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From the SEALOC service manual the weight of these 4-cylinder 2 strokes is 230-250lbs.

Most OE parts are sadly used up, so finding them NOS from a Merc / quicksilver dealer is difficult. You can find them readily on eBay, or there is an aftermarket company that makes retrofit kits at CDI Electronics.

You may try marineengineparts.com. This has been very useful parts source for me for many makes/models.

I can’t thank you enough man I appreciate you. Happy Holidays! Cheers 🥂

No problem. Have a good one!

@@farmboypullingteam8561 good deal, there’s not a whole lot to that part but it can see some pretty large forces if it’s forced. Definitely the “fuse” in an otherwise excellent gearbox. Hope it works out!

Nice. I would recommend you check that the crank is still free turning. By hand if possible. If it’s sticky remove the plugs and squirt some WD-40 down the cylinders and let it sit for a few days. Replace oil and filter before you try starting. If everything checks out, test spark and remove any old fuel from the tank and the carb. There is a strainer/filter on the fuel feed line at the carb. Make sure that is clean. These machines are pretty impressive for starting after sitting for a long time…. It’s the fuel quality and battery life that are really the high maintenance items. 12 V conversion is an absolute necessity, once you’ve screwed around with a 6V you will never go back. I have a pretty universal wiring system for a single wire alternator, the trickiest part is making a bracket to fit your mount. Once you’ve worked up to the point to do the conversion drop me a message and I can either post a video or send you some info through email. Have fun.

@@langbros.1907 Thank you so much. Would you happen to know if yesterday's Tractors website is safe?

It is safe. I wouldn’t buy anything off of that site, but there are a lot of owners with good information.

@@langbros.1907 Thanks again. I'm checking the options. Lol.

Been a while. I think I got it at Detroit Ball Bearing, but might be mistaken. I’ll look up the part number when I get a minute. Pretty sure it crosses to a number of manufacturers.

Try Wheelhorsepartsandmore.com. You need your model, but they have a lot of individual parts and rebuild kits.

@langbros.1907 alright thanks I have no clue on the model but I should be able to figure it out

@@langbros.1907 i got they bearings now but what about the high and low shift fork?

Toro p/n 116636-03. You can order from a dealer or find it online.

There are two places. 1) a pipe plug on the LH side of the PTO housing. 2) a pipe plug on the LH side of the transmission casting. You can fill to volume spec, but to the bottom of the fill hole on the trans is pretty close to spec capacity. Be warned this is a LOT of gear oil!

50:1. I use a premix bottle I got from West Marine (or any marine supplier) to take the guess work out of it. Just keep the bottle on the boat in one of my lockers so it is there whenever I fill up, you just take the fill up gallons at the pump and precisely measure the amount of oil you need to add. I use Mercury Quicksilver 2-stroke oil.

I’ll have the entire control and harness for sale on eBay in a little bit if you think it’s what you need.

Locate your serial number on the stern clamp. Look up your model on marineengine.com. There are comprehensive parts lists and diagrams. For main wiring harness consider mercury marine or cdi electronics.

Mercury quicksilver offers these aftermarket controls as replacements. Honestly I’ve seen them branded as many things, but are all single sourced from somewhere in china. These are not as nice as oe merc-controls, but gets the job done. Amazon sells them, just read the fine print as there are many part number variations based on equipment (choke, kill switch, trim switch, tach lead, etc.)

Hi Skip. Without much more detail it is hard to give you a diagnosis. If your pump is seized then you have a mechanical failure inside the pump, the rotor shaft bearings are frozen in place, or corrosion has rendered the vanes/rotor inoperable. The only way you will be able to determine the problem is remove the pump and disassemble it. The cartridge consists of a vanes and a rotor (the moving parts), and a rotor housing (stationary). This generates the fluid flow. This is controlled by a valve. If the valve is stuck, the pump may not operate, but usually will not be "seized". Pump internals have very tight machining tolerances and are typically hard to recover if too forgone. This is difficult to explain over YT comments but you can reach me at casey.r.lang@gmail.com if you want to discuss further. The good news is that you can always use an aftermarket pump if yours can't be salvaged... it will take some creativity but it can be done. You can also rebuild the working end of your pump if you know the make/model and cartridge kits are available. Hope this helps, feel free to email and we can continue the conversation.

Try an online forum search, or even Facebook. There are a bunch of large old Merc group pages there where some solid people can share knowledge. One book you want to get is a SEALOC repair manual. 18-01406 (ISBN 978-0-89330-013-5) covers 40-115hp 3/4 cylinder two strokes for 1965-89. Not comprehensive but a really good reference, and has good wiring diagrams.

Not as sure about the 70’s models. My 67-68 engines have interchangeable legs… but you need to be aware of the subtle differences. There are three different types of drive shaft designs in two lengths. Cam Shift Type I and Cam Shift Type II use different size water pumps, and there are two different gear ratios based on displacement and torque rating (13/30 or 14/29)

Super cool LB. You can still get many parts through Mercury / Quicksilver. Sierra Marine also carries certain parts. I would recommend Marineengine.com. This is a good site for a lot of applications that has exploded views for parts finding. I’ve had an overall good experience with them. For the things that are out of service support, I use eBay mostly… there are a lot of old-timers that have beautiful NOS parts to be had.

And they have repair manuals. So you can do it yourself..

Thanks Jim. Totally agree marine engine is a great parts source. Thanks for the kind feedback.

Awesome Andy. I love the smell of premix in the morning….. smells like…. Victory

Thanks for the positive feedback! Really appreciate it.

Thanks BKG, I appreciate the kind words. I get a lot of satisfaction out of these projects and am glad there is an audience out there that enjoys it.

Thanks. Got it out twice last year before I had some personal issues. Loved every minute of it. Was definitely worth the work.

Yeah, there is no easy way to say it, but these engines are 5 pounds in a 1 pound bag. Patience and practice and once you take it apart enough you get good muscle memory.

@@langbros.1907 it was a learning experience digging into it for sure fortunately I did not have to take off the lower cowl and managed to remove the starter and solenoid and change them out

Checking back in. Did you get your wiring issue figured out?

@@langbros.1907 yeah i had the black and yellow wire on the wrong poles on the solenoid, once i swaped them over fired right up

Cool. Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks. Have fun out there on the water.

@@langbros.1907 Oh My Gosh! Am I getting in deep! Ordered a new wiring harness, going to figure out how to do new fuel lines, going to pull the carbs, replace the impeller, lube the lower and add a new prop. No one on RUclips shows the front and rear support brackets coming off. The carburetors just magically are accessible. Seems pretty straight forward... I guess we will see! Thanks again for sharing you video. I will give you and update in a couple of weeks!

@Markomyt1 nice. Yeah… getting down to the power head is a real mo-fo…. Usually involves removing the upper bracket and the CDI bracket. Pretty sure you will end up removing the trigger (distributor) as well to gain access to the carb nuts. Nothing is easy. You might check out Mercson’s channel, very helpful.

@Markomyt1 if you need I can do a walkaround on my 650, it’s out on the stand right now. Let me know.

@@langbros.1907 I just can't get the front plate(Shroud) or starter off. Where do I start? In this part of the video you have that all out... ruclips.net/video/w9tufH6g1nE/видео.html Starting to think I may have to pull the powerhead... except, I should be able to get to the carbs without that. Little nervous about pulling the trigger...

Let me lookup a diagram for you and post a link. Depending on your control the wire colors and pinouts may be mismatched. You may need to trace these circuits from the master plug at the engine back to the control. If you are just getting a click and no starter engagement sounds like a general wiring problem not necessarily ignition.

Send me an email at casey.r.lang@gmail.com and I will send you a scan of the wiring diagram.

@@langbros.1907 that could be but the day b4 i soldered and replaced some wires it did run on the water i just had no speedometer that's why i unsoldered it from the ignition switch and followed a diagram resoldering.

@@langbros.1907 sent thanks a bunch

On my thunderbolt 3 when you short the brown wire from the trigger to ground you will safely cut ignition. You should see the tilt switch (mercury switch) wired here as well which serves the same purpose. If you are wiring in a tether at the helm control just one wire from this terminal up to the kill switch. The other side of the kill switch just needs to go to a clean common ground. Hope this helps.

Thanks Skip. Keep at that 570, that is a real work horse. Grandpa had an early 1960's 540 and I swear he used that thing for everything... it had the low slung exhaust so it maneuvered in and out of buildings easier, spinout rims and the 3 point. Always loved the style of the two the retro looking 40 with the bullet nose and the cream colored 540 with the long square nose and the cool single gauge on the dash panel. They definitely don't make them like this anymore.

Agreed sir. Thanks for the comments, good to hear from fellow enthusiasts!

On the left side (facing aft) with 4 terminals on the switch box, the Red position is B+ constant (not switched) and is important to have your battery disconnected anytime you are playing with the wiring. For this reason I use a disconnect switch at my battery for transport to avoid potential for a short when trailering. The lower White position is switched power from the throttle. This is B+ in the RUN and START key position. Note this is the wiring for a type 3 solid state Thunderbolt setup for the 650SS and 500SS, and may be different depending on the outboard / ignition system you are working on.

@langbros.1907 what about the bottom wire to the trigger (the 3 wire side) on the distributor side of the switchbox? Is that supposed to get full 12v with the key on? And is that constant while the key is in run position?

The 49-58 model 40 came with a Buda 6B230 gas or a Buda 6B230 diesel. I think the engine you are talking about was the Hercules 4.9L which you could get on the later models (like a 570).

My pleasure. More on the way. I've got my 68' 1250 6 cylinder broke down at the moment.

120-125psi is good.

@@langbros.1907 thank you so much

Thank you Glen! I appreciate the kind comments.

Excellent feedback Cap'n Ron. Thanks for the insight.

The 1967 65hp was a 62.35(up from 60 cubes in 66) Cubic in Block, not the 66 cu in. It shared the Bore and Stroke with the 67 110hp As for your other comments about the Inline 6s... The Pistons used in the 90s were used in some earlier 115s, and the 72 140. The 150, later 140s and even later 115s used a Much different Piston. Reed Blocks varied Considerably, as did the Carbs, Exhaust Tuning was also different.. While it was possible to turn a 90 into an early 115, it was not possible to turn it, or an early 115 into a 140, as the Blocks had serious Differences

Thanks. I got most from marineengineparts.com, sierra marine, and CDI electronics.

Thanks so much for the kind comments. Glad you enjoyed it, and I'm sure your car will turn out great!

Sure thing Phil, I’ll put one in the can once I get back out in the shop. Thanks for the support.

Not sure if it's any help but from a couple diagrams i have seen the grey wire goes to the choke solenoid from the internal wiring harness and from the external wiring harness the grey wire is hooked up to the choke switch/button really on the remote control, once you go to start it press down the choke switch it should activate the choke solenoid under hood behind the front plate that activates the choke

So true brother.

Not yet. Too many projects! When I do I'll make sure to post a video.

Oakley show was great this year. Great place. One of my favorites.

Awesome Steve.... you will be pleased.

Thanks.

Thanks Ranger374. Appreciate the feedback. Keep those videos coming, I enjoy your channel.

Thanks Bryan. Great question, if you have the double sided tie rod like mine it is hard to find the outer with the LH thread and it's an unusual size. Steiner or jensales didn't carry them (they might now) so I ended up reconditioning my tubes and bought new inners/outers online. They are Moog problem solver rod ends used for an HD truck application that was an exact fit. I'll find the part numbers and send a follow-up.

Pretty sure these were moog es2121L and es2120R. 11/16-18 thread, one each per side.

Thanks! I'll check into that & also confirm that my tie rods are the same.

Thank you! Good to hear from you Michell. Hope that Massey is running strong!

Thanks bud. Appreciate the kind words.

There is a lot unavailable, but there are many parts available through eBay or FB marketplace from donors. Most of the mission critical things you need you can get from marine engine.com, sierra, or quicksilver. Ignition parts are tricky but they are out there. CDI makes a full line or replacements.

@@langbros.1907 thank you!

@@langbros.1907 you sure you don't want to take on a side job? I could bring it to you

Sorry brother. My day job has me completely maxed out.

@@langbros.1907 totally get that. Thanks for taking the time to reply and answer questions it's greatly appreciated!