#85 Seven Ways to Tell If Firewood Is Dry
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- Опубликовано: 18 окт 2017
- In this video I talk about seven different ways to determine if your firewood is seasoned and ready to burn. This video is for everyone with a fireplace, wood burner, insert, outdoor boiler, or even outdoor fire ring. This video should be most helpful for anyone that buys their firewood.
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Amazon Affiliate Links , Contact Info, And Facebook Link
Link for Moisture Meter
amzn.to/2xQfwU6
Link for Fiskars 28” Splitting Axe
amzn.to/2x6Qjob
Link to our Facebook Page
facebook.com/Outdoors-With-The-Morgans-1326440487390931/
outdoorswiththemorgans@gmail.com
Look up buckin billy Ray on RUclips he has a awesome youtube channel he will set you up with a axe or a axe set that I the best just check him out and look at his axes you won't be disappointed for sure he makes them and sells them
I burn Pine cause its dead from the pine beetles and its all over laying dry and dead or standing dead and i burn Fir and some spruce. BC interior.
Mike Hunt never heard of that but I split and burn hard woods
No real hard woods in the area to split or burn up here and if there is they are far and few.
Mike Hunt yeah gota work with what you have but pine trees turn to lighter knot (Fatwood) and that's not best to burn in doors
1. Cut, split, and stack your own firewood
2. Bark falling off
3. Color
4. Cracking on ends
5. Weight
6. Sound
7. Moisture meter
Just want to say thanks. We just bought a property in the Santa Fe area and we have wood burning stoves. Have had a fire place for years but never for home heating, just for fun. Always trusted the wood person and he seemed to do it right. Now, moving to SF, I need to educate myself as I will be cutting, splitting, and stacking it for our cabins. Lots to learn but also looking forward to the education!
Best detail wood burning video that I have watched. Thanks for sharing.
This is excellent information!! Been burning and cutting wood for my remote cabin in Southeast Oklahoma for 5 years and this helps so much to make sense of it all.
Hey Mike, Happy Birthday!! I live in south central PA between Carlisle and Gettysburg... burn mostly cherry and maple and some oak from my 5 acres .... I also buy wood locally, and you are right, you have to be careful not to get scammed.
Northwestern Ontario, Canada. Most people burn Jack Pine, White Birch, Aspen (Poplar). Less abundant trees available are Ash and Maple. There's a definite sense of pride planning ahead and having nice dry firewood. It's a great renewable resource, and enjoyable heat! Keep the awesome content comin!
Burning cherry amazes me. It's such a beautiful wood to mill and build things with.
Thank you for this video..very well done. We just bought a load of firewood and we were trying to determine if it was seasoned enough. Great tips, very helpful.
I'm right on the pacific, my first load in the stove is cedar burns hot & fast. The rest of the day is fir. great channel
Very informative, I have a built-in fire pit on my concrete patio and burn to have a little heat and enjoy being outside with the family or friends. I've started buying from local gas stations and now moving on to buying cords of wood and stacking, some of what you mentioned I knew commonly however reassuring and thanks for taking time to make a video to share more information.
Great bit of information. I never really thought of checking the moisture content. I don't burn it for my main heat, but I do burn it in a fireplace every once in a while.
Really like these videos, thank you for sharing. I do have one suggestion for using the meter. It's best to split the piece first and take the reading on the freshly exposed side. A lot of the time the outside quarter inch or so will give you a really low reading because it's very exposed where as the inside can give you a reading a fair amount higher, and that higher number I like to think of as the "real" number since it gives the moisture content of the inside of the piece. Just my two cents
Thanks again mike.
Jason from Michigan, a fellow tractor/firewood/landowner/deer hunter guy
Excellent info. Fits very well wirh my experience. I find weight over time and checking / cracks the best and most reliable indicators.
I'm new and watching your videos backwards. Love sharing with my grandson. Love to show him that work is fun. ❤
Nice info. Very basic to most but still very helpful to anyone not in the "wood business". Thanks
Very helpful man. Thanks for the tips. I️ have a mini forest in my backyard in VA and my neighbor cut some trees down for me about 10 months ago. Planning on building a fire pit to burn it all but didn’t know what to look for when choosing which wood to burn
We have mostly red gum or mountain ash in My area of Australia. You remind me of Bruce Willis
Nice video and good advice, thank you.
I'm in the northwest of England and I mostly burn Ash but I also burn Cherry & Beech. Beech burns well even if not fully dry, maybe a little too fast if well seasoned.
We have a tree local to us called a Manchester Poplar and it's almost flameproof - no point in even attempting to season it - best left of the floor to rot and feed the bugs & critters.
First of all I have just started following your videos - interesting and educational from time to time. Should perhaps mention that I´m from Denmark and just within the last couple - 3 years started to fall trees and cutting firewood, not on a big scale like you but mainly for our summerhouse that we actually use year around, and just about the only source of heat is firewood. You were interested in what we were using for firewood, and here in Denmark it is mostly Scotch Pine and Spruce but also Beech and Stem Oak. Can come across a Lime Tree or an Ash from time to time. Due to the moist climate in Denmark we normally let Pine and Spruce dry for about a year before it´s ready to use and for Oak and Beech it´s about two years at least and that is all cut, split and stacked. We also use Birch from time to time but mostly in open fireplaces or for a small bonfire, as it burns so fine, but much value as a heat source it´s not :-)
Very helpful thanks! Our last load of wood delivered in the summer was supposed to have been seasoned and ready for this winter, but obviously isn't!! I wish I'd have seen your video before!
We live in the French alps and use a mix of wood types in a large room stove. We do use pine, but always mixed with a harder wood at a rate of 5 to 10%. Burning pine only leaves sticky deposits in the chimney which is difficult to remove and is dangerous longer term.
Watching this video from the Netherlands. I don't burn that much wood, but I have burned European Alder (Alnus glutinosa) and right now I've a pile of European Oak (Quercus robur) in my woodshed.
Another great one Mike. We are spoilt on our place in Aus too with a few major sub species of Gum. There’s hardwood and then there’s HARDwood when it comes to gum. We primarily use Stringy Bark gum which usually in dry enough in about two seasons when split. We also have two species called Yellow Box and Ironbark - both super hard, spend half your life sharpening chains! They burn very hot and don’t burn as quick as the softer. We have some windrows of Yellow Box my father pushed out and stacked with an old D8 in the late 1960s - logs about 20inch diameter that are still green in the centre and rock solid!
Great teaching video! I assumed if the tree was dead and on the ground for a while the wood would be dry! Now I know why my fire was smoking so much. I will get the moisture meter. thanks
We really like your variety of topics, and this one really is in due season. Always well done and the topics are well covered. A Very Happy Birthday to you Mike!
Hey Mike, happy birthday! Love the videos. Learned something new with this one! Keep up the great work!!
Moisture meter is probably your best bet. The sound, clinking together, maybe. But I got to tell your weight example with different sizes of wood, not a good gauge. Thanks for the video
Hi Mike, I'm new to watching and commenting about your videos. They are entertaining and informative. I have been doing the same kinds of projects and coming up with some similar ideas for about 25 years now. On this video I want to share an idea I came up with on using the meter. If I have a piece of wood I want to check without fresh splitting it, I use my cordless drill to screw 2 wood screws into the center of the piece the same distance apart as the meter spikes and touch the spikes to the screws. This gives you a much different reading than the outside of the woods. Give it a try and maybe pass his on in one of your videos. Keep up the good work.
Hello Mr. Morgan, DC Allen here in Northern Lower Peninsula of Michigan. I enjoy your videos, I been burning for 70 years, you got it right, less than 20% burns best. Let us talk Red Oak for instance, Note, it does not mean anything on how long a tree has been dead. A dead standing tree will wick up water as a natural response. One of the few times in nature that water will travel up hill is in a live tree and also in a dead tree. Also note that a cut green tree will take 2 years after cutting, splitting and stacking under a roof to be ready to burn, a dead standing tree will take 1 year after cutting, splitting and stacking under a roof to be ready to burn. Horizontal dead is a different story, that is why you need the moisture meter. Thanks for all your information, I really enjoy your content.
Thanks for the video, Ken. I have a question for anyone to comment on: How long will it take to dry what I believe may be partially seasoned wood using radiant heat from the fireplace, electric range/ stove, and propane heater? I ask because this video has clinched it for us, and we can now unequivocally state that the seasoned ash blend that was delivered is not the fully seasoned wood we were promised.
Backstory if interested: We arrived in NH from NC mid-December 2019 for a 3-month work assignment. After research, we chose a company to deliver a cord of seasoned the seasoned ash blend. For a cheaper price, we could have gotten a cord of mixed, mostly oak, but not fully seasoned.
From the start, it was apparent that we had a problem, but we thought the moisture emanating from our fires was due to its surface getting rain, humidity, etc. exposure. So we put it in the oven at 140F, and so on. But now 2 weeks in we are still burning pretty wet wood.
No trustworthy source is around, and some go will sell us 1/8 a cord of kiln-dried wood for $300. I welcome comments from around the world.
great information. i brought from 2 seperate wood guys and both stated wood was seasoned. However both had too much moister in it. hence wood did not give off many heat btu's. Moisture meter here i come. thanks tom, monkton, md.
I believe the moisture reader contacts have to be parallel for it to give accurate reading. Great video. Thanks
I’m in Central Texas and we have tons of oak and cedar out here. But omg this is super helpful for me having to buy wood since I live in the city in an apartment.
A blast from the past! Good video Mike, very useful! God Bless.
happy birthday mike and may you have many many more so I can watch your firewood videos.
One of the most useful! videos I've seen in the last time on youtube, well done.
Thanks for the great video. It made me realize my wood probably is not the right moisture content and I will be aware of this in the future
Hey Mike, another very informative video! You're right about the moisture meter: I bought one last year and it's worked extremely well. I burn a combination of white oak and yellow pine here in Northeastern North Carolina. And the pine isn't as bad as you might think, as long as it has dried thoroughly. My pine seasons for at least three years before burning. It burns hot with little creosote build-up. The only drawback is that it burns quickly. I wish I had ash and hickory on my property as I need to make some tool handles -- haha! Have a very happy birthday!
I agree the pine isn't bad at all, it's just been beat in our heads here that you don't burn pine lol
@@OutdoorsWithTheMorgans
Exactly what i was searching for as My Son has started burning Firewood…
I’ve been burning it all my Days!
Upstate SC for Locational Purpose 🤷♂️
Pine has also been Preached to me as a No No for Firewood 🤔
I’ve found it’s Fine…
As Long as it’s Fully Cured!!!
Also Cut it in the Winter for the next year is Great as the Sap is Down in the Roots and You Don’t get it All Over Everything 😊
This Also speeds up the Curing Process.
Great Video!!!
Watching others You Folks Have Some Beautiful Property!!!
Just Subscribed and look forward to Seeing More of The Woods Up North👍
Hey Mike! Here in No Calif I burn a mix of blue oak, pine, cedar, manzanita and madrone. Works well for us.
SW NM Pine, Douglas Fir, and Oak. Usually have four cords in various states of drying from freshly split to 2 yrs dried.
Good instructions, thanks! Eastern PA, variety of oak, apple, cherry, maples, some white pine for fun, ash, hickory, and my personal fav, black locust.
Black locust gets a bad rap! My favorite too but it "likes company" to get going, ours doesn't stink if it's dry, and seems to grow/dry/season faster than most everything else we burn.We live in NYS capital region on 7 acres, heat an old 3300sf house mostly in order of preference with b locust, oak, elm, cherry, apple, red maple. Birch, Norway/silver maple I split up small for kindling. Save the softwood for pulp and paper products...
Great video Mike, and it's important to impress upon folks the value of burning DRY wood. I'm in Northern AZ and have access to lots of Ponderosa Pine, but also burn Alligator Juniper (still a softwood but harder than pine, smells like cedar) and 2 types of oaks: White Oak and Emory Oak. Would love to see a pic of your stove!
I just watched this video again and chuckled when you said 8000 or 9000 subscribers so far as you’re currently over 100K! Way to go man, popular content
Now he's just over 200k!
@@jarodmorris611 that’s great to hear!
Excellent video, very informative. I never knew that firewood moisture meters even existed.
Good vid Mike. Definitely should help some folks out. Happy early birthday and congrats on the channel, I think I was within the first few hundred and it's been pretty cool watching it grow.
Thanks Greg
Great topic, alot of people in my area Wv. Have outdoor wood boilers yes including me, they are great. But im pretty sure we all burn green firewood. This is probably why these stoves got so many complaints about smoke im not sure? Again another great video, and happy birthday!
My place in Pocahontas County West Virginia I burn red oak ,white oak, hickory and cherry. Thanks for sharing the meter for moisture as well I never knew they made one!
Thank you so much for sharing this! Very helpful!
Up here in MA we burn oak, maple , and birch. When I heated with wood I'd buy it green in early Spring (March). It was usually dried enough to burn well by December. It could be used in October when we usually started burning, but it wouldn't burn real well. I often had enough left over from the previous year to get us started until the new stuff was good-n-ready.
So much of it, it's like it grows on trees 😊 = like. Good video. Montana checking in. Lodgepole pine, plenty of energy, gets the job done. Lota of volitile glasses help out too. Dries faster too. Having a hardwood is great though, just not really available here.
Great video, and excellent information.
Happy Birthday, Mike!
Great video , burning chestnut in Ireland 🍀 takes along time to dry!
We here in Crete in greece burn hard wood also.Olive tree cuttings....Nice long burn.....Oaks nice burn.Burned few times not so comon over here....Nice to share your experience......
I’m in Santa Cruz CA. We’re spoiled here with wood choices, and the winters aren’t cold. (Very rarely below 32...) I cruise the mountain roads during storms and pick up all I need for the year in a few weekends, plus I keep the roads open for all the other residents. We get lots of oak, madrone, and my personal favorite Doug Fir. I like DF because it dries easily and like I said we don’t have cold weather here. Oh, there tons of Eucalyptus for free as well. It’s a nuisance tree. It can be hard to split though...
Hey Happy Birthday Mike, in western Michigan we burn Oak, Maple, some apple wood from all the fruit trees in the area. Great video's it becoming a nightly habit to find out what's on your mind each night.
Thanks David
I'm in Kentucky. For wood stoves that are enclosed and fireplace inserts, the best firewood is the densest. That's Osage Orange. Next is black locust, followed closely by white oak and red oak. Then ash. Cherry is some great-smelling wood but not really up there in density. My personal favorite is red oak. It leaves little ash and burns great. I try and have my firewood cut for fall/winter by Derby Day -- That's the first Saturday in May for you non-Louisvillians. It's plenty dry by heating season.
Great video. If you heat with wood long enough you can just look at a piece of firewood and tell whether it's dry or not. The moisture meter is nice though.
Truth!
Happy Birthday Mike. I don't burn pine in WV either. It puts out a good fire!
In southern Ontario we generally burn maple, spruce, and even balsam, I've heard of pine being burnt as well. We might have the odd Hardwood tree around such as Oak, or walnut but often resort to others that are more common such as birch and hemlock
A very belated Happy Birthday! Lol. Mostly burn Maple and Oak here in Ontario, however i have burned Pine in the past. Hydro company had cut down a few trees at my property edge so i took advantage of some free fuel. I let it dry for a good three years before i used it, and only used it to start or restart fires as it burns fast and hot. Great job on the video as usual.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge....
You are by far the best guy to give info on firewood for newbies.
Easy to follow what you’re saying, even for dum dums.
My late husband did all this stuff, now I’m the guy and the girl on the acreage and have my ass in both hands and running head first, bumping into trees and taking out fence posts!
Lol.
Thanks for the help about seasoned wood and I’m out for a moisture meter right now before the wood gets delivered.
I’m getting tamarack and birch, because you snobs get all the oak and cherry out there.
I was told the birch is 80% seasoned, but tamarack is ok.
Well I’m going to check it with the moisture meter I’m setting out for.
Lol.
Thanks again
Hello & Thank You very much, Neighbor. From Oley, PA here originally from Brooklyn,N.Y. Newbie to all of this, wish I would've listened to my Dad From Elmira/Syracuse, N.Y. !!!!
Here in Western Nebraska we burn Ash, Elm and Hack berry (my favorite). Cottonwood is plentiful but burns a lot like pine so I try to stay away from it. Love your channel.
I have 5 acres in Maine with mixed species. I burn mostly red and white oak (90%) with some maple and gray birch (pine is used in the outside fire pit).I use an old 16' car trailer to stack my 2-3 cords. My theory is to keep the split wood off the ground and covered while allowing for good air circulation. Also sun exposure to the split wood will aid in drying. Thanks for your videos.
Happy birthday, love your videos very informative and helpful
Here in NH it's red oak, maple and birch. I always buy green wood because the "seasoned" wood never seems to be seasoned just costs more.
Awesome video! Im new at buying firewood and this opened my eyes.....getting that machine TODAY!! Thanks a bunch!!
Mike from Texas
Thanks for the tips I'll be buying a moisture meter soon. My local forest is mostly conifers (pines and firs) they don't burn very hot. My other properity has Oak it's a lot better.
So I guess my question is: You buy a moisture meter and it says your wood isn't "ready" to be burned, and it's 20 below outside? What do you do? Freeze? The moisture level isn't relevant at that point. You start a fire. I guess there are places you can pick and choose between species, delivery guy, how dry it is etc. Around here you burn what you can get, and everybody burns as their primary heat source, or most do. The guys who sell it sell it as fast as they can cut it. Three to six months, cutting to burning, max.
Here in Minnesota, I have Red, Pinn and Burr Oak in my wood pile(s). Ash consumes an equal portion as well
Raleigh here, yup we burn pine in new mexico(gotta clean your chimney a lot) but it’s what we have….piñon smells amazing!!! Awesome channel my man happy b day
Thank you for the information in this video. We are clearing out some dead trees and want to pass the wood along to people who use wood heat. We have never used wood heat so we are nearly clueless.
Glad it was helpful Shelley
Cracking ends and weight are what I watch for. I just started burning wood again this year so I have to start the process of building a multi year supply. I love the feeling of knowing you have 3 years of wood sitting there and laughing at the price of propane. I live in the Ozarks so I have access to hardwoods. I had a large cherry tree fall get blown over back in the spring so I burned it for the first 2 months of the year, then I switched over to some old, crappy oak. I've been cutting wood as fast as I can but I'll probably end up finishing the year on junk wood that's ready to burn.
Hey man just found the channel. Me and my wife just bought old farm house in Oklahoma out of town and last year had a lopi wood stove installed. Funny but I really enjoy taking down dead trees and turning into heat for the house. Mainly elm or maple around here. But not to picky. If someone wants to get rid of a tree i will cut it down for them and haul off. Keep up the vids.
Thanks, I will keep making them
Great info. Thanks. I cut and stack my own, but still some of it is not as dry as I think. Buying a moisture meter this week.
cool video. I grew up West Texas. While we don't have alot of trees to choose from (mostly Honey Mesquite, with some Red berry Juniper, Cottonwood, Siberian Elm, Pecan if you can find it), but as dry as it is, wood cures FAST out here.
If you did a water displacement measurement in a bucket you could calculate the wood’s size down to a T. Great show! Cheers from sunny Alberta!
We have about 10 acres of land not far from Cincinnati, OH. Most of the wood I cut, split, stack, and burn is Ash for obvious reasons. This will change once the remaining Ash trees die. We have lots of tulip poplar, sycamore, and maple. We don't have many oak trees, but the few we have are white oak. Btw, I totally agree with the moisture meter. It's the best way to tell. Also, one other reason for not burning green wood is rust. Burning green wood as you mentioned produces steam. Steam will rust an iron wood burning stove much faster than normal. Keep up the good work!
Great point
Learned a lot on this one Mike thank you.
He mike ben watching your videos love cuting wood for hobby to . for dunham quebec canada and i burn mostly maple and cherry and a bit of white burtch about 11 cords a year
I have a lot of pine and other soft woods where I live. Although I do cut them down when they are in the way, I do not go out of my way to cut one down. That being said I do not let them go to waste though. It's good for kindling and to throw in the odd big piece to get a fire roaring again after waking up to bed of coals, also great for the fire pit. I find myself mixing in a few pieces as I stack it and by doing so I'm always bringing in some for occasions like that. Poplar is another wood found quite often here, this wood is even better for those purposes, it's like a hard softwood they grow huge and fast, 100 ft tall in 25 to 50 years with a 2 to 2 1/2 ft dia. depending on location and water abundance.
New subscriber here. Like your videos great content. I live in the Shenandoah valley here in virginia. Wood i cut is mostly dead standing oak, hickory, maple, locus, poplar and pine. I dont just get oak i dont care about the btu's i do but i dont simply because i have such a variety of trees to cut and lots of it.. but as far as the pine goes ill burn it any time i have it.. i clean my 8" stove pipe once a week so the pine doesnt build up in the pipe.. im the ill burn any kind of wood it all makes heat.. cutting splitting an stacking my fire wood is like taking a zanax lol it gets my mind off every day bs an actually calms me.. i just like cutting my own wood.. thanks for you videos enjoyed them have a great day.
We live in Eastern Washington, in the foothills of the Cascade Range. It's called high desert but only about 1500' elevation. We get about 7" of rainfall yearly yet within 30 minutes we can be in deep forests. We burn mostly red fir and tamarack. Those woods are fairly dense for softwoods and produce a lot of BTU's. We also burn a lot of fruit wood here. We grow apples, pears, cherries, peaches, apricots and plums so there is an abundant supply of those woods as well. The fruit wood lasts longer in a wood stove but leaves a lot more ash. The forest wood burns hotter, cleans the glass doors of the stove but doesn't give the long burn times. Pine was mentioned in the video and we have White Pine which is very soft compared to Southern Yellow Pine. It burns extreemly hot but for a very short time. It would be nice to have access to red fir to mix with my tamarack.
Thank you! This was a big help.
We burn hardwood in northern Michigan, but I like to burn cedar once in awhile for the smell and crackling fires.
Informative video....great ways to determine ways to burn safely with properly seasoned wood.
Useful advice as always!
Great video. I burn about 1/2 a cord in my workshop in a double barrel stove every year. When buying wood I always ask about how long it's been dried but I'm never completely confident on the responses I get. I need to get me one of those meters.
Great video mike. Looks like I'm track at my house to burn some nice dry wood. Thanks again
White oak. Red oak. Sugar maple. Chestnut oak. Pin oak. Cherry. All are good here in Rockingham County Virginia. But absolutely nothing beats a good piece of locust. Burns high slow heat. Little ash. And lasts for years on the pile. Great video
Oak here in Ga. One of my best friends i played ball with in college is from western Pa too. South of Pittsburgh in Connelsville.
Happy Birthday Mike!
Thanks
I'm from southern Ontario in Canada. We had the ash bororer so ash trees that are cut down are only able to stay in the township to prevent spread of disease. My adult children have been cutting down dead ash trees from a neighbors woods who wants the dead ones down. They do this on thanksgiving in October, then my neighbor comes with log splitter and this is what I have been burning. It is dry to a point. I order slabs from a local mill to add to it. Some of the trees have been dead for a few years so maybe that's why it seems to be dry. I like your weight test and will try it.
I like meter.....might get one....time and sound what I use. HAPPY BIRTHDAY🎂
I have been trying to tell the firewood guys here in arkansas this for years. Most of the people here think that just because the tree has been down for a year it is ready to burn. Great info, and most of this was stuff my grandfather taught me when I was growing up on the farm in Missouri. I like the moister meter idea though.
I'm gonna stop ringing standing dead trees for next year - half the time it doesn't kill them, but if it does you are right, they don't dry on the hoof.
Great information nothing like trying to get a hot fire going with wet wood!!👊
Out here in Northern California we do have a lot of soft woods. Fir, cedar, and redwood are probably the most popular. But if you're resourceful or have a 4wd pick up we also have a lot of tan oak and madrone. Madrone is my favorite. It's super hard and it burns really clean. I keep a few cords of fir on hand for a quick fire when it's not too cold and I don't want a fire going all day. But the bulk of my firewood consumption is madrone and oak. As a foot note, you'd never grab another piece of oak or cherry in your life for kindling if you've had the pleasure of splitting old growth redwood. I can grab a stick a quarter inch square and split it strait down the middle with pretty much anything I have on hand. I've used a pocket knife a few times while camping. It burns really quick, though. So I don't like it for actual firewood.
I stack when I have to outside on used pallets that you can get anywhere.Allows air to move under wood.Also works great as a base in a woodshed combined with strapping on the outside of the shed to allow air movement from all directions.There is nothing worse than weather exposed wet wood in the middle of winter lying on the ground.Oak,ash,maple,beech,primarily here in southern Ontario,If you are lucky enough,you get a Carolinian woodlot with a total mixture of hard and softwoods here.We are primarily flatlanders here,not a ton of hilly terrain.
We used to burn a lot of popular, sycamore, soft maples just because they were trash trees that people wanted cleaned off their creek banks and were easy to get to never seemed to run out here. Did okay for our use.
Hi Mike. I recommend pushing your MM pins into the wood parallel to the grain rather than across the grain. I think your readings will be 1 more accurate, and 2 higher by several %.
Here in weatern CT there's a lot of ash trees dieing right now. Good supply of various hardwoods around me. My property has quite a few Locust trees which I've been taking down past 3 years
lancaster pa area, we have only been burning the trees cut in the yard. Oak and Maple