How to Make Prepreg Carbon Fibre Parts (XPREG® XC110)
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- Опубликовано: 16 июл 2024
- Project list (links and prices) www.easycomposites.co.uk/lear...
Complete introduction to out-of-autoclave prepreg carbon fibre using the special XPREG® XC110 system. Explains what prepregs are, how they are stored, shipped and handled and what materials and equipment are needed to work with them.
In this tutorial, we use the prepreg carbon fibre mould which we made in the preceding tutorial. 
Хобби
These are honestly some of the best tutorials in all of youtube. Clear, thorough, gives options, does and dont's, and general tips. Fantastic work!
Glad you like them!
I absolutely agree.
Not sure how I got here, but this guy is a really solid presenter. 11/10
i give it 9/11
@@ahriman46 a explosive score!
L
@Kobe Jabari SCAM. Go away fool
@@GordonGreenCincinnati They're bots. Just report them as spam.
{always} Outstanding video tutorials... Presenter is top notch. Thank you
superbly written script and confidently presented. excellant work all involved.
Sorry, had to re-upload the same tutorial when I realised it was missing the sidebar which helps to navigate through the content!
Easy Composites Ltd awesome this series of prepreg tutorials, I'm in love with that oven 😍.
How much would you say this entire process costs- for example, If I have a CNC and the Oven -
How much would the cnc board cost?
How much would the CNC sealer cost?
How much would the prepreg mold cost?
How much would the bags cost?
so on...
Even a rough estimate would help.
Is there a minimum size required per roll order? - Thanks.
Excellent videos. I have one question you might be able to answer. I'm using currently XC110 3k and 6k prepregs. When I intend to use them, I defrost them for four hours usually. But the problem I'm facing is that prepregs become very hard, unlike the ones in your videos. What could be the reason if I may ask? Thank you.
FYI, I have not exceeded the recommended out time.
Easy Composites Ltd hi where can I order from you to the USA?
Where can I get those tools to laminate. I just started a job but in need of some tools
Having today a job interview as a starting composite engineer, thanks for the clear videos guys! :)
Hope the interview went well!! :)
Excellent Tutorials from Easy Composites. Very clearly explained and a great introduction. Thanks for putting these together.
Wow, That did not feel like a 17 min video. Great work
excellent tutorial. looking forward to learn more from you. you are the best among all other videos I've watched
It blows me away how amazing your products come out! I dont believe that I have the talent nor patience for this, but would love some CF parts on my car or motorcycle.
Excellent presentation! Very informative and clear. Kudos to the presenter!
What a beautiful material. I am glad I found you.
Guys you are the best. Wish I could have enough budget to study on your courses.
Great tutorial, with all the detail hand work involved no wonder CF parts like that timing cover can be expensive.
Seriously the best how to I've ever seen. You are exceptional honestly
Thank you Mitch, that's very kind.
I do this for a living , and this is spot on! Good Job!!
Seal of approval! Thanks Chuck.
Great presentation, easy to understand but very detailed. It came clear to me that it will take lots of practice to build something looking as perfect as the part shown there. Best regards from Germany
Thanks F lx, we appreciate the great feedback and best wishes to you in Germany! :)
you know the presenter is solid when he makes you want to buy their product haha
This guy LOVES carbon fibre. Has a carbon fibre butter knife and everything
You guys are so awesome. Great video.
Excellent demonstration!
Thankyou to the Author 😅 I learnt so much 💙
Wow, clean work
Great video, as usual. Tip for future videos, though; please, if you're going to hold the part/focus object, please hold it still or better yet just set it on the table so the camera can see it easily.
The surface looks great in Glossy
This is so helpful, thanks
Fantastic tutorial, wish you guys were in Australia!!
agreed!! buying composites in Australia is a pain in the arse
agreed!
@@oliverlavermicocca2455 Thank you for spelling arse properly. I can't stand all the wannabe Americans populating this country.
Yes I have enjoyed this tutorial! 👌
Still the best composites videos on youtube. Su perb
bhai bohot sahi explain kiya tumne:-)
Excellent demo. This is how you sell products. By making these great tutorials you mitigate any confusion or misguidance that may result in poor ratings from the ignorant.
Currently i have no room to store this Prepreg in a freezer nor do i have space for a suitable oven. Knowing those requirements i wont end up buying something i cant store or use properly.
In my case vacuum impregnation is the best option although a bit more involved. I already have a suitable vacuum pump. i just need a few other things to get started.
Glad you liked the tutorial, even if you've concluded that for you resin infusion will be a better fit. It is worth pointing out that although we state an 'out-life' of 30 days for our XC110 system, this is VERY much on the safe side and we have used material that's been out of the freezer for 2-3 months without any problems at all. Officially we'll stick with the 30 days figure but this is not a reactive system and so if you do want to experiment with prepregs without the ability to keep them frozen then you wouldn't have to worry too much about them being out for more than 30 days at ambient.
Pretty good tutorial I have to say. It’s not structural so both plies at 0 and the second ply also cut into the corner is no big deal although I’ve never heard of a cure being done without breather over the whole job. Even just an oven cure should still have light breather over it.
It's definitely better to not put the breather over the laminate surface when using the XC110 out-of-autoclave. It is convention for autoclave prepregs and an autoclave-cure to put breather over the whole laminate surface but we find the results are improved by not using breather over the surface under these conditions. Also, it's certainly not unheard of to use breather more sparingly even for autoclave cure conditions and actually quite important to avoid breather in particularly tight geometries.
Easy Composites Ltd yeah I mean I've never used that material so i can't speak from experience, but all clave cures should still be allowed to have the air channel that breather gives. Light can work it's way round most corners, especially if you dib the bag, and of course you can still tailor the breather into the corners if you're using heavy; kind of the same way you would the laminate on a visual ply.
Great job
its very good materials
Ok so now I’m ready to make my own f1
Could you guys do a video on the different surface finishes different methods produce? I'd love to see how I can get a perfect, glass smooth glossy finish!
You can get a very good finish straight from the mould (as you see in this video). Achieving a 100% flat surface finish from the mould is not actually possible (using the out-of-autoclave method or an autoclave cure system) because the carbon fibre will always print through slightly on the surface. Almost always, this amount of print through would be acceptable but if it isn't, the only way to achieve a perfect flat gloss is to clear coat, then flat and polish the part after it's been made.
For cutting more peices of pre preg accurately, a fabric cutting machine can be used effectively.
this is helpful for my masters thesis
Thanks, I'm glad it's helped.
it was great like always
Thanks Kara :)
nice project
Noted. Looks like I need to go shopping before I attempt fenders for my project car
This is good information
Absolutely excellent video how-to with PrePeg! I am interested in using 3D printing with PEEK plastic(Stratasys's out of patent Ultem9010 and 9085) using 3DP-Platform WorkBench Series #400 printer ("X"axis 57" by "Y"axis 39" by "Z"axis 27" high get their 2 largest diameter extruders with this rig(about 55k$ with enclosures). The method suggested skips the expensive female molding processes and gives the customer flexability with his own parts or panels(no longer wasted time making molds however u must design on CAD for actual parts destined for PrePeg coverings).
i am doing this for a few months now
Great video! Please make me some carb fiber wheels.
Good one
Hi! Excellent video!
Could I use a mid layer of foam to increase the overall strength of the final piece, or it doesn't make sense with those pre peg sheets?
Thanks
Creating a cored panel with pre-preg materials is commonly done to improve strength and stiffness so it is possible to do so. You need the right core material to withstand the cure temperatures and depending on the resin uptake of the core, you may need to use a film adhesive to add resin adhesive to bond them together properly.
Nice breakfast entertainment. Great!
Орж
яыыыыяяяы
Very nice and informative video!
Q: Looks like you have very sharp corners/edges, what is the minimum corner radious you would recommend?
Yes, we did choose to make a component with some very tight radii in this video. Tight radii like those on this component do make the layup more difficult and also increase the chances of bridging or pin-holes/micro voiding on these corners so wherever possible they should be avoided, however in this video we wanted to show what is possible. I would suggest trying to avoid corners with a radius of less than 1mm but wherever possible, make them as large as the design allows.
I've got a few questions, first doesn't a your standard twill weave carbon fiber cloth lay down extraordinarily well as in very flat and without creases into even the most intricate of molds, one of the reasons it's a beloved material for parts prototyping, what I'm asking is this stuff is not for making parts that require such precision then? in which case you'd go with a standard two part epoxy resin? I know it's strength and light weight are why it's used in motorcycling but they also use it for exhausts, because the stuff basically won't be effected at those temperatures but you were worried about excessive heat from a heat gun, does this stuff have different heat properties? So other than less mess and added material, actual time it would take and the skill needed; if you can do work with carbon fiber cloth you can do pre peg just as easily right and? What about costs over time and vise versa? plus repeatability, if you were making similar parts over and over you'd be doing it with cloth and resin correct, to yeild the most consistent results over and over, while if you were just doing a certin project once every couple years then the convenience will be worth using pre peg? what about the same parts cloth and pre peg does one out preform the other or are they apples and oranges? sorry for so many questions but this is my first time seeing pre peg, what cool stuff. made me a subscriber, thanks
Could you show how make it when the object, like a bumper, have 2 different faces ( An external clean and other with brackets in the interior. ) ? Really thanks for everything. Very helpfull. Best, P R E L !
Great common sense filmography imo. It’s made real simple for deplorables like me.
Nice.
im always curios how do you put a hole for screw like a deep one that doesnt penetrate to the back of it
How about ceramic, I do moulds in ceramic and that avoifs a lot of barriers that are needed
What is the heat properties of the prepreg? can it be used for intercooler piping intake manifolds and valve covers?
The Tg of the resin system used in the XC110 prepreg is 120°C therefore it should not be used for applications where it will be exposed to service temperatures of around 115°C. The service temperature around the intake and valve covers will depend on a number of factors so you're best checking your configuration using an infrared thermometer in order to know what temperature you have in these areas.
At what tempararure heating and coolingis done ,Sir
Lit video all explained bang bang bang thanjs
I've watched quite a few of your videos and they're all very helpful! However there is one thing i'd still like to ask, that is; how to manufacture a part that has 2 moulds (a negative and a positive side)? Meaning that one mould has the relative "bottom" side of the part and mould 2 has the relative "top" side of the part. How do i go about gluing or curing the two moulded parts together seamlessly to make one smooth and perfect finished part?
Thanks!
If you make them as 2 parts, then use a structural adhesive to bond them together seamlessly. Alternatively, depending on equipment and facilities available to you, it may be possible to make them with matched tooling, but this can be quite complicated. It is not a process we have videos for yet but is something we may cover in the future.
What is the best way to reseal the carbon roll bags after each use? Doesn't appear to be much bag material to twist or fold.
No, that's true, there a great deal. There is more 'slack' on the full rolls, which I guess are the ones that are likely to be in and out of the freezer more times, but on the shorter rolls it's really a matter of taping them back up if you need to re-freeze them. Some 2" wide clear tape will do the trick fine.
Can I get the links of previous you have discussed in starting
congratulations for your videos.. they are always very useful. one question, is it necessary to keep the vacuum pump on during the entire curing phase in the oven or is it enough that there is a perfect vacuum in the bag?
Yes we always recommend keeping the pump on throughout the cure cycle.
Could this be achieved using dry reinforcement and wet laminating for small production purposes to save on cost? What would the cons be exactly? Thank you!
Awesome video, thank you for sharing!
Quick question. If I was to use a powder coating oven, how would you go about working the vacuum pump in?
Thanks!!
A form of bulkhead fitting (Pneumatic/airline suppliers) that allows attachment of the pump the the fitting and then internally from the fitting to the part.
@@easycompositestv thank you
Hallo, perfect video tutorial. Thanks for it:) How do you repair the surface imperfections on prepreg parts?
In many cases they can be filled by lacquering the parts if you choose to go that route.
Thanks for answer:)I will try it:)If it will not work,I will try a high temperature epoxy resin.
I layup for a living... I build nacelles for the A320 Neo and the G500/G600
Isn't that the same intro sound as the TED talks??
Really solid presentation. two questions here:
1. does industry also use the draping and prepreg procedures shown in this presentations? Since it seems to involve a lot of manual adjustment, large deviation may occur in large production.
2. in your channel, carbon fiber composite is mostly manufactured for laminate which has excellent lateral mechanical property but weak along out of plane direction. do you guys also make bulk composite parts which have fiber direction not only in plane but also in out of plane direction? Thank you.
Higher volume parts may need slightly different process and tools, however there are plenty of business using these techniques and materials to make parts in smaller and medium volumes.
You can make parts stronger in those direction by rotating the plies of the material in a lay up. For many non-structural parts, this is not necessary though.
I have two questions
Can the carbon look nice finished when the mold side isn't the part we want to look at? How are we going to achieve nice quality finish in this situation?
Second question is when do we need to use extra epoxy on the fibers?
Also the weight of the new carbon part you made vs the old engine cover. Thanks!
In this tutorial the mold is female. You can always use a male instead of a female mold. The process isn't much different from that with a male mold. The 2 molds at 8:59 are male.
i could see how this could appeal to a chef or someone in the culinary/food industry, all the prep is a lot like baking a cake. which sucks for me cause i'm impatient and have never gotten on with cooking. however my wife and mother could probably build chassis for Bugatti Veyrons as they LOVE this kind of prep and set work. lol
I have a question can I use it on a motocross clutch cover which has a hard life so do I need more layers to make it stronger? (If yes how many)
In theory, yes, it should be possible - you would need to incorporate some of the fibres at +/-45 degrees as well as 0/90 to ensure you had uniform mechanical strength in each direction. As a starting point, I would recommend matching the thickness of the original part if made in metal - doing so will result in a lighter finished piece but with similar overall strength.
Dear Sir,
If I want to make a sphere of FRP of having the dia around 1000mm then how it is possible have the same in FRP in outer side as finished....!
Still waiting for tutorial manual making helmet with making manual molding too
I've made an absolutely perfect mould using Airtech LTC3 tooling prepreg and a PU master, sealed with a very thin coat of epoxy and about 8 coats of MPP712EZ sealer from Chemtrend. I wonder why LTC3 worked so well and some other tooling systems fail with PU masters...
Its going to be down to some specific chemistry of the resins used in different pre-preg systems.
What is the shrinkage value of this 6k 416g prepeg
Are there high accuracy, automated systems for cutting pre-preg? i.e. cnc laser / router
Yes, lots of them. Generally they use a 'drag knife' on a CNC plotter. This process is often known as kitting, especially when the CNC is used to cut lots of copies of each piece.
If anyone is concerned about prepreg, Formula Atlantic, Cart, and Indy cars all used prepreg. I can't speak for F1 because I was not in the industry.
F1 was the first one to use carbon. If I'm not mistaken they started to use it back in the 80'
Yes, i believe it was Lotus who first used it.
McLaren mp4
@@argentosebastian he's talking about prepreg carbon fiber specifically.
Why can’t we get plain weave hi-modulus in usa??
Amazing video, thanks a lot for sharing this knowledge
How does prepreg stick to aluminum parts:
Would embedded the aluminum parts in your prepreg layers, or would you glue the aluminum parts once the prepreg is cured and sanded.
I'm making about mainly tube fitting (aluminum tube to carbon tube (partially wrapping the alu tube) transition)
Great job
Cheers
Prepreg can be cured directly to aluminium using the resin to bond however, for this type of application with tubes, it would probably be better to cure the carbon separately and bond in place as a secondary operation. The difference in thermal expansion of the aluminum vs carbon can cause issues as the 2 materials expand and contract at different rates during the curing phase.
@@easycompositestv thanks a lot, indeed I've forgotten this CTE differences during curing
Imagine you've laminated and vacuum bagged, how long can you keep them like that before you cure in the oven?
I was thinking of laminating several parts over a day or two in the evenings after work, say Thurs-Fri, then run the oven early Saturday morning whilst at I'm home all day.
Not a problem at all. The outlife of the pre-preg is fine in most cases and a few days under vacuum at room temperature may very slightly help with consolidation on some difficult parts - in the same way debulking helps.
Can I put forward a suggestion for a tutorial video. Visiting the Autosport show every year the carbon WRC spoilers never fail to amaze me up close. All multi element with smooth faces on all sides.
How would we go about something like this www.rally24.com/rally-parts/all-ford-focus-wrc-36247.html
A lot of them are made in multiple parts using the same principles.
can you explain the oven cure tell us the times and temperature in detail? i want to make carbon fiber rims
The full cure cycle detail is in the Technical Data sheet for the pre-preg you choose to use.
Hello, I love your videos, thanks for everything, there are so well explained !
I'm looking for a video about latex bladders, is that in your plans ? And do you think that a latex bladder part could be stronger than one using a vacuum bag, a vacuum bag put on the piece 1 atmospheric pressure, is not it ? And a latex bladder could be pump up to few atmospheric pressure ? ????
Hi Jean-pierre, we might well do a video in the future about positive pressure bladders. At the moment, I don't think it's imminent because we have lots of other things to cover too and - to be honest - moulds that can take high pressures come with several risks which make them less suitable for home projects but it's still something we could cover in the future. To answer your question, there could be advantages to higher pressure (more consolidation) over just the one bar of pressure available in a vacuum only setup, although if done correctly, the difference would be small.
@@easycompositestv Thanks ! That's helpful 👌👍
Hi! How can I change the color of the carbon fiber? Like the carbon fiber on the new bugatti chiron? It's prefabricated red or ?
Carbon fibre itself is charcoal in colour. You can have hybrid fabrics made with a half carbon, half dyed polyester mix but that is clearly a half black, half red look. To get an even red colour like on the Chiron, the easiest method is to spray the car with a tinted lacquer. Various paint companies offer tinted lacquers. With multiple layers and a strong tint, you could get the effect they have on the Chiron.
Great tutorial but I need some advice? I am trying to copy a motorcycle part but how do I copy the inside too to match the top part?
Thanks
You would need an inner mould or matched tooling. You can make it in two parts and bond together, or use carefully designed matched tooling to make one piece.
@@easycompositestv ok that makes sense ! What weight carbon would you recommend ?thanks
Nice video, but what do you do if you have some threded screws on the inside of the part ? How do you make a screw thred inside the part, as you generally are making the carbon fiber part on one face of the main part ? Thank you.
Generally screw threaded fixings like that are created after the main part. As the typical carbon moulding processes are "single sided" it can be hard to create fixings on the reverse. Different ways can be done, including bonding in aftermarket threaded studs or fixings, cutting up the original part to salvage fixings or fabricating or casting them in resin then bonding into place.
Easy Composites Ltd is there a tutorial on how to do that? If not, maybe you can make one. It would be very helpfull. Thank you.
Every item is different so there no real way of covering them all in one tutorial.
I wonder how important the temperarture during the curing process of the carbon fibre really is, does it make´s the material really that much stronger ?
Yes Matt, in the case of curing a prepreg material like we used in this video it simply won't cure without elevated temperature. The precision on the terperature (in terms of ramps and dwells) is more important for out of autoclave prepregs (like our XC110) but you will always find that prepregs have a cure cycle. It's often not a matter of the exact cure cycle making the cured laminate stronger but rather controlling the temperature in order to prevent an exotherm or to ensure proper resin flow.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
👍
How much suction is needed when vacuum bagging the wrapped part? Would attaching the suction hose to a common heavy duty shop-vac be sufficient or does it require much greater amounts of suction to pull out any air bubbles?
Your vacuum pump needs to be capable of high levels of vacuum eg 29.9inhg or better. A vacuum cleaner will not get anywhere near close enough.
Do we need to apply releasing agent over mould surface before first ply?
Yes you always need release agent.
I HOPE YOU GUYS ARE AROUND FOREVER BECAUSE NEXT YEAR I PLAN TO USE A LOOOOOOOOT OF YOUR TOOLS.
Certainly don't plan on going anywhere!
does the high-temperature mold last longer then unimold on out of oven resin infusion?
Both have a hard mould finish so both are likely to have similar lifespan in terms of surface degradation. Of course the Uni-mould system is slightly easier to use and slightly cheaper to produce so for resin infusion only moulds is the preferred choice.
Dear Paul,
When do you say that polyester and vinylester tooling systems are don't have high surface temperature you mean HDT (Heat Deflection Temperature) and Tg (Glass Transit Temperature) of surface, or not?
Yes, the lower HDT of those systems mean that they are generally unsuitable for use with the XPREG pre-preg system. It is just possible to use Uni-mould tools when they have had a full postcure - however it needs a special low temperature cure cycle and the cosmetic results are not quite as good as other tooling systems.
Can you share video on liquid compression molding composites
We certainly plan to cover this in the future so stay tuned.
hi easy composites LTD then you placing part under vaccum what kind of pump is that it is the same like AC vacum pump?
It's not dissimilar from a vacuum pump that you might use to charge an air conditioning system. The pump we used was the DVP EC.4; you can find these high quality DVP pumps on our website here: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/vacuum-equipment-and-supplies/vacuum-pumps-and-equipment/composites-vacuum-pump.html
You mention CAD flattening methods when making templates, could you point us in the direction of where to find more information about this?
Very much depends on the Specific CAD package being used as to if it has an appropriate tool built in.
I would like to have parts.
How many backing plys would you typically use when making parts this way? Thanks!
Entirely depends on the application but typically for many cosmetic trim parts, engine bay covers etc only one is needed with the 210g surface ply to give an overall part thickness of approx. 0.75mm.
What kind of glass would you use as a mould that is suitable for oven temperatures up to 200 degrees Celcius?
For a flat sheet you can use a toughened and tempered glass. They come with a range of heat resistance so you'll need to check that it can withstand the 200°C you're looking for.
wow