Great info! I put a smaller pulley on my Civic's alternator as a poor man's solution to get a little more power out of it at idle. I don't have an impact gun, so I used a pipe wrench to hold the pulley and a breaker bar to remove and install the nut. Not ideal since the pulley may be slightly damaged, but it does work in a pinch and it's way better than sticking screwdrivers in the fan like I have seen people do.
Have 4 of your alternators, 2 370 amps, 2 150 amps, the guys and gals that work there are awesome! USA made, excellent service , highly recommend their products
What’s a good fit for the 1995 LT1 gen 2 350 in a C4 ???????? alternator is on the drivers side front. I don’t believe there’s enough room to do a duel alt set-up so I may need to just GO BIG but I’m concerned with amps when at low idle and not over charging when at 2000+ or so RPMs. If I remember right 200 AMPs can handle just shy of 3000 watts total system with car running and accessories. I’ll be needing at least enough to handle 2800 + car audio watts with bass wattage at least 2000 watts. I’m not looking to have flickering lights or low voltage to the engine either. Do u make something for my engine and voltage requirements?????????
V belt alternators in my experience at 150 amps the belt will slip. I added an idler belt and seems to be working but Id say 100 amps is all a vee belt will drive.
I have a 320 amp alternator for my 2017 Toyota camry SE but my factory belt is too loose on it. The next size down(k060486) is too tight to fit on the pulley, I was thinking about getting a smaller pulley to put onto it something maybe like a Toyota corolla’s. But I didnt know if that will work. What would you recommend I do?
I'm not showing we make a 320 amp alternator for a 2017 Camry. Do you have an engine size? Anyways, sometimes on those few applications where you need an odd sized belt you can try a different brand of belt(as they sometimes vary) or try loosening an idler pulley or PS pump to get that little bit extra slip over pulley room
got the Mechman 240 a while back and just hadn't installed it because everything runs ok, but put the car in for some other servicing and decided to have em pop it in, brand new never outa box the pully does not spin....... I know these guys make top notch alts but seized new out the box is a tad odd, def outa warranty by now, I can probably fix it but still a pain in the ass.
No alternator leaves here "seized" from us. EVER. Someone / someWHERE has probably dropped it on something and did the "OOPSIE, IT WAS LIKE THAT WHEN I GOT IT!!" cover up. This is especially relatable as you said you "HAD EM POP IT IN". So you PERSONALLY did not ever take the alternator out of the box? Super sketchy...
I have a 2008 Yukon Denali with a factory alt. I can't spend the cash on a Mechman Alt until the holidays are over. Do you sell a smaller than stock pulley so I can keep the rpm's up for my audio system?
I was confused when I saw my alternator with a smaller pully thinking it wasn't the right one ..I'm still concerned but not about the pully anymore...what's got me is I have an extra wire on my stock alt and don't know if it is necessary or if the wire is somehow connected internally and is no longer necessary
I have an older 240 alt I had kept from my bronco. Now I’m planning to use it in another project. The pulley shaft threads are all messed up. Can this be fixed. Last option would be to tack weld the pulley on.
I’m glad you covered belt length at the end. You don’t makes alts for my 97 grand marquis I had to go U.S and I have to go with a .5-1 inch shorter belt to get max grip on the Alt pulley. Now after people here my system then ask me what kind of subs/amp to get I just say unless your just going to put in a 200 watt amp and some 200 watt woofers get a after market alternator and a good car audio battery. Or else your system will sound like crap like most people out there who get big amp and a pair of sub and run them on there stock charging system. 👍🏽
I have this exact alternator but wanna use it on my same truck (98 chevy 5.7 vortec k1500) but i have tall valve covers on new sbc engine. Do they make aftermarket alternator mounts or brackets for a gen 1 sbc engine. The stock vortec mounts wont fit with the tall valve covers
@@jjmccloud Why can't P# 8206250 work? Or, if you don't like the output stud on the REAR, just get a "14019" style P# where the output stud is on the TOP/SIDE. Super easy.
@@mechmanalternators I'm looking for mounting brackets, not the alternator itself lol I already have the alt its just the stock mounting setup won't work with my engines valve covers. So looking for other mounting options to keep using current alternator and valve covers etc
"Realistically it will never go past 6500"...."Pulley your accessories such that it is not going to overspeed things".... so why would a "400amp" alternator "melt" a V belt system if it's pulleyed to the correct ratio? Do they have higher drag/resistance?
It's like taking an electric motor and trying to spin it in the opposite direction. Don't do this as it will try to tear your hand off. The more power the alternator is producing, the more drag it has and also you are dealing with a very heavy armature. Don't be fooled by how an alternator off the car spins freely. Your alternator under load can cause more drag than an ac compressor.
It's not. When you start getting heavy alternator armatures which come with high amp alternators, they have a lot of rotating mass. Once you are getting near a 200 amp alternator and more so for higher amperage, the rotating mass of the armature becomes dangerously heavy. Read this carefully as clearly a many people do NOT know this! Engines do NOT rotate at a constant speed during the entire 360 degrees of rotation, they accelerate and decelerate multiple times, this is the reason why there are springs in manual clutch discs. Once the armature reaches a rotation speed, it wants to stay there when the engine slows rotation within each 360 degree cycle, the sudden deceleration of such a high mass with the higher output alternator, pushes forward on the belt. The rotating mass will not only create vibration from being forced to accelerate and decelerate during each rotation with a solid pulley but it can cause the belt to jump off during upshifts. These overrunning pulleys are a godsend if you accept the fact that they ARE a service item and know why they are there in the first place. Replace it at the recommended interval which will be more frequent in more severe conditions just like belts and hoses. They aren't expensive and they are easy to replace with the alternator still bolted up to the engine. Notice how smooth your belt is when idling and not whipping? That's because of the overrunning pulley. If you just want a car that you will never driver further than a car audio event, then you can get away with it, don't go on any long trips. I frequently drive 1300 miles one way between me and a location I am at often. I could not afford to have all my accessories getting the shit beat out of them for such an oversight. Also if you have a current hungry setup such as a bank of amps, don't overlook going dual alternator if it's feasible. In the olden days, the only high output alternator was Leece Neville and were used on emergency vehicles, they are beasts and still used sometimes. On my 2007 Lincoln Mark LT, I did the big three upgrade and bought a brand new 240 amp alternator for a 2018 V10 as the accessories bolt up the same as the 5.4 liter Triton engine(yes, I hate to admit what engine I have). The computer handles it perfectly and I fused the heavy cable to the battery as part of the big 3, the stock fused link would blow when you add 100 amps over stock. I also am not that crazy about undersized pulleys unless the engine will spend it's life at low rpm. You can also get various size OAPs but not real tiny. If the pulley is smaller than the diameter of your thumb, you might want to think about it a bit.
Owning a Duramax I’m not thrilled with needing a slightly shorter belt I could just imagine being on a trip and breaking the belt. Walk into the nearest parts store and say I need a belt a half inch shorter than stock and the parts guy look at me like I have 2 heads
There must be a way to make the normal belt work on your truck so u won’t need to go through all that. Some way to modify to compensate for a lousy 1/2 inch ( Just got to be )
Just out of curiousity, what real life Automotive application in this known Universe would EVER need a 300 Amp (or Larger) Alternator ? Some kind of Monster sound system maybe ? I can't personally think of Anything that would need to constantly / consistently have to draw / replace that kind of massive current. I have a Pro- Street 69 Mustang with two Electric Fuel Pumps, an Electric Water Pump, and an Electric Cooling Fan - and I would NEVER need anything close to that kind of constant current. My 2018 RAM Diesel has two Alternators, but it has one for each 12 volt battery. They total 300 amps current output (160 + 140), and I have to even question why there either ? I don't think that there is ANY real life scenario where my Truck would need to out out that much constant / consistent current. 😏
Good statement, but everything is relative. Mostly it's the car audio guys in search of power. However we do have many private label applications on government vehicles with massive electrical systems/accessories, overlanding outfitted rigs, off road recovery vehicles with massive winches. Many people would think why would anyone have a pro stock 69 mustang when you can just buy a Tesla Plaid and go quicker, less maintance, more comfortable and can drive it across the country. Fact is, if you can justify your purchases then it makes sense. I really enjoy riding around in rock crawler on 43" tires that cost 1000 dollars and can not be driven on the road. :) I also enjoy riding around in a big block Cuda getting maybe 10mpg. To some people 1 15" subwoofer is insane, to another person with 12 12's that 1 15 is super lame.
@@mechmanalternators Suppose you're right, to each his own. Seems like someone really should be able to figure out how to make sound systems more efficient though, with all of the focus on efficiency today, and the Technology we have these days ! Look what they have done with Light Bulbs ! Ansd even Heaters ! Surely something could be done to ease the Heavy Electrical Load these Sound Systems Impose ! Where's all of the Alleged Electrical Geniuses / Savants when we need them ? 😏
Авто/Мото
Great info! I put a smaller pulley on my Civic's alternator as a poor man's solution to get a little more power out of it at idle. I don't have an impact gun, so I used a pipe wrench to hold the pulley and a breaker bar to remove and install the nut. Not ideal since the pulley may be slightly damaged, but it does work in a pinch and it's way better than sticking screwdrivers in the fan like I have seen people do.
Have 4 of your alternators, 2 370 amps, 2 150 amps, the guys and gals that work there are awesome! USA made, excellent service , highly recommend their products
Nice job with this video. It has really good practical information and advice.
Thank you so much for the information. I almost made a expensive mistake.
Awesome. I like this guy. You and Steve meade are why I choose mechman. (Well, part of it)
What’s a good fit for the 1995 LT1 gen 2 350 in a C4 ???????? alternator is on the drivers side front. I don’t believe there’s enough room to do a duel alt set-up so I may need to just GO BIG but I’m concerned with amps when at low idle and not over charging when at 2000+ or so RPMs. If I remember right 200 AMPs can handle just shy of 3000 watts total system with car running and accessories. I’ll be needing at least enough to handle 2800 + car audio watts with bass wattage at least 2000 watts. I’m not looking to have flickering lights or low voltage to the engine either. Do u make something for my engine and voltage requirements?????????
I have a 2001 GMC sierra 4.8L can I intall a 8206240 alternator on it?..
Will these pulleys fit a ad244 alternator?
V belt alternators in my experience at 150 amps the belt will slip. I added an idler belt and seems to be working but Id say 100 amps is all a vee belt will drive.
Do you make one for 2014 Nissan altima?
My belt broke after I started my engine. Noticed my alternator pulley isn't spinning or turning, is that mean my pulley is seized or dead? Regards
I have a 320 amp alternator for my 2017 Toyota camry SE but my factory belt is too loose on it. The next size down(k060486) is too tight to fit on the pulley, I was thinking about getting a smaller pulley to put onto it something maybe like a Toyota corolla’s. But I didnt know if that will work. What would you recommend I do?
I'm not showing we make a 320 amp alternator for a 2017 Camry. Do you have an engine size? Anyways, sometimes on those few applications where you need an odd sized belt you can try a different brand of belt(as they sometimes vary) or try loosening an idler pulley or PS pump to get that little bit extra slip over pulley room
got the Mechman 240 a while back and just hadn't installed it because everything runs ok, but put the car in for some other servicing and decided to have em pop it in, brand new never outa box the pully does not spin....... I know these guys make top notch alts but seized new out the box is a tad odd, def outa warranty by now, I can probably fix it but still a pain in the ass.
No alternator leaves here "seized" from us. EVER. Someone / someWHERE has probably dropped it on something and did the "OOPSIE, IT WAS LIKE THAT WHEN I GOT IT!!" cover up. This is especially relatable as you said you "HAD EM POP IT IN". So you PERSONALLY did not ever take the alternator out of the box? Super sketchy...
Can I go OAC to solid pulley? Worried about changing the pulley on a brand new mechman.... tolerances, torque, etc.
OAC?
I have a 2008 Yukon Denali with a factory alt. I can't spend the cash on a Mechman Alt until the holidays are over. Do you sell a smaller than stock pulley so I can keep the rpm's up for my audio system?
That's not really how it works. Save the 40 bucks and put toward an alternator.
I was confused when I saw my alternator with a smaller pully thinking it wasn't the right one ..I'm still concerned but not about the pully anymore...what's got me is I have an extra wire on my stock alt and don't know if it is necessary or if the wire is somehow connected internally and is no longer necessary
Lol I've had it over a year ...the stock alt just sht the bed..
I have an older 240 alt I had kept from my bronco. Now I’m planning to use it in another project. The pulley shaft threads are all messed up. Can this be fixed. Last option would be to tack weld the pulley on.
stripped threads = new rotor (or tack weld )😀
@@mechmanalternators gosh. Thanks I will try to fix the threads with a needle file. If not most definitely tack weld.
@@mechmanalternators what size is the shaft bolt. I need to order a new one if I’m able to repair the threads. Thanks
Hey what brand of sockets do you use that are thin enough? thanks
Use non-impact sockets. 12 point is thinnest.
hi
do you use
threadlocker orange
on the Nute!!!!
No, the orange color i'm guessing you're seeing is from a Q.C. checkpoint verifying it has been installed to spec.
@@mechmanalternators thanks 👍
I’m glad you covered belt length at the end. You don’t makes alts for my 97 grand marquis I had to go U.S and I have to go with a .5-1 inch shorter belt to get max grip on the Alt pulley. Now after people here my system then ask me what kind of subs/amp to get I just say unless your just going to put in a 200 watt amp and some 200 watt woofers get a after market alternator and a good car audio battery. Or else your system will sound like crap like most people out there who get big amp and a pair of sub and run them on there stock charging system. 👍🏽
You have any discount codes ?? I really want to buy one
Buy it then, like everyone else 😂
I have this exact alternator but wanna use it on my same truck (98 chevy 5.7 vortec k1500) but i have tall valve covers on new sbc engine. Do they make aftermarket alternator mounts or brackets for a gen 1 sbc engine. The stock vortec mounts wont fit with the tall valve covers
Tons of options on www.mechman.com
@@mechmanalternators no there isn't lmao the options for mounting is for a dual setup
@@jjmccloud Why can't P# 8206250 work? Or, if you don't like the output stud on the REAR, just get a "14019" style P# where the output stud is on the TOP/SIDE. Super easy.
@@mechmanalternators I'm looking for mounting brackets, not the alternator itself lol I already have the alt its just the stock mounting setup won't work with my engines valve covers. So looking for other mounting options to keep using current alternator and valve covers etc
@@jjmccloud OH! I'm sorry...i misunderstood. Plenty of options on Summit Racing for that.
"Realistically it will never go past 6500"...."Pulley your accessories such that it is not going to overspeed things".... so why would a "400amp" alternator "melt" a V belt system if it's pulleyed to the correct ratio? Do they have higher drag/resistance?
It's like taking an electric motor and trying to spin it in the opposite direction. Don't do this as it will try to tear your hand off. The more power the alternator is producing, the more drag it has and also you are dealing with a very heavy armature. Don't be fooled by how an alternator off the car spins freely. Your alternator under load can cause more drag than an ac compressor.
I'm thinking to swap a AOD to a solid Pulley . Most people say it's better, what u guys think?
It's not. When you start getting heavy alternator armatures which come with high amp alternators, they have a lot of rotating mass. Once you are getting near a 200 amp alternator and more so for higher amperage, the rotating mass of the armature becomes dangerously heavy. Read this carefully as clearly a many people do NOT know this! Engines do NOT rotate at a constant speed during the entire 360 degrees of rotation, they accelerate and decelerate multiple times, this is the reason why there are springs in manual clutch discs. Once the armature reaches a rotation speed, it wants to stay there when the engine slows rotation within each 360 degree cycle, the sudden deceleration of such a high mass with the higher output alternator, pushes forward on the belt. The rotating mass will not only create vibration from being forced to accelerate and decelerate during each rotation with a solid pulley but it can cause the belt to jump off during upshifts. These overrunning pulleys are a godsend if you accept the fact that they ARE a service item and know why they are there in the first place. Replace it at the recommended interval which will be more frequent in more severe conditions just like belts and hoses. They aren't expensive and they are easy to replace with the alternator still bolted up to the engine. Notice how smooth your belt is when idling and not whipping? That's because of the overrunning pulley. If you just want a car that you will never driver further than a car audio event, then you can get away with it, don't go on any long trips. I frequently drive 1300 miles one way between me and a location I am at often. I could not afford to have all my accessories getting the shit beat out of them for such an oversight. Also if you have a current hungry setup such as a bank of amps, don't overlook going dual alternator if it's feasible. In the olden days, the only high output alternator was Leece Neville and were used on emergency vehicles, they are beasts and still used sometimes.
On my 2007 Lincoln Mark LT, I did the big three upgrade and bought a brand new 240 amp alternator for a 2018 V10 as the accessories bolt up the same as the 5.4 liter Triton engine(yes, I hate to admit what engine I have). The computer handles it perfectly and I fused the heavy cable to the battery as part of the big 3, the stock fused link would blow when you add 100 amps over stock. I also am not that crazy about undersized pulleys unless the engine will spend it's life at low rpm. You can also get various size OAPs but not real tiny. If the pulley is smaller than the diameter of your thumb, you might want to think about it a bit.
@@Davesworld7 thanks for the info.....
I need better sound
Owning a Duramax I’m not thrilled with needing a slightly shorter belt
I could just imagine being on a trip and breaking the belt. Walk into the nearest parts store and say I need a belt a half inch shorter than stock and the parts guy look at me like I have 2 heads
There must be a way to make the normal belt work on your truck so u won’t need to go through all that. Some way to modify to compensate for a lousy 1/2 inch ( Just got to be )
I'd bet the belt tensioner could account for half an inch of travel
Just waited entire video to see you spin the pulley by hand to see if it has a slight shimmy to it
Just out of curiousity, what real life Automotive application in this known Universe would EVER need a 300 Amp (or Larger) Alternator ? Some kind of Monster sound system maybe ? I can't personally think of Anything that would need to constantly / consistently have to draw / replace that kind of massive current. I have a Pro- Street 69 Mustang with two Electric Fuel Pumps, an Electric Water Pump, and an Electric Cooling Fan - and I would NEVER need anything close to that kind of constant current. My 2018 RAM Diesel has two Alternators, but it has one for each 12 volt battery. They total 300 amps current output (160 + 140), and I have to even question why there either ? I don't think that there is ANY real life scenario where my Truck would need to out out that much constant / consistent current. 😏
Good statement, but everything is relative. Mostly it's the car audio guys in search of power. However we do have many private label applications on government vehicles with massive electrical systems/accessories, overlanding outfitted rigs, off road recovery vehicles with massive winches.
Many people would think why would anyone have a pro stock 69 mustang when you can just buy a Tesla Plaid and go quicker, less maintance, more comfortable and can drive it across the country.
Fact is, if you can justify your purchases then it makes sense. I really enjoy riding around in rock crawler on 43" tires that cost 1000 dollars and can not be driven on the road. :) I also enjoy riding around in a big block Cuda getting maybe 10mpg.
To some people 1 15" subwoofer is insane, to another person with 12 12's that 1 15 is super lame.
Yup, any sound system over 5k watts would need at least a 270amp to keep voltage from dropping 300amp being better
@@mechmanalternators Suppose you're right, to each his own. Seems like someone really should be able to figure out how to make sound systems more efficient though, with all of the focus on efficiency today, and the Technology we have these days ! Look what they have done with Light Bulbs ! Ansd even Heaters ! Surely something could be done to ease the Heavy Electrical Load these Sound Systems Impose ! Where's all of the Alleged Electrical Geniuses / Savants when we need them ?
😏
@@johnbishop7912 Thats where higher volts come in to play. Volts go up, amps go down. ;)