WOW Eric, YOU DID SO SO MUCH WORK, SPENT SO MUCH TIME & MONEY ON DAD'S TRUCK I DID NOT EXPECT ALL THIS WHEN YOU FIRST TALKED ABOUT IT ORIGINALLY. YOUR DAD IS GOING TO BE SO SURPRISED & PROUD OF YOU FOR WHAT YOU DID. THE WIRING ALONE IS UNBELIEVABLE HOW YOU DID THIS. VERY VERY GOOD JOB & DONE CORRECTLY IN SUCH A SHORT AMOUNT OF TIME, I HOPE YOU HAVE NO PROBLEMS OR BUGS WHEN IT'S DONE. WHAT A TRUCK THIS WILL BE SIR ERIC, IT WILL BE AWESOME AS YOU ARE, THANKS FOR THE UPDATE.
I searched EVERY VIDEO on this build to find this exhaust cut out bc I wasn't a fan of the one in the Fairmont bc you had to hold it. I would recommend adding "exhaust cut out dad's truck" as a search tag. Thanks Eric
WOW! An encyclopedia full of STUFF! LOVE watching you solve fitment problems, Eric! And Cameraman Brian was right on point with this shoot - his follow shots were right there.
Am I the only one who's "OCD" is screaming at them over the two different switches and the fact that Eric chose not to have the light work on the round switch?....lol!! I feel I should send Eric some matching switches with wireing diagrams so the lights work in the switches! Lol!! Also for what it's worth office supply stores sell little vinyl stickers that have "on/off" ,"start/stop" etc etc that will give that last final touch to make it look professional! Love the videos!! Please keep em coming!!
Yeah, I don’t understand why be doesn’t just switch the hot side. It takes practically the same amount of wire and there are plenty of sources to chose from in the Convenience Center distribution block. I also hate seeing a toggle switch on the dash. I personally would have bought some OEM switches like the fog lamp switch and relabeled them. I tend to go overboard on things though...
Something you both seem to be leaving out is the time component to this build. I had to build the entire truck in about 5 months. Also, what I did works great. It's a lot easier to swap out a switch than it is to wiring in a completely new relay. Thanks for your input.
@@ericthecarguy oh I totally get that Eric. I hope you didnt take my comment as a "put down"! I'm clearly the goofball here!...lol! Your an awesome mechanic and have more knowledge of cars than I'll ever have lol!! I thoroughly enjoy your videos and hope you keep em coming! :)
I didn’t understand switching the ground side of the relays from the beginning. I only switch the ground side if I’m worried about current draw. The point of the relays is to limit the current to the switch. Soooooooo my OCD kicked in during the relay wiring video. 😂 I would have also added a relay to the exhaust cutout to use the same switch as mentioned. I do understand the time crunch though.
Rather than measuring those threads like you did (flipping calipers 90deg) and thinking you had to avoid the jaws getting into the minor diameter of them, just use the thicker section of caliper jaws, the jaws are perfectly parallel all the way up so don’t be afraid to use the entire area of jaws. People sometimes think that the precision area of the jaws are the tapered area, not true, the entire jaw surfaces are same accuracy. The reason they are tapered at the tips is only to fit in slotted areas of parts, in fact many times on calipers that are well used, the most inaccurate area of measurement is the tips (that area gets worn over time). Anyway, long time Toolmaker/machinist here, like your videos!!
Love your videos, Eric! Always entertaining, informative, and helpful. It sucks when things don't work as expected but good to see your installs aren't scripted and work out exactly as you expect. This, to me, is much more realistic to what you'll find in doing your own projects. Expect the unexpected! Thanks again, man!
For a common ground I like to do a 3/4 to 1" screw with a nut and star washer, dab of Loctite pointed slightly up. Switches can be had from the dealer to match what you already have installed to give it a more contiguous look. Hiding in plain sight.
Thanks Eric. I'm liking the detail level on this one. It must be difficult going through hours of footage and picking the most interesting parts. You nailed it!
11:52 Eric open up the switch and flip the leads on the LED light, solved. Or you can add relays to flip polarity on the switch. I am actually local and would help you get that light to come on for free if you need help let me know bud. This is to some of the viewers. I am confident Eric knows this already I just had to explain in greater detail for those confused with illuminated switches. On a 3-Pole Illuminated Switch the diagram is usually on the side of the switch. *One of the poles will be your "Power In" [Generally Constant 12v or Accessory Ignition] this needs to be fused with a fuse rating that matches the amperage capability as the switch. *One of the poles will be your load or in other words whatever your turning on with the switch. Most loads require more amperage than these tiny switches can handle, if that is the case then run this wire to the coil side of a relay and wire your load to the relay. The relay must have its own fuse just like the switch. Typical SPDT Automotive relays are 30Amp & 40Amp. If the loads demand for current is greater than the relay can handle then you can put a higher current handling "Solenoid" instead, these can generally handle your load in an automobile but also have a current handling capacity and must be fused. *One of the poles will be your ground for the illumination when the switch is turned to the on position. The LED light acts just like a diode and only allows current to flow in one direction to light up, it is biased and can only be connected properly one way. Where as a Bulb with a filament in it will allow current to flow in either direction to light up, it has no polarity and can not be wired backwards, it is unbiased. Enjoy
At a later point, you could add another relay under the dash, make your fan switch hot side, and use it to power the relay which can switch the ground side of the fan relays. That would allow you to maintain your existing ground side control, and would allow your illuminated switch to work.
Add a button that says; "Do Not Push!". Connect it to a passenger side seat shaker and a horn hidden in the passenger seat headrest as well as a hidden/electronically triggered water mister aiming at the passenger seat. :D
Bitey washer is called external tooth lockwasher- you also had an internal tooth lockwasher later in the video. If you wanted to keep the lighted fan switch, you could have ran a jumper from the 12V on your exhaust cutout to the LED power terminal on the fan switch. The LED in that switch draws almost no current.
Thanks for the washer info! As for the switch, I'm not worried about it. Time was a factor with the build. Changing out the switch was the easiest, quickest solution. Thanks for your comment.
All the electrical noise in this video reminded me of the door/light warming buzzer. It's so loud. So I wrapped it in electrical tape. This lowered the volume to a much less annoying level. My truck is a 1999 Suburban. Until tecently, sold it!
The buzzer in my ‘95 Tahoe was just a little black module that plugged in under the dash. I yanked it out and it has been laying under the driver’s seat for 15yrs now.
J. Hunto's Garage I’ve got a 99 suburban too and I’ve been wondering how to make the buzzing a little quieter. I’d get rid of it altogether but it comes in handy because I leave my keys in the ignition a lot. Thanks
Eric, put some Dynamat on the inside of the BM shifter enclosure and it won’t sound so plastic cheap when you shift it. This is a nice truck. Thanks for sharing the build.
Watching you do this reminds me of when you made a statement on the Fairmont about how much you have learned new skills, and it shows as you wiring up your dad's truck! Here are your words: ruclips.net/video/lPBB6lDwD8w/видео.html
Hi Eric I love the style of the timelapse and recap of this video. Could be awesome to have a recap vid at the end of each of these big project series for those who didn't have the time for each individual long vid but still want to know what steps you took. Love your videos Eric you inspire me to work on my own car. Be safe.
You might also want to spray down the seat belts with a power washer. Those often get very dirty and gross overtime and I can see those ones have some staining on them. Kyle Lindsey aka. SaabKyle04 who you know has a video on that ironically enough on a 94 Jimmy
It's a right bugger when new parts come faulty, you question the work you have already done and sometimes undo it to check your false failures. Well that's what i tend to do, always blame my work first. I like the open harness, you can add wires so flipping easy :-D.
To widen the fan shroud I’d cut it down the middle and extend it there with some rubber flaps to cover the gap. One of my pet hates is needles led lights in everything , you’re driving down the road at night and there’s this light hitting you in the corner of your eye and with LEDs today it’s not a dim light it’s a bloody laser beam!
I have the factory vent cover for the center of the dash if you want it, the one you have is either for an aftermarket radio or for the factory equalizer
@@wobblysauce That's only if there is some metal around for the helping hand... and even still.. it ends up in your eyes. The Gods enjoy their simple harassment's.
You can still have that switch lighted unfortunately it involves another relay to convert the positive switch to trigger a negative switch trigger possibly (possibly some diode’s) I’ve made the same mistake with aux backup lighting which was wired to be trigged by both the reverse lights and the cab light switch, one was negative trigger the other was positive trigger Personally I usually do a separate fuse panel with it’s own relays for aftermarket accessories with their own ignition switched power and constant hot power to tap into usually I have a big circuit breaker for all that coming straight from the battery it keeps the folks that like to point fingers at aftermarket accessories causing problems Happy Definitely love the series so far the final product came out awesome BTW 🍺😎👍🏽
For me it was just easier to change the switch. Time was a factor with this build. I built my own fuse boxes in the Fairmont like you describe. I didn't do that with this truck because I wasn't adding all that much. Thanks for your comment.
I'll let my brother (Brian) know that you like the throttle cable he made. He and I bust our asses off for guys like you. Now I need to see you put some of what I do on this truck.
Hey Eric, it's been a while since I've been in one of those dashes. I think the a/c controller has to be put in first, then the radio goes in. Great videos and looking forward to seeing this project completed.
That tesa cloth tape isn't there to hold the cables together, its for cable protection. When you are done, you can leave the tiewraps on the harness but please wrap the wires with tape.
I would have used one of those plastic rocker switches instead of that metal toggle switch so they would match and blend in to the dash. Just wire the switch to a relay to make up all the multiple poles of the toggle switch.
Hey Eric.. suggestion: get yourself an aftermarket radio and run a relay or two off the switched hot (the red wire). And of course run some hots to pin 30 of the relays. Additionally silver is the hots and brass is negative you say? Weird... because in house electricity the brass is the hot and the silver is the grounded
Brass is suppose to be hot in this application too. Not sure why he wanted to switch ground. That’s why his LED on the switch doesn’t work. It’s polarized and since he wired it backwards, light no work.
Hey Eric! You could make your fan switch LED work with a relay... Wire the switch up as it should be and use it to switch a relay to pull your other fan relays to ground.
Yes they are. The fans are really loud though. There's very little chance of leaving them on accidentally. Still, a lighted switch would be cooler. Pun intended.
Where do u find the back raping that goes around the wireing to protect it . Wire loom I think it's called that covers the wireing and makes it look neat and protected . My factory stuff has broken away on my wireing on my 87 chevy celebrity eurosport 2.8 and trying to find some but has to be very high temp so it doesn't melt of course. I looked in your description but didn't see it
Use another relay on the cooling fan and positive side switch it, so when activated the relay ground side switches the relay you have fitted already that way you can use the warning light in the switch.
Just add in another relay. Run +12v to switch and let the relay do the ground switching. You could do the same for the exhaust cut off and get matching switches. The last part is just my OCD acting up.
Great info, thanks Eric. I am looking into installing a 5.3L into my 47 Chevy pick up. Can you recommend a place to purchase the adapter engine mounts?
Hello viewers welcome to the EricTheCarGuy channel and this is the hastag hondaelementsomething *installs 350sbc in Element* Well viewers this is coming out better than I expected.
Eric when you find oil in the radiator on a 1997 V 6 Chevy Camaro with a 4 Speed Manual Transmission and your compression is fine could it still be the Head Gaskets or something else ? Note: No Water in the Crank Case and She Runs Great no issue in Performance It's a V 6 though so there's that. Tried your Facebook however, it deleted my question. Any help in the mystery of finding oil under your radiator cap will be much appreciated !! Also no channel on here has any info on Manual Transmission & Motor oil in radiator water issues ... Could be another Video my Friend lol. Cobra : )~
LOL Like your blower motor in the Acura Vigor? Gee that is not near as much work. Also you can double relay or use a MOSFET circuit to use the light in the switch. Good Job Eric!
Eric why not use another relay if you want the switch to light up? Have hot running through the switch to a relay that opens a ground. Your switch will light up and everything will work properly.
Hi EricTheCarGuy a while I follow your videos I find them excellent, I learned many things thanks to you. Today I have subscribed to your channel and I would like to ask you something about a problem with a Chrysler sebring 3.5l 2008. It works normal in P or N and works very well in R but when I put D this one jumps and shuts off the engine. I turn it on again and the same thing happens. There are no error codes the check engine light is off. I took it to the dealer and they put a new pcm but the problem continues. I will be very grateful if you please give me an idea that it can be
Hey Eric, I see you bought Schaeffer oil. May I ask why you're choosing this particular brand? On Project Farm's channel, it wasn't even the runner-up in his oil competition videos. Amsoil had won. They also sell a specific oil for breaking in engines. Also haven't you said you use Pennzoil full synthetic for your vehicles? It came in second and both oils are better than Schaeffer. Thanks for the videos!
I don't like so many different kinds of switches on a dash. Maybe I am ocd, but I would have had to find some that look more like the factory ones. Otherwise, thumbs up!
There's a spot on all those chevys from 73 on I think that says ign. And one says battt.. and theres others you wont be using since your no longer running the computer it came with
Out of pure curiosity why did you not just wire the fan relays to also be activated by the same source that activates the ac compressor clutch? This way you don't need the manual switch.
I have not got the secret handshake down either and if your like me its frustrating and theres no doubt somewhere down the line there will be issues with some of those crimps and like I said last time at midnight when its pouring towing a 8000 lb load of course no ?
I wired the Ford in the same way and I have yet to have issues after 3 years. I test each connection before calling it done to prevent future issue. Thanks for your comment.
The secret handshake is to hold a set of heatshrink jaws between your thumb and index finger and install them into the crimpers. The jaws in those crimpers aren’t made for heatshrink connectors. They are made for standard vinyl or nylon connectors.
Again Eric love the truck build, but im a bit wanted to ask about water coming in the hood gap and flooding your ECM controllers connector plug-??? The way the plug is situated seems like a vulnerable position for water ingress. Hope im wrong.
First, it's a weatherproof connector. Meaning, the PCM is made to be mounted anywhere except close to a heat source like the exhaust. Second, if water is coming in at that point, the front of the truck would be underwater and I'd have bigger problems to worry about. Thank you for your input.
OK, didnt mean to sound mean and critical im just really anal about electrical, especially on todays cars laden with electronics--lol Cant wait to see the next video - M
I have an automotive question ; ). I change engine oil every year. I buy 4 liter container but my engine takes 3 so im left with oil from last 4 years. Im wondering if is it ok to mix that lefover oil and use it for this years change ? of course i always use the same oil . Yea i know this have noting to do with this video.
Maybe you can steer me in the right direction. I have a 94' c1500, the wt version. I need to remove the dash. Is there some publication that gives me the steps to remove same? I need to get to the heater/blower. Thanks
My 5yo and I watch every video, every Friday morning together while drinking coffee. Thanks Eric and the camera man
This makes my day.
That radiator set up is nice.
WOW Eric, YOU DID SO SO MUCH WORK, SPENT SO MUCH TIME & MONEY ON DAD'S TRUCK I DID NOT EXPECT ALL THIS WHEN YOU FIRST TALKED ABOUT IT ORIGINALLY. YOUR DAD IS GOING TO BE SO SURPRISED & PROUD OF YOU FOR WHAT YOU DID. THE WIRING ALONE IS UNBELIEVABLE HOW YOU DID THIS. VERY VERY GOOD JOB & DONE CORRECTLY IN SUCH A SHORT AMOUNT OF TIME, I HOPE YOU HAVE NO PROBLEMS OR BUGS WHEN IT'S DONE. WHAT A TRUCK THIS WILL BE SIR ERIC, IT WILL BE AWESOME AS YOU ARE, THANKS FOR THE UPDATE.
Thanks!
Now this is a true shout out!
just dropping a like and comment to help the channel.
keep them coming Eric (y)
I searched EVERY VIDEO on this build to find this exhaust cut out bc I wasn't a fan of the one in the Fairmont bc you had to hold it. I would recommend adding "exhaust cut out dad's truck" as a search tag.
Thanks Eric
WOW! An encyclopedia full of STUFF! LOVE watching you solve fitment problems, Eric!
And Cameraman Brian was right on point with this shoot - his follow shots were right there.
Thank you!
I admire your cleanliness for engine bays 👌🏻
My favorite routine of the morning.
Am I the only one who's "OCD" is screaming at them over the two different switches and the fact that Eric chose not to have the light work on the round switch?....lol!! I feel I should send Eric some matching switches with wireing diagrams so the lights work in the switches! Lol!! Also for what it's worth office supply stores sell little vinyl stickers that have "on/off" ,"start/stop" etc etc that will give that last final touch to make it look professional! Love the videos!! Please keep em coming!!
Yeah, I don’t understand why be doesn’t just switch the hot side. It takes practically the same amount of wire and there are plenty of sources to chose from in the Convenience Center distribution block. I also hate seeing a toggle switch on the dash. I personally would have bought some OEM switches like the fog lamp switch and relabeled them. I tend to go overboard on things though...
Something you both seem to be leaving out is the time component to this build. I had to build the entire truck in about 5 months. Also, what I did works great. It's a lot easier to swap out a switch than it is to wiring in a completely new relay. Thanks for your input.
@@ericthecarguy oh I totally get that Eric. I hope you didnt take my comment as a "put down"! I'm clearly the goofball here!...lol! Your an awesome mechanic and have more knowledge of cars than I'll ever have lol!! I thoroughly enjoy your videos and hope you keep em coming! :)
Meh, I think we're all goofballs. I just happen to be the one in the video. Seriously, I do appreciate your input and sorry if I came off otherwise.
I didn’t understand switching the ground side of the relays from the beginning. I only switch the ground side if I’m worried about current draw. The point of the relays is to limit the current to the switch. Soooooooo my OCD kicked in during the relay wiring video. 😂 I would have also added a relay to the exhaust cutout to use the same switch as mentioned. I do understand the time crunch though.
hello eric! my insomnia and myself thank you for uploading this i was running out of things to watch
I'm happy to help.
Rather than measuring those threads like you did (flipping calipers 90deg) and thinking you had to avoid the jaws getting into the minor diameter of them, just use the thicker section of caliper jaws, the jaws are perfectly parallel all the way up so don’t be afraid to use the entire area of jaws. People sometimes think that the precision area of the jaws are the tapered area, not true, the entire jaw surfaces are same accuracy. The reason they are tapered at the tips is only to fit in slotted areas of parts, in fact many times on calipers that are well used, the most inaccurate area of measurement is the tips (that area gets worn over time). Anyway, long time Toolmaker/machinist here, like your videos!!
Really liking this series and especially like the cooling system assembly off the truck. So much easier to visualise. Keep going Eric!
Love your videos, Eric! Always entertaining, informative, and helpful. It sucks when things don't work as expected but good to see your installs aren't scripted and work out exactly as you expect. This, to me, is much more realistic to what you'll find in doing your own projects. Expect the unexpected! Thanks again, man!
Love your approach and style Eric. Added you as a featured channel on my RUclips. Keep up the clean content and thanks for all the great tips!
THAT FUKUSHIMA BEE IS FREAKIN HUGE MAN! HOLY MOLY!
For a common ground I like to do a 3/4 to 1" screw with a nut and star washer, dab of Loctite pointed slightly up. Switches can be had from the dealer to match what you already have installed to give it a more contiguous look. Hiding in plain sight.
Thanks Eric. I'm liking the detail level on this one. It must be difficult going through hours of footage and picking the most interesting parts. You nailed it!
Thanks, I really appreciate that. This video, part 1&2, started out as a 7.5 hour rough cut. It did take hours to get here.
You were so busy, the Bee took a break. (Boom goes the dynamite).
Great to see your dads truck getting some upgrades. Loving the content.
Nice job. Enjoyed the video 👍
The bee just wanted to observe you working on everything.
I like your solution for the switch on the dash. Going from the lighted to the O/I being marked on the switch. That's using your noodle : )
Thank you! Finally someone gets it and doesn't tell me to run another relay so I can run a lighted switch. I appreciate that.
nice work Eric
11:52 Eric open up the switch and flip the leads on the LED light, solved. Or you can add relays to flip polarity on the switch. I am actually local and would help you get that light to come on for free if you need help let me know bud.
This is to some of the viewers. I am confident Eric knows this already I just had to explain in greater detail for those confused with illuminated switches.
On a 3-Pole Illuminated Switch the diagram is usually on the side of the switch.
*One of the poles will be your "Power In" [Generally Constant 12v or Accessory Ignition] this needs to be fused with a fuse rating that matches the amperage capability as the switch.
*One of the poles will be your load or in other words whatever your turning on with the switch. Most loads require more amperage than these tiny switches can handle, if that is the case then run this wire to the coil side of a relay and wire your load to the relay. The relay must have its own fuse just like the switch. Typical SPDT Automotive relays are 30Amp & 40Amp. If the loads demand for current is greater than the relay can handle then you can put a higher current handling "Solenoid" instead, these can generally handle your load in an automobile but also have a current handling capacity and must be fused.
*One of the poles will be your ground for the illumination when the switch is turned to the on position.
The LED light acts just like a diode and only allows current to flow in one direction to light up, it is biased and can only be connected properly one way. Where as a Bulb with a filament in it will allow current to flow in either direction to light up, it has no polarity and can not be wired backwards, it is unbiased.
Enjoy
Thanks Eric. Looks awesome
At a later point, you could add another relay under the dash, make your fan switch hot side, and use it to power the relay which can switch the ground side of the fan relays. That would allow you to maintain your existing ground side control, and would allow your illuminated switch to work.
Really nice video and audio quality on these newer videos!
Add a button that says; "Do Not Push!". Connect it to a passenger side seat shaker and a horn hidden in the passenger seat headrest as well as a hidden/electronically triggered water mister aiming at the passenger seat. :D
I can not wait to get started on the interior of my chevy
Beware of the A pillar trim.
Gm ignition is heavy gauge pink its been that way since the 50s and its still that way today
Showing that support for that quality content
Great content Eric! Makes my day watching this
Glad to hear that. Thanks for the comment.
Bitey washer is called external tooth lockwasher- you also had an internal tooth lockwasher later in the video. If you wanted to keep the lighted fan switch, you could have ran a jumper from the 12V on your exhaust cutout to the LED power terminal on the fan switch. The LED in that switch draws almost no current.
Thanks for the washer info! As for the switch, I'm not worried about it. Time was a factor with the build. Changing out the switch was the easiest, quickest solution. Thanks for your comment.
All the electrical noise in this video reminded me of the door/light warming buzzer. It's so loud. So I wrapped it in electrical tape. This lowered the volume to a much less annoying level. My truck is a 1999 Suburban. Until tecently, sold it!
The buzzer in my ‘95 Tahoe was just a little black module that plugged in under the dash. I yanked it out and it has been laying under the driver’s seat for 15yrs now.
J. Hunto's Garage I’ve got a 99 suburban too and I’ve been wondering how to make the buzzing a little quieter. I’d get rid of it altogether but it comes in handy because I leave my keys in the ignition a lot. Thanks
Awesome outstanding job thanks
Eric, put some Dynamat on the inside of the BM shifter enclosure and it won’t sound so plastic cheap when you shift it. This is a nice truck. Thanks for sharing the build.
Great video Eric Some good Information and Details see you on the next video Eric
Watching you do this reminds me of when you made a statement on the Fairmont about how much you have learned new skills, and it shows as you wiring up your dad's truck! Here are your words: ruclips.net/video/lPBB6lDwD8w/видео.html
Thanks for noticing. I suppose the idea is to get a little better each day.
Good job Eric!.
Thanks.
Hi Eric I love the style of the timelapse and recap of this video. Could be awesome to have a recap vid at the end of each of these big project series for those who didn't have the time for each individual long vid but still want to know what steps you took. Love your videos Eric you inspire me to work on my own car. Be safe.
You might also want to spray down the seat belts with a power washer. Those often get very dirty and gross overtime and I can see those ones have some staining on them. Kyle Lindsey aka. SaabKyle04 who you know has a video on that ironically enough on a 94 Jimmy
It's a right bugger when new parts come faulty, you question the work you have already done and sometimes undo it to check your false failures.
Well that's what i tend to do, always blame my work first.
I like the open harness, you can add wires so flipping easy :-D.
Yea, I normally blame myself first also. I'm usually right.
Good stuff Eric
Pretty spiffy, dude.👍
Yessss!!!!! 👍👍👍👍👍
Hello Eric,thanks for your video content.
Love the channel it's so helpful
Got a 91 swb 5.7 doing the freakin BRAKES
ABS delete Thanks man
To widen the fan shroud I’d cut it down the middle and extend it there with some rubber flaps to cover the gap.
One of my pet hates is needles led lights in everything , you’re driving down the road at night and there’s this light hitting you in the corner of your eye and with LEDs today it’s not a dim light it’s a bloody laser beam!
No need, the temp barley hits 200º even after working it hard.
Heck yea!! Been waiting for this one for a while
good job Eric
I have the factory vent cover for the center of the dash if you want it, the one you have is either for an aftermarket radio or for the factory equalizer
You do awesome work, Eric - I've learned lots watching you over the years !!
Mark the switch quiet/loud.
😎/😠 thats it!! Little stickers?
Quote of the day: " Light gives you an illusion of helping, but it's not"
Light with a magnet that can hold itself up.
@@wobblysauce That's only if there is some metal around for the helping hand... and even still.. it ends up in your eyes. The Gods enjoy their simple harassment's.
I miss your old Pantera - 5 minutes alone intro lol great video as always 🤘🏼
You can still have that switch lighted unfortunately it involves another relay to convert the positive switch to trigger a negative switch trigger possibly (possibly some diode’s) I’ve made the same mistake with aux backup lighting which was wired to be trigged by both the reverse lights and the cab light switch, one was negative trigger the other was positive trigger
Personally I usually do a separate fuse panel with it’s own relays for aftermarket accessories with their own ignition switched power and constant hot power to tap into usually I have a big circuit breaker for all that coming straight from the battery it keeps the folks that like to point fingers at aftermarket accessories causing problems Happy
Definitely love the series so far the final product came out awesome BTW 🍺😎👍🏽
For me it was just easier to change the switch. Time was a factor with this build. I built my own fuse boxes in the Fairmont like you describe. I didn't do that with this truck because I wasn't adding all that much. Thanks for your comment.
I'll let my brother (Brian) know that you like the throttle cable he made. He and I bust our asses off for guys like you. Now I need to see you put some of what I do on this truck.
Does he work for Lokar?
Both do. He's the cable guy. I'm the lead machinist. (long time viewer btw, thanks for all of the Honda help over the years)
Ha! Cool. I love the throttle cable. Best on the market in my opinion. HATE the dipstick though. That's been a problem since day 1.
Hey Eric, it's been a while since I've been in one of those dashes. I think the a/c controller has to be put in first, then the radio goes in. Great videos and looking forward to seeing this project completed.
That tesa cloth tape isn't there to hold the cables together, its for cable protection. When you are done, you can leave the tiewraps on the harness but please wrap the wires with tape.
I would have used one of those plastic rocker switches instead of that metal toggle switch so they would match and blend in to the dash. Just wire the switch to a relay to make up all the multiple poles of the toggle switch.
Hey Eric.. suggestion: get yourself an aftermarket radio and run a relay or two off the switched hot (the red wire). And of course run some hots to pin 30 of the relays.
Additionally silver is the hots and brass is negative you say? Weird... because in house electricity the brass is the hot and the silver is the grounded
Not sure why I would need to do that.
Brass is suppose to be hot in this application too. Not sure why he wanted to switch ground. That’s why his LED on the switch doesn’t work. It’s polarized and since he wired it backwards, light no work.
Hey Eric! You could make your fan switch LED work with a relay... Wire the switch up as it should be and use it to switch a relay to pull your other fan relays to ground.
Did you watch the entire video yet?
Yeah, I guess you found the easiest solution! Illuminated switches are cool though, eh?
Yes they are. The fans are really loud though. There's very little chance of leaving them on accidentally. Still, a lighted switch would be cooler. Pun intended.
Oooohhh, 6th to comment....SPAL fans 'ROCK'...Yes, I am a 'fan'....
Where do u find the back raping that goes around the wireing to protect it . Wire loom I think it's called that covers the wireing and makes it look neat and protected . My factory stuff has broken away on my wireing on my 87 chevy celebrity eurosport 2.8 and trying to find some but has to be very high temp so it doesn't melt of course. I looked in your description but didn't see it
Use another relay on the cooling fan and positive side switch it, so when activated the relay ground side switches the relay you have fitted already that way you can use the warning light in the switch.
I found that changing the switch was the quickest, easiest solution. Time was a big factor with this build.
Just add in another relay. Run +12v to switch and let the relay do the ground switching. You could do the same for the exhaust cut off and get matching switches. The last part is just my OCD acting up.
No need, what I did works. Also, there was a time component to this build. I only had about 5 months to complete all this work including the engine.
Good Job BOSS
Great info, thanks Eric. I am looking into installing a 5.3L into my 47 Chevy pick up. Can you recommend a place to purchase the adapter engine mounts?
"It's very fashionable to wear 30 Amp fuses..." hahaha!
Good man
Eric!!!! More videos!!!!!
Hello viewers welcome to the EricTheCarGuy channel and this is the hastag hondaelementsomething *installs 350sbc in Element*
Well viewers this is coming out better than I expected.
Eric when you find oil in the radiator on a 1997 V 6 Chevy Camaro with a 4 Speed Manual Transmission and your compression is fine could it still be the Head Gaskets or something else ? Note: No Water in the Crank Case and She Runs Great no issue in Performance It's a V 6 though so there's that. Tried your Facebook however, it deleted my question. Any help in the mystery of finding oil under your radiator cap will be much appreciated !! Also no channel on here has any info on Manual Transmission & Motor oil in radiator water issues ... Could be another Video my Friend lol. Cobra : )~
LOL Like your blower motor in the Acura Vigor? Gee that is not near as much work. Also you can double relay or use a MOSFET circuit to use the light in the switch. Good Job Eric!
Or just switch the hot leg like normal people...
Eric why not use another relay if you want the switch to light up? Have hot running through the switch to a relay that opens a ground. Your switch will light up and everything will work properly.
Did you watch the entire video yet?
@@ericthecarguy Yeah I saw you switched to a different switch. You just seemed so excited when you picked out the blue one tho.
I was, but time was a big factor with this build. I only had 6 months to build the entire truck before the Power Tour.
Hi EricTheCarGuy a while I follow your videos I find them excellent, I learned many things thanks to you. Today I have subscribed to your channel and I would like to ask you something about a problem with a Chrysler sebring 3.5l 2008. It works normal in P or N and works very well in R but when I put D this one jumps and shuts off the engine. I turn it on again and the same thing happens. There are no error codes the check engine light is off. I took it to the dealer and they put a new pcm but the problem continues. I will be very grateful if you please give me an idea that it can be
Nice
Hey Eric, I see you bought Schaeffer oil. May I ask why you're choosing this particular brand?
On Project Farm's channel, it wasn't even the runner-up in his oil competition videos. Amsoil had won. They also sell a specific oil for breaking in engines. Also haven't you said you use Pennzoil full synthetic for your vehicles? It came in second and both oils are better than Schaeffer.
Thanks for the videos!
My builder had it in stock when I picked up the engine. First time I've tried it. No, I've never run Pennzoil full synthetic in any of my builds.
Jump from the fan side to the light terminal to get the led to light up.
I don't like so many different kinds of switches on a dash. Maybe I am ocd, but I would have had to find some that look more like the factory ones. Otherwise, thumbs up!
How much more do I have to take apart before I finish the modification for this one thing so know how you feel eric
Nice💯🤘🏼🇺🇸
There's a spot on all those chevys from 73 on I think that says ign. And one says battt.. and theres others you wont be using since your no longer running the computer it came with
Out of pure curiosity why did you not just wire the fan relays to also be activated by the same source that activates the ac compressor clutch? This way you don't need the manual switch.
Most important question for the whole video. Did the bee survive?
I didn't kill it if that's what you're asking.
@@ericthecarguy No I wasn't implying that
I've just never seen a bee that size so still, for so long :)
I have not got the secret handshake down either and if your like me its frustrating and theres no doubt somewhere down the line there will be issues with some of those crimps and like I said last time at midnight when its pouring towing a 8000 lb load of course no ?
I wired the Ford in the same way and I have yet to have issues after 3 years. I test each connection before calling it done to prevent future issue. Thanks for your comment.
The secret handshake is to hold a set of heatshrink jaws between your thumb and index finger and install them into the crimpers. The jaws in those crimpers aren’t made for heatshrink connectors. They are made for standard vinyl or nylon connectors.
Eric, use a small pilot relay,so you can get that light to work...
Time was a factor. It was easier to change the switch like I showed in the video. Thanks for your comment.
Greetings Eric
Greetings.
I've been keeping up with the build, but, never really got what the cooling fan switch was for. Isn't it auto-switching based on temp?
Again Eric love the truck build, but im a bit wanted to ask about water coming in the hood gap and flooding your ECM controllers connector plug-??? The way the plug is situated seems like a vulnerable position for water ingress. Hope im wrong.
First, it's a weatherproof connector. Meaning, the PCM is made to be mounted anywhere except close to a heat source like the exhaust. Second, if water is coming in at that point, the front of the truck would be underwater and I'd have bigger problems to worry about. Thank you for your input.
OK, didnt mean to sound mean and critical im just really anal about electrical, especially on todays cars laden with electronics--lol Cant wait to see the next video - M
Sorry if I came off wrong. I wasn't offended, just trying to get to the point. Thank you for your questions and input.
I have an automotive question ; ). I change engine oil every year. I buy 4 liter container but my engine takes 3 so im left with oil from last 4 years. Im wondering if is it ok to mix that lefover oil and use it for this years change ? of course i always use the same oil
. Yea i know this have noting to do with this video.
I always hated working on "Tuner pack" radios like this when I was in mobile electronics.
Hey Eric, where did you find the manual with all the stock wiring like you have used in this series.
Sweet Jesus! I swear I thought that was Tom Segura wearing a hat in the thumbnail! Lol keep it high n tight, Eric!
Maybe you can steer me in the right direction. I have a 94' c1500, the wt version. I need to remove the dash. Is there some publication that gives me the steps to remove same? I need to get to the heater/blower. Thanks
Use an additional relay to get the blue light on the switch working.....
lmao 'i dont even need eyes' freakin died laughing
Go all out to get the blue light Eric...(or change the switch) My OCD demands it! ;O
Then watch the entire video. 😉 My OCD demands it.
@@ericthecarguy Thought I did..Maybe I missed summate! ;)
I changed the switch just as you suggested.
@@ericthecarguyAw Shucks! ;)
20:30 the actual lesson is to always solder your connections.
Hmm a ground circuit switch is still switching power, it's just on the ground side of the load, led on switch should still work if grounded...