So this is the second time I removed my alternator and I can tell you that this time was so much easier than the first time. Gotta give credit to the community here and their awesome comments. The tip on removing the engine mount top bolts was key, along with a comment about facing the flat spot of alternator towards firewall. I pried the engine forward with a 2x4 and the thing came out easily. I also did everything from the top side by cranking on the tensioner pulley using the double-wrench leverage method. Thanks everyone, thanks A-1 auto. The job was a success! Cheers!
Thanks for the vid. Ford wanted $447 to do this job, and I was able to do it for about $160. It took me 2.5 hours, with a whole hour being dedicated to getting the new alternator back on. For those of you reading this, here's a warning: Make sure the new alternator has the correct clearance to fit over (straddle) its mount! I spent an hour trying to get the new alternator over the mount, which was TIGHT. You don't have a lot of wiggle room back there. Good luck! You can do it...
Thank you for this helpful video. It gave me the basics that saved me a lot of money versus a garage repair. First, having grown up under the tutelage of 2 outstanding shade-tree mechanics in the 70s (my dad and grandfather), the way engineers at the auto companies are designing cars to make life difficult for the DIYer is shameful. A few hacks I developed that may make things easier for others. 1) I had already jacked up the car and removed the wheel having anticipated crawling under the car to release the belt. I discovered that by using a racheting closed-end 15mm wrench I could remove and replace the belt from above. 2) One of the steps involved using an angle wrench to access the rear pin. It also mentioned a lot of 1/8 turns and repositioning the wrench. I guess I lack patience for work like this. After I took off the tire I saw a number of access holes in the sheet metal of the wheel well. I could see the rear pin through one of them. By using my drill to enlarge one of the holes I not only had easier access to the pin for removal, but I had straight line removal with no issues having to push or force the pin to remove it. 3) I was uncomfortable with forcably bending the gas and vapor return lines to increase clearance for removing the alternator. After a bit of study I was able to push the vapor return line outboard and back towards the location of the AC freon lines behind the wheel well and I found I didn't have to bend the fuel line at all. I hope this helps others.
I just completed a 2000 Twin Cam Focus alternator swap. I watched this video first to get an idea then hit the tools. The job is not difficult and went really well. I was able to remove and install the alternator without needing to loosen the motor mount. Alternator placement is key. Pulley down, flat spot between two mounting bolt holes toward firewall. I did not have to force and bend those two steel lines out of the way. Mounting bolts went in easily. Not a tough job. I say go for it!
Hello, thanks for making this video! I just finished the swap on my car and I have one tip that might help. In the video you say to put the easier bolt in first and then angle the back bolt in after. I found this impossible! It was much much easier to put the back bolt in just until it is threaded before even placing the alt in its spot. The bolt slips into its channel and then you just rotate it until it is lined up with the other holes and thread the easy bolt through and then tighten everything up. Hope this makes sense, its saved me a lot of messing around trying to get the bolt in once I realized this. Thanks!
You sir are a life saver. Most of the bolts in my son’s car are rusted and moving the engine was out of the question. I took a break from Fighting it and found this video. It was all about the position of the alternator. Came out first try. THANK YOU!!!
The way you took the alt out... I believe that is THE ONLY way to get it out. I wrestled with that f'er for over an hour before watching you push those metal lines out of the way and mine came right out just like yours. Thank you so much!
Oh my gosh! Thank you so very much for posting this video! It really saved my butt... and blood pressure... and the neighbors had to listen to far less swearing than they might have. The angle you take it out at is just right and except for one very stubborn bolt the whole process was pretty easy.
Thanks for the vid! $aved a ton over taking it to the shop, and only took me 4 hours... most of that was just trying to get the alternator out of it's nest back there. Finally ended up removing the 3 bolts on the lower side of the motor mount, so the mount still supports the engine, then pulling the engine forward by hand. Got it out/in, and had everything back together and cleaned up in less than an hour. Should have just removed the mount bolts in the first place and saved a TON of time fiddling around trying every different way to get it out.
Thanks for the video, it was a tremendous help! All was done exactly as the video with one suggestion that I highly recommend. I removed the motor mount and motor mount bracket, not only did it give much clearer eyesight to the area, it provided about 3/4 of an inch of extra clearance, by moving the engine slightly, that allowed me to remove/install the alternator. Great fit, great video, prompt service. Thanks 1aauto!
I Accessed the tensioner through the top of engine (by using a box ended wrench with a flattened pipe extension). Didn't need to remove the bottom engine cover. But I did need help from this video as to which end of the alternator comes out first and which direction the mounting holes were oriented at. Great video. Thanks.
Helpful video .... I found it much easier to loosen the lower mount and with a pry bar swing the engine forward a little an alternator slips right on out!
Because of your detail video I learned to replace my alternator and belt on my ford focus. So far its driving ok so will see... Thank you very much for this video!
I was able to get the alternator screws off but could not get it out of the compartment, then I seen your video and 5 min later got it out.Thank you for the information very helpful and great video and clear instructions. Thank's again!
Thank you for your awesome videos. They're a big help. For This job I found undoing the passenger side motor mount and taking out from underneath to quick and easy. Thanks again.
I can't tell you how much this helps me. My mechanic friend said I had to come in from the bottom and remove part of the front wheel drive boot in order for the alt to come out the bottom of the engine. I'm super glad this can be taken out from the top.
Two things. There is a plastic clip real low on the firewall that holds those two steel lines that you have to get out of the way. I popped the lines out of the holder and was able to push them out of the way enough without having to disconnect them or bend them very much. Second thing is that the factory engine lift bracket on the back side is two pieces. One of the pieces sticks up and makes it impossible to get the alt out. I had to remove one 8mm bolt that comes in from the bottom. Pop a metal clip off and take out a 12 or 13mm bolt that comes in from the back and the alt popped out easily.
@@1AAuto is it possible to show what's under the hood of a ford focus 2001? Besides the basics. I mean, because there are some parts under there that I can't identify on my own. I haven't been able to find diagrams either.
I jsut wanted to stop by again and tell you that i finally completed the full job! My car is running even better than before thanks to ur video and diagram of the belt!!!! Thanks!!! I want to know if you can do a video on how to install a radio for this car!!!?!?!?!?!?!?!? Thanks again!!!
I' am currently replacing my alternator. When you got the new one on and tightened, was there still some play in the alternator? Mine wiggles back and forth. If I were to put the belt on, i know it would hold it to one side, but is the wiggling normal??
You guys Rock!!! - these vids got me through the alternator swap in my daughters '04 focus. Thanks and I will definable look to you guys for parts in the future.
After experiencing this, you do not have to remove the motor mount bolts. There is a slot in the alternator bracket to allow you to remove the bolt from the alternator when its loosened up. Any questions, just ask
Thanks for the video, it would have been a lot tougher without it and boy was it tough. I used strong zip ties to pull the fuel lines and wires back behind the strut tower power steering bracket. Also took the two nuts off of the engine side of the engine mount and lifted the engine for a little more space. If only the power steering pump bracket was bolted on instead of welded, the job would be easy.
You might want to reposition your annotation. You can't click on it easily because the progress bar and playback buttons are in the way. Thanks for the video!
thank you for posting video it saved me tons of time!! I did exactly how you explained it and worked like a charm!!!! Keep up the good work you guys kick ass!!!!
TIP: I placed a jack under the engine to lift it a little... then I took off the motor mount and then ran a ratcheting strap around the metal beam near the headlight and put it around the "posts" that the engine mount went to...put a nut on the post to keep the ratcheting strap from sliding off...then ratcheted it tight so it pulled the engine forward, away from the firewall... this allowed me to release the belt and remove the alternator from up top... really was not too bad. I also ground off the little "stud" that was in my way that's welded on the strut tower..
Mine is like literally welded on after removing the bolts.. 200k miles with original alternator and it won't come off.. I have used a pry bar and hammer and could only get the front of it to rotate up.. There isn't any kind of locking mechanism by rotation is there?
hello I bought a ford focus last week its a 2004 1.4 timing and altenator belt recently changed. it has 74000 + miles on clock, there is a squel on the altenator belt after for about 1 to 2 seconds after engine is started, then it goes away, the belt did squel once when I was slowing down at a round about.
Heads Up: 1) The nut that secures the the lead wire onto the alternator, has a tab washer crimped on to it. This washer will try to twist the lead wire when removing it if the nut is corroded or galded. The plastic extension may twist as well. I put Copper Anti-Seize on the connection. As in the video, you may have to pry on the Alt. to get it to come free. Careful, as the plastic intake manifold is dangerously close. Not a nice project. Great Video!
i had one of these and i COULD NOT!!!! get it out. It turned out that it was the multiwire connector that was bad and I didn't need to get it out (tried for a couple hours before I saw the connector). I even disconnected the motor mount and rocked the motor forward. I was glad to see this video and put one of the demons i have inside me to sleep.
Compare your new alternator to the old alternator and see if the mounting holes are all in the same place. If they are, check the bracket on the car to see if there's anything protruding inside of the bracket that is preventing the new alternator from going in. Sometimes where the bolt holes are there may be a small metal collar that needs to be pushed back, so you can slide the new alternator into place.
Yes!!! This is why i couldn't get the new one in...i had to use pliers with a rag and squeeze them back in. Compress them back in, kinda like on a caliper piston. I was banging it with a hammer, no budge! I needed to compress them
Idk if you still check this but im having issues getting that back bolt out. It gets almost all the way out and then hits the strut tower. No matter how i turn the alternator or how i push the bolt it still just hits and wont come out. Any ideas?
+thomas nanninga No problem. Glad to hear it helped you out. For anyone needing the alternator, 1A Auto sells the part here: www.1aauto.com/1A/alternator/Ford/Focus/1AEAL00444?RUclips&CTA%20Comment&ATony
I CANNOT get the back/bottom alternator bolt lined up perfectly. I think I need to compress those little metal tabs on the "ears" where each bolt goes through? Because it wont go on the month bracket. The bolt won't go through the hole because it's just slightly off center. The hard part is, the fit is so tight that im yanking on the entire alternator to move it and it's barely budging. I should have cleaned up the metal surface with an emery cloth first huh?? It's such a tight ass fit. Now the entire alternator will barely swivel to line up the bolt holes....
why does the alternator have that 2 inch grey post for the alternator battery connection? I broke the old one trying to get it out so i took the new one off before installing it so that it wouldnt break. But after i got the new alternator bolted in i noticed that i couldnt get it on. So i just bolted the cable straight to the alternator. Will that be ok? Thanks
I really appreciate your response, but I still don't understand what that 2 to 3 inch Grey piece is that the positive battery cable hooks too. Or if it's OK to hook straight to the alternator without that Grey piece like I did? Thanks
Put a block of wood on a floor jack and then use that to support the oil pan why you remove the front motor mount. Now you can jack up or lower the engine some two more easily access the serpentine belt tensioner, and those alternator bolts. Plush now you could Rock the engine forward which AIDS in removing the alternator from its location.
I tried to do bend the lines how you say but they are impossible to move! Anyway around this? Also the alt bolts were rounded and no auto parts (not even Ford) has them, anyone knows where to get these?
ur video was very very useful! but like you sed the angle wasnt that good but still good enough!!! - but anyways i ended up doing my own job yesterday with this video! but my question to u is that i did not see u take off the gas pump area- im still learning all this so i dont know the acutal terms of it- but there are in the way- the ones that u bent to get out ur way- well that - its close by the engine - how to do u move that!? did u disconnected?! if so can u please answer when you get a chance. #femalemechanic #inprocess lol
+Ashley cozayatl Thanks for watching. if any of our viewers needs to change their alternator, we carry the one shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/alternator/Ford/Focus/1AEAL00444?RUclips&CTA+Comment&IFoQxPUw_xc
+ilc1234 We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
+Hector Ortega Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/alternator/Ford/Focus/1AEAL00444?RUclips&CTA+Comment&IFoQxPUw_xc
So far got to back bolt of alternator. Um SIR, Pulling/pushing towards bottom is NOT a explanation. Mine is jammed and I am cutting the heck outta myself to try and find some leeway. No luck so far. Any other ideas that I dont need to pay for to find out
Sounds like you may have gotten the wrong alternator. Is that possible? Did the place that you bought the new one also sell a bracket that's supposed to be sold with the new one? Thanks for checking out our videos! If any of our viewers need to make this repair, we carry the part shown in this video on our website. Here's a link to them. We also offer free shipping on all orders in the US. www.1aauto.com/2000-04-ford-focus-alternator/i/1aeal00444?RUclips&ATony&CTA%20Comment
this should have been mentioned..there are compression tabs on each "ear" that has to slid into place..these tabs are compressible and can be squeezed with visegrips till they compress in and give u an easy fit instead of fight to get it back on the bracket...hope this helps
Agreed! I tried doing it with the mounts in place, but there was no way the alternator was coming out no matter which way I turned it. Took off the lower 3 bolts and pulled the engine forward by hand, then got it out/in much easier.
+oldschoolgreentube Thanks for watching. We carry the replacement part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them, if any of our viewers needs to make this repair www.1aauto.com/1A/alternator/Ford/Focus/1AEAL00444?RUclips&CTA+Comment&IFoQxPUw_xc
No. They are right where the shock tower structure is, so they are coming out against that metal. They arent so bad if you have the belt tension off of the alternator, they are just long.
+Christopher Sisk You should be able to find a bolt that will fit locally. If you bring the remains of the broken bolt to the store, they should be able to get a replacement for that.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
What's the bolt for the wire harness in the beginning?
Plus have easy way to take it from the top
So this is the second time I removed my alternator and I can tell you that this time was so much easier than the first time. Gotta give credit to the community here and their awesome comments. The tip on removing the engine mount top bolts was key, along with a comment about facing the flat spot of alternator towards firewall. I pried the engine forward with a 2x4 and the thing came out easily. I also did everything from the top side by cranking on the tensioner pulley using the double-wrench leverage method. Thanks everyone, thanks A-1 auto. The job was a success! Cheers!
Thanks for the vid. Ford wanted $447 to do this job, and I was able to do it for about $160. It took me 2.5 hours, with a whole hour being dedicated to getting the new alternator back on. For those of you reading this, here's a warning: Make sure the new alternator has the correct clearance to fit over (straddle) its mount! I spent an hour trying to get the new alternator over the mount, which was TIGHT. You don't have a lot of wiggle room back there. Good luck! You can do it...
Thank you for this helpful video. It gave me the basics that saved me a lot of money versus a garage repair. First, having grown up under the tutelage of 2 outstanding shade-tree mechanics in the 70s (my dad and grandfather), the way engineers at the auto companies are designing cars to make life difficult for the DIYer is shameful. A few hacks I developed that may make things easier for others.
1) I had already jacked up the car and removed the wheel having anticipated crawling under the car to release the belt. I discovered that by using a racheting closed-end 15mm wrench I could remove and replace the belt from above.
2) One of the steps involved using an angle wrench to access the rear pin. It also mentioned a lot of 1/8 turns and repositioning the wrench. I guess I lack patience for work like this. After I took off the tire I saw a number of access holes in the sheet metal of the wheel well. I could see the rear pin through one of them. By using my drill to enlarge one of the holes I not only had easier access to the pin for removal, but I had straight line removal with no issues having to push or force the pin to remove it.
3) I was uncomfortable with forcably bending the gas and vapor return lines to increase clearance for removing the alternator. After a bit of study I was able to push the vapor return line outboard and back towards the location of the AC freon lines behind the wheel well and I found I didn't have to bend the fuel line at all.
I hope this helps others.
Thank you.
I like the way you think. Enlarging the wheel well hole for direct access is brilliant. I think I may do that myself.
I just completed a 2000 Twin Cam Focus alternator swap. I watched this video first to get an idea then hit the tools. The job is not difficult and went really well. I was able to remove and install the alternator without needing to loosen the motor mount. Alternator placement is key. Pulley down, flat spot between two mounting bolt holes toward firewall. I did not have to force and bend those two steel lines out of the way. Mounting bolts went in easily. Not a tough job. I say go for it!
It is a super tight fit. Thanks for the precise description of position needed.
Hello, thanks for making this video! I just finished the swap on my car and I have one tip that might help. In the video you say to put the easier bolt in first and then angle the back bolt in after. I found this impossible! It was much much easier to put the back bolt in just until it is threaded before even placing the alt in its spot. The bolt slips into its channel and then you just rotate it until it is lined up with the other holes and thread the easy bolt through and then tighten everything up. Hope this makes sense, its saved me a lot of messing around trying to get the bolt in once I realized this. Thanks!
Thank you for watching!
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
You sir are a life saver. Most of the bolts in my son’s car are rusted and moving the engine was out of the question. I took a break from
Fighting it and found this video. It was all about the position of the alternator. Came out first try. THANK YOU!!!
The way you took the alt out... I believe that is THE ONLY way to get it out. I wrestled with that f'er for over an hour before watching you push those metal lines out of the way and mine came right out just like yours. Thank you so much!
Oh my gosh! Thank you so very much for posting this video! It really saved my butt... and blood pressure... and the neighbors had to listen to far less swearing than they might have.
The angle you take it out at is just right and except for one very stubborn bolt the whole process was pretty easy.
Thanks for the vid! $aved a ton over taking it to the shop, and only took me 4 hours... most of that was just trying to get the alternator out of it's nest back there. Finally ended up removing the 3 bolts on the lower side of the motor mount, so the mount still supports the engine, then pulling the engine forward by hand. Got it out/in, and had everything back together and cleaned up in less than an hour. Should have just removed the mount bolts in the first place and saved a TON of time fiddling around trying every different way to get it out.
+root1657 Thanks for watching and great job tackling that and getting it cleaned up and back together in less than an hour!
@@1AAuto Thanks again, did one yesterday a little quicker than last time.
Thanks for wathcing. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Thanks for watching. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Thanks for the video, it was a tremendous help! All was done exactly as the video with one suggestion that I highly recommend. I removed the motor mount and motor mount bracket, not only did it give much clearer eyesight to the area, it provided about 3/4 of an inch of extra clearance, by moving the engine slightly, that allowed me to remove/install the alternator. Great fit, great video, prompt service. Thanks 1aauto!
I was thinking the same thing. Maybe I should remove the motor mount. Cheers.
this guy is the best explainer of mechaneckin ive ever used on youtube. Thank you very much my Dudes👍🏻🤜🏻🤛🏻
Thank you 1A Auto! Your videos are always very informative.
the belt diagram saved me today. getting it out is a huge pain but got there in the end. thanks.
I Accessed the tensioner through the top of engine (by using a box ended wrench with a flattened pipe extension). Didn't need to remove the bottom engine cover. But I did need help from this video as to which end of the alternator comes out first and which direction the mounting holes were oriented at. Great video. Thanks.
just did one today. what a pain it was to get the alternator out when it was unbolted
Helpful video .... I found it much easier to loosen the lower mount and with a pry bar swing the engine forward a little an alternator slips right on out!
Thank you for watching!
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
That is what I did and it was much easier.
+kjdcomp1 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
Ford designed the focus up to at least 2006 to have the alternator removed from the bottom by pulling the engine forward
Because of your detail video I learned to replace my alternator and belt on my ford focus. So far its driving ok so will see...
Thank you very much for this video!
This is exactly what I needed. Thank you so much for making this video. And great commentary. Very much appreciated.
I was able to get the alternator screws off but could not get it out of the compartment, then I seen your video and 5 min later got it out.Thank you for the information very helpful and great video and clear instructions. Thank's again!
Thank you for watching. Please let us know how the repair comes out!
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Thank you for your awesome videos. They're a big help. For This job I found undoing the passenger side motor mount and taking out from underneath to quick and easy. Thanks again.
+T Hill Thanks for watching 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
I can't tell you how much this helps me. My mechanic friend said I had to come in from the bottom and remove part of the front wheel drive boot in order for the alt to come out the bottom of the engine. I'm super glad this can be taken out from the top.
Excellent! the key is in bending those gas pipes to get the Alt out, THANKS A LOT FOR YOUR VIDEO!!!
Thanks so much for this video. I would have been working on this for hours, but after watching you pull it out, I got it right out.
Two things. There is a plastic clip real low on the firewall that holds those two steel lines that you have to get out of the way. I popped the lines out of the holder and was able to push them out of the way enough without having to disconnect them or bend them very much. Second thing is that the factory engine lift bracket on the back side is two pieces. One of the pieces sticks up and makes it impossible to get the alt out. I had to remove one 8mm bolt that comes in from the bottom. Pop a metal clip off and take out a 12 or 13mm bolt that comes in from the back and the alt popped out easily.
Thank you so much for making videos for even cars this old. I would seriously be lost without you. My dad too. Lol.
+Dagmar Andersen Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
@@1AAuto is it possible to show what's under the hood of a ford focus 2001? Besides the basics. I mean, because there are some parts under there that I can't identify on my own. I haven't been able to find diagrams either.
out of curiousity what year was this Ford Focus?... I have a 2003 . I realize this video applies to 2001 to 2004. Thank you, GREAT VIDEO!!
I jsut wanted to stop by again and tell you that i finally completed the full job! My car is running even better than before thanks to ur video and diagram of the belt!!!! Thanks!!! I want to know if you can do a video on how to install a radio for this car!!!?!?!?!?!?!?!? Thanks again!!!
I' am currently replacing my alternator. When you got the new one on and tightened, was there still some play in the alternator? Mine wiggles back and forth. If I were to put the belt on, i know it would hold it to one side, but is the wiggling normal??
You guys Rock!!! - these vids got me through the alternator swap in my daughters '04 focus. Thanks and I will definable look to you guys for parts in the future.
Thanks for watching. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Very helpful! Thanks Mike from 1A Auto!
After experiencing this, you do not have to remove the motor mount bolts. There is a slot in the alternator bracket to allow you to remove the bolt from the alternator when its loosened up. Any questions, just ask
THANKS very helpful video-greetings from england
Interesting. So you didn't have to loosen up the mount ?
Thanks for the video, it would have been a lot tougher without it and boy was it tough. I used strong zip ties to pull the fuel lines and wires back behind the strut tower power steering bracket. Also took the two nuts off of the engine side of the engine mount and lifted the engine for a little more space. If only the power steering pump bracket was bolted on instead of welded, the job would be easy.
You might want to reposition your annotation. You can't click on it easily because the progress bar and playback buttons are in the way.
Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the video, it was a great help. I ended up doing my engine mount at the same time so I had plenty of space.
Shane O Thanks for watching. Glad we could help 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
thank you for posting video it saved me tons of time!! I did exactly how you explained it and worked like a charm!!!! Keep up the good work you guys kick ass!!!!
Yeah I have to agree, not the best placement. The alternator is tight and hard to get out, but once you know the best way to get it out it is easier.
TIP: I placed a jack under the engine to lift it a little... then I took off the motor mount and then ran a ratcheting strap around the metal beam near the headlight and put it around the "posts" that the engine mount went to...put a nut on the post to keep the ratcheting strap from sliding off...then ratcheted it tight so it pulled the engine forward, away from the firewall... this allowed me to release the belt and remove the alternator from up top... really was not too bad. I also ground off the little "stud" that was in my way that's welded on the strut tower..
Thank you for the feedback! +Travel and Work
Mine is like literally welded on after removing the bolts.. 200k miles with original alternator and it won't come off.. I have used a pry bar and hammer and could only get the front of it to rotate up.. There isn't any kind of locking mechanism by rotation is there?
Can a 2004 focus alternator be used in a 2001 ? Please help pulling one out tomorrow
Omg, too much work!! Thanks Ford!😂
hi I'm wondering if there is a orange cable that you know of the goes from the battery to the alternator ? thank you
great video how to, it was sooo much help to us. Thank you for your service!
Thanks for watching. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Love that Pontiac sign
hello I bought a ford focus last week its a 2004 1.4 timing and altenator belt recently changed. it has 74000 + miles on clock, there is a squel on the altenator belt after for about 1 to 2 seconds after engine is started, then it goes away, the belt did squel once when I was slowing down at a round about.
Heads Up: 1) The nut that secures the the lead wire onto the alternator, has a tab washer crimped on to it. This washer will try to twist the lead wire when removing it if the nut is corroded or galded. The plastic extension may twist as well. I put Copper Anti-Seize on the connection. As in the video, you may have to pry on the Alt. to get it to come free. Careful, as the plastic intake manifold is dangerously close. Not a nice project. Great Video!
i had one of these and i COULD NOT!!!! get it out. It turned out that it was the multiwire connector that was bad and I didn't need to get it out (tried for a couple hours before I saw the connector). I even disconnected the motor mount and rocked the motor forward. I was glad to see this video and put one of the demons i have inside me to sleep.
Compare your new alternator to the old alternator and see if the mounting holes are all in the same place. If they are, check the bracket on the car to see if there's anything protruding inside of the bracket that is preventing the new alternator from going in. Sometimes where the bolt holes are there may be a small metal collar that needs to be pushed back, so you can slide the new alternator into place.
Yes!!! This is why i couldn't get the new one in...i had to use pliers with a rag and squeeze them back in. Compress them back in, kinda like on a caliper piston. I was banging it with a hammer, no budge! I needed to compress them
Grasias por el video, siguiendo los pasos pude cambiar el alternador y fue muy facil en aproximadamente 45 minutos Grasias.
Gracias por comprobar hacia fuera. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
Thanks for making and sharing this video
What is the hose called that you disconnect at 7:40?
The green clip on mine broke and can't find a replacement at any part store in my area.
You may be able to get one from the dealer
Idk if you still check this but im having issues getting that back bolt out. It gets almost all the way out and then hits the strut tower. No matter how i turn the alternator or how i push the bolt it still just hits and wont come out. Any ideas?
you dont need to take the bolt all the way out, just loosen it and it (the bolt).comes out with the Alternator.
Were those Aluminum refrigerant tubes/hoses?
Do you have a video for a 2008 Ford Fusion alternator replacement I can't find a video by you guys could you send me a link
Can you guys make a alternator video for the 2005-2007 ford focus duratec engine
Thanks for the post. I was thinking that it would have to drop out the bottom.
+thomas nanninga No problem. Glad to hear it helped you out. For anyone needing the alternator, 1A Auto sells the part here: www.1aauto.com/1A/alternator/Ford/Focus/1AEAL00444?RUclips&CTA%20Comment&ATony
that was such a pain in the butt butt. Took about 4 hours but thanks for the video and the part 1A Auto
Thank you for the great feedback and thank you for the business! +Anthony Leonard
sick job, way to go, thanks tons!
So helpful! Thank you so much for this video!
I CANNOT get the back/bottom alternator bolt lined up perfectly. I think I need to compress those little metal tabs on the "ears" where each bolt goes through? Because it wont go on the month bracket.
The bolt won't go through the hole because it's just slightly off center. The hard part is, the fit is so tight that im yanking on the entire alternator to move it and it's barely budging. I should have cleaned up the metal surface with an emery cloth first huh?? It's such a tight ass fit. Now the entire alternator will barely swivel to line up the bolt holes....
why does the alternator have that 2 inch grey post for the alternator battery connection? I broke the old one trying to get it out so i took the new one off before installing it so that it wouldnt break. But after i got the new alternator bolted in i noticed that i couldnt get it on. So i just bolted the cable straight to the alternator. Will that be ok? Thanks
You want to make sure that it's hooked up the correct way or it may not charge the battery. Hope this helps you out.
I really appreciate your response, but I still don't understand what that 2 to 3 inch Grey piece is that the positive battery cable hooks too. Or if it's OK to hook straight to the alternator without that Grey piece like I did? Thanks
Put a block of wood on a floor jack and then use that to support the oil pan why you remove the front motor mount. Now you can jack up or lower the engine some two more easily access the serpentine belt tensioner, and those alternator bolts. Plush now you could Rock the engine forward which AIDS in removing the alternator from its location.
I tried to do bend the lines how you say but they are impossible to move! Anyway around this? Also the alt bolts were rounded and no auto parts (not even Ford) has them, anyone knows where to get these?
For something like that id go to the junkyard and snag some man
ur video was very very useful! but like you sed the angle wasnt that good but still good enough!!! - but anyways i ended up doing my own job yesterday with this video! but my question to u is that i did not see u take off the gas pump area- im still learning all this so i dont know the acutal terms of it- but there are in the way- the ones that u bent to get out ur way- well that - its close by the engine - how to do u move that!? did u disconnected?! if so can u please answer when you get a chance. #femalemechanic #inprocess lol
Thank you great video! Very helpful!!
Thanks for watching. Have a great day! 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
You are the best
+Ashley cozayatl Thanks for watching. if any of our viewers needs to change their alternator, we carry the one shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/alternator/Ford/Focus/1AEAL00444?RUclips&CTA+Comment&IFoQxPUw_xc
Is this the same method on a 2005 Focus 2.0?
+ilc1234 We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Job done....many thanks!!!
Thanks for watching 1aauto.com 866-403-3393
It is a lot easier removing the fuel rails out of the way and off to the side and remove the intake manifold also
this helped alot
i don't have the cover in 2:06, is it possible that i can get it? do you sell it?
I feel your pain Brothers,,
keep on posting..
+Hector Ortega Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/1A/alternator/Ford/Focus/1AEAL00444?RUclips&CTA+Comment&IFoQxPUw_xc
I just finished this job today. Worst alternator job I have ever done. It was a pain in the ass to get the alternator out.
So far got to back bolt of alternator. Um SIR, Pulling/pushing towards bottom is NOT a explanation. Mine is jammed and I am cutting the heck outta myself to try and find some leeway. No luck so far. Any other ideas that I dont need to pay for to find out
I knew there was a way to do it from the top. Probably only the brushes are bad. You should always keep a spare set of brushes on hand.
hi I'm replacing alternator but it doesn't fit onto bracket that held original alternator in place....how do I remedy this
Sounds like you may have gotten the wrong alternator. Is that possible? Did the place that you bought the new one also sell a bracket that's supposed to be sold with the new one? Thanks for checking out our videos! If any of our viewers need to make this repair, we carry the part shown in this video on our website. Here's a link to them. We also offer free shipping on all orders in the US. www.1aauto.com/2000-04-ford-focus-alternator/i/1aeal00444?RUclips&ATony&CTA%20Comment
this should have been mentioned..there are compression tabs on each "ear" that has to slid into place..these tabs are compressible and can be squeezed with visegrips till they compress in and give u an easy fit instead of fight to get it back on the bracket...hope this helps
Skip741 x holy shit you saved my life. I was gonna say how is it THIS TIGHT to get that new one on
Buen video. Saludos
+Jose luis Arista Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
How do I know if it needs replaced? my focus will start if jumped and run for a few minutes and stall. I'm lost
+Charles Renner Sounds like you should get your alternator tested. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com?RUclips&CTA%20Comment&ATony 866-403-3393
Charles Renner start the car, while the car is running take the negative terminal off the battery, if it dies it's the alternator. Hope this helps!
Only do what Anthony says if you want to replace your computer.
How change my power wirele for my alternador is burn up
Mine wouldn't even unbolt so I had to cut it.
I found it easier to remove the engine mount and move engine forward
Thank you for watching! There are a couple ways you can go about the repair. Thank you for sharing your experience on this.
1aauto.com 888-844-3393
I know, I don’t like the idea of bending and breaking everything to get the alternator out
That's how the book says to do it
Dont you need to support the engine first before you remove one of the mounts?
Agreed! I tried doing it with the mounts in place, but there was no way the alternator was coming out no matter which way I turned it. Took off the lower 3 bolts and pulled the engine forward by hand, then got it out/in much easier.
Thank you thank you thank you.
+oldschoolgreentube Thanks for watching. We carry the replacement part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them, if any of our viewers needs to make this repair www.1aauto.com/1A/alternator/Ford/Focus/1AEAL00444?RUclips&CTA+Comment&IFoQxPUw_xc
????? What are the torque specs for the alternator????? Nevr heard it
Muito obrigado !
Love Ford think it could be any harder?I just payed $500 for this service
It may be a similar process.
Would taking the tire off be able to get to the alternator bolts easier
No. They are right where the shock tower structure is, so they are coming out against that metal. They arent so bad if you have the belt tension off of the alternator, they are just long.
Estúpidos carros Ford. Excelente video mil gracias.
to be honest this video helped but you DO NOT need to be so rough with them metal lines as i only needed to move them just abit
i am not looking forward to changing this thing. holy heck. Thank you for the video regardless. What was forD THINKING
+IRBabo0n Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Wjat do u do when u break the bottum rear bolt
+Christopher Sisk You should be able to find a bolt that will fit locally. If you bring the remains of the broken bolt to the store, they should be able to get a replacement for that.
you don't need to remove the rear bolt, just slacken it a couple turns and the alternator will come out backwards
OH YEAH TO MAKE IT A BETTER VIDEO IF YOU TOLD US WHAT SIZE SOCKET THAT YOU USED !
The battery disconnected . Why?
Working the alternator back into place can be difficult? I've been trying for an hour. Bs
I have an 03 Focus, and the alternator isn't back there. It's in the front, near the fans...
I have the same issue. Alternator's at the front. got it off but can't remove it from the engine compartment
Ah, the easy one!
That ford is too compact. I have more room on my toyota to work on jeez. Good video btw.