Nice install job, that wiring in the cabinet is very well done. I still like how you can service bypass points on those panels when working on them, whether they are fire, burglary, or 24 hour.
Great video I have been watching your videos since 2016 and I think you are great also when you move into your new house you should add a system in and film you installing it and make a video about how to install a system we would all love you to come back to RUclips and I would love to see you get to 100k on one of your channels and I believe you can do it and it would be nice for you I would think to do RUclips as a alarm channel or DIY channel or even I know you did some Minecraft so possibly even gaming if you enjoy it keep up the good work and most importantly enjoy yourself
i may have to get one of these for my basement, we have a really old system of pipes and an old water heater down there. it’d set my alarm system off in continuous as opposed to code-3 (which i’m installing down there in a few weeks)
Hi Andrew, good timing to make a video. I wanted to ask you a question or two and get some insight on a 2001 panel if you don't mind. Yesterday I received a Simplex 2001 8 card "Repack" in the mail from a Simplex technician I know who sent it to me as a surprise. I can't believe I own one of these at 20 years old haha. He's got some other panels I'm going to get as well, but anyways, your "in and out" video of your 2001 has been very helpful. The panel is from 1981/82 in almost mint condition, doesn't even have any knockouts knocked out in the cabinet! I'm having an issue with getting the panel operational. I made a post on the fire panel forums about it as well. The panel came to me with 7 cards installed, in what we believe to be the original configuration. It's got the main control card on the left of course, then what I believe to be a battery meter card, then four single zone cards, nothing in slot 7, and in the last slot is a single signal circuit card. (I got some extra cards with it, such as a few two zone cards, a dual signal card, extra control card, etc.) and I also ordered a march time card for it as I plan to reconfigure it to do march time with the dual signal card, and install the two zone cards so I have more zones. But anyways, I need to get it operating first. The issue I'm having is that when I applied power with the cards in the configuration that they were in when I received the panel, the green power LED on the motherboard comes on. I checked some voltages and I'm getting around 30 volts DC from terminals 1 to 5 and 1 to 6 on TB4 on the top left. However, none of the cards are lighting up. They should be going into trouble due to having no resistors on any of the terminal blocks, but none of the cards appear to be getting any power. Interestingly, if I swap the original control card with the spare control card, the only difference is that the trouble LED on the control card itself lights up. That doesn't happen with the original control card, but they may be configured differently so I put the original one back in. I tried swapping cards around and interchanging them and there is no difference. I also pulled the motherboard and inspected it, all of the solder joints look good, no broken card slots, etc. First thing I thought of, of course are the jumpers. What interests me is that there are several spots on the board where there is solder in the jumper holes, but no jumpers. Implying to me that jumpers were there at one point in time, so the panel must of had a previous configuration. I figured I'd want to get your insight, as someone did tell me that with the way my panel is configured I wouldn't need any jumpers for the system to power up and work with the single zone cards and the signal card, but I can't seem to get it to want to work and I feel like I'm missing something. Interestingly, I also noticed when compared my board to yours in your 2001 video, that my board is missing transistor Q1, while yours has that transistor. My board also has a capacitor that looks to have been added in around the area of the Q1 transistor, where as your board does not have that extra capacitor. I tried looking up documentation and I can't seem to find too much relating to jumper positions and voltages. I figured I'd see if there was any troubleshooting advice you would be able to give. Thanks for your time and continuing to make videos when you feel like it, I hope you take care.
Did you get this working ? Maybe the panel was using a remote reset that is not in place now. Thus it's now in permanent reset. Look for the remote reset terminal and install a jumper maybe ? I think it's 2 of the 6 terminals below the control card.
You can cut the conduit pipe guy using a pipe cutter and installing a back box is to install five hose clamps then attach a conduit then it'll be an easy work for a flood sensor for the system
Do the zone wires go directly to the water contacts where the water bridges them to trip the zone or does it have a float that closes a set of NO contacts inside ? Something that I would add is a relay to drop power and turn off the water supply to the washer. This way you're covered if you have a hose break or if the washer drains the water on the floor due to a sink clog. If you did add a water control valve what would you use ? And lastly is this control panel something anyone can buy and program ?
1. since water is a very poor conductor, just jamming two wires into a puddle wont work. the sensor has a transistor amplifier that detects a very faint electrical current and amplifies it enough to close relay contacts. 2. hm never thought of that 3. most would think of a solenoid but problem with those is they revert to their previous state when power is dropped. would be better to use a motor operated valve. 4. bosch's b-series panels unlike typical bosch/radionics don't require factory training and a security key to program them. just a free download of RPS. you can buy the panels from pretty much all the major alarm equipment suppliers.
the thing i have noticed about workmanship is one of a few possible conditions occur that cause poor workmanship: 1. the installer was given very minimal time to do the job and literally doesn't have enough time to do good workmanship 2. the installer doesn't care 3. the installer doesn't have the skills/knowledge yet
@@NewAgeServerAlarm Yeah, that sounds pretty spot-on. That first part you mentioned I definitely sympathize with; you can only do so much under the pressure of a tight deadline.
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Nice install job, that wiring in the cabinet is very well done. I still like how you can service bypass points on those panels when working on them, whether they are fire, burglary, or 24 hour.
Woah, that intro is a serious throwback....I like it!
@NewAgeServerAlarm you are the great grandfather of online fire alarm collecting. Thank you for inspiring so many of us!
Great video Andrew! It’s good to see you back, even if it’s not for long!
The Wiring and overall neatness inside the bosch panel's cabinet is so neat!
Great video I have been watching your videos since 2016 and I think you are great also when you move into your new house you should add a system in and film you installing it and make a video about how to install a system we would all love you to come back to RUclips and I would love to see you get to 100k on one of your channels and I believe you can do it and it would be nice for you I would think to do RUclips as a alarm channel or DIY channel or even I know you did some Minecraft so possibly even gaming if you enjoy it keep up the good work and most importantly enjoy yourself
Very cool!!! Flood sensors sound super useful
Nice Flood Sensor
Good work Andrew, looks great! Gotta teach me those conduit bending skills 🤣
Awesome! This is super cool!
OH MY GOSH THAT INTRO IS SUCH A THROWBACK
When will part 2 of the system test finale be released?
i dont even know why you sound the same, but this now reminds me of the fire alarm system test haha
by the way, you built things really well, i like it
i may have to get one of these for my basement, we have a really old system of pipes and an old water heater down there. it’d set my alarm system off in continuous as opposed to code-3 (which i’m installing down there in a few weeks)
1:41 in homestead fl we call them electric box/back box
*i think*
NewAgeServerAlarm is back!!
W
Hi Andrew, good timing to make a video. I wanted to ask you a question or two and get some insight on a 2001 panel if you don't mind. Yesterday I received a Simplex 2001 8 card "Repack" in the mail from a Simplex technician I know who sent it to me as a surprise. I can't believe I own one of these at 20 years old haha. He's got some other panels I'm going to get as well, but anyways, your "in and out" video of your 2001 has been very helpful.
The panel is from 1981/82 in almost mint condition, doesn't even have any knockouts knocked out in the cabinet!
I'm having an issue with getting the panel operational. I made a post on the fire panel forums about it as well. The panel came to me with 7 cards installed, in what we believe to be the original configuration. It's got the main control card on the left of course, then what I believe to be a battery meter card, then four single zone cards, nothing in slot 7, and in the last slot is a single signal circuit card. (I got some extra cards with it, such as a few two zone cards, a dual signal card, extra control card, etc.) and I also ordered a march time card for it as I plan to reconfigure it to do march time with the dual signal card, and install the two zone cards so I have more zones.
But anyways, I need to get it operating first. The issue I'm having is that when I applied power with the cards in the configuration that they were in when I received the panel, the green power LED on the motherboard comes on. I checked some voltages and I'm getting around 30 volts DC from terminals 1 to 5 and 1 to 6 on TB4 on the top left. However, none of the cards are lighting up. They should be going into trouble due to having no resistors on any of the terminal blocks, but none of the cards appear to be getting any power. Interestingly, if I swap the original control card with the spare control card, the only difference is that the trouble LED on the control card itself lights up. That doesn't happen with the original control card, but they may be configured differently so I put the original one back in. I tried swapping cards around and interchanging them and there is no difference. I also pulled the motherboard and inspected it, all of the solder joints look good, no broken card slots, etc.
First thing I thought of, of course are the jumpers. What interests me is that there are several spots on the board where there is solder in the jumper holes, but no jumpers. Implying to me that jumpers were there at one point in time, so the panel must of had a previous configuration. I figured I'd want to get your insight, as someone did tell me that with the way my panel is configured I wouldn't need any jumpers for the system to power up and work with the single zone cards and the signal card, but I can't seem to get it to want to work and I feel like I'm missing something. Interestingly, I also noticed when compared my board to yours in your 2001 video, that my board is missing transistor Q1, while yours has that transistor. My board also has a capacitor that looks to have been added in around the area of the Q1 transistor, where as your board does not have that extra capacitor.
I tried looking up documentation and I can't seem to find too much relating to jumper positions and voltages.
I figured I'd see if there was any troubleshooting advice you would be able to give. Thanks for your time and continuing to make videos when you feel like it, I hope you take care.
Did you get this working ? Maybe the panel was using a remote reset that is not in place now. Thus it's now in permanent reset. Look for the remote reset terminal and install a jumper maybe ? I think it's 2 of the 6 terminals below the control card.
You can cut the conduit pipe guy using a pipe cutter and installing a back box is to install five hose clamps then attach a conduit then it'll be an easy work for a flood sensor for the system
Nice install but you should label that cable as flood Sensor and low voltage
I hope you add a water alarm message to the system soon.
Do the zone wires go directly to the water contacts where the water bridges them to trip the zone or does it have a float that closes a set of NO contacts inside ?
Something that I would add is a relay to drop power and turn off the water supply to the washer. This way you're covered if you have a hose break or if the washer drains the water on the floor due to a sink clog.
If you did add a water control valve what would you use ?
And lastly is this control panel something anyone can buy and program ?
1. since water is a very poor conductor, just jamming two wires into a puddle wont work. the sensor has a transistor amplifier that detects a very faint electrical current and amplifies it enough to close relay contacts.
2. hm never thought of that
3. most would think of a solenoid but problem with those is they revert to their previous state when power is dropped. would be better to use a motor operated valve.
4. bosch's b-series panels unlike typical bosch/radionics don't require factory training and a security key to program them. just a free download of RPS. you can buy the panels from pretty much all the major alarm equipment suppliers.
Cool
I really like how meticulous you are with the wiring, it's a shame that good workmanship is so hard to come by these days
the thing i have noticed about workmanship is one of a few possible conditions occur that cause poor workmanship:
1. the installer was given very minimal time to do the job and literally doesn't have enough time to do good workmanship
2. the installer doesn't care
3. the installer doesn't have the skills/knowledge yet
@@NewAgeServerAlarm Yeah, that sounds pretty spot-on. That first part you mentioned I definitely sympathize with; you can only do so much under the pressure of a tight deadline.
Is the keypad in the basement? If so, how will you hear that upstairs?
There is a second keypad upstairs
@@NewAgeServerAlarm cool
Well done, great video!
Next on new age server alarm flooding my Basement…
Can You Make A 1980's Simplex Fire Alarm (The One In Your Room) Sound Effect On Every Variety Of Beeping Your Panel Can Do?
Hi
4:35 FACE REVEAL
did that years ago
@@NewAgeServerAlarm oh
5:33 I know what you look like now 😃😃😃
You look like Andrew