2023 Voron 2.4r2 Part 12: CAN bus (Octopus Bridge), Klipper, Web GUI, Wiring
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- *** UPDATE 6/7/2023: If you plan on using input shaping, set the CAN bus speed to 1000000 as I had issues at 500000 ***. This video is specifically for flashing Klipper CAN firmware using the Octopus built-in bridge mode. There is no need for a USB to CAN adapter. Please see links below.
Step-By-Step Documentation for this Video:
docs.google.co...
West3D Printing Introduction to CAN Bus:
• Introduction to CAN bu...
STM32CubeProgrammer Version 2.13 Firmware Upload Error:
community.st.c...
BTT Octopus Git Repo w/ Documentation and Original Bootloader .hex files:
github.com/big...
VoronDesign General (non-CAN) Software Install and Firmware Flash:
docs.vorondesi...
KB3D EBB36 Documentation:
wiki.kb-3d.com...
Arksine CanBoot:
github.com/Ark...
KIAUH:
github.com/th3...
Awesome video and walkthrough I just used it to set up my trident using Octopus Pro and EBB36! First time using CAN and your walkthrough was great! Thanks for posting!
Super Anleitung! Vielen Dank für deine Arbeit!!! 👍
I can safely confirm that this works on EBB Sb2240, awesome work my friend many many thanks 💐💐 I struggled a lot with this before, now with your documentation all is working fine. Kudos for you 🌷...
Also I have used STM32 cubeprogrammer v2.14 it seams that they have fixed the bug the u encountered with 2.13
Thank you for the feedback on the STM32 cubeprogrammer version, glad they got that fixed. Kudos to you for committing to the SB2240, I was too lazy to do any additional soldering after the S/B NeoPixels lol.
Got to admit... The most important bit of information in this Video was the information about the Heatsink not going onto the STM32 😑
So many gotchas. You figured out same issues i had, but i got pissed and sent it all back. I don't see need for can. Good precrimped umbilical using igus robot grade cable would be much better imo
Given the little I know about the CAN's purpose, I think I'll wait till there's a wireless version. Sending voltage and ground only to a wifi or bluetooth capable device to me seems more practical.
Why is the positive on the 5V PSU, the negative on the 24V PSU: It shouldn't matter. Maybe someone tried to optimize for groundloops? But this is a non-issue here
Polarity of the heater wires: I have yet to build the voron and I'm therefore not familiar with the SSR. But in general for a heater the polarity is irrelevant. I'd have to look into the circuit to see if the mismatched polarity is a problem here
Thank you for the feedback, I also saw online that polarity for heaters and thermistors don't matter. Those were not specified in the assembly manual either.
Mine won't set on DFU mode, I don't see it showing up on my computer despite having BOOT0 pin. Is there another way around this ? Maybe via the SD card
Hey thank you so much for your time and your video, it helps me great. but i stuck on the install pyserial everytime i have a error with 'pip3 install pyserial'.
'error : externally-managed-environment'. can anyone help me there please
Since you've got the cable chains already installed - is there any reason you couldn't route the CAN bus cable through it?
Hi, could you help me? I am stuck for the last 2 days.
So, I am able to write the firmware using STM32 to Octopus Pro and EBB36.
And when connecting to Pi, I can see Octopus pro with the command.
la /dev/serial/by-id/*
But, as soon as I upload klipper firmware to. Octopus pro(by serial as mentioned in doc).
I can no longer see the octopus pro. I get this error after flashing klipper.bin for octopus pro.
ls: cannot access '/dev/serial/by-id/*': no such file or directory
I can however see the UUID for both octopus and ebb36 and was even able to flash klipper to ebb36.
I am really stuck here.
So i am a bit stuck, maybe you have an idea :)
First of all, board (octopus 1.1 stm32 446) seems to work and is recognized by USB initially, when i try to go into DFU mode nothing happens, at all. Neither on a Pi, or on a windows machine.
When i try to flash the build firmware with an SD card it seems to flash fine, the file gets renamed on the SD card to .cur, but the board is not showing up on USB anymore. Status light reacts to reset button by going off and back on. I can hower fix it by flashing it with a sdcard again with the btt original usb firmware. After that usb works again, but still no DFU.
Verified all settings in menuconfig, seems fine and i am not new to this at all. tried usb power and 24v power as well.
Any ideas would be welcome.
I'm having the same issue with the same board version. How you manage to find a work around ?
@@PadBoll i got it to work in the end but can not for the life of me remember what i did anymore as its some time ago, really sorry
@@devilmastah Thanks anyways ;)
Hi, thanks for the valuable information. I was wondering if you had to set a 120ohm resistor on the Octopus Canbus terminal. I don't see any jumper on the board.
I did not have to set any 120 ohm resistor on my Octopus board. Only the EBB36.
@@Driver732 thanks for clarifying!
Hi your Google docs file no longer opens 😢
Great video. What XY end stops are you using? I see you don't have a Y drag chain.
NM, you cover that in Part 10.
@@jonathanmitchell7411 I am currently using the second Y end stop relocate but either one shown in my videos should work. Remember to re-adjust the Z end stop and bed afterwards :)
Hello.
So with octopus we don't need USB to can adapter for raspberry. Can we connect toolhead directly to octopus and control it from raspberry?
Correct, at least on the boards I used. I connected the 4 CAN wires directly from toolhead EBB36 to Octopus Pro.
@@Driver732 thank you for answer. Will wait when people will fix some problem in canboot bootloader for all models of microcontrollers
@Driver732 Do you have a step by step to setup the CAN directly on the octopus? building, flashing, wiring etc.? I ask becasue I made an attempt on it myself. When it failed I got a U2C board that unfortunately seems to be broken (no dfu mode available), so it confirms that it must be best to get it to work on the octopus instead. Currently I am using my EBB SB2209 using USB com instead of CAN so I have both a USB and a CAN cable wired up (CAN cable to supply the toolhead with 24 volts) and it really nags me using 2 cables when basically only needing one.
Ok never mind that. I went ahead and re-watched the last couple of seconds of this video and realized that you are actually already linking to a step by step. Sorry and thanks. I can see how I failed since I never flashed canboot to my octopus. Just my toolhead board.