Thanks for posting. I'm 68 now and some of my shop teachers are the ones I remember most, and most fondly. In fact, I don't remember ever disliking any of those guys. It's such a shame that they don't teach shop anymore, or do they? I had woodworking, metal working, electrical, and printing in middle school. Wood shop and machine shop in High school. The machines were all top notch & the teachers really great guys. I built stuff that I still have to this day. Sadly, a bygone era.
@@mrpete222 I live in a city that used to huge in manufacturing with Hamilton Beach In-Sink-Erator, Emmerson Electric, Western Printing, J.I. Case, Jacobsen, and dozens if not hundreds of other shops large and small. OK, so most of it is gone now but still, I learned skills in those classes that have served me well in life, as a homeowner, and just in general. Thanks again for the effort in creating your content. Well done sir.
I had great shop classes in Beaver Falls PA when I was there in the late eighties and early nineties. Wood shop and metal shop in middle school, small engines, electrical wiring, technical drafting, and industrial materials which was wood and metal projects. There was also a silkscreening class, but I did not take that one.
They still have some in Indianapolis Indiana at least, I was just talking to the son of guy I work with and he was telling me he is taking machining class and welding class. Said they have a whole new building all of Industrial Arts classes they just built at the school! Where I went to school, they only had wood shop and small engines but you could enroll in various other s and take a bus to the career center down at a neighboring school where they had metal working classes and such!
@@mrpete222AHH! I’m all-too familiar with that whole, “Pursuit of Perfection” FOREVER gettin’ in the way of true ‘satisfaction’! So, I’ve had to succumb to having trained myself into that subpar habit of, “Strive For Acceptability”! This thought, along the lines of Perfection, had me recalling a philosophical tangent thought I had awhile back, about that one particular line found in our U.S. Constitution… not to go on any sort of politicized thread rant whatsoever; just a thought, about the line of a, “Pursuit Of ‘Happiness’”, itself, possibly being one of the top-10 major flaws/errors of that document, which very much does have quite a few errors.. mostly grammar/punctuation/spelling issues. Per that “Happiness” bit (& again, just MY thought), maybe oughta been, “Pursuit Of A FULLY Functioning Democracy”, as history, even world-histories, has sadly, very few and far between examples of even a slight semblance of a ‘fully’ functioning democracy… But “happiness”? What a vague word-choice… Too many folks throughout the ages, all to often, seem to gain personal “happiness”, gleeful exuberant, malice HAPPINESS, at the expense of others’ misery, plight, misfortune, or sufferings… NOT very democratic. ANYWHO.. as i stated, this is JUST a thought.. Love all of your HIGHLY INFORMATIVE Shop Teacher vid’s Mr Pete!!!! Never to late to teach an old dog, new tricks!
Cheap center drills are one of the main reasons the tips break. And getting a tip off a part is an adventure. Thanks Mr. Pete!! I love the history lessons.
Thanks for another great video. I retired from the automotive industry and we used many radius center drills. Much like the combination cdrill but instead of the 60 degree taper, it was a radius. This helped immensely when turning parts that were heat treated and then ground. The reduced contact point improved the ability to grind the shaft concentric to other features not ground in the same holding.
My WW2 vintage 17" Leblond has a lug on the tailstock for a dauber. It was still full of dried up white lead when I got the lathe, but no dauber. Since I run live centers almost exclusively, it serves as tailstock chuck key storage. Another excellent informative video!
One VERY important thing that Mr. Pete did not mention is the fact that a center drill bit is designed to cut on the side of the flutes. This allows it to make a centered hole even if the tailstock center is not in perfect alignment with the chuck or if the center drill enters the stock off center. You can see this relief of the flutes by measuring the diameter of the pilot portion of the bit on the back edge of the flutes and then measure the front or cutting side. On a number 5 center drill bit the diameter of the back edge of the pilot will usually measure about 0.015 less than the front edge. So, unlike a twist drill bit, the center drill bit, due to this clearance, is essentially a side cutting bit... acting more like a boring bar than a twist drill bit. It, more than anything else, is what makes a center drill bit cut holes on center.
Center drills are very useful even if you don't have a lathe or a milling machine. I use them in my drill press and cordless drill to drill a small pilot hole before switching to a twist drill anytime I'm drilling a hole in metal. If you start with a center drill your twist drill will be less likely to 'walk' and your hole will be straighter as long as the pilot hole was straight to begin with. I particularly like using a center drill before I use an EZ-Out.
Love the detail and all the information presented, people don't know what they don't know, and videos like this leave nothing un-said. Thank you for all your effort and work to teach us who don't know.
Good morning Lyle, Excellent video. The brilliant design of center drills is that they are double sided. I get to raise my hand finally now that I found a dauber on EBay for my Craftsman 12” that I am restoring to factory condition. It’s 70 years old and I believe from a school because the change gears are color coded. I bought a QCGB and re-bushed it I also bought new Timken bearings and races from Allied Industrial. That was $350 for the complete set. Thank you for being a great teacher and sharing your knowledge. I just hope all of us students can pass the FINAL EXAM. 😅
One thing you didn’t mention, and I didn’t see any of, are the “bell center drills”. I bought some of those back in the 1970s and don’t recall seeing any since. For those who don’t know what they are, at the top of the taper the cutting edge flattens like a counterbore, just a bit. That allows the center drill to drill just a bit deeper without the hole going parallel and ruining the taper. There are, and I believe it to be a more recent innovation, taper drills where the taper isn’t straight, but curves inward. This allows an offset tailstock to contact the taper evenly, rather than being cocked in the taper which gives constantly rotating radial forces.
We always called them bell centers, they had a third cutting angle of 120 degrees. Many of the centers we drilled were on castings. Of course a center drilled into a casting usually ended up on the casting center line which usually had a ridge and or offset from the mold parting line. This style center 'countersunk' the center so the critical mouth edge of the center was evenly perpendicular to the center's axis. This additional countersink also offered some degree of protection for the center mouth from damage in handling before subsequent machining operations.
@@phasereversal7783 they were called bell center drills to distinguish them from the actual tailstock or headstock center. I would have to look, but I’m pretty sure the addition cutting edges are at a 90 degree angle.
@@melgross You could be correct on the 90 degree angle, my experience with them was long ago. I seem to remember another style that produced a narrow spotface profile around the center's mouth. The company I worked for at the time was a very large outfit, they would specify all kinds of variations or specials for tooling. They put alot of engineering effort into manufacturing. One example was the prints always called out .323 Dia (letter P drill) for 3/8-16 threads instead of the usual 5/16 drill called out in most tap drill tables for that thread. Interesting place to work....
@@phasereversal7783 there are a lot of unusual, I’m not sure what to call them, standards maybe? For example we all see written everywhere that a #7 bit is used for 1/4 20, but my Holo-Chrome socket screw selector and cardboard computer for inch, says #6. I’ve never seen that anywhere else. It could be a typo, but the equivalent on their site also says #6. Strange!
I don't have any reliable information on this, but I believe that the tip of the center drill also creates clearance for the center tip, so that the stock rests on the taper of the center and not just its tip.
I loved the video, Mr. Pete. Years back, I was gifted a restored Unimat lathe. It had a dead center and I had no idea that live centers existed 😅. Not only that, I would force into aluminum and brass without any lubricants. Well, six years later I know better.
Thanks for another imformative video, in the UK we some times use a protected centre drill, it simply leaves a counter bore on the end so the centre doesn't get damaged & coarse the work to run out, from Coventry in UK 🇬🇧.
You the Man, Mr. Pete ! I just got done buying a couple more #2(s) . With center drills it pays to buy quality -- I've got "burned" too many times when trying to buy the cheapies ! A good center drill will last you a long time and be there when ya need one !
Thanks for the great video. I've always wanted to learn more about these but never took the time to research the topic. Just what I was hoping for! Not more than I wanted to know, just about right.
Thank you sir. I personally found the video very interesting. I like the history the time line of invention and the depth of knowledge. You are a man of thought and I appreciate that. Thought has become a bit scarce.
I still use a dead center as it saves me room when turning long-ish items. As for lubricant, I learned turning using pork fat. You could always smell when it was getting hot too
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I definitely didn’t know about the white lead or the high pressure grease. I don’t think I’ll be on the lookout for the lead, but I might look to pickup some of the grease. I’ll have to check for a dauber on my old Hendey lathe
I had to drill a series of six 1/8" holes, string pass through's on an electric guitar body. On the backside, they would be drilled to 5/16" for a brass ferrule to hold the string ball. I did it on my mill using the DRO. Perfect lineup on the drill side, but all catty wampus on the backside as the drill flexed and drifted. I should have started with a center drill.
I thought that dauber hole was for oiling the tail stock! Works good on my 1911 SB. Must've drilled it a hair deep. Never looked upon a dauner until now. Oh! Center drills are awesome! I use the tail stock whenever I can as my '28 SB is worn out and it helps steady my work. Is resharpening them next? Im kidding. Something learned for today!
Lyle, I’m guessing you have no idle time, always looking for something new to build, fix, or improve! So many good,specialized tools for special purposes! Love it!
I found it interesting, my collection of center drills has dwindled (I bought a pack of 1/4, and some 3/16 and 1/8) at an auction and then a box with some larger and medium length in another lot many years ago). Total investment was less than $5. I doubt I’ll get a single drill from McMaster for that today. I did work on a lathe with a cup and cap to store lube. And in school, now torn down and made into a specialty program for students who panic at the thought of reading a standard (non digital) micrometer.
We wanna hear some more boyhood PRANK videos.Or maybe some Hardy boys type adventurers.I KNOW you read them Hardy books.Or maybe you all put a oil drum on the illonois central tracks then hid behind a tree to watch the fun unfold.Hilarious!The cops were looking for us but we paid em no mind.We did that in the subway in coney island.That drum went airborne jack!
Thanks Chuck. I was thinking about you this morning. A man just came clear from Ohio to pick up that huge batch of gear pullers. A Long trip, such as what you made when you visited me. Thank you for your support.
Thanks Mr Pete, an overkill collection. No dauber on our 1963 or so 9" South Bends and Definitely no live centers, just that little can of white lead without a Warning Label to Not Eat It. Also, any idea who set the Numerical Standard for the center drills? Mr Slocomb seems to have used random letters for his 1/8" thru 7/16", then numbers for 1/2" thru 3/4"?
Good discussion did you ever use the broken end to remove the tip lodged in the work by grinding out center of center drill with cutoff wheel to make clearance for broken tip. Which allows you to drill around tip and remove broken tip with small punch.
You are going to have to wait a long time. I gave my printer away. But printing a holder similar to the wooden ones would be a great project for someone. I was thinking about making a new holder out of aluminum. Actually, the lid is kind of a nuisance.
I rebuilt an Atlas 10f that had a dauber. It also had babbit bearings. My current 10f has Timken bearings but still has the dauber. I believe they stopped incorporating them when the lathe was re-stylized. Thanks, Mr Pete!
Good Sunday morning to you! Love the videos! I sold my 1936 atlas that had a dauber hole last spring. It did not have the dauber, nor did I ever make one for it. I replaced it with a Southbend 13x. >I took your advise! This week I have acquired a J head 1 Bridgeport to clean up and restore. (over a new Chinese -ium)Lots of polishing the oiled rusted over parts but it cleans up pretty good for what I need it. >>I would like to strip and paint it. I'm thinking of using the needle scaler and taking it to the casting. But not put any of the filler back on and prime and pain the bare cast. Thoughts?
I have been using center and spotting drills for over 40 years, and I still learned several things from this video. I like the idea of making morse taper holders. That could be as handy as a pocket on a shirt! Did you counter bore or ream to size? How did you hold the morse taper blank for concentricity and perpendicularity? My wood lathes have morse taper spindles, that may be an easy machining solution. Did you use a set screw to secure the center drill and through drill for a rejector rod to replace a damaged drill? A follow up video... Please! Your morse taper holders appeared factory made and modified. I feel chastised for cheating and using center drills for the incorrect screw head taper. Another wannabe machinist error...😢
Thanks Mr Pete! Ironically, I just received a tube of that same CMD for lubricating threads of a choke tube, per some gunsmithing forum. I thought it would be a small tube, but the thing is way bigger than I will ever use! Thanks for primer on center drills!
I wish I had the opportunity to take your shop class instead of Sister Irmaleta’s baking class. I can’t turn a door knob but I can bake a mean blueberry muffin
No you answered a question I didn’t know I had about my 1917ish Victor lathe. There’s a hole in the right place that is likely the dauber hole. No pin in it but I’ll bet that’s it.
@@mrpete222 Incredible! There is another city named Peru in Nebraska as well. I come from the South American country, where you have more than one fan.
Lyle - Another good informative video this morning. When I got my 1945 SB Heavy 10 it luckily still had the brass dauber which still sits on the tailstock. Even came with an unopened can of white lead - fun to explain things like that to my grandson. I'm thinking I even have one of those 4 1/2 size that came in a box lot at an auction - you know how that strange stuff appears when you least expect it. Have a good week.
Thanks for posting. I'm 68 now and some of my shop teachers are the ones I remember most, and most fondly. In fact, I don't remember ever disliking any of those guys. It's such a shame that they don't teach shop anymore, or do they? I had woodworking, metal working, electrical, and printing in middle school. Wood shop and machine shop in High school. The machines were all top notch & the teachers really great guys. I built stuff that I still have to this day. Sadly, a bygone era.
Well said!
@@mrpete222 I live in a city that used to huge in manufacturing with Hamilton Beach In-Sink-Erator, Emmerson Electric, Western Printing, J.I. Case, Jacobsen, and dozens if not hundreds of other shops large and small. OK, so most of it is gone now but still, I learned skills in those classes that have served me well in life, as a homeowner, and just in general. Thanks again for the effort in creating your content. Well done sir.
I had great shop classes in Beaver Falls PA when I was there in the late eighties and early nineties. Wood shop and metal shop in middle school, small engines, electrical wiring, technical drafting, and industrial materials which was wood and metal projects. There was also a silkscreening class, but I did not take that one.
They still have some in Indianapolis Indiana at least, I was just talking to the son of guy I work with and he was telling me he is taking machining class and welding class. Said they have a whole new building all of Industrial Arts classes they just built at the school!
Where I went to school, they only had wood shop and small engines but you could enroll in various other s and take a bus to the career center down at a neighboring school where they had metal working classes and such!
@@robertmason8341 Wow! Thanks. That's very encouraging.
The idea of a dedicated Morse taper center bit is a very good one. Thanks much!
Gears in my head are already turning on how to get this done.
After some looking I found Collis 73501, 73502, and 73503 for MT#3
Mr. Pete. Another excellent video. Keep making them and we will keep watching.
Thanks, I made that video long long time ago and I thought it was so poor. I did not want to release it.
@@mrpete222AHH! I’m all-too familiar with that whole, “Pursuit of Perfection” FOREVER gettin’ in the way of true ‘satisfaction’! So, I’ve had to succumb to having trained myself into that subpar habit of, “Strive For Acceptability”!
This thought, along the lines of Perfection, had me recalling a philosophical tangent thought I had awhile back, about that one particular line found in our U.S. Constitution… not to go on any sort of politicized thread rant whatsoever; just a thought, about the line of a, “Pursuit Of ‘Happiness’”, itself, possibly being one of the top-10 major flaws/errors of that document, which very much does have quite a few errors.. mostly grammar/punctuation/spelling issues.
Per that “Happiness” bit (& again, just MY thought), maybe oughta been, “Pursuit Of A FULLY Functioning Democracy”, as history, even world-histories, has sadly, very few and far between examples of even a slight semblance of a ‘fully’ functioning democracy…
But “happiness”? What a vague word-choice…
Too many folks throughout the ages, all to often, seem to gain personal “happiness”, gleeful exuberant, malice HAPPINESS, at the expense of others’ misery, plight, misfortune, or sufferings… NOT very democratic. ANYWHO.. as i stated, this is JUST a thought..
Love all of your HIGHLY INFORMATIVE Shop Teacher vid’s Mr Pete!!!! Never to late to teach an old dog, new tricks!
Cheap center drills are one of the main reasons the tips break. And getting a tip off a part is an adventure. Thanks Mr. Pete!! I love the history lessons.
Thanks for another great video. I retired from the automotive industry and we used many radius center drills. Much like the combination cdrill but instead of the 60 degree taper, it was a radius. This helped immensely when turning parts that were heat treated and then ground. The reduced contact point improved the ability to grind the shaft concentric to other features not ground in the same holding.
Thanks for sharing
My WW2 vintage 17" Leblond has a lug on the tailstock for a dauber. It was still full of dried up white lead when I got the lathe, but no dauber. Since I run live centers almost exclusively, it serves as tailstock chuck key storage. Another excellent informative video!
My Atlas TH54 has a dauber hole, and thanks to following a Mr. Peter video it has a dauber as well.
One VERY important thing that Mr. Pete did not mention is the fact that a center drill bit is designed to cut on the side of the flutes. This allows it to make a centered hole even if the tailstock center is not in perfect alignment with the chuck or if the center drill enters the stock off center. You can see this relief of the flutes by measuring the diameter of the pilot portion of the bit on the back edge of the flutes and then measure the front or cutting side. On a number 5 center drill bit the diameter of the back edge of the pilot will usually measure about 0.015 less than the front edge. So, unlike a twist drill bit, the center drill bit, due to this clearance, is essentially a side cutting bit... acting more like a boring bar than a twist drill bit. It, more than anything else, is what makes a center drill bit cut holes on center.
Excellent comment, hope other people read it
Center drills are very useful even if you don't have a lathe or a milling machine. I use them in my drill press and cordless drill to drill a small pilot hole before switching to a twist drill anytime I'm drilling a hole in metal. If you start with a center drill your twist drill will be less likely to 'walk' and your hole will be straighter as long as the pilot hole was straight to begin with. I particularly like using a center drill before I use an EZ-Out.
Nope. You didn't tell me more than I wanted to know. I WANTED to know everything and you taught me a LOT. Excellent!
Love the detail and all the information presented, people don't know what they don't know, and videos like this leave nothing un-said. Thank you for all your effort and work to teach us who don't know.
Glad it was helpful!
Good morning Lyle,
Excellent video. The brilliant design of center drills is that they are double sided. I get to raise my hand finally now that I found a dauber on EBay for my Craftsman 12” that I am restoring to factory condition. It’s 70 years old and I believe from a school because the change gears are color coded.
I bought a QCGB and re-bushed it I also bought new Timken bearings and races from Allied Industrial.
That was $350 for the complete set.
Thank you for being a great teacher and sharing your knowledge. I just hope all of us students can pass the FINAL EXAM.
😅
Thank you for watching and making a great comment
One thing you didn’t mention, and I didn’t see any of, are the “bell center drills”. I bought some of those back in the 1970s and don’t recall seeing any since. For those who don’t know what they are, at the top of the taper the cutting edge flattens like a counterbore, just a bit. That allows the center drill to drill just a bit deeper without the hole going parallel and ruining the taper. There are, and I believe it to be a more recent innovation, taper drills where the taper isn’t straight, but curves inward. This allows an offset tailstock to contact the taper evenly, rather than being cocked in the taper which gives constantly rotating radial forces.
Thanks I may elaborate on that. When I originally made the video, I thought I had one of those, and I looked and looked and never could find it.
We always called them bell centers, they had a third cutting angle of 120 degrees. Many of the centers we drilled were on castings. Of course a center drilled into a casting usually ended up on the casting center line which usually had a ridge and or offset from the mold parting line. This style center 'countersunk' the center so the critical mouth edge of the center was evenly perpendicular to the center's axis. This additional countersink also offered some degree of protection for the center mouth from damage in handling before subsequent machining operations.
@@phasereversal7783 they were called bell center drills to distinguish them from the actual tailstock or headstock center. I would have to look, but I’m pretty sure the addition cutting edges are at a 90 degree angle.
@@melgross You could be correct on the 90 degree angle, my experience with them was long ago. I seem to remember another style that produced a narrow spotface profile around the center's mouth. The company I worked for at the time was a very large outfit, they would specify all kinds of variations or specials for tooling. They put alot of engineering effort into manufacturing. One example was the prints always called out .323 Dia (letter P drill) for 3/8-16 threads instead of the usual 5/16 drill called out in most tap drill tables for that thread. Interesting place to work....
@@phasereversal7783 there are a lot of unusual, I’m not sure what to call them, standards maybe? For example we all see written everywhere that a #7 bit is used for 1/4 20, but my Holo-Chrome socket screw selector and cardboard computer for inch, says #6. I’ve never seen that anywhere else. It could be a typo, but the equivalent on their site also says #6. Strange!
I don't have any reliable information on this, but I believe that the tip of the center drill also creates clearance for the center tip, so that the stock rests on the taper of the center and not just its tip.
Very true, I should have mentioned that
Thank you for this information.
Not a machinistn but I watch a few machinists and have been wondering whats the big deal with center drills. Excellent explanation. Now I understand.
Thanks 👍
A properly sized center drill bit mounted in a cordless drill is my favorite way to de-burr the ID of steel tubing (1/4, 3/8 or 1/2" tubing).
Awesome idea, never thought of it
Without being able to take shop in school I loved this video! Please teach me more.
Will do!!
You covered the subject well, very well.
Well done. Very well done. I have a few cobalt center drills that I prize. I don't think I've ever broken one of them.
I loved the video, Mr. Pete. Years back, I was gifted a restored Unimat lathe. It had a dead center and I had no idea that live centers existed 😅. Not only that, I would force into aluminum and brass without any lubricants. Well, six years later I know better.
😁
Hello Lyle, never knew the history of Slocumb.....I have 3 or 4 Slocomb micrometers.....great video as always, Paulie in Orlando
Glad you enjoyed it
Interesting. I like these little teaching video's.
Handy in the mill for starting holes too. Keep the videos coming, like em all !
Thanks for another imformative video, in the UK we some times use a protected centre drill, it simply leaves a counter bore on the end so the centre doesn't get damaged & coarse the work to run out, from Coventry in UK 🇬🇧.
I’ve seen those in the catalog. I’m thinking about doing a follow up and I will mention that.
You the Man, Mr. Pete ! I just got done buying a couple more #2(s) . With center drills it pays to buy quality -- I've got "burned" too many times when trying to buy the cheapies ! A good center drill will last you a long time and be there when ya need one !
👍👍
I always wanted to know more about center drills BUT, was afraid to ask LOL
😁😁
Thanks Mr. Pete, you told me more about center drills than my 1930s machinist Dad did.
😁😁👍👍
Great information Mr. Pete!
Thanks for the great video. I've always wanted to learn more about these but never took the time to research the topic. Just what I was hoping for! Not more than I wanted to know, just about right.
Thank you sir. I personally found the video very interesting. I like the history the time line of invention and the depth of knowledge. You are a man of thought and I appreciate that. Thought has become a bit scarce.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Your bit on 'ole J.T. Slocomb was hilarious. Somedays around here keeping a tip on a center drill can be a challenge!
Solid information with examples and anecdotes! My second favorite shop teacher! Thanks!
😂😂😂 who is your first favorite Shop teacher?😂😂
I still use a dead center as it saves me room when turning long-ish items.
As for lubricant, I learned turning using pork fat. You could always smell when it was getting hot too
Does it make you hungry?
Thank You for explaining why I have an extra hole on my tail stock.
It’s always something that comes new to me!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I definitely didn’t know about the white lead or the high pressure grease. I don’t think I’ll be on the lookout for the lead, but I might look to pickup some of the grease. I’ll have to check for a dauber on my old Hendey lathe
That was a very interesting subject, thanks for the lesson Mrpete 👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you for all the information about stubby center drills
I had to drill a series of six 1/8" holes, string pass through's on an electric guitar body. On the backside, they would be drilled to 5/16" for a brass ferrule to hold the string ball. I did it on my mill using the DRO. Perfect lineup on the drill side, but all catty wampus on the backside as the drill flexed and drifted. I should have started with a center drill.
😂yes
If you swab out the acrylic with acetone it should clear up
The Dauber hole is on my 70s Herucs 9 and I never knew! I guess I'll have to turn one.
Yes
Thank you, I too would like to see part two.
Thanks for the information Lyle. I didn't know you were only meant to drill 2/3ds of the way up the bit.
I always enjoy the way you lead us
Fascinating. As ever I learned something new.
Always instructional! Thanks, Mr. Pete! ⭐🙂👍
Thanks Mr P, for some stuff I wasn't aware of.
I’ve used a #0 several times while making parts for small models. I believe the #00 I got in an estate sale already had one end broken off.
Thanks for the posting. Have a good week.
My old South Bend was supposed to have one but was missing. I made a new one after watching your video on the subject years ago.
😁
Thank you sir, that was Very interesting and informative!
Thanks for the video Mr. Pete. Always something interesting.
Good stuff as always. How about a detailed look at center vs spot drills and when to choose one over the other?
@9:18 "Did I tell you more than you wanted to know?" Nope. It was just the perfect depth.
I never knew why the pilot was so long - very interesting!
I enjoyed this video. I can honestly say that I learned something new today.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I thought that dauber hole was for oiling the tail stock! Works good on my 1911 SB. Must've drilled it a hair deep.
Never looked upon a dauner until now.
Oh! Center drills are awesome!
I use the tail stock whenever I can as my '28 SB is worn out and it helps steady my work.
Is resharpening them next?
Im kidding.
Something learned for today!
Great video Mr Pete. I got my center drills from Pete Bay, and I use them all the time.
👍👍👍
Lyle, I’m guessing you have no idle time, always looking for something new to build, fix, or improve! So many good,specialized tools for special purposes! Love it!
I’m saving my idle time for the coffin
Enjoyable and informative
nice topic. Thank you.
bought a err25 mt3 collet chuck just to hold my center drill for the lathe.
hi mr Pete,when should you use a pilot drill instead of a center drill.
Keep up the good work Mr Pete !
I'm re-watching your greensand casting series and loving it!
At 1:10 - Pete is talking about the "two" purposes of center drills. I have a third purpose - You can use it to countersink and/or debur a hole.
It is not the correct angle to counter sink for flathead screws
Great video, I can get tight tolerance work done using center drills.
Thanks again, as Iearn a few more things I did not know from you every time I watch.
Great job. Thank you 😊
I found it interesting, my collection of center drills has dwindled (I bought a pack of 1/4, and some 3/16 and 1/8) at an auction and then a box with some larger and medium length in another lot many years ago). Total investment was less than $5. I doubt I’ll get a single drill from McMaster for that today. I did work on a lathe with a cup and cap to store lube. And in school, now torn down and made into a specialty program for students who panic at the thought of reading a standard (non digital) micrometer.
😂
We wanna hear some more boyhood PRANK videos.Or maybe some Hardy boys type adventurers.I KNOW you read them Hardy books.Or maybe you all put a oil drum on the illonois central tracks then hid behind a tree to watch the fun unfold.Hilarious!The cops were looking for us but we paid em no mind.We did that in the subway in coney island.That drum went airborne jack!
I want to hear about the pranks his students did on him while HE was teaching!!!
Love the history!
You did not say enough so now I will watch it again 😊
Nice video! Thanks for sharing your time and many talents! All the best…. Chuck
Thanks Chuck. I was thinking about you this morning. A man just came clear from Ohio to pick up that huge batch of gear pullers.
A Long trip, such as what you made when you visited me. Thank you for your support.
Thanks Mr Pete, an overkill collection. No dauber on our 1963 or so 9" South Bends and Definitely no live centers, just that little can of white lead without a Warning Label to Not Eat It. Also, any idea who set the Numerical Standard for the center drills? Mr Slocomb seems to have used random letters for his 1/8" thru 7/16", then numbers for 1/2" thru 3/4"?
Good discussion did you ever use the broken end to remove the tip lodged in the work by grinding out center of center drill with cutoff wheel to make clearance for broken tip. Which allows you to drill around tip and remove broken tip with small punch.
I didn't
Excellent info. As a non-machinist, but a retired novice in metal work, I learned a lot. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it
Lyle, I'd like to see you print a screw on cap and base for a set of the center drills!
You are going to have to wait a long time. I gave my printer away.
But printing a holder similar to the wooden ones would be a great project for someone. I was thinking about making a new holder out of aluminum. Actually, the lid is kind of a nuisance.
I rebuilt an Atlas 10f that had a dauber. It also had babbit bearings. My current 10f has Timken bearings but still has the dauber.
I believe they stopped incorporating them when the lathe was re-stylized. Thanks, Mr Pete!
Good Sunday morning to you! Love the videos! I sold my 1936 atlas that had a dauber hole last spring. It did not have the dauber, nor did I ever make one for it. I replaced it with a Southbend 13x.
>I took your advise! This week I have acquired a J head 1 Bridgeport to clean up and restore. (over a new Chinese -ium)Lots of polishing the oiled rusted over parts but it cleans up pretty good for what I need it.
>>I would like to strip and paint it. I'm thinking of using the needle scaler and taking it to the casting. But not put any of the filler back on and prime and pain the bare cast. Thoughts?
Great info! love the videos!
I have been using center and spotting drills for over 40 years, and I still learned several things from this video.
I like the idea of making morse taper holders. That could be as handy as a pocket on a shirt! Did you counter bore or ream to size? How did you hold the morse taper blank for concentricity and perpendicularity? My wood lathes have morse taper spindles, that may be an easy machining solution. Did you use a set screw to secure the center drill and through drill for a rejector rod to replace a damaged drill? A follow up video... Please!
Your morse taper holders appeared factory made and modified.
I feel chastised for cheating and using center drills for the incorrect screw head taper. Another wannabe machinist error...😢
Thanks Mr Pete! Ironically, I just received a tube of that same CMD for lubricating threads of a choke tube, per some gunsmithing forum. I thought it would be a small tube, but the thing is way bigger than I will ever use! Thanks for primer on center drills!
👍👍
I wish I had the opportunity to take your shop class instead of Sister Irmaleta’s baking class. I can’t turn a door knob but I can bake a mean blueberry muffin
Lol
More please!
No you answered a question I didn’t know I had about my 1917ish Victor lathe. There’s a hole in the right place that is likely the dauber hole. No pin in it but I’ll bet that’s it.
Great Video!
Raising my hand. Yup. Got a dauber on my '51 Logan.
😄
Good information.
Thanks
Didn't know you needed to go so far up the countersink part.. Always learning! Thanks.
Very interesting video, thanks again Mr. Peterson. Regards from sunny Peru.
I grew up in Peru, Illinois. Look it up on Google.
@@mrpete222 Incredible! There is another city named Peru in Nebraska as well. I come from the South American country, where you have more than one fan.
Always enjoy your videos. Now explain the difference between and use of spotting drills and center drills
Lyle - Another good informative video this morning. When I got my 1945 SB Heavy 10 it luckily still had the brass dauber which still sits on the tailstock. Even came with an unopened can of white lead - fun to explain things like that to my grandson. I'm thinking I even have one of those 4 1/2 size that came in a box lot at an auction - you know how that strange stuff appears when you least expect it. Have a good week.
Great video as always 👍
Always added lubricant because sharpening looked difficult.
Thanks! Any rule of thumb for picking the right size for spotting?
I broke a few Center drills until I figured out they like to turn really fast
Good history lesson. Been using these for years but learned a few things from your lesson. Thank you!
Both my lathe have dauber holes, but no dauber. 1923 13" x 48" South Bend and 1956 South Bend Heavy 10K. 😊
Still have my original dauber on my Logan 920!! Thanks Mr. Pete
Yes Mr Pete I’m Doberless
Yes, I now know more about center drills than I will ever use. But, you never know, it might come in handy some day. Keep those video coming! KOKO!