Yes to #5, putty + superglue! Been doing this 30+ years! Putty is generally soft, and superglue hard, compared to styrene, so they don't sand evenly with the surrounding plastic. But let superglue soak into the putty, and you get something that's about the same hardness as the surrounding styrene!
My final tip would be to look at some of the water based putties. You can shape them with a moistened Q-Tip, and remove excess. This is great when you are trying to preserve detail around the fill. Downside is they take longer to cure.
Aaron, Micro balloons are very useful, but can be highly carcinogenic to the lungs if care and proper handling are not followed. One should never get them near where they can be inhaled and should wear a dust mask at minimum when working with even the smallest amount. Just my experience when working with them on aircraft composites.
So Tim do ever use Mr Surfacer 500, 1000 or 1500. The Mr Surfacer that comes in the bottles. I use many of what you demonstrated except the thin styrene strips, will remember that tip. But i do the Mr Surfacer's, i dont mix it ot stir it, just pull some out will an applicator an put/push into the gap. Always with tape masks all the sides of the gap. I stopped using spru goo because of this little trick. Note: sometimes i do have apply more than one layer.
Silicon rubber clay sculpting tools are great for applying putty neatly. They have a nice combination of stiffness, with just enough give to feather the putty.
I put the filler powder on the model before applying the CA. You can shape it a bit to reduce the amount post filling clean-up. Another trick is to use scotch tape as a backing to fill through holes or even extend flat surfaces with the powder/ca combination.
Black rubberized CA like BSI IC-2000 solves the hard CA problem. Plus, being black it’s easier to see where it is. Best thing about CA is it doesn’t shrink like most other fillers.
Good set of ideas. I have had all of the problems that you have shown. I am definitely going to try the super glue over putty to eliminate the issue that you described.
I like the styrene strip method, but I use stretched sprue the same size or slightly bigger than the gap. It fills nicely, plus you are basically welding the parts together, and don't have to worry about putty cracking or splitting.
Another option is to get an old paint or glue bottle. Fill it with bits of plastic sprue, then pour in MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), or Tamiya liquid cement to melt the sprue creating a semi liquid plastic filler.
I like using the "glue and squeeze" technique, but after i squeeze the fuselage together from the sides, I squeeze from top to bottom. It lessens the chance of having a gap in the wing joint.
A trick I learned from Will Pattinson is take the fret of some photoetch, cut it so that it fits into a #1 X-Acto knife handle, and use that as an applicator.
The applicator shown is the Glue Looper. I believe they are up to five different models of the applicator currently. Most models are made to be chucked into an X-acto style handle while the latest one can also clip into a scalpel handle.
All fantastic tips, but I have one for you. A lot of new hobbyists and a lot of them don't know about the hazards associated with some putties, solvents. Short disclaimers would be greatly appreciated.
Sprue goo is an excellent method. For anyone reading this comment, we have a video for making sprue goo for your plastic models: ruclips.net/video/PGYY7bTfFIE/видео.html
Yes to #5, putty + superglue! Been doing this 30+ years! Putty is generally soft, and superglue hard, compared to styrene, so they don't sand evenly with the surrounding plastic. But let superglue soak into the putty, and you get something that's about the same hardness as the surrounding styrene!
Thank you. Loved the putty tape tip
My final tip would be to look at some of the water based putties. You can shape them with a moistened Q-Tip, and remove excess. This is great when you are trying to preserve detail around the fill. Downside is they take longer to cure.
Heck yeah! We used water-based putties in our original video about putties. They definitely have their place. ruclips.net/video/YdJ4aVXMK-Q/видео.html
Aaron, Micro balloons are very useful, but can be highly carcinogenic to the lungs if care and proper handling are not followed. One should never get them near where they can be inhaled and should wear a dust mask at minimum when working with even the smallest amount. Just my experience when working with them on aircraft composites.
So Tim do ever use Mr Surfacer 500, 1000 or 1500. The Mr Surfacer that comes in the bottles. I use many of what you demonstrated except the thin styrene strips, will remember that tip. But i do the Mr Surfacer's, i dont mix it ot stir it, just pull some out will an applicator an put/push into the gap. Always with tape masks all the sides of the gap. I stopped using spru goo because of this little trick. Note: sometimes i do have apply more than one layer.
Silicon rubber clay sculpting tools are great for applying putty neatly. They have a nice combination of stiffness, with just enough give to feather the putty.
I put the filler powder on the model before applying the CA. You can shape it a bit to reduce the amount post filling clean-up. Another trick is to use scotch tape as a backing to fill through holes or even extend flat surfaces with the powder/ca combination.
Good tips!
Great shirt Aaron! Another option for large gaps is 2-part epoxy such as Aves. You can smooth it with water or alcohol and sands smoothly!
Cool shirt Aaron!
I have the Klingon D-7 on the shelf to be built. Thanks for that tip!
Black rubberized CA like BSI IC-2000 solves the hard CA problem. Plus, being black it’s easier to see where it is. Best thing about CA is it doesn’t shrink like most other fillers.
Good set of ideas. I have had all of the problems that you have shown. I am definitely going to try the super glue over putty to eliminate the issue that you described.
Great! We're glad to have been a help.
I like the styrene strip method, but I use stretched sprue the same size or slightly bigger than the gap. It fills nicely, plus you are basically welding the parts together, and don't have to worry about putty cracking or splitting.
Excellent suggestion! We do the same and have a video about stretching sprue that we linked in a comment above.
@@FineScaleModelermagazine just don't let it hollow out as it stretches quickly.
I use stretch sprue from the kit, color and material matches the model. I place it in the gap and use Tamiya liquid cement to "melt" it into place.
That works! We have a video on stretching sprue if those reading this are wondering how to do it. ruclips.net/video/jl9F10fp-go/видео.html
Another option is to get an old paint or glue bottle. Fill it with bits of plastic sprue, then pour in MEK (methyl ethyl ketone), or Tamiya liquid cement to melt the sprue creating a semi liquid plastic filler.
Typically called sprue goo in wargaming circles. It is often the most common one used.
Sprue goo for the win! ruclips.net/video/PGYY7bTfFIE/видео.html
I was a little surprised he didn't mention it. Ideally, with the kit's own plastic.
Wood Filler or Acrylic Latex Caulking are also reasonable options to consider.
I like using the "glue and squeeze" technique, but after i squeeze the fuselage together from the sides, I squeeze from top to bottom. It lessens the chance of having a gap in the wing joint.
Thanks for sharing
You're welcome!
When they say a LITTLE fiddly be prepared for the frustration to follow :)😊
LOL Too true, Dennis. Too true.
Where can I get one of those glue applicator blades?
I've seen them at Hobby Lobby but a piece of old wire does just as good at no cost.
A trick I learned from Will Pattinson is take the fret of some photoetch, cut it so that it fits into a #1 X-Acto knife handle, and use that as an applicator.
The applicator shown is the Glue Looper. I believe they are up to five different models of the applicator currently. Most models are made to be chucked into an X-acto style handle while the latest one can also clip into a scalpel handle.
Here's the link to the manufacturer's website: www.creativedynamicllc.com/the-glue-looper.html
All fantastic tips, but I have one for you. A lot of new hobbyists and a lot of them don't know about the hazards associated with some putties, solvents. Short disclaimers would be greatly appreciated.
Sprue goo is an excellent method. For anyone reading this comment, we have a video for making sprue goo for your plastic models: ruclips.net/video/PGYY7bTfFIE/видео.html
What a great T-Shirt!❤
Sprue goo is my goto gap filler then comes squadron putty.
Like your T-shirt !
No sprue goo?
Not a go-to for Aaron. But we do have a video about making it: ruclips.net/video/PGYY7bTfFIE/видео.html
Sprue goo and Mr Surfacer 500 ... my methods
Nice shirt. Shaggy as The Doctor!? Zoinks!!
Just a comment for the algorithm