
With the damper installed in the refrigerator and the refrigerator turned on and cooling. If the refrigerator compartment is warmer than 45F it should open the damper door to cool down the refrigerator compartment.
Is there a test that can be run to determine if its the damper motor or if its the thermo or control panel? I'm not getting any Volts AC at the damper door. Mine is stuck closed ....
That’s definitely my issue, how can I found it what’s the specific part number for my damper ? I have the a Frigidaire side by side refrigerator
Search with your refrigerator's model number on our website partsdr.com to locate the correct part. The model number tag is usually located on the top right inside wall of the refrigerator section.
@@PartsDr My model number is FFHS2622MS3 .. I put it on your website but I scroll through the pages but I can’t find the damper control assembly. Can you please help
Does the new damper need to be open or will it open by itself? I installed mine but my refrigerator is still warm.
It will open on its own automatically. Do not try to manually open or close the damper door as you may damage it.
@@PartsDr thank you, great video!
Great job on the video. One thing I would note is where the one long screw goes. I think it is in the back corner.
I need to order my part. Mine stays closed. A person can turn the fridge temp to 9, verify that you can feel cold air flowing through the vent. If you can’t, it is likely stuck shut. This is my case.
If it is stuck open and freezing things, turn temp down to 1. Feel air coming through vent door. Shouldn’t be much air coming through. But if air is still flowing fast, it’s sluck open.
Mine stays closed and clicks for the first ten seconds after plugging in fridge. Fudge is warm, and I am thinking it is trying to open but something mechanical is stuck. So then it gives up. Question: is it actuator only or control board as well? Any guess?
From our experience, most of the time it is a failure of the damper and not the control board. We would start by replacing the damper and going from there.
Actually, I just noticed that when plugging in the fridge for first time, the little opener door starts all the way closed. Then moves all the way open. Then moves all the way closed and stays there. Clicks like it wants to open but doesn’t. But if commanded to open, it probably would as it does on every power cycle constantly. The plot thickens but my jello softens. 🤔
Does that sound more like a control board? Instead of diverter?
@@briankelley5628 You will ultimately have to make that determination. Let us know what you find.
@@briankelley5628 There are contacts in side the gear box that ma be used to calibrate the position of the damper. I took mine apart to see if I could fix it. I cleaned these contacts and put it back together. The gears look fine and there was still lots of good geese in the mechanism. It is now 6/2022 and I have a 2016 fridge.
In my Frigidaire, the freezer is fine but the area where the food is - the light(new bulb) is not coming on and no cooling. Could this be a damper issue as well since the freezer is working fine?
It could be a bad damper. The damper shouldn't relate to any issues with the light bulb though.
@@PartsDr Thank you for responding. I noticed somewhat cold air is coming through the vents on the top-right vent in the fridge. So most likely a cooling problem? I will need to switch the bulbs and see but this is a new bulb I think.
@@topcat5992 We are sorry, but we are not able to troubleshoot this problem through RUclips comments
I have a Frigidaire side by side and the problem is that the on/off cycle is roughly on for an hour and a half then off for 30 minutes plus some food in the lower vegetable drawer freezes. Is there some other component I should be looking at other than the damper. Have not pulled out the damper yet.
It sounds like it could be a failed damper. Let us know what you find.
The damper door was not stuck open. Have the same model fridge with a failed control board in the garage with the same damper part #PD00029556. Did not switch them because the doors were in the same position and had no problem with the damper control on old fridge. 4 screws on top to get the wire harness off?@@PartsDr
Question: 13 months ago the local repair person replaced both the damper and the control board because the damper was "seized" and over-cooling the freezer. After buying good thermometers, I now see that I have to set the freezer temp really low ("1" or "2") to keep the freezer from going below zero. Is it possible that he didn't seat the "damper foam" properly to the side of the refrigerator wall, which causes some cold air to keep getting pumped back to the freezer while the cooling mechanism (and damper) is really trying to get the refrigerator section to the right temperature of about 40F (set at "4" or "5")? I can't understand why I can't get the right temperature in the freezer (e.g. 10F) with a "normal" setting on the front panel (like"4" or so). Thanks.
You could check the seal of the damper foam. At the same time check to make sure the temperature sensor (shown at 4:00) going into the freezer is inserted correctly.
@@PartsDr Much thanks for the quick reply. I'm going to relay this to the service company and see if they will give me a "courtesy visit" to check on how the items were installed. Hopefully they will see what the issue is. BTW, great video. If I had seen this last year, I might have saved a few hundred dollars by getting the part(s) and trying to fix it myself. I would have started with the "damper only" part to see if I really needed the control board as well.
@@danielhurley2894 If you find the cause of the problem, let us know what it was.
@@PartsDr After doing more checking with two new thermometers, I think the 13-month old damper and control board are working (and were installed) OK. In doing some research, the adjustment range isn't meant to be very much (maybe plus/minus 5 deg F or less) with the "factory settings" at 0 degF for the freezer and 40 degF for the refrigerator. I now see some variation in temps when I turn the settings up or down, which means both of them essentially are working. I can set the freezer at 0F and the refrigerator at 38F, and it will stay there. So I've decided that this is fine with me for my 9 year old Frigidaire side-by-side - - without worrying about how much I can adjust the temperatures above or below those "okay" settings.
Can you tell me where the damper control is on a frigidaire model FFTR1814TW0 Thanks
This model refrigerator does not have a damper.
How do you test the damper to see if if it’s operating correctly?
Not that we have seen. If you find a way to do it, let us know.
@@PartsDrThe diagnostic sheet shows you how open and close damper door
5:15 For some reason I’m having a hard time aligning the side part. What if I leave a little gap on the left side showing a bit of the cables. Would that harm the cables in any way?
The problem is that when there is a gap that usually indicates that the damper is not fully seated and sealing against the wall. If the damper isn't sealing against the wall the refrigerator will not be able to regulate the temperature properly.
@@PartsDr You are 100% accurate. Today we woke up to the same “Blinking 4” after replacing the damper. I decided to unscrew it all again and align it perfectly… Now it’s working 100% and not blinking “4”. Thank you for the video, you made the process fairly simple. I purchased the damper from you guys too 👍🏼
@@thewiseguy7100 Glad you got it fixed properly now! Thank you for supporting our business!
@@PartsDr I'm having the same problem. For the life of me, I cannot get the back flush. I've tried: (1) taping down the wires to make sure they're not getting in the way; (2) replacing the back screw first, front screws first, middle screw first; (3) turning the temperature probe so the wire is above the tab and turning it so the wire is underneath it, (4) placing the probe in the hole before inserting the tab into the console and inserting the tab into the console first before putting the probe into the wall; (5) banging it with my fist lol. It's clearly not seated right because the freezer is frosting up. I don't want to call a repair person just to screw the thing in. What am I doing wrong?
@@NoelT2424 It can be tricky! Usually a bad damper won't relate to frost build up in the freezer.
My damper is stuck open freezing everything in the refrigerator side. How do I know if it is the damper that is defective or the Fresh Food Temperature Control Switch?
You can do some trouble shooting but most commonly we see the damper failing and causing the problem.
I’ve put some duct tape over most of the vent and now the fridge side is keeping an ideal temperature without freezing everything.
@@thomaszavesiczky7382 Putting some tape over the vent is a good temporary fix until you can get the part(s) replaced to fix it properly.
Hello, I think I need to replace this part not becuse the temperature is wrong but becuse it is very loud and the noise seems to be coming from this area. Do you have any insight on this? I thought is was a fan but looks like it is just a motor and a door?
There is a motor inside of the damper control assembly that opens and closes the damper door. Sometimes when the damper fails it can start to make some noises like clicking sounds.
Mine opens and closes correctly, it just makes a loud rattle as it goes up and down. It drives me nuts. Do I need to replace it or is there a fix?
The damper itself isn't designed to be serviced, so if anything is wrong with the damper it will need to replaced.
@@PartsDr That was my guess. Thank you for letting me know!
No my issue was it stayed to warm, lost some foods that needed cold
Where can you buy this part? Any website? Thanks!!
Search using your refrigerator's model number on our site partsdr.com to locate the correct part
Donde lo puedo comprar aca en panama son demasiado caro
We have seen some people order from our online store partsdr.com and ship it to a freight forwarder.
I couldn’t find the location of it on my Frigidaire Gallery ?
What is the model number of your refrigerator?
Did anyone have trouble removing the screws? Any suggestions?
Make sure that the 1/4" nut driver that you are using has thin side walls. If they are too wide, it can stop the bit from grabbing onto the screw head.
anyone notice the lever was popped out of the groove causing it to be closed all the time about 2:51
I did....wonder if that was why this one was not working?
What size is the socket ?
1/4" nut driver
Anyone else having trouble with removing the screws from the recessed holes? I have a 1/4 inch nut driver and am not catching it.
There isn't alot of room around the screw heads so you need a thin walled head on the nut driver.
So I was able to get it all taken apart and installed a new damper. I set the temp at 5 but the fridge continues to beep and continues to flash the H1 error on the fridge side. Is that typical until the fridge has had 24 hours to cool back down?
@@philliphadley6185 Yes it can take 24 hours for the refrigerator to cool down and the H1 error code to go away. Is it back to normal now?
@@PartsDr yes it’s working perfectly now. Thank you so much for a great tutorial!
@@philliphadley6185 Great!!
I just got done fixing my father in laws and there was a chunk of Styrofoam jammed in the path of the blem door so it wouldn't shut all the way 😅
Glad you found it and it was a free fix!
or is my thermostat broken?
Hey Ryan.... relax those eyebrows.
You'll get permanent forehead lines.
😉
We think it's too late 🙈
Why can’t people just see the great job he does explaining what to do and how to do it. He doesn’t say, um, uh or any other stumbling words! Great job!
Like n sub ✌🏼🥰
Thank you!