I am finishing a Trident from a Formbot kit now. The kit was a really good starting point, but I had to do some upgrades to it. The only problem with the kit itself was that they sent the frame with the wrong size, but as soon as I contacted them, got the correct one sent with no extra costs. The things I ended up changing were the linear rails, after about 30h of printing, the rails became really noisy and the prints started having artifacts, I was super lucky. I managed to buy a set of hiwin rails from someone who gave up the Voron project for a nice price. I also replaced the fans by noctuas, a big difference in the noise level. I built it with the magnetic panels mod, it makes it so much easier to take the panels out for maintenance or printing pla. I didn’t bother with filters, I printed an adapter from the exhaust fan to a 40mm flexible tube that I put out of the window when printing abs. Absolutely no smells. Now I am looking on a way to improve the way the teflon tube and the can cable connect to the stealthburner, I think the steel wire you got is for that. Not to sag or rub against the top panel. In the future I am thinking about building the enraged rabbit carrot feeder, and change the CW2 extruded by a Galileo 2. Don’t forget to buy some loktite (the weak one is enough), my tap disassembled itself without it, now is super reliable, and a good jig to build the frame as square as possible, don’t ask why I say this… Another important thing is to get some backing to the rails, steel and aluminum dilate at different rates in a closed environment, and tend to bend the frame slightly, I used the old rails without the carriage on the opposite side of the extrusion with good results, but there are some lighter solutions for sale. This is a really fun project, I am looking forward to see your videos 😊
Thanks for all the great info. I pinned your post. Great call on the wire. I think you are right. I got an ERCF kit that I will install at some point. I got it on sale and have been sitting on it.
Looking forward to following your build! I just built an LDO Voron 2.4r2 Rev C 350mm. Probably not the best option for a first 3D printer. I am following your Orca Slicer videos and working through the calibration. Thank you for the great video series!
Definitely not for beginners. I started the series and then realized that there are over250 pages in the assembly manual. I will be atit for a while. It is fun though.
I am finishing a Trident from a Formbot kit now. The kit was a really good starting point, but I had to do some upgrades to it. The only problem with the kit itself was that they sent the frame with the wrong size, but as soon as I contacted them, got the correct one sent with no extra costs. The things I ended up changing were the linear rails, after about 30h of printing, the rails became really noisy and the prints started having artifacts, I was super lucky. I managed to buy a set of hiwin rails from someone who gave up the Voron project for a nice price. I also replaced the fans by noctuas, a big difference in the noise level. I built it with the magnetic panels mod, it makes it so much easier to take the panels out for maintenance or printing pla. I didn’t bother with filters, I printed an adapter from the exhaust fan to a 40mm flexible tube that I put out of the window when printing abs. Absolutely no smells. Now I am looking on a way to improve the way the teflon tube and the can cable connect to the stealthburner, I think the steel wire you got is for that. Not to sag or rub against the top panel. In the future I am thinking about building the enraged rabbit carrot feeder, and change the CW2 extruded by a Galileo 2. Don’t forget to buy some loktite (the weak one is enough), my tap disassembled itself without it, now is super reliable, and a good jig to build the frame as square as possible, don’t ask why I say this… Another important thing is to get some backing to the rails, steel and aluminum dilate at different rates in a closed environment, and tend to bend the frame slightly, I used the old rails without the carriage on the opposite side of the extrusion with good results, but there are some lighter solutions for sale. This is a really fun project, I am looking forward to see your videos 😊
Thanks for all the great info. I pinned your post. Great call on the wire. I think you are right.
I got an ERCF kit that I will install at some point. I got it on sale and have been sitting on it.
Hey, @minimal3dp - Thanks for the video. I look forward to the rest of the series. The piano wire is meant to support the CAN cable.
Thanks. I appreciate the explanation.
Looking forward to following your build! I just built an LDO Voron 2.4r2 Rev C 350mm. Probably not the best option for a first 3D printer. I am following your Orca Slicer videos and working through the calibration. Thank you for the great video series!
Definitely not for beginners. I started the series and then realized that there are over250 pages in the assembly manual. I will be atit for a while. It is fun though.
I am building the same kit . opend the box today and built the frame and installd the Z motors . looking foward to your build
So far I really like the kit. Hopefully it is smooth sailing for both of us.
@@minimal3dp I am up to page 118 . Loving the kit so far . I just finished GE5C by hartk1213 . Z belts next good time to call it a night .
Great video, you make me want to order the voron kit... :P I'm going to finish my current project on my mercury one but after voron!!!
I completed my Mercury One and then decided to go for the Voron. I just need something that is large and enclosed.
great video
Thanks