Campervan Hot Water System using beer keg! - Van Build Series - Episode 28 - Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 12 ноя 2022
- Hot water calorifier system for camper van for under £100, using a stainless steel beer keg! This system will heat water using waste heat from the vans engine, so it's basically FREE Heating! What's a calorifier? how do they work? how can I make one? Watch to find out.
Next time I will be showing you how it’s installed and we will put it to the test! Thanks for watching :)
Related content - Van build series playlist: • TW - Van Build Series
Disclaimer: Carry out this project at your own risk. Unvented hot water systems can be dangerous. I accept no responsibility for damage or injury caused by following this video.
Shopping list:
Corny KEG different sizes available: brewkegtap.co.uk/collections/...
2L Expansion vessel & NRV: amzn.to/3UvJ4l8
Safety valve 3bar: amzn.to/3Us3kny
8mm copper pipe: amzn.to/3DUsjsG
Jubilee clips: amzn.to/3EpRo02
flaring kit: amzn.to/3TsPlfW
Temperature controller: amzn.to/3WRPblf
Valved compression tees: amzn.to/3Bh1pur
15mm copper olives: amzn.to/3h71Q3Q
1/2 engine coolant hose (Will need to be heated and stretched onto the pipes): ebay.us/D8yE0a
My amazon storefront: www.amazon.co.uk/shop/turners... 
Хобби
I have had all the gear for doing this and I have tried to get someone to come and do it for me to know avail so finally I decided to have a go and im halfway there, really pleased thank you for this vid, brilliant stuff
Nicely done. And I appreciate you putting together a video while building this - it doubles the time it takes to get things done, so thank you.
Thank you Peter 😊 It does take a lot of time to put the videos together but it’s all worth it reading the lovely comments from my community.
Thats a fantastic idea and had the same idea myself but not using the engine to provide the primary source. I will be using my solar dump once the batteries hit 90%.
I’ve got a commercial version of this system with a 150 gallon tank that works on the same principle however i have a safety thermostat that stops the engine water going into tank when it reaches temperature.
Also I have ballast and the copper tubing anchor down because with vibration and movement it will flex the copper specially when hot.
It’s nice to see you use the theory of utilising the rad water and I be interested to know how you get on and hopefully you’re system works.
Subscribe now & 👍
Keep up the good work
Clever idea....Never really knew about this concept....
Thanks mate, glad I could share something you haven’t come across before 👍🏼😊
What pipe did you connect to at the heater matrix, was it just the one pipe you looped into or both?
It’s connected to both, T piece in the flow and return. It would probably work going into one pipe also.
filling the copper tube with sand and taping the ends so it can't go anywhere is the best way to bend without flattening!
That’s a great idea, thanks for your comment 😊
No worries dude… I love the videos and your ideas… really interesting stuff mate, keep it coming ❤
This is how to sand bend alloy tube. Great video. Just ordered a keg😂
ingenious young fellow you are; on another note; in terms of chemistry exposure to V.O.C volatile organic compounds ; best you use sealed rock wool as insulater; polyurethane foam is to be avoided within inclosed areas especially considering heat will increase the cancer causing gaz off
Good to see these straight forward videos without trying to be a loud personality like many others out there. Just what i was looking for. Keep up the good work
Thank you for your lovely comment, really glad you like the videos 😊
I just new you would have something clever up your sleeve and you didn't fail me very clever idea 💡 👌👍👏👏👏
Thanks Darren! Really appreciate that 😊
Just when I thought you couldn't impress me anymore you did it again, looking forward to seeing it fitted and working👍
Thanks mate, that’s really kind of you 😊 working on the next video as we speak 👍🏼
Well done Turner your videos on this van build have been really cost-saving and interesting, now go and enjoy your adventures take care .
Thanks for following the build, glad you’ve enjoyed it and it’s given you some ideas. We certainly will, take care mate
Good job like what they use in ice cream van to warm the water to wash your hands . Top job 👊👊👊
Cheers Wayne, I’ve never seen one myself but have heard they have them. Would be interested to see what they look like and how they are made in comparison! Take care mate 👍🏼👊🏼👊🏼
They use a fibreglass box hole in top to put water in and two copper pipes in lid and a coil like you made. Then you connect it to to heater matrix pipe on a t junction in one side back out other back to return on heater matrix feed pipe
That’s interesting, thanks for sharing. I wondered if they installed them in series or parallel from factory but sounds like parallel using the t pieces.
Brilliant. Really clever idea and extremely well executed. 👍
Thank you 😊 really glad you like it
Love it 👍and will definitely be doing this to my van.
Pretty damn fantastic really........ takes drive , time and energy to workout what glues , sealants , sealers, connectors / connections etc etc to use . takes a lot of research in most cases when doing diy .. respect.. you are a do-er
Thank you! Glad you like the video 😊
Smart man, nice job, great product
Thank you 😊
Im using a system like this from 2 months now, in parallel with a diesel heater exhaust heat recovery sysstem and it could really became the new gen van/camper water heater
Cheers from Italy 🤙
Makes complete sense to use a calorifier and they are easy to adapt for different camping styles 👍🏼😁
Fantastic job!
Thank you 😊
Hi Just found your channel, great instructional/explaining how these systems work, ideal for a larger conversion. Interested now to see how its all connected. Thanks for taking the time to post this.
Welcome to the channel Bob, thanks for taking the time to watch my video. The beer kegs come in all different sizes so it can be made to fit the space available and hot water requirement. The next video will be up this Sunday at 5pm so it should all become clear. Thanks again 😊
Great video ollie ..thanks for sharing ..all the best guys..rich
Thanks Rich, no problem all! Thanks for watching 😊
The bananas on the diagram cracked me up
Great vid
😆 thanks mate, good ole banana engines
Utterley brilliant! I am just starting my camper build fitting my deiesel heater and power system. Working out the hot water I was going fot the bobilvan but this looks better coz in the summer i wont be running the heater!
Thank you, glad you like the idea 😊
As always great brilliant aidea top
Thanks Trevor! Really appreciate it 👍🏼😊
Just got a 23l keg off a eBay for £1.26. Plus £5 postage. Going to order the rest of the kit today.
Bargain! Nice one
I burst out laughing when i noticed the banana on the diagram 😂😂😂
Only the elite will understand 😆
great video mate
Cheers mate 😊👍🏼
That's cool, why don't you put a mixer at source to keep most of the mixing at source?, this way you waste less heat in the pipwork outside of the pressure vessel.
Very impressive. I might just clone your design into my van. Ill use a TMV though !
Thank you :) a tmv is a good idea 👍🏼
An alternative is to fill the keg with sand after you install the copper coil and install 12v ceramic PTC heaters inside the sand or on the outside of the keg (your choice) and heat the sand via 12v solar system. After the sand is hot, you'll heat the water when you pump it through the keg using your standard 12v RV water pump. No need to run the engine on your vehicle to heat up water for short term use. With the sand and ptc heaters, you can heat the water to safe showering temps using very little electricity and the sand will hold the temp for a while long after you've turned off the power to the heaters. Also, you won't have to drill holes in the cylinder or pressurize it. You can run the wires for the heaters right through the removable cap if you like or if you're putting the heaters outside around the cylinder, you don't have to worry about that at all.
_FASCINATING_ alternative I'd like to explore that idea further. Is the dry sand lighter than a keg full of water at 1 kilo/litre.?
🎉 yeah" yeah" 😂sending blessings Simpson😮😂😮😊😮😊🎉
Impressive - very impressed
Thanks mate, really appreciate that coming from you 👊🏼
@@TurnersWorkshop97 I never thought of doing it like that as such - in a old British telecoms van I had years ago, a very similar design as yours are standard in commercial vans with the health and safety etc etc. Just didn’t click when trying to design something potentially to be ran of off a log burner and was maybe going to combine underfloor heating into it myself, never did in the end, maybe next time but I’m still not sure it’s possible to do with a log burner (copper coil wrapper around chimney & then sleeved) without the system bursting 🤔
👌🏼💭🙌🏼
I also wasn’t keen on a chimney, more holes & to smaller van too tbh. Although you could winter in it or even hit the alps for a few weeks
Bobil vans do make an underfloor heating kit now that runs off a heat exchanger. I like the idea of using a log burner! Ideas for the next one 👍🏼
What a great concept and build, never thought of a beer keg for a tank, so compatible with that copper pipe too. Just a thought on the one way check valve, the spring inside is quite strong for a non-mains water system, so I hope your pump is strong enough to overcome it. I made a solar heater for our allotment and used one in the system and a whale pump couldn't open it! They actually work without the spring anyway as I later found out...
Thank you! That’s a good point, the pump is rated for 1.5bar so should be strong enough to open the check valve. Its good to know they work without the spring though 👍🏼
I prefer gravity fed unpressurised system, zero risk of explosion.
R2-d2 we'll done master..always enjoy your vids take care my friend.
😂 thanks Gary, glad to hear from you mate. Hope you’re doing well 👍🏼
@@TurnersWorkshop97 I'm ok bit stressed over my scooter front breaks new pads just not biting bled them still not biting
What sort of scooter is it mate? I will have a look into it for you, see if I can find anything.
@@TurnersWorkshop97 it's a Peugeot metropolis 400.trike put new pads in clean the pins new oil reservoir it's just not gripping was told to bleed foot break to but nothing grr lol
Have you bled from the calliper? If you changed the reservoir it may have air in the lines. Does the pedal feel spongy?
I’m thinking about doing this but with my 04 ml500 resonator , I’ll have a resonator delete & hot water tank all keeping it looking factory
Lovely Job...Vertical Cauliflowers work Better...with the Horizontal Calorifiers there is Poor thermal Stratification for the Water....so you may get some Variation in the output Temperature...😁
Thank you Peter, the great thing about making it yourself is that it can be adapted to fit the space you have. Horizontal or vertical, obviously the pipework would need adjusting. I will have to do a few tests on it but could always fit a destrat pump if needs be 😊 thanks for your comment
Thanks sharing, what is the cylinder sourse ?
Nicely built. Do you feel the necessity of securing the copper tubes inside the cylinder?
Thank you, I am going to make an adaption soon using a heat exchanger instead. That way I won’t have to worry about the pipework flexing/ splitting inside. Also it will allow better temperature control. Just waiting for the heat exchanger to be on offer, I missed out recently so waiting for it to go back down. 😂
Hi , How long did you leave it in the freezer
Super nice idea! I want to do it too on my van but with a little difference.. to keep the cooling system of the van separated from the calorifier's circuit i was thinking to put an heat exchanger with 2 ins and 2 outs, but in this case you need another water pump to push the liquid through the calorifier. The advantage would be in case the calorifier fails the coolant in the van circuit is isolated from the calorifier so no risk to ruin the engine.. what do you think?
Hey thanks, yes I had thought about using a small plate heat exchanger too. I think this would be a good option and like you say use a secondary circulation pump and then there isn’t a risk of poisoning 👍🏼😊
@@TurnersWorkshop97 Do you think a pump like shurflo or seaflo can do the job? I'm worried for the liquid temperature to "burn" the pump
@@jaym3651 I would look for a 12v hot water circulation pump or if you have an inverter you could possibly use a domestic hot water circulation pump. The pumps you mention are more suitable for increasing the pressure rather than continuously running 😊
@@TurnersWorkshop97 Thank you very much!
You could go a lot bigger coil diameter and just tread it in the top hole. Don't know how much difference it would make or if even needed? How has it worked and what temps can you bring the water up to, and how long does it take to bring up to temp?
The problem would be using the existing 8mm holes in the keg, so had to use 8mm pipe. I made some more videos testing it out if you’re interested 😊
Copper, brass and stainless Did you experience any galvanic corrosion?
Did you get any leaks on the rear door pillars flowing out onto the floor in the corners ?
I did have a leak there a while ago and was coming in from the vents. Sealed them up and all ok now
okay one question how does it heat up, i understand nothing of this
What do you do when you are at a camping site for several days? Start the engine to have jot water?
You could do or there are a few other options like using electric or a separate heat exchanger. I will look at the different options in an upcoming video.
If I would wrap a coil around the outside of one of these beer kegs covering just about the entire metal part of it would that work you think ? I would rather use 15mm copper pipe to get less restriction in the coolant feed. My thinking is the coil wrapped around the outside is hardly prone to damage due to the camper bouncing around. The coil is nicely supported and most likely will not leak poisonous coolant into the drinking water system.
Sounds like it would work but it’ll cost a lot more to make and you will only get the heat transfer where the copper touches the stainless. Where as with a coil directly in the water you have a much larger surface area to heat the water. Unless you are drinking the hot water and the coil is split or damaged then it is unlikely to poison you. We will be using the hot water for showers and washing up. The cold water is drawn straight from the cold water tank, not from the calorifier, but I understand your concern. In the event that the mixer tap failed and the coil leaked into the secondary side, that is a possibility. A small plate heat exchanger and pump set up is another option and possibly less likely to leak 👍🏼 I’m thinking that it’s probably best to have a separate drinking water tank anyway if you have the space as you can never really trust where you get the water from.
@@TurnersWorkshop97 I will try it on the outside, soldering the pipe coil to the exterior maximising heat transfer. Mind you the lot will be insulated as well so eventually the heat in the coil will enter the tank though slower then the internal coil.
My boiler has an internal coil which is old and I do not trust it and it makes noise when I shake the thing. She rings like a bell and though she is still leak free I can not trust her to stay that way for years to come bouncing around in the rear of the van...
Also I like to avoid opening the tank (cutting an access hatch and soldering it shut again) to strengthen the coil and how it is mounted inside...So I will cap off the coolant lines to the internal coil and wrap the lower part of the boiler with copper pipe (about 25-30 feet of it should suffice)
I wonder about your setup. The 8mm copper pipe you used for the coolant supply is that enough ? As I remember most heater core hoses are about 20mm ID...does the restriction pose an issue in terms of heating time ?
I wrap small copper tubbing around my heater lines by the motor and plumb the windshield washer fluid through it for the wintertime. This is the same thing on a small scale. I wonder how it would work on a larger scale for the camper?
What did the insurance company say about a homemade pressurised system instead of manufactured?
WELL DONE! any updates on its performance?
Thank you! Have you seen the other parts of this mini series. It decided to leak coolant in the back of the van 😅
@@TurnersWorkshop97 i have now, yes! incredible stuff and such impressive diy engineering. I aim to use some of your ideas on my own van, a 4wd delica d5.
keep up the great work x
Any idea how much copper piping you used. Thanks!
Think it was about 5m roughly 👍
Hey mate 👍 great idea im looking at doing this myself .. only question i have is does it not restrict the coolent flow around the engine due to the reduced pipe size in the calorifier? Cheers 🤟
Hey man, thanks for the comment. I don’t think it will make a difference to the flow around the engine as the T piece will just divide the flow between the heater matrix and calorifier 👍
Awesome 👌 that was my only concern from doing it myself .. thanks forthe reply 👍 appreciated 🙏
How many meters of 8mm copper pipe did you use to make the coil?
It was the leftover from my gas run to the hob so would say around 5meters
Unbelievable
Nice work, but I wonder if you could clarify something for me?
You made mention many times about "primary coil", "secondary coil", and "primary side" and "secondary side".
While that sounds professional and complex, there was only one coil with an inlet and outlet, so (1) where's the secondary coil? And (2) what do you mean about primary and secondary sides?
Thanks, apologies let me try and explain it better. The primary side being the primary heating from the engine circulating coolant through the primary coil within the beer keg. Secondary side is separate and that’s what comes out the taps. The secondary side is topped up by the pump as the pressure drops when you open the taps. The primary side is a sealed system separate from the secondary side. You never want the two mixing as you will have engine coolant contaminating the secondary water which comes out the hot taps and shower.
Gotcha 👍 Thanks mate @@TurnersWorkshop97
What about the chemical reaction with the engine coolant & the copper, the stainless steel & copper
That’s definitely something to think about, thanks for your comment
This is called galvanic corrosion fyi. Can be stopped by using an electrical insulator between where the copper and stainless touch. Using a zinc anode might work too.
So. As hot water is being used. It is replenished automatically from the cold water tank?
That’s right, it will automatically top up 👍🏼
@@TurnersWorkshop97 nicee!
Any thoughts for hot water without starting the engine?
If you have a diesel heater or any kind of hot exhaust gas you could recover heat form that with an heat exchanger
Hi Mark, I will definitely be covering this in an upcoming video once I have it up and running
What is the total cost of building this system plus fittings etc?
Hi, it was under £100 but already had some of the fittings, insulation and copper pipe. The main cost is the beer keg 😊
Great video! I've been thinking about doing this myself but I was looking at the big silver kegs. Where did you get this one from? It looks ideal!
Just a word of warning. You might want to rethink the rubber pipe over the copper with jubilee clip. That's how I did my cold water feed and I came back to a flooded van one day in Portugal in 38 degree heat. The hose had popped off the copper even though it had a very tight hose clamp over it.
Cheers mate, it’s a Cornelius keg, I’ve put a link to where I got mine but a few places do them. You can get all different sizes 👍🏼 that’s strange with the hoses coming off! I will have to keep an eye on them until I think of something better.
If you flare the copper lines, a small bit, that the hoses go on it will not slide off from pressure or heat expansion. @@TurnersWorkshop97
Is 19L enough for you ?
I'd like to know this too. We have a 120L tank in our flat, but wonder how much smaller we could get away with
@@wevwev8829 you can lower the temp almost all the way down to reduce heat dissipation and over consumption due to heating a larger quantity of water then needed. Don't buy a smaller one, just reduce the thermostat (little potentiometer) inside the electrical plastic box underneath the tank.
Why choosing copper over stainless still?
There’s a few reasons I can think of. It’s easier to work with than stainless, it’s a better conductor of heat and had some leftover from doing the gas work.
How well did this work ?
Hi David, I made some update videos if you’re interested :)
I am indeed, ill take a look this evening
t concerns me the amount of compression fittings used here. too many points for potential leaks and you should have pressures checked all those fittings before finishing with insulation. The joints need to be silver soldered to be a more reliable system
I agree, soldered joints will be better 👍🏼 as a prototype it works well to use compression fittings and so far no leaks.
Ha much to make me one
Sorry mate I can’t make them to sell as don’t have the time but anybody can make by following this video.