Ted, I am Chris' uncle and one of the owners of our company. I have been following your videos for a long time and a few years back, pulled the trigger (so to speak) on an FX Impact and Element scope. Your videos are always top notch. What a small world. If you're ever in N. Idaho, please drop by.
Yes it is the ONLY thing RUclips is good for.. The Shadow banning is out of control. Any and all information regarding politics is convoluted and skewed (Google as well) if you try to find any negative although truthful information on the Democratic nominees you won't find it. It's really bad now bc of the upcoming election. A lot of conservatives are going over to rumble and X bc there's way less censoring of conservative speech.✌🏼🇺🇸💪🏼
It’s 2024 and I’m a contractor/homeowner. This video was very simple, easy to understand, and gave all the relevant information in a well constructed manner. I’ll be turning to your channel for answers first from now on. Much appreciated.
Thank you! My tank has never been checked for pressure, had less than 3lbs. Charged it to 38psi and whole system is much better. No wonder showers were slow...
Thanks for making this video! I installed a large accumulator in my motorhome last year to keep the pump from cycling all the time. I set the pressure, but did not realize that the tank should be empty first! This turned out to be a game-changer because I had it at 36 PSI when full and when it was empty it read 4 PSI - so, wrong, wrong, and wrong. It's now set correctly. Without this video, I would never have known. Thanks very much!
Unless they quit selling them,or ordering, you don't throw your tank away,easy repair,empty and take tank out, turn upside down, take all nuts off, take out bladder, put in new one, install and set pressure, I keep one on hand, have had a well for 50 years. , Roll up bladder like a newspaper,easy to replace.
Thanks for the information! What does it mean when the tank is completely drained with power and water off, but the pressure gauge still reads 40psi? Can't find a video that addresses this...
@@bnellaniyah Are you referring to the water pressure gauge or the air pressure gauge? If the latter, it means your tank is charged to 40psi. If you have a 40/60 switch, you should let 2psi out of the tank so the gauge reads 38psi.
Thank you. Just replace the pressure gauge and checked the pressure in the tank. It was 11 psi. Added air to 38 psi for our 40/60 gauge and it worked. Thank you so very much!
Over the years I have been an astute observer of a person's knowledge and intelligence as it is reflected in his/her use of language. This guy is very very smart and his description of the ins and outs of a pressure tank is organized, sequential, easily understandable, and demystifies what a novice like me needs to do to replace or update the air pressure in a typical tank. I'm definitely subscribing to his site!!!
Thank you! A great video: clear, succinct, logical and structured. I have been able to fix my house water pump system and all is well again. Saved me the usual "rip out and replace" solution, so something good has been done as well for sustainability and avoiding more landfill. Super! I am grateful.
Finally ! To the point and easy to follow. Thanks ! My well pump was cycling on and off very quickly. Turns out the pressure in my pressure tank was almost zero. (Apparently being in a basement with huge temperature swings can cause this?) I added the correct air pressure, and all is working properly now. Thanks again !! Was afraid I needed a new pressure tank.
You need to check the tank pressure once a year, maybe twice a year if your pressure tank is the old style galvanized tank without a diaphragm. If the water and air aren't separated by a barrier of some sort, then the air mixes with the water over time and you lose the air. Diaphragm tanks just lose the air over time, nothing is completely air tight forever. Checking the air and maintaining the correct pressure ensures the pump doesn't short cycle like yours was doing. That can burn your pump up if you let it go for very long. Pumping water actually cools a submersible pump, so the longer it runs after it turns on, the better it is for the pump motor. My well guy told me that, and he said when watering the yard or garden that it's better to run two sprinklers instead of one, that way the pump runs for a very long time before it turns off, if at all.
This guy is awesome ! extremely well explained! There are many people that are great at their jobs but there aren't many that have the ability to teach it. This guys definitely has that gift. Thanks for the vid
Yes. I have been listening to his videos. He knows what he's talking about you takes his time to explain it to you and details than enough that I can understand. I do have one question though. My prompt was almost completely dry before it kicks in again. Is that because of the pressure
Thank you, after replacing my pressure gauge it was cutting off at 60 psi and I thought it was wrong. My old one was going to 45 and leaking. I assumed it was wrong then realized the old gauge was just bad. I am a do-it-yourself and have no real knowledge of plumbing. I appreciate you-tubers that post this information. Saved me tons of money.
Thank you for the help! The short cycling was due to low bladder pressure. Turning off the well breaker and draining water with a faucet allowed me to get a good pressure reading. Added the air to raise the psi to the proper level has worked!!!
Great video, best one I’ve seen so far, and so far I have watched about a dozen or more. There was no extra added BS of useless info, just straight to the point. I can’t express enough how that sidebar graphic helped. I’m a visual person and it really put it into perspective how the range of both of the adjustments work and the result of adjusting them in relation to each other. It was a very nice touch that made all the difference for me. Now I feel that I completely know how this unit works. My intended use for this unit is to incorporate it inline with my Aquaponic system, Koi ponds and swimming pool. I will be using this unit to help keep pressure to a garden hose for watering plants around the yard (with the help of an 1/2hp 1500gph external water transfer pump) with the water source coming from either the Swimming pool, Koi ponds or Aquaponic system. I’m hoping to be able to continuously have adequate pressure (40 to 60psi) down the line of the hose and yet have the pump turn off whenever the garden nozzle is temporarily of shut off. It’ll make having to carry 5 gallon buckets around the property a thing of the past hopefully. Thanks again.
Thank you so look much!!! That was such a quick, easy fix to our ongoing issue. We were told we needed a new tank. The pressure was at about 54 psi, brought it down to 38 and now everything is running better than ever!! Thank you again!
We just bought our house and I have been having pressure issues and luckily I found your channel. Thanks to this very informative video I was able to quickly identify that we have a 30/50 psi switch. I verified that it was still set to 30/50, drained the tank and found that it was at 48 psi!! It's now set at 28 psi, the water level in the tank has more than doubled (based on the outside condensation level on the tank) and the pressure has been much more consistent. Thanks again and I will be checking out more of your videos.
I've no idea how many months my pump has been short cycling and the potential damage that's been done to it. How often is anyone in the basement while the water is being used upstairs! Anyway...when I did notice it finally, I checked the tank pressure but had not turned off the pump or drained it...and as I now know, that was incorrect. I also incorrectly concluded that the bladder had blown out and was in process of pricing out parts and pcs to replace. Saw this video in my search for knowledge....shut down the pump and drained the tank...pressure was at 5lbs !!! Pumped it back up as per this vid and presto ...no more short cycling ! Had no idea that the air pressure required yearly maintenance !! Thanks Guys ...saved me a bundle of pain and suffering !
You guys are the BEST at explaining everything well, pump, pressure switch & anything related to a well for us novice diyers to understand. Keep up the great work!
Thank you so much for your help. We live in a rural area and finding service help is difficult. I procrastinated on resolving our water pressure becuase of a red tag reading "do not touch, call the installer." I would not have emptied the tank to measure this. You fixed out water pressure and we appreciate the help.
As somebody who has been commissioning commercial systems for years, your recommendations and your numbers are spot-on. Too many people don't drain the water pressure off the tank before filling the air side. That is critical to proper operation. On a side note, the older tanks didn't have a bladder and over a period of time, the air that's in the tank is assimilated into the water and requires repressurization. The techniques for setting pressure on these tanks is a little different. I like to have the switch kick in I got about a 1/3 tank level and shut off no more than a 2/3 full tank level. This can be determined by the sweat on the outside of the tank, or by rapping on the side to determine the level. The same technique works on compression tanks with sight glasses. Heating system 1/3 full when cold. Cooling systems two-thirds full when warm. Once again tank completely empty before filling. Most commercial compression tanks don't provide a Schrader valve for adjusting air pressure. It would be nice if they did because over time, not only does the water assimilate the air but the air tends to leak out the rubbers on the sight glass. Thank you for an informative and correct method of determining the proper pressures.
I just happened across your video because I also have a tank and pressure system set up just like yours but what I didn’t know was that my tank needed to be 2 pounds lower than my current Cut on pressure and that was very helpful and useful to know.
Pressure started surging, gauge up and down...plumbers replaced switch, still doing it. Then I found this video after looking more into tanks at lowes & HD, and after thinking it's the switch and all. So, this video and all the specs and info on pre-pressurized, air pressure...I had no idea. But, now I do. With the info in this video, I checked the air pressure in the tank, and the tank/switch is set for 30-50 psi. The pressure in the tank was at LEAST 60 psi. Wow. No wonder it wasn't working right. I backed the pressure to 28, and now it's working right again. How the pressure got that high, or how long it was like that...let's just say the builder, from top to bottom, didn't do things right. I've had to learn to fix a lot of things, also, due to lackof good help in this area. So, thank YOU very much for this video, and it helped me troubleshoot and fix what could have cost a lot more than a new switch, which was, in fact, probably needed.
You're most welcome Troy! Glad we could help you solve your pump issues, it motivates us to keep putting out these help videos. We're just a phone call away if you need any technical advice or help with your water system. Cheers!
Such a helpful video! I appreciate you getting right to the point. First-time well owner, and immediately found problems: switch settings were 30-50, pressure tank was down to 15 and adjusting that to 28 solved it! Hypothetical question out of pure curiosity - what if your pressure tank was inflated to a higher psi than 2 minus the cut-in psi? For example if the tank was inflated to 38 whereas your switch settings were 30-50? My guess is the pump would never turn on? Thanks again!
I believe you are correct...because the pump switch would stay satisfied at 38 psi. It's not until the tank pressure reaches a low of 30 psi that the switch would activate the pump. 28 psi ensures a margin of error in pressure switch activation
Another old guy here thinking the same thing... waiting for him to identify it as a Schrader valve. I later decided his ultimate goal was to keep the video as non technical as possible and avoid confusion for those people who are less than handy. That said... knowing its a Schrader valve is key in the event you ever need to purchase a new "valve stem" for a leaking valve. A beneficial thing knowing its a Schrader valve and "not a Presta valve" which is the other common valve found on bicycle tires.
What are the symptoms of having the pressure in your tank too high or too low. e.g. on a 40-60 tank, what are the systems if your pressure was only 32, or if your pressure was 45? This would be useful to know so if we see that symptom, we know to check the pressure (vs it being something completely different)
Great video, but you should have mentioned that the ambient temperature of the tank affects the air pressure inside it. So, if it is in area that sees a large variation of temperature between say, Summer and Winter, then the tank pressure would need to be checked regularly as the pressure is going to go up in the warmer months and down in the cooler months. this very well could affect your cut in in the warmer months if the pressure stays above cut in, then your pump wont start.
@1960gambit - Good tip about change in temp during each season affecting ambient pressure. Wonder if the 2 psi margin accounts for most of this seasonal change? When you state " if the pressure stays above cut in, then your pump wont start.", that is true, but when someone uses water, like starts watering the garden, or drawing a bath, the system water pressure would drop below the cut-in pressure as the bladder tank would be empty of water at that point, so the pump would start supplying water and charging the bladder tank.
Great Help. My problem was the pressure in the tank. I was down to zero with the 5 gallon tank empty of water and the power off. Since I have a 30/50 pressure switch, I put air in the tank to 28 and problem solved for now. My sprinklers are working just fine and the motor is not turning off and on. I will watch to see if my tank pressure drops in the future.
hey, just a quick thank you. I have one of these and my father installed it. We were able to get through the steps easily to figure out what my issue was and it's all set... Kris :)
Thank you for explaining this so well! As a pump serviceman I always explained everything that you have shown! Many people inadvertently checked the pressure in the accumulator when the pump had pumped up to cut out pressure which is wrong! More often than not I would always remove the tank from the pumping system to get a correct pressure in the accumulator! On the smaller accumulators sometimes the diaphragm had inverted itself & in that case it could be reverted back to it’s original position with the aide of something small like a large strong stick the could be placed in the inlet side being the (bottom of the tank) saving the customer buying a new accumulator! Or in some instances connecting air pressure & blowing the diaphragm backwards but in doing that the Schrader valve needed to be removed to allow the air to be discharged from the top side of the tank! Nine times out of ten the water wouldn’t drain out of the tank in your suggestion because it takes so much pressure to push out that remaining water from the system! But the drain tap at the base of the intake sounds like a much better option for the novice home handyman!
Hey Chris I'm a plumber. Just found your videos and I'm glad I did. I'm just now getting into the service side of things and its midnight now and I'm still watching lol.
If leaking air from the valve thus causing the tank pressure setting to drop... replace the air (Schrader) valve. If leaking water from the air valve... replace the pressure tank!
Mine also looks like leaking. I can hear the air bleeds out sometimes when i fill it with air. What sort of stem is it? I need to order one. is it easy to replace it?
@@Sean-Aviation It's exactly the same as a car or bicycle (or lawn mower, or snow blower, etc.) tire. So get down to the auto parts store and buy a couple valve cores. There ought to be an included tool that fits into the valve and interfaces with the core. Just unscew the old, and screw in the new.
Thanks for answering all these questions that people post. I've been watching videos for weeks now and haven't seen this issue. The sad part is I've been a city slicker for 40+ years and never had to deal with these problems. Now I've been out in the country for 8 years and probably should have checked into this sooner.When the house inspector went thru he pointed at the pressure gauge and said " 40 lbs. that's a good pressure to be at. A couple of months ago we noticed the pressure dropped. After checking the gauge it was @ 35 lbs. I started to investigate this on You Tube only to find that the gauge is actually suppose to go up & down within 20 psi. Ours never does. We also never hear the switch clicking, but in the shower you can tell the pressure going up & down.Also looking at the pressure tank which is a Red Lion RL202(discontinued) don't know if this is a diaphram tank or bladder. Looking @ Water Worker tanks.They recommend 62 gallon tank instead of the current 20 gallon one I have. I'm thinking that I'm probably better just to replace all them parts and know that everything is up to snuff. Is this the best solution? Thanks for your time & would appreciate opinion.
It's always a good to have a larger pressure tank, but it really depends on the flow/hp of your pump to determine the "minimum" size required. If you can, give us a call and we can help you decide what to replace: 855.329.4519
Thank You ! My pump was cycling on way too much. The first thing I did after shutting of the pump and draining the tank was replace the pressure guage as it seemed to be not reading correctly. No sloshing around when I shook the tank so I checked the pressure of the diaphram - around 30 psi. I pumped it up to 38 lbs. and turned the pump back on. A slight adjustment on the pressure control switch got it back to turning on at 40 psi and off at 60. It is working great again and not turning on and off every time I use a little water. It is not only good to have it fixed, it is good to understand and to get to know the system better. Thanks for your short and concise video. It was an easy fix with your help.
Well pumps are somewhat new to me. The "well T" you show in the video is installed above the tank itself, and a line runs from it to the bottom of the tank. So if I use the setup I have it doesn't seem like I will drain the tank, it seems like the line from the bottom of the tank running to the well T will not let the tank drain, but I am not well versed in well pump operations. So a little more detail would be appreciated. This video is very easy to watch, and explains much, which is the way I need to start out learning something new.
My pump is 40/60 I currently have it lit set to 40/50 two story home 3 bathrooms I just installed new pump today old one was dated 2002. Myers. Finally gave in. My tank is a utilitech 20 gallon. While the pump was off I measured 18 psi in the tank. It’s running about 45 seconds between cycles. If I add air to the tank to 38 will it extend my cycle time? And will I loose prime during those few minutes adding air
Hi, I enjoy your videos. Thanks for taking the time to do them. I have a question. What symptoms are there if your air pressure is set to high? Say it's set at 28 lbs when it should be set at 18 lbs for a 20 pound cut in. Thank you
Good question. Your pressure tank will only hold water in it if the air pressure is LOWER than the system pressure. For your example, when you're using water and the system pressure falls to 28 PSI, your pressure tank will have pushed all the water out and the pressure will immediately drop to 0. If it is set correctly at 18 PSI, your tank will still have a small amount of water in it when the pump turns on, meaning you're utilizing the full 20 PSI range instead of just 12 PSI (28-40) that you had when the tank was set incorrectly. A tank set too high will cause the pump to cycle much more often and wear out sooner.
Thanks for the video. You said to check under the cap of the water pressure switch for cut in pressure number. People need to know about the electricity under the plastic cap of the water pressure switch. If the power is on, it's dangerous.
I'm so glad they're are videos like yours it helped me and my family a lot.... Thank you for taking the time to do this.... God bless you and your house......
Thank you thank you thank you. We have been living with the tank clicking for so long now even when we flushed the tolit it would click about 10 times. We have never had a well before
My system was working, but the pressure would drop to zero before the pump cut in. I tried adjusting the air pressure in the tank, but no matter what I did, nothing worked. After running the pump up and down about a dozen times for testing, the pressure suddenly went through my top setting of 50psi and was heading past 65psi before I could flip the CB. I took the pressure switch off and found the inlet was blocked with rust and other slimy stuff. I carefully took the adapter off the pressure sensor and cleaned everything. I readjusted the tank pressure to 28psi (two pounds below switch cut in) and when I turned the pump back on, huzzah, it worked just as it was supposed to.
this is great thanks, my tank is a 20/40, I sure hope it's adjustable, because I'm about to add a lot of pre-filters . I've got more than a few videos queue'd up, here's hoping I learn everything I need, and I don't need everything I learn :)
Thank you sir 👍👍 I had adjusted my pressure tank about 18 months ago and wanted to be sure I was doing it right . The first time I messed with it I had it all screwed up then somebody told me the proper way but I just couldn't remember all the details for sure. Cheers friend 😎 and I did subscribe and hit the bell 🚬
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. my pressure tank is adjusted correctly . My pressure switch is a 30/50 setting but I'm only getting 4 gallons a minute flow out of a 5/8 hose that's approximately 200 feet away. Maybe I need to do a GPM test at the well manifold ...... ❓
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. I did a GPM test off of my well manifold and I'm getting over 12 gallons a minute after cut in so I don't think I have a problem with my well. I guess if I want volume at that distance I need to run a dedicated inch and a quarter supply line and avoid things like a five gang hose manifold and go full port valves ha ha 😂
Thanks for the basic knowledge for my annual pump system check up and maintenance. I forgot the details. No need to commit it to memory, we have RC worst to rely on‼️ 👍
Thanks for the explanation - super clear! Quick question - when adjusting cut in/out pressures is it better to set your tank bladder pressure first (ie. 38psi for a 40/60 setting) or set your switch first, then the tank, or does it matter? thanks
I'm confused. You say to open a faucet anywhere in the house. I did that and the system drained empty. Then I opened the faucet on the tank tee assembly. The water drained out relatively slowly, with lots of glubs as air entered in to replace the water coming out from the tank. Was it unnecessary to empty the tank, or can you get by with just zero pressure reading from the rest of the household plumbing? Also how accurate must the tire gauge be? What if it's off by one or 2 psi, or 3 or 4?
The pressure is what you need to drain, if there is a little water leftover in the pipe that is fine as long as you pressure gauge reads 0 psi. The best method to check the pressure is with a digital gauge, but a tire gauge should get you close enough if you don't have a digital one. Thanks for the questions!
Air permeates through the diaphragm at a microscopic level. As the tank cycles get olders, the passageways for that air to escape get larger and larger until a hole develops.
Great video and explanation of pressure tank . In the next few days I have to change the Pressure Switch mind always running. I have a shallow well can you explain to me or have a video?
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I'm grateful for the help. These kind of videos never go "viral", but they are the only thing keeping RUclips remotely useful. Thank you.
Ted, I am Chris' uncle and one of the owners of our company. I have been following your videos for a long time and a few years back, pulled the trigger (so to speak) on an FX Impact and Element scope. Your videos are always top notch. What a small world. If you're ever in N. Idaho, please drop by.
It went viral 😂
Yes it is the ONLY thing RUclips is good for.. The Shadow banning is out of control. Any and all information regarding politics is convoluted and skewed (Google as well) if you try to find any negative although truthful information on the Democratic nominees you won't find it. It's really bad now bc of the upcoming election. A lot of conservatives are going over to rumble and X bc there's way less censoring of conservative speech.✌🏼🇺🇸💪🏼
If you want the Worst service don't watch this video because this guy is the Best!
It’s 2024 and I’m a contractor/homeowner.
This video was very simple, easy to understand, and gave all the relevant information in a well constructed manner. I’ll be turning to your channel for answers first from now on.
Much appreciated.
Thank you! My tank has never been checked for pressure, had less than 3lbs. Charged it to 38psi and whole system is much better. No wonder showers were slow...
Thanks for making this video! I installed a large accumulator in my motorhome last year to keep the pump from cycling all the time. I set the pressure, but did not realize that the tank should be empty first! This turned out to be a game-changer because I had it at 36 PSI when full and when it was empty it read 4 PSI - so, wrong, wrong, and wrong. It's now set correctly. Without this video, I would never have known. Thanks very much!
Same thing was done by me.
Unless they quit selling them,or ordering, you don't throw your tank away,easy repair,empty and take tank out, turn upside down, take all nuts off, take out bladder, put in new one, install and set pressure, I keep one on hand, have had a well for 50 years. , Roll up bladder like a newspaper,easy to replace.
Thanks for the information! What does it mean when the tank is completely drained with power and water off, but the pressure gauge still reads 40psi? Can't find a video that addresses this...
@@bnellaniyahobviously broken gauge 😂
@@bnellaniyah Are you referring to the water pressure gauge or the air pressure gauge? If the latter, it means your tank is charged to 40psi. If you have a 40/60 switch, you should let 2psi out of the tank so the gauge reads 38psi.
@@lennydelvecchio7716 the water pressure gauge
TY
This was a “well” done how-to video. I’m so pumped to get my system working.
Tank you very much!
Edit: Sorry couldn’t resist.
Glad it helped!
@@RCworstwater No pressure.
So long boiled water - you will be mist 🤗
Thank you. Just replace the pressure gauge and checked the pressure in the tank. It was 11 psi. Added air to 38 psi for our 40/60 gauge and it worked. Thank you so very much!
This is the most clear procedure and required pressure I've been able to find on the web. Well done R.C. Worst!
Thanks for watching!
Over the years I have been an astute observer of a person's knowledge and intelligence as it is reflected in his/her use of language. This guy is very very smart and his description of the ins and outs of a pressure tank is organized, sequential, easily understandable, and demystifies what a novice like me needs to do to replace or update the air pressure in a typical tank. I'm definitely subscribing to his site!!!
I really appreciate you taking the time to leave such a detailed comment!
This is how a "How to Vid" is ment to be. Proper and well explained, easy to follow info. Thank You
Thanks for the kind words! :)
...and not 35 minutes long
It don't pose to be that way
Lol
Thank you! A great video: clear, succinct, logical and structured. I have been able to fix my house water pump system and all is well again. Saved me the usual "rip out and replace" solution, so something good has been done as well for sustainability and avoiding more landfill. Super! I am grateful.
Finally ! To the point and easy to follow. Thanks ! My well pump was cycling on and off very quickly. Turns out the pressure in my pressure tank was almost zero. (Apparently being in a basement with huge temperature swings can cause this?) I added the correct air pressure, and all is working properly now. Thanks again !! Was afraid I needed a new pressure tank.
You need to check the tank pressure once a year, maybe twice a year if your pressure tank is the old style galvanized tank without a diaphragm. If the water and air aren't separated by a barrier of some sort, then the air mixes with the water over time and you lose the air. Diaphragm tanks just lose the air over time, nothing is completely air tight forever. Checking the air and maintaining the correct pressure ensures the pump doesn't short cycle like yours was doing. That can burn your pump up if you let it go for very long. Pumping water actually cools a submersible pump, so the longer it runs after it turns on, the better it is for the pump motor. My well guy told me that, and he said when watering the yard or garden that it's better to run two sprinklers instead of one, that way the pump runs for a very long time before it turns off, if at all.
This guy is awesome ! extremely well explained! There are many people that are great at their jobs but there aren't many that have the ability to teach it. This guys definitely has that gift. Thanks for the vid
Thanks for watching!
Yes. I have been listening to his videos. He knows what he's talking about you takes his time to explain it to you and details than enough that I can understand. I do have one question though. My prompt was almost completely dry before it kicks in again. Is that because of the pressure
how can i test in built submersible pump Moisture sensor
Thank you, after replacing my pressure gauge it was cutting off at 60 psi and I thought it was wrong. My old one was going to 45 and leaking. I assumed it was wrong then realized the old gauge was just bad. I am a do-it-yourself and have no real knowledge of plumbing. I appreciate you-tubers that post this information. Saved me tons of money.
Thanks for the comment Ann, we're glad you found it useful! :)
Dido and thank you 😊 much
Thank you for the help! The short cycling was due to low bladder pressure. Turning off the well breaker and draining water with a faucet allowed me to get a good pressure reading. Added the air to raise the psi to the proper level has worked!!!
Great video, best one I’ve seen so far, and so far I have watched about a dozen or more. There was no extra added BS of useless info, just straight to the point. I can’t express enough how that sidebar graphic helped. I’m a visual person and it really put it into perspective how the range of both of the adjustments work and the result of adjusting them in relation to each other. It was a very nice touch that made all the difference for me. Now I feel that I completely know how this unit works. My intended use for this unit is to incorporate it inline with my Aquaponic system, Koi ponds and swimming pool. I will be using this unit to help keep pressure to a garden hose for watering plants around the yard (with the help of an 1/2hp 1500gph external water transfer pump) with the water source coming from either the Swimming pool, Koi ponds or Aquaponic system. I’m hoping to be able to continuously have adequate pressure (40 to 60psi) down the line of the hose and yet have the pump turn off whenever the garden nozzle is temporarily of shut off. It’ll make having to carry 5 gallon buckets around the property a thing of the past hopefully. Thanks again.
Thank you so look much!!! That was such a quick, easy fix to our ongoing issue. We were told we needed a new tank. The pressure was at about 54 psi, brought it down to 38 and now everything is running better than ever!! Thank you again!
You bet! Glad we were able to help. :)
was that with an empty tank barry ????
Raymond J I would be interested in a response to your question also!
This is me after I actually read the pressure switch’s cut in and cut off
We just bought our house and I have been having pressure issues and luckily I found your channel. Thanks to this very informative video I was able to quickly identify that we have a 30/50 psi switch. I verified that it was still set to 30/50, drained the tank and found that it was at 48 psi!! It's now set at 28 psi, the water level in the tank has more than doubled (based on the outside condensation level on the tank) and the pressure has been much more consistent. Thanks again and I will be checking out more of your videos.
I've no idea how many months my pump has been short cycling and the potential damage that's been done to it. How often is anyone in the basement while the water is being used upstairs!
Anyway...when I did notice it finally, I checked the tank pressure but had not turned off the pump or drained it...and as I now know, that was incorrect. I also incorrectly concluded that the bladder had blown out and was in process of pricing out parts and pcs to replace. Saw this video in my search for knowledge....shut down the pump and drained the tank...pressure was at 5lbs !!!
Pumped it back up as per this vid and presto ...no more short cycling ! Had no idea that the air pressure required yearly maintenance !! Thanks Guys ...saved me a bundle of pain and suffering !
Thanks my friend ..you're a good man helping out those who really need it
Thank you. My irrigation system is 40 years old and she still works but needed some tweaking. Your video did it. Much appreciated.
Glad it helped!
You guys are the BEST at explaining everything well, pump, pressure switch & anything related to a well for us novice diyers to understand. Keep up the great work!
Thanks!!
@@RCworstwater 00pp was
Thank you so much for your help. We live in a rural area and finding service help is difficult. I procrastinated on resolving our water pressure becuase of a red tag reading "do not touch, call the installer." I would not have emptied the tank to measure this. You fixed out water pressure and we appreciate the help.
Glad I could help!
Finally a useful and comprehensive video. Answered many questions I had before testing my tank. Thanks guys.
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video all the way around! Thank you! Checking my tanks today :)
Good luck!
As somebody who has been commissioning commercial systems for years, your recommendations and your numbers are spot-on. Too many people don't drain the water pressure off the tank before filling the air side. That is critical to proper operation. On a side note, the older tanks didn't have a bladder and over a period of time, the air that's in the tank is assimilated into the water and requires repressurization. The techniques for setting pressure on these tanks is a little different. I like to have the switch kick in I got about a 1/3 tank level and shut off no more than a 2/3 full tank level. This can be determined by the sweat on the outside of the tank, or by rapping on the side to determine the level. The same technique works on compression tanks with sight glasses. Heating system 1/3 full when cold.
Cooling systems two-thirds full when warm. Once again tank completely empty before filling. Most commercial compression tanks don't provide a Schrader valve for adjusting air pressure. It would be nice if they did because over time, not only does the water assimilate the air but the air tends to leak out the rubbers on the sight glass. Thank you for an informative and correct method of determining the proper pressures.
Great tips!
I just happened across your video because I also have a tank and pressure system set up just like yours but what I didn’t know was that my tank needed to be 2 pounds lower than my current Cut on pressure and that was very helpful and useful to know.
Glad we could help!
Pressure started surging, gauge up and down...plumbers replaced switch, still doing it. Then I found this video after looking more into tanks at lowes & HD, and after thinking it's the switch and all. So, this video and all the specs and info on pre-pressurized, air pressure...I had no idea. But, now I do. With the info in this video, I checked the air pressure in the tank, and the tank/switch is set for 30-50 psi. The pressure in the tank was at LEAST 60 psi. Wow. No wonder it wasn't working right. I backed the pressure to 28, and now it's working right again. How the pressure got that high, or how long it was like that...let's just say the builder, from top to bottom, didn't do things right. I've had to learn to fix a lot of things, also, due to lackof good help in this area. So, thank YOU very much for this video, and it helped me troubleshoot and fix what could have cost a lot more than a new switch, which was, in fact, probably needed.
You're most welcome Troy! Glad we could help you solve your pump issues, it motivates us to keep putting out these help videos. We're just a phone call away if you need any technical advice or help with your water system. Cheers!
Troy W just watched the same video on water pumps. 😎👍
Search the entire web try to find a video like this that explains it like this straightforward unbelievable. Thanks for the awesome video
Glad it helped! Thanks!
Such a helpful video! I appreciate you getting right to the point. First-time well owner, and immediately found problems: switch settings were 30-50, pressure tank was down to 15 and adjusting that to 28 solved it! Hypothetical question out of pure curiosity - what if your pressure tank was inflated to a higher psi than 2 minus the cut-in psi? For example if the tank was inflated to 38 whereas your switch settings were 30-50? My guess is the pump would never turn on? Thanks again!
I believe you are correct...because the pump switch would stay satisfied at 38 psi. It's not until the tank pressure reaches a low of 30 psi that the switch would activate the pump. 28 psi ensures a margin of error in pressure switch activation
Excellent video. I own a property maintenance company and often need to be the one with the knowledge. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Just some facts from an old guy. The air valve on top of the tank is called a "schrader valve"
Another old guy here thinking the same thing... waiting for him to identify it as a Schrader valve. I later decided his ultimate goal was to keep the video as non technical as possible and avoid confusion for those people who are less than handy. That said... knowing its a Schrader valve is key in the event you ever need to purchase a new "valve stem" for a leaking valve.
A beneficial thing knowing its a Schrader valve and "not a Presta valve" which is the other common valve found on bicycle tires.
He may not know the actual name of the valve or its core.
@@eltonnoway5692 I also loved the pressure checker term, lol.
@@eltonnoway5692 nor was the hot water line from the boiler valve shutoff step mentioned but definitely on point otherwise.
@@AraceaeFanatics No, he's said it in other videos. I believe he was just trying to avoid making it too complicated for most homeowners.
New to off grid homesteading. I have a different pump, but obviously, this video is extremely helpful. Thank you
What are the symptoms of having the pressure in your tank too high or too low. e.g. on a 40-60 tank, what are the systems if your pressure was only 32, or if your pressure was 45? This would be useful to know so if we see that symptom, we know to check the pressure (vs it being something completely different)
Can you replace the Schrader valve at the top of the tank? That is sometimes a weak link.
Thanks for the info! Very helpful, straight forward, and easy to understand!!
I am on a well and really appreciate knowing this and how to check the pressure. 🙂
Happy to help!
Great video, but you should have mentioned that the ambient temperature of the tank affects the air pressure inside it. So, if it is in area that sees a large variation of temperature between say, Summer and Winter, then the tank pressure would need to be checked regularly as the pressure is going to go up in the warmer months and down in the cooler months. this very well could affect your cut in in the warmer months if the pressure stays above cut in, then your pump wont start.
Good tip!
@1960gambit - Good tip about change in temp during each season affecting ambient pressure. Wonder if the 2 psi margin accounts for most of this seasonal change?
When you state " if the pressure stays above cut in, then your pump wont start.", that is true, but when someone uses water, like starts watering the garden, or drawing a bath, the system water pressure would drop below the cut-in pressure as the bladder tank would be empty of water at that point, so the pump would start supplying water and charging the bladder tank.
Awesome video, super clear and told me exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!
Thanks for watchin!
Best video I have seen on this topic! Thank you for creating this content.
Glad it was helpful!
Great Help. My problem was the pressure in the tank. I was down to zero with the 5 gallon tank empty of water and the power off. Since I have a 30/50 pressure switch, I put air in the tank to 28 and problem solved for now. My sprinklers are working just fine and the motor is not turning off and on. I will watch to see if my tank pressure drops in the future.
Glad to hear our video help you out! If you end up needing to replace the tank, we sell them on our site: www.rcworst.com/Amtrol/Well-X-Trol-c225.html
hey, just a quick thank you. I have one of these and my father installed it. We were able to get through the steps easily to figure out what my issue was and it's all set... Kris :)
Thank you for explaining this so well! As a pump serviceman I always explained everything that you have shown! Many people inadvertently checked the pressure in the accumulator when the pump had pumped up to cut out pressure which is wrong! More often than not I would always remove the tank from the pumping system to get a correct pressure in the accumulator! On the smaller accumulators sometimes the diaphragm had inverted itself & in that case it could be reverted back to it’s original position with the aide of something small like a large strong stick the could be placed in the inlet side being the (bottom of the tank) saving the customer buying a new accumulator! Or in some instances connecting air pressure & blowing the diaphragm backwards but in doing that the Schrader valve needed to be removed to allow the air to be discharged from the top side of the tank!
Nine times out of ten the water wouldn’t drain out of the tank in your suggestion because it takes so much pressure to push out that remaining water from the system! But the drain tap at the base of the intake sounds like a much better option for the novice home handyman!
Hey Chris I'm a plumber. Just found your videos and I'm glad I did. I'm just now getting into the service side of things and its midnight now and I'm still watching lol.
Welcome aboard!
I noticed my valve stem was leaking. I changed the stem and then set the air pressure and it's working fine now. Thanks.
Happy to hear this video helped you fix your issues!
If leaking air from the valve thus causing the tank pressure setting to drop... replace the air (Schrader) valve. If leaking water from the air valve... replace the pressure tank!
Mine also looks like leaking. I can hear the air bleeds out sometimes when i fill it with air. What sort of stem is it? I need to order one. is it easy to replace it?
@@Sean-Aviation It's exactly the same as a car or bicycle (or lawn mower, or snow blower, etc.) tire. So get down to the auto parts store and buy a couple valve cores. There ought to be an included tool that fits into the valve and interfaces with the core. Just unscew the old, and screw in the new.
Great job on the explanation, thumbs up.
👍👍
Excellent instructional video! Thank you R.C. Worst & Co.!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you well information due to diaphragm expansion vessel.
Thanks for watching!
Great explanation on how to adjust pressure ! TANK YOU
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful Thanks, you saved me a service call.
Happy to hear it!
This vid was great. At least I know how to check the status of my tank. Hopefully it's just adding more pressure.
Very informative, good training video.
Thanks for the tutorial used it on my pressure tank it had like 20 psi in it
Thanks for answering all these questions that people post. I've been watching videos for weeks now and haven't seen this issue. The sad part is I've been a city slicker for 40+ years and never had to deal with these problems. Now I've been out in the country for 8 years and probably should have checked into this sooner.When the house inspector went thru he pointed at the pressure gauge and said " 40 lbs. that's a good pressure to be at. A couple of months ago we noticed the pressure dropped. After checking the gauge it was @ 35 lbs. I started to investigate this on You Tube only to find that the gauge is actually suppose to go up & down within 20 psi. Ours never does. We also never hear the switch clicking, but in the shower you can tell the pressure going up & down.Also looking at the pressure tank which is a Red Lion RL202(discontinued) don't know if this is a diaphram tank or bladder. Looking @ Water Worker tanks.They recommend 62 gallon tank instead of the current 20 gallon one I have. I'm thinking that I'm probably better just to replace all them parts and know that everything is up to snuff. Is this the best solution? Thanks for your time & would appreciate opinion.
It's always a good to have a larger pressure tank, but it really depends on the flow/hp of your pump to determine the "minimum" size required. If you can, give us a call and we can help you decide what to replace: 855.329.4519
Thank You ! My pump was cycling on way too much. The first thing I did after shutting of the pump and draining the tank was replace the pressure guage as it seemed to be not reading correctly. No sloshing around when I shook the tank so I checked the pressure of the diaphram - around 30 psi. I pumped it up to 38 lbs. and turned the pump back on. A slight adjustment on the pressure control switch got it back to turning on at 40 psi and off at 60. It is working great again and not turning on and off every time I use a little water.
It is not only good to have it fixed, it is good to understand and to get to know the system better.
Thanks for your short and concise video. It was an easy fix with your help.
I can't thank you enough!! What a difference once everything was set up correctly! Thanks again! J
Thanks for watching! :)
Very professional guy with great explanations. This is my first time owning and maintaining a pressure tank at home.
Glad we could help!
Great explanation sir !
I have a pressure tank connected to jet pump and you taught my what its for and what to do.
Great vid told me just what I needed to thanks.
Well pumps are somewhat new to me. The "well T" you show in the video is installed above the tank itself, and a line runs from it to the bottom of the tank. So if I use the setup I have it doesn't seem like I will drain the tank, it seems like the line from the bottom of the tank running to the well T will not let the tank drain,
but I am not well versed in well pump operations. So a little more detail would be appreciated. This video is very easy to watch, and explains much, which is the way I need to start out learning something new.
Great information.
Thanks for a very clear lesson. Done a few of these but it always is years apart and I need to learn it all again.
Glad it was helpful!
My pump is 40/60 I currently have it lit set to 40/50 two story home 3 bathrooms I just installed new pump today old one was dated 2002. Myers. Finally gave in. My tank is a utilitech 20 gallon. While the pump was off I measured 18 psi in the tank. It’s running about 45 seconds between cycles. If I add air to the tank to 38 will it extend my cycle time? And will I loose prime during those few minutes adding air
Hi, I enjoy your videos. Thanks for taking the time to do them.
I have a question. What symptoms are there if your air pressure is set to high? Say it's set at 28 lbs when it should be set at 18 lbs for a 20 pound cut in. Thank you
Good question. Your pressure tank will only hold water in it if the air pressure is LOWER than the system pressure. For your example, when you're using water and the system pressure falls to 28 PSI, your pressure tank will have pushed all the water out and the pressure will immediately drop to 0. If it is set correctly at 18 PSI, your tank will still have a small amount of water in it when the pump turns on, meaning you're utilizing the full 20 PSI range instead of just 12 PSI (28-40) that you had when the tank was set incorrectly. A tank set too high will cause the pump to cycle much more often and wear out sooner.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. that makes sense to me. thank you for your time and help. Joe
@@keepingtdream I would direct these questions to the technician that is servicing your tank.
Thanks for the video. You said to check under the cap of the water pressure switch for cut in pressure number.
People need to know about the electricity under the plastic cap of the water pressure switch.
If the power is on, it's dangerous.
His first instruction was to turn off the breaker. If you follow his instructions, there will be no electricity under the cover.
GREAT information thanks.
Thanks for the comment Bob!
I'm so glad they're are videos like yours it helped me and my family a lot.... Thank you for taking the time to do this.... God bless you and your house......
Glad to help
Thank you thank you thank you. We have been living with the tank clicking for so long now even when we flushed the tolit it would click about 10 times. We have never had a well before
Well before
Look into getting a Rays pressure snubber and install it under the pressure switch. Should take care of the problem
Thank you for the helpful information. Much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
My system was working, but the pressure would drop to zero before the pump cut in. I tried adjusting the air pressure in the tank, but no matter what I did, nothing worked. After running the pump up and down about a dozen times for testing, the pressure suddenly went through my top setting of 50psi and was heading past 65psi before I could flip the CB. I took the pressure switch off and found the inlet was blocked with rust and other slimy stuff. I carefully took the adapter off the pressure sensor and cleaned everything. I readjusted the tank pressure to 28psi (two pounds below switch cut in) and when I turned the pump back on, huzzah, it worked just as it was supposed to.
Nice Job!
this is great thanks, my tank is a 20/40, I sure hope it's adjustable, because I'm about to add a lot of pre-filters . I've got more than a few videos queue'd up, here's hoping I learn everything I need, and I don't need everything I learn :)
Make sure your filters are installed AFTER your pressure tank and switch.
Thank you sir 👍👍 I had adjusted my pressure tank about 18 months ago and wanted to be sure I was doing it right . The first time I messed with it I had it all screwed up then somebody told me the proper way but I just couldn't remember all the details for sure. Cheers friend 😎 and I did subscribe and hit the bell 🚬
Thanks for subscribing! We're happy the video helped you out!
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. my pressure tank is adjusted correctly . My pressure switch is a 30/50 setting but I'm only getting 4 gallons a minute flow out of a 5/8 hose that's approximately 200 feet away. Maybe I need to do a GPM test at the well manifold ...... ❓
If you getting 4 GPM out of a 200 foot 5/8" hose that sounds about right. The longer/smaller your supply line gets the less GPM you will get from it.
R.C. Worst & Co., Inc. I did a GPM test off of my well manifold and I'm getting over 12 gallons a minute after cut in so I don't think I have a problem with my well. I guess if I want volume at that distance I need to run a dedicated inch and a quarter supply line and avoid things like a five gang hose manifold and go full port valves ha ha 😂
You are correct! :)
Thanks for the basic knowledge for my annual pump system check up and maintenance. I forgot the details. No need to commit it to memory, we have RC worst to rely on‼️ 👍
Right on!
A clogged 1/4" tube to the pressure sw. will cause erratic pressure & pump function
Correct!
Great and well made video. Very helpful,thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much. You solved my problem on an issue i had no clue about. Awesome!!
Happy we could help you do it yourself! Nice job
Good SIMPLE explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Dude you rock!!
Very good explanation
Thanks for the explanation - super clear! Quick question - when adjusting cut in/out pressures is it better to set your tank bladder pressure first (ie. 38psi for a 40/60 setting) or set your switch first, then the tank, or does it matter? thanks
Set the switch first, then adjust your tank once you hit your target pressure.
@@RCworstwater thanks!
WOW, Awesome. Clear, concise, useful information, efficiently presented. Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Do you increase air pressure i.e. add air, bringing it to 38 psi when the tank is empty or full of water?
Mark: Turn off breaker and drain tank of all water by opening a faucet in the system prior to checking/adding air.
Empty
Thanks for information very interesting. 🇵🇭
I'm confused. You say to open a faucet anywhere in the house. I did that and the system drained empty. Then I opened the faucet on the tank tee assembly. The water drained out relatively slowly, with lots of glubs as air entered in to replace the water coming out from the tank. Was it unnecessary to empty the tank, or can you get by with just zero pressure reading from the rest of the household plumbing? Also how accurate must the tire gauge be? What if it's off by one or 2 psi, or 3 or 4?
The pressure is what you need to drain, if there is a little water leftover in the pipe that is fine as long as you pressure gauge reads 0 psi. The best method to check the pressure is with a digital gauge, but a tire gauge should get you close enough if you don't have a digital one. Thanks for the questions!
Thanks.
Criss mil gracias men por el video ayuda mucho y explicas perfectamente GRACIAS ok Saludos desde Michoacán México bendiciones,eres un chingon
This is very useful for those who has well at their house and only for HANDYMEN......Thank you for sharing
Why does my pressure tank lose air pressure every several years? Tank is 10 years old. 20 gallon.
Air permeates through the diaphragm at a microscopic level. As the tank cycles get olders, the passageways for that air to escape get larger and larger until a hole develops.
Thanks a million. I always had city water and i didn't know how to adjust this. Mine only had 5psi...
Glad I could help
Call r.c worst.
What's the worst that can happen ?
What can I say? Another great video. Good job guys.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for the video , just helped me alot .
why there is not one built in pressure gauge on top of the blue tank?
Perfect. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for posting.
Glad it helped!
Thank you for a clear description for checking my pressure tank pressure. Subed/liked
Hold on. . . you hearted a Trump Won Trump loser? Unsubed/unliked. Cancelled son.
Very helpful video. Great job guys!
Thanks!
Great video and explanation of pressure tank . In the next few days I have to change the Pressure Switch mind always running. I have a shallow well can you explain to me or have a video?
Thanks, very informative !
Good explanation
Thanks!
Man thank you for the pressure!