I just wanted to add a comment. I finished the speaker build several days ago and they are truly impressive. Great highs and amazing bass. I have CSS TD1s which I think are very good but they are not even in the same category with these speakers. After about 15 hrs. of break in they just get so much better. The best way I can think of to describe them is have you ever listened to a song and the sound is so great you cant help but smile? That's what these to to me on many songs. Great speaker build design.
A little trick for you when you're using water borne varnishing, water it down 20% water 80% varnish & then flow it on with a piece of stockinette rag made into a pad, build up 5 coats, then flat back with 1200 paper then build up the finish until you're happy with it, I'm a french polisher with 34 year experience, I'm just being picky, great video man👍
It took a few months to get the final components from Parts Express but it was worth the wait. The speakers enclosures were completed during some time off between Christmas and New Years and the cross overs over a couple of evenings after work. I am very happy with the results. I chose walnut veneer over MDF with solid walnut faces and they are beautiful to look at in addition to sounding great.
Build plans: toidsdiyaudio.com/product/epic-hifi-speaker-build-plans/ Technical Explanation: ruclips.net/video/BGcHDx2qckk/видео.html Want to know more, all on the Forum: toidsdiyaudio.com/forums/discussion/epic-hifi-speaker-build/
Great build! I will totally be building these as my first DIY set so I bought your plans, but you really should include way more details as a part of the plans for some of us beginners or just general info in the plans: -For this build, why did you swap the tweeter polarity? -What gauge wire is running between all the speakers and the crossover? What is the minimum you recommend? -Are there any pre-built crossovers that would work for this build (to meet the specs needed) on the market? If not, why? -I bought the plans, but no pictures of your finished crossover on the build included? Kinda sucks.
You often need to swap the tweeter polarity, I honestly haven't done a speaker that doesn't have it expect 3 way. Because of how crossover works its usually necessary to change the phase of one of the driver.
@@wadimek116 It’s necessary because most passive crossovers are 2nd order (to keep it cost effective) but, this gives you a +/- 90 (180) degree phase shift at the crossover point between the two drivers. This would normally give quite a deep notch in the response at crossover if the drivers are wired in phase and is actually a good figure of merit for the crossover and driver response. However, because most designs fail to include a setback for the tweeter to time align it with the woofer you don’t get the maximum notch depth. If it sounds like I’m trying to keep the notch, I am. In others words, I DON’T flip the polarity of one of the drivers with a second order crossover design. I do get a notch but, because the drivers are in phase everywhere else but in the crossover region the response of the system is superior in the time domain, i.e. the impulse response is superior. Listening tests have found this to sound better than the flatter frequency response but, compromised impulse response polarity-flipped design. All too often the only thing that many care about is the frequency response but, there’s more to a crossover and a system design than just the FR. P.S. You can avoid this dilemma and compromise by using a 4th order crossover design which gives +/- 180 (360) degrees of phase shift at the crossover. If you also do a tweeter setback or a time delay then you’ve got a design that doesn’t have to trade off frequency response for impulse response. You’ll have much better speaker design.
I was thinking the same thing when I looked at the TSP's of those drivers. Also I wonder what crossover points were used. One other thing to add is the difference in efficiency from tweeter to woofers.
@@buka9330 that's the point of this build though, is to still be able to have that low base without having a full subwoofer. If you're limited to space/ wattage, sometimes you just got to do what you got to do.
Awesome job! You should really seal the MDF board before painting it tho, way easier to get a good finish on the paint. easiest way of sealing is 50/50: water/glue
Awesome job Nick! I love those speakers! Something to consider. If you put down a sandable primer base and hand sand before you go over it with the high gloss you’ll get a much better finish. Using a automotive spray gun will get you an automotive quality finish.
I am an idiot brother. All primer is sandable. I just ran through the comment without thinking. You have to put a primer base down first, then the primer filler bass. That is what’s Sandable to a fine finish. Sorry Nick 👊🏽
Just use Nason 2k Primer and a spray gun. Walmart sells a nice budget spray gun for $35 made by good year. They are actual better than the Harbor Freight counterpart.
You should look into a flush trim router bit for all the overhanging panel edges. Way faster than sanding them flush. Also wipe the excess glue with a wet rag to cut down on cleaning after.
Thanks for showing the sanding that is required after cnc work. Most people think you take it off the cnc and bam its a totally finished product lol. That cnc4newbie machine looks stout. I wish they were around before I got my machine they are priced a bit more reasonably than the avid. Although I have only good things to say about my avid. no issues in 4 years.
I cheated a bit with my build. I had a couple old Paradigm Monitor 7 boxes laying around. Roughly the same width and depth but much taller. I cut the face off of them and put a false floor panel in to get the right volume. I had to deal with some internal vertical bracing that existed and add some horizontal as well. I made a nice walnut front and finished the build with all the recommended components. I bought some good quality crossover components as well. These truly sound amazing. Just as described in the video. I am pushing mine with an old Bryston 3B amp and 12B preamp. I spend a lot of time sitting in a dark room and just listening to the dynamics of this build.
Really good video. Cool backdrop too on the thumbnail pic! I'm glad that you're making another video where you can go into more detail for us folks that really want to see the guts of the build -- I'm really looking forward to that! I can only imagine what this mini-beast of a speaker sounds like cranked up! This was a treat for Labor Day!
At some point I really want to try building bookshelves with the 7" Epique woofer and the 1.25" Peerless Corundum tweeter. Not sure if the tweeter can really handle being crossed low enough for that, but it'd be fun to find out.
@@thomasschafer7268 No. be is not required but larger size domes of other material will beam like crazy if not made from be. what is necessary is I think the bigger the xmax & ofc diaphragm size [for a tweeter] the lower you can cross it but I don't understand how bliesma managed to get such low xo aka fs with lowest mms as fs is inversely proportional to fs.
Looking at the frequency response there is a peak at around 160 hz, that means you can make a half cubic feet bigger enclosure to avoid that coloration in the upper bass and also roll off would move from 43 to 35 hz
I saw your build of those, "Do I need a subwoofer", build. The ones with the amps built in the back. I think it was Kirby that you did that with. Joint adventure. This design is awesome. I currently have two pair of these with the side woofer like Def Tech. I'm gonna add an amp for the woofers. The top half is an ATM of another company that I definitely love.
Kitchen guys or cabinet makers can cut it for you mate, just draw it up properly and ask your local bloke to feed it into the CNC. It’s not much work for those guys and the materials are cheaper for them too. They can also do things like laminate the completed cabinets in your choice of finish to save having to paint them
Hi, I am new to your channel. Great territorial, I built my own loudspeaker cabinets about 40 years ago, And they are transmission line one 8” inch woofer, 100w @ 8ohms Peerless, and Tweeter, Peerless. I did have a printout of the frequency response but I’ve lost it they sound amazing especially when I play something that has been played from a very very end audio system my speakers seem to come alive. Approximately 5 foot in height 18 inches deep and about a foot wide, They are a copy of something that was designed back in the late 70s . So it might be worthwhile even experiment with a transmission line type cabinet only smaller something similar to what you have just built. I am a retired specialist joiner Cabinet maker , There is some special cutters that you can get that allow you to cut something at 45° but with a finger joint in it but you have to be very precise making your panels the right size so when you assemble your cabinet they lock together on the corners. Good luck , I enjoy the video, look forward for new one. Phil from the moulin France.
@@maisonsavvy yes that would be very nice ;) i'm actually building that right now. Two of the big brother woofers E180HE (7") and a nice scanspeak tweeter. Powered by Hypex nCore Fusion Amp. Yesterday was my first listen to that setup, and boy that configuration has so much potential!
why didn't you go mtm mounted off centre mounted on the side. what's the model number of those drivers? what order crossover do you use? looks nice not cheap that wood
Nice, I'm thinking of building these. Not a big fan of butt joints, I go tongue and groove cut with the dadoe head on the table saw. Biscuits would work as well, keeps everything from sliding around in gluing. Dowel holes punched in with the very nice CNC router you have would work as well. I have done the solid wood baffel, painted/laminate sides as well, its a very nice look. I would very much like to see a video on building the crossovers, as the electronic part of the deal is my weak point. You have the best DIY audio channel out there, hands down.
Yeah, with a CNC on tap dados make it super easy to assemble. Although I can definitely understand going this route to make it more accessible to the average Joe that wants to build these
Really cool this video, I used to do this kind of work by hand, Yea I am 81 and in the 50's and 60's we did not have this sort of equipment, nevertheless nice work and excellent video...........
Store bought speakers will cost nearly 10 times as much as a properly done DIY to have equivalent performance. They might have a better look and feel, depending on how good at finishing work you are lol. But a $5000 pair of speakers at a shop is really just a $500 pair in a pretty package. DIY is really the only option that makes sense, buying any speaker new from a store is just a huge rip-off.
Nick, that is a great router table. Ball screws and linear guide rails. Very very nice. I'm jealous. Those speakers are beautiful. At some point I absolutely have to buy your plans for these and build them. All the best to you and yours - Kevin.
@@Toid Good tools are worth crying over the price. I'm happy for you that you are making good use of your investments. Today, I'm continuing building a pair of all steel "pan and tilt" wall mount brackets for my new Emotiva B1+ side surround speakers for my budget 5.1.2 system. Please have a great day!
Yes! One on each speaker. Tweeter on one channel and woofer on the other channel. DSP it all so there would not be need for a crossover. Great possibilities for the optimal sound.
@@andrewl706 The problem with that Dayton Amp board, is i wouldn't consider that a real HiFi option. The ICE Power class D in the MiniDSP amp board was developed by Bang & Olufsen and has been used by many audiophile companies that wanted to get into the class D realm.
These would be great for a small home theater front speakers. I wonder what recommendations you have to complete these with a center and surround speakers.
Excellent. Thank you for doing these projects. Every time I pick up one of my DIY speakers it is very apparent the quality feel compared to what I have invested. Even something as budget as Paul Carmody's Classix2, feel, sound and look high end. I think my pinnacle high-end speaker would be a freak 15" monkey coffin 3-way, somewhere in the 89-93 db sensitivity range. It would be for those times where you just get tired of puny drivers and want something that absolutely hammers.
These speakers look great, and I learned a lot about the details of building them. Just a question: any particular reason for not placing the tweeter between the woofers, in an MTM config?
@@mitsuracer87 MTM exists exactly because it has minimal vertical lobing. Its problems are in horizontal plane. Anyway, I read in the meantime and found out why MTM is falling out of favour. Short answer: more complex, more expensive, harder to design properly.
The walnut is just beautiful, the best. I've been considering using oak stair treads which are a full 1" thick and would allow large radii to be used to minimize diffraction. I assume that the tweeter could be crossed low enough to deal with the cone breakup of the Epique mid woofers. These must be kick butt party speakers. Great project.
The tweeters can, of course some of that has to do with the fact that the woofers themselves don't have bad cone break up until very high in the frequency range. Believe it or not the Tweeter actually determined the crossover more than the woofers on this build. Which I'll go into more detail next week when I do more of a technical breakdown. Here's a great technical review on the woofer if you're interested. audioxpress.com/article/test-bench-the-e150he-44-5-5-full-range-subwoofer-from-the-dayton-audio-epique-line
I would use dado's for the internal bracing... much easier to assemble. For cleaning up the edges a spiral flush trim router bit will be significantly quicker.
If I'm not mistaken, you putted two subwoofers into the same enclosure... I've noticed that the drivers have 2 coils each, and this structure is specific to a subwoofer. With passive radiator, the bass must be crazy good! 😉 Interesting choice! 👍
if you brush wood glue over all of the mdf surfaces and then sand it back to a smooth surface you can then paint without the mdf sucking up a lot of paint. Those are some nice looking speakers! I'm still using a pair of Shamrock Audio SE-2's I built years ago. I'm sure they are outdated now but they sound so nice and natural. Thanks for the video!
Really nice build. If you leave extra material for routing or sanding, make sure you center the front baffle with shims or something! Also let the glue set for a good long time. I left a vintage sewing machine base for a week. It was walnut veneer on birch or something. I might leave the walnut unfinished, it has natural oils in it. Tung oil darkens it so much.
Great video. Nice to watch someone with talent. Have you considered GR Audio binding posts. They would save a lot of work. Why don't you solder the connecters. Why don't you use a little thicker wire.
Having fun watching your vids. But, there is no shortage of building videos showing big sound in small packages. What if one wanted to build BIG speakers for big sound? Got any suggestions for that?
If you want a complete project, you'll find a lot of them on Troels Gravesen's page, some are even free. It all depends on your budget though. If you're able to measure and design crossovers on your own, there's a bazilion of possibilities, big boxes will pretty much always sound big and will not even require a lot of power for that (unlike Epics).
I relly enjoy your videos for being very informative and educational - there is, however, something I have yet to see. I am always looking for a video that explains to the simple layman how to determine the proper box volume of a loudspeaker box from t/s parameters, both - Ported as well as acoustic suspension designs. I, for one, would be grateful if you can pour some light on the subject - whether its a simple wizard that exists or the proper formula that determine optimal box volume. thanks in advance.
At higher volumes, 2-way speakers have the problem that the upper frequencies of the woofer move with the bass frequencies of the high membrane excursion, which can lead to audible distortions.
Every different style of speaker has inherent problems. There is no perfect speaker. When designing speakers, you choose which problems you can get away with for your application and which ones you can’t.
Hi Todd, You are doing great work for DIYers. I want to build 9.2.4 home theatre system. Can you please suggest DIY Kits(including cabinets) from parts express for LCR, Subs, heights and surrounds. Thanks in advance.
Hi Fi was a big thing when I was young, so in the mid 70's and onwards so many people were into it. Unfortunately the Mp3 industry killed a lot of things, including the passion for good listening.
I bought your plans and I am putting the speakers together and I am second guessing my self. Should I use better crossover components? How would air core inductors and Jantzen Superior caps make a difference in the sound? Thanks I appreciate the videos you make.
@@Toid I finished my Epic speakers. They remind me a lot of my CSS 1 TD but of course more base. I had to substitute a couple items on the crossover because a few items were on back order for a few months. I wish you would put a picture of the actual crossover on plans. I followed the diagram but just trying to lay it out my friend said saying my crossover was the ugliest ever was an understatement. My soldering was even worse. This is only my second speaker set to put together so I will get there. Thanks for the inspiration.
Hi, First of all thank you for a good video session. I have a living room which is roughly 23 feet x 25 feet with vaulted ceiling. I would love to built three or four way floor standing speakers. the cost is not that much of an issue but quality of sound reproduction is extremely important. I listen to philharmonic orchestra, classical and sometimes classical soft rock music. My problem is I do not have a CNC cutting machine but I can do assembling, wiring or painting. I need an absolutely hi end design that I can buy all components or schematics with all relevant information. I listen to tube amplifiers.Can you please recommend me any kit or a design. My apm delivers 30W. Thank you.
I like the clean design, also the new style to bring the speaker into the right light. I guess there is a space in the url for the midrange speakers. I already build the Dina’s from you. Can try to compare the epic’s to the Dinas? Thanks
@@zelim002 no. I actually did a video on why this tweeter was specifically chosen for this build. But rest assured you couldn’t just put any tweeter in this and have it turn out the way it did.
"High highs & low lows"... but, what about the delicate sweet and transparent midrange where the music and emotions are made?? Or is it just a sissling boombox?
The exact crossover is in the build plans. But if you want to know more about how the crossover was designed, etc., check out this video. ruclips.net/video/BGcHDx2qckk/видео.htmlsi=HYBeeeS5-qFPtDTB
TOID: if you could just add a statement about the passive radiators, why those instead of a port, or whatever went into that choice, it would be interesting.
You’re right. I should’ve spent more time on that. That’s a passive radiator and it works like a port tuning the system so that you can get low frequency.
@@Toid Ah okay. I have that on my speakers too, It's through watching this kind of videos that I finally understand why I have those 🙂 Thank you for your reply.
how did you wire the tweeter and the woofers together i am looking to do something similar but i think i need a passive crossover any tips would be great
Wow, thats change all my speakers proyects, its a very good bass performance por the size. i have two question, it's possible add a push pull configuration ? and how much power you need to move this speakers decently ? Thanks for share.
If you're talking about having the woofers in the push pole configuration the answer would be no. But these speakers actually ended up not needing much power to power them. I used an smsl ao200, which is rated it at 90 Watts by two and had no issues powering them at all.
Did you ever get to use the full 200RMS x2 of the Woofers ? What kinda wood seal did you use? The sensitivity of these woofers are pretty low Please can you elaborate a little more on your crossover design? 😊 your Freq response looks very good.
I just wanted to add a comment. I finished the speaker build several days ago and they are truly impressive. Great highs and amazing bass. I have CSS TD1s which I think are very good but they are not even in the same category with these speakers. After about 15 hrs. of break in they just get so much better. The best way I can think of to describe them is have you ever listened to a song and the sound is so great you cant help but smile? That's what these to to me on many songs. Great speaker build design.
In what way are they better than the CSS? I assume better bass for sure. Also do you have the 1tdx with the improved tweeter?
That’s awesome. Thinking about building these. Would these be long enough for medium sized room? How is the bass?
A little trick for you when you're using water borne varnishing, water it down 20% water 80% varnish & then flow it on with a piece of stockinette rag made into a pad, build up 5 coats, then flat back with 1200 paper then build up the finish until you're happy with it, I'm a french polisher with 34 year experience, I'm just being picky, great video man👍
It took a few months to get the final components from Parts Express but it was worth the wait. The speakers enclosures were completed during some time off between Christmas and New Years and the cross overs over a couple of evenings after work. I am very happy with the results. I chose walnut veneer over MDF with solid walnut faces and they are beautiful to look at in addition to sounding great.
Build plans: toidsdiyaudio.com/product/epic-hifi-speaker-build-plans/
Technical Explanation: ruclips.net/video/BGcHDx2qckk/видео.html
Want to know more, all on the Forum: toidsdiyaudio.com/forums/discussion/epic-hifi-speaker-build/
I really enjoyed the step-by-step videos like these not often you find people willing to do the work themselves these days.
Great build! I will totally be building these as my first DIY set so I bought your plans, but you really should include way more details as a part of the plans for some of us beginners or just general info in the plans:
-For this build, why did you swap the tweeter polarity?
-What gauge wire is running between all the speakers and the crossover? What is the minimum you recommend?
-Are there any pre-built crossovers that would work for this build (to meet the specs needed) on the market? If not, why?
-I bought the plans, but no pictures of your finished crossover on the build included? Kinda sucks.
You often need to swap the tweeter polarity, I honestly haven't done a speaker that doesn't have it expect 3 way. Because of how crossover works its usually necessary to change the phase of one of the driver.
@@wadimek116 It’s necessary because most passive crossovers are 2nd order (to keep it cost effective) but, this gives you a +/- 90 (180) degree phase shift at the crossover point between the two drivers. This would normally give quite a deep notch in the response at crossover if the drivers are wired in phase and is actually a good figure of merit for the crossover and driver response. However, because most designs fail to include a setback for the tweeter to time align it with the woofer you don’t get the maximum notch depth. If it sounds like I’m trying to keep the notch, I am. In others words, I DON’T flip the polarity of one of the drivers with a second order crossover design. I do get a notch but, because the drivers are in phase everywhere else but in the crossover region the response of the system is superior in the time domain, i.e. the impulse response is superior. Listening tests have found this to sound better than the flatter frequency response but, compromised impulse response polarity-flipped design. All too often the only thing that many care about is the frequency response but, there’s more to a crossover and a system design than just the FR.
P.S. You can avoid this dilemma and compromise by using a 4th order crossover design which gives +/- 180 (360) degrees of phase shift at the crossover. If you also do a tweeter setback or a time delay then you’ve got a design that doesn’t have to trade off frequency response for impulse response. You’ll have much better speaker design.
hey did you ever get it all working?
@@ObsfucationHey O, do you have YT channel? I'd watch.👍
@@Obsfucation best explains about crossover I have ever read.
I really wished you had discussed something about the distortion of those woofers and the crossover point in your build video.
yup. I agree
I was thinking the same thing when I looked at the TSP's of those drivers. Also I wonder what crossover points were used. One other thing to add is the difference in efficiency from tweeter to woofers.
The thd is really low on the epique drivers out to 4k. But I'm not sure about imd and stuff like the Doppler effect
@@blakebrockhaus347 It cant be too good at higher volumes. That's why you should if possible leave the bass to the subwoofer.
@@buka9330 that's the point of this build though, is to still be able to have that low base without having a full subwoofer. If you're limited to space/ wattage, sometimes you just got to do what you got to do.
Awesome job! You should really seal the MDF board before painting it tho, way easier to get a good finish on the paint. easiest way of sealing is 50/50: water/glue
Or shellac/sanding sealer
Just got round to building mine after buying your plans. You knocked it otta the park with these
@@Y4k407 thank you! I am glad you enjoyed them
@ no probs I posted pictures on your forums epic build thread
Awesome job Nick! I love those speakers! Something to consider. If you put down a sandable primer base and hand sand before you go over it with the high gloss you’ll get a much better finish. Using a automotive spray gun will get you an automotive quality finish.
I really appreciate that tip! Thank you!
👊🏼
I am an idiot brother. All primer is sandable. I just ran through the comment without thinking. You have to put a primer base down first, then the primer filler bass. That is what’s Sandable to a fine finish. Sorry Nick 👊🏽
Just use Nason 2k Primer and a spray gun. Walmart sells a nice budget spray gun for $35 made by good year. They are actual better than the Harbor Freight counterpart.
A mini spray gun would suffice.
You should look into a flush trim router bit for all the overhanging panel edges.
Way faster than sanding them flush.
Also wipe the excess glue with a wet rag to cut down on cleaning after.
Saw these speakers in the Parts-Express contest and voted for them.
Thanks Dan! I thought you might like these 😁🤣
Thanks for showing the sanding that is required after cnc work. Most people think you take it off the cnc and bam its a totally finished product lol. That cnc4newbie machine looks stout. I wish they were around before I got my machine they are priced a bit more reasonably than the avid. Although I have only good things to say about my avid. no issues in 4 years.
I completely agree. Thanks for mentioning this. and I'm happy to hear you are so happy with your Avid. I've only heard great things about them.
Great design! Solid execution. A reasonably sized speaker with LF extension. No sub needed.
Right tools for the job= nice tight corners and joints . Nice top shelf job 👍
I love these videos, these give me many ideas and some motivation to try and build speakers
interesting, would it be possible to change one of the Epique woofers to the 7 inch model? would it be possible bring it to a 3 way speaker?
I cheated a bit with my build. I had a couple old Paradigm Monitor 7 boxes laying around. Roughly the same width and depth but much taller. I cut the face off of them and put a false floor panel in to get the right volume. I had to deal with some internal vertical bracing that existed and add some horizontal as well. I made a nice walnut front and finished the build with all the recommended components. I bought some good quality crossover components as well. These truly sound amazing. Just as described in the video. I am pushing mine with an old Bryston 3B amp and 12B preamp. I spend a lot of time sitting in a dark room and just listening to the dynamics of this build.
Really good video. Cool backdrop too on the thumbnail pic! I'm glad that you're making another video where you can go into more detail for us folks that really want to see the guts of the build -- I'm really looking forward to that! I can only imagine what this mini-beast of a speaker sounds like cranked up! This was a treat for Labor Day!
At some point I really want to try building bookshelves with the 7" Epique woofer and the 1.25" Peerless Corundum tweeter. Not sure if the tweeter can really handle being crossed low enough for that, but it'd be fun to find out.
A third order with that Tweeter you'd be surprised at how low you can cross it over. I think that would actually be a really good pairing.
You can try wavecor 30mm Tweeter or if highend price is not a problem best option will be bliesma t34 BE dome which can be crossed lowest I've seen.
@@datdudeinred and highest price!! Question is must it be beryllium??
@@thomasschafer7268 No. be is not required but larger size domes of other material will beam like crazy if not made from be.
what is necessary is I think the bigger the xmax & ofc diaphragm size [for a tweeter] the lower you can cross it but I don't understand how bliesma managed to get such low xo aka fs with lowest mms as fs is inversely proportional to fs.
@@Toid Nick any thoughts of designing a larger bookshelf with the 7" epique? Would be very very interested for in such a plan! Maybe a DINAC v2?
Looking at the frequency response there is a peak at around 160 hz, that means you can make a half cubic feet bigger enclosure to avoid that coloration in the upper bass and also roll off would move from 43 to 35 hz
Those totally look epic. I love that wood.
I saw your build of those, "Do I need a subwoofer", build.
The ones with the amps built in the back.
I think it was Kirby that you did that with.
Joint adventure.
This design is awesome. I currently have two pair of these with the side woofer like Def Tech.
I'm gonna add an amp for the woofers. The top half is an ATM of another company that I definitely love.
This was very therapeutic to watch. Loved it. Thx.
Would you ever consider making the enclosures or at least cutting them for others? Obviously for a fee +shipping/materials.
Kitchen guys or cabinet makers can cut it for you mate, just draw it up properly and ask your local bloke to feed it into the CNC. It’s not much work for those guys and the materials are cheaper for them too. They can also do things like laminate the completed cabinets in your choice of finish to save having to paint them
Since you already have a hand held router, I highly recommend getting a flush trim router bit, since it's better than sanding that sixteenth overhang
Hi, I am new to your channel. Great territorial, I built my own loudspeaker cabinets about 40 years ago, And they are transmission line one 8” inch woofer, 100w @ 8ohms Peerless, and Tweeter, Peerless. I did have a printout of the frequency response but I’ve lost it they sound amazing especially when I play something that has been played from a very very end audio system my speakers seem to come alive. Approximately 5 foot in height 18 inches deep and about a foot wide, They are a copy of something that was designed back in the late 70s . So it might be worthwhile even experiment with a transmission line type cabinet only smaller something similar to what you have just built.
I am a retired specialist joiner Cabinet maker , There is some special cutters that you can get that allow you to cut something at 45° but with a finger joint in it but you have to be very precise making your panels the right size so when you assemble your cabinet they lock together on the corners.
Good luck , I enjoy the video, look forward for new one. Phil from the moulin France.
Oversizing the front baffle - great advice there. Nice build. You're making me want to get back to wood working again.
Nick, I'd love to see a tower version of this, with maybe 3 or even 4 of these driver's.
A powered Tower version with DSP would be even nicer to see🔊
@@maisonsavvy yes that would be very nice ;) i'm actually building that right now. Two of the big brother woofers E180HE (7") and a nice scanspeak tweeter. Powered by Hypex nCore Fusion Amp. Yesterday was my first listen to that setup, and boy that configuration has so much potential!
@@Raller8869 Sounds like it's going to be a killer setup. Good luck and have fun!
why didn't you go mtm mounted off centre mounted on the side. what's the model number of those drivers? what order crossover do you use? looks nice not cheap that wood
I thought the sides were gona be subwoofers
Nice, I'm thinking of building these.
Not a big fan of butt joints, I go tongue and groove cut with the dadoe head on the table saw.
Biscuits would work as well, keeps everything from sliding around in gluing.
Dowel holes punched in with the very nice CNC router you have would work as well.
I have done the solid wood baffel, painted/laminate sides as well, its a very nice look.
I would very much like to see a video on building the crossovers, as the electronic part of the deal is my weak point.
You have the best DIY audio channel out there, hands down.
Yeah, with a CNC on tap dados make it super easy to assemble. Although I can definitely understand going this route to make it more accessible to the average Joe that wants to build these
A work of art.
Thank you!
Great vid bud! Relaxing and inspiring at the same time!🙂
Really cool this video, I used to do this kind of work by hand, Yea I am 81 and in the 50's and 60's we did not have this sort of equipment, nevertheless nice work and excellent video...........
I was skeptical at first. $1000 for speakers you build yourself is a hard pill to swallow but now I get it. Great video! Subscribed
Store bought speakers will cost nearly 10 times as much as a properly done DIY to have equivalent performance. They might have a better look and feel, depending on how good at finishing work you are lol. But a $5000 pair of speakers at a shop is really just a $500 pair in a pretty package. DIY is really the only option that makes sense, buying any speaker new from a store is just a huge rip-off.
I'd love to see this with the 7" versions and perhaps an AMT rather than a soft dome
beautifully-made video!!
That walnut is gorgeous- good choice
Can you maybe do a build with 3 way with 2 compression drivers, 2 8" woofers? Like a Klipsch legend look alike but with better response.
These are cool and all. And your test are great.
Would love to she you send in some of your speakers for 3 party evaluation.
Yeah I would love to see Erin test some of these DIY speakers out.
I'm certain that this build would measure (sonically) much better with the tweeter in the center.
Looks awesome! And I agree, I like a good full range bookshelf speaker
I agree that they look great. But I don't know if I'd consider these a "Bookshelf" speaker. They are quite large. Moreso a "standmount" speaker.
Loved this video . Want these speakers
Nice box and speakers 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nick, that is a great router table. Ball screws and linear guide rails. Very very nice. I'm jealous.
Those speakers are beautiful. At some point I absolutely have to buy your plans for these and build them.
All the best to you and yours - Kevin.
Thanks Kevin. I had to upgrade. This is a CNC4NEWBIE. I'm overall very happy with it. Although, I might need to resurface the waste board 😂
@@Toid Good tools are worth crying over the price. I'm happy for you that you are making good use of your investments. Today, I'm continuing building a pair of all steel "pan and tilt" wall mount brackets for my new Emotiva B1+ side surround speakers for my budget 5.1.2 system.
Please have a great day!
Really well done and good choice of drivers
1. Man Sieht Er ist kein Profi , trotzdem gut gemacht . 2. Ordnung und Sauberkeit am Arbeitsplatz ist das A& O .
Have you ever thought of doing a speaker like this as an active speaker using MiniDSP's plate amp?
Yes! One on each speaker. Tweeter on one channel and woofer on the other channel. DSP it all so there would not be need for a crossover. Great possibilities for the optimal sound.
I have wanted to build a MTM with the Epiques’s and the Dayton KABD 4100 amp.
@@andrewl706 The problem with that Dayton Amp board, is i wouldn't consider that a real HiFi option. The ICE Power class D in the MiniDSP amp board was developed by Bang & Olufsen and has been used by many audiophile companies that wanted to get into the class D realm.
Epic!
id love to see the measurements of this speaker on and off axis
These would be great for a small home theater front speakers. I wonder what recommendations you have to complete these with a center and surround speakers.
Excellent. Thank you for doing these projects. Every time I pick up one of my DIY speakers it is very apparent the quality feel compared to what I have invested. Even something as budget as Paul Carmody's Classix2, feel, sound and look high end.
I think my pinnacle high-end speaker would be a freak 15" monkey coffin 3-way, somewhere in the 89-93 db sensitivity range. It would be for those times where you just get tired of puny drivers and want something that absolutely hammers.
The Dinas evolved is quite Epic of a speaker.
These speakers look great, and I learned a lot about the details of building them. Just a question: any particular reason for not placing the tweeter between the woofers, in an MTM config?
This is probably a 2.5way speaker rather than a 2 way like an MTM would be. MTM would also have vertical lobing issues
@@mitsuracer87 MTM exists exactly because it has minimal vertical lobing. Its problems are in horizontal plane. Anyway, I read in the meantime and found out why MTM is falling out of favour. Short answer: more complex, more expensive, harder to design properly.
Nice! Good looking and well done:)
Thanks!
The walnut is just beautiful, the best. I've been considering using oak stair treads which are a full 1" thick and would allow large radii to be used to minimize diffraction. I assume that the tweeter could be crossed low enough to deal with the cone breakup of the Epique mid woofers. These must be kick butt party speakers. Great project.
The tweeters can, of course some of that has to do with the fact that the woofers themselves don't have bad cone break up until very high in the frequency range. Believe it or not the Tweeter actually determined the crossover more than the woofers on this build. Which I'll go into more detail next week when I do more of a technical breakdown. Here's a great technical review on the woofer if you're interested. audioxpress.com/article/test-bench-the-e150he-44-5-5-full-range-subwoofer-from-the-dayton-audio-epique-line
@Good Goat
You can get Walnut stair treads as well if you look hard enough. ;)
@@bbfoto7248 - Thanks, I live in the Chicago burbs and there is a store, Owl Hardwoods, and they would be a good starting point.
Can also just glue multiple sheets together to get the Thickness you want. I have 1.5" thick baffles made of two 3/4" pieces which are easier to find.
I would use dado's for the internal bracing... much easier to assemble. For cleaning up the edges a spiral flush trim router bit will be significantly quicker.
These speakers look impressive! Thanks.
If I'm not mistaken, you putted two subwoofers into the same enclosure... I've noticed that the drivers have 2 coils each, and this structure is specific to a subwoofer. With passive radiator, the bass must be crazy good! 😉 Interesting choice! 👍
if you brush wood glue over all of the mdf surfaces and then sand it back to a smooth surface you can then paint without the mdf sucking up a lot of paint. Those are some nice looking speakers! I'm still using a pair of Shamrock Audio SE-2's I built years ago. I'm sure they are outdated now but they sound so nice and natural. Thanks for the video!
Really nice build. If you leave extra material for routing or sanding, make sure you center the front baffle with shims or something! Also let the glue set for a good long time. I left a vintage sewing machine base for a week. It was walnut veneer on birch or something. I might leave the walnut unfinished, it has natural oils in it. Tung oil darkens it so much.
New Yanky work shop of speaker builds. Love it
That's a huge compliment. Thank you!
those 5.5 woofers look beastly
Very nice 30hz that's deep for such small drivers
Great video. Nice to watch someone with talent. Have you considered GR Audio binding posts. They would save a lot of work. Why don't you solder the connecters. Why don't you use a little thicker wire.
Having fun watching your vids. But, there is no shortage of building videos showing big sound in small packages. What if one wanted to build BIG speakers for big sound? Got any suggestions for that?
If you want a complete project, you'll find a lot of them on Troels Gravesen's page, some are even free. It all depends on your budget though.
If you're able to measure and design crossovers on your own, there's a bazilion of possibilities, big boxes will pretty much always sound big and will not even require a lot of power for that (unlike Epics).
A dual 7 inch version with a 3 inch dome mid range would be my perfect speaker right now
İ am really curious for calculation and designing part more than wood working. Thanks for the video by the way.
There will be more of a technical video coming forward in the next few days
@@Toid I really appreciate what your doing. this knowledge can't be found anywhere easy. Hope to see that techincal video soon.
I relly enjoy your videos for being very informative and educational - there is, however, something I have yet to see. I am always looking for a video that explains to the simple layman how to determine the proper box volume of a loudspeaker box from t/s parameters, both - Ported as well as acoustic suspension designs. I, for one, would be grateful if you can pour some light on the subject - whether its a simple wizard that exists or the proper formula that determine optimal box volume. thanks in advance.
At higher volumes, 2-way speakers have the problem that the upper frequencies of the woofer move with the bass frequencies of the high membrane excursion, which can lead to audible distortions.
Every different style of speaker has inherent problems. There is no perfect speaker. When designing speakers, you choose which problems you can get away with for your application and which ones you can’t.
Awesome speaker build the walnut looks great thank you
Killer Build!!!
Do you have a seperate link for a sound demo? Thanks
What about going with tube connectors a la GR Research?
Great build and project brother
Those are pretty badass 😎👌👌
Hi Todd, You are doing great work for DIYers. I want to build 9.2.4 home theatre system. Can you please suggest DIY Kits(including cabinets) from parts express for LCR, Subs, heights and surrounds. Thanks in advance.
This has lit a fire under my ass to get moving on my 7” Epique build. Super stoked to see how low you were able to tune them!
LaScala build please
Hi Fi was a big thing when I was young, so in the mid 70's and onwards so many people were into it. Unfortunately the Mp3 industry killed a lot of things, including the passion for good listening.
Awesome btw
Would you now consider these passive radiators from Dayton? Epique E150HE-PR 5-1/2" Carbon Fiber Cone Passive Radiator
I’m building a brother version of this speaker using the E180HE.
That will be awesome!
Also, thank you for sharing the information
Dooood.. You should sell flatpack kits.. cutting that by hand aint easy haha
I bought your plans and I am putting the speakers together and I am second guessing my self. Should I use better crossover components? How would air core inductors and Jantzen Superior caps make a difference in the sound? Thanks I appreciate the videos you make.
You’re welcome to use what you deem to be higher quality components as long as they are within specs of the original.
@@Toid I finished my Epic speakers. They remind me a lot of my CSS 1 TD but of course more base. I had to substitute a couple items on the crossover because a few items were on back order for a few months. I wish you would put a picture of the actual crossover on plans. I followed the diagram but just trying to lay it out my friend said saying my crossover was the ugliest ever was an understatement. My soldering was even worse. This is only my second speaker set to put together so I will get there. Thanks for the inspiration.
@@mitchelllogsdon4254 I’m so glad to hear that you enjoy them. I appreciate the constructive criticism and will definitely take that to heart.
Can I built these in a MTM configuration, instead of TMM?
You can, but the crossover will need to be slightly adjusted to compensate
Hi, First of all thank you for a good video session. I have a living room which is roughly 23 feet x 25 feet with vaulted ceiling. I would love to built three or four way floor standing speakers. the cost is not that much of an issue but quality of sound reproduction is extremely important. I listen to philharmonic orchestra, classical and sometimes classical soft rock music. My problem is I do not have a CNC cutting machine but I can do assembling, wiring or painting. I need an absolutely hi end design that I can buy all components or schematics with all relevant information. I listen to tube amplifiers.Can you please recommend me any kit or a design. My apm delivers 30W. Thank you.
I will love to try and build this.
I like the clean design, also the new style to bring the speaker into the right light. I guess there is a space in the url for the midrange speakers. I already build the Dina’s from you. Can try to compare the epic’s to the Dinas? Thanks
Great build 👍🏼 Is it possible to use different tweeters? The ones used here are very expensive
@@zelim002 no. I actually did a video on why this tweeter was specifically chosen for this build. But rest assured you couldn’t just put any tweeter in this and have it turn out the way it did.
"High highs & low lows"... but, what about the delicate sweet and transparent midrange where the music and emotions are made?? Or is it just a sissling boombox?
Wonder if a 2.1 sound bar can designed with these speaker and the PR.
How about a video on the crossover? Please and thank you.
The exact crossover is in the build plans. But if you want to know more about how the crossover was designed, etc., check out this video. ruclips.net/video/BGcHDx2qckk/видео.htmlsi=HYBeeeS5-qFPtDTB
TOID: if you could just add a statement about the passive radiators, why those instead of a port, or whatever went into that choice, it would be interesting.
I appreciate it, I actually went over it in this video ruclips.net/video/BGcHDx2qckk/видео.htmlsi=oM42QuVV25hf7jXj
Nice built and clear how you did it. But you skipped the side thing, what did you put in the side hole and why?
You’re right. I should’ve spent more time on that. That’s a passive radiator and it works like a port tuning the system so that you can get low frequency.
@@Toid Ah okay. I have that on my speakers too, It's through watching this kind of videos that I finally understand why I have those 🙂
Thank you for your reply.
how did you wire the tweeter and the woofers together i am looking to do something similar but i think i need a passive crossover any tips would be great
Wow, thats change all my speakers proyects, its a very good bass performance por the size. i have two question, it's possible add a push pull configuration ? and how much power you need to move this speakers decently ?
Thanks for share.
If you're talking about having the woofers in the push pole configuration the answer would be no. But these speakers actually ended up not needing much power to power them. I used an smsl ao200, which is rated it at 90 Watts by two and had no issues powering them at all.
what drivers would u use if u were to make studio monitors which had a very flat frequency response?
No damping material? For whom the bells toll?
Did you ever get to use the full 200RMS x2 of the Woofers ?
What kinda wood seal did you use?
The sensitivity of these woofers are pretty low
Please can you elaborate a little more on your crossover design? 😊 your Freq response looks very good.