Your Fusion 360 skills are impressive. I enjoy watching you build your projects very much. I know of no one that pays as much attention to detail as you. I am inspired. Thanks.
Mr. "Attention to detail" himself, is Robin Renzetti. If you aren't already acquainted with his online content, I can highly recommend it all. ruclips.net/user/ROBRENZ
It's interesting to watch. But Fusion is too fragile a tool to use for me. It is impressive that you know its failure points and gingerly avoid them. Anyone watching how easy you make using the tool tries to do what you doing is in for a rude awakening.
I think you can turn on scale sketch at initial dimension (or something like that) to prevent turning rough shapes inside out. It basically scales all the geometry the moment you add the first dimension so the basic shape is retained. Somewhere in settings. As always, love your videos!
Have you got access to a flat bed scanner? If the part was placed on the bed with a scale it would give you the exact shape which could then be modeled in fusion etc. by referencing the image. The scale would ensure no lens distortion or scale factor image required. You could use your caliper and height gauge method to confirm some check measurements/ accuracy. Cool project!!
I do that all the time aside fromthe closefocus issue it imports to Solidedge with sub thousandth accuracy. for things like tool outlines etc. it is essential for time savings.
Hi from Australia, Thank you for all your knowledge that you share. "YOU ARE THE MAN" Im new to this and at 73 just started with 3d printer and cnc that Im modifying. Thanks for your help. Ive subscribed. Regards Merv
I added a VFD to a lathe. The lathe came with a joystick that handles forward/reverse and motor brake. I wired it to the VFD for forward/reverse and, using the same position (down) as brake. VFDs typically provide an emergency brake that uses DC braking which is fired by closing a contact. It stops the machine abruptly. It works extremely well on my lathe. I want to do this same modification to an identical drill press, but I plan on using the joystick, which should also answer the safety lurkers. Really delightful video & I subscribed immediately. Please keep it up. Idiots like me need this thoughtful guidance!
Love the video. My only worry is you've effectively removed the ability to hit the stop switch in an emergency! Or do you have an emergency off somewhere else?
A drill press accident that results in the inability to use both hands is unlikely, but if happened would likely prevent them from being able to press the emergency stop anyways, so turning a protruded knob to stop isn't more of an issue then pressing a recessed stop button...
I just started messing around with f360 recently and boy did I realize how much I was missing just from watching you casually go through your design process
Great videos! I'm learning a lot, thanks. Saw a few mentioning - take a picture and import - I came across a post awhile ago that recommended using a flatbed scanner instead of a camera because it eliminates the parallax. I've done it and it works well. Another trick I used for copying an organic shape was to use large soldering wire (like used in plumbing for sweating copper pipes). I flattened the solder wire by rolling it between a flat table top and a piece of a 1x12 board (whatever you have that's flat). Then form the wire around the shape. Scan the formed wire on the flatbed scanner and import. Perfect fit. You can also convert the BMP (or whatever) to an SVG before importing to make things easier. Inkscape works for that (et al).
This is incredibly awesome. I have the same drill press and have upgraded it already to VFD. But this integration of the VFD with the drill press is Stellar! Do you simply use this to turn on or off the power, so your VFD is always on, or do you have a secondary switch to cut power to it? Do you have a link to the chuck you are using? Love your channel and the quality of your work, the process of how you use Fusion 360 and the journey to the finished product. I have to say I lose a lot of sleep after watching your channel. I can't wait to get out to the shop and get to work.
Your videos are great. Such clear inatruction. I set up a vfd on myblathe a couple years ago, now wiring up a knee mill vfd. Your layout and parts lists have been a great help. THANKS
James, you never fail to inspire me so much farther than I thought possible. Every one of your videos are so packed with details, I actually need to take a break at the end and rethink my life choices 😂. I need to get busy...... Thank you ! Joel
Excellent job of explaining the process. I do have a suggestion however. While you are updating the drill press electricals, consider adding a foot-switch to control the spindle rotation. Drilling can turn into a "three hand" operation fairly quickly and being able to stop rotation by simply releasing the foot switch is a definite advantage.
just a suggestion... maybe add space for an independent control switch of the table work light... I'm just in awe of your Fusion 360 skills and project material sourcing abilities.👍😎👍
I recently got a drill press for the shop and will be making a new control box with a Bud box, but your setup here is awesome and looks pro! I enjoyed the explanation as you went through Fusion360 designing the new plate.
Great Video ... yes indeed , those perfectionist tendencies will put neon lights around any defect you had an opportunity to correct and if you didn't do it then, it would gnawed away at you until you fixed it so good move and excellent result.
James, Thank you for another well explained logical approach to functional design. I don't get to play with fusion enough to remember all the tricks but with your videos it is a great resource for me to go to to refresh the connections between the (rapidly diminishing) neurons.
Pretty cool! I see more and more 3d printed parts coming out in higher and higher resolution. So i might one day get one of those machines. 3d printed nylon might be tougher, so it might be worth it looking into it. Greetings, Jeff
Awesome video, think I'm able to learn more from you than Saunders or Lars at my current Fusion 360 skill level. Also, it is comforting to see someone as OCD as me, I can fabricate a part that will function well but, will continue to spend more hours on it to make sure it looks good as well.
Awesome video! Watching you run Fusion always teaches me something new. Your discussion about 3D printing challenges was also very helpful. BTW, I don't think your keyless chuck will work well in reverse, but you can always swap something else in for that purpose.
Am I missing the motor and VFD video? I’ve looked for it but don’t see it. I just came into one of these Jet drill presses and would like to do this upgrade. What motor and VFD did you use?
Excellent video, as always. I picked up some good tips. I was surprised that you didn't modify the design more for 3d printing while still in Fusion. I would probably have put 45° ribs under those mounting hole bezels so they didn't need support. I've also had a lot of success with making a disposable support rib that stops 0.2mm below an overhanging face. That gives the printer enough support to air bridge quite long distances, but snaps off at a touch.
A technique that i have used previously for getting dimensions on complex parts, is to use the a conventional scanner to scan the flat face, along with a ruler for scale. Image editing (GIMP, Inkscape etc.) or even import the picture directly into Fusion360 and scale appropriately. My experience is that flat faces can be modelled to a tolerance of 0.1mm with ease.
Very cool. I've been tempted to get one of the Nova Voyager presses, but a conversion is a really cool idea. My main attraction to direct is mounting the motor closer to the spindle, because a large swing drill press is insanely deep and takes a ton of space. The Nova has a big swing but the column is the furthest point at the back and I love that.
Beautiful controls! For my stepper driver I need all that, but I need a "low/medium/high" speed range switch as well as the speed knob :) I'm working on that idea right now...
Hi James, big fan. There are hundreds of modeling how-to videos on the net but I want to learn this skill from a machinist's vantage point however you go too fast, can you do a fusion how-to for dummies series? I personally need to make boxes like this often. (FYI I have watched your playlist 3 times)
There is a specialty super low warp PETg that prints at a lower temperature than most, can print at 220-230, and it doesn't require a brim, and has much lower warp forces than eSun/Inland -- and I also confirmed it's PETg with solvent that will only work on PETg. Totalpack sells it, not sure who makes it. I've made very large boxes and with a PEI bed at 75c, in an open air printer, no warp -- flat as a concrete slab.
Instead of going around and selecting each line as you did at 18:30, you can double click the line, and Fusion will pick all the lines in that perimeter for you. ❤
As much parts as you machine out of aluminum, it would be great for you to venture into DIY anodizing. I'ts not that tough to get really good results, and of course you don't have to dye the part. You can just anodize and it pretty much renders the Al part scratch proof. I've had great results.
James your a man of many talents. Just learning to draw in inventor and watching you work in fusion360 makes me a little jealous because you just draw with no hesitation. I wondering what was causing that curvature was it a coefficient of shrinkage in the material. I'm a little new to 3D printing and doing wide prints like 10-11 inches wide they tend to curve up wards and pull off the bed. The curvature maybe due to sagging what are your thoughts.
Hmmm, you commented in the vid that you would follow-up with installation of the various pieces ... that was some time ago. I'm replacing the motor on my old camel back drill press with VFD for speed control, removing the mag starter, etc. Was there a follow-up? Cause I sure can't find it! As always, though, your vids are a treasure!
Nice project. You do give up the taper down to the chuck - If you reduced the depth would that not be a solution to the printing issues and the view to the chuck/ tool?
Dude mad skills👌 in my opinion is better to have the controls at waist hight, close to your left hand, I normally extend the wires of some of my machines and put them on a electronic box, that way I am in more comfortable position and quick reach of the controls, also a foot switch for on/off is good idea
Having drill press controls at a level below the table top seems to me like a scary idea. You often have parts that are much larger than the table, and you would be trying to bend down and reach the controls while reaching awkwardly under the part while still trying to reach the downfeed handle or hold something in place. It seems like a guaranteed recipe for an accident. Especially if some part gets away and starts spinning, and you have to try to reach under it to stop the machine. Having a drill press on-off switch that you operate left handed also seems dangerous, as you usually use your left hand to stabilize a part (since the quill handle is right handed), and you would have to let loose of the part to stop the machine.
I have the same drill press and converted it to a VFD drive about two years ago. I went with a two horsepower motor to maximize the low speed torque. I also kept the pulleys and can adjust those as well to get additional low speed torque. I want to know how you mounted the tachometer. Will that be in a future video? I went with four toggle switches and have a choice of 16 fixed speeds. But a variable speed option would be much better if I could read the speed. I 3D printed the front cover as well. Great project and great videos.
Very nice video. I admire the speed that you do the unscrewing in the start of the video :). Do you have any experience of painting the 3D printed part?
James, funny you are doing this - I've started the same project but never got around to finishing it. I have a Teco FM-50 VFD that will handle a 1HP motor, but have yet to find a 3 phase motor that will mount on the existing mount on the back of the drill press. I also am using a Jet JDP-17MF, but it's blue in color where yours looks cream colored. Have you sourced a motor yet? If so, would you share the information? I'd rather use the existing mounting plate on the back of the drill press vs manufacturing a new plate. Love your projects and vids. Keep up the nice work.
Nice work as usual! Would it be possible to print support material in ABS then the actual part in your chosen material? Also, could you print a brim of ABS with small lagging to allow the part to adhere, let it cool, then print the part?
Great Video James. Was wondering if you had shared the STL for this as i have the exact same drill press and want to enclose my VFD controls the same way minus the tach
Is that a 3PDT rotary switch or DPDT? I can’t find a suitable DPDT rotary switch to handle the volts and amps (130 VDC 20 amp for treadmill motor). Also, is your tachometer a Hall effect or something else? The eBay links are old. Thanks, Paul
Nice work ! I’m doing something similar to my dress press, but got carried away and am also reworking the table into an XY table with DROs. I have a video series over on my channel if you are interested. Good luck with your build !
As I was watching this a thought came to mind. Would it be worthwhile to make a collar and mount for the head that you took, or are taking, from the CNC mill to attach to the drill press column?
Wow. It was so Impressive I subscribed. I plan to share with my 14 year old grandson who is currently trying to learn Fusion 360. I would have liked to see you remove the braces to see just now hard it is.
Very impressive Fusion skills 💯, measured like a pro and didn’t give up Fantastic work right to the End. Didn’t even know there was a rib command ! Please tell me your secret to getting good at Fusion been over a year and progress is slow.. is it just time on the screen 🤷♂️ brilliant video 🙏🙏
Dr Pipe the best way to learn Fusion or any other CAD software....Creo, Solidworks, Inventor, or whatever... is to first learn and understand design fundamentals and parametric design philosophy. If you first understand the philosophy and best practices it will go a long way in helping you understand how to model your design and the best ways of doing so. I often tell engineering students and others interested in 3D design not to worry about the picks and clicks of a software, worry about understanding the philosophy first. If you do this, it doesn’t matter what CAD software you are using because you will have the knowledge and understanding to know what tool are available to you and all you just have to figure out where the buttons are in that particular software. There are many resources out there that can explain this in more depth
Jacob Caldwell thanks issue isn’t I know what I want to do but I don’t know what or where it is so yes in principle you are correct 🙏 unfortunately learning Tec or even reading is very difficult for some of us. As many we fumble along until it works as best we can. Half the time I think I don’t even know where I am let alone where the problem is 🤣
There is a reason why the original design had the stop button red and protruding way over the surface. The original design, though, had also the failure of being capable of being ON while not powered. I mean, one could turn it on and then go and plug the drill in and it would start. Since You are already doing this with a VFD, it should not be too hard to make the operating switches momentary so it would not be possible to start the drill simply by plugging it in. Also, a decent emergency stop or at least a stop button which You can operate even with Your nose if needed would have been a definite plus. The design itself looks neat and is probably also quite ergonomic. Also, I find it good that the drill press cannot be operated with gloves on Your hands. This, by the way, was the reason why the original design had the start button as it was - very hard to operate with gloves.
The switches in the new control panel are not momentary, but I have all of my VFDs programmed to refuse to start until the switches are returned to the off position. This is usually the default.
@@Clough42 That is a way to go. May I suggest to put some safety related content on Your videos. I know, it is a dull subject and it is really hard to tell about it in a way that does not make the watchers fall into coma. Nevertheless, there is just too many videos out there that teach how violate the very basic safety rules. I like Your videos, by the way :)
Hey James, I recently found your channel. Very nice! After all of the work you have put into your Grizzly lathe and mill, if you had it to start over again do you wish you'd picked a bigger or more capable model as a starting point? I live in Costa Rica so shipment here is both crazy expensive and a huge hassle. So if I can get my tools in and then upgrade it myself, the tax isn't quite so obnoxious. I've held off buying the mill and lathe but your success at tuning them up gives me enthusiasm. Just wanna make sure you were still thinking your strategy was the right way forward, or if say a model higher on the mill and/or the lathe would have been worth it.
Your Fusion 360 skills are impressive. I enjoy watching you build your projects very much. I know of no one that pays as much attention to detail as you. I am inspired. Thanks.
Glad you like them!
Mr. "Attention to detail" himself, is Robin Renzetti. If you aren't already acquainted with his online content, I can highly recommend it all. ruclips.net/user/ROBRENZ
Amen, amen and AMEN! James would probably be the example of: Matthew 5:48 Be ye therefore perfect, even as your Father which is in heaven is perfect.
It's interesting to watch. But Fusion is too fragile a tool to use for me. It is impressive that you know its failure points and gingerly avoid them.
Anyone watching how easy you make using the tool tries to do what you doing is in for a rude awakening.
As a fusion user, 3d printer, and electronics engineering student, I applaud you while standing up.
More fusion 360 videos please! Your instruction technique is AWESOME!
I think you can turn on scale sketch at initial dimension (or something like that) to prevent turning rough shapes inside out. It basically scales all the geometry the moment you add the first dimension so the basic shape is retained. Somewhere in settings. As always, love your videos!
This is brilliant! Thanks. The option is Preferences -> General -> Design -> Scale entire sketch at first dimension. I will leave that one on.
Clough42 well, my instructions weren't too precise but I'm glad you found it! It is a somewhat recent feature and sure is nice!
Hi, are you going so do a video on your drill press VFD conversion? Many thanks.
Have you got access to a flat bed scanner? If the part was placed on the bed with a scale it would give you the exact shape which could then be modeled in fusion etc. by referencing the image. The scale would ensure no lens distortion or scale factor image required. You could use your caliper and height gauge method to confirm some check measurements/ accuracy. Cool project!!
I was thinking about using a scanner all time while he was measuring
I do that all the time aside fromthe closefocus issue it imports to Solidedge with sub thousandth accuracy. for things like tool outlines etc. it is essential for time savings.
Hi from Australia, Thank you for all your knowledge that you share. "YOU ARE THE MAN" Im new to this and at 73 just started with 3d printer and cnc that Im modifying. Thanks for your help. Ive subscribed. Regards Merv
I added a VFD to a lathe. The lathe came with a joystick that handles forward/reverse and motor brake. I wired it to the VFD for forward/reverse and, using the same position (down) as brake. VFDs typically provide an emergency brake that uses DC braking which is fired by closing a contact. It stops the machine abruptly. It works extremely well on my lathe. I want to do this same modification to an identical drill press, but I plan on using the joystick, which should also answer the safety lurkers. Really delightful video & I subscribed immediately. Please keep it up. Idiots like me need this thoughtful guidance!
Love the video. My only worry is you've effectively removed the ability to hit the stop switch in an emergency! Or do you have an emergency off somewhere else?
A drill press accident that results in the inability to use both hands is unlikely, but if happened would likely prevent them from being able to press the emergency stop anyways, so turning a protruded knob to stop isn't more of an issue then pressing a recessed stop button...
Very cool! Cant wait for the follow up! Very interested to see how you get the tach set up
Millimeters! Frickin Millimeters! That is so refreshing for me as a European who watches lots of RUclips :)
MOST OF OUR EQUIPMENT ON THIS SIDE OF THE POND IS IN INCHES. THAT IS THE ONLY REASON WHY..
I just started messing around with f360 recently and boy did I realize how much I was missing just from watching you casually go through your design process
Great videos! I'm learning a lot, thanks.
Saw a few mentioning - take a picture and import - I came across a post
awhile ago that recommended using a flatbed scanner instead of a camera
because it eliminates the parallax. I've done it and it works well.
Another trick I used for copying an organic shape was to use large soldering wire (like used in plumbing for sweating copper pipes). I flattened the solder wire by rolling it between a flat table top and a piece of a 1x12 board (whatever you have that's flat). Then form the wire around the shape. Scan the formed wire on the flatbed scanner and import. Perfect fit. You can also convert the BMP (or whatever) to an SVG before importing to make things easier. Inkscape works for that (et al).
Did you ever finish the series? On your drill press. I only see the lathe VFD videos? If you didn’t I’d be interested in seeing these modifications
Nice job!!!
I like how you describe what you’re doing... is very easy to follow and learn...
Oh, THAT VFD.
I definitely came here thinking you were working with Vacuum Fluorescent Displays.
This is incredibly awesome. I have the same drill press and have upgraded it already to VFD. But this integration of the VFD with the drill press is Stellar!
Do you simply use this to turn on or off the power, so your VFD is always on, or do you have a secondary switch to cut power to it?
Do you have a link to the chuck you are using?
Love your channel and the quality of your work, the process of how you use Fusion 360 and the journey to the finished product. I have to say I lose a lot of sleep after watching your channel. I can't wait to get out to the shop and get to work.
Your videos are great. Such clear inatruction. I set up a vfd on myblathe a couple years ago, now wiring up a knee mill vfd. Your layout and parts lists have been a great help. THANKS
James, you never fail to inspire me so much farther than I thought possible. Every one of your videos are so packed with details, I actually need to take a break at the end and rethink my life choices 😂. I need to get busy...... Thank you ! Joel
Excellent job of explaining the process. I do have a suggestion however. While you are updating the drill press electricals, consider adding a foot-switch to control the spindle rotation. Drilling can turn into a "three hand" operation fairly quickly and being able to stop rotation by simply releasing the foot switch is a definite advantage.
just a suggestion... maybe add space for an independent control switch of the table work light... I'm just in awe of your Fusion 360 skills and project material sourcing abilities.👍😎👍
I wish i could use fusion so fluently, a great program but only as powerfull as the user. Its a great asset to have for any maker.
Your VFD videos gave me the much needed info to convert my mill to 3ph. Thanks!
I recently got a drill press for the shop and will be making a new control box with a Bud box, but your setup here is awesome and looks pro! I enjoyed the explanation as you went through Fusion360 designing the new plate.
6:05 Weapon grade TOT joke here (sorry James)
Your chuck is a self-tightening type. When you run it in reverse, it will become self-loosening.
You are correct.
Very nice bit of work there.
Nice work as always Sir and I appreciate you going through the design workflow
More Fusion 360 content. Construction lines and planes are black magic.
Great video. Will look forward to the remainder in the series of your drill press upgrade.
Did Clough42 make the second video? I've been looking for it....
Great Video ... yes indeed , those perfectionist tendencies will put neon lights around any defect you had an opportunity to correct and if you didn't do it then, it would gnawed away at you until you fixed it so good move and excellent result.
Absolutely fantastic
Haha, "If you weren't me". I pretty much am you... Excellent job!
Subbed. Love this video. But would also love to see the electronics and circuits in detail. Thanks
James,
Thank you for another well explained logical approach to functional design. I don't get to play with fusion enough to remember all the tricks but with your videos it is a great resource for me to go to to refresh the connections between the (rapidly diminishing) neurons.
Great video!
Really enjoyed it.
Your skills on CAD is impressive
Pretty cool! I see more and more 3d printed parts coming out in higher and higher resolution. So i might one day get one of those machines. 3d printed nylon might be tougher, so it might be worth it looking into it.
Greetings,
Jeff
Awesome video, think I'm able to learn more from you than Saunders or Lars at my current Fusion 360 skill level. Also, it is comforting to see someone as OCD as me, I can fabricate a part that will function well but, will continue to spend more hours on it to make sure it looks good as well.
It's a burden we share. :)
very good video..thanks for your time
Awesome video! Watching you run Fusion always teaches me something new. Your discussion about 3D printing challenges was also very helpful. BTW, I don't think your keyless chuck will work well in reverse, but you can always swap something else in for that purpose.
I power tap with a keyless chuck all the time.
That was great, always pick up a few tips from your videos due to the detail you use. Thanks for sharing
Great video. Planning this upgrade when I change my grinder motor out
Am I missing the motor and VFD video? I’ve looked for it but don’t see it. I just came into one of these Jet drill presses and would like to do this upgrade. What motor and VFD did you use?
Guessing that this was NOT your first rodeo with Fusion 360 :-)
Looks great
Excellent video, as always. I picked up some good tips. I was surprised that you didn't modify the design more for 3d printing while still in Fusion. I would probably have put 45° ribs under those mounting hole bezels so they didn't need support. I've also had a lot of success with making a disposable support rib that stops 0.2mm below an overhanging face. That gives the printer enough support to air bridge quite long distances, but snaps off at a touch.
Yip, I was thinking the exact same thing about the 45 degree ribs, I try to design to avoid using support material if possible.
A technique that i have used previously for getting dimensions on complex parts, is to use the a conventional scanner to scan the flat face, along with a ruler for scale. Image editing (GIMP, Inkscape etc.) or even import the picture directly into Fusion360 and scale appropriately. My experience is that flat faces can be modelled to a tolerance of 0.1mm with ease.
Very cool. I've been tempted to get one of the Nova Voyager presses, but a conversion is a really cool idea. My main attraction to direct is mounting the motor closer to the spindle, because a large swing drill press is insanely deep and takes a ton of space. The Nova has a big swing but the column is the furthest point at the back and I love that.
Kirby Weldon auto tapping is amazing.
Wow, I just watched an excellent introduction to fusion 360. I gotta learn this software.
very nice, but where's the emergency stop button
Beautiful controls! For my stepper driver I need all that, but I need a "low/medium/high" speed range switch as well as the speed knob :) I'm working on that idea right now...
Great job condensing the modeling section of the video. Have you ever thought about adding a time lapse of the printing?
Hi James, big fan. There are hundreds of modeling how-to videos on the net but I want to learn this skill from a machinist's vantage point however you go too fast, can you do a fusion how-to for dummies series? I personally need to make boxes like this often. (FYI I have watched your playlist 3 times)
Very nice! I envy your F360 skills!
There is a specialty super low warp PETg that prints at a lower temperature than most, can print at 220-230, and it doesn't require a brim, and has much lower warp forces than eSun/Inland -- and I also confirmed it's PETg with solvent that will only work on PETg. Totalpack sells it, not sure who makes it. I've made very large boxes and with a PEI bed at 75c, in an open air printer, no warp -- flat as a concrete slab.
Instead of going around and selecting each line as you did at 18:30, you can double click the line, and Fusion will pick all the lines in that perimeter for you. ❤
Awesome. Your Fusion 360 skills is awesome. How long have you worked with the software?
First time visiting. I like what I've seen so far. You have another subscriber 👍 A fair bit of tool enjoy though ... lol.
Intresting print. Thanks for sharing
excellent video, a complete lesson very well explained. keep it up
Nice work, but you should have put come colors in for the lettering, IMHO. Jet machines rock, BTW.
That is very good work. Enjoyed very much. Keep at this.
As much parts as you machine out of aluminum, it would be great for you to venture into DIY anodizing. I'ts not that tough to get really good results, and of course you don't have to dye the part. You can just anodize and it pretty much renders the Al part scratch proof. I've had great results.
I've researched it, and basically I don't want to store the acid.
James your a man of many talents. Just learning to draw in inventor and watching you work in fusion360 makes me a little jealous because you just draw with no hesitation. I wondering what was causing that curvature was it a coefficient of shrinkage in the material. I'm a little new to 3D printing and doing wide prints like 10-11 inches wide they tend to curve up wards and pull off the bed. The curvature maybe due to sagging what are your thoughts.
Hmmm, you commented in the vid that you would follow-up with installation of the various pieces ... that was some time ago. I'm replacing the motor on my old camel back drill press with VFD for speed control, removing the mag starter, etc. Was there a follow-up? Cause I sure can't find it!
As always, though, your vids are a treasure!
The project is still in progress. The parts are still sitting here waiting.
@@Clough42 Thank you, sir, your videos are always top notch. I look forward to each new chapter.
Nice project. You do give up the taper down to the chuck - If you reduced the depth would that not be a solution to the printing issues and the view to the chuck/ tool?
Just found you channel... subscribed! Excellent!
Dude mad skills👌 in my opinion is better to have the controls at waist hight, close to your left hand, I normally extend the wires of some of my machines and put them on a electronic box, that way I am in more comfortable position and quick reach of the controls, also a foot switch for on/off is good idea
Having drill press controls at a level below the table top seems to me like a scary idea. You often have parts that are much larger than the table, and you would be trying to bend down and reach the controls while reaching awkwardly under the part while still trying to reach the downfeed handle or hold something in place. It seems like a guaranteed recipe for an accident. Especially if some part gets away and starts spinning, and you have to try to reach under it to stop the machine. Having a drill press on-off switch that you operate left handed also seems dangerous, as you usually use your left hand to stabilize a part (since the quill handle is right handed), and you would have to let loose of the part to stop the machine.
Nice part. Looks OEM! I haven't had much luck getting keyless chucks to work in reverse though. Won't it just loosen and release the tool?
I like to see how the Rev counter works.
This is a great video. Could you share what motor and vfd you went with? Thanks.
I have the same drill press and converted it to a VFD drive about two years ago. I went with a two horsepower motor to maximize the low speed torque. I also kept the pulleys and can adjust those as well to get additional low speed torque. I want to know how you mounted the tachometer. Will that be in a future video? I went with four toggle switches and have a choice of 16 fixed speeds. But a variable speed option would be much better if I could read the speed. I 3D printed the front cover as well. Great project and great videos.
Hmmm, how long before project creep sets in and you decide to mimic the Nova Voyager control capabilities? Looking forward to this project.
Now that you left this comment and I found out that machine exists, probably very soon. :)
@@Clough42 Yes! James - your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to reverse engineer a Nova Voyager controller. R-Pi, or something else?
@@MurrayDawson ESP32, lower cost, enough processing power.
Very nice video. I admire the speed that you do the unscrewing in the start of the video :). Do you have any experience of painting the 3D printed part?
Did you make the final conclusion video to this project? I can't find it.
This vfd work for any drill press? (Not the Cad, just the "mechanism ")
how about the wiring?
James, funny you are doing this - I've started the same project but never got around to finishing it. I have a Teco FM-50 VFD that will handle a 1HP motor, but have yet to find a 3 phase motor that will mount on the existing mount on the back of the drill press. I also am using a Jet JDP-17MF, but it's blue in color where yours looks cream colored. Have you sourced a motor yet? If so, would you share the information? I'd rather use the existing mounting plate on the back of the drill press vs manufacturing a new plate. Love your projects and vids. Keep up the nice work.
Nice work as usual! Would it be possible to print support material in ABS then the actual part in your chosen material? Also, could you print a brim of ABS with small lagging to allow the part to adhere, let it cool, then print the part?
Great Video James. Was wondering if you had shared the STL for this as i have the exact same drill press and want to enclose my VFD controls the same way minus the tach
Is that a 3PDT rotary switch or DPDT? I can’t find a suitable DPDT rotary switch to handle the volts and amps (130 VDC 20 amp for treadmill motor).
Also, is your tachometer a Hall effect or something else? The eBay links are old.
Thanks,
Paul
I concur. Still a great video. Stay safe.
Hi James, for those measurements, what not place on piece of paper and trace the outlines. Then work further from there. Just asking.
Nice work ! I’m doing something similar to my dress press, but got carried away and am also reworking the table into an XY table with DROs. I have a video series over on my channel if you are interested. Good luck with your build !
put the part on a flat bed scanner and get most dimensions without measuring
As I was watching this a thought came to mind. Would it be worthwhile to make a collar and mount for the head that you took, or are taking, from the CNC mill to attach to the drill press column?
Very nice !
Curious how you did the embedded letters on the switch panel?
Wow. It was so Impressive I subscribed. I plan to share with my 14 year old grandson who is currently trying to learn Fusion 360. I would have liked to see you remove the braces to see just now hard it is.
If I had shown that on the channel, all you would see down here would be comments about prying with the wrong tool or cutting toward myself. :)
James would a flux vector drive provide more torque at low speeds vs a VFD. Your project has got me doing a lot of reading. But I'm not sure.
Very impressive Fusion skills 💯, measured like a pro and didn’t give up Fantastic work right to the End. Didn’t even know there was a rib command ! Please tell me your secret to getting good at Fusion been over a year and progress is slow.. is it just time on the screen 🤷♂️ brilliant video 🙏🙏
Dr Pipe the best way to learn Fusion or any other CAD software....Creo, Solidworks, Inventor, or whatever... is to first learn and understand design fundamentals and parametric design philosophy. If you first understand the philosophy and best practices it will go a long way in helping you understand how to model your design and the best ways of doing so. I often tell engineering students and others interested in 3D design not to worry about the picks and clicks of a software, worry about understanding the philosophy first. If you do this, it doesn’t matter what CAD software you are using because you will have the knowledge and understanding to know what tool are available to you and all you just have to figure out where the buttons are in that particular software. There are many resources out there that can explain this in more depth
Jacob Caldwell thanks issue isn’t I know what I want to do but I don’t know what or where it is so yes in principle you are correct 🙏 unfortunately learning Tec or even reading is very difficult for some of us. As many we fumble along until it works as best we can. Half the time I think I don’t even know where I am let alone where the problem is 🤣
Very nice! I have the same issue with corners of big prints lifting in ABS. What is the size of your granite plate? Ciao, Marco.
Very interesting and good video. I wish I could understand and use Fusion 360 like you. I have a hard time making a box!! LOL!
It's just practice. It also helps to watch videos by other people who take time to explain what they're doing.
Are you planning to do a follow up to this project?
There is a reason why the original design had the stop button red and protruding way over the surface. The original design, though, had also the failure of being capable of being ON while not powered. I mean, one could turn it on and then go and plug the drill in and it would start.
Since You are already doing this with a VFD, it should not be too hard to make the operating switches momentary so it would not be possible to start the drill simply by plugging it in. Also, a decent emergency stop or at least a stop button which You can operate even with Your nose if needed would have been a definite plus.
The design itself looks neat and is probably also quite ergonomic. Also, I find it good that the drill press cannot be operated with gloves on Your hands. This, by the way, was the reason why the original design had the start button as it was - very hard to operate with gloves.
The switches in the new control panel are not momentary, but I have all of my VFDs programmed to refuse to start until the switches are returned to the off position. This is usually the default.
@@Clough42 That is a way to go. May I suggest to put some safety related content on Your videos. I know, it is a dull subject and it is really hard to tell about it in a way that does not make the watchers fall into coma. Nevertheless, there is just too many videos out there that teach how violate the very basic safety rules.
I like Your videos, by the way :)
Hey James, I recently found your channel. Very nice! After all of the work you have put into your Grizzly lathe and mill, if you had it to start over again do you wish you'd picked a bigger or more capable model as a starting point? I live in Costa Rica so shipment here is both crazy expensive and a huge hassle. So if I can get my tools in and then upgrade it myself, the tax isn't quite so obnoxious. I've held off buying the mill and lathe but your success at tuning them up gives me enthusiasm. Just wanna make sure you were still thinking your strategy was the right way forward, or if say a model higher on the mill and/or the lathe would have been worth it.
Very neat!
Also it worth have a kill switch that you can mash quickly in case of emergency, on the side of the new cover?
What motor did you choose for this project? I may try to do the same thing on my Delta drill press.
Hi James great conversion, what motor did you use please
good video! learned a lot!
Is there a follow up for this video James?