Thanks for the video! Nice to see someone with actual experience and knowledge working on a project. I try to do most of the repairs at my house and thank goodness to RUclips and people such as yourself. Thank you!
+Brian's You are more than welcome! Many people have the same mindset. Nice to be able to make repairs yourself. RUclips has made this much easier! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I am new to the plumbing trade and love watching your videos and learning from you. You have the best plumbing channel on RUclips , so thank you we all appreciate it! It would be pretty cool to see a video of all of your plumbing tools you own, describing which brands you use. And also what tools you bring with you on a typical service call. Anyways, thanks again and take care. -Mike
Hello Mike, Thanks! I have a few tools for sure. I will see what I can do on that. Hopefully it the future. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello DEWinDCCO, You are more than welcome! Hopefully it will help with any future projects you may have. Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Hello Sean; Thanks for the kind words! Took my time on this one. You want to cover everything clearly. Hopefully that is how it turned out. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
This is probably the best video I've seen on this subject. Could you possibly provide a shopping list of items needed to put together the tank tee as you described in the video?
Hello Eric, Great to hear! Having a 1" line moves the water faster and therefore the pump runs for a shorter time. That never hurts. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Stunning, work of art! Got my pressure tank installed like this with brass but don't have the relief valve on the tee...Unfortunate for me my initial run is galvanized....
Roger Diotte Thanks very much for the kind words! I am sure it is fine. I saw some pics and everything looked really good to me. You may want to change that piece some day down the road, but it should be good for a long period of time. Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Hello tony, Thanks very much! Do it nice or do it twice is my motto. It doesn't take any more time to make it look good. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
***** Thanks for the kind words! The brass will be around for many quite some time. The tank may have to be replaced down the road again, but the installation will take no time at all. Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
At 5:30 if the tank should be empty of water and isn't, where is it? The only possible place is above the diaphragm due to a leak, isn't it? If that is the case is it possible to pump air into the valve and force the water out, and if that works, how long would it stay out? I am guessing that with a leak in the diaphragm that you couldn't get any air pressure to build, at least with the water valve(s) open, but maybe getting some water in the bottom of the tank perhaps enough air pressure could be put in above the diaphragm to get some function, certainly temporary? I don't know. Is a tank getting waterlogged something that happens all at once or over time?
I have a similar setup as your video, and appreciate Your comments about the tank T manifold. I understand You as saying do not use a one way check valve and and pressure pop off valve when a jet pump is in place. In other words, those items are only used with a submersible Pump? Thank you for the concise video
Hello Kris, You're welcome! A check valve can be installed in the pipe coming from the well with shallow well jet pump. I have used them in the past where the foot valve has become faulty. I place them in line right off the pump heading down the well. With a two pipe system which is generally a deep well; you have one pipe that is suction and one that is the return to the well. A check valve on one or both of these lines would serve no purpose. A submersible pump can pump the pressure up and over 100 PSI and higher that could cause serious problems to pipes in the house so a pressure relief valve is installed. I have seen these relief valves blow off. Put out a lot of water if the pressure switch does not cut out. A jet pump could possibly reach that pressure, but I have never seen it. Chances are slim to none. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Hello FlyingWyoming, I always recommend and install the filter after the tank. I have never seen one installed before the tank. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
hey there, thanks for all the awesome videos! Is there a such thing as a 180 degree PEX fitting or a copper, brass or other material fitting to use with PEX? What happened is my home has a slab foundation, and I'm abandoning in the ground as much heat system piping as I can. I have oil heat, hot water baseboard heating. I want to mount new hot water baseboard and be able to run a 3/4" supply and return from each required baseboard run. Some baseboards may require me to go to it, then double back the other way to return to the boiler. I want to do a 180 as simple as possible, since it will run through walls. What do you think? Thanks again for all you do!
+RJ F I have run it back through the baseboard on many occasions. You can use 2- 3/4 copper fitting elbows or a regular copper elbow and a copper fitting elbow depending on what end you are attaching to for the return line. These two combinations will allow you to go back through the top of the baseboard. Hope this helps... Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Thanks for you video. Question: How the water log happened?. In order to be water log doesn't the valve at the top of the tank have to release air so that the water can occupy more space in the tank?. Just asking.
Hello Eric, Great question! The air above the water will eventually mix with the water and the water will slowly rise to the top of the tank and fill the vessel. Years ago they made tanks that had no bladder in them and they used a mechanism called an air volume control that brought a minute amount of air into the tank every time the pump ran. They worked very well and are still used today. A company then made a glass lined tank that had a Styrofoam disc in it that floated up and down with the water and helped prevent the water and air from mixing. It worked well, but over time the tank had to be drained and the pump would be turned back on leaving air above the styrofoam. The air helps prevents the pump from turning on every time the water is used as the air is compressed when the pump kicks in and pushes the water out of the tank until the pressure switch reads a low level and the pump turns again. The bladder tank came along and the air volume control was not needed as the rubber bladder in the tank prevented any water from mixing with the air. The only time this happens with this tank is if the bladder gets a pinhole or tear in it and over time the air is blended with the water and the tank becomes waterlogged. Hope this answers your question. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I noticed the pressure gauge and the sediment port, switched position from the dry set-up to the finished plumb. Does it matter which side of the pressure tank port they are on? I have a double drop Myers jet pump and know I will be changing the fittings (possibly entire tank) in the coming months. I really enjoyed your video. The lay out of pieces, great description as you worked, in an easy professional tone.
Hello Peg, Thanks very much! Greatly appreciated! It doesn't make any difference what side of the tank tee they go on. One thing to keep in mind is you probably have a gauge and pressure switch on your pump so there may be no need of installing them on the tank tee. You can simply plug them off. I am a brass fan. Keep in mind; I prefer using couplings coming off and going into the tank tee because they do split easy. Unfortunately I know it to well. That's the reason for them and then you have no worries of splitting the tee. Thanks for commenting and feel free to ask any other questions. Enjoy your weekend! Al
Hello Ian, I have seen a number of PVC tees installed in tanks with no issues. I prefer brass myself. Just a brass fan. When installing either one of the two you must be very careful not to cross thread the fitting on the bottom of the tank. Not all of them are plastic, but most of them are as it makes for a lower cost in manufacturing. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Thanks for the tip on applying the teflon tape. Can pipe dope be used on these fittings in a water supply situation? How can you tell if the clamp is all stainless-just had a problem with the nut rusting although the clamp was fine-your work looks nice
+john james Pipe dope can be used on the threads by itself, but I prefer using a few layers of teflon and quite often will apply a thin layer of pipe dope over the teflon. It is like an insurance that there will be no leaks or weeps. As far as clamps go; if you look at the clamp you will usually see All stainless steel etched in it. If you don't see All SS the screw is steel. Have seen many problems when it comes to the steel screw. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your holidays! Al
Great video but a question for you I am a HVAC tech who dabbles a little in plumbing so a jet pump on top of a water pressure tank doesnt require a pressure switch?? I seen you put a plug to cover where I have a pressure switch on my own homes unit. I dont have a submersible pump like I said the pump is in basement w the tank. Please lmk
Hello Wild Man, All pumps require a pressure switch whether it is located on the tank tee or the pump itself. In this video the switch was located on the pump as it is jet pump. Most jet pumps have the pressure switch on them as this is what controls the on/off action. I have seen some hooked up with the pump in the tank tee to control the pressure. The switch is what tells the pump to come on when the pressure is low and turn off when it reaches the pressure that satisfies the switch.. A submersible pump is controlled by a pressure switch that is installed where the plug was installed in the tee. Just like the jet pump...the pressure switch is needed on all pumps to regulate low and high pressure. My apologizes for not showing more in regards of the switch in this video. It will happen on the next video on pumps. Hope this helps! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al Any other questions...feel free to ask!
interesting as i am just going to install one of these in my house in the philippines ..would this system work ok if the pump is pumping from a well in the garden ??
Hello John, It would work from anywhere and a lot depends on the depth of the water and how far you are going to pull it up. A shallow well works to a depth of 25 feet. I am not exactly sure of the situation you have there, but testing should be done to ensure no contaminants. Hope this helps...any other questions feel free. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Hi Al, I’ve been a subscriber since the very beginning of your channel. Really enjoy all your tips and installation videos. Was just curious if you’re planning any new videos? Enjoy your channel. Tom
Hello Tom, Thanks for hanging in there! Much appreciate it! I hope to get back into it in the very near future. Won't get into any details of why I stopped making them, but am planning on them very soon! Stay tuned! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
As far as your concerns about the tank tee at around 7:50 - if you don't have the reducing coupling could you just put a, 1" in this case, coupling on the tee and go ahead and screw the nipple into the tee? Wouldn't that reinforce any weakness in the tee casting? I am guessing the nipple would slide inside the larger size coupling.
Hello bigpardner, A 1" coupling on the tank tee would work great as well. Thread a male adapter into it and you would be all set. I generally reduce the pipe size there as many homes have a 3/4" supply line to attach to and that is why I use the reducing coupling. I have had a few issues with the tank tees before; so threading a coupling on both ends takes care of that problem. One less worry. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Thank you. If one was using a pressure relief valve with a submersible pump, should the valve outlet have a hose going to a drain or outlet if no drain is nearby? In my case most of the basement is finished and carpeted. I guess there is a drain somewhere but this was all there when we bought the house so I'm not sure where it would be. It would be a bad situation to have the well pump filling the basement. At present there is no relief valve. I am guessing the tank and fittings are original to the house and are over 30 years old so I plan on putting in new.
plastic pipe going into metal, how tight can one turn it, and does it need more Teflon turns, etc, any comment would be appreciated...do you like the flotec jet pumps? thanks
Hello pei broker, The plastic is actually attached to a Viega pex male adapter which is screwed into a brass elbow. I generally place about 5 windings of Teflon around the threads of any fitting. If the Teflon is thin enough to see through I will probably double that. I haven't had a great any experience in Flotec jet pumps. I have installed Berkeley, Gould, Myers and Grundfos to name a few. They are all good name brands in my books. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
As far as tightness, tight enough that it doesn't leak. Hand tight plus 2 full turns ought to be a good start, if it leaks tighten it more. It's tougher to gauge with plastic as it slides easier than metal on metal. Get two channellock pliers number 420, using those you would be hard pressed to break anything and you should be able to make joints tight enough repeatedly.
Hi Oldkidd----My question is----you say----If you have a submersible? (which I do), what is the difference between what you are hooking up in this video? Thanks so much.....my temporary and portable pump house (built on pallets) has a bad tank, but soon will be building a real pumphouse. I like Brass too.....American, but can see Vancouver Island from my island----Good Day
Hello txbob, No difference in connecting a submersible pump to a new bladder tank. Exact same procedure. Only difference is the pump switch. If you are installing a new switch it must be no lower than a 30/50 cut in/cut out. The more important of the 2 is the cut in. Should always be 30 or more. I am a huge brass fan myself. Use it wherever I can. Must be a beautiful location where you live. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Hello jab353, I am using brass fittings in the entire tank installation and coming off the valve with pex. I am then joining it to copper. Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Can you use plastic pipes or PEX instead of metal ? How long should a tank last ? Would installing a bigger tank make the pump last longer ? It should at least give some water longer during a power outage...
Dicofole I would stick to metal pipes coming off the tank as you want to be able to screw it into the tank and apply the gauge, switch and drain valve easily. Tanks can last from a few years to many decades. I have seen the older glass lined galvanized tanks last for a number of decades. Everything depends on water quality. If your water is acidic obviously it won't last as long as one that is installed that has a neutral PH. I guess you could say they are similar to cars as well. You could have a tank that last for many years with no issues or you could have the exact same model that only lasts for a very short time and the bladder fails. A bigger tank would allow more storage of water in your home, but there is a point where it really doesn't make sense to install one that is massive. It would make a difference as far as losing the power in that aspect. I saw where a company installed a huge tank in someone's home trying to correct the problem with the well that was not producing enough water. The size of the tank made no difference as the well only could produce a small amount of water in a minute....measured by gallons/minute. I am not a believer in small bladder tanks as the pump will run quite often if a large amount of water is consumed. Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Really enjoyed your video! I'm having a couple of issues with my well system that I'm hoping you could comment on. First, my system pressure continues to increase after the pump shuts off (60 psi) to approx. 70 psi. Then secondly, with an open faucet, I'll decrease the system pressure to 45 psi and get a supply interruption (no flow) of 3-4 seconds before the pump turns on at 40 psi. The pressure tank precharge is correctly set at 38 psi with no pressure in the system. Any thoughts on what might be causing these two issues?
I was able to repair it myself today. Going on the premise that this system is completely original (put into service in "97) except for the pressure gauge which was replaced last summer, I decided to remove the pressure switch, gauge, and the two galvanized 2" nipples and "Tee" joint they were assembles with. 1) I removed the diaphragm cover plate from the bottom of the pressure switch to find the rubber diaphragm completely wore out (but not leaking) and caked with metal flakes. 2) One of the 2" nipples was about 95% closed off with rust, metal flakes, and red "mud". Replaced the plumbing, pressure switch, and a better quality pressure gauge (Campbell Hausfeld...not the crap home depot sells) and have the system back up and running perfectly. Hope this might help someone else.
Hello BigSidtrous, Congrats on the repair! I am sure your input will help someone else with the same situations. Thank you for that! I am all about brass fittings. I never have any issues such as plugged lines when I use brass. The switch itself is a common problem. I have seen that dozens of times. They pick up any minerals in the water along with pieces of scale. Whenever a pump either hesitates to cut in or out for a period of time; that is the place to look first. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Wasn't exactly part of my Christmas Eve plans...but oh the joy of home ownership! My wife was happy we weren't without water all weekend. I'm also thinking my 19 yo pump tank will be next to go bad...I might think about replacing that as well. Do you have many problems sourcing all those brass pipe parts at you local plumbing supply store? I'm pretty sure the big box stores don't sell them...wouldn't be comfortable buying them even if they did.
I'm a novice so this is all pretty new info. I'm getting ready to replace the pressure tank and pump along with the pressure switch. Could you explain why you didn't need to install a pressure switch? Thanks.
Hello Jay, Not a problem. The pressure switch is located on the pump. If this was a submersible pump I would have had to install one in the tank tee. Any other questions; feel free to fire away! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
It is a 2 line pump from the well. Unfortunately I finished the project and I had put the check valve in before you answered my question. Will it hurt to leave the check valve in my 2 line system or should I remove it?
Great video!!! Could you please help me I read all the comments and no one has this problem, all day every day my pump kicks on every three minutes and stays on for 30 seconds without any water running anywhere's it's a submersible pump the valve gauge isn't working its stuck on 68 pounds. I have good water pressure and everything seems fine, except every 3 minutes it's kicking on. It's burn my pump up I'm afraid. I'm thinking I need a new bladder, switch and valve?
Hello Robert, One of two things is going on with your situation. You either have a joint in the well that is bad such as your pitless adapter or the check valve is gone in pump. Either way you have to get it looked at relatively soon or your power bill will be through the roof. I first came across a problem exactly like this 35 years ago. A friend of mine found something was wrong was when he got his light bill. He was away for two months and received a very high bill. We were lucky enough to find the problem just by listening as you probably have. The switch licks in and out often. So it isn't your tank or switch, but a leak in the well that is either one of the two that I mentioned. I would imagine your well casing is above the ground with a cap on it? You can remove the well cap and look to see if the leak is on the pitless adapter that will be found about 4 or 5 feet below the surface. They made some pitless adapters out of galvanized material and they weren't made to last. Most that I have come across are made of brass that last for decades. If you do not see a leak there then hopefully it is the check on the pump and not a joint on the piping. By installing a spring loaded check valve in the line that enters the house, you will prevent the water from going back down the well. So what happens is the pump comes on and turns off once the switch has reached the high pressure limit. In your case the water goes back down the well and drops the pressure to the low limit and the pump kicks in again. I would wait too long to get this repaired as it is costing you money 24/7. I hope this helps. Here is a video that I made on the check valve installation if you are interested... The old plumber finds unexplained high electrical bill...Water related Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance. Al
Thank you!! I had a Plummer come over last night and showed me everything. My pitless is ok it's my foot valve draining the water back down, the spring loaded valve must of went bad. Everything you said is absolutely Correct thank you. He couldn't fix it cause it was too late last night so this weekend I'm gonna try to fix it with my dad. It looks easy enough, pull it out replace the foot valve (22$ Home Depot) and then just put back in. Hopefully it's that easy 🙏🏻
Hello Robert, You don't have to pull out the pump. You only have to install the check valve in the line where it enters the house. You need four stainless steel clamps that will fit over 1 inch pipe. Two 1" brass by barbed male adapters. One spring loaded check valve. A roll of Teflon tape. Turn the pump off. Shut the valve off leaving the tank as this will prevent the water from draining from the entire house. Make the tefloned male adapters into the check valve and place up against the pipe getting proper distance you will need to cut out. Slide two clamps on either end of the pipe and install the check. You may need to heat the pipe with a torch just a little to make it more plyable for the fittings to slide into. Check out this video; it should help...The old plumber finds unexplained high electrical bill...Water related Thanks for commenting and good luck with the project! Al
TheOldkid888 I have a submersible pump. We pulled it up 4 feet and seen there is no water below the pitless. It's draining right back in the well. A new foot valve would stop it from going back down. Correct or I'm I missing something. Thank you!
Hello Robert, That inline check valve I mentioned is what you want to install. There is NO foot valve in the bottom of your well with a submersible pump. They are only installed on single and two line jet pump systems where the pump is on the surface and the lines feed into the well. The water is flowing back because the check that is built into the pump is faulty. Installing the spring loaded check valve that I mentioned earlier is the easiest by far of correcting this problem. the video I mentioned in my previous notes will show how it should look when it is installed. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
anyone know what happened to TheOldkid888 (video's author)?? This video is 3 years old, and it was the only video he posted that year. He has some great DIY plumbing videos, good explanations. Really enjoy the tips, tricks, and other small details, most often these "small details" can make a Huge difference, and it's sadly what most youtube videos always seem to leave out.
Hello GmGarlo, When you first go to install the tank you check it then. You make sure it is 2 pounds below your cut in pressure. If your pump switch is 30/50 then you set it at 28. Once it is set then there is no need of checking it. You are all set. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Hello Pete, I actually start planting the seeds in seedling starter trays and then transplant to the garden once the last frost in June has passed. This year we will be planting a few different varieties. We will be planting at least five dozen plants. Some for pickling, juicing and eating. It could be more than that. Juicing uses one a day! We plant them between 12 and 18 inches apart. We install a trellis as well and train them. We use kelp fertilizer as well. Amazing stuff! Thanks for commenting and happy gardening! Al
Hello petecoffman9048, If you have a submersible pump or a shallow well with a single line coming from the well I would suggest a spring loaded check valve be installed in the line before you get to the tank. If you have deep well jet pump which requires two lines to operate a check valve serves no purpose as one line lifts and the other line pushes back down the well. Check valves can be installed on this type of system. Thanks for commenting and enjoy the holidays! Al
Hello stratcat250, You can come off the pump with either 3/4 or 1". Coming off the pump with 1" is fine. Some pumps have outlets that are 1" in size and it saves using reducing coupling off the pump. I have seen it done with 3/4 to the tank as well. You want to keep the pipe size at least 3/4. Hope this helps! Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Its a good idea to add a union between the T and the pressure tank. This way if you need to change the pressure tank if the future, [and you will], you dont have to disconnect all the lines to the T to replace the tank. You just unscrew the union, replace the tank, and hook the union back up. A couple dollars now saves work in the future.
Hello Barry, Good suggestion. Nipple out of the tank and then the union and tank tee unless you go with a few tees and a short nipple to install your pressure switch and drain valve. Will keep the line a little closer to the tank. Thanks for the input and have yourself a good weekend! Al
Nice video, but you could sure use some extra lighting so people can actually see what you are showing. Plenty of light over your sink, but that's not the problem area.
Lots of good tips here. Do I understand correctly that no relief valve is installed? I have a similar tank and it says it needs one in the system or else risk injury or death.
Hello heted1, That is correct. This is a jet well pump and the pressure cannot reach that high a pressure. If this were a submersible pump I would definitely suggest a relief valve. I have seen submersible pumps exceed 100 psi and pop the valve. Should always be installed on submersible pumps. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
BustersRyder Good question! Once the pump cuts off the pressure in the top of the tank will be that of the pressure switch which will be the cut out pressure. So if the pump cuts out at 40 or 50; that is what the top of the tank will read. You must remember there is 28 pounds on the tank before it is even installed; so the pump pushes against the bladder and increases the pressure in the air space above it. Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Hello Top-notch Contracting, I have been falling way behind on videos. Should see some in the very near future! Have a few lined up. Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
I have a well pump and water tank...every morning my water cuts off for 5 -7 minutes. Its like all the water in the lines runs out...then it starts back and no more trouble all day...can u help
Hello juju, What I believe is happening with this situation is the line going to the pressure switch is becoming plugged. Very common problem that occurs on almost every pump over their lifetime. I made a video on this topic that can help correct this problem. Well trouble...losing water pressure;pump not cutting in at correct pressure. Do you have a jet pump in the basement or a submersible in the well? Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance.....Al
Hello juju, There are a few ways to fix this problem. You can turn the power off and drain all the pressure out of the system. Remove the wires on the switch and unscrew it from the nipple going into the bottom of it. If the nipple is galvanized I would replace it with brass myself. Minerals don't generally build up in brass as compared to galvanized. If you don't want to remove the wires and switch; after you have drained off the pressure, you can remove the six screws on the bottom of the switch plate with a stubby screw driver. and lift the switch from the plate. This will allow you to clear the nipple since this is where the problem lies. Hope this helps. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello Adam, You can use a bladder tank with a piston pump. Check the pressure switch on the pump and drop the air in the tank 2 pounds below the cut in pressure. If you have a 20/40 pump...the air in the tank before you turn the pump on after hooking it up should be 18 pounds. If it is a 30/50 switch...drop the air to 28 pounds. There is a snifter valve on the top of the tank that where you can either put air in or remove just like a bicycle tire. Hope this helps! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
+Brian Crandall I did not hear anything about lead free in brass. Lead free solder has been used for a long time now. Viega fittings are lead free which could be the start of things to come. No doubt it is not far off for all fittings. Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Brian Crandall Lead free solder has been in Canada for quite some time now. It takes more heat as you know and definitely doesn't flow like 50/50 does. I find on smaller joints to have no big issues, but when using it on larger diameter pipe you can have some serious gaps in the joint and it doesn't cap like 50/50 does. Takes more time to solder when you run into these this type of situation. Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
Ozzstar Thanks for the kind words! Brass does cost more, but it will be around for a very long time. I would sooner spend a little extra and have fewer worries. Galvanized works fine too, but you can have issues with it if your water carries a lot of minerals or is acidic. Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Hi, very nice video. I'd like to ask a question. I have a pump with a controller (like this www.italtecnica.com/index.php?ip=4&cat=1&prd=48&l=2) but it stops the pump when there is no open faucet. I'm planning to install such tank, and because the pump is working till there is an open faucet it pumps up to about 87 PSI. Should I add pressure reducing valve or I should change this controller? Thank you for your advice.
Hello Marin, A tank this size simply shortens the life of the pump. Cutting in and out also uses much more energy. I have seen this in several homes where a very small tank has been installed. I would definitely change the size of the tank and the pressure switch. I generally install a 30/50 switch myself. What type of pump do you have in the house? Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance...Al
Hello farmer, No need of a check valve between the pump and tank as the foot valve prevents any water from flowing back. I place them in the line coming out of the well when a submersible pump is being used. The reason for this is to prevent any water from going back down the well should the check valve in the pump fail. Should it fail and no check valve is in the line; the pump will continuously cycle on and off. It happened to a friend of mine 30 years ago and he got a 500 dollar light bill in the summer when he was away at his bungalow. You will hear the jet pump run if there is any kind of a problem. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello Jimi, You turn your power off to the pump. Turn your city water off. Drain the pressure from the system and cut the pipe a few inches from the first tee off the line from the pimp. You can either use a Sharkbite cap or solder a copper cap on the end of the pipe. A Sharkbite cap would probably be the way to go as you wouldn't need to purchase any soldering gear. Be sure to mark the pipe before installing the cap......most important. You want to make sure the cap goes on the proper distance. The cap will go on the pipe 7/8ths of an inch if it is 1/2 pipe and 1 and 1/8th inch if it is 3/4 pipe. Then you can remove the old pump and tank along with the few feet of pipe that comes off the tank. If you are not planning on removing the pump and tank immediately be sure to disconnect the wire on the pump and place a few marrettes. Very important. You do not want anyone turning on the breaker or power to the pump as it would create quite a mess. Hope this helps! Any other questions...feel free to ask. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Best of luck with the project! Al
Hello Mixed Boi Jones RC, It is called braided beverage hose. Some people call it braided pump hose. It should only be used on a positive pressure line as it will contract if there is any kind of negative draw. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Hello dino vistroni, They can leak over time. The pressure at some point may have come close to popping it and it didn't set into the same groove where it was seated before. Relief valve on a boiler can work in the same manner. I have seen that before and I have seen them pop when turning the pump back on. You should replace it if it is plugged. The relief valve prevents the lines in the house from springing a leak by relieving the pressure should the pump go above the high limit switch. I would rather have it let go in that area then in a ceiling somewhere. Hope this helps! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello Ryan, My apologize for not having it on video. I did check the pressure before hand. I always do. I always set it 2 pounds below cut in pressure pressure which in this case would be 28 pounds. The pressure switch on the pump was a 30/50. I have found tanks to be all over the place as far as pressures go. Mostly higher than cut in. Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
@@TheOldkid888 I'm curious, why wouldn't you set the pressure higher? Like say 60lbs. The bladder would then take up more volume right? Or at least to the pressure you want to run the pump at. Isn't that usually the norm?
Hello Ryan, The normal pressure is two pounds below cut in. If the air pressure in the bladder of the tank was at sixty pounds your pump would be cycling on and off more often as it would only be able to push a smaller amount of water into the tank as compared to it being set two pounds below cut in. Basically you are allowing the pump to put more water in the tank and cut in and out less. The starting of any motor is where the highest peak draw of power is found which is more costly than when it is running. So allowing it to run longer and less often; filling the tank with more water will prevent the pump from cycling in and out as often. Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Hello Robert, The problem is more than likely in the well with the jet assembly if the pump has been replaced. You will probably have to pull the lines and either clean or replace the assembly. I generally replace the assembly as you are assured not to have any problems for some time. Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
Hello Mark, You can use PVC, but braided hose is much more flexible. Very easy to use especially where quick turns are required. This is what I was first shown 40 plus years ago and I have used it ever since with no issues. At all the wholesaler's in our region; contractors simply ask for pump hose and the supplier knows exactly what they are talking about. Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Replace the well tank? Screw it, Just give it air every month. We have a couple old ladies where there long past husbands had piped an air compressor into the old(no bladder) well tank. So once a month they just open the test valve and if they get water out they open the air valve for a bit and check the test valve again. The old speedair compressors last many decades. Thankfully their husbands set them up well.
Hello skoronesa , Adding air will help, but tanks that have bladders in them can only take in so much air. The pump will still kick in far too often. Over time it would cost more to run the pump then change the tank. Doesn't make a lot of sense to me. Having to add air every month means a lot of cut in and out of the pump. Shortens its life as well. You should talk them into a new tank and save them some money. Have a good one! Al
Hello john pietros, Your cut in pressure must be at 40 pounds then. The general rule is have the air two ponds below the low cut in pressure. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello skoronesa , Galvanized isn't as bad as black, but it does build up with minerals and deteriorate over time. A lot depends on the water quality. I have never seen black last as long as galvanized. Spend the extra money and go brass. Never have a problem. Thanks for commenting and have a good one! Al
Hello EvaBongoria , You picked that one right! N.S. Generally not hard to tell if you have spent any time in this region at all! Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Hello F Thomas Crowley Jr, I would only install a check valve if this was a submersible pump. It is not required if not as the foot valve in the well prevents any water from flow back into the well. Would you suggest putting one somewhere? Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Hello S.K Mechanical, For certain! BIG NO NO! I am not even a fan of galvanized myself, but it sure beats black iron on potable. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Hello S.k, Copper, brass, pex and cpvc is the only pipe that should be used on potable water. Galvanized is better than black iron ( anything is for that matter), but minerals can build up on it very quickly and lead to serious trouble. I see it so often. People trying to save a buck on something they depend on daily to survive. Contractors should get with the program as well. I guess they look at it from a point of repair. Better piping....less repair and less initial cost for them. I have seen a well company drill a 500 foot well with casing up the wazoo and install galvanized pipe and a cheap gate valve coming off the tank. SERIOUSLY! Charging the homeowner thousands of dollars for the job. I don't have an issue with that. They are expensive to drill, but the gate valve didn't even last long enough to keep the water shut off until I connected the piping; so I always installed a 3/4 ball valve above it. Time and time again. Imagine if they had spent about $3 dollars more they could have covered a ball valve. crazy! Anyway..my rant for the day. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Would it not be better to say the pressure tank “ bladder “ is ruptured? I can’t for the life of me comprehend a metal tank being “ waterlogged “ a wooden one yes or a sponge sure but steel? Never. Just sayin!!!
Hello Richard Temby, I know what you are saying. It is a term that has been used in the plumbing world for many decades. It is not just used on pump tanks, but also expansion tanks on heating systems. Basically it is because the air has been replaced with water and it should always contain air to work properly. There is no bladder on the bigger expansion tanks of heating systems, but the air slowly mixes with the water over time the tank becomes filled with water causing the systems pressure to rise when heated and popping the relief valve. The new smaller tanks on the heating systems do have a bladder. The bladders don't rupture as such, but generally get a pinhole in them and over time the water fills the tank. All that being said...I know how you are thinking. It's a term used for decades and will continue no doubt. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hello Linda, Definitely cheaper, but I will stick to the brass. Never lets me down. Up to the individual I guess. Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
good on t bar fittings only. you did not show or tell what you set tank pressure at or how you drained or disconnected the old tank.or how you installed new tank. your how to do video is useless. to a handyman.
I miss watching new videos I still recommend your videos to people everyday !! Hope you are doing well
Thanks for the video! Nice to see someone with actual experience and knowledge working on a project. I try to do most of the repairs at my house and thank goodness to RUclips and people such as yourself. Thank you!
+Brian's
You are more than welcome!
Many people have the same mindset. Nice to be able to make repairs yourself.
RUclips has made this much easier!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I am new to the plumbing trade and love watching your videos and learning from you. You have the best plumbing channel on RUclips , so thank you we all appreciate it!
It would be pretty cool to see a video of all of your plumbing tools you own, describing which brands you use. And also what tools you bring with you on a typical service call.
Anyways, thanks again and take care.
-Mike
Hello Mike,
Thanks!
I have a few tools for sure. I will see what I can do on that. Hopefully it the future.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
+TheOldkid888 Sounds great, thanks al!
Mike Symons
Have a good one! Al
great vid. like the way you made up the fittings for our viewing before the actual install
Hello Pop,
Thank you!
Nice to hear! I believe details mean a lot!
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Thank you so much for producing this video.
Hello DEWinDCCO,
You are more than welcome!
Hopefully it will help with any future projects you may have.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Awesome video, no rush, getting it done!
Hello Sean;
Thanks for the kind words!
Took my time on this one. You want to cover everything clearly. Hopefully that is how it turned out.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
This is probably the best video I've seen on this subject. Could you possibly provide a shopping list of items needed to put together the tank tee as you described in the video?
Hello Dreamwood3,
Thanks!
I will do that in the next day or two.
Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
@@TheOldkid888 Hi, how can I contact you?
Very Informative Video. I have learned a few things. I guess its always best to have a 1" pipe from the shallow well pump to the pressure tank.
Hello Eric,
Great to hear!
Having a 1" line moves the water faster and therefore the pump runs for a shorter time. That never hurts.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Is a check valve required inline somewhere? I believe I have what they call a sand point.
Stunning, work of art! Got my pressure tank installed like this with brass but don't have the relief valve on the tee...Unfortunate for me my initial run is galvanized....
Roger Diotte
Thanks very much for the kind words!
I am sure it is fine. I saw some pics and everything looked really good to me. You may want to change that piece some day down the road, but it should be good for a long period of time.
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Beautiful work bud!!
Hello tony,
Thanks very much!
Do it nice or do it twice is my motto.
It doesn't take any more time to make it look good.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
great video. That's a lifetime installation!
*****
Thanks for the kind words!
The brass will be around for many quite some time. The tank may have to be replaced down the road again, but the installation will take no time at all.
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Neat looking job ...good vid ...
Hello radwkrea,
Thanks very much for the kind words!
Hopefully it will help with any future projects!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
At 5:30 if the tank should be empty of water and isn't, where is it? The only possible place is above the diaphragm due to a leak, isn't it? If that is the case is it possible to pump air into the valve and force the water out, and if that works, how long would it stay out? I am guessing that with a leak in the diaphragm that you couldn't get any air pressure to build, at least with the water valve(s) open, but maybe getting some water in the bottom of the tank perhaps enough air pressure could be put in above the diaphragm to get some function, certainly temporary? I don't know. Is a tank getting waterlogged something that happens all at once or over time?
I have a similar setup as your video, and appreciate
Your comments about the tank T manifold. I understand
You as saying do not use a one way check valve and and pressure pop off valve when a jet pump is in place. In other words, those items are only used with a submersible
Pump? Thank you for the concise video
Hello Kris,
You're welcome!
A check valve can be installed in the pipe coming from the well with shallow well jet pump. I have used them in the past where the foot valve has become faulty. I place them in line right off the pump heading down the well.
With a two pipe system which is generally a deep well; you have one pipe that is suction and one that is the return to the well. A check valve on one or both of these lines would serve no purpose.
A submersible pump can pump the pressure up and over 100 PSI and higher that could cause serious problems to pipes in the house so a pressure relief valve is installed. I have seen these relief valves blow off. Put out a lot of water if the pressure switch does not cut out.
A jet pump could possibly reach that pressure, but I have never seen it. Chances are slim to none.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Do you recommend putting a whole house filter before or after pressure tank? Thanks!
Hello FlyingWyoming,
I always recommend and install the filter after the tank.
I have never seen one installed before the tank.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
hey there, thanks for all the awesome videos! Is there a such thing as a 180 degree PEX fitting or a copper, brass or other material fitting to use with PEX? What happened is my home has a slab foundation, and I'm abandoning in the ground as much heat system piping as I can. I have oil heat, hot water baseboard heating. I want to mount new hot water baseboard and be able to run a 3/4" supply and return from each required baseboard run. Some baseboards may require me to go to it, then double back the other way to return to the boiler. I want to do a 180 as simple as possible, since it will run through walls. What do you think? Thanks again for all you do!
+RJ F
I have run it back through the baseboard on many occasions.
You can use 2- 3/4 copper fitting elbows or a regular copper elbow and a copper fitting elbow depending on what end you are attaching to for the return line. These two combinations will allow you to go back through the top of the baseboard.
Hope this helps...
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
+TheOldkid888 thank you! I will probably be tackling this job later this year. Will keep you posted!
RJ F
You are more than welcome!
Have a great week! Al
Thanks for you video. Question: How the water log happened?. In order to be water log doesn't the valve at the top of the tank have to release air so that the water can occupy more space in the tank?. Just asking.
Hello Eric,
Great question!
The air above the water will eventually mix with the water and the water will slowly rise to the top of the tank and fill the vessel.
Years ago they made tanks that had no bladder in them and they used a mechanism called an air volume control that brought a minute amount of air into the tank every time the pump ran. They worked very well and are still used today.
A company then made a glass lined tank that had a Styrofoam disc in it that floated up and down with the water and helped prevent the water and air from mixing. It worked well, but over time the tank had to be drained and the pump would be turned back on leaving air above the styrofoam. The air helps prevents the pump from turning on every time the water is used as the air is compressed when the pump kicks in and pushes the water out of the tank until the pressure switch reads a low level and the pump turns again.
The bladder tank came along and the air volume control was not needed as the rubber bladder in the tank prevented any water from mixing with the air. The only time this happens with this tank is if the bladder gets a pinhole or tear in it and over time the air is blended with the water and the tank becomes waterlogged.
Hope this answers your question.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
I noticed the pressure gauge and the sediment port, switched position from the dry set-up to the finished plumb. Does it matter which side of the pressure tank port they are on? I have a double drop Myers jet pump and know I will be changing the fittings (possibly entire tank) in the coming months. I really enjoyed your video. The lay out of pieces, great description as you worked, in an easy professional tone.
Hello Peg,
Thanks very much! Greatly appreciated!
It doesn't make any difference what side of the tank tee they go on.
One thing to keep in mind is you probably have a gauge and pressure switch on your pump so there may be no need of installing them on the tank tee. You can simply plug them off.
I am a brass fan. Keep in mind; I prefer using couplings coming off and going into the tank tee because they do split easy. Unfortunately I know it to well. That's the reason for them and then you have no worries of splitting the tee.
Thanks for commenting and feel free to ask any other questions.
Enjoy your weekend! Al
Thanks for the quick response, and again, thanks for the great video!
Hello Peg,
You're welcome!
Have a great day! al
I have a dark grey plastic (PVC?) tank Tee. Do you recommend using them? Thanks
Hello Ian,
I have seen a number of PVC tees installed in tanks with no issues.
I prefer brass myself. Just a brass fan.
When installing either one of the two you must be very careful not to cross thread the fitting on the bottom of the tank.
Not all of them are plastic, but most of them are as it makes for a lower cost in manufacturing.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Thanks for the tip on applying the teflon tape. Can pipe dope be used on these fittings in a water supply situation? How can you tell if the clamp is all stainless-just had a problem with the nut rusting although the clamp was fine-your work looks nice
+john james
Pipe dope can be used on the threads by itself, but I prefer using a few layers of teflon and quite often will apply a thin layer of pipe dope over the teflon. It is like an insurance that there will be no leaks or weeps.
As far as clamps go; if you look at the clamp you will usually see All stainless steel etched in it. If you don't see All SS the screw is steel. Have seen many problems when it comes to the steel screw.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your holidays! Al
Thank you
john james
You are more than welcome!
Thanks for commenting! Al
Great video!
Hello wjb111,
Hopefully it helps with any fuftre projects!
Thanks for the kind words and enjoy your week! Al
Great video but a question for you I am a HVAC tech who dabbles a little in plumbing so a jet pump on top of a water pressure tank doesnt require a pressure switch?? I seen you put a plug to cover where I have a pressure switch on my own homes unit. I dont have a submersible pump like I said the pump is in basement w the tank. Please lmk
Hello Wild Man,
All pumps require a pressure switch whether it is located on the tank tee or the pump itself. In this video the switch was located on the pump as it is jet pump. Most jet pumps have the pressure switch on them as this is what controls the on/off action. I have seen some hooked up with the pump in the tank tee to control the pressure. The switch is what tells the pump to come on when the pressure is low and turn off when it reaches the pressure that satisfies the switch..
A submersible pump is controlled by a pressure switch that is installed where the plug was installed in the tee. Just like the jet pump...the pressure switch is needed on all pumps to regulate low and high pressure.
My apologizes for not showing more in regards of the switch in this video. It will happen on the next video on pumps.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Any other questions...feel free to ask!
Ok I thought so lol
All good brother!
interesting as i am just going to install one of these in my house in the philippines ..would this system work ok if the pump is pumping from a well in the garden ??
Hello John,
It would work from anywhere and a lot depends on the depth of the water and how far you are going to pull it up. A shallow well works to a depth of 25 feet. I am not exactly sure of the situation you have there, but testing should be done to ensure no contaminants.
Hope this helps...any other questions feel free.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Hi Al, I’ve been a subscriber since the very beginning of your channel. Really enjoy all your tips and installation videos. Was just curious if you’re planning any new videos? Enjoy your channel. Tom
Hello Tom,
Thanks for hanging in there! Much appreciate it!
I hope to get back into it in the very near future. Won't get into any details of why I stopped making them, but am planning on them very soon! Stay tuned!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
As far as your concerns about the tank tee at around 7:50 - if you don't have the reducing coupling could you just put a, 1" in this case, coupling on the tee and go ahead and screw the nipple into the tee? Wouldn't that reinforce any weakness in the tee casting? I am guessing the nipple would slide inside the larger size coupling.
Hello bigpardner,
A 1" coupling on the tank tee would work great as well. Thread a male adapter into it and you would be all set. I generally reduce the pipe size there as many homes have a 3/4" supply line to attach to and that is why I use the reducing coupling.
I have had a few issues with the tank tees before; so threading a coupling on both ends takes care of that problem.
One less worry.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Thank you. If one was using a pressure relief valve with a submersible pump, should the valve outlet have a hose going to a drain or outlet if no drain is nearby? In my case most of the basement is finished and carpeted. I guess there is a drain somewhere but this was all there when we bought the house so I'm not sure where it would be. It would be a bad situation to have the well pump filling the basement. At present there is no relief valve. I am guessing the tank and fittings are original to the house and are over 30 years old so I plan on putting in new.
plastic pipe going into metal, how tight can one turn it, and does it need more Teflon turns, etc, any comment would be appreciated...do you like the flotec jet pumps? thanks
Hello pei broker,
The plastic is actually attached to a Viega pex male adapter which is screwed into a brass elbow.
I generally place about 5 windings of Teflon around the threads of any fitting. If the Teflon is thin enough to see through I will probably double that.
I haven't had a great any experience in Flotec jet pumps. I have installed Berkeley, Gould, Myers and Grundfos to name a few. They are all good name brands in my books.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
As far as tightness, tight enough that it doesn't leak. Hand tight plus 2 full turns ought to be a good start, if it leaks tighten it more. It's tougher to gauge with plastic as it slides easier than metal on metal.
Get two channellock pliers number 420, using those you would be hard pressed to break anything and you should be able to make joints tight enough repeatedly.
Hi Oldkidd----My question is----you say----If you have a submersible? (which I do), what is the difference between what you are hooking up in this video?
Thanks so much.....my temporary and portable pump house (built on pallets) has a bad tank, but soon will be building a real pumphouse. I like Brass too.....American, but can see Vancouver Island from my island----Good Day
Hello txbob,
No difference in connecting a submersible pump to a new bladder tank. Exact same procedure.
Only difference is the pump switch. If you are installing a new switch it must be no lower than a 30/50 cut in/cut out. The more important of the 2 is the cut in. Should always be 30 or more.
I am a huge brass fan myself. Use it wherever I can.
Must be a beautiful location where you live.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Are you using galvanized fittings with copper pipe or is it all copper?
Hello jab353,
I am using brass fittings in the entire tank installation and coming off the valve with pex.
I am then joining it to copper.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
Can you use plastic pipes or PEX instead of metal ?
How long should a tank last ?
Would installing a bigger tank make the pump last longer ? It should at least give some water longer during a power outage...
Dicofole
I would stick to metal pipes coming off the tank as you want to be able to screw it into the tank and apply the gauge, switch and drain valve easily.
Tanks can last from a few years to many decades. I have seen the older glass lined galvanized tanks last for a number of decades. Everything depends on water quality. If your water is acidic obviously it won't last as long as one that is installed that has a neutral PH. I guess you could say they are similar to cars as well. You could have a tank that last for many years with no issues or you could have the exact same model that only lasts for a very short time and the bladder fails.
A bigger tank would allow more storage of water in your home, but there is a point where it really doesn't make sense to install one that is massive. It would make a difference as far as losing the power in that aspect.
I saw where a company installed a huge tank in someone's home trying to correct the problem with the well that was not producing enough water. The size of the tank made no difference as the well only could produce a small amount of water in a minute....measured by gallons/minute. I am not a believer in small bladder tanks as the pump will run quite often if a large amount of water is consumed.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
I guess for long water usage; garden etc best for a lare storage pressure tank to minimize pump cycling ?
Really enjoyed your video!
I'm having a couple of issues with my well system that I'm hoping you could comment on. First, my system pressure continues to increase after the pump shuts off (60 psi) to approx. 70 psi. Then secondly, with an open faucet, I'll decrease the system pressure to 45 psi and get a supply interruption (no flow) of 3-4 seconds before the pump turns on at 40 psi. The pressure tank precharge is correctly set at 38 psi with no pressure in the system. Any thoughts on what might be causing these two issues?
I was able to repair it myself today. Going on the premise that this system is completely original (put into service in "97) except for the pressure gauge which was replaced last summer, I decided to remove the pressure switch, gauge, and the two galvanized 2" nipples and "Tee" joint they were assembles with.
1) I removed the diaphragm cover plate from the bottom of the pressure switch to find the rubber diaphragm completely wore out (but not leaking) and caked with metal flakes.
2) One of the 2" nipples was about 95% closed off with rust, metal flakes, and red "mud".
Replaced the plumbing, pressure switch, and a better quality pressure gauge (Campbell Hausfeld...not the crap home depot sells) and have the system back up and running perfectly.
Hope this might help someone else.
Hello BigSidtrous,
Congrats on the repair!
I am sure your input will help someone else with the same situations. Thank you for that!
I am all about brass fittings. I never have any issues such as plugged lines when I use brass.
The switch itself is a common problem. I have seen that dozens of times. They pick up any minerals in the water along with pieces of scale.
Whenever a pump either hesitates to cut in or out for a period of time; that is the place to look first.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Wasn't exactly part of my Christmas Eve plans...but oh the joy of home ownership! My wife was happy we weren't without water all weekend. I'm also thinking my 19 yo pump tank will be next to go bad...I might think about replacing that as well. Do you have many problems sourcing all those brass pipe parts at you local plumbing supply store? I'm pretty sure the big box stores don't sell them...wouldn't be comfortable buying them even if they did.
I'm a novice so this is all pretty new info. I'm getting ready to replace the pressure tank and pump along with the pressure switch. Could you explain why you didn't need to install a pressure switch? Thanks.
Hello Jay,
Not a problem.
The pressure switch is located on the pump.
If this was a submersible pump I would have had to install one in the tank tee.
Any other questions; feel free to fire away!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Great video
Hello petecoffman9048,
Hopefully it helps with any future projects!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
It is a 2 line pump from the well. Unfortunately I finished the project and I had put the check valve in before you answered my question. Will it hurt to leave the check valve in my 2 line system or should I remove it?
Great video!!! Could you please help me I read all the comments and no one has this problem, all day every day my pump kicks on every three minutes and stays on for 30 seconds without any water running anywhere's it's a submersible pump the valve gauge isn't working its stuck on 68 pounds. I have good water pressure and everything seems fine, except every 3 minutes it's kicking on. It's burn my pump up I'm afraid.
I'm thinking I need a new bladder, switch and valve?
Hello Robert,
One of two things is going on with your situation.
You either have a joint in the well that is bad such as your pitless adapter or the check valve is gone in pump. Either way you have to get it looked at relatively soon or your power bill will be through the roof.
I first came across a problem exactly like this 35 years ago. A friend of mine found something was wrong was when he got his light bill. He was away for two months and received a very high bill.
We were lucky enough to find the problem just by listening as you probably have. The switch licks in and out often.
So it isn't your tank or switch, but a leak in the well that is either one of the two that I mentioned.
I would imagine your well casing is above the ground with a cap on it? You can remove the well cap and look to see if the leak is on the pitless adapter that will be found about 4 or 5 feet below the surface. They made some pitless adapters out of galvanized material and they weren't made to last. Most that I have come across are made of brass that last for decades.
If you do not see a leak there then hopefully it is the check on the pump and not a joint on the piping.
By installing a spring loaded check valve in the line that enters the house, you will prevent the water from going back down the well.
So what happens is the pump comes on and turns off once the switch has reached the high pressure limit. In your case the water goes back down the well and drops the pressure to the low limit and the pump kicks in again.
I would wait too long to get this repaired as it is costing you money 24/7.
I hope this helps.
Here is a video that I made on the check valve installation if you are interested...
The old plumber finds unexplained high electrical bill...Water related
Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance. Al
Thank you!!
I had a Plummer come over last night and showed me everything. My pitless is ok it's my foot valve draining the water back down, the spring loaded valve must of went bad. Everything you said is absolutely Correct thank you. He couldn't fix it cause it was too late last night so this weekend I'm gonna try to fix it with my dad. It looks easy enough, pull it out replace the foot valve (22$ Home Depot) and then just put back in. Hopefully it's that easy 🙏🏻
Hello Robert,
You don't have to pull out the pump. You only have to install the check valve in the line where it enters the house. You need four stainless steel clamps that will fit over 1 inch pipe. Two 1" brass by barbed male adapters. One spring loaded check valve. A roll of Teflon tape. Turn the pump off. Shut the valve off leaving the tank as this will prevent the water from draining from the entire house.
Make the tefloned male adapters into the check valve and place up against the pipe getting proper distance you will need to cut out. Slide two clamps on either end of the pipe and install the check. You may need to heat the pipe with a torch just a little to make it more plyable for the fittings to slide into.
Check out this video; it should help...The old plumber finds unexplained high electrical bill...Water related
Thanks for commenting and good luck with the project! Al
TheOldkid888 I have a submersible pump. We pulled it up 4 feet and seen there is no water below the pitless. It's draining right back in the well. A new foot valve would stop it from going back down. Correct or I'm I missing something. Thank you!
Hello Robert,
That inline check valve I mentioned is what you want to install.
There is NO foot valve in the bottom of your well with a submersible pump. They are only installed on single and two line jet pump systems where the pump is on the surface and the lines feed into the well.
The water is flowing back because the check that is built into the pump is faulty. Installing the spring loaded check valve that I mentioned earlier is the easiest by far of correcting this problem.
the video I mentioned in my previous notes will show how it should look when it is installed.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Hey thanks for that, this has helped me a lot.
Hope all is well miss you’re videos.
Hello BRICEN18,
All is well! Thank you!
I hope to get back on track in the near future.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
anyone know what happened to TheOldkid888 (video's author)?? This video is 3 years old, and it was the only video he posted that year. He has some great DIY plumbing videos, good explanations. Really enjoy the tips, tricks, and other small details, most often these "small details" can make a Huge difference, and it's sadly what most youtube videos always seem to leave out.
do you need to check the air in the tank at times, and if so what are the steps to do it
Hello GmGarlo,
When you first go to install the tank you check it then. You make sure it is 2 pounds below your cut in pressure.
If your pump switch is 30/50 then you set it at 28.
Once it is set then there is no need of checking it. You are all set.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Install shallow well pump
How many cucumber seed do you plant in your garden and how far a part
'
Hello Pete,
I actually start planting the seeds in seedling starter trays and then transplant to the garden once the last frost in June has passed.
This year we will be planting a few different varieties. We will be planting at least five dozen plants. Some for pickling, juicing and eating. It could be more than that. Juicing uses one a day!
We plant them between 12 and 18 inches apart. We install a trellis as well and train them.
We use kelp fertilizer as well. Amazing stuff!
Thanks for commenting and happy gardening! Al
Do you suggest a check valve?
Hello petecoffman9048,
If you have a submersible pump or a shallow well with a single line coming from the well I would suggest a spring loaded check valve be installed in the line before you get to the tank. If you have deep well jet pump which requires two lines to operate a check valve serves no purpose as one line lifts and the other line pushes back down the well.
Check valves can be installed on this type of system.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy the holidays! Al
this was great thanks
Hello PBS #007,
You're welcome!
Hopefully it helps with any future projects!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
thanks for the video
+Jody Shaw
You are more than welcome!
Hope it helps out with any future projects!
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
I see that you come off the pump with 3/4" and switch it to one inch. Is it ok to come out of the pump with one inch and not 3/4".
Hello stratcat250,
You can come off the pump with either 3/4 or 1".
Coming off the pump with 1" is fine. Some pumps have outlets that are 1" in size and it saves using reducing coupling off the pump. I have seen it done with 3/4 to the tank as well. You want to keep the pipe size at least 3/4.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the project! Al
Its a good idea to add a union between the T and the pressure tank. This way if you need to change the pressure tank if the future, [and you will], you dont have to disconnect all the lines to the T to replace the tank. You just unscrew the union, replace the tank, and hook the union back up. A couple dollars now saves work in the future.
Hello Barry,
Good suggestion.
Nipple out of the tank and then the union and tank tee unless you go with a few tees and a short nipple to install your pressure switch and drain valve. Will keep the line a little closer to the tank.
Thanks for the input and have yourself a good weekend! Al
Nice video, but you could sure use some extra lighting so people can actually see what you are showing.
Plenty of light over your sink, but that's not the problem area.
This on the job video, it's not a video production. There is probably a celling light over the sink.
Lots of good tips here. Do I understand correctly that no relief valve is installed? I have a similar tank and it says it needs one in the system or else risk injury or death.
Hello heted1,
That is correct.
This is a jet well pump and the pressure cannot reach that high a pressure. If this were a submersible pump I would definitely suggest a relief valve. I have seen submersible pumps exceed 100 psi and pop the valve. Should always be installed on submersible pumps.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Can you not check the tank to see if it is waterlogged by checking the tank pressure after the pump cuts off? It should still be 28# ?
BustersRyder
Good question!
Once the pump cuts off the pressure in the top of the tank will be that of the pressure switch which will be the cut out pressure. So if the pump cuts out at 40 or 50; that is what the top of the tank will read. You must remember there is 28 pounds on the tank before it is even installed; so the pump pushes against the bladder and increases the pressure in the air space above it.
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Good job
Hello Jimmy,
Hopefully it helps with any future projects!
Thanks for the kind words and have a good week! Al
If I missed it I apologize. Why did you stop making videos?
When's the next vid al ....would love to see what you been up to champ!!
Hello Top-notch Contracting,
I have been falling way behind on videos. Should see some in the very near future!
Have a few lined up.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
@@TheOldkid888 can't wait sir!! Your content is A1
I have a well pump and water tank...every morning my water cuts off for 5 -7 minutes. Its like all the water in the lines runs out...then it starts back and no more trouble all day...can u help
Hello juju,
What I believe is happening with this situation is the line going to the pressure switch is becoming plugged. Very common problem that occurs on almost every pump over their lifetime.
I made a video on this topic that can help correct this problem.
Well trouble...losing water pressure;pump not cutting in at correct pressure.
Do you have a jet pump in the basement or a submersible in the well?
Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance.....Al
hey...I have a submersible pump and thanks for getting back to me...so what do I do?
Hello juju,
There are a few ways to fix this problem.
You can turn the power off and drain all the pressure out of the system.
Remove the wires on the switch and unscrew it from the nipple going into the bottom of it.
If the nipple is galvanized I would replace it with brass myself. Minerals don't generally build up in brass as compared to galvanized.
If you don't want to remove the wires and switch; after you have drained off the pressure, you can remove the six screws on the bottom of the switch plate with a stubby screw driver. and lift the switch from the plate.
This will allow you to clear the nipple since this is where the problem lies.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Can a piston pump use a bladder pressure tank
Hello Adam,
You can use a bladder tank with a piston pump. Check the pressure switch on the pump and drop the air in the tank 2 pounds below the cut in pressure. If you have a 20/40 pump...the air in the tank before you turn the pump on after hooking it up should be 18 pounds. If it is a 30/50 switch...drop the air to 28 pounds. There is a snifter valve on the top of the tank that where you can either put air in or remove just like a bicycle tire.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Did Canada have a ban on lead in brass yet. We have to use lead free.
+Brian Crandall
I did not hear anything about lead free in brass. Lead free solder has been used for a long time now. Viega fittings are lead free which could be the start of things to come. No doubt it is not far off for all fittings.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
We have to use lead free and its more expensive and the solder doesn't flow as good.
Brian Crandall
Lead free solder has been in Canada for quite some time now. It takes more heat as you know and definitely doesn't flow like 50/50 does. I find on smaller joints to have no big issues, but when using it on larger diameter pipe you can have some serious gaps in the joint and it doesn't cap like 50/50 does.
Takes more time to solder when you run into these this type of situation.
Thanks for commenting and have a great weekend! Al
Good job, doing it right. Brass costs more but well worth it..... no pun intended.
Ozzstar
Thanks for the kind words!
Brass does cost more, but it will be around for a very long time. I would sooner spend a little extra and have fewer worries. Galvanized works fine too, but you can have issues with it if your water carries a lot of minerals or is acidic.
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Hi, very nice video.
I'd like to ask a question. I have a pump with a controller (like this www.italtecnica.com/index.php?ip=4&cat=1&prd=48&l=2) but it stops the pump when there is no open faucet. I'm planning to install such tank, and because the pump is working till there is an open faucet it pumps up to about 87 PSI. Should I add pressure reducing valve or I should change this controller? Thank you for your advice.
Hello Marin,
A tank this size simply shortens the life of the pump. Cutting in and out also uses much more energy.
I have seen this in several homes where a very small tank has been installed.
I would definitely change the size of the tank and the pressure switch. I generally install a 30/50 switch myself.
What type of pump do you have in the house?
Thanks for commenting and get back to me when you get a chance...Al
How come no check valve to protect pressure from pushing back into a pump?
Hello farmer,
No need of a check valve between the pump and tank as the foot valve prevents any water from flowing back.
I place them in the line coming out of the well when a submersible pump is being used. The reason for this is to prevent any water from going back down the well should the check valve in the pump fail. Should it fail and no check valve is in the line; the pump will continuously cycle on and off. It happened to a friend of mine 30 years ago and he got a 500 dollar light bill in the summer when he was away at his bungalow. You will hear the jet pump run if there is any kind of a problem.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
That makes a complete sense. Thanks for replying.
Thank you.
Hello Shawn,
You're welcome!
Hopefully it helps with any future projects!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
TheOldkid888 putting in a new one tomorrow . Wish me luck.
Hello Shawn,
best of luck with the installation!
Hope everything goes well for you! Al
How do i remove the system now that im on city water
Hello Jimi,
You turn your power off to the pump. Turn your city water off.
Drain the pressure from the system and cut the pipe a few inches from the first tee off the line from the pimp. You can either use a Sharkbite cap or solder a copper cap on the end of the pipe. A Sharkbite cap would probably be the way to go as you wouldn't need to purchase any soldering gear. Be sure to mark the pipe before installing the cap......most important. You want to make sure the cap goes on the proper distance. The cap will go on the pipe 7/8ths of an inch if it is 1/2 pipe and 1 and 1/8th inch if it is 3/4 pipe.
Then you can remove the old pump and tank along with the few feet of pipe that comes off the tank. If you are not planning on removing the pump and tank immediately be sure to disconnect the wire on the pump and place a few marrettes.
Very important. You do not want anyone turning on the breaker or power to the pump as it would create quite a mess.
Hope this helps!
Any other questions...feel free to ask.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week!
Best of luck with the project! Al
What's the clear line?
Hello Mixed Boi Jones RC,
It is called braided beverage hose. Some people call it braided pump hose. It should only be used on a positive pressure line as it will contract if there is any kind of negative draw.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
pluged pressure relief port why is that?
Hello dino vistroni,
They can leak over time. The pressure at some point may have come close to popping it and it didn't set into the same groove where it was seated before. Relief valve on a boiler can work in the same manner. I have seen that before and I have seen them pop when turning the pump back on.
You should replace it if it is plugged.
The relief valve prevents the lines in the house from springing a leak by relieving the pressure should the pump go above the high limit switch. I would rather have it let go in that area then in a ceiling somewhere.
Hope this helps!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Why didn't you check the pressure in the valve for the air bladder?
Hello Ryan,
My apologize for not having it on video. I did check the pressure before hand.
I always do. I always set it 2 pounds below cut in pressure pressure which in this case would be 28 pounds. The pressure switch on the pump was a 30/50.
I have found tanks to be all over the place as far as pressures go. Mostly higher than cut in.
Thanks for commenting and have a great week! Al
@@TheOldkid888 I'm curious, why wouldn't you set the pressure higher? Like say 60lbs. The bladder would then take up more volume right? Or at least to the pressure you want to run the pump at. Isn't that usually the norm?
Hello Ryan,
The normal pressure is two pounds below cut in. If the air pressure in the bladder of the tank was at sixty pounds your pump would be cycling on and off more often as it would only be able to push a smaller amount of water into the tank as compared to it being set two pounds below cut in. Basically you are allowing the pump to put more water in the tank and cut in and out less.
The starting of any motor is where the highest peak draw of power is found which is more costly than when it is running. So allowing it to run longer and less often; filling the tank with more water will prevent the pump from cycling in and out as often.
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
@@TheOldkid888 thank you for answering that! Have a nice day :)
Great 🎉🎉🎉
Hello umadas102,
Hopefully it helps with any future projects!
Thanks for the kind words and enjoy your week! Al
hey. Canadian boy (yes Al that you), please make more vids. lates.
+dave daved
Stay tuned! Coming soon Dave!
Thanks for commenting and have a great New year! Al
+TheOldkid888 you are up early. Going to work. im going to work. lates
installed new pump but still no water ?
Hello Robert,
The problem is more than likely in the well with the jet assembly if the pump has been replaced.
You will probably have to pull the lines and either clean or replace the assembly.
I generally replace the assembly as you are assured not to have any problems for some time.
Thanks for commenting and best of luck with the repair! Al
Why use hose instead of pvc pipe?
Hello Mark,
You can use PVC, but braided hose is much more flexible. Very easy to use especially where quick turns are required.
This is what I was first shown 40 plus years ago and I have used it ever since with no issues. At all the wholesaler's in our region; contractors simply ask for pump hose and the supplier knows exactly what they are talking about.
Thanks for commenting and have a great day! Al
Replace the well tank? Screw it, Just give it air every month. We have a couple old ladies where there long past husbands had piped an air compressor into the old(no bladder) well tank. So once a month they just open the test valve and if they get water out they open the air valve for a bit and check the test valve again.
The old speedair compressors last many decades. Thankfully their husbands set them up well.
Hello skoronesa ,
Adding air will help, but tanks that have bladders in them can only take in so much air. The pump will still kick in far too often.
Over time it would cost more to run the pump then change the tank. Doesn't make a lot of sense to me. Having to add air every month means a lot of cut in and out of the pump. Shortens its life as well.
You should talk them into a new tank and save them some money.
Have a good one! Al
My tank req 38 lbs. came pre pressurized
Hello john pietros,
Your cut in pressure must be at 40 pounds then. The general rule is have the air two ponds below the low cut in pressure.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
Galvanized piping is the same as black iron after a month.
Usually even worse, they must think the zinc barrier means they can use carppier steel.
Hello skoronesa ,
Galvanized isn't as bad as black, but it does build up with minerals and deteriorate over time. A lot depends on the water quality. I have never seen black last as long as galvanized. Spend the extra money and go brass. Never have a problem.
Thanks for commenting and have a good one! Al
why not just use all pvc. lo pressure !
You must be from the east coast.
Flatten it OAT.
Hello EvaBongoria ,
You picked that one right! N.S.
Generally not hard to tell if you have spent any time in this region at all!
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Where is the check valve??
Hello F Thomas Crowley Jr,
I would only install a check valve if this was a submersible pump.
It is not required if not as the foot valve in the well prevents any water from flow back into the well.
Would you suggest putting one somewhere?
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Hey why dont you make videos but comment back on people comments
What? You can learn everything you need to know by reading the comments in this video...Google anything else
black iron on potable water? thats a biiiiiiiig no no here in canada
Hello S.K Mechanical,
For certain! BIG NO NO!
I am not even a fan of galvanized myself, but it sure beats black iron on potable.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
@@TheOldkid888 i work in high rise buildings i see galvinized completly clogged with rust its crazy!
Hello S.k,
Copper, brass, pex and cpvc is the only pipe that should be used on potable water.
Galvanized is better than black iron ( anything is for that matter), but minerals can build up on it very quickly and lead to serious trouble.
I see it so often. People trying to save a buck on something they depend on daily to survive. Contractors should get with the program as well. I guess they look at it from a point of repair. Better piping....less repair and less initial cost for them.
I have seen a well company drill a 500 foot well with casing up the wazoo and install galvanized pipe and a cheap gate valve coming off the tank. SERIOUSLY! Charging the homeowner thousands of dollars for the job. I don't have an issue with that. They are expensive to drill, but the gate valve didn't even last long enough to keep the water shut off until I connected the piping; so I always installed a 3/4 ball valve above it. Time and time again.
Imagine if they had spent about $3 dollars more they could have covered a ball valve. crazy!
Anyway..my rant for the day.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your weekend! Al
Would it not be better to say the pressure tank “ bladder “ is ruptured? I can’t for the life of me comprehend a metal tank being “ waterlogged “ a wooden one yes or a sponge sure but steel? Never. Just sayin!!!
Hello Richard Temby,
I know what you are saying. It is a term that has been used in the plumbing world for many decades. It is not just used on pump tanks, but also expansion tanks on heating systems. Basically it is because the air has been replaced with water and it should always contain air to work properly. There is no bladder on the bigger expansion tanks of heating systems, but the air slowly mixes with the water over time the tank becomes filled with water causing the systems pressure to rise when heated and popping the relief valve. The new smaller tanks on the heating systems do have a bladder. The bladders don't rupture as such, but generally get a pinhole in them and over time the water fills the tank. All that being said...I know how you are thinking.
It's a term used for decades and will continue no doubt.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
go all pvc. much cheaper !!!!????
Hello Linda,
Definitely cheaper, but I will stick to the brass. Never lets me down. Up to the individual I guess.
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your week! Al
good on t bar fittings only. you did not show or tell what you set tank pressure at or how you drained or disconnected the old tank.or how you installed new tank. your how to do video is useless. to a handyman.
Or, or, or
Not very good advise.
Hello Curtis,
Sorry to hear that!
Exactly what part is it that you thought wasn't good advise?
Thanks for commenting and enjoy your day! Al
Advice is there, your comprehension is not