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Thank you so much, its working on my Ender 3 S1 Plus and Sonic Pad!!! I was about to root my Sonic Pad especially for KAMP adaptive meshing in klipper, but this is working great. Thank you for this valueble video, great stuff, keep them coming, a big thumbs up!!!👍👍👍

Why Im getting diffeent number once is over 4000 and after 2 rounds Im doing again and then around 2100

How do you change the max missed value for sensorless?

Thank you for this, Got my 2 aquilas on inovato quadra setup after several failed attempts. cheers

im having trouble with the private.zip it keeps blocking the download saying its a harmful file

TFT35 E3 V3.0.1 work?

Thanks for the video... I have a Geeetech A30m which has a 320x320 build plate... How hard would it be to use that build plate in a 350 Voron 2.4 build?

if you are stuck on creality logo, just update screen then update printer, this worked for me

DOESNT HELP UNDERSTANDING AN APP THAT DOESNT EVEN UNDERSTAND ITSELF,WHY ARE THEY MAKING UPDATES FOR AN APP THAT DOES NOT SLICE OR HAS NOT BEEN ABLE TO SLICE IN 3 YEARS,WHY AM I USING ALLMOST ALL OTHER SLICERS WITHOUT HASTLE BUT CURA SIMPLY CAN NOT SLICE TO SAVE ITS OWN ASS

CURA THE MOST PROBLEMATIC APP I EVER DEALT WITH TBH I DONT SEE WHY THEIR MAKING UPDATES FOR A SLICER THAT HAS NOT BEEN ABLE TO SLICE ANYTHING ON ITS OWN IN ABOUT 3 YEARS

nice video, but when I try to do the same using my Bambu Labs X1C Carbon i get all sorts of problems where I am asked to click on all the AMS reels I want to include in the test. However, when I try to select just the one reel it will not let me and the send to printer button is greyed out in Orca Slicer!! Any thoughts on the cause of this issue?? Cheers

What is the Article Number, and what is it used for? I've got Elegoo Rapid PLA+ and am not sure what this is or how to find it for me filament.

What can be wrong? Adjusting Flow in Orca slicer doesn't change anything in my prints. Is there any please in Klipper that regulates flow?

My fifth time watching this and the previous video on installing Klipper. I'm starting to think Klipper is just a myth and not real. "No Directory Found" and "ls /dev/serial/by-id/*" makes me this the Amish might be on to something.

ls /dev/serial/by-id/*' still showing No such file or directory. I have been trying to get this to work since 11am it's now almost 8pm and still can't get this to work. I've followed your videos and advice and nothing. I've redone everything from the ground up several time and always have this error. No one knows why it doesn't work.

how do you create that object?

Great have you done video about cofigurations already? Cant find it and I am stuck ;/

Thanks for sharing.

My old Tevo Tornado (now with klipper) is making me crazy for getting a Orca profile. Will follow your guide for sure!

Another "Here's what I" do with very little explanation as to why.

If you are working with several different objects on the table, it is better to use a PrusaSlicer.

Thank you for the tutorial. BTW, classic mode is under Quality>wall generator>wall generator. they weren't talking about the one you showed in the video.

I think your video covers exactly what I need, but you're not explaining certain things, such as where are the files that you're working in? Because it seems you skipped a few steps and because you're using short-cut keys instead of using the mouse pointer so we can see where you're clicking, it's very hard to follow. Another issue I have with tutorials like this is that everyone assumes we know VS Code. It's easy to understand VS Code as as editor, but to use it to compile, it's never as straight forward as people doing these tutorials make it seem.

What is it for „add support enforcer”?

waiting for AB motors tensioning video

Is it even possible to set stuff like flowrate per object? Or just "process" settings?

I hadn't updated the MCU location in my printer.cfg. That, and having a hard time flashing my board thru the RasPi SSH led me to use the OctoPrint plugin Firmware Updater with the downloaded .hex file compiled on the Pi. Thanks for this video! Helped me realize what I was doing wrong.

Question: does your spreadsheet accommodate other firmware types, like Marlin and stuff?

But what if we select "Precise wall" in the settings of OrcaSlicer? Won't that fix the problem with walls overlapping and give us a more accurate reading when printing the cube with 2 walls?

Can I provide you with some constructive criticism? I highly highly highly suggest you find a way to improve the visual quality of your video(s). I've only watched this video. I don't know about the rest. I have it set to the highest quality (1080p), but the picture quality is very fuzzy and looks like a video from 90's. I think it's especially important with 3D printing videos, so we can see important details. I don't know if it's your camera equipment or settings or what... The audio quality as well seems quite low. Thanks!

you attempted to set the top surface speed to 50,000 but you actually entered and saved 5,000... you did still increase that value from 3,000 but said 50,000 but you just missed a 0. keep these great videos coming.

Funfact i had exactly the same values as you. If you run AUTO_SPEED_VALIDATE Accel=78350 Velocity=1339 you can see that this is beyond what the printer can really handle. i think you need to add a real range in the printer.cfg

You choose the worst model to try and test speeds and acceleration. Your not going to get anywhere near those speeds on that tiny cube. That's why the time difference was so small between the 2... Also, those maximums your setting will far exceed what your hotend can even produce which again, is preventing you from reaching that kinda speed during printing.

Didn'y you do it wrong though? You have to do each test with pressure advance turned off??

@minimal3dp so the screen gets stuck on the creality screen but whenever i hit the knob it starts moving around

What print times?

Interesting, but useless for delta printers because it does nothing for Z motion.

I am curious if you adjusted your material flow rate as well? When you sliced your model did you preview the speeds to see what was theoretically reached during printing? I seem to hit my limit on my flow rate for my creality k1 way before I reach the speeds I could reach.

Yes, I am interested in the comparison between the auto speed and Elias' method. I just finished updating my limits using Elias' method and was concerned that it was going to damage something. Best way to explain it is that it is very violent. I am on a tuned and modified Ender 3 S1 Pro. Good video as always.

probably won't make much diff but you only put 5000 on your top layer. What I'm more interested in is, if you're able to delve further into IS topic. Specifically troubleshooting Y more than X as that could be caused by cables, PTFE, mechanical, frames, I realised that this can be a bottomless pit topic, but again I haven't found any youtuber have taken this topic to the T.

Rather than doing, how about explaining g why your doing? This video is all tell with no show.

I know the video is kinda cold at the moment, but I got the upgrade for my sprite extruder. I am wondering, are there any replacement nozzles for the ceramic hot end?

Hello thank you for this video. And after finding that what you change at the slice example orca slicer?

I like your videos! Just want to note that your mic quality goes all over the place, louder, quieter, cut outs and sometimes it sound compressed 😐

You should do a deep dive into the Klipper Auto Speed script next! ~ Its functionality exceeds Andrew Ellis' macro. That being said, it still includes Ellis' as an optional, secondary validation 👍🏻

Mike thank you for the tutorial video. I'm looking forward to your next video. I recently purchased two hermit crab 2 systems. One can bus one non-can bus and I am getting ready to install them. I also picked up The b i q u h2s Revo and the Swiss micro NG Revo. I plan to slowly convert my most commonly used printers to the Revo nozzle system. I am also considering using it as a base for a tool changing system like the prusa XL's on my SV08. I have been planning this for a while and waited until the recent Amazon sale to pick up all The new toys listed above. I was considering using the Hermit Crab 2 on my SV08. The problem is it's such a workhorse I don't want it to be down for a significant amount of time. I have had it for less than a month and have close to 300 print hours on it with multiple 24 plus hour prints. My only failures have been early learning curve and with 24 plus hour prints those are so painful you make sure they never happen again. I will most likely install the hermit crabs on my NV4 Max and my SV07 Plus first. Like you I plan to video and try to make tutorials out of my upgrdes. Unfortunately I have tried to do this many times in the past and end up with footage that I'm not really happy with.

Great video. I'm delving deeper into these types of settings to help minimise stringing for a larger nozzle and PTFE filament.

I'm wondering what the difference is between this and using input shaper. Are they used together, is this used instead of input shaper?

I've been trying to print it with Orca Slicer and I get ridges after the initial layers near the curves. I believe this is due to overlap of the internal layers

HI Mike, Is it better to have multiple probes during each probed point? My KE only probes once and moves to the next point. I assume probing twice for each point is for increased accuracy? Thanks