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Campervan Water Heater Testing, FAIL & FIX - Van Build Series - Episode 28 - Part 3
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- Опубликовано: 8 дек 2022
- I apologise that this video has taken a while to release but unfortunately I encountered a problem on my test run, watch to find out what happened. I hope this video gives you a better idea of what can be achieved by building your own calorifier system, what works and what doesn't. Feel free to leave suggestions and comments below and thanks for watching.
Related content - Van build series playlist: • TW - Van Build Series
Disclaimer: Carry out this project at your own risk. Unvented hot water systems can be dangerous. I accept no responsibility for damage or injury caused by following this video.
Shopping list:
Corny KEG different sizes available: brewkegtap.co.....
2L Expansion vessel & NRV: amzn.to/3UvJ4l8
Safety valve 3bar: amzn.to/3Us3kny
8mm copper pipe: amzn.to/3DUsjsG
Jubilee clips: amzn.to/3EpRo02
flaring kit: amzn.to/3TsPlfW
Temperature controller: amzn.to/3WRPblf
Valved compression tees: amzn.to/3Bh1pur
15mm copper olives: amzn.to/3h71Q3Q
1/2 engine coolant hose (Will need to be heated and stretched onto the pipes): ebay.us/D8yE0a
My amazon storefront: www.amazon.co....
Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
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License code: 4ACBBWWJMUKDAO7U
Wow! Blown away by your knowledge, patience, and preserverance 😳 what an amazing achievement, well done 🏅
I might have missed it, but you may want to add a valve to remove the water heating creation from the van. Temporary hot water isn't going to be good if you destroy you vans engine because of a leak.😂😂😂😂
As thought you’ll have trouble with safety when the temperature gets high my 150 gallon commercial tank has a thermostat that stops rad water going into tank when tank water is hot hot 🥵
What people mistake is the water temperature from rad is not the same as tank temperature
If rad water keeps going into the tank through your heat exchanger it will become dangerous high temperature and pressure. You’ve used safety for pressure but you really need one for tank temperature.
The pipes I use are thick rubber radiator hoses dunno the rating but used on trucks.
Interesting stuff specifically the temperature records
Please look at some safety measures because that little tank could be a steam tank that might just pop without some thermal protection
With the water circuit left open after stopping the engine, the system starts working in reverse by thermo-syphon effect, and will heat the cold engine block using your stored heat. A pair of 12v solenoid taps wired to the ignition will stop this by isolating the system when the engine is off .
This is a very good point thank you for sharing, I had never thought about thermo-syphoning from the tank. Will have to manual isolate for now 👍🏼
Really enjoyed the development of your hot water system.
Thank you 😊
Brilliant video, cheeky bit of maths thrown in too
Thanks mate, Haha 🤓
Congratulations young man always a pleasure
Thank you my friend, have you got your brakes sorted yet? 😊
@@TurnersWorkshop97 no pal it's got lots of plastic to take of to a 3rd bleed nipple I don't no how they come of my son has a go on something and all plastic tabs keep breaking of so that means new parts so not keen on taking big front panel of that will cost a bomb to replace just can't find anything to tell me where all clips are
I know exactly what you mean! Plastic clips are a nightmare always breaking
You’ve done an amazing job mate! I’ve been thinking of building something similar, you saved me a lot of research, especially to the tank as I was thinking of using an 11kg propane tank (26l). Also thank you so much for showing all failures, basically giving me a complete solution.
Thank you, it did take a lot of thinking about but was a fun project. Glad this will help you make yours. Stainless or copper cylinder for potable water 😊
@@TurnersWorkshop97 £57 for pressurised tank able to withstand high temperature is a great deal I was looking for for a long time. I'll be doing much more testing/experimenting. I live full time in a van here in UK. If I still get excess heat during winter I'll thing about extending that system into home style radiator to heat up the living space :)
@@TurnersWorkshop97 I'm finally building it now. I used the proper radiator hoses, 16mm ID all the way from the engine bay to the garage. Question- does the expansion tank heat up significantly? I'm thinking of placing it further away from the tank and not isolate it unless it really is necessary. Thanks in advance :)
@PatrykRElektronika Nice! Let us know how it goes. The expansion tank can be mounted anywhere as long as it’s connected to the storage vessel as shown in the video :)
@@TurnersWorkshop97 Will do :) I'm pretty sure now that I will also isolate the main radiator and fit another radiator at the back of the van. Either a standard household one or an automotive one with a decent fan, to heat up the van while driving and not the air. As for expansion tank- I know I can fit it anywhere but wanted to know if I'll lose a significant amount of heat if fitting further away and not isolating. I doubt, but you're smart and you decided to isolate it too, so you must have thought about it..
Excellent only trouble is my LWB Transporter is shorter than a Transit LWB. So my space is at a premium! I was going to go for a Jumbo Transit but as you say they struggle with hills - the VW engines just EAT hills I have the 2.5. But your system has made me think of using the engine to heat a HOUSE radiator inside the van? But that migh overcool the engine in winter? But in summer it will aid cooling - not sure what do folks think?
Thanks 😊 I like the idea but for the price and efficiency of a Chinese diesel heater I feel it may be the best option for space heating.
The stuff I'm learning! Thank you
No problem! thanks for watching 😊
Great snagging/trouble shooting skills ollie as always...thanks for sharing..all the best to you and yours over the holidays.. rich
Thank you Rich, happy Christmas and new year to you too, take care mate🎄🎅
Excellent, well done.
Thanks mate 😁
Great advert for those posh isolation valves, you should contact the company. Get a sponsor.
Really good idea great skills and knowledge.
Just an idea to suggest a way of regulating the temperature, you're using an LCD temp monitor which I believe has PID capabilities.
Could you use that to activate a control valve so when the tank gets to the desired temp it closes and then opens again if it drops
Thank you! I will be adding to it soon when I get a chance. Putting some temperature control like you say but pump instead of a control valve 👍🏼
Be easier to just heat a kettle...in reality you don't need that much hot water for van life...and as soon as fresh cold tops up the hot water cylinder it will soon be ambient temperature water in the cylinder. Defeating the object...I'd buy a hose lock portable shower and put the hot water into that for a shower. You shouldn't have 80c water coming out of taps as you've already mentioned...damn good effort though.....subbed and liked
Thanks for the sub mate, appreciate your feedback. The way I see it is that it costs too much ££ to keep using gas for boiling water especially these days with the price of gas. This way you have a nice tank of hot water for showers/ washing up after every drive. If you want a cuppa, it will use much less gas to get the water to boiling point. I will be adding a 12v heating element to the tank also so that the water is heated by excess solar in the summer months. I think 80c water out the taps is excessive so I’ve ordered a mixer valve for the calorifier so that it’s blended before it reaches the taps 👍🏼
Excellent work. Thumbs up from me 👍👍
Thank you 😁👍🏼
Buddy, you're on to something potentially disruptive here! Maybe you should start a company of your own, building and installing these systems for van-lifers. I mean free hot water is pretty rad, but it is of secondary priority for van-lifers. The #1 priority is air-heating. So if you can figure out a way to transform engine heat (after 20-40 minute daily drive) into daily air heat (through some kind of CPU-like heat-exchange fan like Bobil, and underfloor heating pipes), have all 3 systems run concurrently or in isolation, be monitorable and easily self-regulating (e.g. automatically switching off once ambient air reaches 24C, and switching back on once it drops below 18), and bring it to market at reasonable price point (and SAFELY), then you'll have a solid product.
I'm sure a lot more testing and number crunching is needed; and maybe a way to store hot glycol or store energy/heat for when the engine is not running.
Have it installed at discount for some VanLife influencers, and that's all they'll talk about - marketing sorted.
Thanks mate, I like the idea but it’s already been done one way or another. They already make the calorifiers for the marine industry and like you said bobil vans make the heat exchangers from the diesel heaters. You really can’t beat a diesel heater for price range and performance, they’re brilliant 😁
@@TurnersWorkshop97 Thanks for the reply! I was thinking while writing that comment. Since then I did a bit more thinking, researching and calculating, and actually, no - there isn't something like this readily available on the market.
The problem that I ran into is the "storage" of heat. While the vehicle is driving, it will heat the air pretty quickly, but what afterwards? So I'm thinking, why not use a 30L hot water tank itself as "heat storage" that can slowly release its energy throughout the day and heat 8-11cu.m of space. Unless my math is completely wrong, heat capacity of 1cu.m of air is 1.2 kJ/m3/°C. Heat capacity of water is 4.2 kJ/L/°C. With good enough insulated van, and a 30L tank full of 80°C water, you can keep slowly releasing that energy and keeping room temperature at 23°C all day. (80-23)*30L*4.2kJ=7,200kJ=2kWh
Diesel heater or Propex, thus, become only a secondary (backup) heat source.
Sure, them Chinese diesel heaters are cheap, but red diesel is difficult to find; and even at £0.80/L the monthly costs do add up.
Do you think it could be over ridden with a 12/24v immersion element on a thermostat? Given enough Calculated amp hours from the energy storage. I forget do you have solar turner? Potentially a separate photovoltaic module and separate maximum power point tracker (mppt) to charge power into the given circuit & or a changer over switch (or double element) to heat the water from the existing electrical system & or on a not so sunny day 🤷🏽♂️
Definitely mate, I’ve got a 12v element ready to go in and will be looking at incorporating it into the solar set up. I have a single 100w panel at the moment but will be adding another 200w panel at some point 👍🏼
Curious why you didn’t consider just using the same “heater” hose used in every engine bay ? 😂
Trial and error 😂 found something in the end. It’s surprisingly very expensive for the heater hoses!
Aargh @ 5:45 like you was pulling a tampon out of a female elephant 😬😬😬😬🤓🤓🤓
Can’t say I would know what that’s like… 😂
Do you have a video on how you tapped into the coolant system?
I did record it, used a couple of isolation tees. Think it’s in part 2
does this system work with the ecoboost motor?
I don’t see why it wouldn’t mate, it’s just putting a T piece in the heater matrix so the load is split between the heater matrix and calorifier, the majority of flow will still go through the matrix but enough should circulate through the calorifier to heat the water too.
Very good indeed
Thanks mate 😊