I could not take my eyes off Mr. Hitchcock's suit! It speaks volumes about his refined aesthetic and skill as a tailor. It is a very flattering silhouette for the mature body. Thanks Kirby for bringing us to these wonderful craftsmen!
Imagine working or doing a job for over 30 years and still speak about it as enthusiastic as Mr. Hitchcock does in this video. How many of us can say the same? True artist.
I’ve been reading about tailoring, following tailors online and getting suits made for over a decade now and Mr. Hitchcock has the best explanation and example of straight vs crooked. -Chris
Looking at Mr. Hitchcock's suit fit makes me certain he is the best out there , his suit fits him perfect and reflects his true mastership. Thanks Kirby for bringing this to us .
The relationship one has with its tailor is so unique. In 2017 mine retired and it took at least 2 years to rekindle the connection I had with him at the same house. Ofcourse, you stick with the overall style of the house but there's some minute details that go unnoticed once, twice... err... thrice... and you have to rebuild that muscle-memory recognition of comfort and style that you had with your previous tailor.
I loved listening to how you adjusted your comments and questions once you realized you were occasionally speaking "past" each other. A sign of a maturing interviewer. You did great job. Very informative video. Thank you Mr. Hitchcock.
Yeah he’s too keen in showing how knowledgeable he is. Which, if you listen carefully he gets quite a few things wrong or maybe 70% correct. It’s best to shut up once in a while and let the master talk even if you may know the subject matter.
Bespoke tailored haberdashery is a real art ! My grandfather who raised me always wore tailored suits, dressed for dinner, so I can easily tell if a man is wearing a suit fitted by: a tailor, a seamstress, or...,( not at all/ off the rack.) 🙁 And, when my 'suitors' showed up wearing a suit off the rack my grandfather ran them off. 😂🤣
Key insights: 1. Your suit should look great even when you're in motion, it wasn't designed to be but on a stationary mannequin. 2. No matter how expensive the suit, if it has a collar gap (whether you're stationary or in motion), you need a new tailor.
I developed a relationship with a French Tailor in my area. She is so old school she does everything, but i once brought material over from Italy that is super expensive but relatively cheap if you buy the roll. She took it and made a couple of suits that before the Pandemic were my absolute favorites, and only wore on special occasions. It was expensive but totally totally worth it
I am loving the interviews with these great tailors! As I get older and can finally afford bespoke tailoring, I almost regret that retirement is nearing. I may not need many more suits going forward. A blessing and a curse. Keep up the great content!
Mr Hitchcock was so open with his knowledge. Kirby you are an exceptional interviewer, making relatively complicated and specialised topics accessible. I never would have imagined I would stay glues for the full half hour of this video!!
I am planning on attending a tailoring academy in a couple months. Seeing these videos is a wonderful supplement while I wait for my shears, and bide my time till then. Super informative, Kirby, you ask great questions, an important hallmark of an interviewer. Even just watching Mr. Hitchcock talk about how he processes drape and fit, and the most important points, like the nape, sidebody, top chest, and how it pulls the coat in different ways. Fascinating, Wonderful stuff.
That was SO educational for those if us who are amateur tailors. Thank you, Kirby! It seemed at times you two were speaking different languages. Crazy how much goes into a well cut jacket. Very technical.
I love Steven, he is amazing because he is so full of knowledge and one of the few Media-heavy tailors/cutters who actually fully understands the all the ins and outs. Helps he was trained as a coat maker maybe. But gosh darn Kirby needs to let the man talk. Geeesh
The suit Steven is wearing is absolutely perfect, everything about that suit is perfect, the colours the shape, absolutely everything is spot on, I want that suit.
Thank you for introducing with great bespoke tailors worlwide, Mr Hitchcock is the best tailor I have ever met, it's nice to spend time watching this glamorous videos. Thank you Kirby
If a tailor actually took physics equations into account when making their garments I would be extremely impressed. Like using the shape of the body and gravity to create the perfect drape. Using friction to create the perfect shape while in motion. Using refraction and how light works for fabrics to make crazy patterns that change color, change weaving patterns, etc. I wouldn’t wear it, but I’m sure some eccentric person would want a 3 piece suit made out of a special fabric that goes from plaid, to houndstooth, and then solid depending on the conditions or the angle you’re looking at. Or even better, a fabric that uses refraction to literally make someone appear skinnier or bulkier depending on what they want. A tailor can already make someone look their best if they are super skinny, bulky, or over weight, imagine if they also had a fabric that could do most of the work.
Another excellent video Kirby - well done! It was fascinating to get an insight into Stephen's vast knowledge about the bespoke process. One small point: I think that you interrupted a bit too often - when he was in his flow you ought to just let him speak!
@@kirbyallison you may just be the worst interviewer i have seen. you like to hear your own voice instead of the person being interviewed. not as bad as it used to be, you never even let them talk a few years ago.
@@louiscyfer6944 I disagree: Kirby’s video style is way ahead of what it used to be. He has to control and lead the interview in order to ensure it flows and that the information is cogent for the viewers.
@@russ9921 “controlling the interview” - that’s done through great questioning. Go watch some old Larry King clips. He still talks too much and asks a question while the previous question is still being answered. Basically too quick to cut people off before they’ve finished a thought - or finish their sentence for them.. which is bad form when it comes to interviewing. It was terrible years ago, still just OK at best.
Can someone comment on where the shoulder and the sleeve meet of Mr Hitchcock's jacket? Is it just right or is it a little bit sewn too much to the to the front? Would it make sense to rotate it counter clockwise so it's a bit more to the back? Thanks.
Beautiful suit on Steven, you would never know he a a bit of belly. That double breasted, gorgeous. Steven seems so passionate, it looks like he could talk about his work all day long. If memory serves, in a video from a couple of years back Leon Powell from Anderson & Sheppard talked about training under Mr Hitchcock, I wonder if that was Steven or his father. Great to see you including tailors from off the Row, they all seemed to have had their training and early years working for the big houses so you know they are all going to be top notch. Is it just me or has every London tailor you've talked to said the same thing about that high arm hole, seems a constant in the tailoring world.
25:19 if the canvas had a horizontal dart at the waist would this allow the chest part to be on the bias and the skirt to be on the grain?? Maybe cloth doesnt work that way - it is like engineering on a building! Different load rating (pull, give) for each location 😊
I enjoy watching your videos they have so much information, sometimes you do verbally cut across the person you are talking to preventing them from answering your question.
I love the information about posture. I wonder though if someone has a slouch, would the tailor craft the shape to hang while they're slouched? Or would they cut it to enforce better posture on the wearer?
Probably the best double breasted jacket I have seen in ages , excellent shoulder line and superb fastening, with as he said some room in front, this gentleman knows his craft .
Incredible video/interview and description of the work. So detailed. I know this comment is coming well after the video but on the chance that it is seen, I am wondering if Mr. Hitchcock would recommend cutting on the bias for a linen jacket or is it already too drape? y?
Great video! Kirby, what I haven't been able to figure our or see it in your videos is that how much spacing should there be between the buttons on a double breasted suit jacket? Could you please address this question.
Guys what is the name of the type of jacket Mr. Hitchcock is wearing, I can see the collar of the shirt in kirby's jacket which is the really common but I don't see Mr. Hitchcock's shirt's collar. Why is that ?
Have any bespoke cutters used 3D laser scanning to produce extact measurements of the gentleman's entire body, and worked from those? Things like rounded backs, tilted coccyx, etc would be exactly accounted for, I imagine. I have no experience with this industry, other than patronizing it, so your experienced opinion is most appreciated.
I do wish Kirby would let the tailors speak more freely instead of interrupting them and making up his own terms for everything all the time. I understand he’s trying to translate into layman’s terms the technical language but it’s rather irritating at times, as is him talking over Steven constantly. Great video but it would be nice to hear the expert speak properly. Steven Hitchcock’s understanding of how to manipulate cloth and pattern to create a three dimensional garment to flatter the curves and form of a body, both when stationary and in movement, is fascinating and absolutely masterful.
Amazing the tailor's collar never moves from the neck, but KA's collar is sticking out....huh. Not a fan of big lapels, looks to costumey, for me....learn some things from this. Sounds like the tailor needs to do a few suits to really dial in the client.
![15 Suit styles reviewed by Master bespoke tailor [Style Guide] | Eric Jensen & Kirby Allison](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/R8xkFEPWuRI/mqdefault.jpg)
![15 Suit styles reviewed by Master bespoke tailor [Style Guide] | Eric Jensen & Kirby Allison](/img/tr.png)
I could not take my eyes off Mr. Hitchcock's suit! It speaks volumes about his refined aesthetic and skill as a tailor. It is a very flattering silhouette for the mature body. Thanks Kirby for bringing us to these wonderful craftsmen!
Imagine working or doing a job for over 30 years and still speak about it as enthusiastic as Mr. Hitchcock does in this video. How many of us can say the same? True artist.
nope just rich
he love's what he do and that's a beautiful thing for the soul...get paid (and very well) to do something you are passionate, great for him.
He speaks enthusiastically because he really enjoys this job.
I’ve been reading about tailoring, following tailors online and getting suits made for over a decade now and Mr. Hitchcock has the best explanation and example of straight vs crooked. -Chris
Looking at Mr. Hitchcock's suit fit makes me certain he is the best out there , his suit fits him perfect and reflects his true mastership.
Thanks Kirby for bringing this to us .
He certainly is an incredible tailor
He is certainly one of the most well dressed, and stylish tailors out there
"his suit fits him perfectly".... Does no one nowadays know the difference between an adjective and adverb?
@@waltersickinger263 fiber, loads of it, relieves chronic constipation great, I mean greatly. Try it Mr. Sick.
@@waltersickinger263 It takes a real dweeb to point this out in a RUclips comments section.
This was like a masterclass from a garment architect, what a wonderful piece and well held interview Kirby.
The relationship one has with its tailor is so unique. In 2017 mine retired and it took at least 2 years to rekindle the connection I had with him at the same house. Ofcourse, you stick with the overall style of the house but there's some minute details that go unnoticed once, twice... err... thrice... and you have to rebuild that muscle-memory recognition of comfort and style that you had with your previous tailor.
I loved listening to how you adjusted your comments and questions once you realized you were occasionally speaking "past" each other.
A sign of a maturing interviewer.
You did great job.
Very informative video. Thank you Mr. Hitchcock.
he still talks too much, but he has improved.
@@louiscyfer6944 i was gonna comment on that too. kirby still seems to cut people off while their talking which is annoying.
Yeah he’s too keen in showing how knowledgeable he is. Which, if you listen carefully he gets quite a few things wrong or maybe 70% correct. It’s best to shut up once in a while and let the master talk even if you may know the subject matter.
Bespoke tailored haberdashery is a real art !
My grandfather who raised me always wore tailored suits, dressed for dinner, so I can easily tell if a man is wearing a suit fitted by: a tailor, a seamstress, or...,( not at all/ off the rack.) 🙁 And, when my 'suitors' showed up wearing a suit off the rack my grandfather ran them off. 😂🤣
Key insights:
1. Your suit should look great even when you're in motion, it wasn't designed to be but on a stationary mannequin.
2. No matter how expensive the suit, if it has a collar gap (whether you're stationary or in motion), you need a new tailor.
I developed a relationship with a French Tailor in my area. She is so old school she does everything, but i once brought material over from Italy that is super expensive but relatively cheap if you buy the roll. She took it and made a couple of suits that before the Pandemic were my absolute favorites, and only wore on special occasions. It was expensive but totally totally worth it
Who is she. Interested. This channel doesn't cover the French School
Kirby is always well mannered, respectful and articulate. Thank you for another great video.
An absolute master Hitchcock is. I cannot wait to sit down and dive into this. Another great addition to the collection Kirby! Cheers.
Hope you enjoy it!
Y
I am loving the interviews with these great tailors! As I get older and can finally afford bespoke tailoring, I almost regret that retirement is nearing. I may not need many more suits going forward.
A blessing and a curse. Keep up the great content!
Mr Hitchcock was so open with his knowledge. Kirby you are an exceptional interviewer, making relatively complicated and specialised topics accessible. I never would have imagined I would stay glues for the full half hour of this video!!
I am planning on attending a tailoring academy in a couple months. Seeing these videos is a wonderful supplement while I wait for my shears, and bide my time till then. Super informative, Kirby, you ask great questions, an important hallmark of an interviewer. Even just watching Mr. Hitchcock talk about how he processes drape and fit, and the most important points, like the nape, sidebody, top chest, and how it pulls the coat in different ways. Fascinating, Wonderful stuff.
Love Steven Hitchcock's work. Been following for a couple months. Can't wait to commission some suits etc. Need a trunk show in san francisco.
That was SO educational for those if us who are amateur tailors. Thank you, Kirby! It seemed at times you two were speaking different languages. Crazy how much goes into a well cut jacket. Very technical.
I am glad it was helpful for you. You are right though, it is a lot of technical stuff in here. Steven knows his stuff!
the passion, a lifetime of knowledge and evolution really shines through in this , love the content Kirby.
Mr. Hitchcock is a legend on the row.
I love Steven, he is amazing because he is so full of knowledge and one of the few Media-heavy tailors/cutters who actually fully understands the all the ins and outs. Helps he was trained as a coat maker maybe.
But gosh darn Kirby needs to let the man talk. Geeesh
The suit Steven is wearing is absolutely perfect, everything about that suit is perfect, the colours the shape, absolutely everything is spot on, I want that suit.
Thank you for introducing with great bespoke tailors worlwide, Mr Hitchcock is the best tailor I have ever met, it's nice to spend time watching this glamorous videos. Thank you Kirby
Wonderful gentleman. Knows his stuff. His knowledge is more than his words can capture. Best of luck to him.
Love Stephen ❤. Great Master at his craft . He is a must follow on IG . Thanks Kirby for doing this
Just love Mr. Hitchcock's down to earth and energetic explanation for his fantastic suits.
If a tailor actually took physics equations into account when making their garments I would be extremely impressed. Like using the shape of the body and gravity to create the perfect drape. Using friction to create the perfect shape while in motion. Using refraction and how light works for fabrics to make crazy patterns that change color, change weaving patterns, etc. I wouldn’t wear it, but I’m sure some eccentric person would want a 3 piece suit made out of a special fabric that goes from plaid, to houndstooth, and then solid depending on the conditions or the angle you’re looking at. Or even better, a fabric that uses refraction to literally make someone appear skinnier or bulkier depending on what they want. A tailor can already make someone look their best if they are super skinny, bulky, or over weight, imagine if they also had a fabric that could do most of the work.
you sound like you just learnt these scientific words and wan tto show off
I have a PhD in Physics. Shall I become a suit maker?
@@shagouwong6130 uh yes. Especially if that’s your name. It already looks like it belongs on a label.
@@MisterRorschach90 Ha ha
@@shagouwong6130Very out of place "humble" brag.
Another excellent video Kirby - well done! It was fascinating to get an insight into Stephen's vast knowledge about the bespoke process. One small point: I think that you interrupted a bit too often - when he was in his flow you ought to just let him speak!
exactly.
“Mr. Hitchcock was a Head-Cutter”…first name Alfred. 🧐
Seriously though, a very quality appearing product.
Steven Hitchcocks explanations of his cut style are fantastic. Great video, Kirby!
The wall demo was eye opening, how the pattern swung one way then the other.
"One of the things, that I love about London is its beautifuly refreshing rain" :)
Great for the shoes! Lol
@@kirbyallison you may just be the worst interviewer i have seen. you like to hear your own voice instead of the person being interviewed. not as bad as it used to be, you never even let them talk a few years ago.
@@louiscyfer6944 I disagree: Kirby’s video style is way ahead of what it used to be. He has to control and lead the interview in order to ensure it flows and that the information is cogent for the viewers.
@@russ9921 “controlling the interview” - that’s done through great questioning. Go watch some old Larry King clips. He still talks too much and asks a question while the previous question is still being answered. Basically too quick to cut people off before they’ve finished a thought - or finish their sentence for them.. which is bad form when it comes to interviewing. It was terrible years ago, still just OK at best.
Can someone comment on where the shoulder and the sleeve meet of Mr Hitchcock's jacket? Is it just right or is it a little bit sewn too much to the to the front? Would it make sense to rotate it counter clockwise so it's a bit more to the back? Thanks.
(I'm amazed by the huge amount of road markings, especially in London, kept always in optimum state, given the often wet weather)
Kirby visiting Steven - that is a perfect combination! Thank you both for this video! 👏🏻
Beautiful suit on Steven, you would never know he a a bit of belly. That double breasted, gorgeous. Steven seems so passionate, it looks like he could talk about his work all day long. If memory serves, in a video from a couple of years back Leon Powell from Anderson & Sheppard talked about training under Mr Hitchcock, I wonder if that was Steven or his father. Great to see you including tailors from off the Row, they all seemed to have had their training and early years working for the big houses so you know they are all going to be top notch. Is it just me or has every London tailor you've talked to said the same thing about that high arm hole, seems a constant in the tailoring world.
Still useing a suite bought 30 years ago, there is no words for the quality. By the way its Italian made and bought it in my country México.
Kirby @ 9:40 did you notice your suit shoulders rose off your shirt when you moved your arms up and down? The exact way Mr. Hitchcock explained!
Tried to cut it and hide it lol.
25:19 if the canvas had a horizontal dart at the waist would this allow the chest part to be on the bias and the skirt to be on the grain??
Maybe cloth doesnt work that way - it is like engineering on a building! Different load rating (pull, give) for each location 😊
This craft of suit making is a great example of an artist's expression of himself.
I enjoy watching your videos they have so much information, sometimes you do verbally cut across the person you are talking to preventing them from answering your question.
I love the information about posture. I wonder though if someone has a slouch, would the tailor craft the shape to hang while they're slouched? Or would they cut it to enforce better posture on the wearer?
Extremely interesting. His level of knowledge is fascinating.
Great video, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Probably the best double breasted jacket I have seen in ages , excellent shoulder line and superb fastening, with as he said some room in front, this gentleman knows his craft .
Kirby I miss your office Q&A videos, they were alot of fun, you should do more of those!
Noted! We will do another soon.
I like Mr. Hitchcock crosses his arms during their conversation without being hammered by the “body language” people as “standoffish.”
I think you may have to arrange a trip to Tokyo. Ciccio, in particular. Another approach to the suit.
I had 2 bespoke suits made for about 11,000 recently, Loro piana super 170s wool, perfectly tailored, custom everything, love them
Mine is being made just now with also Loro Piana 170s wool. I cant wait to put my hands on it!!!
@@aceofsticks they feel like butter, the fabric lays beautifully. You’re going to love it
Incredible video/interview and description of the work. So detailed. I know this comment is coming well after the video but on the chance that it is seen, I am wondering if Mr. Hitchcock would recommend cutting on the bias for a linen jacket or is it already too drape?
y?
GREAT INTERVIEW VERY INFORMATIVE.
WOULD VERY MUCH LIKE TO HAVE A SUIT MADE THIS TAYLOR.
"He's got a 42 chest and a 36 waist. He's been working out to look good." I love this man haha
The way Kirby holds himself, most of these English have forgot, a bunch of tense stress heads and wee Kirby comes in like Sammy Davis jnr poise.
great work Kirby👍👍👍👍🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏we have alot to learn, yo such an inspiration 👏👏👏👏
Great video! Kirby, what I haven't been able to figure our or see it in your videos is that how much spacing should there be between the buttons on a double breasted suit jacket? Could you please address this question.
Fascinating show, well done.
JLC Reverso on Mr. Hitchcock's wrist?
Have you thought about Mark Powell of Soho - a top London tailor?
Personally I really like the soft drape cut. Redmayne does it that way and it suits me right to a tee
Mr. Hitchcook saludos desde Peru soy un apasionado de la sastrería artesanal
He hugged himself. Body language observation
Great upload, very informative.
And a Tip from me...........don´t forget the HIGHLY Talented Shoemaker in Japan!!!!!!!!!!!!
This one is so important. Outstanding!!
Another great video Kirby, or should I say documentary?...and Steven, what a great gentleman, what a great tailor...
17:59 wish the camera position would allow us to see a little better what he is describing … otherwise, Great video😊
-usa
Wonderful video!
Fascinating. A true master at work
Steven does truly exceptional work.
Hi your work is very good,l want learn from you, how can?
One of your best videos ever
Guys what is the name of the type of jacket Mr. Hitchcock is wearing, I can see the collar of the shirt in kirby's jacket which is the really common but I don't see Mr. Hitchcock's shirt's collar. Why is that ?
Wow 😮❤❤❤❤ MASTERY OF CRAFT 🙌🏾 RESPECT
When will you do another show fitting?
Fascinating.. thank you for such good content
Does Steven Hitchcock have his own RUclips channel.
I love his way of tailoring, tight on the sides
Steven: "I know it's difficult to understand...", but that's why they pay us the big bucks!
Brilliant
thx
When are you going to have a english suit comissioned?
Great sir
Fascinating…..one day maybe🤞
Have any bespoke cutters used 3D laser scanning to produce extact measurements of the gentleman's entire body, and worked from those? Things like rounded backs, tilted coccyx, etc would be exactly accounted for, I imagine. I have no experience with this industry, other than patronizing it, so your experienced opinion is most appreciated.
That pattern confirms: I will need more practice, in pattern making.
Greeting of the sir.
At there have a vacancy for me, I can measure.. I love working at tailoring
Amazing ❤️😍🔥
Was that back when the owner of Anderson & Sheppherd was Tiny Rowland?
Why are you asking about Tiny Rowland?
one day i will visit london and milan for a bespoke wardrobe of my own
first time i've seen a jacket with cuffs
Great video
I do wish Kirby would let the tailors speak more freely instead of interrupting them and making up his own terms for everything all the time. I understand he’s trying to translate into layman’s terms the technical language but it’s rather irritating at times, as is him talking over Steven constantly. Great video but it would be nice to hear the expert speak properly.
Steven Hitchcock’s understanding of how to manipulate cloth and pattern to create a three dimensional garment to flatter the curves and form of a body, both when stationary and in movement, is fascinating and absolutely masterful.
Very nice suit👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Going to enjoy this video tonight with a nice Negroni.
Enjoy!
Thank you sir for this vedio 👌
Amazing!
Thank you! Cheers!
I wonder where I can get Bespoke condoms.
Amazing the tailor's collar never moves from the neck, but KA's collar is sticking out....huh. Not a fan of big lapels, looks to costumey, for me....learn some things from this. Sounds like the tailor needs to do a few suits to really dial in the client.
ممكن ترجمه
Kirby Kirby kirbeee😀😀😀
Very good sar
This is great and full of really good info video so thank you, but, too much interjecting.
this time.
Brilliant this shows the flaws in Kirby’s blazer
It’s tough company, for sure.