Toyota Lexus hybrid radiator replacement
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- This is the second of a 2 part video set showing the diagnosis of a coolant leak and subsequent radiator replacement on a 2008 Lexus Rx 400h. This video is an amateur presentation, shown in good faith, for free, but there are no guarantees as to safety or accuracy. Never rely on one source for critical information, and always consult the official dealer repair manual for important details. Any misadventure you encounter if you decide to try to repair your own vehicle is at your own risk.
To watch part 1, go to this link.
• Coolant leak repair in... 
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Thank you so much. Your videos on replacing the radiator gave me the confidence to do so myself on my 2006 RX400H. It went very well. I started at 10am and was finished by 6pm including some piddling around, polishing parts that didn't need it, and eating lunch very quickly. I feel compelled to say that you have an excellent way of presenting and explaining things. "You are a natural"!
The biggest pain to me was actually that lower radiator hose clamp. I kept trying to get the factory one back on and finally went into my garage and found a clamp like what we are all used to (one with a screw to tighten the band)! Somehow it is nearly impossible to get a set of channel locks on the thing and work it into position. I managed to, however, on the upper hose as the tool's handles are not constrained like they are down on the lower hose.
My dealer had just changed my radiator fluid when they notified me of the long-standing leak so I reused the vast majority of the fluid -- all but any that I deemed not "pristine". Reusing allowed me to very carefully pour back in the same amount as I saved it all in clear plastic drink bottles. The only stuff that I didn't pour back in was that which came out of the radiator and hose when I shimmied it out and it got dirty. So I measured that bit and substituted with the same amount of fresh. The reason that I mention this is because I used a different method to refill. I did it with the engine off and then when it wouldn't take more I held a funnel to the filler cap inlet, making a seal, and massaged the upper hose to burp it (lower hose too but mostly the upper). That actually only provided limited success at first as I was failing to return the full amount of fluid to the vehicle. To get the last liter and a half in, I fired the car up and without haste drove the nose of the vehicle so it was heading up my steep driveway. Parked there, and with the engine off, I was able to half-fill the funnel (while holding it tight to the filler to make a good seal) and massage the upper radiator hose so that it burped air that must be coming from inside the engine. With the engine lower than the upper hose and filler, it seemed to work! I was able to put in about 2 cups of additional fluid beyond what had been removed originally. At that point I could coax no more in as it quit burping air. At this point I was extremely confident that "it was full".
I did originally try running the engine and adding but that didn't seem to be conducive to making sure that there was no air pocket inside the engine while it heated up. And I was stuck there with probably 2 liters more needing to be added with no space to pour into. I didn't give this much further effort as I worried about doing engine damage. So I quickly decided on my different approach and was very happy with the outcome.
Oh, and the radiator that I got via Amazon ($86 Prime; Denso 221-3144) seemed fairly identical to the original one although there was an improvement that probably will help ward off the type of failure that happened to my factory radiator: seepage from where the aluminum tubes join to the plastic tanks. The new Denso one has cuts in the upper and lower U shaped channels that form the upper and lower supports spanning from tank to tank. The failed factory one did not have this. They did this on the new one so that as the length of the finned tubes expands and contracts with heating and cooling, the upper and lower support channels don't fight that movement. Those channels are likely not going to get as hot as the tubes nor will they heat/cool at the same rate.
Someone else mentioned that their new radiator had the "overflow" nib pointed toward the overflow tank instead of the other way around and mine was that way too. It was a simple matter to cut the tube running between so that it was shorter and no longer needed to bend. Again, the new radiator has this "improvement" which makes that tube less circuitous.
Thanks again, times five hundred! That's about how many dollars I saved and ended up with the satisfaction of doing it myself with help from you and your viewers! Kudos!!
Excellent contribution to the thread, I'm sure it will help others in the same situation. Thanks for taking the time to pass on helpful detail.
Thanks for this refresher. My wife's '06 400h started leaking again a few months ago. I tried some Alumaseal which did not help. Now I have the dreaded job to do it a second time. I remember those 12 mm fasteners that I had to undo that I couldn't even see. I've done a lot of rads but none this labor intensive. Seems like a common issue with this vehicle and my second radiator didn't last any longer than the original.
Fascinating. We own a 2004 RX330, so this is even more interesting to me as an arm chair mechanic. Unfortunately, lack of knowledge, time, and tools keeps me going to the dealer. Except for a failing (in hot weather) side mirror and a broken CD player we've had zero mechanical failures in the 13 years we've owned it.
+Marty Backe Yeah, overall Toyota have done a lot of things right. Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks for the video, flushing the radiator first is something I wasn't aware of so thanks.
I needed that little bit on how to install the bottom two bolts, so I will take your advice and remove the bottom holder piece.
Just found your channel, you do great work and your commentary is excellent. Thanks for your efforts, it is appreciated. Liked and subbed.
What a kind remark. Thank you, and nice to meet you.
Dave
Thanks man for making this footage. Awesome!! I worked about 7 hours for radiator replacement. Mostly due to rusty bolts it took so long. But finally mission accomplished.
what kind of car?
@@MrBazsi888 I own also a 2008 Lexus RX 400h.
you kind of glossed over the trickiest part of this repair. getting those two lower 12mm bolts out that hold the radiator on the lower support is a huge pain... I found you can lift up the whole assembly (including the other two radiators) and stick a block underneath to create some space. the other thing that helped me was to look through an access hole on the bottom so you can see where that bolt is and when your wrench is on it. replacing the bolts is tougher. Recommend you have some sort of magnet grabber handy as I ended up loosing a bolt and the metal 'cap' washer that holds the rubber grommet not once but twice.
Thank you for your contribution here, I'm sure it will help others. I had to grin when you used the word 'gloss', since there was no glossing in my shop -- it was tough! Yes, I used a similar method to the way you describe above. When I recognized that those bolts would be a pain to replace, I removed the bottom plate after lifting the condenser off of it. Bolting those onto the new rad before putting the new rad into place seemed easier that it would have been. Many radiators don't have bottom bolts, and I wonder if professional shops might cut a corner and leave them out. I wouldn't.
should have started with "thank you" - your video made my replacement much more straight forward that it would have been otherwise. Thanks a million!
Enjoyed man , I think it is a great fix . New radiators are a beast in these newer cars . You showed a hybred ! Thumbs up ..
+ShawnMrFixitlee Yeah, as you know the main problem is limited space and poor access. Thanks for dropping by!
Good follow-up Dave with some good advice about how to keep the engine running to get the coolant in there.
+stuzman52 Thanks, Terry. It's always a struggle to cut length but retain responsible safety information. I considered reshooting the last part to make is shorter, but ultimately didn't bother.
+spelunkerd Dave, I didn't think it was long at all. I believe if people are really interested in what one has to say, they will watch the video. You did a fine job with both videos.
Well done video, through and detailed enough that my dealer can't overcharge me for the work.
Thanks!
I'm glad it helped. Having experience with all the things that can go wrong in the garage, I have a healthy respect for the complications professionals have to deal with every day. They often undercharge for problems like broken or crossthreaded bolts, then make up for it when the repair goes smoothly. What I find most rewarding about auto repair is the understanding of how these systems work. Any saving I had through the years was reinvested in tools.
Lovely... learnt a few tricks watching this
Dave, it's great to get two videos from you in one week and both very good and worth the watching. I would have thought the hybrids would have a optional service state that would allow the engine to be run when stationary just for such occasions. What interesting OBD information do they provide to you? In any case a big thanks for the two.
+Don Challenger Thanks, Don. Toyota use a Techstream computer interface, where things like bleeding brakes and running the engine are easy. But for people who work on vehicles made by many different companies, some kind of work around effort is needed. I've been using Autoenginuity, which is better than your average code reader but nowhere close to the OEM interface. For this repair I didn't even bother to check for codes (probably none would show).
Such a well made video 😊 thank you!!!!
Sounds like the cooling system is tricky to refill, i suppose it helps if you know how much coolant it requires, then you have an idea if there is any large air pockets hiding.
I allways enjoy your intellegent and sharp way of looking at things :-)
+zx8401ztv Thanks, man.
Nice work on this series!
thanks a million for taking the effort to make this how-to video....it's helped me a lot. Cheers!
I'm glad it helped, thank you for the followup!
My 2 cents though...it's extremely helpful to wear disposable surgical gloves when doing these type of DIY. Over time, the exposure to various chemicals are be harmful to the skin (not to mention the need to scrub your hands clean whenever you need to take a break to do something else). I'm always reminded every time I work on all the grease and grime that these gloves are worth their weight in gold.
Good video idk if you know but you can put the car in maintenance mode and it will cause the car to not turn off
Well done sir!
Great video. Not sure if the yellow funnel you were using was one of those radiator funnels that comes with a few different size caps. If it was I need to get one.
+dwoodog Yes, that's exactly the one. I showed more detail of that funnel in another video and I didn't want to make the vid any longer by repeating. I really like how it works, although you have to spend a little time to get the right combination for your size cap. They are quite cheap, I got mine at Princess Auto in Canada.
Well, the two lower bolts were a real bear as others have validated in the comments. I chose NOT to replace them on install of the new radiator and I couldn't be more pleased. Works great without and has plenty of integrity. No other vehicle I have worked on had them and the upper support brackets are plenty to hold it in place.
Yeah, I'm not sure why those are put in place that way. I thought it was because the installation robots put the radiator in before installing the AC condenser. That may work fine in the factory, but radiators fail a lot more often than do ac condensers, and when they do the techs want an easy solution that doesn't require evacuation of the ac system. Thanks for your followup.
Ah yes the oversight. Just changed a fuel pump in my Chevy, but no start, I had left a ground wire off!
Prevention is always better than cure. Good advice to all us diyers.
Hi very nice video. I had to replace the radiator on my Lexus rx 400h do you know the part number of the radiator to be sure to order the correct one? thanks
Mine was aftermarket, so it depends on who you go to. If the number is not shown on either video, it is lost. Sorry. I think I went to NAPA for that one, I don't remember what the number was, but I just took my vehicle info in and they gave me the correct part. Some mail order websites offer those numbers, and of course you could go to the dealers manual for the dealer part number. I recall that the dealer OEM part was almost twice as expensive. Good luck!
Great Video. I had to stop for the night. I am to the part of getting those two lower 12mm bolts out that hold the radiator on the lower support. Is it possible to unbolt the condenser and lift it just enough so that you can slide the radiator and the lower support out without having to unbolt the radiator from the support while still in the vehicle. It sounds like you did the reverse when you reinstalled the new one?
That's an idea, it might work. I found that I was able to get enough access by that maneuver you describe to remove the bolts, even though they are hard to see. Notice that I also used a special wrench set (shown in my hand during that part of the video) that requires minimal clearance over the head of the bolt. I use those wrenches all the time. Good luck!
Yes it did work. It took a little prying and I had to remove the drain plug screw and take off the lower radiator fitting. Phew. Now I'm waiting for my radiator to arrive. Thank you so much.
Thanks for following up, I'm sure it will help others.
Good video
+wtbm123 Thanks, man.
I still drive my 2nd gen ram, and speaking of radiators, I've been curious if the Cummins (2500/3500) radiator is a direct swap in the 1/2 tons. I believe it's twice as thick as the gasser radiator. I don't have the factory mechanical fan or shroud anymore since I converted to two rather powerful electric fans.
+Samuel Thomas They say that conversion to electric fans leads to ~1mpg improvement in gas mileage, which sounds good. Do you think you got that when you did the swap?
+spelunkerd I'd say I probably have. The benefits are more seen in the winter, or any time of the year on the highway. I drive like an idiot and still manage to get 10mpg city, before the fan conversion I seem to recall getting 7-8mpg city.
Hi thanks for the video it’s amazing
before buying a new radiator I would like to know if you can fix the fissures in the plastic
Good question! Nobody fixes those, though when I was a kid we would solder connections when they were all copper. For devices that can be hard to swap out, quality control is everything.
spelunkerd ok, thanks
you have a video of the noise that radiator fans makes
Same suv 2006 lexus rx400h
@@joseescamilla352 No video of that, but they should be almost silent. Fans on new vehicles like the Lexus shown are almost exclusively electric, and most of those are powered by 12V DC with a controlling thermostat. The Lexus has dual electric fans, which stay off until temp rises enough to justify the extra load on the battery and alternator. Older vehicles have belt driven fans, like my '98 Dodge Ram, which are never off so they are a constant drain on fuel economy. In the transition we had fans with a viscous clutch that would release when it is cold outside, taking the strain off the engine and allowing the engine to warm up faster. My 2000 Suburban has one of those, it's a little noisy but it does the job. Electric fans can be tested by turning them on and off with a high end scan tool, but you can practically test them by just seeing how they perform in the cold and after they start up when warm.
spelunkerd
Very interesting
now I'm just going to check which fan makes noise to change it
some other method to check the fans, if I do not have the scan tool
good video..
Hey, thanks for stopping by.
any advice for Lexus LS600h leaking radiator swap ?
Hi i am trying to replace radiator on RX400H 2007 and i bought i a after market radiator but on the radiator overflow hose connection is on left side and i am not sure if overflow hose is long enough to connect the overflow hose connection on radiator please help to resolve this problem thanks or also let me know where you bought the after market radiator thanks
It would be uncommon but not rare for your hoses to fail to match up on a generic replacement. If your dealer is sure this is the one for your vehicle, then your only alternative would be to replace or reroute the hose. Note that the connection to the overflow reservoir needs to be perfectly air tight for the siphon mechanism to work properly. My rad came from NAPA.
thanks for your help i found the correct radiator and i hope i will not have any problem. I will replace radiator first time on my RX and i will follow your instructions from your video please let me know if you have any advice for me thanks
can i use 2010 highlander hybrid radiator on 2013? it will work without problem?
Not sure, you could ask somebody at a parts store.
@@spelunkerd nobody knows :(
OK my radiator on my 2008 RX400H failed in the EXACT SAME location. Looks like Lexus has a defect in their radiator.
Yeah, they are not made like they used to be made, and there is no option for repair. That said, aftermarket radiators don't last very long, either. From their perspective, the rad lasted beyond the warranty period so a manager would consider this to be a success, not a failure. We who buy older cars see the world differently. At least a rad is not as expensive as the real headaches, the electric motor, CVT, and the battery. Many new vehicles with serious problems hit the junk yard, and cannot be repaired by people like you and me.
spelunkerd agree...I did the electric a/c compressor last year. no one in town would touch it outside of lexus or toyota.
OEM on line is around $280 +$30 shipping. Dealer is $450. Aftermarket is $140 Advanced Auto Parts.
You can keep the engine running on the hybrid by putting it into "maintenance mode" or "mechanic mode" or "service mode". ruclips.net/video/BnKUlMNW44E/видео.html
Так почему ж они текут? В России каждый год, два менять.
+Александр Чаплиев Google translate is not helping me here very much. I think your question asks why are there two parallel cooling systems, with two water pumps, etc. Not sure. Perhaps it is because when the engine stops, cooling may still be needed for the hybrid parts because they are still running. If cooling is dependent on a mechanical water pump, you'd have to program the engine to run more than you want. By having an electric water pump, it is easier to control independent of the engine. On the other hand, why not have an entirely electric cooling system? I suppose two parallel systems serve their own components better than would a multipurpose system....
So, I have heard you ALWAYS use Lexus OEM parts not aftermarket. This is the best price I have found on an OEM Lexus replacement. Anyone else know of any other good prices on OEM Lexus parts? www.lexuspartsnow.com/parts/lexus-radiator-assy-no-2~16041-20353.html
I've had a contrary experience with Toyota. As you know, Toyota make many parts that are interchangeable with Lexus parts, it's often the same base engine made by a division of the same company. 5 years ago I was quoted $150 for a new Lexus block heater, so I went to Toyota and got the exact same OEM part for $45 including shipping. You need a parts man who can tell you if the Toyota or Prius part is interchangeable with the Lexus version. "Luxury" tax takes many forms, so shop around.