Over the years I have worked with engineers from NASA to Oshkosh. I have noticed the best and the brightest can explain complex concepts in terms that everyone can clearly understand, thank you for not speaking engineer. I have learned more from you in vedios than working with no kidding rocket scientists.
Einstein once said "if you can't explain it simply you don't understand it well enough”. You've proved again that you know your stuff. Thank you for the knowledge!
Cool video - very well presented. However, it does show one of the BIG advantages of working from a datum, or fixed point, for all the measurements - rather than having each individual step distance, calculate and give them all from the zero x or zero y edge. It also avoids mistakes working the travel out on the fly - easy to slip a digit on the adding up, which would also affect all the subsequent points. If you use a male air coupling in the blocks, it will allow quick changing of the ports if you fit a female to the purge line - but that comes down to personal prefernces and what exactly one has in mind. The reason some suggest using a proper drill/tap bit is because a standard type doesn't properly clean out the cut thread and can cause the tap to bind and even snal - the machine taps are normally designed with an angled flute to guide the swarf out of the hole.
really nice video man. for some reason id never thought that bolting a big heatsink on would help that much. Usually for purge welding I just block everything off with foil tape.
The heat sink helps quite a bit. You can usually make a longer weld with less time to cool in between. The weight of the purge blocks also help position the work for ease of welding. They're really useful tools to have.
Thanks for a sharing! What kind of conectors did you use on the purgeblock, how careful (selecting conectors) need one to be regarding the heattransfer to the block. And about what flow did you recomend on purge agron. Thanks from Sweden
Most people just don't understand how labor intensive custom work can be. I maintain F-15 fighter jets for the Royal Saudi Air Force... they just don't get it... I do what I do and refuse to be rushed into anything. As an aircraft technician, I love your meticulous mindset.
great video. i think you live close to me. another viewer tip i recommend is when you are only moving one axis for a few holes, lock the bed for the other axis.
At 20:30 the purge holes are offset i am just curious as to why you did it that way, if you had flipped it you could have drilled down and been right in the center like i say i am just curious that's all
It's mostly just for positioning when the purge blocks are hooked up to the work. With the ports being on the bottom, the fittings could potentially be in the way or blocked. This is specific to the manifold I am building, so technically there would be nothing wrong with adding ports to a different location as long as they do not interfere.
Your fcuking awesome! keep up the good work RUclips is full of people thinking they know and trying to teach you on the other hand actually know your stuff and extremely good at explaining your self and what you are doing!
for powertapping you really should use spiral flute taps or tap drill bits. They look like drill bits and are desing for high speed tapping. On video you used hand taps witch dont like to be used with high speed. Also you can buy a chunk for powertapping for your drill and use its torque setting. Anyway, awesom videos. Keep making them. Juhani from Finland.
I use spiral flutes on the mill when I do production work. Regular taps don't give any issues when I use the hand drill as long as they are set up correctly.
Hey man great video as usual and awesome timing for me to put it into practice!! Only one question really, why didn't you drill the purge ports centrally and then drill the holes for them in from the "bottom" side to allow them to be central in the aperture? I wouldn't have thought it mattered which way up the purge block was for when you weld it...?
Thank you! Very good question I wish I would have thought of while shooting this. The answer is because of the common position the purge blocks and manifold will be sitting in during welding. Most of the time, the part is sitting in an orientation which would block the ports on the bottom of the purge block. The second part has to do with the options for plumbing the ports together with different fittings. Fittings on the bottom would mean the part could sit on the fittings during welding which could create a handful of issues. With the fittings on top, they are less likely to be in the way during welding. You will see the installation of the fittings I chose as well as the common welding positions in a future episode.
Ive seen them being used but how exactly does the bronze filter work? does it act as a one way valve of sorts not letting oxygen in once the runners are filled with argon? it is it simply a better method than say a couple small holes on in a taped up end?
Bronze filters essentially reduce the amount of flow. Once you purge the atmospheric gasses out, you can install the filter and it will smooth the argon gas out (if you install it on the inlet) and reduce the amount that flows out (if you install it on the outlet)
Love your channel! Since they are clearly sponsoring you, I attempted to buy some metal from Metal Supermarket to support your channel. Honestly, I found it very non-user friendly. No locations are within 500 miles of me. I tried to order from them online, and everything I attempted to select required them to "contact me with a quote". No "add-to-cart" convenience on any of it, just apparently needless added delays. I mean, I was looking for small quantities of tubing, nothing exotic or in large quantities. I thought the "contact with a quote" crap was BS, honestly. In addition to the inevitable delays, this makes it impractical to compare prices with other sellers as well. So I wound up buying nothing. Without mentioning names, I'm sure you are aware there are much more efficient and convenient metal suppliers on the 'net than that. But I wanted you to know, I did try....
Another great video man!!! I bet the expert fabricators around the world are getting angry about you giving away all these good secrets, we'll keep em coming!!!! HAHAHAH btw kinda off topic but what band saw do you have? And how much did you get it for its rad
I'm sure there are a few fabricators out there that don't like the info getting out, but I like to think it is better that people know than take a chance guessing. The bandsaw is a Kama EV 966. I bought it from a local machine shop that was closing down along with my other machines. It retails for about $3400 I think.
You can use the same size and grade as I did here. Just machine to fit the flange. Purge blocks are pretty much universal regarding size for function. There really aren't specifics for specific applications such as different manifolds.
GAH! dragging the file on the edge of the work piece? i used to do it too. learned it was why my files didn't last. i hope you are AT LEAST not putting any pressure on the drag stroke.
so much wasted time laying that out and using your DRO, indicating, etc, when you could have just transfer punched the layout in 2 mins and drilled them and tapped them at the drill press. that's a 7-8 min part MAX
Scotty Mac 22 The purpose is accuracy. Transfer punches won't have the same accuracy as the DRO. It's also worth noting that the video was long because it contains the lesson. In real time, it's only a few minutes to machine. It's also worth nothing that I demonstrated an even faster method than transfer punches in a different episode featuring the same bolt pattern. It also took long to demonstrate in the video, but still faster than transfer ppunches.
You'll still get more than enough accracy for a simple bolt pattern like that. Not like it's an interference fit or anything lol. Just an FYI I'm a 10 year journeyman machinist and run an entire division's machine shop for an industrial heavy equipment manufacturing facility. We have parts that need to be within 0.0005" and others that just need to reliably bolt up and locate, this is one of the latter and transfer punches would be plenty accurate. Transfer punch, pilot, drill, tap.
+The Fabrication Series if it was just for the purpose of making a video showing the process of a simple layout, then sweet, I get it. just saying it's overly complicated for the reality of making a part like this
I ended up doing some pie cuts for my down pipe on my forged 383 turbo motor . My bender only does 2.5 inches max. They Came out great . I never did them prior before . Between your video and a chart I found online it was pretty simple. Have a look if you want. www.theturboforums.com/threads/381269-A-machinist-a-turbo-and-his-L31-GMC/page7
This guys videos helped me allot when it came to pie cuts. Here is a video of the down pipe in action. vid2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/MARK1234SARA/Mobile%20Uploads/choochoo.mp4
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
This channel is just pure gold
Thanks for watching!
That was super cool, especially using the mill.
I used an ACRA vertical mill/drill press. Great piece of equipment.
Great simple, well explained video on a couple aspects of milling- especially the edge finder and the DRO. More please!!
Thanks! I'll have more in due time.
Over the years I have worked with engineers from NASA to Oshkosh. I have noticed the best and the brightest can explain complex concepts in terms that everyone can clearly understand, thank you for not speaking engineer. I have learned more from you in vedios than working with no kidding rocket scientists.
I do speak Jargon, but even I can't understand half of it when others in the industry do it haha.
Einstein once said "if you can't explain it simply you don't understand it well enough”. You've proved again that you know your stuff. Thank you for the knowledge!
Solid gold content!! All the processes are clearly explained and easy to follow. Nicely done!
Thanks!
Oh i didnt hear you say the grade and size in there. I'll have to watch it again. thanks for all these videos they really are a great help.
He's use 304 stainles with 3mm wall and filler is 308
You are Wyle E. Coyote genious!!! Great video and information, thank you!
Cool video - very well presented.
However, it does show one of the BIG advantages of working from a datum, or fixed point, for all the measurements - rather than having each individual step distance, calculate and give them all from the zero x or zero y edge. It also avoids mistakes working the travel out on the fly - easy to slip a digit on the adding up, which would also affect all the subsequent points.
If you use a male air coupling in the blocks, it will allow quick changing of the ports if you fit a female to the purge line - but that comes down to personal prefernces and what exactly one has in mind.
The reason some suggest using a proper drill/tap bit is because a standard type doesn't properly clean out the cut thread and can cause the tap to bind and even snal - the machine taps are normally designed with an angled flute to guide the swarf out of the hole.
really nice video man. for some reason id never thought that bolting a big heatsink on would help that much. Usually for purge welding I just block everything off with foil tape.
The heat sink helps quite a bit. You can usually make a longer weld with less time to cool in between. The weight of the purge blocks also help position the work for ease of welding. They're really useful tools to have.
Thanks for a sharing! What kind of conectors did you use on the purgeblock, how careful (selecting conectors) need one to be regarding the heattransfer to the block. And about what flow did you recomend on purge agron. Thanks from Sweden
Most people just don't understand how labor intensive custom work can be. I maintain F-15 fighter jets for the Royal Saudi Air Force... they just don't get it... I do what I do and refuse to be rushed into anything. As an aircraft technician, I love your meticulous mindset.
great video. i think you live close to me. another viewer tip i recommend is when you are only moving one axis for a few holes, lock the bed for the other axis.
I'm in Vegas/Henderson area.
amazing as always!! thanks man!
Thanks for watching!
At 20:30 the purge holes are offset i am just curious as to why you did it that way, if you had flipped it you could have drilled down and been right in the center like i say i am just curious that's all
It's mostly just for positioning when the purge blocks are hooked up to the work. With the ports being on the bottom, the fittings could potentially be in the way or blocked. This is specific to the manifold I am building, so technically there would be nothing wrong with adding ports to a different location as long as they do not interfere.
Your fcuking awesome!
keep up the good work RUclips is full of people thinking they know and trying to teach
you on the other hand actually know your stuff and extremely good at explaining your self and what you are doing!
for powertapping you really should use spiral flute taps or tap drill bits. They look like drill bits and are desing for high speed tapping. On video you used hand taps witch dont like to be used with high speed. Also you can buy a chunk for powertapping for your drill and use its torque setting.
Anyway, awesom videos. Keep making them. Juhani from Finland.
I use spiral flutes on the mill when I do production work. Regular taps don't give any issues when I use the hand drill as long as they are set up correctly.
The hand taps don't mind so much on a big block of aluminum like this, either. Plenty of dispersion for the heat to keep the tap from getting too hot.
Great video dude u deserve more followers cause every single video is full of good information 👏👏
I know right this guy is on a whole nother level I wish my videos had this good of content
Thanks!
you are an inspiration every time I see a vid I'm amazed awsome vid
Thanks!
Any chance your going to put out a video of the manifold fabrication?
Yes. Two of them.
New subscriber to you.. love the content.. keep it up..
Hey man great video as usual and awesome timing for me to put it into practice!! Only one question really, why didn't you drill the purge ports centrally and then drill the holes for them in from the "bottom" side to allow them to be central in the aperture? I wouldn't have thought it mattered which way up the purge block was for when you weld it...?
Thank you!
Very good question I wish I would have thought of while shooting this. The answer is because of the common position the purge blocks and manifold will be sitting in during welding. Most of the time, the part is sitting in an orientation which would block the ports on the bottom of the purge block. The second part has to do with the options for plumbing the ports together with different fittings. Fittings on the bottom would mean the part could sit on the fittings during welding which could create a handful of issues. With the fittings on top, they are less likely to be in the way during welding. You will see the installation of the fittings I chose as well as the common welding positions in a future episode.
+The Fabrication Series makes sense and I look forward to the rest.... just hurry up getting them done!! lol
+Hywel Rosenthal We're shooting the next episode right now.
+The Fabrication Series good!! haha.
Good video. What kind of bandsaw is that. Looks small and looks like it works great?
Awesome video mate. One quick question though... could you use the purge block as a welding jig rather than making another one?
Ive seen them being used but how exactly does the bronze filter work? does it act as a one way valve of sorts not letting oxygen in once the runners are filled with argon? it is it simply a better method than say a couple small holes on in a taped up end?
Bronze filters essentially reduce the amount of flow. Once you purge the atmospheric gasses out, you can install the filter and it will smooth the argon gas out (if you install it on the inlet) and reduce the amount that flows out (if you install it on the outlet)
Ahh gotcha...helps you use less argon.
I am new to welding and was wondering what size plate and what aluminum grade to use for a turbo honda manifold.?
Do you mean to machine a purge block?
Really awesome video man. Are you going to do a video about fixtures?
Yes. The next episode is about building Jig/fuxtures.
+The Fabrication Series: awesome! I got rid of Facebook so I have to keep up on RUclips lol
very nice
Thank you.
any reason why you didn't just tap the hole with the mill when you were done drilling?
Yes. The tap needed to tap into a milling machine is different that the one I was using. In order to machine tap, you need a spiral flute tap.
+The Fabrication Series i think ( could be wrong) you can pretty much use any tap with a through hole but i see what your sayin
It is possible to use any tap technically, but the chips clear better and the cut is better with the spiral flute. It's just less likely to break.
Love your channel!
Since they are clearly sponsoring you, I attempted to buy some metal from Metal Supermarket to support your channel. Honestly, I found it very non-user friendly. No locations are within 500 miles of me. I tried to order from them online, and everything I attempted to select required them to "contact me with a quote". No "add-to-cart" convenience on any of it, just apparently needless added delays. I mean, I was looking for small quantities of tubing, nothing exotic or in large quantities. I thought the "contact with a quote" crap was BS, honestly. In addition to the inevitable delays, this makes it impractical to compare prices with other sellers as well.
So I wound up buying nothing. Without mentioning names, I'm sure you are aware there are much more efficient and convenient metal suppliers on the 'net than that. But I wanted you to know, I did try....
John Shaft They provided metal for this episode. We dont receive anything additional, but I appreciate the thought.
wow this guy gives out good content
Thank you!
+The Fabrication Series ur welcome can't wait to see your next video
Didn't quite get their purpose... Will you film them in action? Thanks for video.
Absolutely. They will be used in an upcoming episode where I will demonstrate their purpose.
To keep oxygen away from the backside of welds.
Do you have to make new blocks frequently or do you use the same ones over and over again?
Great videos, Thanks. What bandsaw do you have, looks perfect for cutting angles?
The horizontal band saw is a Kama EV966. My vertical is a Porter Cable 14"
Appreciate it.
When's the second part of pie cuts coming out?!
Soon.
Another great video man!!! I bet the expert fabricators around the world are getting angry about you giving away all these good secrets, we'll keep em coming!!!! HAHAHAH btw kinda off topic but what band saw do you have? And how much did you get it for its rad
I'm sure there are a few fabricators out there that don't like the info getting out, but I like to think it is better that people know than take a chance guessing. The bandsaw is a Kama EV 966. I bought it from a local machine shop that was closing down along with my other machines. It retails for about $3400 I think.
Hey fabricator, could you show us the differences on the outcomes of purging and not purging.
Yes.
nice video! backlash is not a factor when you have a DRO
Not as much, but I feel better making mention of it.
a DRO has literally ZERO to do with backlash. you make a climb cut in soft material with a clapped out mill, you're gonna break a cutter.
Argon is more dense than Oxygen... I paid attention in HS chemistry as well...
check out to buy some er32 collets adaptor for r8 shaft, it's 10 time sfaster to change tools !
www.amazon.ca/Accusize-Collet-Bridgeport-Wrench-0223-0974/dp/B00UM6CA8M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1471204618&sr=8-1&keywords=r8+er32+collets
I don't mind the tool changes. most of my work is one or two tools, but I'll consider it if I ever get more into it. Thanks!
no problem :p
yes to build a purge block just like you have done.
You can use the same size and grade as I did here. Just machine to fit the flange. Purge blocks are pretty much universal regarding size for function. There really aren't specifics for specific applications such as different manifolds.
GAH! dragging the file on the edge of the work piece? i used to do it too. learned it was why my files didn't last. i hope you are AT LEAST not putting any pressure on the drag stroke.
Which is the name of that machine?
not the exact model but basically a PDM30 milling machine
Acra RF-31 milling and drilling machine. There are many out there just like it under a different brand.
Just for everyone the aluminium block is 1" thick 4" wide 6061 aluminum sorry I had to watch a couple of times to remember
you've stepped it up from the garage lol
Definitely a change since Season 1 haha. I guess I wasn't meant to stay retired...
so much wasted time laying that out and using your DRO, indicating, etc, when you could have just transfer punched the layout in 2 mins and drilled them and tapped them at the drill press. that's a 7-8 min part MAX
Scotty Mac 22 The purpose is accuracy. Transfer punches won't have the same accuracy as the DRO. It's also worth noting that the video was long because it contains the lesson. In real time, it's only a few minutes to machine.
It's also worth nothing that I demonstrated an even faster method than transfer punches in a different episode featuring the same bolt pattern. It also took long to demonstrate in the video, but still faster than transfer ppunches.
You'll still get more than enough accracy for a simple bolt pattern like that. Not like it's an interference fit or anything lol. Just an FYI I'm a 10 year journeyman machinist and run an entire division's machine shop for an industrial heavy equipment manufacturing facility. We have parts that need to be within 0.0005" and others that just need to reliably bolt up and locate, this is one of the latter and transfer punches would be plenty accurate. Transfer punch, pilot, drill, tap.
Scotty Mac 22 I think you missed the point.
+The Fabrication Series if it was just for the purpose of making a video showing the process of a simple layout, then sweet, I get it. just saying it's overly complicated for the reality of making a part like this
Scotty Mac 22 That's the point. It's also why I demonstrated another method in another video with the same bolt pattern. It's a demonstration.
I ended up doing some pie cuts for my down pipe on my forged 383 turbo motor . My bender only does 2.5 inches max. They Came out great . I never did them prior before . Between your video and a chart I found online it was pretty simple. Have a look if you want.
www.theturboforums.com/threads/381269-A-machinist-a-turbo-and-his-L31-GMC/page7
Right on.
that down pipe would make Frankenstein proud
This guys videos helped me allot when it came to pie cuts.
Here is a video of the down pipe in action.
vid2.photobucket.com/albums/y48/MARK1234SARA/Mobile%20Uploads/choochoo.mp4
i think hevalmostvsaid shi!