Use your cutting torch, when you first start to cut pull the tip back a bit and you will be able to blow the nut away and not hurt the threads on the bolt. Was called WASHING when I learned it 55 years ago. The segment bolts have to be torqued regularly.
videos like this remind me of why I stopped pulling wrenches for a living and became an operator! 4 ft snipe with 100 lbs of force will get you your 400 ft lbs of torque.
oh so glad to see them segments going on. now at the coal company we knocked the tracks apart, and then installed them segments. but please, please weld them again. only not where they was. weld each segment together in the groove. like where the pin comes down against it. we did that to ours, and after doing that ours never, never came loose. the whole bunch of segments will be welded then. there should not be any welds to the sprocket at all. good luck-and congrats on ur subs. u haven't disappointed me.lol
I think as a ex plant mechanic that you'd have just as quick, if not quicker oxy-acetylene cutting 2 opposite flats off the nuts and knocking the rest off and driving the old bolts out. Might of kept you warmer at the same time. Having a larger air line to you air tools will help with the volume going to the tools.
What’s your plans when you have that big girl all tuned up. Maybe smashing some trees down to make new fields, fencelines, or old burn piles. Maybe shaun cleaning up your calving pen. I remember you mentioning that. January is coming up fast. Yah calving videos!!🙌🏻
I over-torqued the segment bolts once on a dozer and stretched the bolts so they wouldn’t stay tight. had to replace them all again. That was a good lesson for me.
Nice work Tyson. Hope your knee is holding up ok. I would almost bet that last set of segments were over tightened then required the bead of weld to stay put. Thanks for posting.
I was looking how to do this for a CAT 750j, however by this video, I was able to take the bolts off by getting them cherry red hot and using an impact. If I let them cool for too long they would not come off. Disburse the heat around the bolt evenly and after getting bolt out clean threads out with air compressor. Use Loctite 277, impact and hit them with a big socket afterwards unless you have a big enough impact. Will have to adjust chain depending how bad your sprockets were. Good luck
Wow what a great show of what it takes to replace the drive cogs thanks so much as I have never seen this done and I am sure many more watchers have not seen this as well.
Good job Tyson , I notice on the pad I saw one dozer they welded 2 on a pad the other one in the center boy it grabes on ici .and one thing get yourself padnee or sterofoam to put your nees on .
Hell of a job brother I'm sure you saved yourself a ton of money on doing this yourself that bad boy is one hell of a machine bro looks great runs great happy holidays my good brother and Merry Christmas man
Just a hard working, honest, humble guy. Much respect bud. I'm also quite the heavy equipment operator and love watching all your videos. I read on another video of yours that you are up in the peace river area. I welded rail up there by McLennan. You anywhere near there? You ever see a Holland In track, flashbutt welde(r) trucks up your way? Anyways bud , keep safe and happy holidays and a happy New Year. All the best to you and the fam&friends.
The sprocket segments won't stay tight because the mounting surface on the sprocket are worn. Segments are sharp because of internal wear on track pins and bushings. His impact wrench needs oil in the air inlet.
I don't think you should be only using that week impact gun you should have a 1 inch drive ratchet with a 4-foot pipe on it to finish off those bolts and use Loctite not lubricant. They will probably come loose in time
Just curious, if the holes were loose, couldn't you ream the holes out slightly, then go to a slightly larger bolt?? And I mean by using a bridge reamer (will leave a slightly tapered hole, then drill out square). Thanks for the video! Nice work.
In the cold start video you made it sound like it had lots of fuel in it but also hadn't been run for a couple months...your hard starting problems might have to do with running summer diesel vs winter blend which is blended to resist jelling when its cold so your fuel system doesn't clog up.
It did have a lot of fuel...but it was summer fuel..It started easy a few more times...and then one day i couldnt get it to fire at all....and it was Only -2C. I topped it off with winter fuel and changed fuel filters... so far so good!!
Hey i just found out tonite we got relatives up there. do u know Eastman's they run a large cattle type feed lot up your way, Dad said there was 2 of his uncles whom farmed around Grimshaw,[different last name] one that lived just around the first curve along the highways and they had a small dairy farm when he was just a boy, but their children were at war with each other after parents passed so he don't know if any of the original family still farm up there.
Put some of those arrow pointers that lots of people around here put on the lug nuts of their heavy vehicles. They are to see if the bolt has turned at all since installation. See them mostly on buses and garbage trucks.
Nice job track work sucks I just did my D3 front rollers and it way smaller than yours. I mite paint mark a few of the nuts would make it easy to see if they back off
You had better tighten them with a bigger impact than that anemic 3/4 you have, or they are going to come loose again!! You need a minimum of a 1" high quality impact wrench for that. That pipe is not going to give you 400 ft/lb, guaranteed, if nothing else get yourself a torque multiplier.
Pads look good. What dose it run there to have the pins turned? If they have already been turned run them as they are. Complete track kits are getting cheaper.
Northern farmer take a look at the pins. Feel the back side to see if they are still virgin. Gould be they haven't been turned. How many hours is showing on her meter?
Could be a SnapOn but looked like a CP (Chicago Pneumatic) gun. With a IR (Ingersoll Rand) stud breaker and 150psi, having that nut cherry red it would come off like butter. If that didn't really work, then you would have to go to a 3/4 drive gun with a 1/2 hose. A quality 6 point socket in good condition and the right size directly connected to the gun anvil and air tool oil as well. P. S. I started as a professional in the automotive service industry in 1990. I just purchased a Case D1150 similar to this one but mine has a 2' bucket extend A hoe attachment and a 4 yard skip loader bucket on the front of the dozer. I came to look and compare a new sprocket with a worn one, on mine you have to replace the whole wheel and am not looking forward to servicing this 30,000lb beast. :-/
I need a job but no heavy lifting, been thinking of farming what are my prospects. I can drive a tractor all day, but I just can't do the real farm work anymore
congrats on 10 thou. cheers to the next 10 grand. I thought you were putting a shed together I'm thinking it was early spring or summer ( hey I'm old ) whatever happened to that or did I miss the video? stay safe have fun b/c life is short
Any update on the segment loosening up? I was thinking that you could weld the segments together so they would form one piece. Not overweld it a bunch but just a little :D
Well ... considering there’s 40 ton of steel there I guess you could say that is ... cheap ? Lol Most guys use a bobcat to try to do what you do ... but your a typical Albertan ... go big or go home 😎
nice video. not dogging or putting you down at all. but it will make your life so much easier if you upgrade your 3/4 impact.. ingersal makes a killer 3/4 air impact. smaller than the snapon, lighter but just as much punch.. idk if yours is a snapon but im just stating no need to spend big money on them.
U might try a few coatings of WD-40 a few days prior to get the nuts off. Anything to dissolve the rusted threads... However, you are making head-way with the torch, just takes longer and uses fuel. . I''d weld those new sprocket pads on at each end for safety sake.
Yup only way to get rid of loctite or thread locking glue is to heat it up. I love the red loctite, once you use it, that nut or bolt is all but welded on forever lol... The blue loctite is forgiving and is still supposed to keep nuts and bolts from becoming lose but you can get the bolts and nuts off without heating, the blue loctite is kind of a waxy substance. I think for that cat, I'd use the red loctite so they can't ever come lose without heat. A one inch bead of 7018 all purpose rod 3/16 on en each end should be enough to hold those sections. I'd maybe warm the sprocket and sprocket section up a little bit to keep the weld from cracking.... A rose bud on your torch for about 5 minutes should do a great job of heating prior to welding... You probably know best, you do a lot of equipment fixing..
Heavy equipment forum or HEF is a good source of info for those old cats plus most of the regulars can look up actual service info from cat. When we get a chance
because they will come loose eventually. thats why the coal outfit started welding them together. only not to the sprocket,, they was welded at the seams of where they met. like one big rink on the sprocket. ours stayed on then-with no problem.
Good job, Is that the track part that usually needs replacing first ? I bet you can not get them at the local hardware store, How much does one of those teeth sets cost ? thanks
Well the first things to go are usually idler rollers... The Chain part of the track or rails...have pins and a bushing around them..They wear out and you are suppose to get them turned and then change the sprockets. I cant really afford to have that done for a Machine thats only going to do 100 hours a year... Im going to run those rails as far as they will go and then change em out. The segments cost 750 per side.
I run a 953 CAT loader with segmented sprockets... it seats bolts and throws segments all the time Guys before me have tried welding the bolt heads..... doesn’t change anything Anyone have any ideas what I can do to stop this issue it’s ridiculous I have to shit down about twice a day to fix this annoying problem
Put a breaker bar and 5 foot or so cheater bar on those segment bolts. Since now I see you looked up the torque specs. Do no trust an impact. Run over them by hand just for insurance. As far as hard to start goes check the glow plugs. There was a chart on those that gave ballpark times per temperature. But if one or two aren't working it will be hard to start, below say 50°f.
I did use a bar and I stripped the head of the bolt. The hard starting is weird... It will start great most times... and a couple times it will not start worth a damn
Hard start might be in the switch or just a bad connection then. I must have missed that part of the video where you said you used the bar. But yeah do torque them up. Run it a day and check them again. I have see those come loose a lot with just an impact.
Noooooo. !!!!! Don't use starting fluid. That's the fastest way to put a end to that engine. Blown head gaskets, cracked heads, broken piston and destroyed liners. People just don't realize what that $5 can of Destruction will do. It instantly dries out the cylinders remove all the oil and causes detonation like you would not believe.. 99% of all DIESEL engine failure or major problems are caused by that crap. You name a failure I can link it to starting fluid. Take good care of that beast. It pays the bills. !!!!
interesting! you sound like you are very knowledgeable! I have a question, where does the pre starting fluid oil in the cylinders go post starting fluid use? another question I have is what happens when your injectors are spraying down your cylinders with this new sulfur free diesel and there is not enough heat in the cylinder to suffice combustion so you crank and crank eventually building the heat through compression to ignite the diesel air mixture. what is this unburned diesel doing to your cylinder and compression rings?
Sorry but that is a waste of time & money if you don't put new rails or turn the pins & bushings. The rails are stretched so the pitch matches the old segments. Those new ones will be sharp in no time. Tried that once, never again.
Not trying to sound smarter than anyone else but I tried that & didn't work very well. Also had pins & bushings turned when an independent shop turned them & also had an automatic welder to build up front idler. He was very reasonable and a really good guy. Cat dealers may still do that but your better off running them till they break through & sell them for scrap iron. (All just my opinion).
I remember when you first started that beast up, nice to see that old iron still producing....
Just an advice from an old welder. If you heat up the nuts
and then allow them to cool, they will be easier to loosen.
Use your cutting torch, when you first start to cut pull the tip back a bit and you will be able to blow the nut away and not hurt the threads on the bolt. Was called WASHING when I learned it 55 years ago. The segment bolts have to be torqued regularly.
videos like this remind me of why I stopped pulling wrenches for a living and became an operator! 4 ft snipe with 100 lbs of force will get you your 400 ft lbs of torque.
or use a Torque Multiplier.
oh so glad to see them segments going on. now at the coal company we knocked the tracks apart, and then installed them segments. but please, please weld them again. only not where they was. weld each segment together in the groove. like where the pin comes down against it. we did that to ours, and after doing that ours never, never came loose. the whole bunch of segments will be welded then. there should not be any welds to the sprocket at all. good luck-and congrats on ur subs. u haven't disappointed me.lol
Wow, respect for you working iron in the cold.
Jedad Ruled doesn't look that cold
I think as a ex plant mechanic that you'd have just as quick, if not quicker oxy-acetylene cutting 2 opposite flats off the nuts and knocking the rest off and driving the old bolts out. Might of kept you warmer at the same time.
Having a larger air line to you air tools will help with the volume going to the tools.
I have been doing most of them like that now... they are seized up from the rust.
What’s your plans when you have that big girl all tuned up. Maybe smashing some trees down to make new fields, fencelines, or old burn piles. Maybe shaun cleaning up your calving pen. I remember you mentioning that. January is coming up fast. Yah calving videos!!🙌🏻
DOing some brush piling and some clearing on the pasture.
I over-torqued the segment bolts once on a dozer and stretched the bolts so they wouldn’t stay tight. had to replace them all again. That was a good lesson for me.
Yea thats true....
Congrats on the 10k subscribers. Your videos are really good and have a great variety of content.
Thanks man...
Nice work Tyson. Hope your knee is holding up ok. I would almost bet that last set of segments were over tightened then required the bead of weld to stay put. Thanks for posting.
Yea the knee is pretty good now....
I was looking how to do this for a CAT 750j, however by this video, I was able to take the bolts off by getting them cherry red hot and using an impact. If I let them cool for too long they would not come off. Disburse the heat around the bolt evenly and after getting bolt out clean threads out with air compressor. Use Loctite 277, impact and hit them with a big socket afterwards unless you have a big enough impact. Will have to adjust chain depending how bad your sprockets were. Good luck
Congrats on 10000, enjoyed the live stream the other night.
Thank you for little bits. Would be some job to replace the whole sprocket.
Wow what a great show of what it takes to replace the drive cogs thanks so much as I have never seen this done and I am sure many more watchers have not seen this as well.
This is the easy way... on some dozers you have to take the track off and put the whole thing on in one piece
Good job Tyson , I notice on the pad I saw one dozer they welded 2 on a pad the other one in the center boy it grabes on ici .and one thing get yourself padnee or sterofoam to put your nees on .
Yea I was looking for my knee pads.. couldnt find them.. so I put a few big pads on the ground.
Hell of a job brother I'm sure you saved yourself a ton of money on doing this yourself that bad boy is one hell of a machine bro looks great runs great happy holidays my good brother and Merry Christmas man
Thanks Roy..Merry Christmas to you to!!
We had a big 8K cable blade operated when I was a kid it would push anything
Congrats 10k!!!
Great video and nice fix!!!!
Good video. Enjoyed the live stream the other night.
Thanks David
Did you do much bush work this winter. Love the 8s for tramping. We had a awsome winter. Just moved home last week.
I hope that with the sprocket segments that worn you either had the bushings turned or put new link assy’s on it.
Nice looking tractor. I prefer a Bull-Tilt blade to an angle for forestry road-making. Good video. 👍
Nothing better then a Beals twin tilt sliding blade for roadbuilding.
Have fun with the track work lol. If it's smoking when you're cranking cold it's probably worth checking the glow plugs.
My glow plugs work great.... Im thinking its a air problem
That's what I'm doing tomorrow just watched your video and it looks like just as much fun as I thought it would be thanks for the tips and video
Good luck!
Congrats on 10K!!!
Just a hard working, honest, humble guy. Much respect bud.
I'm also quite the heavy equipment operator and love watching all your videos. I read on another video of yours that you are up in the peace river area. I welded rail up there by McLennan. You anywhere near there? You ever see a Holland In track, flashbutt welde(r) trucks up your way?
Anyways bud , keep safe and happy holidays and a happy New Year.
All the best to you and the fam&friends.
Quite close to Mclennan! Merry Christmas... and a happy New Years to you as well.
If those are 3/4" bolts, on a 7 the torque is 220 ft lbs plus a third turn. That third turn stretches the bolt some for the correct tightness.
good job tyson congrats on 10000 subs thanks for showing
I finded than you're courageous for to work in these weather conditions.
The sprocket segments won't stay tight because the mounting surface on the sprocket are worn. Segments are sharp because of internal wear on track pins and bushings. His impact wrench needs oil in the air inlet.
I use a thick piece of pink Styrofoam to kneel on, holds up well to all types of conditions. Especially in the winter.
Thats a good Idea. I use an old office chair seat cushion.
How much do those run? Nice job Tyson, hopefully they aren't too egged out/hold up OK. Those tiny beads of weld didn't stand a chance on all that cast
750 bucks per side. Works out to about 83 bucks per segment
Northern farmer That's not too terrible
Yup.. not bad at all
I don't think you should be only using that week impact gun you should have a 1 inch drive ratchet with a 4-foot pipe on it to finish off those bolts and use Loctite not lubricant. They will probably come loose in time
Jump up air hose from 3/8 to 1/2 on your impact so you can get full power out of it
YES... I really need the bigger line!!!
And also if it's cold outside make sure your guns warm it'll work better👍👍👍 which I'm sure you already know LOL
what does each segment sprocket cost? just another surprise money expenditure for a hard working outfit..but then..will save money in the long run..
Just curious, if the holes were loose, couldn't you ream the holes out slightly, then go to a slightly larger bolt?? And I mean by using a bridge reamer (will leave a slightly tapered hole, then drill out square). Thanks for the video! Nice work.
They wernt loose
In the cold start video you made it sound like it had lots of fuel in it but also hadn't been run for a couple months...your hard starting problems might have to do with running summer diesel vs winter blend which is blended to resist jelling when its cold so your fuel system doesn't clog up.
It did have a lot of fuel...but it was summer fuel..It started easy a few more times...and then one day i couldnt get it to fire at all....and it was Only -2C. I topped it off with winter fuel and changed fuel filters... so far so good!!
This stuff is great I really enjoy watching it.
Thanks
Hey i just found out tonite we got relatives up there. do u know Eastman's they run a large cattle type feed lot up your way, Dad said there was 2 of his uncles whom farmed around Grimshaw,[different last name] one that lived just around the first curve along the highways and they had a small dairy farm when he was just a boy, but their children were at war with each other after parents passed so he don't know if any of the original family still farm up there.
Great video Tyson thanks for sharing. How many tooth sets are there per sproket
There are 9 on each side.
Put some of those arrow pointers that lots of people around here put on the lug nuts of their heavy vehicles. They are to see if the bolt has turned at all since installation. See them mostly on buses and garbage trucks.
Yea I have seen those... ALways wondered what they were for.
We have them on all our buses , they are annoying to take on and off , but I guess they have there uses.
Nice job track work sucks I just did my D3 front rollers and it way smaller than yours. I mite paint mark a few of the nuts would make it easy to see if they back off
YEa I think I will be doing that to.
Congrats on 10k
You had better tighten them with a bigger impact than that anemic 3/4 you have, or they are going to come loose again!! You need a minimum of a 1" high quality impact wrench for that. That pipe is not going to give you 400 ft/lb, guaranteed, if nothing else get yourself a torque multiplier.
Pads look good. What dose it run there to have the pins turned? If they have already been turned run them as they are. Complete track kits are getting cheaper.
The closest shop that does that is 5 hours away...and they charge 150 a hour... I dont know how long it would take though
Wow! 150 is allot but it's a tough job.
Northern farmer take a look at the pins. Feel the back side to see if they are still virgin. Gould be they haven't been turned. How many hours is showing on her meter?
Could be a SnapOn but looked like a CP (Chicago Pneumatic) gun. With a IR (Ingersoll Rand) stud breaker and 150psi, having that nut cherry red it would come off like butter. If that didn't really work, then you would have to go to a 3/4 drive gun with a 1/2 hose. A quality 6 point socket in good condition and the right size directly connected to the gun anvil and air tool oil as well.
P. S. I started as a professional in the automotive service industry in 1990. I just purchased a Case D1150 similar to this one but mine has a 2' bucket extend A hoe attachment and a 4 yard skip loader bucket on the front of the dozer. I came to look and compare a new sprocket with a worn one, on mine you have to replace the whole wheel and am not looking forward to servicing this 30,000lb beast. :-/
I need a job but no heavy lifting, been thinking of farming what are my prospects. I can drive a tractor all day, but I just can't do the real farm work anymore
10.000 congrats
You don't have enough air to that impact, it's starving for air. Hope you torque those bolts, because that impact didn't tighten them enough.
Nope... used 4ft bar anf ratchet
@@Northern_Farmer good for you cause impacts stretches the threads. Soaking theme in oil first doesn't hurt eather.
congrats on 10 thou. cheers to the next 10 grand.
I thought you were putting a shed together I'm thinking it was early spring or summer ( hey I'm old ) whatever happened to that or did I miss the video?
stay safe have fun b/c life is short
Ran out of time
maybe this coming year you can find a day here or a day there but keep the footage for a video. good luck
Is there a reason you can't just wack them bolts off with the torch.
I started doing that after lol. A lot of the bolts after the video were rusted and wouldnt come out.. had to cut them off
Northern farmer ya you shouldn't re-use them so I generally just burn them off and punch out the stub.
just cut the old ones off with the cutter, dont waist air on them and if the new bolts are loose in the wheel put a weld on one side and hit them in
Any update on the segment loosening up? I was thinking that you could weld the segments together so they would form one piece. Not overweld it a bunch but just a little :D
I did weld them after
@@Northern_Farmer Ah, did you have to tighten them up every week until you got crazy? :D
Does the new sprocket teeth make it come off the line faster or cut down on the wheel hop? LOL
They were starting to jump
Okay I take back the pipe thing just saw that you did do that good job still should use Loctite though
I was told to use that stuff...It is loc tight
Might help for next change put some anti seize on the bolts
Thanks Tyson.
Welcome
Very cool video!!
Start it w/o the filter.If it hits right off you have the answer.
Do you have summer or winter fuel in that dozer? Or is there a difference?
John Gritman winter...winter fuel is thinner..
How much do the sprocket segments cost for 1 piece? OEM Cat or after market?
aftermarket. 1400 bucks for both sides
Interesting, thanks for the information.
welcome
The cost of hardware being what it is, I too would try to save as much as I can.
I have to do the same process on my D5.
Great vid man 👍🏾
How many sets of sprockets are there on one side Tyson ?
9 per side
If you don't mind what would they be worth. 200 a piece.
Works out to about 83 bucks for each one. 750 per side.
i wonder what they cost 40 yrs ago. whew we changed a lot of them back then. but the coal outfit had at one time 20 dozers running.
Could you have usefully hired a bigger (eg i") rattle gun and larger diameter air line with the correct size socket for this job?
The 3/4 impact would work better if I had a 1/2 inch ait hose instead of the 3/8. That will be another upgrade.
Northern farmer Tyson I think you should have cut/ torched the old bolts off, it would have been easier and faster too, but that's only my opinion.
With the teeth that worn what do the pins look like on the tracks? Have they been turned yet?
The pins are worn for sure but I cant afford to get them turned... just going run them till they are done
Dont waste your time thinking you do a turn, here they will want more for labor than a new set.
wow good job, but the torch helps out. from Manitoba
How much moula per corner to do this ? Nice dozer .
750 bucks per side
Well ... considering there’s 40 ton of steel there I guess you could say that is ... cheap ? Lol
Most guys use a bobcat to try to do what you do ... but your a typical Albertan ... go big or go home 😎
@@pushpushlambert8079 oh the bobcat would be wrecked if I tried to do anything like that Haha
nice video. not dogging or putting you down at all. but it will make your life so much easier if you upgrade your 3/4 impact.. ingersal makes a killer 3/4 air impact. smaller than the snapon, lighter but just as much punch.. idk if yours is a snapon but im just stating no need to spend big money on them.
I need to upgrade my airlines first
@@Northern_Farmer are you running 1/2"
@@fierro0516 3/8
Yeah step up to 1/2 with high flow fittings an it will be right an day
You sure wear a lot of different hats.
I have tons lol
U might try a few coatings of WD-40 a few days prior to get the nuts off. Anything to dissolve the rusted threads... However, you are making head-way with the torch, just takes longer and uses fuel. . I''d weld those new sprocket pads on at each end for safety sake.
The nuts had thread locker on them from the last time...I agree about welding them together..to be safe
Yup only way to get rid of loctite or thread locking glue is to heat it up. I love the red loctite, once you use it, that nut or bolt is all but welded on forever lol... The blue loctite is forgiving and is still supposed to keep nuts and bolts from becoming lose but you can get the bolts and nuts off without heating, the blue loctite is kind of a waxy substance. I think for that cat, I'd use the red loctite so they can't ever come lose without heat. A one inch bead of 7018 all purpose rod 3/16 on en each end should be enough to hold those sections. I'd maybe warm the sprocket and sprocket section up a little bit to keep the weld from cracking.... A rose bud on your torch for about 5 minutes should do a great job of heating prior to welding... You probably know best, you do a lot of equipment fixing..
400 FT/Pound that's tight, 4ft long bar and stand an 8 stone person on it.
I looked again because I thought that was a lot to.. and I got a few different answers... The correct one is 250 + or - 50 lbs and then a quarter turn
Heavy equipment forum or HEF is a good source of info for those old cats plus most of the regulars can look up actual service info from cat. When we get a chance
If the holes are truly egged shaped, are you really fixing the problem?
After taking them off I see they are not egged out at all...Im still not sure why they were welded.
because they will come loose eventually. thats why the coal outfit started welding them together. only not to the sprocket,, they was welded at the seams of where they met. like one big rink on the sprocket. ours stayed on then-with no problem.
Good job, Is that the track part that usually needs replacing first ? I bet you can not get them at the local hardware store, How much does one of those teeth sets cost ? thanks
Well the first things to go are usually idler rollers... The Chain part of the track or rails...have pins and a bushing around them..They wear out and you are suppose to get them turned and then change the sprockets. I cant really afford to have that done for a Machine thats only going to do 100 hours a year... Im going to run those rails as far as they will go and then change em out. The segments cost 750 per side.
Reason for heat? Maybe u had lock tighted them on. On them by previous owner?
Nice job sir I laik it
What do you use that D8 for?
Everything around the farm
I think you are getting the nuts a tad too hot, but carry on, if you like the way it's working, it's your operation
Seemed like if I didnt get them red hot they wouldnt come off easy... I could have cut them all off but I prefered not getting burned lol
Cómo puedo sacar la Catalina del tractor 155 alguien
I run a 953 CAT loader with segmented sprockets... it seats bolts and throws segments all the time
Guys before me have tried welding the bolt heads..... doesn’t change anything
Anyone have any ideas what I can do to stop this issue it’s ridiculous I have to shit down about twice a day to fix this annoying problem
I was told to weld the segments together even. If yours is doing that it might be because your bolt holes are wore out??
Northern farmer they don’t look like they are. Rails are getting worn out though
Congratulations from Nova Scotia, oh yeah seen any rats lately LOL
Lol nope
spray ether on a rag holding up to the intake easier on the engine
How is it easier ?
Your heating up the entire bolt and nut.
Just try heating the outside of nut
Hope you stopped on work on that dozer to sit down and watch my Predators kick some Oilers ass . 🏒🏒🏒🏒🏒😉😆😆😆😆😆
Indeed... and thats just what they are doing.
Put a breaker bar and 5 foot or so cheater bar on those segment bolts. Since now I see you looked up the torque specs. Do no trust an impact. Run over them by hand just for insurance. As far as hard to start goes check the glow plugs. There was a chart on those that gave ballpark times per temperature. But if one or two aren't working it will be hard to start, below say 50°f.
I did use a bar and I stripped the head of the bolt. The hard starting is weird... It will start great most times... and a couple times it will not start worth a damn
Hard start might be in the switch or just a bad connection then. I must have missed that part of the video where you said you used the bar. But yeah do torque them up. Run it a day and check them again. I have see those come loose a lot with just an impact.
Water in diesel if you don’t keep it full
Ice
Noooooo. !!!!!
Don't use starting fluid. That's the fastest way to put a end to that engine. Blown head gaskets, cracked heads, broken piston and destroyed liners. People just don't realize what that $5 can of Destruction will do. It instantly dries out the cylinders remove all the oil and causes detonation like you would not believe.. 99% of all DIESEL engine failure or major problems are caused by that crap. You name a failure I can link it to starting fluid. Take good care of that beast. It pays the bills. !!!!
interesting! you sound like you are very knowledgeable! I have a question, where does the pre starting fluid oil in the cylinders go post starting fluid use? another question I have is what happens when your injectors are spraying down your cylinders with this new sulfur free diesel and there is not enough heat in the cylinder to suffice combustion so you crank and crank eventually building the heat through compression to ignite the diesel air mixture. what is this unburned diesel doing to your cylinder and compression rings?
It's way easier to take the track off and put them on
Lol no way.
roland moellenberndt there is a reason for the segments ie. not having to take the track off!! Haha
There is no possible way those stayed tight. Not with that impact. Not a chance.
Did you see me snipe them all after?
Are parts from Cat or 3rd party
Aftermarket
You chelovek.Na harsh cold without gloves touched the iron
Its warm out
- 20 )))))
The cheap Ukrainian in me would just do every second one.
LOL
Aaron Starko and it would wear back out twice as fast.
Hahaha
mfreund15448 lol relax its just a joke
Sorry but that is a waste of time & money if you don't put new rails or turn the pins & bushings.
The rails are stretched so the pitch matches the old segments. Those new ones will be sharp in no time. Tried that once, never again.
Yea I know...it needs new rails...they say there is no value in turning pins and it actually may cost more then new rails
Not trying to sound smarter than anyone else but I tried that & didn't work very well.
Also had pins & bushings turned when an independent shop turned them & also had an automatic welder to build up front idler. He was very reasonable and a really good guy. Cat dealers may still do that but your better off running them till they break through & sell them for scrap iron. (All just my opinion).
@@paulrose2664 tried what?
New segments on old rails.
@@paulrose2664 oh yea
Should run a lot better mechanical wise