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HA - I made the first jig just yesterday! I've seen Tamar use it on 3X3 Custom a few times, which is where I learned about it. Anything that keeps your cuts straight and eliminates the need to measure is worth way more than the scraps you use to build it. I made mine 4 feet long, and I'm guessing I'll probably make another little sibling sometime in the future . . . One other tip: clamp the two pieces together in the horizontal plane when installing the hinge to keep things nice and snug. Great video - keep these coming!
Perfectly timed. I was planning to make a router jig this weekend. Your video has given me some ideas on how to simplify and improve it. Much appreciated, and, as always, great job!
I've been using the first jig for some time now, but without the hinge. Once the fence is clamped in place I just remove the small piece and set it aside. Of course they're marked so I keep them together, and hang them on the same hook. Your second jig is awesome, and I will be making that when I get a chance.
As soon as I saw the thumbnail photo I knew exactly what I was seeing. The simplicity of it is brilliant. It’s something I’m going to add to my shop as soon as the weather warms up.
I've been working in rough carpentry, mill work, and fine woodworking for over 20yrs now in that time I am finding Metric Router bits my go to for most plywood dados and rabbets.
I've been using similar jigs for quite a while. They are easy to make and work well. Thanks for presenting your versions, Im sure this video will be a great help to many.
ALWAYS worth my time. Thanks for sharing, JH! I have a bookcase to make and these jigs will help that bookcase to be better than it would have been before viewing.
Really appreciate all rhe tips and knowledge you share. It's also worth mentioning your ease of tone in your voice and your calm demeanor make it enjoyable to listen to. Thank you for all you do for us. ScottyD
James, I’ve used a 4’ drywall T-square for your second jig for over forty years. They are aluminum, fairly light, but stiff and will not warp or loose square. How about taking your first flip-up jig and adding a T-square head to it? Attach the head with glue and screws to the underside of the wider fixed part of the jig. That would eliminate having to make the special base for different width bits, and you could just run the router down the centerline, as before.
I’ve used a version of the hinged jig for a while now. The difference is that I made it double sided and specific to bit size. One side is for a 1/2” bit, the other for a 3/4”.
I've seen the hinged jig used many times on the Woodsmith Shop. Still, a very good video on these two guides. Cutting dados/grooves is such a common task that anything we can do to make it easier is much appreciated.
The offset baseplate looks very convenient. I have an extra router base attached to my circle routing jig and leave it permanenty attached. I just switch router motors.
I accidentally invented a variation on the T-Square jig, but instead of using an additional base plate, I used a flush trim bit that referenced against the fence, and yes, cutting through the edge piece gives you perfect alignment to marks for cutting positions. I may not be as dumb as I think I am.
Great set of jigs, James. I've been using a less sophisticated version of the second one for years... but I think the mod you showed us makes it even that much more flexible. Thanaks, as always, for sharing it with us. One tip I'd recommend for increasing the longevity of such jigs, is to simply apply CA ("crazy glue") to their edges. This will make them that much more durable.
One of the best DIY router improvements is a plexiglass or Lexan base with at least one straight edge. With a straight edge it's much easier to follow a straight guide. If you make one with one or more flat edges you do have to install it in the same orientation every time or the distance to center may be different. I made square ones for my palm and standard router. Fiddly to get all four sides equidistant from the bit centers but the results are well worh the effort.
I recently got a cordless router and replaced the stock base plate. They recommended a centering cone but Instead of buying one I just turned one on my lathe. I drilled a 1/4” hole first to establish the center. This video was very helpful. 👍
Your video is a keen reminder that I need to replace my router. It's an older, Harbor Freight model that has a barrel that is not perfectly centered as the collet changes center as I deepen my cuts.
Old cross-head screwdriver makes a good centre marker if you don't have a self-centring drill bit. Better than an awl or bradawl. A hard tap makes an excellent mark
you also could chuck a 1/4 or 1/2 inch rod in your router depending on your router collet and measure to edge then add the radius of .125 or .250 to your measurement from the edge of the router and you have the center.
James... An idea on that T-Square jig if I may. Instead of relying on force to keep the router base plate against the fence why not make a dado on top of the fence (ie. A groove). Then make a small piece that permenantly afixes on top of the base plate and interfaces with the groove in the fence. Hard to explain but imagine locking your hands together like railroad car couplers. This would lock in the base plate to the fence but still allow it to slide along the fence. Obviously you'd need a coupler like this on all 4 sides of the base plate. Also...why not a pentagon base plate for 5 sizes. Heck, even a hexagon base plate for 6 sizes of bits!
Thanks for the video, I love jigs. On the second jig, could one not install the 3/4" bit to reinstall the base plate if taken off? It seems that would center it back to the original position. Just a thought, let me know.
Great video. Can you do a video to tell us more about plywood being undersized. I just did my first project with plywood and was surprised to find out that this is the case.
Can you point me to where I can see how you made those display cases behind you? Specifically the ones that are slightly pointed toward the camera. An easy and good looking way to do that is something I am looking for with my tools. Or maybe a good next video?
Cool idea, but I rarely cut a dado with a router bit. Only on geometricley difficult situations for the saw. Mostly with a dado stack. Then a dado clean-out router bit.
Hi James, As I've mentioned before I'm intending to use my router a lot more this year so this video is perfect for me. Thanks very much indeed. Take care James. Cheers, Huw
I watch all your videos and there great. I need advise. I have a Dewalt 735 planer ordered Byrid helic head. Telling me there is a 3 month back order. My question is can a drum sander do as good or better instead of a planer
A drum sander would require pretty aggressive paper to work as a planer. And you would have to avoid too much heat from the friction. It can be done, but the paper isn't cheap so I am not sure it is very cost effective. I use my sander mostly for highly figured materials or very thin materials.
Wouldn’t you be able to use both a 3/4” bit and then an undersized plywood bit that’s cut to a slightly lower depth to give you both marking references?
Also if the baseplate has a flat don't use it, use the rounded part , it always will ride at a single point, the flat can push it out if you don't ride smooth.
I have resorted to finishing edges of large solid wood glue up panels with a router when my table saw capacity is exceeded. It is irksome to cobble together edge guides and determine correct offset dimensions. You have demonstrated good practice for dado cuts, but I intend to standardize edge work guides based on your dado guide suggestions. Thank you.
I love how you called a metric thickness plywood an "undersized" thickness. 23/32" is actually 18mm - pretty standard thickness value across Europe :-)
@stumpy nubs, have you ever discussed why plywood is undersized? What's the reason behind that? Is it something similar to why dimensional lumber's sizes are different?
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This video made me giddy with how clever these jigs are! Especially love the second one.
HA - I made the first jig just yesterday! I've seen Tamar use it on 3X3 Custom a few times, which is where I learned about it. Anything that keeps your cuts straight and eliminates the need to measure is worth way more than the scraps you use to build it. I made mine 4 feet long, and I'm guessing I'll probably make another little sibling sometime in the future . . .
One other tip: clamp the two pieces together in the horizontal plane when installing the hinge to keep things nice and snug.
Great video - keep these coming!
You could also build one as a circular saw guide.
Perfectly timed. I was planning to make a router jig this weekend. Your video has given me some ideas on how to simplify and improve it. Much appreciated, and, as always, great job!
I don’t own a router.
I've been using the first jig for some time now, but without the hinge. Once the fence is clamped in place I just remove the small piece and set it aside. Of course they're marked so I keep them together, and hang them on the same hook.
Your second jig is awesome, and I will be making that when I get a chance.
As soon as I saw the thumbnail photo I knew exactly what I was seeing. The simplicity of it is brilliant. It’s something I’m going to add to my shop as soon as the weather warms up.
I built a similar hinged jig a couple of years ago. It's become the most used jig in the shop. The T-jig is a great idea. Thanks
The hinged jig is a must have. And the t-square one, with the offset baseplate is genius. Never seen that one. It's going in my list to make!
I've been working in rough carpentry, mill work, and fine woodworking for over 20yrs now in that time I am finding Metric Router bits my go to for most plywood dados and rabbets.
I don't even *LIKE* woodworking, and I enjoy your channel. Kudos.
The first jig I have previously seen on other videos. HOWEVER, the second seems more versatile. Thanks for sharing that with us.
I finally built the first jig. I don't use it a lot, but boy, am I glad to have it when I do! It make things quick, accurate and easy. Thanks James!
I've been using similar jigs for quite a while. They are easy to make and work well. Thanks for presenting your versions, Im sure this video will be a great help to many.
The template at 3:47 was designed by Serge Duclos, from Quebec. He ‘s created dozens of clever jigs over the years.
I've made the piano hinge jig. It is probably the best jig. So easy to make and so easy to use. And it is a huge time saver
What a terrific jig!!! Works absolutely perfect
ALWAYS worth my time. Thanks for sharing, JH! I have a bookcase to make and these jigs will help that bookcase to be better than it would have been before viewing.
Really appreciate all rhe tips and knowledge you share. It's also worth mentioning your ease of tone in your voice and your calm demeanor make it enjoyable to listen to. Thank you for all you do for us. ScottyD
On my to-do list! I plan to make two of the T-square jig, one for undersized bits and the other for normal bits.
James, I’ve used a 4’ drywall T-square for your second jig for over forty years. They are aluminum, fairly light, but stiff and will not warp or loose square.
How about taking your first flip-up jig and adding a T-square head to it? Attach the head with glue and screws to the underside of the wider fixed part of the jig. That would eliminate having to make the special base for different width bits, and you could just run the router down the centerline, as before.
James, this is a game changer for me. Thanks for the tip appreciated. Billy from Scotland UK.
The 2nd jig is, in my opinion, the better jig. Love the sizing cuts for alignment! Once I get a shop, I'm making this!
I like this channel so much I don't even own a hand held router but I still watched and liked the video.
Very informative, I never knew that they made "Under Sized Plywood bits".... thank you for sharing. Love your videos. 👍👍👍
Thanks again bumpy snubs. I’m making jigs tomorrow for doors. I’ll definitely try the first one.
I’ve used a version of the hinged jig for a while now. The difference is that I made it double sided and specific to bit size. One side is for a 1/2” bit, the other for a 3/4”.
Thanks for sharing this James. Will have to have them for the boys. Stay safe and keep up the great tips and videos. Fred.
I've seen the hinged jig used many times on the Woodsmith Shop. Still, a very good video on these two guides. Cutting dados/grooves is such a common task that anything we can do to make it easier is much appreciated.
The offset baseplate looks very convenient. I have an extra router base attached to my circle routing jig and leave it permanenty attached. I just switch router motors.
Excellent video. I love the efficiency in your vocabulary.
You are a wood working master. Thanks for all the great tips and tricks.
I got one of those cones and I had no idea what it was for. Thank you
Why aren't there over 1 million subscribers? Your channel is gold James.
I adapted an aluminum t-square (originally used for drywall) for similar use with my circular saw
I just saw a video yesterday by Tamar from 3x3 where she used that first jig. It’s GENIUS!
I accidentally invented a variation on the T-Square jig, but instead of using an additional base plate, I used a flush trim bit that referenced against the fence, and yes, cutting through the edge piece gives you perfect alignment to marks for cutting positions. I may not be as dumb as I think I am.
ive been wanting to make the first jig since i saw it on 3x3 customs a while back. just havent gotten the motivation to do it yet.
Great set of jigs, James. I've been using a less sophisticated version of the second one for years... but I think the mod you showed us makes it even that much more flexible. Thanaks, as always, for sharing it with us.
One tip I'd recommend for increasing the longevity of such jigs, is to simply apply CA ("crazy glue") to their edges. This will make them that much more durable.
Be right back. I’m going to go in my shop and work until you’re needed again.
This is going to be a BIG time saver for some projects I have coming up.
The second jig is clever as hell.
That first jig could also be used with a circular saw, I think I will make one for it.
I've always liked all your shop made jigs n tools! You my boy blue
Very clever jigs will be making them both.
Clear, thorough, informative: all aces.
Informative as always. I've honestly learned so much from this channel.
One of the best DIY router improvements is a plexiglass or Lexan base with at least one straight edge. With a straight edge it's much easier to follow a straight guide. If you make one with one or more flat edges you do have to install it in the same orientation every time or the distance to center may be different. I made square ones for my palm and standard router. Fiddly to get all four sides equidistant from the bit centers but the results are well worh the effort.
I recently got a cordless router and replaced the stock base plate. They recommended a centering cone but Instead of buying one I just turned one on my lathe. I drilled a 1/4” hole first to establish the center. This video was very helpful. 👍
Your video is a keen reminder that I need to replace my router. It's an older, Harbor Freight model that has a barrel that is not perfectly centered as the collet changes center as I deepen my cuts.
What an amazing jig! Thank you for sharing
Old cross-head screwdriver makes a good centre marker if you don't have a self-centring drill bit. Better than an awl or bradawl. A hard tap makes an excellent mark
Genius! One of my new favorite videos!
you also could chuck a 1/4 or 1/2 inch rod in your router depending on your router collet and measure to edge then add the radius of .125 or .250 to your measurement from the edge of the router and you have the center.
James... An idea on that T-Square jig if I may. Instead of relying on force to keep the router base plate against the fence why not make a dado on top of the fence (ie. A groove). Then make a small piece that permenantly afixes on top of the base plate and interfaces with the groove in the fence. Hard to explain but imagine locking your hands together like railroad car couplers.
This would lock in the base plate to the fence but still allow it to slide along the fence.
Obviously you'd need a coupler like this on all 4 sides of the base plate.
Also...why not a pentagon base plate for 5 sizes. Heck, even a hexagon base plate for 6 sizes of bits!
Good info, as always. A drywall T-square will work for the shop-made version, provided it's an accurate 90 degrees.
You might not want to route a groove through it. :)
@@halsonger1317 Oh yeah, Forgot about that part.
@@halsonger1317 or, then again you might want to route a notch in it and use it just like James shows. That’s how I use mine.
Have you seen where the Lady makes jigs from metal locking plates ? It can b mounted on the wall to use for cutting
You are one clever man, seriously
You could use a countersink and the 1/4 collet to find center too.
Thanks for the video, I love jigs. On the second jig, could one not install the 3/4" bit to reinstall the base plate if taken off? It seems that would center it back to the original position. Just a thought, let me know.
Left to right keeps it tight👍
Simple, but superb!
As usual an incredibly useful video. Great timing too!
Really excellent jigs, James! Thanks a lot! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great lesson. Thanks James.
Great video. Can you do a video to tell us more about plywood being undersized. I just did my first project with plywood and was surprised to find out that this is the case.
Great jigs, looking forward to doing more router work in the near future and these will definitely be on my short list.
A couple of really smart jigs, but that last one was money.
you are an incredible clever guy!!
Can you point me to where I can see how you made those display cases behind you? Specifically the ones that are slightly pointed toward the camera. An easy and good looking way to do that is something I am looking for with my tools. Or maybe a good next video?
Cool idea, but I rarely cut a dado with a router bit. Only on geometricley difficult situations for the saw. Mostly with a dado stack. Then a dado clean-out router bit.
Excellent jig at the end! Thanks bro!
I like your hinged router jig, and it seems to me, that the same type of jig could work for a circular saw or a saber saw.
Another fabulous and very useful video... Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and helpful tips with us! Ten thumbs up!
Good idea. Remember if you sharpen the router bit it changes the width of the bit
That second thing is old... It used to hang in my Grandpa's workshop at the farm! :D
Another excellent video Jim!!!
Hi James, As I've mentioned before I'm intending to use my router a lot more this year so this video is perfect for me. Thanks very much indeed.
Take care James.
Cheers, Huw
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
I watch all your videos and there great. I need advise. I have a Dewalt 735 planer ordered Byrid helic head. Telling me there is a 3 month back order. My question is can a drum sander do as good or better instead of a planer
A drum sander would require pretty aggressive paper to work as a planer. And you would have to avoid too much heat from the friction. It can be done, but the paper isn't cheap so I am not sure it is very cost effective. I use my sander mostly for highly figured materials or very thin materials.
As well as the router bit centering tool, Trend sell a baseplate centering tool.
Great jigs. Thanks a lot.
Could you (should you) use one of these guides for use with a miter lock bit?
Wouldn’t you be able to use both a 3/4” bit and then an undersized plywood bit that’s cut to a slightly lower depth to give you both marking references?
Also if the baseplate has a flat don't use it, use the rounded part , it always will ride at a single point, the flat can push it out if you don't ride smooth.
Thank you Sir. You are a MASTER!
Thanks. I really appreciate useful jigs.
Awesome tips for router guides
Thank You
I have resorted to finishing edges of large solid wood glue up panels with a router when my table saw capacity is exceeded. It is irksome to cobble together edge guides and determine correct offset dimensions. You have demonstrated good practice for dado cuts, but I intend to standardize edge work guides based on your dado guide suggestions.
Thank you.
Love your work 👍
Thank you James very useful !
I love how you called a metric thickness plywood an "undersized" thickness. 23/32" is actually 18mm - pretty standard thickness value across Europe :-)
Amazing tips, I might actually use my router again ;) thanks 😊
As always,a great video.
Nice. Thank you!
Really nice little video! Thanks a lot!
Clever, grasshopper.
you could also use a 1/4 or 1/2 dowel to find the center
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Another great vid. Thanks!
@stumpy nubs, have you ever discussed why plywood is undersized? What's the reason behind that? Is it something similar to why dimensional lumber's sizes are different?
It's metric. It's only "undersized" from an American perspective :)