4:00 wow.. great contend the honesty an realism... i love this channel... no commercial BS, glitz and glam but authentic moments like this.... witch i can relate to
I thumbed up for the genuine Austrian swearing. :) It's a good idea to always check those evil tantalum capacitors, and replace them if needed before powering up any vintage motherboard. You've been lucky with the battery leak, as it didn't start to eat into the tracks. I've seen much worse corrosion.
Amazing the space the memory alone takes up on the board. I had one of these back in the day and now that I see it compared to what we work with today. its just insane how far we have come.
You wont get any complaints from me washing the boards. I do the exact same thing and I have done more boards then I can remember now. Soap and water under the sink then i blow it of with compressed air. The reason for using compressed air is that I get water stains otherwise, plus it drys faster and its nice to get the water out from under any solder on chips, out of sockets and slots. Then I dry it at about 50-60C in the oven, 1h minimum from my testing equals dry. I find that the battery often corrodes one or more of the traces to the keyboard connector, so very common that one has to do trace repairs, did that on a 386 board for a friend recently and it was an internal trace so probably corroded VIA. The worst I had to deal with I had to remove a NOT hex gate and socket it after doing trace repairs under it plus the chip next to it for the keyboard ans such I also had to trace repair and solder a new socket to plus it had corroded off traces to a ram buffer chip, was a Bison III socket 4 board wit heavy corrosion damage, got it working eventually. And with a lot of soldering and repairs its nice to clean any flux of, some flux can cause havoc in signal integrity if not cleaned off, plus washing the board just makes it look new like you showed. People are usually suspicions to water on electronics but its mostly fine as long as its dry when powered on again.
If you have a vacuum chamber, it's also good to dry off boards, just take off the batteries and other stuff like that before putting it in (don't ask me how I found out that some electrolytic capacitors can't be put in a vacuum)
I love these kind of classic PC repair videos! Also from that region, I watch Jan Beta in Germany repair Commodores and Amigas! Both are great technicians!!
4 года назад+3
I have one board 286 25Mhz, and 287. Baby board very good, 4MB ram, 5 slots ISA 16 and 2 ISA 8. Drive 1.2 and 1,44, video ISA Cirrus Logic 1MB, Soundblaster, hdd in slot isa ( 20Mb) ide controler UMC, modem USR 14.400, Dos, Windows 3.1, many games, old VGA color monitor. AMAZING!
My very first PC, a 286 we bought at Karstadt in Hamburg (I believe it may have been the one in the Einkaufzentrum Hamburger Straße around 1990), may have also been an AMD processor, but it was 16 MHz. It did come with issues with the real time clock though (in hinsight, possibly a Dallas RTC). I have the faint hope of one day being able to replicate that setup. The specs were: 286 with 16 MHz, 1 MB RAM, Trident TVGA 512k VGA adapter, 40 MB harddrive, 5.25" 1.2 MB floppy (drive A) and 1.44 MB 3.5" floppy (drive B). I would however upgrade it with a 287 math copro, up the RAM to 2 MB, ditch the Varta battery and replace it with a standard CR 2032 coin cell, and change the harddrive with an SD or CF to IDE adapter, or even find a SCSI solution.
I still have a box of 10 287 xl's all new in the box, picked them up for $5 each in the early 90s when a local store was closing down, maybe get around to using them someday.
Hallo Peter! Herzliche Grüße aus der Steiermark (Lannach). Sehr gutes Video! Sehr angenehme Stimme! Und Deine Reparatur: Fantastisch! Du machst mir Mut einige alte Mainboards zu reparieren, die bei mir auf Lager liegen. Und ich glaube Du hast mich gerade mit den Abonnenten überholt (ich hab 6000). LG, Max
Hi Max, vielen Dank! Und sehr cool dass jemand aus meiner Nähe auch mal auf meinen Kanal findet. Hab auch sofort ein Abo auf deinem Kanal gelassen. Dein Inhalt schaut auch sehr interessant aus und freu mich schon da durch zu schmökern. Viele liebe Grüße aus Kärnten. Peter
@@CPUGalaxy Kärnten! Das ist ja genial. Freue mich sehr über Deine Rückmeldung. Und vielleicht sieht man sich mal. Ich habe ein großes Lager mit 300m², gleich neben dem Autobahnkreuz Graz-West. Zwischen A2 und A9. Bei meinen Videos findest du unter anderem einen Toshiba T200. Und einen analogen Telefunken-Computer, den ich erst noch genauer filmen muss. Ansonsten beschäftige ich mich mit HiFi und Elektronenröhren, und ich zeige das Innenleben von spannender Elektronik. LG, Max
Great machine! Nice to see the top end 286 parts. And that Tseng ET400AX is the dream for an ISA PC. Only thing I would have done differently is a button cell battery, looks like there's room for one on the board. I get that you want to keep it original, but we're also archiving these components for the future, I think it's unnecessary to risk future damage just for originality. Some sacrifices must be OK to make to ensure that the parts keep working.
Have been watching a lot of videos but here I will finally comment. Great content you create there, one can even learn a lot about restoring, setting up and tweaking old hardware. I also came across an exploding Tantal in a keyboard once, I can smell it when I see it. Greeetz, gert
Mahlzeit:) Bin von Dave hier. Subscribed. Eine Anmerkung: Diese Methode ... den Tantal-Elektrolyt-Kondensator platzen zu lassen nennt man in der Instandhaltung die "Todesstrafe" oder die Erlkönig Methode: Der Elektroniker lebt ... das Kind, der Patient, das Reparaturobjekt ist tot! :))) Hat in diesem Fall in extremer Geschwindigkeit dazu geführt die Fehlerursache zu finden. Sind zwei Fehlerquellen persistent oder fluktuierend ist diese Methode nicht Zielführend. Was unseren kapazitiven Freund aus sich herausgehen ließ passiert übrigens auch auf dem ganzen Strompfad. Mit den Layern der Platine, Lötverbindungen und z.B. Steckverbindungen. Das muss nicht, aber kann langfristige und intermittierende Störquellen induzieren, die in erster Linie absolut unnötig sind und vermeidbar waren. Ein Restaurator von Kunstwerken verwendet eine Riesengeduld und fast comichafte Methoden um zu vermeiden etwas zu beschädigen. Dies würde auch dem Auftrag der Restauration zuwider laufen. Mit Retro-Hardware ist es ähnlich und deswegen mein Vorschlag: Jeder ordentliche Elektroniker benutzt zur Fehlersuche ein Netzteil mit Strombegrenzung. Damit meine ich nicht die Kurzschluss/Überlast-Sicherung vom AT-Netzteil, auch so eine "Todesstrafe":) Das soll kein Vorwurf oder Belehrung sein. Mir tun einfach die Komponenten leid;) Ich hätte das hier auch nicht geschrieben, wenn ich vorher das MFM-Festplatten Video nicht gesehen hätte. Auch großes Glück! Die Restaurierung ist auf jeden Fall schön geworden. Danke für das tolle Video:)
id be worried that there was still battery acid under the socket, might have been worth replacing completely with a new one. I would have also considered a complete recapping. Nice to see old hardware running again, thanks for sharing.
What happens during the leakage (there is material leaking from the battery) is actually somewhat convoluted. It's not like a liquid seeps out and starts crawling over the board - it's actually leaking particles through the air and they are electrostatically attracted to exposed metal on the board. The battery is doing its battery thing of moving chemicals around to complete one leg of an electric circuit, except once the seal goes bad it can happen through the air instead of the internal electrolyte. Very, very slowly. In principle if there was a fan aimed over the board, it would never corrode like this even as the battery fails, because the emitted chemicals would be blown away before they can be drawn to the board metal acting as an unintended battery terminal.
I don't know about where you are CPU Galaxy, but in Australia, something going boom and a person cursing in there native tongue, is funny to most people. This video is comedy gold.
Very nice board, luckily the corrosion was on the surface only, no eaten traces, not even flaky soldermask. I'm all for keeping things original, but for me the board-killing batteries aren't going anywhere near a restored motherboard. Fully agree with washing the boards in the sink, I have a full range of substances that I'm using , from dish soap to brake/carburetor cleaner, depending on the degree of filth :)
@Mr Guru I also played that for a bit, but my father had a 33MHz computer running Windows 3.1 and had acquired Winter Games. It was only later when i got a 66MHz computer running Windows 3.11 that i got to have a say in which games i wanted to run. I Did not have Winter Games on my computer, but rather had Test Drive and Chicago 90 and Slicks'n'slide
I have a 386 board with battery barf that has messed up the board a bit. Battery replaced but it no longer is charging nor keeping date/time. Damn I wish schematics were available. As for those Tantalum caps, I recently turned on a 2-way radio portable repeater and of course the magic smoke erupted from one of the caps on the final amp. I plan on shotgunning all of the tantalum’s as soon as I can get an order in for a bunch of caps for various projects either Mauser or Digi Key will be receiving a large order. As for my board I chose to remotely hang the battery to prevent another round of corrosion. Back in the eighties we used to use R12 refrigerant to blast everything off of our boards.
I did a 286 board the other day. 4 of those bastards exploded and yea they EXPLODED like small fire works. You might ask then why did you not check for shorts, well I did kind off. I did not expect 4 to blow but maybe 1, and in the end I expect them all to blow. The thing was that even if I removed a bunch of them there was never a full short, there is always continuity between gnd and +5V with most old boards, your have components that do draw current from the +5V rail that is soldered to the board. In this case about 18ohm resistance or 1.4W @ 5V if my math is right. I removed about 20 or so of them intact after the first two blew and a lot of them where removed before the last one exploded to but none of the once I tested after removing had any indication of a short as long as they where not powered. So at least in my case it seems that the short is not measurable because it will happen WHEN enough voltage is applied and or current flow to or from the capacitors. Thats the reason I removed all of them in the end and replaced them with modern electrolytic because after 4 exploding and not finding a single one shorted after being de-soldered I figured they where all ticking time bombs. They where all of the same size and model, there where other models on this board to but none of those had an issue. The board is now fixed, new electrolytic caps instead, 2032 modded with charging diode removed, some corrosion cleanup etc. Boots from floppy and disk now. But yea I would replace all tantalum capacitors just in case on my boards just because there ticking time bombs and if your unlucky they will roast a trace on the PCB and then you have to repair that to. I ended up using the same value Electrolytic of high quality, both have polarity and the later one usually dont explode and usually fails open rather then short. But in the end one might not be able to measure a short, at least with the once I had to deal with there where low resistant at best, 9-10 ohm and when all removed it was about 18ohm but that was just one of the 4 exploding being "a slow burner" and it went of late. Anyways If I do a board for myself I'm gonna remove them all because now Im afraid if explosions XD
I think you're right to replace them once you get a few failures on a board. What's weird with tantalums is there seems to be big differences between different manufacturers and maybe even different batches. The ones that survive well en masse tend to continue to survive well. I've purchased a bunch of Sanyo MBC-55x 8088 machines and they're pretty heavy on tantalums. Never had one explode. Interestingly, one is always installed backwards from the factory, but instead of a power rail, it's used in a low current/low voltage timing circuit. Unfortunately after 20+ years that backwards one has a tendency to leak electrically and if the timer won't fire the disk drives won't operate. Simply turning the "bad" capacitor around so it's the right way fixes the problem on these. I've seen some mention of self healing properties on tantalums but was still a little surprised to see it happen, though admittedly this is a fairly contrived abuse pattern that caused the damage.
Oh, a very nice board! I have 2 ceramic 286 boards on my repair pile too so I can't yet test my ceramic 286 CPUs. You know what happened when I tried them? I remember that at least one of them worked for a few hours but I'm absolutely sure that both got there with exploding tantalum caps by the power connector. How surprising :D
Wow! Ich versuche mich auch gerade an der Restauration eines 286er Boards. Wenn ich dieses Video sehe war ich bisher wohl viel zu vorsichtig. Unverdünnter Essig in rauen Mengen, Wasserhahn und Backofen wären mir nicht in den Sinn gekommen!
:D De depperten Kondensatoren imma! Schaaaß! :D +1 Like from bavaria! That's the reason why I always replace EVERY tantalum cap before switching on those old boards- there's always a good chance, that they explode- and I'm VEEEEERY scared, so I try to avoid those situations. If I want to know, if a board works without replacing, I switch it on while I'm not in the same room. :D
For my 386/40 I was looking for a good graphics card. A dealer friend gave me a bunch of graphics cards to test. In the end I chose one from Oak, which was by far the fastest. If you ever get bored, maybe you can compare some ISA graphics cards? Benchmarks were rather uncommon back then, "performance" was rather measured in color depth.
You don't happen to have a 100 MHz crystal floating around and could test if a 386/40 will work at 50 MHz? I had already bought a (super expensive) crystal back in these times, but never used it. Okay, overclocking was really a nerd topic back then. BTW: My brother already overclocked his CPC 464 to six megahertz. That was pretty pointless, because many programs had timing problems afterwards.
The batteries used in modern PC-s are CR2032 batteries, and those don't leak. These old motherboards can be modded to use those newer, better batteries. Not all old motherboards have this time bomb thow. I saw multiple 386 boards with CR2032's, and there might be some late 286 ones as well.
Have you ever heard of a computer manufacturer named, Eastern Digital? I could not find anything on Google and have a nice tower built by Eastern Digital with a motherboard that needs repair! I think this piece is extremely rare.
@@CPUGalaxy Not sure, but I can take a picture and send it to your email, I'm very intrigued by this piece, because I've seen and heard absolutely nothing about it, but the tower itself is really nice.
I have repaired circuit boards with corrosion before though not computer motherboards. To help to keep the corrosion from coming back, I would just spritz the repair area with clear lacquer. Just sayin' Mike
Ich hab hier immer noch diesen riesigen NCR PC8 286er da stehen und trau mich nicht, da Strom drauf zu geben... In Deinem Video sieht man, warum. Der hat Vollausstattung, 2 fette RLL Platten drin. Wahrscheinlich 8 oder 12Mhz, nicht sicher... aber demnächst trau ich mich mal. www.old-computers.com/museum/computer.asp?st=1&c=541
Nimh cells are good if the device is in regular use, while self discharge is slow these are under a small load, a low charge will see the battery electrodes eat themselves, leakage then follows.
11:26 - я заменяю эти гацкие танталы на обычные электролиты. Да, они сохнут и т.д., но их хотя бы не пробивает статикой в КЗ с последующим фейерверком.
Moin, habe mir dieses Video gegönnt, da ich selbst am restaurieren sind. Hast du zufällig auch etwas in Richtung AMD K6 - 2 450AFX? Habe einen mit 450mhz gestanzt auf das Jahr 1998 und etwas gelesen das es da wohl auch Raritäten gibt. Würde mich interessieren ob du du da etwas mehr weißt. PS das Board funktioniert einwandfrei nachdem ich es nach deinen Methoden gereinigt habe. Bist gold wert mit deiner Arbeit. LG
vielen dank. das freut mich. Ja, beim AMD K6 gibts Raritäten. Und zwar K6-3 und K6-3+. sind relativ selten und sau schnell weil L2 Cache in der CPU includiert ist.
Tantalum capacitors don't like over -voltage conditions and when they are pushed they do like to explode. Perhaps you ought to invest in a rheostat to bring the power up slowly.
The Bill Gates 640 Legend! --- 640k was enough given the architecture of the original 1981 IBM PC, in which this statement has its context and sense. Since, its been repeated to appear Gates had a lack of foresight (despite dominating the software industry later!) Later in his career Gates responded to a student who inquired about it: "I've said some stupid things and some wrong things, but not that. No one involved in computers would ever say that a certain amount of memory is enough for all time." ... the legend lives on today!
Hey wait! Why was this tantalum soldered in the wrong way? And how could you film the explosion on a different angle? Was there a second camera installed? ;)
I hob so lochn miassn! Genau dos Sölbe is ma vur a poor Wochn passiert, wo i mein 386er noch 20+ Johr wieda amol außagekramt hob - "ach, scholt ma ein, schauma anfoch, wos passiet!" - TUSCH - "JO SO A SCHAAß!" :D Und dos Problem mit de Tonnen-Akkus, dos uns sowieso olle plogt, hobt i anfoch oba doch elegant mit am Lir2032 gelöst :)
Geht mir gonz genau so! :) Blöde Froge - und blöden Frogen gebührt ka Ontwurt, es sei denn, de is noch teppata als de Froge sölba :D Wo konn ma di denn verorten? Fia mi hurchast di ziemlich kärntnerisch on...
No do hob i jo guat grotn. I bin per Kommissar zufoll auf dein Videos gstoßn, schon beim ersten, wos i ma ongschaut hob, wor ma klor - dei Englisch hot an österreichischen Einschlog 😀. Seit diesem Video wor i ma bezüglich Bundeslond relativ sicher... I? I bin gor nit so weit entfernt, 40 km östlich - St. Veit.
Bill Gates (and some other Microsoft employees) stated he never said that with the 640kb. It was most likely a decision about the mainboard layout of one the first IBM PCs which created that 640kb-limit.
If a few of them go, maybe it's worthwhile. Not all tantalums are created equal, but generally if they don't explode they continue to perform perfectly. Aluminum electrolytics have a lot more performance variation as they age, and I'd be much more suspicious of them if there is a stability problem. I'd be hesitant to change out something with solid characteristics but perhaps a little explody once in a while for stuff that's harder to determine the operational condition of.
Guessing it's probably for the +12V or -12V rail and nothing really needs those to be that stable. It may keep some noise away from sound cards if they use the 12V for the output amp but otherwise it's unlikely to be noticed. If it's for the 5V rail, undoubtedly there are many others on the board to pick up the slack.
If there's ever an appropriate time to swear, it's when stuff blows up. :-)
Wildly underrated channel, a true vintage hardware enthusiast.
Austrian cursing = instant like! I jumped when it happened
Schaß 🤣
😂
It scared me so much when it lit up
me as well 😅
It's still German, but with a local and entertaining twist. ;) Unlike us Germans from up north in Hamburg... :S
4:00 wow.. great contend the honesty an realism... i love this channel... no commercial BS, glitz and glam but authentic moments like this.... witch i can relate to
thank you 🙏🏻
I thumbed up for the genuine Austrian swearing. :) It's a good idea to always check those evil tantalum capacitors, and replace them if needed before powering up any vintage motherboard. You've been lucky with the battery leak, as it didn't start to eat into the tracks. I've seen much worse corrosion.
Amazing the space the memory alone takes up on the board. I had one of these back in the day and now that I see it compared to what we work with today. its just insane how far we have come.
yeah, thats indeed true!
An exciting start and a happy ending. Glad to see that you will be able to continue to enjoy this old board.
Fine work Sir!
I often throw parts through the dishwasher, when the wife's not looking, obviously!
haha, same here. Boards, cases, keyboards... the dishwasher is my best friend against extremely dirt. 😄
Explosive episode! I quite enjoyed it, thank you.
You wont get any complaints from me washing the boards. I do the exact same thing and I have done more boards then I can remember now.
Soap and water under the sink then i blow it of with compressed air.
The reason for using compressed air is that I get water stains otherwise, plus it drys faster and its nice to get the water out from under any solder on chips, out of sockets and slots.
Then I dry it at about 50-60C in the oven, 1h minimum from my testing equals dry.
I find that the battery often corrodes one or more of the traces to the keyboard connector, so very common that one has to do trace repairs, did that on a 386 board for a friend recently and it was an internal trace so probably corroded VIA.
The worst I had to deal with I had to remove a NOT hex gate and socket it after doing trace repairs under it plus the chip next to it for the keyboard ans such I also had to trace repair and solder a new socket to plus it had corroded off traces to a ram buffer chip, was a Bison III socket 4 board wit heavy corrosion damage, got it working eventually.
And with a lot of soldering and repairs its nice to clean any flux of, some flux can cause havoc in signal integrity if not cleaned off, plus washing the board just makes it look new like you showed.
People are usually suspicions to water on electronics but its mostly fine as long as its dry when powered on again.
If you have a vacuum chamber, it's also good to dry off boards, just take off the batteries and other stuff like that before putting it in (don't ask me how I found out that some electrolytic capacitors can't be put in a vacuum)
If you have access to a dishwasher it also works Depending on grime level a toothbrush and water may get it cleaner tho.
yeah. If my wife is not at home I use rhe dishwasher as well 🤣
Rinsing with distilled water before drying should also help.
I love these kind of classic PC repair videos! Also from that region, I watch Jan Beta in Germany repair Commodores and Amigas! Both are great technicians!!
I have one board 286 25Mhz, and 287. Baby board very good, 4MB ram, 5 slots ISA 16 and 2 ISA 8. Drive 1.2 and 1,44, video ISA Cirrus Logic 1MB, Soundblaster, hdd in slot isa ( 20Mb) ide controler UMC, modem USR 14.400, Dos, Windows 3.1, many games, old VGA color monitor. AMAZING!
seems to be a great setup. I am searching for long time already after a 25 MHz 286.
@@CPUGalaxy Is very rare to find! Try in MERCADOLIVRE Brasil always have found. And in BRASIL 01 dollar is 6 reais. Very good bussines to you
My very first PC, a 286 we bought at Karstadt in Hamburg (I believe it may have been the one in the Einkaufzentrum Hamburger Straße around 1990), may have also been an AMD processor, but it was 16 MHz. It did come with issues with the real time clock though (in hinsight, possibly a Dallas RTC). I have the faint hope of one day being able to replicate that setup. The specs were: 286 with 16 MHz, 1 MB RAM, Trident TVGA 512k VGA adapter, 40 MB harddrive, 5.25" 1.2 MB floppy (drive A) and 1.44 MB 3.5" floppy (drive B). I would however upgrade it with a 287 math copro, up the RAM to 2 MB, ditch the Varta battery and replace it with a standard CR 2032 coin cell, and change the harddrive with an SD or CF to IDE adapter, or even find a SCSI solution.
I still have a box of 10 287 xl's all new in the box, picked them up for $5 each in the early 90s when a local store was closing down, maybe get around to using them someday.
I would need 2 😉
I have a 286 setup I'm trying to restore as well. Wonderful machines. I can only hope mine turns out so well.
Hallo Peter! Herzliche Grüße aus der Steiermark (Lannach). Sehr gutes Video! Sehr angenehme Stimme! Und Deine Reparatur: Fantastisch! Du machst mir Mut einige alte Mainboards zu reparieren, die bei mir auf Lager liegen. Und ich glaube Du hast mich gerade mit den Abonnenten überholt (ich hab 6000). LG, Max
Hi Max, vielen Dank! Und sehr cool dass jemand aus meiner Nähe auch mal auf meinen Kanal findet. Hab auch sofort ein Abo auf deinem Kanal gelassen. Dein Inhalt schaut auch sehr interessant aus und freu mich schon da durch zu schmökern. Viele liebe Grüße aus Kärnten. Peter
@@CPUGalaxy Kärnten! Das ist ja genial. Freue mich sehr über Deine Rückmeldung. Und vielleicht sieht man sich mal. Ich habe ein großes Lager mit 300m², gleich neben dem Autobahnkreuz Graz-West. Zwischen A2 und A9. Bei meinen Videos findest du unter anderem einen Toshiba T200. Und einen analogen Telefunken-Computer, den ich erst noch genauer filmen muss. Ansonsten beschäftige ich mich mit HiFi und Elektronenröhren, und ich zeige das Innenleben von spannender Elektronik. LG, Max
Great machine! Nice to see the top end 286 parts. And that Tseng ET400AX is the dream for an ISA PC. Only thing I would have done differently is a button cell battery, looks like there's room for one on the board. I get that you want to keep it original, but we're also archiving these components for the future, I think it's unnecessary to risk future damage just for originality. Some sacrifices must be OK to make to ensure that the parts keep working.
Beautiful repair. Gives me hope that some of my old hardware may live again. Thanks
Its fascinating that technology has evolved soo much
I wonder how did one come up with such an idea of creating a cpu
That looks like a Chaintech logo on the motherboard! Didn't know they were that old!
This was so great! Really good info and great job on the restoration!
Have been watching a lot of videos but here I will finally comment. Great content you create there, one can even learn a lot about restoring, setting up and tweaking old hardware. I also came across an exploding Tantal in a keyboard once, I can smell it when I see it. Greeetz, gert
That exploding capacitor shocked me to hell!
And I like that vinegar. Especially the german text on it :D
Mahlzeit:) Bin von Dave hier. Subscribed.
Eine Anmerkung: Diese Methode ... den Tantal-Elektrolyt-Kondensator platzen zu lassen nennt man in der Instandhaltung die "Todesstrafe" oder die Erlkönig Methode: Der Elektroniker lebt ... das Kind, der Patient, das Reparaturobjekt ist tot! :)))
Hat in diesem Fall in extremer Geschwindigkeit dazu geführt die Fehlerursache zu finden. Sind zwei Fehlerquellen persistent oder fluktuierend ist diese Methode nicht Zielführend. Was unseren kapazitiven Freund aus sich herausgehen ließ passiert übrigens auch auf dem ganzen Strompfad. Mit den Layern der Platine, Lötverbindungen und z.B. Steckverbindungen.
Das muss nicht, aber kann langfristige und intermittierende Störquellen induzieren, die in erster Linie absolut unnötig sind und vermeidbar waren. Ein Restaurator von Kunstwerken verwendet eine Riesengeduld und fast comichafte Methoden um zu vermeiden etwas zu beschädigen. Dies würde auch dem Auftrag der Restauration zuwider laufen.
Mit Retro-Hardware ist es ähnlich und deswegen mein Vorschlag: Jeder ordentliche Elektroniker benutzt zur Fehlersuche ein Netzteil mit Strombegrenzung. Damit meine ich nicht die Kurzschluss/Überlast-Sicherung vom AT-Netzteil, auch so eine "Todesstrafe":)
Das soll kein Vorwurf oder Belehrung sein. Mir tun einfach die Komponenten leid;) Ich hätte das hier auch nicht geschrieben, wenn ich vorher das MFM-Festplatten Video nicht gesehen hätte. Auch großes Glück!
Die Restaurierung ist auf jeden Fall schön geworden. Danke für das tolle Video:)
lol, das nenn ich mal einen anständigen Kommentar. Direkt ein wenig poetisch ☺️. Du hast natürlich vollkommen recht.
id be worried that there was still battery acid under the socket, might have been worth replacing completely with a new one. I would have also considered a complete recapping.
Nice to see old hardware running again, thanks for sharing.
What happens during the leakage (there is material leaking from the battery) is actually somewhat convoluted. It's not like a liquid seeps out and starts crawling over the board - it's actually leaking particles through the air and they are electrostatically attracted to exposed metal on the board. The battery is doing its battery thing of moving chemicals around to complete one leg of an electric circuit, except once the seal goes bad it can happen through the air instead of the internal electrolyte. Very, very slowly.
In principle if there was a fan aimed over the board, it would never corrode like this even as the battery fails, because the emitted chemicals would be blown away before they can be drawn to the board metal acting as an unintended battery terminal.
I don't know about where you are CPU Galaxy, but in Australia, something going boom and a person cursing in there native tongue, is funny to most people.
This video is comedy gold.
In that video I make on the beginning clear frim which country I am 😅😉 ruclips.net/video/qaGQxZEYby0/видео.html
Finally I found worthy good video - with explosions!
Wow, haven't seen Moto GP in almost 30 years. I remember being blown away by it back in the day, having seen only the ZX81 and the 2600 before it.
Crap on TV and Dave Jones EEVBLOG showed a microscope video of you and your CPU'S leading me here and it made my Christmas.
Very nice board, luckily the corrosion was on the surface only, no eaten traces, not even flaky soldermask. I'm all for keeping things original, but for me the board-killing batteries aren't going anywhere near a restored motherboard. Fully agree with washing the boards in the sink, I have a full range of substances that I'm using , from dish soap to brake/carburetor cleaner, depending on the degree of filth :)
Very nice amazing and nice cleaning the board looks amazing!!!
What an effort! I am surprised 286 runs PoP smoothly. In actualy, i am always suprizing in this channel.
Really enjoyed this video! Thank you for another fine video friend! 😀😀👍👍
I knew I had seen that Accolade before but could not place it. So when you showed winter games that was the moment. i haven't seen that in 25 years :D
@Mr Guru I also played that for a bit, but my father had a 33MHz computer running Windows 3.1 and had acquired Winter Games. It was only later when i got a 66MHz computer running Windows 3.11 that i got to have a say in which games i wanted to run.
I Did not have Winter Games on my computer, but rather had Test Drive and Chicago 90 and Slicks'n'slide
Chaintech's 286 motherboard. Never had one in my hands or forgot it already.
I have a 386 board with battery barf that has messed up the board a bit. Battery replaced but it no longer is charging nor keeping date/time. Damn I wish schematics were available. As for those Tantalum caps, I recently turned on a 2-way radio portable repeater and of course the magic smoke erupted from one of the caps on the final amp. I plan on shotgunning all of the tantalum’s as soon as I can get an order in for a bunch of caps for various projects either Mauser or Digi Key will be receiving a large order. As for my board I chose to remotely hang the battery to prevent another round of corrosion. Back in the eighties we used to use R12 refrigerant to blast everything off of our boards.
The 286 was such a hot mess with its 24bit protected mode.
Sehr interessant. Ich verwende die gleiche Essigesenz von Surig. :-)
😅👍
Always the tantalum drop caps ! lol
I did a 286 board the other day.
4 of those bastards exploded and yea they EXPLODED like small fire works.
You might ask then why did you not check for shorts, well I did kind off.
I did not expect 4 to blow but maybe 1, and in the end I expect them all to blow.
The thing was that even if I removed a bunch of them there was never a full short, there is always continuity between gnd and +5V with most old boards, your have components that do draw current from the +5V rail that is soldered to the board.
In this case about 18ohm resistance or 1.4W @ 5V if my math is right.
I removed about 20 or so of them intact after the first two blew and a lot of them where removed before the last one exploded to but none of the once I tested after removing had any indication of a short as long as they where not powered.
So at least in my case it seems that the short is not measurable because it will happen WHEN enough voltage is applied and or current flow to or from the capacitors.
Thats the reason I removed all of them in the end and replaced them with modern electrolytic because after 4 exploding and not finding a single one shorted after being de-soldered I figured they where all ticking time bombs.
They where all of the same size and model, there where other models on this board to but none of those had an issue.
The board is now fixed, new electrolytic caps instead, 2032 modded with charging diode removed, some corrosion cleanup etc.
Boots from floppy and disk now.
But yea I would replace all tantalum capacitors just in case on my boards just because there ticking time bombs and if your unlucky they will roast a trace on the PCB and then you have to repair that to.
I ended up using the same value Electrolytic of high quality, both have polarity and the later one usually dont explode and usually fails open rather then short.
But in the end one might not be able to measure a short, at least with the once I had to deal with there where low resistant at best, 9-10 ohm and when all removed it was about 18ohm but that was just one of the 4 exploding being "a slow burner" and it went of late.
Anyways If I do a board for myself I'm gonna remove them all because now Im afraid if explosions XD
I think you're right to replace them once you get a few failures on a board. What's weird with tantalums is there seems to be big differences between different manufacturers and maybe even different batches. The ones that survive well en masse tend to continue to survive well.
I've purchased a bunch of Sanyo MBC-55x 8088 machines and they're pretty heavy on tantalums. Never had one explode. Interestingly, one is always installed backwards from the factory, but instead of a power rail, it's used in a low current/low voltage timing circuit.
Unfortunately after 20+ years that backwards one has a tendency to leak electrically and if the timer won't fire the disk drives won't operate. Simply turning the "bad" capacitor around so it's the right way fixes the problem on these. I've seen some mention of self healing properties on tantalums but was still a little surprised to see it happen, though admittedly this is a fairly contrived abuse pattern that caused the damage.
1:30 Nice! I have a handful of 80186 in CLCC form. Don't recall what they were removed from.
Oh, a very nice board! I have 2 ceramic 286 boards on my repair pile too so I can't yet test my ceramic 286 CPUs. You know what happened when I tried them? I remember that at least one of them worked for a few hours but I'm absolutely sure that both got there with exploding tantalum caps by the power connector. How surprising :D
yeah, this tantalum caps can bring indeed some random exploding experience to your life 😂
I recognize the logo on the mainboard - it’s made by Chaintech.
Yeah it also says Chaintech in the ISA slots too. Didn't know that they've made boards back in 286 era.
Very good job !
I have a sneaking suspicion that this guy refurbishes ancient nuclear launch systems.
4:00 POP GOES PERFECTION!
Good restoration and loved the copasator burnout wahnsinn haaaa
Wow! Ich versuche mich auch gerade an der Restauration eines 286er Boards. Wenn ich dieses Video sehe war ich bisher wohl viel zu vorsichtig. Unverdünnter Essig in rauen Mengen, Wasserhahn und Backofen wären mir nicht in den Sinn gekommen!
I always expect them to go these days. it's a shock when they dont.
Keep up the good work. Great youtube channel
Thanks for your feedback. 👍🏻
Quite lucky with so little damage there.
Very good!
Exploding tantalum are fun to watch
:D De depperten Kondensatoren imma! Schaaaß! :D +1 Like from bavaria!
That's the reason why I always replace EVERY tantalum cap before switching on those old boards- there's always a good chance, that they explode- and I'm VEEEEERY scared, so I try to avoid those situations. If I want to know, if a board works without replacing, I switch it on while I'm not in the same room. :D
aww, the magic smoke got out
CPU galaxy swears? But you usually have the manners of a calm computer museum curator!
LOL just messing with you. Great video as always
Nice video!
Like ever!
20:55 how was the spiced, washed baked chips 😁😁
lol
The salt was missing... ;-)
6:56 Y2K compliant BIOS.... nice
For my 386/40 I was looking for a good graphics card. A dealer friend gave me a bunch of graphics cards to test. In the end I chose one from Oak, which was by far the fastest. If you ever get bored, maybe you can compare some ISA graphics cards? Benchmarks were rather uncommon back then, "performance" was rather measured in color depth.
You don't happen to have a 100 MHz crystal floating around and could test if a 386/40 will work at 50 MHz? I had already bought a (super expensive) crystal back in these times, but never used it. Okay, overclocking was really a nerd topic back then.
BTW: My brother already overclocked his CPC 464 to six megahertz. That was pretty pointless, because many programs had timing problems afterwards.
Great video but note that vinegar does not neutralize acids. Vinegar is an acid... You would want to apply baking soda to neutralize the battery acid.
What's in the extended setup menu? I've never seen one of those old style BIOSes have that option. Is it just hard drive formatting utilities?
really nice! - a question: with the big battery are there modern day more reliable versions? or do they all have this time bomb ticking?
The batteries used in modern PC-s are CR2032 batteries, and those don't leak. These old motherboards can be modded to use those newer, better batteries. Not all old motherboards have this time bomb thow. I saw multiple 386 boards with CR2032's, and there might be some late 286 ones as well.
dieser kleine Tantal-Kondensator hat sozusagen voll abgestunken ;)
😂
This channel is great.
Thank You 🙏🏻
Have you ever heard of a computer manufacturer named, Eastern Digital? I could not find anything on Google and have a nice tower built by Eastern Digital with a motherboard that needs repair! I think this piece is extremely rare.
Sorry, but I‘ve never heard about that company. Are you sure rhe motherboard is also made by them?
@@CPUGalaxy Not sure, but I can take a picture and send it to your email, I'm very intrigued by this piece, because I've seen and heard absolutely nothing about it, but the tower itself is really nice.
of course. send me some detailed pics of the mainboard
12:10 for ASMR
I have repaired circuit boards with corrosion before though not computer motherboards. To help to keep the corrosion from coming back, I would just spritz the repair area with clear lacquer. Just sayin' Mike
You are AWESOME!
uooo nice fireworks here! it always happens. Love to see you cursing!
😅
NIce to know that the 287 FPU i put in my 286 PC is the fastest one, didn know.
Das "depperten Kondensatoren", Highlight für mich!
lol. ich dachte ich lass mal eine spontane Reaktion im Video. 😂
@@CPUGalaxy immer gut, Super Video!
Über eine Folge komplett im tiefsten Österreichisch würde ich mich sehr freuen. :-)
lol oba sicha net meine zuschaua. de redn olle fost nur englisch. 😅
De soin se ned so o’stelln. De kinna ja de Untertitl lesn. :-)
Ich hab hier immer noch diesen riesigen NCR PC8 286er da stehen und trau mich nicht, da Strom drauf zu geben... In Deinem Video sieht man, warum. Der hat Vollausstattung, 2 fette RLL Platten drin. Wahrscheinlich 8 oder 12Mhz, nicht sicher... aber demnächst trau ich mich mal. www.old-computers.com/museum/computer.asp?st=1&c=541
schönes teil, vorallem mit RLL platten. 😃
Nimh cells are good if the device is in regular use, while self discharge is slow these are under a small load, a low charge will see the battery electrodes eat themselves, leakage then follows.
an exellent video!!!!
thank you!
That was quite a nice job. What is the strange looking I/O connector near the memory sockets?
11:26 - я заменяю эти гацкие танталы на обычные электролиты. Да, они сохнут и т.д., но их хотя бы не пробивает статикой в КЗ с последующим фейерверком.
Moin, habe mir dieses Video gegönnt, da ich selbst am restaurieren sind. Hast du zufällig auch etwas in Richtung AMD K6 - 2 450AFX?
Habe einen mit 450mhz gestanzt auf das Jahr 1998 und etwas gelesen das es da wohl auch Raritäten gibt. Würde mich interessieren ob du du da etwas mehr weißt. PS das Board funktioniert einwandfrei nachdem ich es nach deinen Methoden gereinigt habe. Bist gold wert mit deiner Arbeit. LG
vielen dank. das freut mich. Ja, beim AMD K6 gibts Raritäten. Und zwar K6-3 und K6-3+. sind relativ selten und sau schnell weil L2 Cache in der CPU includiert ist.
@@CPUGalaxy okay coole Sache, so einen k3+ bekomme schon schon von einem Bekannten und der k3 ist schon in der Post unterwegs zu mir 👌
these boards XT and 286 are only double sided ? or they have intermediate layers like new motherboards? ty
good question. I believe they are already multilayer. But I am not sure.
Did you need to individually remove all that RAM first before you cleaned it, or was that just to upgrade capacity?
PLCC=Plastic Leadless Chip Carrier :)
Tantalum capacitors don't like over -voltage conditions and when they are pushed they do like to explode. Perhaps you ought to invest in a rheostat to bring the power up slowly.
The Bill Gates 640 Legend! --- 640k was enough given the architecture of the original 1981 IBM PC, in which this statement has its context and sense. Since, its been repeated to appear Gates had a lack of foresight (despite dominating the software industry later!) Later in his career Gates responded to a student who inquired about it: "I've said some stupid things and some wrong things, but not that. No one involved in computers would ever say that a certain amount of memory is enough for all time." ... the legend lives on today!
Can i buy that corrosion cleaning liquid in england ? Very Good Video :-)
yeah, just concentrated vinegar. 😉
Lovely Chaintech board. Bill Gates also called the 286 "brain dead".
this is why i never turn retro devices on as the first step.
always check for shorts first!
lucky about the copper traces did not get eaten out
yeah, indeed.
What did you use to clean up the keyboard CPU (8042)? Same as for the mainboard?
yeah, same. ☺️
@
CPU Galaxy
You can also use a supercap as replacament for cmos battery.
Yes, I know. I did it already on a 386 board. There is also a video on my channel about that.
Hey wait! Why was this tantalum soldered in the wrong way? And how could you film the explosion on a different angle? Was there a second camera installed? ;)
I've clocked many 8Mhz 286's at 12Mhz without a single issue.
I hob so lochn miassn! Genau dos Sölbe is ma vur a poor Wochn passiert, wo i mein 386er noch 20+ Johr wieda amol außagekramt hob - "ach, scholt ma ein, schauma anfoch, wos passiet!" - TUSCH - "JO SO A SCHAAß!" :D Und dos Problem mit de Tonnen-Akkus, dos uns sowieso olle plogt, hobt i anfoch oba doch elegant mit am Lir2032 gelöst :)
ma geil. a kumpl aus mein lond.. schen a bissl dialekt zum hern. 😅👍🏻👍🏻
Geht mir gonz genau so! :) Blöde Froge - und blöden Frogen gebührt ka Ontwurt, es sei denn, de is noch teppata als de Froge sölba :D Wo konn ma di denn verorten? Fia mi hurchast di ziemlich kärntnerisch on...
hahah 😂. i hau mi grod weg do. du bist a witziga kerl. des gfollt ma. jo, bin aus villach. und du?
No do hob i jo guat grotn. I bin per Kommissar zufoll auf dein Videos gstoßn, schon beim ersten, wos i ma ongschaut hob, wor ma klor - dei Englisch hot an österreichischen Einschlog 😀. Seit diesem Video wor i ma bezüglich Bundeslond relativ sicher... I? I bin gor nit so weit entfernt, 40 km östlich - St. Veit.
Get into tha chopp......286 mainboard.
I want to know the results of benchmark 10Mhz overclocked vs 12 native
Awesome! Now fix it!
Bill Gates (and some other Microsoft employees) stated he never said that with the 640kb. It was most likely a decision about the mainboard layout of one the first IBM PCs which created that 640kb-limit.
You should change all tantalum cap...
If a few of them go, maybe it's worthwhile. Not all tantalums are created equal, but generally if they don't explode they continue to perform perfectly. Aluminum electrolytics have a lot more performance variation as they age, and I'd be much more suspicious of them if there is a stability problem. I'd be hesitant to change out something with solid characteristics but perhaps a little explody once in a while for stuff that's harder to determine the operational condition of.
@@big0bad0brad I agree with you but I saw a brand new tantalum cap burning after a few hours operating... at least it is easy to spot the bad one.
exploding caps ... OOOOH!!!
If the board functions without that blown cap, what was it's function in the first place?
Guessing it's probably for the +12V or -12V rail and nothing really needs those to be that stable. It may keep some noise away from sound cards if they use the 12V for the output amp but otherwise it's unlikely to be noticed. If it's for the 5V rail, undoubtedly there are many others on the board to pick up the slack.