amazing how different mine and yours is my starter solenoid is under the starter motor, I bought the same internal wiring harness as you have but directions says White wire is not hooked up when a diagram shows the white wire (F) hooked up, it looks like you have your white wire hooked up, so from the bottom up you have white, red, then brown i assume? also my mercury switch is above the switch box assembly black to frame brown to brown on switch box. Yeah you know the aluminum bracket they give you for the internal wiring harness? I had to Shave quite a bit off mine on the left side just so i could get it to fit and i also had to take off a bulging diaphragm housing held with three bolts then install the bracket to hold the internal wiring harness, then install back the diaphragm housing back on with no room to tighten up the lower right bolt completely tight. so frustrating i tell ya
Sadly no. That component is no longer available through Quicksilver or the aftermarket. Your best bet is to find an old part and do a Frankenstein job (EBay, etc.). I ended up splicing new stranded leads onto mine with solder and heat shrink. You might try an older style auto repair shop that rebuilds distributors.
1969 mercury 650 four cylinder the starter solenoid is underneath the starter, I just bought the cdi replacement internal wire harness like yours, one of the issues i am having is that my external plug and external wiring harness only has six wires/pins, the cdi internal wiring harness has seven male pins F which is white according to cdi directions is not used, when i hook it up as diagrams show all i get is one Click from the starter solenoid, something is very odd we have similar motors but your starter solenoid has easy access mine is buried under the starter and in this video i couldn't capture a vie of your rectifier, i bet mine is different than yours as well? so still working on the motor and just ordered a starter solenoid but i really suspect the issue is the wiring from key switch to internal plug
Hey there a quick question about the tether im installing one now and was wondering when the engine is running and then the tether gets pulled does the bottom trigger post get grounded out?
On my thunderbolt 3 when you short the brown wire from the trigger to ground you will safely cut ignition. You should see the tilt switch (mercury switch) wired here as well which serves the same purpose. If you are wiring in a tether at the helm control just one wire from this terminal up to the kill switch. The other side of the kill switch just needs to go to a clean common ground. Hope this helps.
It's a single wire that goes to my throttle control at the helm. The switch is normally open and if it is triggered (tether pulls it closed) it cuts spark. I can send a snapshot of the wiring diagram if needed.
Is the bottom wire to the trigger supposed to get battery voltage with the key on the on position? Also is it supposed to get constant voltage while it's running?
On the left side (facing aft) with 4 terminals on the switch box, the Red position is B+ constant (not switched) and is important to have your battery disconnected anytime you are playing with the wiring. For this reason I use a disconnect switch at my battery for transport to avoid potential for a short when trailering. The lower White position is switched power from the throttle. This is B+ in the RUN and START key position. Note this is the wiring for a type 3 solid state Thunderbolt setup for the 650SS and 500SS, and may be different depending on the outboard / ignition system you are working on.
@langbros.1907 what about the bottom wire to the trigger (the 3 wire side) on the distributor side of the switchbox? Is that supposed to get full 12v with the key on? And is that constant while the key is in run position?
Very good ignition system mercury
amazing how different mine and yours is my starter solenoid is under the starter motor, I bought the same internal wiring harness as you have but directions says White wire is not hooked up when a diagram shows the white wire (F) hooked up, it looks like you have your white wire hooked up, so from the bottom up you have white, red, then brown i assume? also my mercury switch is above the switch box assembly black to frame brown to brown on switch box. Yeah you know the aluminum bracket they give you for the internal wiring harness? I had to Shave quite a bit off mine on the left side just so i could get it to fit and i also had to take off a bulging diaphragm housing held with three bolts then install the bracket to hold the internal wiring harness, then install back the diaphragm housing back on with no room to tighten up the lower right bolt completely tight. so frustrating i tell ya
Hello, do you know where I can get a new or refurbished trigger my three cables are hanging by a thread?
Sadly no. That component is no longer available through Quicksilver or the aftermarket. Your best bet is to find an old part and do a Frankenstein job (EBay, etc.). I ended up splicing new stranded leads onto mine with solder and heat shrink. You might try an older style auto repair shop that rebuilds distributors.
1969 mercury 650 four cylinder the starter solenoid is underneath the starter, I just bought the cdi replacement internal wire harness like yours, one of the issues i am having is that my external plug and external wiring harness only has six wires/pins, the cdi internal wiring harness has seven male pins F which is white according to cdi directions is not used, when i hook it up as diagrams show all i get is one Click from the starter solenoid, something is very odd we have similar motors but your starter solenoid has easy access mine is buried under the starter and in this video i couldn't capture a vie of your rectifier, i bet mine is different than yours as well? so still working on the motor and just ordered a starter solenoid but i really suspect the issue is the wiring from key switch to internal plug
Checking back in. Did you get your wiring issue figured out?
@@langbros.1907 yeah i had the black and yellow wire on the wrong poles on the solenoid, once i swaped them over fired right up
Hey there a quick question about the tether im installing one now and was wondering when the engine is running and then the tether gets pulled does the bottom trigger post get grounded out?
On my thunderbolt 3 when you short the brown wire from the trigger to ground you will safely cut ignition. You should see the tilt switch (mercury switch) wired here as well which serves the same purpose. If you are wiring in a tether at the helm control just one wire from this terminal up to the kill switch. The other side of the kill switch just needs to go to a clean common ground. Hope this helps.
How did you connect that orange with to a tether kill switch ? Would you have a wiring description of it
It's a single wire that goes to my throttle control at the helm. The switch is normally open and if it is triggered (tether pulls it closed) it cuts spark. I can send a snapshot of the wiring diagram if needed.
Is the bottom wire to the trigger supposed to get battery voltage with the key on the on position? Also is it supposed to get constant voltage while it's running?
On the left side (facing aft) with 4 terminals on the switch box, the Red position is B+ constant (not switched) and is important to have your battery disconnected anytime you are playing with the wiring. For this reason I use a disconnect switch at my battery for transport to avoid potential for a short when trailering. The lower White position is switched power from the throttle. This is B+ in the RUN and START key position. Note this is the wiring for a type 3 solid state Thunderbolt setup for the 650SS and 500SS, and may be different depending on the outboard / ignition system you are working on.
@langbros.1907 what about the bottom wire to the trigger (the 3 wire side) on the distributor side of the switchbox? Is that supposed to get full 12v with the key on? And is that constant while the key is in run position?