I saw that last commenter. This video dropped into my feed because I've been working on a 130-year-old house for a while. 6 months ago I leveled the upstairs bathroom using a laser level and 2x6 sister joists. I could have used glue but didn't but the 2 1/2" construction screws hold about 80 pounds shear apiece so if you use enough you don't need glue (and more messy and expense). Covered with 3/4" plywood and that floor is flat and sturdy as hell. After quite a bit of thought, tomorrow I'm going to start the kitchen and do pretty much what you did here. The joists below are between 7" and 8" tall under the kitchen but they are sturdy, just not level across the room. Rather than tear up the original 3/4" T&G flooring and using sister joist strategy again I'm using the flooring to retain rigidity and ripping spacers on top of the exiting joists in the same manner you did here. I am tempted to go every 8" but I don't think it's needed with 3/4" OSB T&G. Not sure yet how I will use the laser to mark the scribe lines but that's the easy part. Thought about leveler but no thanks. Just came to say I like repurposing old lumber whenever possible and I like your work here. I'm going to use the same method and I'm sure it will be flat, sturdy and last a long while. One thing I might do is use adhesive on the spacers before I lay the OSB down to reduce squeaks. But 4" lag screws clear into the joists below should probably eliminate that problem.
@@DaveCrawford-jl9nn - I did overkill with the scribe strips for 2 reasons; first was because I was going opposite direction of the joists and second was because I was not able to get subflooring plywood like you described. 16” on center is sufficient for what you described. Sometimes I will set my board I am going to rip on the floor and block it up until it is level then use a compass set to the thickness of the board and scribe the board to the couture of the floor. I have fixed floors that were 6” out of level this way. It helps to have a power planer to help take any remaining humps out. When I was screwing down my strips it would take the shape of the floor underneath causing humps because I just snapped a chalk line on level and ripped them on the table saw free hand. Also I glue laminated sisters on the joists that were already cracked. The solid ones I just put screws in like you described. Be aware also that you will have to cut your door jams and the bottom of your doors off unless you remove the doors and jams and cut the header out and move the door up.
@@freddixon It was 2x6 joists with 3/4 tongue and groove fir on top. The bathroom I stripped it out and sandwiched new joists on top of the old ones. That’s a lot more work in my opinion but it was necessary for the added weight of the tub and tile I put in.
@@coreyfranco7060 - There’s more than one way to skin a cat. What’s your method? This used all recycled materials including the flooring and only cost about $20 in fasteners and the labor was free because I did it myself. The floor is now dead level and stable. So I leveled 800 square feet in 4 days for $20 plus a day to gather the recycled material. What would it have cost you and how much time would you estimate? Thanks in advance because I would like to find a better solution if possible.
I saw that last commenter. This video dropped into my feed because I've been working on a 130-year-old house for a while.
6 months ago I leveled the upstairs bathroom using a laser level and 2x6 sister joists. I could have used glue but didn't but the 2 1/2" construction screws hold about 80 pounds shear apiece so if you use enough you don't need glue (and more messy and expense). Covered with 3/4" plywood and that floor is flat and sturdy as hell.
After quite a bit of thought, tomorrow I'm going to start the kitchen and do pretty much what you did here. The joists below are between 7" and 8" tall under the kitchen but they are sturdy, just not level across the room. Rather than tear up the original 3/4" T&G flooring and using sister joist strategy again I'm using the flooring to retain rigidity and ripping spacers on top of the exiting joists in the same manner you did here. I am tempted to go every 8" but I don't think it's needed with 3/4" OSB T&G. Not sure yet how I will use the laser to mark the scribe lines but that's the easy part. Thought about leveler but no thanks. Just came to say I like repurposing old lumber whenever possible and I like your work here. I'm going to use the same method and I'm sure it will be flat, sturdy and last a long while. One thing I might do is use adhesive on the spacers before I lay the OSB down to reduce squeaks. But 4" lag screws clear into the joists below should probably eliminate that problem.
@@DaveCrawford-jl9nn - I did overkill with the scribe strips for 2 reasons; first was because I was going opposite direction of the joists and second was because I was not able to get subflooring plywood like you described. 16” on center is sufficient for what you described.
Sometimes I will set my board I am going to rip on the floor and block it up until it is level then use a compass set to the thickness of the board and scribe the board to the couture of the floor. I have fixed floors that were 6” out of level this way. It helps to have a power planer to help take any remaining humps out. When I was screwing down my strips it would take the shape of the floor underneath causing humps because I just snapped a chalk line on level and ripped them on the table saw free hand.
Also I glue laminated sisters on the joists that were already cracked. The solid ones I just put screws in like you described.
Be aware also that you will have to cut your door jams and the bottom of your doors off unless you remove the doors and jams and cut the header out and move the door up.
Well done. Great solution and a lot of work but it seems better than leveling concrete.
@@freddixon It was 2x6 joists with 3/4 tongue and groove fir on top. The bathroom I stripped it out and sandwiched new joists on top of the old ones. That’s a lot more work in my opinion but it was necessary for the added weight of the tub and tile I put in.
Expecting rpg, learning carpentry 🔥
Is this guy serious
@@coreyfranco7060 - There’s more than one way to skin a cat. What’s your method?
This used all recycled materials including the flooring and only cost about $20 in fasteners and the labor was free because I did it myself. The floor is now dead level and stable. So I leveled 800 square feet in 4 days for $20 plus a day to gather the recycled material.
What would it have cost you and how much time would you estimate? Thanks in advance because I would like to find a better solution if possible.