The spin around the pin jigs tend to slip when the final pass is made and that is NOT good. The baseplate method doesn’t require any measuring at all. Just clamp and go. It’s faster once the template is made.
Cornhole Collective I tried making this today and failed like 10 times, it either comes out the 6” hole to small or just a little too big, I’ve rewatched the video over and over and measured from the outside of the bit to the hole to pin and the measurements are not right or something. I’m useing a 1/4” spiral uncut bit and the same colt router you use in the video and also I use the Bosch 1617Evs with a 6” base plate.... not sure what I’m doing wrong here,
@@Northeast_Mainiac I believe the way he did it is this ; double the diameter of your base(6×2=12) , then minus half your bit(1/4 ÷2= 1/8). So 12 -1/8= 11 7/8.
@@bigjesskennelz Actually should be 11-3/4" diameter hole. Draw a 6" hole (for the cornhole), then draw a 1/4" diameter hole inside the 6" hole (simulating the router bit), then draw another 6" hole centered on the router bit center. Measuring from the center to the outside tangency gives the full radius of the hole for the template. So doing the math with radii, 3" - 1/8" = 2-7/8" +3"=5-7/8" radius or 11-3/4" diameter.
A lot of people like that jig. I had trouble with swivel jigs slipping and gouging the hole. Setup is also a bit of a chore. Glad it’s working for you!
This is awesome, thanks so much. A successful test run today. Just a minor tweak and I’m ready to make my permanent jig. Made a set of boards following your first few videos. All of the sudden, I’ve got 5 orders from friends and neighbors. That escalated quickly!! Thanks for the tips!
Cornhole Collective yes it’s pronounced that way. Thanks again for the tips. Would love to see more of your graphics work as far as the software side of things, vectorizing and that sort of stuff. Getting a vinyl cutter is my next step!
Hey Scott, at the 10:08 mark you say “the edge of the bit”. Which edge are you referring to? Is it the edge closest to the pivot point or the edge farthest from the pivot point? My router is the Ryobi R163 and the (removable) base plate is actually 6 1/8. Also, it's important that the router base plate be absolutely centered on the router else you may get holes that are not 6".
He was referring to the edge closest to the center of the board. You’re correct about the centering of the plate! Mine was actually off by a bit, and I got a centering cone on amazon to straighten me out. The math on your jig should be (diameter of router base) + (6” for hole) - bit diameter. So for you, we’re looking at 6-1/8 + 6 - bit diameter (I’ll assume 1/4”). So 12-1/8 minis 1/4 = 11-7/8”. Hope that helps! Thanks Norman
@@cornholecollective7116 hey Scott! I love your videos and I'm about to make a template to make life easier when cutting out these 6" holes. In your video, you said your base plate was 6" and per your math/formula wouldn't you have gone with an 11 3/4" template as opposed to 11 7/8"? Just wanted to make sure before I get started. My baseplate is 4" and I bought the same 1/4" you're using in your video (Whiteside I think). Wouldn't I make a template that is 9 3/4"? Thanks!
Do you pay attention to what side of the cornhole top is facing up vs down? For example when using the template and your router do you place the finish side up or down on purpose?
Hi! I usually put it finish side down so if the baseplate does leave small scratches, it’s on the bottom. Both sides will have a super clean edge as long as the plywood is hood quality and bit isn’t dull.
Question... I'm not overly knowledgeable on routers, but wouldn't it be easier to just create a template with a 6" hole and use a top bearing flush trim bit to ride on the template?
Flush trim templates are great and work with any router. But, they put pressure on the bit bearing and require that you cut the whole 3/4” plywood in a single pass. Some routers can’t handle that and the boys wear out a lot faster than plunge bits without a bearing.
@@cornholecollective7116 good information, thanks. I completed two sets of boards using over the weekend using my method and I learned the hard way that it isn't a great option. Cutting through 3/4 at once was easier at times and other times it was difficult. on the first board it jumped and jacked up my board and template slightly. I was able to repair it mostly and salvage the piece. Worked OK, on the next 3 decks. Didn't help that it was my very first attempt using a router (with the exception of testing on scrap - 1/4" ply - with no issue of course). If I continue building these, I will give your method and template a try. Legs are next! Thanks again!
How did you do the math to get 11 and ⅞ inch for the big hole. Trying to figure it out for the tools I have. Or is it less math and more trial and error due to the movement of the router bit?
The math for your jig should be: (size of hole in jig) = (6”) + (diameter of your router base) - (diameter of your router bit). This can vary by router. Hope that helps.
It’s Scott now, previous comment was Hunter and he’s right. Turns out this router (Ryobi) is 6 1/16 so the hole 11 7/8 was pretty spot on. If your router is 6” exactly, make your hole 11 3/4”
Cornhole Collective Haha! I made a set a while back but my neighbor just asked me to build him a set so I figured I’d improve on my originals so I’ll definitely be using some of your tips!
Hey thank you for all the videos on making cornhole boards. I built my own and then built 2 more and sold them. I have been using a hole saw and it was bad. Wondering do you make and sell the plexiglas jig?
That’s so great to hear Larry! Thanks for watching. I have found that MDF is a better material than plexi. I am going to be making hole jigs, they also have rounded radius corners to flush trim your corners if you like that look. They’ll be sold on our website cornholecollective.com in January.
@@cornholecollective7116 I would love one also!! I made two sets last week for the first time and had a really hard time with the hole saw! Almost took my finger off when I picked up my drill lol....now I have 3 sets of blue line flag boards my husband asked me to make for the NYPD picnic!!! I am going to try and make one of these today but I would love to have one of yours...how an I order and get it ASAP lol. Loving your videos BTW :)
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Why not just use the first circle jig to make the 6" holes?
The spin around the pin jigs tend to slip when the final pass is made and that is NOT good. The baseplate method doesn’t require any measuring at all. Just clamp and go. It’s faster once the template is made.
@@cornholecollective7116 Understood
Thank you sir
Thanks for watching Michael. Comment if you have any questions, this can be a tricky thing. I tried to explain it so many times I had to make a video.
Cornhole Collective I tried making this today and failed like 10 times, it either comes out the 6” hole to small or just a little too big, I’ve rewatched the video over and over and measured from the outside of the bit to the hole to pin and the measurements are not right or something. I’m useing a 1/4” spiral uncut bit and the same colt router you use in the video and also I use the Bosch 1617Evs with a 6” base plate.... not sure what I’m doing wrong here,
@@Northeast_Mainiac I believe the way he did it is this ; double the diameter of your base(6×2=12) , then minus half your bit(1/4 ÷2= 1/8). So 12 -1/8= 11 7/8.
@@bigjesskennelz Actually should be 11-3/4" diameter hole. Draw a 6" hole (for the cornhole), then draw a 1/4" diameter hole inside the 6" hole (simulating the router bit), then draw another 6" hole centered on the router bit center. Measuring from the center to the outside tangency gives the full radius of the hole for the template. So doing the math with radii, 3" - 1/8" = 2-7/8" +3"=5-7/8" radius or 11-3/4" diameter.
Milescraft has a really nice circle cutter. Lowes.
A lot of people like that jig. I had trouble with swivel jigs slipping and gouging the hole. Setup is also a bit of a chore. Glad it’s working for you!
This is awesome, thanks so much. A successful test run today. Just a minor tweak and I’m ready to make my permanent jig. Made a set of boards following your first few videos. All of the sudden, I’ve got 5 orders from friends and neighbors. That escalated quickly!! Thanks for the tips!
Nice work Scott! Is your name pronounced "Mock?" What an awesome name. Never met someone with a name closer to my own. Welcome to the Collective!
Cornhole Collective yes it’s pronounced that way. Thanks again for the tips. Would love to see more of your graphics work as far as the software side of things, vectorizing and that sort of stuff. Getting a vinyl cutter is my next step!
If your router is on the top of your board, shouldn't you use a down cut spiral bit to protect against tear out at the top?
Down cut would shove all the debris into the bearing. Ruins your bit in no time and it wouldn’t ride the template smoothly. That’s my theory anyway.
Hey Scott, at the 10:08 mark you say “the edge of the bit”. Which edge are you referring to? Is it the edge closest to the pivot point or the edge farthest from the pivot point? My router is the Ryobi R163 and the (removable) base plate is actually 6 1/8. Also, it's important that the router base plate be absolutely centered on the router else you may get holes that are not 6".
He was referring to the edge closest to the center of the board. You’re correct about the centering of the plate! Mine was actually off by a bit, and I got a centering cone on amazon to straighten me out. The math on your jig should be (diameter of router base) + (6” for hole) - bit diameter. So for you, we’re looking at 6-1/8 + 6 - bit diameter (I’ll assume 1/4”). So 12-1/8 minis 1/4 = 11-7/8”. Hope that helps! Thanks Norman
@@cornholecollective7116 hey Scott! I love your videos and I'm about to make a template to make life easier when cutting out these 6" holes. In your video, you said your base plate was 6" and per your math/formula wouldn't you have gone with an 11 3/4" template as opposed to 11 7/8"? Just wanted to make sure before I get started. My baseplate is 4" and I bought the same 1/4" you're using in your video (Whiteside I think). Wouldn't I make a template that is 9 3/4"? Thanks!
Do you pay attention to what side of the cornhole top is facing up vs down?
For example when using the template and your router do you place the finish side up or down on purpose?
Hi! I usually put it finish side down so if the baseplate does leave small scratches, it’s on the bottom. Both sides will have a super clean edge as long as the plywood is hood quality and bit isn’t dull.
Question... I'm not overly knowledgeable on routers, but wouldn't it be easier to just create a template with a 6" hole and use a top bearing flush trim bit to ride on the template?
Flush trim templates are great and work with any router. But, they put pressure on the bit bearing and require that you cut the whole 3/4” plywood in a single pass. Some routers can’t handle that and the boys wear out a lot faster than plunge bits without a bearing.
@@cornholecollective7116 good information, thanks. I completed two sets of boards using over the weekend using my method and I learned the hard way that it isn't a great option. Cutting through 3/4 at once was easier at times and other times it was difficult. on the first board it jumped and jacked up my board and template slightly. I was able to repair it mostly and salvage the piece. Worked OK, on the next 3 decks. Didn't help that it was my very first attempt using a router (with the exception of testing on scrap - 1/4" ply - with no issue of course). If I continue building these, I will give your method and template a try. Legs are next! Thanks again!
Thank you Scott! Great stuff
Thanks Jason! We'd love video requests, if it's not in the vault, we can make it.
Please do a video on the frame jig you built
For sure! That’s an easy one. About to remake my jig anyway.
How did you do the math to get 11 and ⅞ inch for the big hole. Trying to figure it out for the tools I have. Or is it less math and more trial and error due to the movement of the router bit?
Ah 6 inch base plus 6 inch hole minus half the ¼ inch (0.125 in) bit = 11.875 inches
The math for your jig should be: (size of hole in jig) = (6”) + (diameter of your router base) - (diameter of your router bit). This can vary by router. Hope that helps.
It’s Scott now, previous comment was Hunter and he’s right. Turns out this router (Ryobi) is 6 1/16 so the hole 11 7/8 was pretty spot on. If your router is 6” exactly, make your hole 11 3/4”
Another great video 🙌🏽
Thanks Mark!
I just found your channel today, and was hoping you’d do a hole video! Haha I plan to make some boards this weekend!
You should! Just be careful, 6 years from now you might be posting a bunch of videos helping other people make boards.
Cornhole Collective Haha! I made a set a while back but my neighbor just asked me to build him a set so I figured I’d improve on my originals so I’ll definitely be using some of your tips!
Hey thank you for all the videos on making cornhole boards. I built my own and then built 2 more and sold them. I have been using a hole saw and it was bad. Wondering do you make and sell the plexiglas jig?
That’s so great to hear Larry! Thanks for watching. I have found that MDF is a better material than plexi. I am going to be making hole jigs, they also have rounded radius corners to flush trim your corners if you like that look. They’ll be sold on our website cornholecollective.com in January.
Scott, How much to make me one?
how about the one I made in this video? I'll message you.
@@cornholecollective7116 Loved the video, but I'm with Paul. 😉, How much for you to make me one?
@@cornholecollective7116 I would love one also!! I made two sets last week for the first time and had a really hard time with the hole saw! Almost took my finger off when I picked up my drill lol....now I have 3 sets of blue line flag boards my husband asked me to make for the NYPD picnic!!! I am going to try and make one of these today but I would love to have one of yours...how an I order and get it ASAP lol. Loving your videos BTW :)
When using the hole saw, go in reverse as far as you can on each side. Zero torque. Zero tear out.
Great advice for anyone with a holesaw!