Absolutely THE best water system video on the interweb today. It’s English, from an Englishman, describing how to build it using parts and fittings available here in the uk. No confusing US fittings and measurements. Spot on 👍
Hi. If you had chosen a marine calorifier instead, you would have two additional tubings in and out available to connect your engine cooling water. By doing so, every time the engine is running you make hot water and do not have to use your battery to warm up cold water. Most boats have this system, since decades. As a former sailor I put it on my campervan as well. Works like a charm. Good luck.
Another cool and informative video. Currently still trying to decide which route to go down regarding water & heating. You’ve now made my decision so much harder 😂👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland I finished my van last year, since then everyone is seriously upping there game, thinking about having a partial rip out and doing some things again. I noticed in your diagram you never included a water filter between the tank and the pump, any professional reason not to put a filter in? ❤️
@@aberdeendeltaforce I havnt fitted anything extra. Pump has a strainer in line bolted on to it. To be honest. For the upkeep the fort and the space. I just take bottled water. Boiling the tank water for brews won’t hurt ya. So I don’t bother. With a real filtration system I mean.
@@urbanarkoverland haha, yeah I never drink water out the tank either, I think I have a strainer in-line too, not an actual filter, just something to stop any little twigs or whatever that might find it’s way into the tank from entering the pump and causing damage.
Thanks great info. In progress on second van build and have not fully decided on water system. As a weekend warrior I have simply used cold water from 10l water containers which have been OK. And boiling water on the gas hob. But thinking of going for installation of a system
Great video as always. I used the 6litre with 12v and 240v heater coils, handy to heat the water on the move, and off grid (no inverter yet) but when we hookup it takes the strain off the 12v.
I did do a test when I first installed it, from cold I think its 40-50mins. On a good day my solar produces the amps required to keep up with the calriofier. Being on agm batteries (260ah) I do keep a close eye on usage with the victron bmv
We have a shower (recently installed) so yet to do a test to see if 6ltrs is enough water. The wife tested it and she was happy enough so that's a result 😆 🤣 😂
Great vid For me I use the bobil system as I'm all 12v and rarely run hookup or inverter. Why don't U add a temp gauge to the water and when it reaches 45⁰( which I find perfect for shower) and switch it off . I know U have Bullfinch so it's mixing cold n hot but 10 litres is plenty to have a relaxed shower and if only heating 10L to 45⁰ will save power .....
So informative, great work and tips. I am just trying to find your rear water mixer and can not locate a source for, neither the exact brand name. I am hearing 'Bowfing' or sounds like.
Dernord makes a 12v 600 watt heating element that treads into a standard water heater tank fitting. This allows you to not have to run your inverter to make hot water if you are stationary for a few days and do not want or need to run the engine. Dernord also makes 24v, 36v, and 48v elements for all types of off grid battery systems. You could also have it set up that when your house batteries are at 100% then all solar electricity goes into the water heater resistance element essentially using it as a dump load. Why have people gone away from sight glass on water tanks. The best ones are a two piece stainless plates with borosilicate flat glass window with several silicone seals. There is a bolt circle that secures the two stainless pieces to the tank wall with the glass window compressed in between. Simple, rugged, nothing electronic to break, nothing to repair, this type of sight glass is permeant and will not break off like the ones with a 90 degree elbow coming out of a tank with a clear glass cylinder acting as the sight glass and this is not sealed at the top.
Ye solar dumps are good. Thing is with the 12v elements they take 4 times the amount of time. The end power consumption is relatively similar. Just divided over a longer period
Possible to make this work with Victron for example so excess Solar automatically dumps to heating the water? Guess it would need an electric temp probe for starters? 🙂
Hi byes you can do that. Works off of the cerbo. Relay switches power to immersion heater when above any desired percentage. The immersion itself has a temp probe. So will turn off when at temperature. 👍🏻
Great video, did chuckle at the van porn when you were discussing the pitfalls of stressing a joint :-D I use a Bobilvans kit with a separate 20l tank and that takes 30 minutes to get to around 50-60 C but would have loved a setup like yours.
Recently I fitted a 30l surejust calorifier scrounged from a narrow boat. I haven’t plumbed it into the engine water circuit yet either. Mine does not have one but I thought the current surejust calorifiers were supposed to be supplied now with a non return valve in the cold feed as standard? if mine did have one I would have also fitted an accumulator in the cold circuit because I hate pump cycling. I bought the combined 12v dc / 230v AC immersion which I have covered off in one of my own videos. I heat the water on mains before leaving, 30l takes just over an hour to go from 20c to 70-80c Then the 12v element keeps it warm, that draws around 25A so can easily be mostly off set by Solar or when the engines running. I have the mains stat set to max to deal with any potential bacteria legionella etc. the 12v stat is set to about 65c. On mine the mixer valve failed, easy to replace but noticed online prices vary wildly so worth shopping around! There’s a fair bit of hysteresis in the thermostat so there’s not a lot of cycling, I have to draw a few litres off before it kicks in and it then runs for 20 minutes or so. Need to experiment with that, especially as on the move I suspect the colder water at the bottom of the tank will mix with the hot at the top! As obviously when stationary it not the entire 30l being heated. Like you, I might not even need to plumb it into the engine, time will tell. You missed mentioning a debris filter on the input to the pump, and an external outlet for the 4 bar pressure relief valve. It takes a fair while to bleed my calorifier of all the air, the pumps obviously got to shift 30l into it, I might fit a filling loop to bypass the pump and use gravity as my cold tank is inboard so when full there’s a bit of head. However for the time being we can leave the hot tank full even with the cold tank drained. That really speeds up refilling. Probably worth finding a way of capping you cold water inlet, I am not a great fan of them under the van, hygiene, dirt ingress etc bothers me.
I didn’t talk about the pump at all. As options are endless. Thought I did mention the prv. Said it was the last job I need to do. Now you’ve mentioned the non return ni would think there is one in the blending valve. Seems to be working great for me at the moment. I’ve since fitted a accumulator as well. 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland Ah yes it could be via the mixer, I’ve only got the single 5l expansion tank on the hot side and I haven’t noticed any luke warm water coming out of the cold tap which might be a consequence of it being pushed back through the tank. That would obviously only happen for a brief period of time whilst pump pressure was lower than the pressure from the vessel. Unless I left the pump turned off then I reckon the expansion tank could push about 2l back through the tank….. potentially yuk! I use a 2 bar shurflo pump, not sure what the pressure rises to once the water is hot I doubt it anywhere near the 4 bar of the cut off valve but I have got into the habit of drawing off some water once the tanks hot just to be in the safe side 😀 Handy video here on sizing an expansion tank ruclips.net/video/A2bpEh4hbVM/видео.html
AHH a plumber! Thank you! I'm just wondering as a full time van lifer (hopefully soon) should I put a filter before the pump? and then after the pump ive seen people use an accumulator but i dont quite understand it all, any advice? Thank youuu
An accumulator stops the pump from pulsing. And running when it shouldn’t. Filters…… pump has a water filter in line to stop debris etc. but as far as making it drinkable. No. Don’t bother. All that effort. Just carry drinking water in bottles.
Fellow plumber... Should the expansion vessel be tee'd to the hot on the outlet? I'm wondering if it should actually be tee'd to the cold inlet like you would an unvented cylinder in the home. This, I think, stops the membrane from degrading so quickly. Tidy install mate.
@@twistandturn02 no mate. On the hot. As most people put a check valve in the inlet and obviously designed to take expansion in the hot system. That’s my 10 pence 😀👍🏻
Thanks for the video! What is the name of the adjustable temperature shower adapter you point out at 7:30. I couldn't understand what you said. Thank you! Do you have a link for it?
Hi, like the idea of the water sender, does this connect to 12v power of is the gauge just activated under pressure?? Sorry if it’s a stupid question, this is all new to me
@@urbanarkoverland great, thanks for the info, I have ordered the bits to install once my tanks arrive. Just started my conversion and your videos are a god send, keep up the great work and hopefully We’ll bump into you at one of the shows once our van is complete 👍
Been following along with your builds when time permits and keep coming back to this vid as Im leaning towards the same hot water system you are running. Say is that a Shurflo Revolution pump you have there that eliminates the need for that big space-zapping accumulator thingy, if so what PSI is that for the 10L Surejust. Any help is appreciated. Love the vids man
Its off topic of your video but what are those round blue panel clips that I see on your water cabinet. I assume they allow you to pop off a cabinet face that you dont access to often. Do you know what they are called or where I can find them? Thanks
@@urbanarkoverland Thanks for the reply. I ended up finding them. Here is the information if you ever need to replace them. Hafele 262.94.024 Type 2 Fix
Hey, me again haha. Been so deep in research/ buying stuff for the electrical system, only just started looking at hot water systems. I must say I do like how simple this is! What size expansion tank did you go for? Cracking video as ever!
Would I be right then in thinking this is great for occasional use. Takes up smaller space in the van and no need for holes in the van for fumes extraction and no need for gas tanks. Whale and Truma are a bit bigger, need fuel not just electric, and gas vents? But better if using more hot water
Yeah. So I have. A truma combo boiler in my other van. Takes up ALOT of space. Needs gas supply. Flues and air vents like you say. This is literally plug in. 👍🏻👍🏻
Oh and another question is the 4 bar pressure of a hose enough to fill the water tank from bottom to top? I guess there are baffles in the tank so you aren't pushing against more than 25litres?
@@urbanarkoverland Nice, loving this build series there are some nifty tips and tricks. the goal zero make the whole set up simple and plug and play. Looking forward to the AUXbeam video that's a curious product, do you think you'll do a vid? Maybe your still assessing it?!
If you would not use the electric element in the colarifier but instead use the engine's cooling system to heat up the water in said calorifier would you then need the expansion vessel and a pressure relieve valve ? I am sourcing my parts to build my own calorifier system. I have a 14 L ATAG indirectly heated boiler (it is heated (normally by central heating circuit in the home) by cooling system heat from my van's engine. Since the temperatures of engine cooling circuits and central heating circuits in houses are of simular value that should be fine. The boiler has a mixer valve like your calorifier (in fact it looks like it is the same thing) and I have a 8bar pressure relieve valve on the shelf. I may have to get a expansion vessel still. The main difference between your setup and mine is the main water pump. Where you use a electric one with build in accumulator, I instead use a foot operated (UK made) pump build into the kickspace of the kitchen cabinet. Even if the engine was to overheat and send 90-100 degrees water to the internal coil of the boiler do you think the boiler will cause a problem bursting or cause hoses to blow off their fittings (I use hoses and stainless steel wire fasteners and hose barbs to connect things up from hose to copper (around the boiler is copper only, like your setup has)
Yes mate. Probably more so. The expansion vessel literally allows for expansion as water heats… it grows larger. The expansion vessel allows for this. When using the engine, the water will continue to get hotter. So it’s actually more appropriate 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland Thank you for your answer. Could I use a expansion tank from a vehicle ? These things have a cap which allows overpressure (varying from 1 to 1.5 bars) to escape the drinking water system. I could mount the tank in such a way they will always have a bit of an air space in the tank. The airspace would act as the bladder which is in most systems and would allow for some expansion as the boiler heats up... Again, there will be no pressure as such in the system when not in use. The whole drinking water system is operated by a footpump which can (maybe) produce 1/3 of a bar (10 feet of head. The system is small and based on a 19L cold water tank sat inside the kitchen cabinet and a 14L copper boiler with an internal copper coil out of a ATAG central heating unit...
@@koningbolo4700 it all sounds sound yes. But i couldn’t say for sure. What I would say is…. Why chance it. The little red vessels are so inexpensive and discreet.
@@urbanarkoverland I found the Fiamma A20 pressure vessel... Normally designed to catch pump cycle pulses and prevent nervous switching of the onboard water pump. It has a bladder which can be set to a range of pressures to adjust the syste,... I presume these vessels can be used to catch pressure buildups caused by water expansion...
The calorifier you bought has a coil so that it can be heated by the engine cooling water. Did you consider this option or was that calorifer package just something that suited your plans?
@@garyevans5335 no probs. In this van the hot water was a bonus for washing up. So just solely relied on electric. Also. Stays hot for 24 hours. So heat while ya driving and recharging. Then stays hit for at least a day 👍🏻
Hi, loving the videos, just curious why you haven’t used the engine coolant option and ran it through the coil. I have the same system and have it piped to the engine or use the element, depends on circumstances/location. I guess the goal zero is that good it is not an issue?
I’m truth mate. Like I said… hot water is an added luxury in this van. Not a necessity. For washing up and an outside shower. With little use. It’s not really a live in van like the black one. So was a lot of extra work for little gain. Similarly, I could heat water while driving via goal zero. And that would then be being recharged via b2b 👍🏻
Great video, we are wanting to run a similar set up! Quick question, do you need a hot water pump as well? or does the cold water pump supply a constant pressure to the hot water tank allowing you to withdraw enough water pressure for a shower etc.
Hi mate. Yes. Don’t think if the pump as a cold pump. Treat it as pressurised water in. You then feed all the cold outlets and one supply enters into the cylinder. It then becomes the hot. Which you then send to the outlets. So yes. One pump 👍🏻
I just watched your video testing the duration of hot water in the shower with the Truma combi, and I'm curious to know if the calorifier water heater system is more efficient and provides a longer hot water shower than the Truma combi.
10 litres of water is 10 litres of water mate. Neither reheat quick enough to think that you could use continuous. It’s all about how you use it. Hence the shower head 👍🏻
Is it mandatory to have the expansion tank? Also what size is the fitting that goes onto the brass outlet of the tank? Looks like you put on a fitting that converted it to 12mm then added on your 90° fitting.
@@urbanarkoverland Okay awesome I will get a expansion tank! I have been doing a lot of research this morning and according to the diagram online it says that the barb or brass coming out of the coloifier is 15 mm. I hope it is 15 mm and not 12 mm lol because I just ordered about $70 worth of fittings! I have the 40L Coloifier.
Hello You know your water heater calorifier system (which is brilliant nice one) - did you put blanks into the engine heater in/out ports or does it not matter ? - is there much heat lose around them ports ? As thinking of doing similar in a caravan idea got ticking around my head, thanks Sam
I'm looking at this and planning my own self build you say you have another van with a Truma if you were planning a long trip with a shower for a fam of 4 would you recommend the Truma diesel combi or this
Great question. I suppose it all boils down to how big your battery bank is. If you have ample battery. I would definitely go for this. 100 percent. But battery power is expensive. If you had an actual shower you could increase the cylinder to 20 litres and that would give you so much. I find myself losing faith in the truma. With all the posts on social about error codes etc. So to answer your question. If I was to start a build for me with a shower. I would go diesel heater. For heat. And electric immersion for water. Also….. lpg can be a pain to source.
I was going to go deisel heater and combi as lpg will be as you say hard to get my battery set up I've not got and I want to go hole hog tbh as I want induction hob and ninja pizza oven so if I need to add this to the list I might as well plan it if needed have you a link to this product so I can research some more
Just curious why did you go 240v over the 12v 6litre version? Maybe size?! The additional coil in the 10 litre I guess is just unused in this case and you will direct heat only? As you can heat on the move with 240v and goal zero inverter combo it is a no brainer and you can have hot water on tap is you are on site via 240v. Great video as always!🎯
Yes mate. Size of the cylinder was important. I’ve also heard the 12v element takes aaaaaages to heat up as it isn’t as powerful. Ideally you would heat as you drive and then you get to where ya going with 100 percent battery bank and hot water 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great video as always. Bit of a hypothetical question. Could this system be turned on and heating up on the move? Thinking about a similar system down the line but would be keen to have it on and hot for when I arrive somewhere or would you suggest only doing it once static?
@@Joe-nx7nj not saying that. Nothing say is ‘GOSPEL’. Just opinion mate. But bye. If it was a live in van. Lwb that kind of thing. Then ye. Could be an option. But a 144 that’s used twice a month for holidaying. Prob unnecessary
@urbanarkoverland got it. Yeah. It's difficult to make a decision. I am looking at a isotemp water heater at the moment. I have a tire carrier water tank, which makes me wonder if now i have to worry about freezing water and if i need to put some kind of heating element in thr water tank.
Sorry but galvanized metal is not suitable for exterior use. You need hot dipped zinc coating for exterior metal. that’s why they make those hot dipped sink bolts with the rough surface for. That thin galvanized coating does not prevent rust for very long
Best video I’ve watched. Simple and nice way of plumbing tutorial
Thanks you.
I'm about to plan a self build campervan - this is exactly the content I was looking for - Thanks Thanks Thanks - for making these "construction" vids
No problem at all. Enjoy
Absolutely THE best water system video on the interweb today.
It’s English, from an Englishman, describing how to build it using parts and fittings available here in the uk.
No confusing US fittings and measurements.
Spot on 👍
Excellent mate. Thanks
About time you released another video chief ;)
@@project-overland working on it mate 👍🏻
all good norman
👍🏻
Very tidy install and well explained. Great job. 👍👏👍
Cheers you
Excellent content and great explanation Really good simple safeguards. Love it.
Thanks
Great video very helpful 💪🏽🇬🇧👍🏽
Cheers you 👍🏻
Cup of tea and watching now
Good man 👍🏻
Mate bang on with 100%
👍🏻
Love your videos. Very well explained.
Thanks 👍🏻
Another great video. Great tips especially since this is the type of system I'm looking to install in my build. Thank you👍👍👍
Nice one 👍🏻
Great video 👍
👍🏻
Hi. If you had chosen a marine calorifier instead, you would have two additional tubings in and out available to connect your engine cooling water. By doing so, every time the engine is running you make hot water and do not have to use your battery to warm up cold water. Most boats have this system, since decades. As a former sailor I put it on my campervan as well. Works like a charm. Good luck.
Yes mate. Didn’t want to interrupt anything to do with the van. This conversion doesn’t even have a shower so it’s only a luxury bonus
thanks for the info, very good informative video.
Thanks for watching. 👍🏻
Another cool and informative video. Currently still trying to decide which route to go down regarding water & heating. You’ve now made my decision so much harder 😂👍🏻
Or easier ha
Tidy install and room to dry your boots too! 👍🏼🚐🛠
Yeah man 👍🏻😂
Very good mate .
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
THANK YOU FOR THIS!
Thank you.
Brilliant videos these mate, very helpful helping decide which way to go 👏🏻
Ah nice one. Hopefully it casts a bit of light on an option 👍🏻
Sorry should have started with amazing video especially the information on the whiteboard very simple to. Keep up with the good work
Thank you. Appreciate that.
Just when I thought I knew it all you come along and politely remind me I know nothing 👍
Ah don’t be harsh on yaself mate. Remember I am a plumber. Electrical video probably won’t impress 😂
@@urbanarkoverland I finished my van last year, since then everyone is seriously upping there game, thinking about having a partial rip out and doing some things again. I noticed in your diagram you never included a water filter between the tank and the pump, any professional reason not to put a filter in? ❤️
@@aberdeendeltaforce I havnt fitted anything extra. Pump has a strainer in line bolted on to it.
To be honest. For the upkeep the fort and the space. I just take bottled water. Boiling the tank water for brews won’t hurt ya. So I don’t bother. With a real filtration system I mean.
@@urbanarkoverland haha, yeah I never drink water out the tank either, I think I have a strainer in-line too, not an actual filter, just something to stop any little twigs or whatever that might find it’s way into the tank from entering the pump and causing damage.
@@aberdeendeltaforce yeah same as. There is a filter as part of the pump on the inlet. You can see in the video actually bits at the front.
Spot on, what you bringing to the overlanding show black or grey van.
Both 💪🏻
Thanks great info.
In progress on second van build and have not fully decided on water system.
As a weekend warrior I have simply used cold water from 10l water containers which have been OK.
And boiling water on the gas hob.
But thinking of going for installation of a system
It is nice to have. Although a luxury 👍🏻
You make me want a van.
You should want a van ha
Brilliant explanation other than how does the water pump shut off until on demand? I may of missed this step but I fully understood the video
@@ryanrider83 simple flow sensor. Open a tap. It comes in. Shut tap. It shuts off 👍🏻
Great video as always. I used the 6litre with 12v and 240v heater coils, handy to heat the water on the move, and off grid (no inverter yet) but when we hookup it takes the strain off the 12v.
Yeah. How long do you think it takes on 12v?
I did do a test when I first installed it, from cold I think its 40-50mins. On a good day my solar produces the amps required to keep up with the calriofier. Being on agm batteries (260ah) I do keep a close eye on usage with the victron bmv
@@paulhowes3788 ah that seems fair enough mate. Have you got a shower or is it just washing up etc.
We have a shower (recently installed) so yet to do a test to see if 6ltrs is enough water. The wife tested it and she was happy enough so that's a result 😆 🤣 😂
We have an external and full built in shower
Hi top job on the video, have you got a diagram on how you plumbed this in , it got a bit dark at the front of the tank to see where the pipes went
Hi mate. It’s literally two pipes. And it says on them. It’s cold in. And hot out where the blender is 👍🏻
sooo informative
Hope it helped 👍🏻
I need English subtitles because I can’t understand whether you’re saying “and accurate” or “inaccurate” which of course are opposites
Time stamp which bit.
Great vid
For me I use the bobil system as I'm all 12v and rarely run hookup or inverter. Why don't U add a temp gauge to the water and when it reaches 45⁰( which I find perfect for shower) and switch it off . I know U have Bullfinch so it's mixing cold n hot but 10 litres is plenty to have a relaxed shower and if only heating 10L to 45⁰ will save power .....
Hi mate. The immersion has a temp stat in it that does that. Just like household 👍🏻
So informative, great work and tips. I am just trying to find your rear water mixer and can not locate a source for, neither the exact brand name. I am hearing 'Bowfing' or sounds like.
Hi mate. Prob have a link for it in the description
Bullfinch 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Alright Aidan,
Just rewatching this one, John Guest fittings, do you see the point in the securing clips on these fittings ?never have myself yet 👋
Securing clips like fixings. Or the circlips that cock the ring?!
@@urbanarkoverland securing clips on the fittings, yes they lock the ring
I already have a handful of cock rings 😉😉I get those in the NHS nowadays 😂
Lock should I say ha
@@outdoorjunky1 ha ha. No mate never. You ever tried removing a speed fit fitting ha.
@@urbanarkoverland yes, difficult if fitted correctly, I’m still old school mate, solder lol, just thought I’d get your opinion as a youngster lol
Another great video. It looks fantastic. Do you have the details of the gauge and sender thanks
Just Google water gauge mate and it pops up. From marine industry. 👍🏻
Great video!
One thing i m intrigued is what type of fitting/ seal you use to get you pipes through the van floor (to the underslang watertank)
Nice question. I used a ip19 gland. For a wire initially. Just like you get with a solar roof gland. But bigger 👍🏻
Dernord makes a 12v 600 watt heating element that treads into a standard water heater tank fitting. This allows you to not have to run your inverter to make hot water if you are stationary for a few days and do not want or need to run the engine. Dernord also makes 24v, 36v, and 48v elements for all types of off grid battery systems. You could also have it set up that when your house batteries are at 100% then all solar electricity goes into the water heater resistance element essentially using it as a dump load.
Why have people gone away from sight glass on water tanks. The best ones are a two piece stainless plates with borosilicate flat glass window with several silicone seals. There is a bolt circle that secures the two stainless pieces to the tank wall with the glass window compressed in between. Simple, rugged, nothing electronic to break, nothing to repair, this type of sight glass is permeant and will not break off like the ones with a 90 degree elbow coming out of a tank with a clear glass cylinder acting as the sight glass and this is not sealed at the top.
Ye solar dumps are good. Thing is with the 12v elements they take 4 times the amount of time. The end power consumption is relatively similar. Just divided over a longer period
you could always heat your water while you drive if you have a way of charging the power bank from the alternator.
Yea mate. Realised I missed that bit of info. Top of the class 👍🏻
Switched Usb sockets are awesome. Can I ask where those are from
The zon ha 👍🏻
Hi there, great video and series. Can you let me know what water tank you used under the van?
@@jameshofton hi.
It’s from Shaun Barrett 👍🏻 barrett tanks
@@urbanarkoverland appreciate your fast response and all the vids you do, they really help me get confidence in doing a self build
@@jameshofton excellent. Hope you’ve subscribed. 👍🏻
Hi, brilliant vlog, very informative, could this calorifier be installed under the van?
Hmmm. The element is not ip65 or whatever. So it’s that, that makes it a no 👍🏻
Possible to make this work with Victron for example so excess Solar automatically dumps to heating the water? Guess it would need an electric temp probe for starters? 🙂
Hi byes you can do that. Works off of the cerbo. Relay switches power to immersion heater when above any desired percentage.
The immersion itself has a temp probe. So will turn off when at temperature. 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland ah excellent, thanks for the reply. Would make for a great setup 👍
Great video, did chuckle at the van porn when you were discussing the pitfalls of stressing a joint :-D I use a Bobilvans kit with a separate 20l tank and that takes 30 minutes to get to around 50-60 C but would have loved a setup like yours.
So many different ways out there huh 👍🏻
Recently I fitted a 30l surejust calorifier scrounged from a narrow boat. I haven’t plumbed it into the engine water circuit yet either.
Mine does not have one but I thought the current surejust calorifiers were supposed to be supplied now with a non return valve in the cold feed as standard?
if mine did have one I would have also fitted an accumulator in the cold circuit because I hate pump cycling.
I bought the combined 12v dc / 230v AC immersion which I have covered off in one of my own videos.
I heat the water on mains before leaving, 30l takes just over an hour to go from 20c to 70-80c
Then the 12v element keeps it warm, that draws around 25A so can easily be mostly off set by Solar or when the engines running.
I have the mains stat set to max to deal with any potential bacteria legionella etc. the 12v stat is set to about 65c.
On mine the mixer valve failed, easy to replace but noticed online prices vary wildly so worth shopping around!
There’s a fair bit of hysteresis in the thermostat so there’s not a lot of cycling, I have to draw a few litres off before it kicks in and it then runs for 20 minutes or so.
Need to experiment with that, especially as on the move I suspect the colder water at the bottom of the tank will mix with the hot at the top! As obviously when stationary it not the entire 30l being heated.
Like you, I might not even need to plumb it into the engine, time will tell.
You missed mentioning a debris filter on the input to the pump, and an external outlet for the 4 bar pressure relief valve.
It takes a fair while to bleed my calorifier of all the air, the pumps obviously got to shift 30l into it, I might fit a filling loop to bypass the pump and use gravity as my cold tank is inboard so when full there’s a bit of head. However for the time being we can leave the hot tank full even with the cold tank drained. That really speeds up refilling.
Probably worth finding a way of capping you cold water inlet, I am not a great fan of them under the van, hygiene, dirt ingress etc bothers me.
I didn’t talk about the pump at all. As options are endless. Thought I did mention the prv. Said it was the last job I need to do.
Now you’ve mentioned the non return ni would think there is one in the blending valve.
Seems to be working great for me at the moment. I’ve since fitted a accumulator as well. 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland Ah yes it could be via the mixer, I’ve only got the single 5l expansion tank on the hot side and I haven’t noticed any luke warm water coming out of the cold tap which might be a consequence of it being pushed back through the tank.
That would obviously only happen for a brief period of time whilst pump pressure was lower than the pressure from the vessel.
Unless I left the pump turned off then I reckon the expansion tank could push about 2l back through the tank….. potentially yuk!
I use a 2 bar shurflo pump, not sure what the pressure rises to once the water is hot I doubt it anywhere near the 4 bar of the cut off valve but I have got into the habit of drawing off some water once the tanks hot just to be in the safe side 😀
Handy video here on sizing an expansion tank
ruclips.net/video/A2bpEh4hbVM/видео.html
Hi. Looks an ideal system and fairly simple. With 350w of solar and 460a lithium heating it up on 12v would work well?
Yeah sure. It just takes longer.👍🏻
Thanks
AHH a plumber! Thank you! I'm just wondering as a full time van lifer (hopefully soon) should I put a filter before the pump? and then after the pump ive seen people use an accumulator but i dont quite understand it all, any advice? Thank youuu
An accumulator stops the pump from pulsing. And running when it shouldn’t.
Filters…… pump has a water filter in line to stop debris etc. but as far as making it drinkable. No. Don’t bother. All that effort. Just carry drinking water in bottles.
Great video again mate, did I miss a video on the bed build somewhere? 😀
No. That’s a secret ha ha.
Not my secret to tell 🤫
@@urbanarkoverland I had a feeling it might be 🥸 Can you share the size of the extrusion used by any chance?
@@ianpierce1888 40x40 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland your a star, thank you. 🙌
@@ianpierce1888 👍🏻👊🏻
Fellow plumber... Should the expansion vessel be tee'd to the hot on the outlet? I'm wondering if it should actually be tee'd to the cold inlet like you would an unvented cylinder in the home. This, I think, stops the membrane from degrading so quickly. Tidy install mate.
@@twistandturn02 no mate. On the hot. As most people put a check valve in the inlet and obviously designed to take expansion in the hot system. That’s my 10 pence 😀👍🏻
Just done the same, just need to plumb into the engine👍
I saw
Hi, wondering why it isnt plumbed into the engine? So engine hests amd then the element for stationary? thanks
Because I don’t want to go that far. Van doesn’t even have a shower 👍🏻
Thanks for the video! What is the name of the adjustable temperature shower adapter you point out at 7:30. I couldn't understand what you said. Thank you! Do you have a link for it?
Hi by his is the bullfinch shower. Amazing bit of kit. If you head over to my ‘6 must haves’ video. Full walkthrough and Amazon link.
Great series of videos, I may have missed it but did you make a video on the bed frame you have built?
No I haven’t made a video on that. Unfortunately it’s a secret. Not my secret to give. Sorry.
@@urbanarkoverland shame if that ever changes would be great to see how it was done, looking forward to the next update!
@@rob21974a no probs. 👍🏻
Hi, like the idea of the water sender, does this connect to 12v power of is the gauge just activated under pressure?? Sorry if it’s a stupid question, this is all new to me
Hi. You power the gauge yes. Then a twin wire goes from gauge to sender. It measures resistance
@@urbanarkoverland great, thanks for the info, I have ordered the bits to install once my tanks arrive. Just started my conversion and your videos are a god send, keep up the great work and hopefully We’ll bump into you at one of the shows once our van is complete 👍
@@bradleyclements7014 ah I’m glad to hear I can help. Good luck with the build 👍🏻💪🏻
What about maintenance? If used infrequently do you need to drain the system if not in use for longer periods to stop
Mildew / bacteria build up?
It’s never classed as drinking water. And to be honest it only holds 10 litres so it soon gets rotated for fresh.
Hi, can you advise what make the water gauge unit is please. Cheers
I cannot remember in truth. Sorry.
Been following along with your builds when time permits and keep coming back to this vid as Im leaning towards the same hot water system you are running. Say is that a Shurflo Revolution pump you have there that eliminates the need for that big space-zapping accumulator thingy, if so what PSI is that for the 10L Surejust. Any help is appreciated. Love the vids man
I believe the pump is the dometic. I have fitted an accumulator after this video as it purged quite a bit.
@@urbanarkoverland Thanks for the response, I know you sold that build on, it was a nice simple build with all one needs.
@@alitheiaziton5188 ye it’s a beauty
Its off topic of your video but what are those round blue panel clips that I see on your water cabinet. I assume they allow you to pop off a cabinet face that you dont access to often. Do you know what they are called or where I can find them? Thanks
That’s exactly what they are for mate. Have a video on the garage furniture.
Not sure what they are called.
@@urbanarkoverland Thanks for the reply. I ended up finding them. Here is the information if you ever need to replace them. Hafele 262.94.024 Type 2 Fix
@@kylecarson2395 nice one. They work a treat 👍🏻
SUBBED is all this something i can get as a pack somewhere can i hire you to do mine when i need it ? we are looking for a hgv or bus right now .
I can supply stuff like this.
Not in a position to install currently.
Thanks
You don’t have an accumulator after the pump? How do you avoid that annoying pulsing from the pump at the tap?
Ha. I do now. The pump says you don’t need one. You do
@@urbanarkoverland thanks for the confirmation 🤗🙏
@@mattnewman8103 I did mention on my instagram But you may not have seen
@@urbanarkoverland yep missed that, only just found your great content 👍
@@mattnewman8103 ah thanks for tuning in 👍🏻
Great video! Which size aluminium profile have you used for that bed structure? 40x40? or 30x30?
40x40 👍🏻
Hi Q in what way is the extension live can one get a shock in plug into inverter to heat your water ?
Hi. Odds are the same as if was plugging into a household outlet. No reason you should get a shock. If concerned. Plug in. Then switch on 👍🏻
Hey, me again haha. Been so deep in research/ buying stuff for the electrical system, only just started looking at hot water systems. I must say I do like how simple this is! What size expansion tank did you go for? Cracking video as ever!
Hi mate. Glad I can help. It’s 2 litre 👍🏻
Would I be right then in thinking this is great for occasional use. Takes up smaller space in the van and no need for holes in the van for fumes extraction and no need for gas tanks. Whale and Truma are a bit bigger, need fuel not just electric, and gas vents? But better if using more hot water
Yeah. So I have. A truma combo boiler in my other van. Takes up ALOT of space. Needs gas supply. Flues and air vents like you say. This is literally plug in. 👍🏻👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland seems to make more sense for occasional use to me, combined with a diesel heater. The weekend warrior setup!
Just need a good battery bank and inverter
@@robww5921 that’s literally my setup yes 👍🏻 easy. And clean.
Plus…. Gas a pain to get hold of sometimes.
Oh and another question is the 4 bar pressure of a hose enough to fill the water tank from bottom to top? I guess there are baffles in the tank so you aren't pushing against more than 25litres?
Oh yeah. No problem filling at all. It is baffled yes 👍🏻👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland Nice, loving this build series there are some nifty tips and tricks. the goal zero make the whole set up simple and plug and play. Looking forward to the AUXbeam video that's a curious product, do you think you'll do a vid? Maybe your still assessing it?!
@@aclarke9479 spoiler alert. Should be next vid out
If you would not use the electric element in the colarifier but instead use the engine's cooling system to heat up the water in said calorifier would you then need the expansion vessel and a pressure relieve valve ?
I am sourcing my parts to build my own calorifier system. I have a 14 L ATAG indirectly heated boiler (it is heated (normally by central heating circuit in the home) by cooling system heat from my van's engine.
Since the temperatures of engine cooling circuits and central heating circuits in houses are of simular value that should be fine. The boiler has a mixer valve like your calorifier (in fact it looks like it is the same thing) and I have a 8bar pressure relieve valve on the shelf. I may have to get a expansion vessel still.
The main difference between your setup and mine is the main water pump. Where you use a electric one with build in accumulator, I instead use a foot operated (UK made) pump build into the kickspace of the kitchen cabinet.
Even if the engine was to overheat and send 90-100 degrees water to the internal coil of the boiler do you think the boiler will cause a problem bursting or cause hoses to blow off their fittings (I use hoses and stainless steel wire fasteners and hose barbs to connect things up from hose to copper (around the boiler is copper only, like your setup has)
Yes mate. Probably more so. The expansion vessel literally allows for expansion as water heats… it grows larger. The expansion vessel allows for this. When using the engine, the water will continue to get hotter. So it’s actually more appropriate 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland Thank you for your answer. Could I use a expansion tank from a vehicle ? These things have a cap which allows overpressure (varying from 1 to 1.5 bars) to escape the drinking water system.
I could mount the tank in such a way they will always have a bit of an air space in the tank. The airspace would act as the bladder which is in most systems and would allow for some expansion as the boiler heats up...
Again, there will be no pressure as such in the system when not in use. The whole drinking water system is operated by a footpump which can (maybe) produce 1/3 of a bar (10 feet of head.
The system is small and based on a 19L cold water tank sat inside the kitchen cabinet and a 14L copper boiler with an internal copper coil out of a ATAG central heating unit...
@@koningbolo4700 it all sounds sound yes. But i couldn’t say for sure. What I would say is…. Why chance it. The little red vessels are so inexpensive and discreet.
@@urbanarkoverland I found the Fiamma A20 pressure vessel... Normally designed to catch pump cycle pulses and prevent nervous switching of the onboard water pump. It has a bladder which can be set to a range of pressures to adjust the syste,... I presume these vessels can be used to catch pressure buildups caused by water expansion...
@@koningbolo4700 still probably not no. These are designed to almost create pressure. Not absorb it.
Tap into Your heater matrix to heat water while u drive
No thanks.
The calorifier you bought has a coil so that it can be heated by the engine cooling water. Did you consider this option or was that calorifer package just something that suited your plans?
The van doesn’t even have true shower. So felt it unnecessary to delve that deep if I’m honest.
@@urbanarkoverland Fair enough. Thanks for replying 👍
@@garyevans5335 no probs. In this van the hot water was a bonus for washing up. So just solely relied on electric. Also. Stays hot for 24 hours. So heat while ya driving and recharging. Then stays hit for at least a day 👍🏻
Hi, loving the videos, just curious why you haven’t used the engine coolant option and ran it through the coil. I have the same system and have it piped to the engine or use the element, depends on circumstances/location. I guess the goal zero is that good it is not an issue?
I’m truth mate. Like I said… hot water is an added luxury in this van. Not a necessity. For washing up and an outside shower. With little use. It’s not really a live in van like the black one. So was a lot of extra work for little gain. Similarly, I could heat water while driving via goal zero. And that would then be being recharged via b2b 👍🏻
Great video, we are wanting to run a similar set up! Quick question, do you need a hot water pump as well? or does the cold water pump supply a constant pressure to the hot water tank allowing you to withdraw enough water pressure for a shower etc.
Hi mate. Yes.
Don’t think if the pump as a cold pump. Treat it as pressurised water in.
You then feed all the cold outlets and one supply enters into the cylinder. It then becomes the hot. Which you then send to the outlets. So yes. One pump 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland great thanks!
I just watched your video testing the duration of hot water in the shower with the Truma combi, and I'm curious to know if the calorifier water heater system is more efficient and provides a longer hot water shower than the Truma combi.
10 litres of water is 10 litres of water mate. Neither reheat quick enough to think that you could use continuous. It’s all about how you use it. Hence the shower head 👍🏻
Is it mandatory to have the expansion tank?
Also what size is the fitting that goes onto the brass outlet of the tank? Looks like you put on a fitting that converted it to 12mm then added on your 90° fitting.
Yes. To allow for expansion. Otherwise the pipe will expand and probably blow.
1/2 inch - 12mm 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland Okay awesome I will get a expansion tank!
I have been doing a lot of research this morning and according to the diagram online it says that the barb or brass coming out of the coloifier is 15 mm. I hope it is 15 mm and not 12 mm lol because I just ordered about $70 worth of fittings! I have the 40L Coloifier.
Hello
You know your water heater calorifier system (which is brilliant nice one)
- did you put blanks into the engine heater in/out ports or does it not matter ?
- is there much heat lose around them ports ?
As thinking of doing similar in a caravan idea got ticking around my head, thanks Sam
No mate. Those two ports are literally a pipe that goes in and out. Don’t need to blank em. Don’t even need to think about them 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland thank you very much, seems a brilliant system. The boat industry has a lot of good stuff, good thinking going with that. ✊🏼
@@samhartfieldlewis5247 yeah they do. And the stuff is usually built to last. So many products overlap 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I'm looking at this and planning my own self build you say you have another van with a Truma if you were planning a long trip with a shower for a fam of 4 would you recommend the Truma diesel combi or this
Great question. I suppose it all boils down to how big your battery bank is. If you have ample battery. I would definitely go for this. 100 percent. But battery power is expensive. If you had an actual shower you could increase the cylinder to 20 litres and that would give you so much.
I find myself losing faith in the truma. With all the posts on social about error codes etc.
So to answer your question. If I was to start a build for me with a shower. I would go diesel heater. For heat. And electric immersion for water. Also….. lpg can be a pain to source.
I was going to go deisel heater and combi as lpg will be as you say hard to get my battery set up I've not got and I want to go hole hog tbh as I want induction hob and ninja pizza oven so if I need to add this to the list I might as well plan it if needed have you a link to this product so I can research some more
@@scoutdooradventures5470 are you here in uk.
Message me on insta 👍🏻
Hi. Did you have to fit an accumulator? Thanks
Yes I did in the bed 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland thanks
Can you add LPG as rather than electricity to heat the water
Um…… not sure how you would with this type of cylinder.
@@urbanarkoverlandany idea how much electricity it uses in AH per 10l off water
@@shabazhussain8101 rough calculation would be 50ah. 👍🏻
Just curious why did you go 240v over the 12v 6litre version? Maybe size?! The additional coil in the 10 litre I guess is just unused in this case and you will direct heat only?
As you can heat on the move with 240v and goal zero inverter combo it is a no brainer and you can have hot water on tap is you are on site via 240v. Great video as always!🎯
Yes mate. Size of the cylinder was important. I’ve also heard the 12v element takes aaaaaages to heat up as it isn’t as powerful. Ideally you would heat as you drive and then you get to where ya going with 100 percent battery bank and hot water 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland Loving that! 🎯
@@aclarke9479 ideal huh
Great video as always. Bit of a hypothetical question. Could this system be turned on and heating up on the move? Thinking about a similar system down the line but would be keen to have it on and hot for when I arrive somewhere or would you suggest only doing it once static?
Yes mate a very valid point. Something that I actually missed out. Of course yes. While driving. The power it costs you could be replenished by b2b 👍🏻
You can get 12v immersion heaters, then you won't need to have the inverter on
They take HOURS!!!
Calorifier and disel air heater or better to just do hydronic?
Maybe not in a Mwb van. 2kw heater more than enough. And is very efficient with space and moving parts etc.
@@urbanarkoverland you mean hydronic is not necessary for a 144?
@@Joe-nx7nj not saying that. Nothing say is ‘GOSPEL’. Just opinion mate.
But bye. If it was a live in van. Lwb that kind of thing. Then ye. Could be an option. But a 144 that’s used twice a month for holidaying. Prob unnecessary
@urbanarkoverland got it. Yeah. It's difficult to make a decision. I am looking at a isotemp water heater at the moment. I have a tire carrier water tank, which makes me wonder if now i have to worry about freezing water and if i need to put some kind of heating element in thr water tank.
@@Joe-nx7nj my tank is underneath and it’s never frozen. Ever. 🤷🏼♂️
How do you provide 240 elec without a 10000$ electric system? Or plug in? In nature or adventure settings there ain't no shore power.
@@tztz1949 Clayton lps 😀
Is it your hot water cylinder connected to your engine on your system?
No. But it can be on this
Where did you get the sender unit and gauge?
@@keithwilloughby1058 please use manners
Hi
Hey 👋
Great vid mate what pump u using seems much better pressure than mine
It’s a dometic mate 👍🏻
@@urbanarkoverland ahh got you mines a shurflo it works fine but pressure not the best
@@northeastcarpfishing think my first is shurflo and it’s alright 👍🏻
13:36
👍🏻
Sorry but galvanized metal is not suitable for exterior use. You need hot dipped zinc coating for exterior metal. that’s why they make those hot dipped sink bolts with the rough surface for. That thin galvanized coating does not prevent rust for very long
Hand rail……… galvanised
Great video 👍
👍🏻