Nicely done! Probably the most comprehensive demonstration I've found yet, filled with little details otherwise left out by others who've attempted instruction on this subject. I now feel as if I can do this and have success. Thanks! And by the way...loved the birds chirping in the background.
For marking the front rung. Just subtract the length of the back rung from the length of the front rung then divide the difference in two and that is how far from the each front post you mark the front rung. On the one I did today the front is 15", the back is 12" so the difference is 3" and half that is 1.5" and that is how far I marked the front rung at both ends. Real easy. He's measuring the hard way.
Hi, newbie here: I have four chairs that need to have the seats done. However, the chairs are for outside on the porch. The reason why they need to be restored is because the material got brittle and the seats fell through when someone sat on them. So here's my question: What sort material am I supposed to buy that can weather the outdoors? Or is there a special finish or spray that I use at the end in order to protect the wicker or cane? Any help would be so very appreciated. Thank you
@customcaning - These videos are right on time. I have two chairs I was thinking about trashing. Now they are summer project. Thanks for that. I do have a question, how did you determine how much rushing to cut to work with, and did you soak it all at once are a little at a time?
Great instruction video. Used the technique demonstrated to do my mothers 100+ year old chestnut childs rocker with excellent results. When adding new line by butting and nailing the ends I did use extra line, nail it and then cut the two to but. Thank-you for the great video
My father taught me how to make a woven rush chair over 50 years ago only he used real rush he bought from a woman on Cape Cod who harvested it herself. That would be how I would do it if it were not for the fact that real rush is nearly impossible to obtain. I don't know why some people still wet the paper fake rush because water weakens the fibers and damages them making the seat weak requiring replacement usually after only 20-50 years where if it is done completely dry like it is supposed to be done the paper seats should last 100+ years. I have one that was done in 1910 shortly after paper fake rush was invented.. it is still solid because it was done correctly. NEVER wet the paper. NEVER soak it fully submerged and for every minute it is wet you can take five years off it's longevity. So why do people wet the paper fake rush? Because they don't know any better. You have to soak real rush to soften the fibers so you can work with them but water won't harm real rush. When the cheaper paper fake rush was invented about 115 years ago people kept doing things the same way. They thought they also had to wet the paper fake rush. This despite the fact that the original instructions by the inventor state clearly not to wet the paper rush. By the way, you can make your own paper fake rush from craft paper cut in strips. Use wallpaper paste and you can safely soak the paper in that way and then twist each strip while wet then hang out to dry. But you do not have to soak that for twenty minutes. About a minute or two will do. A thirty foot roll of craft paper 30 inches long will yield about 300 feet, enough for one medium size chair or perhaps a larger one. Just remember you have to dry the twisted strips before you use them or you will have a mess and one more thing, you have to dilute the wallpaper paste about 50% with water. If you want it to dry super fast substitute alcohol but only do that outdoors and wear plastic gloves. DO NOT re wet the strips after they are dry.
si grapas las cuerdas en vez de usar clavos evitaras que se desilachen con el tiempo ademas de resultarte mas rapido y comodo PD:no te dediques a esto pues no se te da bien
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Had a chair for many a year. Now retired I found these videos today and I am going to give it ago. UTT.
Nicely done! Probably the most comprehensive demonstration I've found yet, filled with little details otherwise left out by others who've attempted instruction on this subject. I now feel as if I can do this and have success. Thanks!
And by the way...loved the birds chirping in the background.
For marking the front rung. Just subtract the length of the back rung from the length of the front rung then divide the difference in two and that is how far from the each front post you mark the front rung. On the one I did today the front is 15", the back is 12" so the difference is 3" and half that is 1.5" and that is how far I marked the front rung at both ends. Real easy. He's measuring the hard way.
you may find it easier to mark if you hold the 6 and 3/8th mark on the center mark, and then mark at the tip of the tape, or 0,
Hi, newbie here: I have four chairs that need to have the seats done. However, the chairs are for outside on the porch. The reason why they need to be restored is because the material got brittle and the seats fell through when someone sat on them.
So here's my question:
What sort material am I supposed to buy that can weather the outdoors? Or is there a special finish or spray that I use at the end in order to protect the wicker or cane? Any help would be so very appreciated. Thank you
Thanks for this video. I have one question. Do the knots show underneath
donde puedo conseguir la cuerda de papel aqui en valencia españa GRACIAS
@cucumber202 - criticism without an alternative is not helpful. If you find the rushing at Lee Valley inferior, what are some quality alternatives?
My rush is constantly unraveling, why is this?
@customcaning - These videos are right on time. I have two chairs I was thinking about trashing. Now they are summer project. Thanks for that. I do have a question, how did you determine how much rushing to cut to work with, and did you soak it all at once are a little at a time?
I send you greetings, I want to ask you what material is this weaving and where can I get
3/16th can order from Lee Valley
Great instruction video. Used the technique demonstrated to do my mothers 100+ year old chestnut childs rocker with excellent results. When adding new line by butting and nailing the ends I did use extra line, nail it and then cut the two to but. Thank-you for the great video
HI, I JUST FOUND THE FIBER RUSH AT LEE VALLEY, MY PROJECT STARTS WHEN IT GET HERE.
My father taught me how to make a woven rush chair over 50 years ago only he used real rush he bought from a woman on Cape Cod who harvested it herself. That would be how I would do it if it were not for the fact that real rush is nearly impossible to obtain. I don't know why some people still wet the paper fake rush because water weakens the fibers and damages them making the seat weak requiring replacement usually after only 20-50 years where if it is done completely dry like it is supposed to be done the paper seats should last 100+ years. I have one that was done in 1910 shortly after paper fake rush was invented.. it is still solid because it was done correctly. NEVER wet the paper. NEVER soak it fully submerged and for every minute it is wet you can take five years off it's longevity. So why do people wet the paper fake rush? Because they don't know any better. You have to soak real rush to soften the fibers so you can work with them but water won't harm real rush. When the cheaper paper fake rush was invented about 115 years ago people kept doing things the same way. They thought they also had to wet the paper fake rush. This despite the fact that the original instructions by the inventor state clearly not to wet the paper rush. By the way, you can make your own paper fake rush from craft paper cut in strips. Use wallpaper paste and you can safely soak the paper in that way and then twist each strip while wet then hang out to dry. But you do not have to soak that for twenty minutes. About a minute or two will do. A thirty foot roll of craft paper 30 inches long will yield about 300 feet, enough for one medium size chair or perhaps a larger one. Just remember you have to dry the twisted strips before you use them or you will have a mess and one more thing, you have to dilute the wallpaper paste about 50% with water. If you want it to dry super fast substitute alcohol but only do that outdoors and wear plastic gloves. DO NOT re wet the strips after they are dry.
si grapas las cuerdas en vez de usar clavos evitaras que se desilachen con el tiempo ademas de resultarte mas rapido y comodo
PD:no te dediques a esto pues no se te da bien
it is obvious: he did he same thing 3 or 4 more times, that's all
Iiooooooooppoooooo