This is my edc ccw. I added the 17 rd mags and Holosun 507c with the c&p aluminum optic plates. Shoots well between 5-25 yards. I highly recommend this gun to others.
Consider the full size for the size of your hands. Definitely going to be a better fit. These are among the best pistols available today. This gun is exceedingly better than the PDP.
@@PrezUSMC Yeah I just saw that release in the full size version. Wondering if they're going to release a compact or if they want to wait and see how it's received first. Either way a metal version is pretty cool.
the chamber loaded indicator is a state law (Ma.) for the sale of approved handguns. Might be able to obtain a 2nd market replacement barrel out of state.
I know there's a few states out there like that. I'm not saying not to have a loaded chamber indicator, I'm just saying change the one they have if they plan on making all their pistols optics ready.
Do you like that gun companies are updating their flagship handguns almost every year? I welcome it so that brands can be competitive. It seemed like for a little while, every company was copying Glock, just like smaller phone brands copy iPhones. I want everyone to compete and best each other to give us consumers the greatest of their accomplishments.
Yeah competition is always good. Times have definitely changed and now we're spoiled for choice. I got into shootings pistols at a young age and things use to be a lot different. People use to hate Glocks back then way more than they do now and they also hated 9mm too. Most people carried a 1911, a revolver or double/single action pistols. Then Glock started becoming more popular, their patents started expiring so people could copy them and ammo technology improved so more people went to 9mm.
I just got mine and I carry it every day in an Urban carry G3. I used to carry a Sig Sauer p320 m17 bravo with a Wilson combat grip and I needed something smaller. I have decently sized hands but the gun fits me perfectly. I also have the flat faced trigger on mine and a thumb safety and I don't have any optics and don't plan to run any. I have a lot of training to do with mine though. What's your recommendation on how many rounds to put through it to break it in?
Yeah I was planning on getting the 10mm m&p but now I’m definitely getting the new metal one instead. Just don’t know if I should wait around for a while or not. Would really prefer to have it in a 5” version since I prefer longer slides. But i also don’t want to wait around forever if they’re not planning on releasing any different sizes.
Are you going to be using an optic? I'm gonna make a video regarding this topic. For new shooters I'd go to a gun range that rents pistols and try to shoot them both. A lot of times people shoot one gun better than the other for a variety of reasons. Both are solid choices though.
with the optics version the M&P. Trigger much nicer than the Glock. plus no need to replace sights if adding an optic. I owned 2 G19 gen 5 mos . both with overwatch flat faced triggers and the smith is still nicer. plus both have iffy optics plates but the smith is a bterr set up. the optic screws go into slide where the glock has 2 different mounting points. I use the C&H precision plate anyway so no worries on the plastic. never go back to a glock after the smith.
@@leesamuelson Both of the optic plates definitely need improvements, in my opinion. I don't carry an mos Glock because of this reason and just get my slide milled. Have a c&h precision plate coming for the m&p but my plastic plate has been fine after 1.5k rounds. Personally for a defensive trigger I don't mind either one. After stoning and polishing my M&P pulls in the low 3 pound range and my Glock is right under 4 with all oem parts. That's good enough for carry, but for competition use I am a bit of a trigger snob.
Glock might be best first gun because it is BOTH: a completely good gun, by that I just mean every part is good or great. Nothing about it is exceptional nor poor. And also very proven in longevity and reliability. I’m an M&P guy personally, but I think a Glock for a first time gun owner you can’t go wrong. No safety should add up to excellent trigger finger discipline and safety awareness. Forgetting to clean or oil here and there isn’t gunna be detrimental. It eats any ammo, there’s zero to troubleshoot, ever. M&P grip just fits me better, and to be honest, for no reason at all it just excites me a little more than a Glock.
Buyers be WARNED! I have 2 S&Ws 10mm and 9mm. BOTH have snapped the screws off holding the Optic. BOTH snapped them off in the slide. The first 10mm I gave it a pass because it being a 10mm. Then I got a brand new 9mm performance took it out of the box at the gun shop put a Holosun 507c on it and went in the range. Less than 100 rounds and the Optic goes down range just like the other one. I used the plate and screws that came with the guns. I have seen other having the very same problem. Now I have well over a $1,000.00 dollars in 2 new guns with the very same problem. Of course S&W wants me to send the hole gun in not just the slide. I stayed away from S&W for a long time until last year, now I am not sure it was a good idea going back. I have well over 35 handguns most with Optics and have never had this issue with any of them. Seem they are may be going cheap on the Optic screws with a very low grade screw. As stated here the guns are flat shooting and run good but to me this isn't something I like dealing with at all.
Which set of screws did you use that came with the m&p and what did you torque them to? I know that is probably pretty frustrating. I'm up to 1.5k on my m&p now but do plan on getting the c&h plate regardless. Never been a fan of plate systems and always prefer a dedicated optic cut. What do you plan on doing? I would just get the c&h precision plate over going back and forth with s&w.
@@glockknuckle69 I used the screws and plate that came with the gun not the Optic. It was for the Holosun 507 . Don't recall the torque spec. right off. I am a big fan of C&H as I use a lot of their products. Don't care for the plate systems but it's seem to be away they push products now days as they all want their own pattern for every gun for some reason. I understand not all guns are the same but there can be a lot less patterns if they didn't want to push so many Optics. I got lucky on the 10mm and got them out after many hours. The 9mm not so good as the tap broke off on the slide so now it's even worse. The 9mm will be going back to S&W with a nasty gram and question as to why they have not done something as this is a problem many are having. The 10mm I could understand some what, the 9mm not so much.
@@arlissyoung8899 Yeah, I know you said you used screws that came with the gun, but there are six sets of screws that come with it, so I was wondering which set you used and what you torqued it to. You did use a thread locker, right? When it comes to optic screws, the head and throat shape and geometry matter a lot. The wrong type of screws can allow the optic to shift under recoil, then the screws will loosen and allow the optic to move more and put more stress on the screws till they eventually break. If you do reinstall the optic I recommend you get a torque wrench that allows you to measure how much force is applied and carefully apply it even on both screws. When you use thread locker apply it completely over the threads and up the neck. Loctite 243 would even be a better choice because it's thicker and help form a better seal and tighten up the tolerance between the neck of the screw and the optic. Obviously let it cure for 24-48 hrs and then use a paint marker to witness mark and closely watch it. Either way, let us know how it goes with s&w. I know how frustrating it can be when you have an issue like this and hope it goes well. Mine still working fine, but I probably will buy the c&h plate just for peace of mind.
@@glockknuckle69 Yes I have the BIG bottle of Loctite and a Wheeler Fat torque wrench for the inch lbs. I agree about the head shape or the angels can and do very. I tried getting some small 2,3,4 mm ect. from Ace Hardware some time back and could see right off the angel on the head was different and most to big to fit Optics. I size them up to get the most thread contact without causing them to extend into the slide. They come with a touch of Loctite on them but not enough for my liking and always apply some to the factory screws. I have a large number of handguns with Optics and haven't any issue like this with any of them. I have had a few come lose after a long range day. I always check them after a mag or two and then again from time to time. Talking to my friend that I got the guns from at my local gun shop he was checking to see what grade the screws my be on the hardness scale and hasn't found out thing as of yet. He's leaning to maybe a low grade screw supplied by S&W as he was right there when I got the 9mm and used the range only to come back with it. Sadly we where talking about the 10mm problem right before I went out to test it and it failed.
@@arlissyoung8899 He man, sorry I didn't see you replied back. Did you ever figure that out? The screws that come with the C&H precision plate are very high quality and get a lot of thread engagement. That's what I'd recommend. I didn't have any issues with my oem plate or screws but wanted to check out the C&H plate and screws. They're definitely well made and worth the upgrade.
@@glockknuckle69 I actually reinstalled my stock Smith M&P 2.0 trigger, because it has a cleaner break than the aftermarket Apex trigger. I prefer to live with the Smith's over travel than the spongy break of the Apex trigger.
@@glockknuckle69 I used the Apex trigger bar with the Apex springs. I'm not saying the Apex trigger is a bad choice, but I think the stock trigger is a better choice for me.
Need to change your youtube handle, if you have an M&P now. M&P Knuckle 69.......Just saying......great review. I have the older 5in, M&P 2.0 in FDE....very nice. I am in the process of building up to 4in slide, so I am looking around for some modded slides.
Unless you’re going to the range and shooting targets, are optics really necessary for a ccw? It seems like a scam for new shooters to spend more money. I can’t see in the heat of the moment someone focusing on their $350 optic to protect themselves or their family. I would imagine, just point and shoot.
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I’ve carried GLOCK for 20 years… I’ve owned everything… I love S&W
I'd like to see the trigger improvement process. Thanks.
This is my edc ccw. I added the 17 rd mags and Holosun 507c with the c&p aluminum optic plates. Shoots well between 5-25 yards. I highly recommend this gun to others.
Good choice. A new optic plate is one of the next things I'm picking up along with more mags.
Sounds like the perfect set up. I have a Gen 5 Glock 19 mos that I bought 2 years ago. When did these come out?
Consider the full size for the size of your hands. Definitely going to be a better fit. These are among the best pistols available today. This gun is exceedingly better than the PDP.
I have the 4.6 model and it’s been flawless with a variety of different ammo including underwood.
Thanks for posting. Always liked the M&P 2.0 lineup. Solid.
It's great. I'd love to get a full size one day.
Show us how you polished the trigger please !
For sure looking at this pistol.
It's definitely a solid choice and has quickly become one of my favorites
@@glockknuckle69 now I'm wondering if they're gonna release it in the new METAL lineup
@@PrezUSMC Yeah I just saw that release in the full size version. Wondering if they're going to release a compact or if they want to wait and see how it's received first.
Either way a metal version is pretty cool.
the chamber loaded indicator is a state law (Ma.) for the sale of approved handguns. Might be able to obtain a 2nd market replacement barrel out of state.
I know there's a few states out there like that. I'm not saying not to have a loaded chamber indicator, I'm just saying change the one they have if they plan on making all their pistols optics ready.
Do you like that gun companies are updating their flagship handguns almost every year? I welcome it so that brands can be competitive. It seemed like for a little while, every company was copying Glock, just like smaller phone brands copy iPhones. I want everyone to compete and best each other to give us consumers the greatest of their accomplishments.
Yeah competition is always good. Times have definitely changed and now we're spoiled for choice. I got into shootings pistols at a young age and things use to be a lot different. People use to hate Glocks back then way more than they do now and they also hated 9mm too. Most people carried a 1911, a revolver or double/single action pistols. Then Glock started becoming more popular, their patents started expiring so people could copy them and ammo technology improved so more people went to 9mm.
how do you polish it to make the trigger smoother?
I just got mine and I carry it every day in an Urban carry G3. I used to carry a Sig Sauer p320 m17 bravo with a Wilson combat grip and I needed something smaller. I have decently sized hands but the gun fits me perfectly. I also have the flat faced trigger on mine and a thumb safety and I don't have any optics and don't plan to run any. I have a lot of training to do with mine though. What's your recommendation on how many rounds to put through it to break it in?
They just put out a metal one 😳. 😁
Yeah I was planning on getting the 10mm m&p but now I’m definitely getting the new metal one instead.
Just don’t know if I should wait around for a while or not. Would really prefer to have it in a 5” version since I prefer longer slides.
But i also don’t want to wait around forever if they’re not planning on releasing any different sizes.
Cant wait til they start making all these new pistols in .40!
if you had to pick between this and a Gen 5 Glock 19 MOS for a new shooter getting their first gun, which would it be?
Are you going to be using an optic? I'm gonna make a video regarding this topic.
For new shooters I'd go to a gun range that rents pistols and try to shoot them both. A lot of times people shoot one gun better than the other for a variety of reasons. Both are solid choices though.
Glock is probably best first gun
with the optics version the M&P. Trigger much nicer than the Glock. plus no need to replace sights if adding an optic. I owned 2 G19 gen 5 mos . both with overwatch flat faced triggers and the smith is still nicer. plus both have iffy optics plates but the smith is a bterr set up. the optic screws go into slide where the glock has 2 different mounting points. I use the C&H precision plate anyway so no worries on the plastic. never go back to a glock after the smith.
@@leesamuelson Both of the optic plates definitely need improvements, in my opinion. I don't carry an mos Glock because of this reason and just get my slide milled. Have a c&h precision plate coming for the m&p but my plastic plate has been fine after 1.5k rounds. Personally for a defensive trigger I don't mind either one. After stoning and polishing my M&P pulls in the low 3 pound range and my Glock is right under 4 with all oem parts. That's good enough for carry, but for competition use I am a bit of a trigger snob.
Glock might be best first gun because it is BOTH: a completely good gun, by that I just mean every part is good or great. Nothing about it is exceptional nor poor. And also very proven in longevity and reliability. I’m an M&P guy personally, but I think a Glock for a first time gun owner you can’t go wrong. No safety should add up to excellent trigger finger discipline and safety awareness. Forgetting to clean or oil here and there isn’t gunna be detrimental. It eats any ammo, there’s zero to troubleshoot, ever. M&P grip just fits me better, and to be honest, for no reason at all it just excites me a little more than a Glock.
This will be my next EDC gun. Is this the 3.6” or 4.0”??
Nice video bud and a sub here.
Buyers be WARNED! I have 2 S&Ws 10mm and 9mm. BOTH have snapped the screws off holding the Optic. BOTH snapped them off in the slide. The first 10mm I gave it a pass because it being a 10mm. Then I got a brand new 9mm performance took it out of the box at the gun shop put a Holosun 507c on it and went in the range. Less than 100 rounds and the Optic goes down range just like the other one. I used the plate and screws that came with the guns. I have seen other having the very same problem. Now I have well over a $1,000.00 dollars in 2 new guns with the very same problem. Of course S&W wants me to send the hole gun in not just the slide. I stayed away from S&W for a long time until last year, now I am not sure it was a good idea going back. I have well over 35 handguns most with Optics and have never had this issue with any of them. Seem they are may be going cheap on the Optic screws with a very low grade screw. As stated here the guns are flat shooting and run good but to me this isn't something I like dealing with at all.
Which set of screws did you use that came with the m&p and what did you torque them to? I know that is probably pretty frustrating. I'm up to 1.5k on my m&p now but do plan on getting the c&h plate regardless. Never been a fan of plate systems and always prefer a dedicated optic cut. What do you plan on doing? I would just get the c&h precision plate over going back and forth with s&w.
@@glockknuckle69 I used the screws and plate that came with the gun not the Optic. It was for the Holosun 507 . Don't recall the torque spec. right off. I am a big fan of C&H as I use a lot of their products. Don't care for the plate systems but it's seem to be away they push products now days as they all want their own pattern for every gun for some reason. I understand not all guns are the same but there can be a lot less patterns if they didn't want to push so many Optics. I got lucky on the 10mm and got them out after many hours. The 9mm not so good as the tap broke off on the slide so now it's even worse. The 9mm will be going back to S&W with a nasty gram and question as to why they have not done something as this is a problem many are having. The 10mm I could understand some what, the 9mm not so much.
@@arlissyoung8899 Yeah, I know you said you used screws that came with the gun, but there are six sets of screws that come with it, so I was wondering which set you used and what you torqued it to. You did use a thread locker, right? When it comes to optic screws, the head and throat shape and geometry matter a lot. The wrong type of screws can allow the optic to shift under recoil, then the screws will loosen and allow the optic to move more and put more stress on the screws till they eventually break. If you do reinstall the optic I recommend you get a torque wrench that allows you to measure how much force is applied and carefully apply it even on both screws. When you use thread locker apply it completely over the threads and up the neck. Loctite 243 would even be a better choice because it's thicker and help form a better seal and tighten up the tolerance between the neck of the screw and the optic. Obviously let it cure for 24-48 hrs and then use a paint marker to witness mark and closely watch it.
Either way, let us know how it goes with s&w. I know how frustrating it can be when you have an issue like this and hope it goes well. Mine still working fine, but I probably will buy the c&h plate just for peace of mind.
@@glockknuckle69 Yes I have the BIG bottle of Loctite and a Wheeler Fat torque wrench for the inch lbs. I agree about the head shape or the angels can and do very. I tried getting some small 2,3,4 mm ect. from Ace Hardware some time back and could see right off the angel on the head was different and most to big to fit Optics. I size them up to get the most thread contact without causing them to extend into the slide. They come with a touch of Loctite on them but not enough for my liking and always apply some to the factory screws. I have a large number of handguns with Optics and haven't any issue like this with any of them. I have had a few come lose after a long range day. I always check them after a mag or two and then again from time to time. Talking to my friend that I got the guns from at my local gun shop he was checking to see what grade the screws my be on the hardness scale and hasn't found out thing as of yet. He's leaning to maybe a low grade screw supplied by S&W as he was right there when I got the 9mm and used the range only to come back with it. Sadly we where talking about the 10mm problem right before I went out to test it and it failed.
@@arlissyoung8899 He man, sorry I didn't see you replied back. Did you ever figure that out? The screws that come with the C&H precision plate are very high quality and get a lot of thread engagement. That's what I'd recommend. I didn't have any issues with my oem plate or screws but wanted to check out the C&H plate and screws. They're definitely well made and worth the upgrade.
Seems like the new trigger has the same long overtravel that I hate about the old hinged trigger.
It does have a little bit of over travel, but it isn't too bad.
@@glockknuckle69 I actually reinstalled my stock Smith M&P 2.0 trigger, because
it has a cleaner break than the aftermarket Apex trigger. I prefer to live with the Smith's over travel than
the spongy break of the Apex trigger.
@@o-g-ob4399 Did you only have the trigger shoe installed or did you also have some of the apex springs?
@@glockknuckle69 I used the Apex trigger bar with the Apex springs. I'm not saying the Apex trigger is a bad choice, but I think the stock trigger is a better choice for me.
Need to change your youtube handle, if you have an M&P now. M&P Knuckle 69.......Just saying......great review. I have the older 5in, M&P 2.0 in FDE....very nice. I am in the process of building up to 4in slide, so I am looking around for some modded slides.
Anyone find a quality holster for this setup?
Put a bigger light on thing!
Trigger like the shield plus?
Yes just like it
Unless you’re going to the range and shooting targets, are optics really necessary for a ccw?
It seems like a scam for new shooters to spend more money. I can’t see in the heat of the moment someone focusing on their $350 optic to protect themselves or their family. I would imagine, just point and shoot.
Can you use Shield Plus magazines with this pistol?
Anyone have a link for an optics plate? I have the exact same pistol and wanted a metal one. Any companies to recommend?
We can't post links on youtube unfortunately. I do have a video about the C&H precision optic plate which is the one I use.
That setup is around $1, 350 MSRP
How much did you pay for this setup
Not sure where you are looking but I just picked up mine on sale for 600 out the door and it came with the crimson trace 1550 red dot
Surefire flashlight and trijicon RMR
MSRP price for them two items around $700
MSRP price for the gun it's around $550
Is that a full size or compact????
This is the compact size with the 4 inch barrel.
I love Smith and Wesson but the reset is trash. Cz, PDP, Canik have better triggers.
Bro take that damn light off the front of the gun so we can see the gun you can put that BS back on after the review smh…