Honing Guide PROTRUSION STOP | 2 Minute Tuesday
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- Опубликовано: 6 ноя 2017
- As requested, this is how to make a protrusion stop for your honing guide to lock in the common angles you sharpen. This is a very down and dirty method but you will learn the basic idea behind it. It is then up to you to bodge or make as pretty as you wish!
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Like the workbench? Watch me make it here: ruclips.net/video/FXKYwM0f5WU/видео.html&t
This couldn't have been better. I wanted to know how to do this, and this covered it with no extra fluff.
Second best 3 minutes off my day.Great job
Brilliant advice, I have been struggling to get sharp tools for ages even with the honing guide, but after watching your breakdown I have managed a brilliant edge on my chisel, only need to replicate to my other ones and planes and away I can go. Thanks.
Excellent, no wasted time but enough info for the simplest of us to follow
Keep them up.
Thanks for the hits, never think of this way, thanks again.
Very helpful Matt! I have been wondering how to go about this task, now I have the answer. Great and Thank you for your video!
So simple but such a great idea. Thanks Matt
Best instructions on RUclips. Very easy and straight forward. I'm off to the shop Thanks
I had been wondering about this and the solution is facepalm simple. I can't believe I hadn't figured that out myself, but thank you for the quick tip! I definitely have some sharpening in my future.
Haha always the way! Glad it helped!
The bevel box on its own was a great idea! Much easier than a tape measure.
Thank you so much! Learning so very much. Your videos make me think that any project is possible!
Hi Matt. Great video. I am a joiner and have always free hand sharpened my chisels and plane blades (and I've done them a lot) and if I'm honest I've never been extremely happy with them. Since watching your videos I have been using a jig. I quite believe the difference. I was bought an axminster honing guide as a gift. And yes it is a little cumbersome but I find it easy to use. And accurate ever time. I also wish I had sent your video on chisel selection, before I spanked out a load of money on kirschen chisels. I'm not overly happy with them.
Love watching your channel.
Ah mate that's absolutely brilliant to hear. It's incredibly fulfilling to know my videos are making a difference and I'm glad to hear you're getting better results! Shame about the Kirschens but at least you know for next time. You'll be able to demote them to paint can openers!
Brilliant! Thanks Matt
Love it Matt! 2 minute Tuesdays, with some nifty edditing to get it bang on! ;o)
So bloody simple too!
I chat waaayy to much crap to fit my tutorials into 2 minutes. Nifty editing is my saviour here! Cheers Jim!
Matt, Thanks for another great tip.
No worries bud!
This is a helpful vid ! Thanks!
Thanks for the tip! I’ve been thinking about how I’d have to bust out some math to figure this out for my cheap guide.
Thanks Matt, another good video mate.
Cheers Ken!
Love it. I just got my first honing guide too
Great explanation. Thanks!
Really very helpful…..so simple…..very useful
Genius !!!Thanks
I also made a jig for my old record honing guide. I used trigonometry, so taking the thickness of the honing guide to top of chisel and dividing through by tan(angle). in the case of 30degrees, you just need to multiply that thickness by 1.7, which is the square root of 3, ish. Also did this at 25 degrees for my planes
That method is so much cooler than mine! Great idea Jacob.
Matt Estlea - Furniture thanks for sharing the video really like your style, I'm hoping to start filming myself make stuff soon and I'm learning as much from your videography as your tutorials (which is a lot) so cheers!
Nice! I'll keep an eye out for your first upload! I've been learning all my videography from Peter McKinnon, the guy I mentioned at the start of the video. His channel is well worth a look!
Another great video Matt, instead of a “bevel box” I’ve used a smartphone app to get to the correct angle, little fiddly due to the size but workable and accurate
Cheers Peter! Yea a few people have mentioned that app now. I'll have to look into it more.
WOW!!!, You read me mind, thank you for the video.. excellent topic and very nice video. I have been trying to find your video (if one was there) on how you made the board, I had some ideas, but I find it better to seek the professionals view.
There are many ways of doing it so you were probably thinking along the right lines, this is just my method. Nevertheless you know now so I hope you get good results from here on!
The protrusion stop is very handy indeed when you want to hone your chissels.
For those who plan to make a protrusion stop here are the distances for the different angles
20 degrees 52,38 mm
25 degrees 38,10 mm
30 degrees 29,36 mm
35 degrees 22,22 mm
40 degrees 15,87 mm
45 degrees 11,11 mm
50 degrees 7,93 mm
Thank you very much for that information. :)
Thanks alot, Sir. For me this is a huge favor.
Regards from Karachi.
thanks for this! Are the distances the same for both chisels and plane blades?
@@Drumms247 yep, exactly the same.
Thank you!
Damn! You rock… I’ve been looking for directions on how to set up and use my Katz moses honing jig… and BAMMM… you! I should have gone to you first. Thanks
Like the 2 minute Tuesday
Awesome, great to hear!
Made one, works well thanks for the video.....:)
This guy's a friggin wiz!
outstanding
I could go for thousand minute thursdays if you had the time! loving these videos!
Trust me, I chat so much rubbish that is entirely possible. Careful what you wish for!
Thanks. Great tip....rr
Cheers Matt
all this video taugh me is that I need a digital angle thingy! thanks!
Iv'e heard that using protrusion stops varys the angel from blade to blade with different thicknesses.Is this true??
nice to see somebody local
That's bananas.
Thanks and yes simple fix i looked at the side an there it was lol keep it up mate
So easy to overlook isn't it? Cheers Donald!
Yeppers keep the good stuff coming
What do you think about oil stone vs water
I freehand sharpen but I think I would like to get one of those jigs for restoring the bevel every so often and for small chisels that can be hard to register. You may have said but I'm being lazy can you suggest one that is good but not crazy expensive. As always love your videos one of only a few I watch as soon as I am notified.
Cheers Anthony! In regards to the honing guide, I would recommend grabbing one of these cheap side clamping ones to get you going and see how you get on from there. I did a tool duel between the Lie-Nielsen guide and Veritas Guide which will give you an idea of what to look out for should you wish to upgrade later on. ruclips.net/video/O_adhVrZFws/видео.html
Can you please tell me the distance each block is from the edge of that plywood.That way i could go straight ahead without bevelbox or smartphone.
I have the Lie Nielsen honing guide, the instructions that came with the guide, which I used initially, state 1-1/2 inch (38.1mm) for a 25 degree angle, I was perfectly happy with that until I bought the bevel box to set up the guide protrusion stop (and other uses), I expected the bevel box to give a similar reading to the Lie Nielsen instructions but they are significantly different, bevel box shows 40.5mm. Not sure if I'm just splitting hairs? Which would be best to use, any suggestions? I'm inclined to go with the bevel box. This was all for a plane blade & i did zero the bevel box to my bench before setting the angle, not sharpened any chisels yet.
Thanks
It's ok, you really don't have to be too fussy about the final angle it gives. As long as its near 30 degrees, that's all that matters. Besides, 2mm difference is going to change the sharpening angle by the smallest amount that its not worth worrying about. What's more important is using the exact same stop block every time you set up the honing guide to get repeatable results. But you're right, I'd probably go for the bevel box. Hope that helps!
That's cool. Honing guide protrusion stop up & running, took me a bit more than 2 mins :) Thanks for the swift response. Great vids, keep'em coming.
Kind of on subject, regarding plane blades, I noticed - at least with Lie Nielsen - the bench planes with the chip breaker have the blade mounted bevel down, while the block and shoulder planes are blade bevel up. Would you know the technical reason for these ‘as designed’ blade orientations and of any functional impacts of reversing them? Thanks.
Because the bevel is up, low angle gives you greater versatility in regards to increasing the cutting angle. This helps in reducing tearout when planing figured timber. I did a video on it here! ruclips.net/video/6fGqh42lSM0/видео.html
Are the projections different for chisels and planes due to them being different thicknesses? And to that point are all planner blades the same thickness?
That works...
What is the distance between the edge of the board and ur 25 and 30 degree blocks?
Now wouldn't that have been slot easier and quicker?? That is the whole reason watched
@@oscar38 Same! Just need those damn numbers lol!
How can I make a guide.if using a tormek grinding wheel???
As usual great video, shame all you are doing is so distant for me, I would have to pay minimum 2 week wage for any of the planes you are using (I'm talking about basic veritas #4 or #5), even this magetic thingie would cost me my 1-2 day wage @.@ I'm used to use tools like protractor for things like this (or smartphone apps), and all my tools are at least 50 years old, so all that talk about different types of steel, all the functions of the tool etc is so abstract for me ;]
Still, love your approach to youtube, great editing, great content, and you are natural in front of camera. While 1-2min X-days are fun, I had the feeleing you were chasing the clock, while it was not so much the case with your first 1min wensday, it was here. But I won't be hiding that I generally prefer longer ones, because you talk with sense and I can see you are trying to exhaust topic as much as you can.
Honestly it doesn't really matter if it's 25 or 26 or whatever, as long as it is in the ball park it's fine, and the stop blocks make it so that you are consistent every time which is the actual important thing
Hey mat that angle for protusion stop should be same for plane blades and chisels?? I will need two as one on my chisels vintage is a bit shorter than the others that's right??
I’m not Matt, but I believe I can answer correctly. The angle is always measured from the point of the tip. As the degree of the bevel is measured from the tip and the tip is the actual reference point, the protrusion is only a known or measured distance from the tip back somewhere in the length-wise plane (first dimension) going from the tip back towards the anchor, being it a handle on a chisel or the mouting on a plane.
Knowing this, you can deduct that it does not matter if the chisel is 4 inches long or 4 feet long, as the bevel will start from the known distance from the tip and everything longer is just there for comfort and practibility in handling or mounting the steel as it is extra in the same dimension.
The thickness of the blade (second dimension) is not relevant, because the honing guide will be referenced somewhere on the length of the blade (first dimension) towards the point of the tip and both the “upper” and “lower” part of the blade are parallel, so even turning the blade upside down would result in the same distance , assuming the stop block is higher than the thickness of the blade so the tip will stop on the stop block.
The width (third dimension) of the blade is also not relevant as the protrusion is measured on the length (first dimension) of the blade.
It is worth mentioning that keeping the edge of the protusion stop (where the honing guide will be held against the base plate) parallel to the stop block helps keeping the 90 degrees of the edge towards the anchor of the blade (imagine a T drawing where the top is the edge with the tip and bevel and the bottom is the anchor against the tool/handle).
Hope it helps, although it was a bit technical and 3 dimensional 👍
what is thos used for
What is the measurement from the edge for the 25 and 30 degree blocks?
Try looking at Polly van der Beeks reply, pretty accurate in my opinion.
That shirt is bananas.
Great isn't it?
I actually used super glue to hold the piece down square at the right length. Was super easy
I was going to do that, but I realised right before filming that I had ran out! I've obviously been fixing too many components and used it all up...
Matt, my honing guide doesn’t have the different angles on the side. In milimetres, what would the distances be for 25 and 30 degrees???
What came first? The protrusion stop or the sharp chisel?
but how if we dont have an I Phone or bevel box ???...is nothing any manual technique there ???...thanks
Get yourself a standard protractor!
Thanks Matt :) Very helpful. I am also wondering about the Jesus Pen ॐ
Oh god, he's becoming more prominent than me in these videos...
He is a popular guy :D Really enjoying these videos though, seriously. Thanks for making them :)
I missed the Jesus pen!!! Great Video!
Cool stuff, Matt. I still find myself needing to fiddle with volume between your spoken sections and the music-only intro, the latter of which is a bit on the loud side.
Yea I'm still working on that balance Jim, cheers for pointing it out. I'll see what I can do.
five minute friday? oh and you should check out the sharpening video on my channel Matt, just for some other input on the sharpening topic and your back catalogue plan of videos.
Hi, good vids , but i dont want to pay 15 bangers for a bevel box which i will use once, some of us dont have the financial resources to buy it all, i ve bought the guide as i see it as a great tool, can you do a vid of making the jig without the box. Or just stick up the measurements of the blocks on here. Ps i cant find the link to using the protractor. Tia again great vids.
What is a D angle?
Thanks for the video and instructions Matt. You need to slow down or you won’t make it to 50!!!
What's the measurements in mm please Matt?
Come on, your like a god to us, don't let us down.
As the saying goes: Good artists borrow. Great artists steal. Nick away
And for all those among us that don't possess a digital bevel box, just measure accurately, you won't be far off!
Shouldn’t some extra time be spent really making sure the stops are perfectly square? Maybe I’m overthinking it but I’m scared I’ll end up with skewed irons if I’m using the iron in the guide as the reference
I have a question, which is a real noob question. Does it really matter if your 30 degree angle is 29 or 31 degrees, what I get from sharpening videos is that you want the bevels to always be at the same angle, so as I see it, as long as a bevel is always the same every time you sharpen it then it does not really matter.
If I am wrong can someone educate me?
Not an expert - but it should not make any difference.
if you haven't got one of those snazzy boxes and if, like me, you're over 18 and haven't got the handy level app (or any other app) on your iPhone, then use tangent of the angle = opposite over adjacent. tan 25 = 0.4663. If the 'opposite' blah blah - google basic trig functions and work it out.... !
Your stop block has a 50° on it but my honing guide does not call for 50°
A few drops of Krazy Glue eliminates the need for screws and is faster, too.
that end joint on your work table is your resume
Super adhd
Question, why make the guide if you have the angle finder? Couldn’t you just use that every time instead of having 1 more jig floating around the shop?
Wow 16k subs
WHERE IS THE JESUS PEN!?!?!?
BUGGER! He will be returning!
You must like that your initials are ME. I'd get a kick out of it every time I wrote them.
It will depend on the size of your roller and the distance from the roller to the back of the blade. Once you sum those, the thirty degree one is easy, the distance is twice the sum of the distances. For other angles you will have to get out your sine tables.
Am I missing something here? Why not just mark 30 or 25 degrees (whatever) with a Sharpie on the blade being sharpened and line this up with the edge of the jig?
Because as the blade gets shorter, that measurement will eventually be inaccurate
Can you just not tell us the distance in inches or cm for each angle? As still don't have the tools you mentioned. Thanks!
its. actually 3:00
minute and half monday?
Haha pushing it now! Still catchy though!
Kind of OCD syndrome here, with someone who is fascinated by YT celebs bubble.
For the rest, the less millennial ones:
*Chisels*
25°=40 mm (1.75")
30°=30 mm (1.25")
*Planes*
25°=50mm (2")
30°=38mm (1.5")
And frankly, it's wise to build it smaller/narrower. Just fasten limiters on both side of a small board. No need to drill extra screws.
I'm not saying you are wrong about anything... what are you some sort of f****** genius?
Knowing everything at your age. Bit weird really.
Thank your lucky stars you are blessed genetically.
Not all of us were.
Had enough coffee?
Could have made this a 2 Second Tuesday: “Hello. Buy a bevel box. Goodbye.”
Yeah, not really seeing the point of this if you have a honing guide and bevel box on hand already. Lets build a thing that takes the guess work out by using these tools that take the guess work out to build it... why?
Actually I was wrong. This is all about consistency, so it makes perfect sense.
Devi essere più' Rilassato .. )) Sei troppo elettronico ..
jesus....
Well, thanks. That stared out good then went south real quick. I do not own a digital unit. You could have taken the time to tell us the actual distance. So to me it was utterly useless.
Did it never occure to you to measure the distance the stop blocks are form the edge of the plank. I mean jesus. Now we ave to buy more tools to do this. You really want to help people, tell them how far the block as to be form the edge.
The distance depends on your honing guide. If he shows you the measurements from that one and you use those with a different guide, then you'll be wondering why your bevels are taking so long to get right.
But the video is 3 minutes
So, I guess this guy keeps losing his electronic protractor, the bevel box, and prefers to clutter his kit with the protrusion stop lash up. Hey Matt, the bevel box is magnetic, keep on refrigerator door.
Using a protrusion stop is quicker than using a bevel box - it also means the angle will be exactly the same every time!
Great tutorial but ruined by the completely unnecessary need to comply with an arbitrary and counter-productive self-imposed time limit. For heavens sake, drop this stupid idea in future please, so we can truly appreciate and absorb what you’re telling and showing us.
This topic didn't need anything more than a 2 minute explanation. If I feel a topic needs further depth, it will be in the form of a full length tutorial.
Matt Estlea - Furniture: Sorry, as a follower of your excellent tutorials, I have to disagree. In contrast with your other videos, this one came across in a frantic rush which made it harder to follow and assimilate. It was all too obvious that you were trying to beat the clock rather than take a little longer and present it at a more leisurely pace. Its not the depth of information which was lacking but the haste with which it was delivered.
I dont think...anybody can understand some blocks on a plate to help align the length of the device.
lose the music ,talk slower. take your time or its wasted.
There is another guide on YT, the video of which goes for 14+ minutes! Glacially slow. I know which I prefer.
Why is it a race for time?
You raced past the most important part, the angle set up..
This video explains little.
It's just you saying, put that there and you do that and pop here.
Rubbish.