Finally found a video on how that shows the desoldering of the exact one I need to remove, working on repairing an old Claw machine motherboard and the battery does not stay charged when the machine is off so I bought a newer version of it and I’m planning on soldering it on. It’s going to be my first time soldering so this gave me confidence to be able to do it myself.
Glad I could help, If you have never soldered anything before I might suggest testing your method on some bits of scrap/wires etc.. The process is not difficult however, the danger is applying too much heat which can cause the copper pcb traces to burn up. (which is not desirable)
1000x times easier is just use the "ext bat" port that usually is a 4 pin connector nearby and use a cell battery and stick it somewhere nearby with some velcro
You mean something like this? ruclips.net/video/WGEP9cRuCmY/видео.htmlsi=geoXS6qO-7J8ZeZX&t=311 It is a no brainier that an external battery is the way to go. That is the reason why motherboard makers included those headers as they knew the battery would eventually go dead and wanted to give consumers a way to continue to use their systems. The section of the video I shared shows how I converted an alarm system battery for use in a retro PC, of course simple AA batteries could work or even an external CR2032 would do the same. Either way, thanks for watching and leaving a comment. Truth be told, this was a pretty old video and something I wanted to try out. Given the chance, I would even do the mod again because I can.
Nice job. I have several old 486 MBs that were recovered by my father. They're a rarity nowadays (at least where i am they're either overpriced or badly damaged). What kind of diode do i need to buy? (the specifics to find it online). I remember a while back there was someone online specified the diode but i don't remember the code.
Schottky diode, I bough a grip of them off Amazon for like 5 bux USD. amzn.to/3xeFdjk The small black ones seemed to work the best with the least amount of voltage drop. The red/black ones are more efficient but didn't block the reverse voltage all that well. For the effort I am now a big fan of using external batteries like what I built for the Classic Case build. Less effort and seem to work just as well.
@@Hardwareasylum So it was one of the Schottky diodes, the 1N5819? On the motherboard i've been working on i've located the charging circuit and removing the resistor should nullify the voltage to the battery. For safety i will use a diode to protect the battery but i must be sure of the type of diode to use. I don't want any reverse voltage to make the battery explode.
I believe that is the one. Something I don't think I included in the video is that you can test the diode leakage by simply connecting it to a battery and measuring the voltage with your meter.
Yep, that shouldn't be a problem. You would just exclude the diode in the repair, There is no provision to "stop" charging once the battery is full so, that could cause a problem or, might be just fine. Never tried but, based on my google results to your question the technology appears to be solid.
Finally found a video on how that shows the desoldering of the exact one I need to remove, working on repairing an old Claw machine motherboard and the battery does not stay charged when the machine is off so I bought a newer version of it and I’m planning on soldering it on. It’s going to be my first time soldering so this gave me confidence to be able to do it myself.
Glad I could help, If you have never soldered anything before I might suggest testing your method on some bits of scrap/wires etc.. The process is not difficult however, the danger is applying too much heat which can cause the copper pcb traces to burn up. (which is not desirable)
@@Hardwareasylum hmm yea I got a old motherboard I could test on thanks for the tip
Great video very helpful
Thanks for watching! Some of these older videos I'd like to re-do, one of those "what I know now etc.."
1000x times easier is just use the "ext bat" port that usually is a 4 pin connector nearby and use a cell battery and stick it somewhere nearby with some velcro
You mean something like this? ruclips.net/video/WGEP9cRuCmY/видео.htmlsi=geoXS6qO-7J8ZeZX&t=311 It is a no brainier that an external battery is the way to go. That is the reason why motherboard makers included those headers as they knew the battery would eventually go dead and wanted to give consumers a way to continue to use their systems.
The section of the video I shared shows how I converted an alarm system battery for use in a retro PC, of course simple AA batteries could work or even an external CR2032 would do the same. Either way, thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
Truth be told, this was a pretty old video and something I wanted to try out. Given the chance, I would even do the mod again because I can.
Nice job.
I have several old 486 MBs that were recovered by my father.
They're a rarity nowadays (at least where i am they're either overpriced or badly damaged).
What kind of diode do i need to buy? (the specifics to find it online).
I remember a while back there was someone online specified the diode but i don't remember the code.
Schottky diode, I bough a grip of them off Amazon for like 5 bux USD. amzn.to/3xeFdjk
The small black ones seemed to work the best with the least amount of voltage drop. The red/black ones are more efficient but didn't block the reverse voltage all that well.
For the effort I am now a big fan of using external batteries like what I built for the Classic Case build. Less effort and seem to work just as well.
@@Hardwareasylum So it was one of the Schottky diodes, the 1N5819?
On the motherboard i've been working on i've located the charging circuit and removing the resistor should nullify the voltage to the battery.
For safety i will use a diode to protect the battery but i must be sure of the type of diode to use.
I don't want any reverse voltage to make the battery explode.
I believe that is the one. Something I don't think I included in the video is that you can test the diode leakage by simply connecting it to a battery and measuring the voltage with your meter.
I thought that there was a pin setting to set for Varta battery or external battery beside where you pulled out the battery.
Would it be possible to use a rechargable battery? Like the ML2032.
Yep, that shouldn't be a problem. You would just exclude the diode in the repair, There is no provision to "stop" charging once the battery is full so, that could cause a problem or, might be just fine. Never tried but, based on my google results to your question the technology appears to be solid.
Save that radio shack soldering iron!
Good eye!