@@OKspeedandcustom I have IOS iPhone, so there isn’t a join button. Another channel I have membership to he put up a join button I believe. But I’ve been trying “without a computer” for 30 mins. No luck. I will keep investigating. Thanks brother. If anyone else can help that would be great.
If you're using the RUclips app, on any video you click on, if you're already subscribed, there should be a Join button there. It's right next to the Notification bell and it's drop down menu, which is just above the thumbs up/down, etc. From there, a Membership page pops up and should have another Join button at the bottom, then 1 more page pops up that says Subscribe, where you choose your payment method, etc. At least that's how it is on mine. ;)
Just a few friendly suggestions, not just as an engine builder, but as a die-hard Pontiac guy... 1. Nothing wrong with a 160⁰ thermostat. If you live in a mostly warm climate, it'll help. Doesn't HAVE to be a 180⁰. All that does is make your heat hotter in the car, more suited for colder climates. Regardless of Stat temp, it will run warmer than that by about 5⁰-10⁰ after it opens, depending on rest of cooling system, since it's job is to control the running temp. 2. Go with a Flowkooler pump. Completely different impeller design for less cavitation. Tighten up the backing plate to about. 060" . 3. The best fan for that setup, believe it or not, is a stock type mechanical fan. Either a clutch or a wide 7 blade with a factory shroud. NOT a flex fan. The fan must be half in, half out of the opening for it tobwork correctly. If you notice, a factory shroud is much deeper, for a reason. 4. A big electric fan is good, BUT, as nice as the setup is that you made, it isn't allowing the fan to pull air through the coils. The closer the fan is to the radiator, the less it cools as it won't be able to pull from past its diameter. When it doesn't get pulled through efficiently, it stacks up in the shallow shroud around the fan and doesn't do its job efficiently. Especially at speeds. 5. Those cars usually require 2 things to help them cool. First, a chin spoiler under the front lower valence. It grabs air and directs it up into the radiator at speeds. Second, there are 2 plastic covers that go between the radiator support and bumper assembly on top. They cover the wide open holes at the top directly in front of the radiator. They block air from escaping and allows more air to be pulled through the radiator. 6. The open area in those radiator supports is tiny. If you have ever seen the small factory radiators, that is why. By putting a huge by large radiator in it, a big area of the radiator doesn't see air due to being blocked by the support. So you are only getting the same amount of air through the support as you would a smaller radiator. 7. Make sure the filler neck on the radiator is the highest point in the system. Otherwise, it will trap air. 8. Always make sure to bleed the system as Pontiacs like to trap air in the back of the block. Run the rpm up a bit after the Stat opens to help. 9. Timing. If the timing is off, whether too retarded or advanced, will cause it to run hot. 10. Temp gauges will ALWAYS read much higher temps when the sender is in the head. That's where all the heat is. Put it in the manifold crossover next to the thermostat. Watching the video, it only looked like it was running at 180⁰, so by saying it was running "hot" has me a little confused, as that isn't too hot. 160⁰-185⁰ is normal whether at idle or cruising. What you don't want is 200⁰-230⁰ at all times. If it was running too hot, you would need to figure out when... idling? Cruising? All the time? They each have a cause and fix. Lastly, Pontiacs have gotten a bad rap for "running too hot" over the years, namely because the cooling design in the deck of the block was changed way back when, and doesn't cool efficiently as they used to. I actually fix that when building them.. Coupled with running small cams and higher compression, cylinder pressure goes way up and causes it to run hot. It doesn't mean it can't be controlled, just takes a bit to get it happy. Long winded I know, just figured I'd throw out a few areas that could help.
4. A big electric fan is good, BUT, as nice as the setup is that you made, it isn't allowing the fan to pull air through the coils. The closer the fan is to the radiator, the less it cools as it won't be able to pull from past its diameter. When it doesn't get pulled through efficiently, it stacks up in the shallow shroud around the fan and doesn't do its job efficiently. Especially at speeds. I THINK THIS IS HIS PROBLEM.
@NoWr2Run Definitely a main one.. Anytime the fans have to be that close to the coils for lack of room behind them, I recommend a large set of dual fans.
@@NoWr2Run The best scenario would be a stock fan and shroud, yes. The single fan on a big radiator with a shallow shroud isn't doing what he thinks it's doing. Very inefficient. Just my take.
On a friend's 455, we changed the radiator, water pump, thermostat, everything to try to keep it cool. Nothing worked. So we bought a test kit to check for exhaust gasses in the coolant. YUP!, we had a slightly leaking head gasket. It won't cool down if hot exhaust gasses are getting pumped into the cooling system. We ordered a gasket kit and did a top end rebuild while we were at it.
That's what I did on my 62 C10 project, Cold Case radiator and a Delta PAG fan set up, they even made the shroud for me. No more overheating. Btw, they make a little light that will mount on a GoPro with media mod, it'll really help with lighting since it's handy always on the camera. What do I know you already passed my channel in subscribers, haha, good for you! 68 Firebird was my first car. Love em!
Pole barn garage just went threw this touch base with him to see if he figured it out ! Hope u get it man don't give up love the show glad u decided to got for the adventure
Hey slick. If you have a full shroud. You'll need rubber flaps that allow natural wind to exit. Without those flaps your making an air dam. And the wind can't pass other the cfm limits of that fan.
There are 2 rubber bushings that are located behind the intermediate plate. If those are missing = overheat. They sell a complete kit for the timing cover.You have to have all of the components installed.
Those full electric fan shrouds are notorious for causing cooling issues. You can see how much of the radiator's core doesn't get airflow because its blocked off by the metal shroud. My 67 Firebird 400/4spd has run the coolest with a factory fan shroud, mechanical clutch fan, and a 160 T-stat. It runs between 170-175 no matter the temp outside, 180-185 sitting in traffic at an idle. I get nervous when it inches toward 190 even though I know that's not "hot"
You might want to pull the trigger and take out the freeze plugs and clean out the block most of the block that I deal with that sat for a Long time plug up with rust and scale.
We aint tired of this CONTENT, SLICK!!! I watched Paul at FAB RATS go through the same thing and he got it done the same way in the same amount of time!!!! You are in good company if you are still having issues!!! Tou have done what you can.....JUST KEEP SWIMMING
Pontiac had all big blocks in those days so a small block radiator will not work. The 326 and up were the same block just different displacement/bore. Nice car
Dalton at Pole Barn Garage is going through this eame exact problem with his Pontiac..... Cant wait to see the truck lowered way to go keep the down and low .. Godspeed
Love what you're doing with the car!! Like a lot of others have suggested I'd flush/clean the block. There's probably a lot of build up in the water jackets especially anywhere there's aluminum. You may want to also double check your carb to make sure it's adjusted properly along with your timing. If they're not adjusted correctly it can cause an overheating problem. I'm sure you'll get it figured out!! Thanks for all of the awesome content!! You are an artist with your metalworking skills!! I especially love the Fireturd content!! It brings back a ton of memories from the early 80's when I bought my 1st vehicle with my own money, a 67 C10 SWB Fleetside that was a P.O.S farmtruck at the age of 15. I kept it for a year then I bought a 69 Camaro SS 350 w/a 4spd. It look like crap, but was fast!! I wish I still had both of them!! Sorry for the long comment!!
Make sure to check your timing and to be sure your not running lean both these things will cause an over heating problem. You also need to run a flush Chemical and flush the block. Pontiacs have very small water passages and don’t take much at all to plug them. Hope some of this info helps get this sorted rebuilt a lot of these 400’s and if you let them sit for as little as 6 months the block will fill with rust just from the water in the air.
God bless u slick with all the accomplishment u have made with that firebird and tell ur mom I think she is a very beautiful person and love her accent Rocky Benedetto from Massachusetts 😊
Raceton/ Slick one time about 40 years ago I built a shroud like that for a fan that I put on my car and didn’t make it 5 miles before it started overheating, removed the shroud and it stopped overheating. Once you are going 20 to 30 mph most cooling airflow comes from the fact that the car is moving forward, if the shroud is blocking the airflow sometimes it causes overheating.
I agree with the theory that your alum shroud is blocking too much area of the radiator. I also like the suggestion to add deflectors in front of the core support to keep air from bypassing the radiator. I like your 30 minute format! Makes a good choice for watching at bedtime. Keep up the good work and congrats on 30k!
Good morning from Cape Cod ⛵ I think the flexi hose is the problem 😂 I'll never get bored watching you work on the Firebird, as far as I'm concerned that car is in pristine condition considering what you find here in New England 😱 anyway I've had several Pontiacs and never had a cooling issue so I don't have an opinion, Dalton from Pole Barn Garage would probably be the man to ask 👍 keep up the great work Slick and Charlie ✌️🇺🇲
Hey slick, I fought problems like this several times when we used to race and I always let the one thing skip my mind... Pull a couple of plugs and see if your running lean if so you could be under jetted or even carb cfm is not enough. This will definitely have you fighting a overheating issue. Let me know what you find out. Good luck!
I had a 72 Maverick Grabber once. It would over heat constantly. I tried everything like you are. You know what the problem was? I pulled the water pump and found the impeller had rusted to almost nothing. This rig always had anti freeze in it too. Replaced pump - surprise! No more overheat.
Make up some shroud pieces for the area in front of the radiator, so that all the air goes through the radiator. You can make some out of cardboard and see if that makes a difference. Also some flaps on the fan side to let air out at higher speeds will help if it runs hot at highway speeds.
Other things you can look at are, too heavy pound cap, running rich/lean,leak around carb, baffle space “which you did” a few other things I’m forgetting. Glad you got a new ice box, looks sweet. Awesome job on the shroud, I know cutting a perfect hole that size in aluminum is hard as heck without a 16” hole saw bit lol. Have a great week fellas!!
Suggestion... I replace all of the fasteners with stainless. The long bolts going into the block tend to rust and break sometimes. I also use plenty of anti seize compound.
I have a 69 Firebird with a Pontiac 428 and when I got it, it had cooling issues. I ended up putting in an aluminum Milodon water pump and it fixed my issue.
Make sure your fan is pulling cool air through the radiator. With the hood closed there should be something to prevent the hot air recirculating over the top of the radiator back into the air inlet side. Consider sealing off the side tanks to the core support with foam weatherstrip. That radiator should be more than enough as long as it is getting cool air.
With the riv-nut inserter tool, the second attempt (not kill mode) is the correct way. Use several small squeezes tightening the tool has you go. Every shop should have one, I did, but some crackhead stole mine along with around $1000 worth of cordless dewalts.
I have the feeling the high flow water pump, along with that big ass radiator should do the trick. That's what I had to do to my 302 swapped Ranger, and haven't had any overheating problems since. Love the Firebird content! 🍻 Edit: oh, and I'd love to see some Banshee videos and that old Yamaha dirt bike too.. Love me some Yamaha's!
On some engines, you can actually put the head gaskets on wrong, and the gasket itself will plug a port where water is supposed to flow through the heads to circulate. There's a "This Side Up" also on head gaskets. I'm not saying that's the problem, but it could be so just keep it in mind. It obviously ran cool from the factory with that stock pump, so maybe the electric fan isn't pulling enough air through the coils like a belt driven fan would. So keep that in mind too.
I've been looking at those cold case radiators and I like the design the one I'm looking at has 2 11/2 inch tube's that the water flows through I have a big block in a 88 g body monte carlo ss and I have a 4 core radiator but my fans don't pull enough cfm. So I'm going to change both radiator and fans I never had this problem with a big block before and I had engines that are pretty rowdy but always used a mechanical fan. I hope this fixes my cooling problems. If not delta pag makes the best unit by far but they are not cheap . But that's what alot of the drag and drive cars use and everyone that has there stuff talks nothing but good about there product. It's all new technology. The guy John that owns the company has got it down to a science. I hope you get it right slick love your channel
Slick i have a 500hp 455 in my 67 i run the same radiator you just installed with a 160 thermostat and it stays cool i run the factory water pump. Good luck you'll get it figured out. Great video
You might need a dual pass radiator. It has a baffel in one side that causes the water to pass across the core twice before it goes out to the engine again
I had a 67 GTO and I still miss it. However, it started overheating when I changed the carburetor and left a vacuum leak at the base. I had gone from Quadrajet to Holley with an adapter. When I put the Quadrajet back on (which I had rebuilt at the Carburetor Shop in Midwest City Oklahoma) she quit overheating.
Just make sure the air is flowing to the radiator from the grill, not around it, the area in front of the radiator support on that car is open right now, the factory usually has rubber flaps to direct the air and people just rip them off and it causes a lot of problems
hi from UK, 22:25, just a thought... your fan shroud is blocking off about a quarter of that rad for airflow when you are driving at moderate/high speed, usually with the fan off. making venetian type vents either side will open up the capacity, these vents, covered by flaps of rubber, which gravity closes at standstill, [when the fan is on], will blow open at speed... just a thought...
Excellent Video (Charlie) Slick 50 :) best rad use those Big 350 To 500 CC V8 is 4 core from pick truck or van one in 3/4 to 1 ton or a big cars like Chevrolet Monte Carlo to Cadillac and help ! 185 to 195 thermostat to and Water pump if need 6 blade and pump proller one circulation get is a fan blades type to flow water faster and cooler too! Found a friend should me that type get one time also use them since and much better less overheating and you check in that to ! I know you found excellent results to like I did too! If have use Electronic fan hook thermostat on power, ground plus gauge wire too so monitor on gauge when kick on and off! Thermostat sensor want use some Telephon tapes on threads 3 rounds so won't leak or give false results on gauge and do Geeen Antifreeze 60 % and 40 % water my late cousin John SR ran in 400 motor all year around! Also hope got Rad Resivor Tank hook up too for overflow tank!
Poshi looking radiator 😍 tanks aren't even plastic 😆 ..Man I'm here wearing a winter jacket in Alberta Canada watching you stand in your shop with the sweat dripping off you..maybe try moist wickening T shirts?
That flexi hose on the bottom of the radiator can be a restriction slightly. I can't say they're bad coz I used them with no trouble on the top hose. Anyhow the point is you do well to put that one aside replacing it with the proper thing. Also there's a test where the water changes color of there's CO2 or CO in the coolant. Another point is the crossovers in the heads and manifold. They must match and the gaskets got to match. I don't recall what the cause of mismatch is but there had been a case of the crossover being blocked in my past by something simple like that. If you want a bit of humour take a look at Puddin's scout project? I had to skip segments as I watched but it was, a little joyful, moment by moment. He's doing better with his plan than some might achieve myself included. But I'm sure it's Puddin's way and I'd not follow or lead in the same way ? It's bound to make you feel more confident about your efforts.😊😊
Pontiacs tended to have overheating issues .... They are happiest the at 205° to 220° . They just tend to run hot.....check into whatever Oldsmobile and CHEVY has for water pumps!!!
Not interchangeable, Pontiac face the other way, one year also has an extra bolt. Chevys are more universal for aftermarket, just not as exciting as a Pontiac. Funny that a piston out of a 350 ci, in motor is not inter changeable between olds,Chevy,Buick,Pontiac! Then again ford Cleveland and Windsor engines are just as different.
Don't know if you have checked timing but if not, I would set it with a light no matter how well it runs. I have seen motors that run relatively well with poor timing that caused overheating. I've also seen lean fuel mixture turn headers cherry red.
ive had a couple 400 pontiacs in my life , i had the same issue on one of them, went to 4 core fat boy radiator , and a proper shroud , stayed really cool after i installed it , them bigger pontiacs run pretty warm .
It may have new head gaskets but that doesn't mean it might not have clogged water jackets. I had a Pontiac 400 that was freshly built i bought it off a guy and the motor set for about 3 years, the water jackets were full of rust.
@@OKspeedandcustomThere's steam port holes in Pontiac head gaskets that are not drilled into the deck of the block. Drill the holes into the deck of the block and it will allow better cooling around the cylinders
@@Theunknowndeviceis it possible on these engines to have the head gaskets on the wrong side or upside down and that be blocking off some water jackets?
MAN SLICK IT SEEMS LIKE I'VE BEEN WAITING FOR LIKE A MONTH FOR NEW CONTENT FROM YOU GUYS WELL I'M GLAD YOU GUYS FINALLY DID LIKE I TOLD YOU FROM THE BEGINNING IT'S THE THERMOSTAT
Charlie, where do I look for membership? Tried under community but it’s only a post. It’s usually a tab “like community” but I don’t see it. Thanks.
From what I understand it's easy to find on the desk top. "Join". Although I am not entirely sure. Thank you Force!
@@OKspeedandcustom I have IOS iPhone, so there isn’t a join button. Another channel I have membership to he put up a join button I believe. But I’ve been trying “without a computer” for 30 mins. No luck. I will keep investigating. Thanks brother. If anyone else can help that would be great.
@@FORCE_PBC It looks like the "join" button is not available for all channels on ios. It is currently not available for ours.
If you're using the RUclips app, on any video you click on, if you're already subscribed, there should be a Join button there. It's right next to the Notification bell and it's drop down menu, which is just above the thumbs up/down, etc. From there, a Membership page pops up and should have another Join button at the bottom, then 1 more page pops up that says Subscribe, where you choose your payment method, etc. At least that's how it is on mine. ;)
@@R3TR0R4V3 nothing there bro. I’m using the YT app and I’m on the iPhone IOS. Oh well. Thanks for the help.
Just a few friendly suggestions, not just as an engine builder, but as a die-hard Pontiac guy...
1. Nothing wrong with a 160⁰ thermostat. If you live in a mostly warm climate, it'll help. Doesn't HAVE to be a 180⁰. All that does is make your heat hotter in the car, more suited for colder climates. Regardless of Stat temp, it will run warmer than that by about 5⁰-10⁰ after it opens, depending on rest of cooling system, since it's job is to control the running temp.
2. Go with a Flowkooler pump. Completely different impeller design for less cavitation. Tighten up the backing plate to about. 060" .
3. The best fan for that setup, believe it or not, is a stock type mechanical fan. Either a clutch or a wide 7 blade with a factory shroud. NOT a flex fan. The fan must be half in, half out of the opening for it tobwork correctly. If you notice, a factory shroud is much deeper, for a reason.
4. A big electric fan is good, BUT, as nice as the setup is that you made, it isn't allowing the fan to pull air through the coils. The closer the fan is to the radiator, the less it cools as it won't be able to pull from past its diameter. When it doesn't get pulled through efficiently, it stacks up in the shallow shroud around the fan and doesn't do its job efficiently. Especially at speeds.
5. Those cars usually require 2 things to help them cool. First, a chin spoiler under the front lower valence. It grabs air and directs it up into the radiator at speeds. Second, there are 2 plastic covers that go between the radiator support and bumper assembly on top. They cover the wide open holes at the top directly in front of the radiator. They block air from escaping and allows more air to be pulled through the radiator.
6. The open area in those radiator supports is tiny. If you have ever seen the small factory radiators, that is why. By putting a huge by large radiator in it, a big area of the radiator doesn't see air due to being blocked by the support. So you are only getting the same amount of air through the support as you would a smaller radiator.
7. Make sure the filler neck on the radiator is the highest point in the system. Otherwise, it will trap air.
8. Always make sure to bleed the system as Pontiacs like to trap air in the back of the block. Run the rpm up a bit after the Stat opens to help.
9. Timing. If the timing is off, whether too retarded or advanced, will cause it to run hot.
10. Temp gauges will ALWAYS read much higher temps when the sender is in the head. That's where all the heat is. Put it in the manifold crossover next to the thermostat.
Watching the video, it only looked like it was running at 180⁰, so by saying it was running "hot" has me a little confused, as that isn't too hot. 160⁰-185⁰ is normal whether at idle or cruising. What you don't want is 200⁰-230⁰ at all times. If it was running too hot, you would need to figure out when... idling? Cruising? All the time? They each have a cause and fix.
Lastly, Pontiacs have gotten a bad rap for "running too hot" over the years, namely because the cooling design in the deck of the block was changed way back when, and doesn't cool efficiently as they used to. I actually fix that when building them.. Coupled with running small cams and higher compression, cylinder pressure goes way up and causes it to run hot. It doesn't mean it can't be controlled, just takes a bit to get it happy.
Long winded I know, just figured I'd throw out a few areas that could help.
4. A big electric fan is good, BUT, as nice as the setup is that you made, it isn't allowing the fan to pull air through the coils. The closer the fan is to the radiator, the less it cools as it won't be able to pull from past its diameter. When it doesn't get pulled through efficiently, it stacks up in the shallow shroud around the fan and doesn't do its job efficiently. Especially at speeds.
I THINK THIS IS HIS PROBLEM.
@NoWr2Run Definitely a main one.. Anytime the fans have to be that close to the coils for lack of room behind them, I recommend a large set of dual fans.
@@JRD_Motorsports Agree 100%, I think he would be better off with a Clutch Fan & a Stock Fan Shroud. His Fan Shroud Sucks.
@@NoWr2Run The best scenario would be a stock fan and shroud, yes. The single fan on a big radiator with a shallow shroud isn't doing what he thinks it's doing. Very inefficient. Just my take.
@@JRD_Motorsports 100%
On a friend's 455, we changed the radiator, water pump, thermostat, everything to try to keep it cool. Nothing worked. So we bought a test kit to check for exhaust gasses in the coolant. YUP!, we had a slightly leaking head gasket. It won't cool down if hot exhaust gasses are getting pumped into the cooling system. We ordered a gasket kit and did a top end rebuild while we were at it.
That's what I did on my 62 C10 project, Cold Case radiator and a Delta PAG fan set up, they even made the shroud for me. No more overheating.
Btw, they make a little light that will mount on a GoPro with media mod, it'll really help with lighting since it's handy always on the camera. What do I know you already passed my channel in subscribers, haha, good for you!
68 Firebird was my first car. Love em!
Pole barn garage just went threw this touch base with him to see if he figured it out ! Hope u get it man don't give up love the show glad u decided to got for the adventure
Hey slick.
If you have a full shroud. You'll need rubber flaps that allow natural wind to exit. Without those flaps your making an air dam. And the wind can't pass other the cfm limits of that fan.
You're doing great Mr.Slick 50 keep after it...!!
There are 2 rubber bushings that are located behind the intermediate plate. If those are missing = overheat. They sell a complete kit for the timing cover.You have to have all of the components installed.
Those full electric fan shrouds are notorious for causing cooling issues. You can see how much of the radiator's core doesn't get airflow because its blocked off by the metal shroud. My 67 Firebird 400/4spd has run the coolest with a factory fan shroud, mechanical clutch fan, and a 160 T-stat. It runs between 170-175 no matter the temp outside, 180-185 sitting in traffic at an idle. I get nervous when it inches toward 190 even though I know that's not "hot"
You guys are starting to find your groove. Really enjoying the content.
You might want to pull the trigger and take out the freeze plugs and clean out the block most of the block that I deal with that sat for a
Long time plug up with rust and scale.
We aint tired of this CONTENT, SLICK!!! I watched Paul at FAB RATS go through the same thing and he got it done the same way in the same amount of time!!!! You are in good company if you are still having issues!!! Tou have done what you can.....JUST KEEP SWIMMING
Pontiac had all big blocks in those days so a small block radiator will not work. The 326 and up were the same block just different displacement/bore. Nice car
Dalton at Pole Barn Garage is going through this eame exact problem with his Pontiac..... Cant wait to see the truck lowered way to go keep the down and low .. Godspeed
Love what you're doing with the car!! Like a lot of others have suggested I'd flush/clean the block. There's probably a lot of build up in the water jackets especially anywhere there's aluminum. You may want to also double check your carb to make sure it's adjusted properly along with your timing. If they're not adjusted correctly it can cause an overheating problem. I'm sure you'll get it figured out!! Thanks for all of the awesome content!! You are an artist with your metalworking skills!! I especially love the Fireturd content!! It brings back a ton of memories from the early 80's when I bought my 1st vehicle with my own money, a 67 C10 SWB Fleetside that was a P.O.S farmtruck at the age of 15. I kept it for a year then I bought a 69 Camaro SS 350 w/a 4spd. It look like crap, but was fast!! I wish I still had both of them!! Sorry for the long comment!!
For me watching the struggle is the juice because when it finally gets figured it’s that much sweeter. Cheers
Make sure to check your timing and to be sure your not running lean both these things will cause an over heating problem. You also need to run a flush Chemical and flush the block. Pontiacs have very small water passages and don’t take much at all to plug them. Hope some of this info helps get this sorted rebuilt a lot of these 400’s and if you let them sit for as little as 6 months the block will fill with rust just from the water in the air.
Exactly what I said. Also if Cylinders been bored and are too thin next to water jackets can cause Hot conditions too
A lowered dually sounds awesome. Fingers crossed the firebird cools down some. Thanks!
Looks good Slick!
Love the banshee!!! I have an 86 250r fourwheeler. Still rip it hard!!!
God bless u slick with all the accomplishment u have made with that firebird and tell ur mom I think she is a very beautiful person and love her accent Rocky Benedetto from Massachusetts 😊
Coming along great, got a lot done, thanks for sharing,all the best to yous and your loved ones
I like the firebird content and I'll watch you work on it until you get it done
On banshee also make sure pilot gets in carb are clean. They are usually main cause of hard starts especially when a bike/quad has been not used much
Run a water hose thru the block and make sure there is no restriction in the block or heads.
keep going slick....you're doing a good job mate.
Keep up the good work Slick! Love watching your videos!
The way y'all feel about hot rods-I feel about 2 wheelers I would love a walk around of the RT360
Cool little bike
That's awesome! We will get it out!
Raceton/ Slick one time about 40 years ago I built a shroud like that for a fan that I put on my car and didn’t make it 5 miles before it started overheating, removed the shroud and it stopped overheating. Once you are going 20 to 30 mph most cooling airflow comes from the fact that the car is moving forward, if the shroud is blocking the airflow sometimes it causes overheating.
Of course, the faster air can flow through those fins, the better itill cool, its just math.
I agree with the theory that your alum shroud is blocking too much area of the radiator. I also like the suggestion to add deflectors in front of the core support to keep air from bypassing the radiator. I like your 30 minute format! Makes a good choice for watching at bedtime. Keep up the good work and congrats on 30k!
Good morning from Cape Cod ⛵ I think the flexi hose is the problem 😂 I'll never get bored watching you work on the Firebird, as far as I'm concerned that car is in pristine condition considering what you find here in New England 😱 anyway I've had several Pontiacs and never had a cooling issue so I don't have an opinion, Dalton from Pole Barn Garage would probably be the man to ask 👍 keep up the great work Slick and Charlie ✌️🇺🇲
Looking forward to the work on the truck.
Hey Chuck! Nice little continuity break there, I thought I was losing my mind for a second 😂😂😂
Hey slick, I fought problems like this several times when we used to race and I always let the one thing skip my mind... Pull a couple of plugs and see if your running lean if so you could be under jetted or even carb cfm is not enough. This will definitely have you fighting a overheating issue. Let me know what you find out. Good luck!
I had a 72 Maverick Grabber once. It would over heat constantly. I tried everything like you are.
You know what the problem was? I pulled the water pump and found the impeller had rusted to almost nothing.
This rig always had anti freeze in it too.
Replaced pump - surprise! No more overheat.
Make up some shroud pieces for the area in front of the radiator, so that all the air goes through the radiator. You can make some out of cardboard and see if that makes a difference. Also some flaps on the fan side to let air out at higher speeds will help if it runs hot at highway speeds.
Good work Slick Fiti you’ll get there brother. Your metal fab-work is second to none. Keep up the great work man. 🤘
Nice little sneak peek of the stout
Man I’m happy for you Slick! I hope the channel keeps growing. No fluff, no drama, just working on cars. Look forward to more fried!
Other things you can look at are, too heavy pound cap, running rich/lean,leak around carb, baffle space “which you did” a few other things I’m forgetting. Glad you got a new ice box, looks sweet. Awesome job on the shroud, I know cutting a perfect hole that size in aluminum is hard as heck without a 16” hole saw bit lol. Have a great week fellas!!
Thanks for always supporting us! 😎 Have a good week yourself!
Slicks been holding out on us. Got those sweet toys in the garage with the fire chicken
Good video slick. 🤣👍✌️💯🔥
Suggestion... I replace all of the fasteners with stainless. The long bolts going into the block tend to rust and break sometimes. I also use plenty of anti seize compound.
Another good video. Keep on grinding, you guys are doing good! 👏 👏
I have a 69 Firebird with a Pontiac 428 and when I got it, it had cooling issues. I ended up putting in an aluminum Milodon water pump and it fixed my issue.
check your radiater hoses to make sure the inner layers aren't collapseing i had that happen one time
Great content guys thanks for sharing 👍.
Make sure your fan is pulling cool air through the radiator. With the hood closed there should be something to prevent the hot air recirculating over the top of the radiator back into the air inlet side. Consider sealing off the side tanks to the core support with foam weatherstrip. That radiator should be more than enough as long as it is getting cool air.
Cool, keep up the good content!!!
Great to see you smoothing out the rough edges and tie up the loose ends. go Firebird
With the riv-nut inserter tool, the second attempt (not kill mode) is the correct way. Use several small squeezes tightening the tool has you go. Every shop should have one, I did, but some crackhead stole mine along with around $1000 worth of cordless dewalts.
I have the feeling the high flow water pump, along with that big ass radiator should do the trick. That's what I had to do to my 302 swapped Ranger, and haven't had any overheating problems since. Love the Firebird content! 🍻
Edit: oh, and I'd love to see some Banshee videos and that old Yamaha dirt bike too.. Love me some Yamaha's!
On some engines, you can actually put the head gaskets on wrong, and the gasket itself will plug a port where water is supposed to flow through the heads to circulate. There's a "This Side Up" also on head gaskets. I'm not saying that's the problem, but it could be so just keep it in mind.
It obviously ran cool from the factory with that stock pump, so maybe the electric fan isn't pulling enough air through the coils like a belt driven fan would. So keep that in mind too.
I've been looking at those cold case radiators and I like the design the one I'm looking at has 2 11/2 inch tube's that the water flows through I have a big block in a 88 g body monte carlo ss and I have a 4 core radiator but my fans don't pull enough cfm. So I'm going to change both radiator and fans I never had this problem with a big block before and I had engines that are pretty rowdy but always used a mechanical fan. I hope this fixes my cooling problems. If not delta pag makes the best unit by far but they are not cheap . But that's what alot of the drag and drive cars use and everyone that has there stuff talks nothing but good about there product. It's all new technology. The guy John that owns the company has got it down to a science. I hope you get it right slick love your channel
Enjoyed the picture show
Loving your new channel, loving the content keep up the good work
@@kimber1958 Thank you!
Thanks for posting Slick
Slick i have a 500hp 455 in my 67 i run the same radiator you just installed with a 160 thermostat and it stays cool i run the factory water pump. Good luck you'll get it figured out. Great video
Thank you!
Don't forget 50's new slogan sitting on your hand, you can't turn a wrench, ask puddin's little girl hotrod, see if she like's it.
Firebird is looking good.
You should watch Pole Barn Garage. He just went through this issue with his Pontiac motor on the way to Duct Tape Drags
Still loving the content keep it up guys can’t wait to see what it takes to get it right god bless you and your family
Always interesting dealing with your "fans".😉
😂😂😂
fingers crossed this sorts it! nice one lads
You might need a dual pass radiator. It has a baffel in one side that causes the water to pass across the core twice before it goes out to the engine again
I had a 67 GTO and I still miss it. However, it started overheating when I changed the carburetor and left a vacuum leak at the base. I had gone from Quadrajet to Holley with an adapter. When I put the Quadrajet back on (which I had rebuilt at the Carburetor Shop in Midwest City Oklahoma) she quit overheating.
What? How is that one explained? I, myself had two LeMans, 66 & 67! Had 326's to 455's. I miss them both today, practically gave them away.
Shroud needs vent flaps so air can pass throgh at highway speeds. Best bet will be factory clutch fan and shroud with a 180 t stat.
We need to get this boi a mic 🎙️
Just make sure the air is flowing to the radiator from the grill, not around it, the area in front of the radiator support on that car is open right now, the factory usually has rubber flaps to direct the air and people just rip them off and it causes a lot of problems
hi from UK, 22:25, just a thought...
your fan shroud is blocking off about a quarter of that rad for airflow when you are driving at moderate/high speed, usually with the fan off. making venetian type vents either side will open up the capacity, these vents, covered by flaps of rubber, which gravity closes at standstill, [when the fan is on], will blow open at speed... just a thought...
You should teach puddin about the no big mess mentality. Buckets and floor pans are your shop floor friend
thank you for the video, look forward to the wiring video or anything from you brother. cheers!
Appreciate you Daniel!
Congrats on the 30k subs!
If the high flow pump don't work, it could be clogged cooling ports? Just a guess!
Slick, Flush that block with a pressure washer while your at it, it may be clogged up just from sittin and that'll do it for ya
Excellent Video (Charlie) Slick 50 :) best rad use those Big 350 To 500 CC V8 is 4 core from pick truck or van one in 3/4 to 1 ton or a big cars like Chevrolet Monte Carlo to Cadillac and help ! 185 to 195 thermostat to and Water pump if need 6 blade and pump proller one circulation get is a fan blades type to flow water faster and cooler too! Found a friend should me that type get one time also use them since and much better less overheating and you check in that to ! I know you found excellent results to like I did too! If have use Electronic fan hook thermostat on power, ground plus gauge wire too so monitor on gauge when kick on and off! Thermostat sensor want use some Telephon tapes on threads 3 rounds so won't leak or give false results on gauge and do Geeen Antifreeze 60 % and 40 % water my late cousin John SR ran in 400 motor all year around! Also hope got Rad Resivor Tank hook up too for overflow tank!
I'm working on a 67 Camaro and it's fighting me tooth and nail too
Be sure to grease the ever living snot out of the bolt that goes through the pump into the block, future slick will thank you 🤙
Poshi looking radiator 😍 tanks aren't even plastic 😆 ..Man I'm here wearing a winter jacket in Alberta Canada watching you stand in your shop with the sweat dripping off you..maybe try moist wickening T shirts?
That flexi hose on the bottom of the radiator can be a restriction slightly. I can't say they're bad coz I used them with no trouble on the top hose. Anyhow the point is you do well to put that one aside replacing it with the proper thing. Also there's a test where the water changes color of there's CO2 or CO in the coolant. Another point is the crossovers in the heads and manifold. They must match and the gaskets got to match. I don't recall what the cause of mismatch is but there had been a case of the crossover being blocked in my past by something simple like that. If you want a bit of humour take a look at Puddin's scout project? I had to skip segments as I watched but it was, a little joyful, moment by moment. He's doing better with his plan than some might achieve myself included. But I'm sure it's Puddin's way and I'd not follow or lead in the same way ? It's bound to make you feel more confident about your efforts.😊😊
Try a smaller water pump pulley maybe? Smaller diameter will spin the pump faster.
You should try twin spall brushless fans
Pontiacs tended to have overheating issues .... They are happiest the at 205° to 220° . They just tend to run hot.....check into whatever Oldsmobile and CHEVY has for water pumps!!!
Not interchangeable, Pontiac face the other way, one year also has an extra bolt. Chevys are more universal for aftermarket, just not as exciting as a Pontiac. Funny that a piston out of a 350 ci, in motor is not inter changeable between olds,Chevy,Buick,Pontiac! Then again ford Cleveland and Windsor engines are just as different.
Put the original belt driven clutch fan and shroud on it, that electric fan and shroud does let enough air flow
Make sure they put correct head gaskets. Coild be partially blocking water passage
Good Video Slick
Is that a flexi hose ! Mortske would be proud.
@@johnnymack8442 😂😂😂 it's Automatic Mortske 😂
Nice work slick fity
Thank you.
Don't know if you have checked timing but if not, I would set it with a light no matter how well it runs. I have seen motors that run relatively well with poor timing that caused overheating. I've also seen lean fuel mixture turn headers cherry red.
ive had a couple 400 pontiacs in my life , i had the same issue on one of them, went to 4 core fat boy radiator , and a proper shroud , stayed really cool after i installed it , them bigger pontiacs run pretty warm .
It may have new head gaskets but that doesn't mean it might not have clogged water jackets. I had a Pontiac 400 that was freshly built i bought it off a guy and the motor set for about 3 years, the water jackets were full of rust.
Heads may come off! Haha. Let's see what this water pump does. Sounds like you have been down this road before. Thanks Gregory.
@@OKspeedandcustomThere's steam port holes in Pontiac head gaskets that are not drilled into the deck of the block. Drill the holes into the deck of the block and it will allow better cooling around the cylinders
I've seen many a small block with clogged water jackets
@@Theunknowndeviceis it possible on these engines to have the head gaskets on the wrong side or upside down and that be blocking off some water jackets?
Hell ya do a video on the banshee
Hey pudding good to see you on the channel
Hey slick try drilling a eighth inch hole in the thermostat, that will let the coolant flow when filling no air pockets
Getting closer!! I can’t wait to be able to just hop in and drive!!❤❤
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
Good vid dude. You’ll get her.
MAN SLICK IT SEEMS LIKE I'VE BEEN WAITING FOR LIKE A MONTH FOR NEW CONTENT FROM YOU GUYS WELL I'M GLAD YOU GUYS FINALLY DID LIKE I TOLD YOU FROM THE BEGINNING IT'S THE THERMOSTAT
@@marvinrandolph3731 haha thank you! We haven't missed a week yet since we started and don't plan on missing any!
Pole barn garage has the same issue with all of it 400cu engines
Over heating do to rust in the passage ways
Butler performance. Group from my hometown. They are the Pontiac go to people.
I bought a new 87’ Banshee. Was like $1900 out the door. Had a Blast for years.
That top hose is higher near the alternator than your top outlet on the radiator. Might be an air pocket trapped there. 🇦🇺🇦🇺