Dimpled Texture for the Win! | Drawer Fronts | Sideboard Pt 9
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- Опубликовано: 19 янв 2024
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These aren't your average drawer fronts! We'll make the front from two pieces and create an integrated pull by creating a relief where the two pieces join. We'll also create a dimpled texture using a Carbide Burr and a Die Grinder. The dimpled texture provides a super cool look to the fronts even though the wood itself is just regular walnut. Each dimple disrupts and reflects the light in such a way that it confuses the eye and invites people to come in for a closer look. It's a great way to add an accent but I definitely believe it needs to be used sparingly. Here's another example where I used the dimpling technique on a Trestle Table in case you want to see an additional application: thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/l...
+ The rest of the parts in this series can be found in our playlist: • Walnut & Copper Sidebo...
+ Looking for the summary video for this project? Go here: • So Much Extra! | Walnu...
+ Download the FREE plans here: thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/a...
Stuff Shown in this Series:
Amana Countersink Bit - amzn.to/4bCLdnO
Bumblechutes Finish (save 10% with coupon code TWW10) - www.bumblechutes.com/product-...
Backside Sandpaper - backsidesandpaper.com/
Milwaukee Die Grinder - amzn.to/429sbkY
Carbide Burr (Ball) - amzn.to/3tZm85M
Large Core Box Bit - amzn.to/422HziZ
Mouse Card Scraper - thewoodwhisperer.com/product/...
Leigh Dovetail Jig - www.rockler.com/leigh-d4r-pro...
My Vacuum Press Setup: www.vacupress.com/
Edge Guide - amzn.to/3T15AEp
Taper Maker Hardware Kit - thewoodwhisperer.com/product/...
Revmark White Marker - amzn.to/46qTeZu
White Pencil - amzn.to/484V5V5
Festool Domino - amzn.to/3Gby2vO
Festool OF1400 Router - amzn.to/3RbM3Qy
1/4" Upspiral Bit - amzn.to/3G8JJ6z
Titebond Extend - amzn.to/47LFPvW
Dovetail Bit - amzn.to/47g4CZj
Milwaukee Die Grinder - amzn.to/3sMmL1P
Cover Bit - amzn.to/3sKorJf
Preppin Weapon Sanding Block - amzn.to/3sJtPwi
Milwaukee Compact Router - amzn.to/3RamQG5
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Get your Pre-Order in by Feb 9th for Philip Morley's Tambour Record Console course: thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/tambour-record-console/
I love that you're still using the harbor freight clamps. They're a great bang for the buck.
This thing is going to look insane when the finish is on. Sometimes doing numerous out of the box things on one project can make things a bit overwhelming to look at, but I feel like all of these flow well, and nothing is competing for the eyes with something else.
The dimpling is cool. Gives me an idea of going with different colored veneer layers and then dimpling… hmmmm may have to try that.
I like the dimple effect on the drawers! I made a large cabinet with wide inset panel sliding doors. After multiple attempts to get them to slide smoothly on the wooden runner without sticking, I ended up using a thin spline insert on the bottom of the door made of UHMW Polyethylene. It worked great and has held up well in constant use in a commercial shop.
Love the T Shirt.🇮🇪
An interesting treatment of the drawer fronts.🙂🙂
Great work! I found that the cardboard backing of note pads are exactly 1/16 or 1/32 inch depending on the size. They can be cut into strips and work great as shims.
This is the first portion of this build that I saw (literally just subscribed) and I was so into it I kept searching for the next video not realizing it was only posted 10 hours ago. Fortunately I get to go back and watch the beginning of this project! You're a fun teacher!
Awesome! Thank you!
@@woodwhisperer Nope! Thank YOU! I binged the whole series last night and learned more than I have in months. You guys are awesome. Will definitely be taking TWW courses.
I’m really enjoying this video series! Thank you
Looks amazing thanks for sharing each step of this build
Blast that phone number in the background!! (T=4:25) Now, I've got that song stuck in my head!!! great stuff!! thanks!!
:40 “Alright you wanna get nuts?! Come on, let’s get nuts!”
Great idea for the drawer pulls! I'm definitely stealing that!
Marc, I have followed you for over 12 years, through 4 shops now.
But I must say that your hair and beard coloration is the best I have seen yet.
Thanks. It's taken me 46 years to get it right.
That’s a first- just had an Ikea furniture commercial role in the middle of this fine furniture build. It’s like they know that fitting drawers 100% frustrates me and this is the most opportune time to entice me a ready-made, less sexy sideboard. 😂
Already looks cool!
Nice work Marc!
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO
Very cool!
Looks great!
Thanks!
I frequently use 123 blocks clamped to thin boards for stability when routings tall pieces like those. That looked like the perfect place to use 2 of them clamped to the back of the drawers.
That's a cool idea
At 13:00 my mistake would have been to only cut off one side and make them non centered. I was cringing that I was going to do this. I really want to try this dimpled texture though. Combined with the drawer pull you did just screams this was a woodworker done project and a great deal of care was put into it. Really nice.
Re: playing cards as spacers, I think it was Michael Alm I saw using these plastic Handi-Shims that are setup for specific sizes and color coded. I thought maybe they were just a gimmick but I've found myself using them all the time for mounting drawer slides and gaps between drawers and doors. Very handy.
Mark, as a born and raised Missourian, you're really starting to look like one of us. Bravo, sir. Welcome to the family! 🤎
When you were using the cove bit to make the finger pulls, would you have been able to have pressed the board to the fence above the bit and lowered it in instead of trying to swing it in?
And thanks for the validation, I was experimenting with dimpled textures the other day and wasn't sure about it. But your outcome definitely showed it works!
Someone someday is going to glue their drawer fronts to the case after watching this 😂
👍👍👍👍👍
Cool
That looks amazing. Would a dremel with a similar bur have been easier?
When you use the playing cards as shims do you have to keep the same suit on each drawer or can you mix and match. I personally think diamonds for the top drawer.
I'm debating between the routed draw pulls vs push to open slides. Do you have any experience with the slides? Did you consider using them or was the routed pull the aesthetic you were going for?
2 questions, how do you sharpen goose-neck scrapers and why wear a dust mask when gluing? Thank you, nice to see somebody doing woodworking rather than just promoting a product.
It's an old video but here's how I do it: ruclips.net/video/XxYxZBzpYLc/видео.htmlsi=YcyNEcPNoLKNiEMt And the reason for the mask is because I'm not the only person in the shop so there are other things going on off-camera.
Thank you for taking the time and effort to reply. I am now heartened to buy a goose necked scraper and then sharpen it.@@woodwhisperer
Where do I start, being brand new to the cabinet world ?Trying to do a face lift to existing cabinets.
Air grinder. Super light. Super cheap. Loud though.
How are those Bremen clamps from Harbor Freight holding up?
Hey Marc, I've been eyeing the Kapex fence. Have you given your impressions on it anywhere?
Not officially. I like it a lot. Especially if you end up having to move between common angles and you don't want to have to worry about constantly messing up your zero clearance.
nice scraper, but have you done a video on how to sharpen a curved card scraper?
ruclips.net/video/XxYxZBzpYLc/видео.htmlsi=YcyNEcPNoLKNiEMt
Where do you live?
I live in Canada where the climate would cause wood furniture to warp over time. When I build pieces, I need larger gaps, and for installs like the back panel, I wouldn't be able to go with a snug fit as it'll likely bow over the years (or I have to use lots of screws all around).
I live in Missouri.
Would a Dremel be easier to handle?
You better be careful or You'll have a host of rowdy hooligans in a big line out the door if you keep making such nice things….😮
Hi, Marc, it's probably coming up in a few weeks, but how the hell did you sand/smooth out that dimple texture before finishing?
just a light touch with sandpaper. It's not something you really need to make super smooth. Just knock down any tearout for frayed material and it should be good.
First comment yeeeessssssss
Andy from sunny Scotland
i hate that blue tape with the lettering i have no clue what its for but its a pain to work with
As far as sneaking up on the spacing for the draw fronts I am going to give the metric snobs some ammo here. Why didn’t you just measure in MM’s how much overlap at the top and divide it by the number of draw spaces to get the needed amount to be cut off.
Regardless of metric vs imperial, there's a certain point in any project where it's safer to simply sneak up on a fit and abandon theoretical measurements. This is one of those cases, for me.
@@woodwhisperer Very true, I just thought getting an initial idea with a measurement of how much to take off would save a guy from having to use the cards and tape numerous times. You can still sneak up on it.
@@richardlug6139I’m guessing that over the years he has done this enough times that he basically knows what the spacing will be based on how many drawers he has and then just goes through the process over and over again for the purpose of explaining the process to new viewers and honestly doing math is kind of unconsciously inherent in the process because you know how much space you need and your brain’s natural ability to do rough estimations fill in the rest to get a starting point. That being said, I’m sure I’ll be doing the math to get started once I get to a project with multiple drawers.