Curb-Find Propane Heater! Can We Fix it? Without Buying Parts? Pilot Light Won't Stay Lit.
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
- Set out to the curb on trash day is a table top propane heater, and it doesn't work. And the trash truck is coming - "Save Me!"
[Note: here is a link to a Tall Patio Heater repair (thanks to Ron for the suggestion!):
• Curb Find! Tall Patio ... ]
In this video we look at what went wrong, how I fixed it, and how I improved its performance with some simple maintenance. No replacement parts needed. Let's fix it.
Symptom: when I got it home I tested it and while the pilot light would light as long as I held in the knob, as soon as I released it, the pilot would go out. Holding it in lit longer to heat up the thermocouple did not help. There was no way to get it to go to Low to operate. So, that's why it was put out at the curb with the trash cans. "It had not been working right lately anyway," it appears. We'll address that too (yellow flame).
After finding the main problem with this I figured that its repair, especially without replacing parts, may not be shown online, so I picked up the camera and showed the repair and reassembly and test. Then I videoed an intro and some initial disassembly info. Then a few days later, went back and addressed the burner maintenance. Then a bunch of editing to try to make it continuous. Enjoy
This is for entertainment and not instruction; if you follow what I do it is at your own risk. Please do not disable the safety switch (I do not!) as it may be tempting to do so; don't mess with fire safety.
Brands this design also appears to be sold under:
Hampton Bay, Garden Radiance, Northern Trail, FireSense, Garden Treasures, etc.
References and other information:
Contact cleaners: DeOxit or other suitable contact cleaner, e.g. CRC, RadioShack, MG Chemicals, etc. Isopropyl alcohol may work too. Do not file or sand the switch contact points!
Camera: Canon G7X Mark III
Mic: Rode VideoMicro
Video Editing Software: Power Director
Aircraft backing vocals courtesy: Nearby Class Bravo departure procedure
Jump to:
0:01 What cha' got there?
0:49 Getting into the controls
2:10 How the controls (are supposed to) work
3:07 What's wrong - the switch
3:55 The problem exposed - and fixing the core issue
4:44 Reassembling the switch and the tilt (dump) switch assembly
7:18 Testing the tilt switch via electrical continuity
8:05 Reassembling the tilt (or dump) switch back into the heater case
12:27 Testing to see if the repaired switch will function to shut off the gas if tilted
15:06 Reassembling the heater
18:20 Testing it out after assembly, and noting the flame being too yellow
19:51 Yellow Flame, going back in to fix
20:26 Disassembling and inspecting the burner assembly
21:10 Cleaning out the gas mixer tube and burner assembly
22:12 Reassembling the burner assembly
23:21 Testing it all out - all done
24:14 / Review and wrap up
Jump to:
00:01 / What cha' got there?
00:49 / Getting into the controls
02:10 / How the controls (are supposed to) work
03:07 / What's wrong - the switch
03:55 / The problem exposed - and fixing the core issue
04:44 / Reassembling the switch and the tilt (dump) switch assembly
07:18 / Testing the tilt switch via electrical continuity
08:05 / Reassembling the tilt (or dump) switch back into the heater case
12:27 / Testing to see if the repaired switch will function to shut off the gas if tilted
15:06 / Reassembling the heater
18:20 / Testing it out after assembly, and noting the flame being too yellow
19:51 / Later, going back in to address the flame burn quality
20:26 / Disassembling and inspecting the burner assembly
21:10 / Cleaning out the gas mixer tube and burner assembly
22:12 / Reassembling the burner assembly
23:21 / Testing it all out - all done
24:14 / Review and wrap up
I watched this just for the fun of it.I can't believe how much I have learned about propane heaters. Thanks for this video!
Haha. It was a learning experience for me too. Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks
I have the same heater that quit during the Super Bowl. It now works like the day I got it thanks to your video! Thank you for taking the time to make it.
You're welcome, glad it helped. Thank you for the nice comment.
I had the same problem, was going to toss it until I viewed your video, very helpfull and solved the problem!
Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment.
EXACTLY the video I was looking for, bringing this little guy to football game this Saturday, thank youuuu!
You are welcome! Just giving back for all the help others have provided me as well. Have fun at the game! (if you need more info, the video I have of the Tall heater has more detail on working on that same switch)
I also picked one off the curb ha ha ha! Beautiful stainless steel heater and I want to fix it so badly! This video is exactly what I needed. When I first saw this video it went over my head. After I dismantled my heater on my own, I can relate perfectly to the parts you mentioned. If you want to dismantle this table top version, here are the steps I took:
1. It's very easy, just start poking around your own heater and understand it like you would anything else you own.
2. Photography top assembly, and bottom assembly methodically.
3. Color code every part you dismantle. I used acrylic colors -blue for wire and nut and socket assembly -one dot on each.
red for another wire, nut, socket assembly. For the tilt switch, two prongs come off. Color code each prong to its own socket -one goes on top, one bottom. Don't mix them up.
4. The table top version is a real pain to disassemble. You cannot access the tilt switch at the base without unscrewing several parts near the burner. Remove the burner (2 screws), then remove the Trio assembly of Igniter, Thermocouple, Pilot Gas Flue - 2 screws to loosen from cover. Pull out the Igniter prong and leave there.
5. Unscrew the nuts at base of heater holding the Thermocouple in place, and pilot light in place. It is not easy to do the igniter at the base but you can pull back the wire from top since you pulled out the prong.
6. On base, pull off main control switch black knob. Unscrew the hex nut and it frees up the control knob from base.
7. Pull the whole base assembly out from below, and remove the top assembly from the top, taking care not to bend any copper gas pipes.
8. The main section below is the gas flue pipe assembly in brass. Remove the regulator from this - round gizmo that attaches to propane. One tiny screw off then pull it out. Don't lose that machined screw!!! I use painters tape to tape all screws to sections for easy assembly.
9. Oil up the control knob shaft so it moves freely up and down and around. You can unscrew it and look inside but its a puzzle to put back together, so pay attention to the initial OFF position, which is the key.
10. Steel wool to remove any grime and corrosion on base assembly, blow out the inside with compressed air to remove soot. Straighten out the main gas flue if bent slightly. Use a fine needle to clean out the hole on top. I have been unable to open up the main gas flue yet, but this is very sooty usually, so must be blown out. I did blow out the pilot light copper pipe and it works fine now.
11. I used a Dremel with steel wire wheel and an angle grinder with a wire cup brush to grind off any rust on top burner plates, and on steel edges, and any screw with corrosion or rust. All shiny now! For parts that don't get hot spray with Loctite Rust Neutralizer for bonding rust off.
12. I reassembled heater, and pilot light worked fine! Hurrah! But I had trouble with the burners. So I disassembled it again and working on cleaning out the gas flue. I cannot get the nuts off, they seem to be welded on to an aluminum tube and I risk bending the tube, so will try to loosen the nuts with a heat gun. Not sure what to do here. But we will see tomorrow. Almost there.
One problem I have is that the typical one pound gas cylinder is not sitting on base of heater as it should. There seems to be a 2 inch space under it. It is dangling. My assembly might be off. Any thoughts anyone?
Exactly what I was looking for. Great video. 👍👍👍
Thanks for the comment, Fil. Glad you liked it!
I found a tall patio one as well on curb, walked thru the steps and it was just cleaning to get it running. Have yellow flame too so I gotta go back and clean the burners as suspected. Thanks for the overview and details.
Thanks for the comment, Mike. Glad it helped - found on the curb equals bonus points!
A great repair video. That switch controls a "dry circuit" and a special contact type is needed for that. But that costs real money so a cheap switch is used and it lasts past the warranty.
Think of how many these get thrown away due to that cheap switch too. Glad you liked the video and thanks for the comment.
@@PracticallyFixed It's worth collecting them just to repurpose the switch for another project.
I just found one someone threw out also. I suppose it's the same issue because the pilot works just won't stay on. I will try this and hope it works. Thanks for the video
It is a pretty common issue. Also found it on one of the tall ones as well. Hope it does the trick for you.
Also, the in the video of the tall unit, link below, which was after this one, I spent more time on the switch disassembly, testing and cleaning if you need to check that out. ruclips.net/video/dxy407D-x4g/видео.html
there is on screw that holds the burner on, undo that and it lifts out. Thank you for the education!
You are welcome and glad you liked it. Thanks for info, and the comment!
Most of the videos here just mention the thermocouple but not the switch. My thermocouple was clean so I’m going to try the switch if I can reach it. I’m a newbie so a quick lesson on using a circuit tester would be great. :-)
Thanks for the video!
Hi Samuel, thank you for the comment; yes the switch is often the problem. (Not just on these things but on may others as well) On my channel is another video on a "tall" patio heater where I show more detail on cleaning the switch. (I tried to also experiment with different contact cleaners as well, but had a problem with my tester - oh well..) This video may show more of what you ask. Let me know.
ruclips.net/video/dxy407D-x4g/видео.html
I used a multimeter which has a continuity "beep" function which I believe most have these days. You certainly do not need an expensive meter! (e.g. Home Depot has the Klein MM300 for about $30 which has that function) The beep is just a quick way to test for Zero Ohms resistance. A less expensive meter with a dial read out will work just as well, but you just have to watch to see if the meter reads Zero when the switch is closed.
If the switch needs cleaning, the switch will not go reliably to Zero Ohms for the signal to get through. Conduction of current through the switch may cut in and out, and that is enough to shut off the valve and make you start over trying to light these heaters.
For ease of showing this I have aftermarket test leads which have "grabbers" on them to hold onto test points, but you can just hold the test leads to the switch leads, or use a short alligator test lead to make the connection.
Thanks again for the comment and hope it works out! Fixing your own stuff is very rewarding.
Great video! Subbed.
Awesome, thank you!