Here in East Texas we still use the old tanks because the water mixing with the air helps reduce sulphur smell....Hydro pneumatic tanks are one of the oldest types of pressure tanks. They are only found in areas where water quality requires them. Water and air are mixed together in a hydro pneumatic tank to reduce the "rotten egg" smell that sulphur bacteria and hydrogen sulphide gas in the water can cause.
Pressure tank or tanks are not a good way to provide storage in the case of a low producing well. Pressure tanks do not generally store enough water to provide the required reserve needed to continue to supply sustained water usage, and once the water in the tank has been used, supply is provided from the pump alone. This often causes the system pressure to drop dramatically while the pump is trying to keep up. In some cases, the well level can drop below the pump inlet and at which time, the system supply pressure can drop to zero which results in a loss of water service to the home. If no well pump protection is installed, the pump can continue to run with no water running through it, which could damage the pump. A separate pumping system installed at or in a reservoir used to provide system pressure filled by the water source pump is the best way to smooth out peak demand flows is the case of a low producing well situation.
R.C. Worst & Co: can you answer a question? When on a municipal system at the "end of their line" which has very low pressure / volume - what do you suggest for the home owner? Doing laundry takes forever since the machine doesn't wash until the drum has enough water in it. Plus, getting a sink full of water to do dishes takes "forever" (I know it just seems that way). Found a low flow/pressure shower head, so at least I can shower. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
@@kfakabluesouplady6911If you still wanted any advice(I realize this is an older comment), municipalities are required to provide a set pressure to your home, regardless of where you are in there lines. This would be a legal issue if they are refusing/excusing this problem. Outside of that, there are in line pressure pumps for low pressure homes. They are not super cheap, but they kick on when water demand exists and can be set to your desired house pressure. There are also smaller and cheaper ones you can put in right at fixtures such as your washer or sink. Always be cautious adding pressure to a home, just in case the plumbing cannot handle it(from age or wear). Hope that helps!
We purchased a home 3+ years ago and with the house came a water well. The well was not connected to anything. I installed a sprinkler system in the front yard with 3 zones and I only use the well for watering the lawn. After a few months here I had a new pressure gauge and switch installed and the well company said the well was putting out about 18 gallons per minute. The switch was set at 30/60. When I used 1 zone the pump would come on at 30 and shut off at 60. Drop to 30 come on again and off at 60. However, when I turned on all 3 zones the pressure would stabilize at any pressure between 30 and 60. Which means, I think, I needed to put out more volume of water to keep everything working. My existing tank is fiberglass and when we moved in it had a pinhole in the top head. I was told to get a repair kit and patch the hole. I did. Now the pinhole is leaking water again and I am going to patch it. I also noticed that when I turned the sprinklers off a few days ago, the gauge shutoff at 50 and on about 90. I have not checked the pressure in the tank yet. I had about 25psi in it at one time. Any suggestions?
Joe, when all three zones are on, the reason the pressure gauge never gets up to 60 is that the water being discharged through your sprinklers is at a volume equal to what is being pumped for the given pressure in your system (lets say it leveled out at 45 psi). Because you are pumping through sprinklers which induce pressure in the line, this would likely be the case forever. It just means the tank can never get full and pressurized to 60psi when all three zones are on. Are you sure of the other numbers, I assume it shut off at 90 and on at 50. I am not sure why it would change from the settings, or its simply a malfunctioning gauge. A pressure tank with a leak won't maintain pressure, it has to be a sealed system.
I purchased a home in July with a water system I am not familiar with. I have spent a considerable amount of time reviewing and researching how this system works. The system contains: pressure tank, (2) retention tanks, filter tank and a solution tank (with it's own pump) The actual well has a submersible pump that controls the flow to the house. My problem is that we periodically run out of water and I cannot contribute the loss to over use or climatic conditions. In other words, we run out of water regardless if there has been several days of rain and little usage or vise-a versa. The system does correct itself overnight if left alone. I have been shutting off the breaker for approximately 2 hours and normally that will do the same as 8- 10 hours without doing so. Is this coincidence or is this possibly a pressure switch issue? I was thinking that lowering the limit would cause the pump to cut in earlier and not interrupt the flow, assuming the pressure tank is working correctly. Am I on the right track or am I completely off? Any suggestions or clarification would be greatly appreciated.
Dean, the fact that you have two retention tanks suggests you have a low capacity well, a typical system with a well providing an adequate water supply would not have those additional tanks. Having rain likely has nothing to do with the amount of water in your well, depending on the type, depth, and construction of your well. In all likelihood, rainfall does not quickly recharge the aquifer your well is getting water from, or you would have more water available. When your well pump is providing water to your system, it is filling the retention tanks and the pressure tank at times when you aren't using water. The amount of water you have available is the total stored in these tanks. The most likely problem is you are using more water than that, and because your well likely has a low-yield, maybe only a gallon a minute (or I have seen less), you can't rely on the well to keep up. One solution would be more storage, in other words, add another or larger tank to store more water than the capacity of your current system. The tanks fill up slowly overnight, as you stated, but the pump stops once they are full. I talked to a well owner who has a house in the Rocky Mountains that has a well that only pumps about 1/2 gallon per minute. His solution was to put in a 3000 gallon tank, the well pumps into the tank, and then there is a 2nd pump to pump into the house from there that runs based on the switch on the pressure tank. Basically, the well pump runs continuously, except when they are not there for a few days and it actually can fill up the tank. It gives them enough storage that they typically don't have supply interruptions like you are experiencing. Feel free to contact us at the Private Well Class, info@privatewellclass.org.
Is having a higher cut on cut off setting put more strain on your well pump ? My talk pressure is at 28 but I didn’t have the correct wrench so l left the cut on cut off at 40 -60 , I added some filters and I don’t know why the cut on cut of changed
In cases of a steel tank without a bladder, why not just drain the tank so that that it is 1/4 or 1/3 full of water, then add compressed air to 30 psi and then turn on the water pump? What is the advantage of draining the whole tank??? Any comments from anyone.
You cannot see into a "steel" tank. The easy way to "reset" the system is to drain the tank, shut off the drain, add air to just below cut/on pressure setting, then start the system. You generally want the water level very low to begin since it will naturally rise on its own over time. Saves resetting as often.
Hi i would like some help with my water pump .....when i am not using water it stays pressured as normal but as soon as i start using water it lose all the pressure in a sec or two the gage runs back down to zero an stop pumping any water when i turn off all the valves on the output end of the pump it bills back up the pressure an turns off as normal....can some tell me what is wrong please????
You need some air put in the tank, (or just maybe you have to much air in the tank,.... No in your case I'm sure it needs air in the tank) & do it fast, or you'll wear out your pump & etc. The other thing that could be wrong (but I doubt it) is that your turn on/off presser switch is set wrong. If you have a bladder tank, keep in mind that there is a chance the bladder could be broke, or the tank is leaking air out of the air filled part of the tank, maybe just the valve stem is leaking. Get help if needed, but don't wait. :)
Sir i check our water pressure tank ,instead air is coming on the top portion,water was coming once i press this air spindle,what would be the effect of this on our system?
If water comes out the schrader valve (air valve) then you need a LOT more air. If you have a "bladder" tank, it also means the bladder has ruptured. That effectively converts it to the first of the three systems shown in the video - air will slowly decrease because of absorption into water and you will periodically need to add more air (until you get a new bladder or replace the tank). -- That will also cause your pump to cycle on and off more rapidly - even to the point of cycling several times every second if the tank is compeletely fill of water (has no air in it).
GREAT and very helpful video. NEED HELP PLEASE I am sure that you would tell me, to call a professional. But, every penny counts when your out of a job. Just recently, I went out to my well house that also houses our water softener. To add salt. To my surprise. I found that there was standing water in in the room. After an hour of moping and searching. I discovered my leak is coming from somewhere inside the metal collar on the bottom of my pressure tank. The ground is wet and theres not much room to move around inside this room. I did some research and found this tank shipping weight is a 103 lbs, and its a 81 Gallon. Model. I am assuming the water inside contrIbutes the weight that I can't even budge it all. Maneuvering is tight. So I don't have a visual of the "leak" I would like to do this repair myself and can do it if its just a case of removing and repairing a failed piece of metal pipe or PVC pipe. Maybe a joint or elbow? The tank was made by AMTROL for the Baron Group LLC It was installed new, 12 year ago. and plumbed to the existing plumbing (est. 25 yrs) Water pressure to house does not seem to be affected. So, based on your expertise and past experiences. How likely could this be the cause for my problem or could there be something else that I am not taking in to account or considering for this leak to occur?
AmionArock, we, at the Private Well Class, do not have the experience to provide advice on advanced topics like how to replace parts on your pressure tank. I'm sorry we can't help, and wish you the best in finding an answer, but in some cases a professional ends up being the best and most cost effective approach. I see on the right side of my RUclips page a bunch of videos on basic information about your pressure tank, you could start there. Regardless if you find what you are looking for, it will help you understand how your tank works, and the components, etc.
Here in East Texas we still use the old tanks because the water mixing with the air helps reduce sulphur smell....Hydro pneumatic tanks are one of the oldest types of pressure tanks. They are only found in areas where water quality requires them. Water and air are mixed together in a hydro pneumatic tank to reduce the "rotten egg" smell that sulphur bacteria and hydrogen sulphide gas in the water can cause.
Wow! Thanks for explaining waterlogged tank issues - I was wondering why you need the diaphragm.
Pressure tank or tanks are not a good way to provide storage in the case of a low producing well. Pressure tanks do not generally store enough water to provide the required reserve needed to continue to supply sustained water usage, and once the water in the tank has been used, supply is provided from the pump alone. This often causes the system pressure to drop dramatically while the pump is trying to keep up. In some cases, the well level can drop below the pump inlet and at which time, the system supply pressure can drop to zero which results in a loss of water service to the home. If no well pump protection is installed, the pump can continue to run with no water running through it, which could damage the pump. A separate pumping system installed at or in a reservoir used to provide system pressure filled by the water source pump is the best way to smooth out peak demand flows is the case of a low producing well situation.
R.C. Worst & Co: can you answer a question? When on a municipal system at the "end of their line" which has very low pressure / volume - what do you suggest for the home owner? Doing laundry takes forever since the machine doesn't wash until the drum has enough water in it. Plus, getting a sink full of water to do dishes takes "forever" (I know it just seems that way). Found a low flow/pressure shower head, so at least I can shower.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
@@kfakabluesouplady6911If you still wanted any advice(I realize this is an older comment), municipalities are required to provide a set pressure to your home, regardless of where you are in there lines. This would be a legal issue if they are refusing/excusing this problem.
Outside of that, there are in line pressure pumps for low pressure homes. They are not super cheap, but they kick on when water demand exists and can be set to your desired house pressure. There are also smaller and cheaper ones you can put in right at fixtures such as your washer or sink. Always be cautious adding pressure to a home, just in case the plumbing cannot handle it(from age or wear). Hope that helps!
We purchased a home 3+ years ago and with the house came a water well. The well was not connected to anything. I installed a sprinkler system in the front yard with 3 zones and I only use the well for watering the lawn. After a few months here I had a new pressure gauge and switch installed and the well company said the well was putting out about 18 gallons per minute. The switch was set at 30/60. When I used 1 zone the pump would come on at 30 and shut off at 60. Drop to 30 come on again and off at 60. However, when I turned on all 3 zones the pressure would stabilize at any pressure between 30 and 60. Which means, I think, I needed to put out more volume of water to keep everything working. My existing tank is fiberglass and when we moved in it had a pinhole in the top head. I was told to get a repair kit and patch the hole. I did. Now the pinhole is leaking water again and I am going to patch it. I also noticed that when I turned the sprinklers off a few days ago, the gauge shutoff at 50 and on about 90. I have not checked the pressure in the tank yet. I had about 25psi in it at one time. Any suggestions?
Joe, when all three zones are on, the reason the pressure gauge never gets up to 60 is that the water being discharged through your sprinklers is at a volume equal to what is being pumped for the given pressure in your system (lets say it leveled out at 45 psi). Because you are pumping through sprinklers which induce pressure in the line, this would likely be the case forever. It just means the tank can never get full and pressurized to 60psi when all three zones are on. Are you sure of the other numbers, I assume it shut off at 90 and on at 50. I am not sure why it would change from the settings, or its simply a malfunctioning gauge. A pressure tank with a leak won't maintain pressure, it has to be a sealed system.
I purchased a home in July with a water system I am not familiar with. I have spent a considerable amount of time reviewing and researching how this system works. The system contains: pressure tank, (2) retention tanks, filter tank and a solution tank (with it's own pump) The actual well has a submersible pump that controls the flow to the house. My problem is that we periodically run out of water and I cannot contribute the loss to over use or climatic conditions. In other words, we run out of water regardless if there has been several days of rain and little usage or vise-a versa. The system does correct itself overnight if left alone. I have been shutting off the breaker for approximately 2 hours and normally that will do the same as 8- 10 hours without doing so. Is this coincidence or is this possibly a pressure switch issue? I was thinking that lowering the limit would cause the pump to cut in earlier and not interrupt the flow, assuming the pressure tank is working correctly. Am I on the right track or am I completely off? Any suggestions or clarification would be greatly appreciated.
Dean, the fact that you have two retention tanks suggests you have a low capacity well, a typical system with a well providing an adequate water supply would not have those additional tanks. Having rain likely has nothing to do with the amount of water in your well, depending on the type, depth, and construction of your well. In all likelihood, rainfall does not quickly recharge the aquifer your well is getting water from, or you would have more water available.
When your well pump is providing water to your system, it is filling the retention tanks and the pressure tank at times when you aren't using water. The amount of water you have available is the total stored in these tanks. The most likely problem is you are using more water than that, and because your well likely has a low-yield, maybe only a gallon a minute (or I have seen less), you can't rely on the well to keep up. One solution would be more storage, in other words, add another or larger tank to store more water than the capacity of your current system. The tanks fill up slowly overnight, as you stated, but the pump stops once they are full.
I talked to a well owner who has a house in the Rocky Mountains that has a well that only pumps about 1/2 gallon per minute. His solution was to put in a 3000 gallon tank, the well pumps into the tank, and then there is a 2nd pump to pump into the house from there that runs based on the switch on the pressure tank. Basically, the well pump runs continuously, except when they are not there for a few days and it actually can fill up the tank. It gives them enough storage that they typically don't have supply interruptions like you are experiencing.
Feel free to contact us at the Private Well Class, info@privatewellclass.org.
Is there not a check valve somewhere on the line from the well to the tank to prevent the pressure tank from pressuring the well itself?
There almost always is, code requires it in most areas. Usually found just before the tank, after the well pump.
Is it okay to isolate or turn off the bladder tank valve after the start-up?
Is having a higher cut on cut off setting put more strain on your well pump ? My talk pressure is at 28 but I didn’t have the correct wrench so l left the cut on cut off at 40 -60 , I added some filters and I don’t know why the cut on cut of changed
Very informative. Thank you for posting.
Our pressure tank empty water while blockout, it gets indents. Is it okay to use?
i would like to know the one that i need
Me to
What if you get air coming out the fixtures?
Thanks for the video!
Can I put my pressure well tank in the garage about 50-60 feet from the well? If yes How?
Thanks
what about cleaning the pressure tank of sediment
What kind of water pump is used for a 26gal water worker tank? I can't find any specifications. Is there a specific PSI or HP. Thank you in advance!
This particular question in beyond our expertise. You should contact a contractor to better help you with this situation. Thank you!
Very amazing content
In cases of a steel tank without a bladder, why not just drain the tank so that that it is 1/4 or 1/3 full of water, then add compressed air to 30 psi and then turn on the water pump? What is the advantage of draining the whole tank??? Any comments from anyone.
You cannot see into a "steel" tank. The easy way to "reset" the system is to drain the tank, shut off the drain, add air to just below cut/on pressure setting, then start the system.
You generally want the water level very low to begin since it will naturally rise on its own over time. Saves resetting as often.
Hi i would like some help with my water pump .....when i am not using water it stays pressured as normal but as soon as i start using water it lose all the pressure in a sec or two the gage runs back down to zero an stop pumping any water when i turn off all the valves on the output end of the pump it bills back up the pressure an turns off as normal....can some tell me what is wrong please????
You need some air put in the tank, (or just maybe you have to much air in the tank,.... No in your case I'm sure it needs air in the tank) & do it fast, or you'll wear out your pump & etc. The other thing that could be wrong (but I doubt it) is that your turn on/off presser switch is set wrong. If you have a bladder tank, keep in mind that there is a chance the bladder could be broke, or the tank is leaking air out of the air filled part of the tank, maybe just the valve stem is leaking. Get help if needed, but don't wait. :)
Realy helpful
Sir i check our water pressure tank ,instead air is coming on the top portion,water was coming once i press this air spindle,what would be the effect of this on our system?
If water comes out the schrader valve (air valve) then you need a LOT more air.
If you have a "bladder" tank, it also means the bladder has ruptured.
That effectively converts it to the first of the three systems shown in the video - air will slowly decrease because of absorption into water and you will periodically need to add more air (until you get a new bladder or replace the tank).
--
That will also cause your pump to cycle on and off more rapidly - even to the point of cycling several times every second if the tank is compeletely fill of water (has no air in it).
Awesome Video!!
Nice info.
GREAT and very helpful video. NEED HELP PLEASE
I am sure that you would tell me, to call a professional. But, every penny counts when your out of a job. Just recently, I went out to my well house that also houses our water softener.
To add salt. To my surprise. I found that there was standing water in in the room.
After an hour of moping and searching. I discovered my leak is coming from somewhere inside the metal collar on the bottom of my pressure tank. The ground is wet and theres not much room to move around inside this room. I did some research and found this tank shipping weight is a 103 lbs, and its a 81 Gallon. Model. I am assuming the water inside contrIbutes the weight that I can't even budge it all. Maneuvering is tight. So I don't have a visual of the "leak"
I would like to do this repair myself and can do it if its just a case of removing and repairing a failed piece of metal pipe or PVC pipe. Maybe a joint or elbow? The tank was made by AMTROL for the Baron Group LLC It was installed new, 12 year ago. and plumbed to the existing plumbing (est. 25 yrs)
Water pressure to house does not seem to be affected.
So, based on your expertise and past experiences. How likely could this be the cause for my problem or could there be something else that I am not taking in to account or considering for this leak to occur?
AmionArock, we, at the Private Well Class, do not have the experience to provide advice on advanced topics like how to replace parts on your pressure tank. I'm sorry we can't help, and wish you the best in finding an answer, but in some cases a professional ends up being the best and most cost effective approach. I see on the right side of my RUclips page a bunch of videos on basic information about your pressure tank, you could start there. Regardless if you find what you are looking for, it will help you understand how your tank works, and the components, etc.
I'm going to home depot
Dont - contact a licenced well technician
compression of air
Abhijit
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Vishwajit Kumar 😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆😆