The "mistakes" sign is very helpful. It is interesting to see that a laminated product has internal stresses enough that it will warp with removal of material.
Yes if the pocket is deep enough it will. DOC was 6.5mm and I was not sure if it would move but I had that happen before (not for a sign) and it moved quite a bit I was surprised as well … good for the demonstration !
@7Alfa Tech : I agree... there is often more to be learned from seeing the result of incorrect technique than from watching a perfect example while being told what might happen if you do it wrong.
Yes, totally agree, if one of my projects that I film goes wrong I will re-do it but will always include the defective part as a lesson learned so you as the viewer can avoid my mistake.
I think this video is complete v-bit use explanation, thanks again for any tips sharing with us, always watching your any video in your RUclips channel i think your work deserves more views and more likes, please keep going forward and don't be frustrated.
I agree, raised lettering is another level compared to engraved lettering. My first real project was a schedule sign for church ... I had to match a previous sign about 75 years old. It exceeded my workspace so learned about tiling ...split an "H" in the tile, so half was cut on tile one and half on tile two. Learned about using gage pins on that one. I also used an MDF plywood for material (Covid time frame) let's say two letters were "liberated" as they flew across the room. Cut out 2 more letters and tacked/glued in place before 3 coats of paint ... it has been 2 yrs and it has not rotted yet. Thanks for the videos.
Just like you described Carl, there is a lot to learn making signs. Different substrates, the different fonts,tiling, the bits involved and the whole painting aspect and then to make it UV and weather resistant. Not easy I think this was barely an intro to the subject.
it's normal that it bent, you milled a lot of material on one side. I haven't done it on cnc yet, but as a carpenter I always took this into account. You need to have a thicker material than it is supposed to be and mill everything around the inscriptions, rotate and mount in a neutral position, let the material be crooked, align it by milling and turn it back to the right side and finish milling.
Yes you are correct. It is because of the deep pocket, as I explained. I am a woodworker as well and wanted to bring that point across. Thank you for your explanation.
With MDF adding a sealcoat of some sort before paint helps a lot. For a lot of my MDF workshop jigs and workbenches I actually use several coats of Shellac with a light sanding between and then a Wax depending on the application. Rather than canned Shellac buy some Beetles and make your own and manually apply it gets a much better result.
Yes I use the de-waxed shellac as well, recently just the spray can. I like the smell much better than most finishes and it dries so fast. Thanks for your comment !
The last tip was the best I think! Altering cut depth for the size of font - such an easy concept, but so easy to overlook on during programming! Thanks! Have you come across Valchromat or similar coloured MDFs? I don't know how much you play around with signs, but if you dislike colouring the cut out it could be something to look at - I use it a fair bit with veneers to expose a black coloured MDF and then the entire project can get a clear coat as a single process (unrequested knowledge dump over).
Thank you Adam for the suggestion. I have worked with 2 colored resin material that works using the same concept. I will check out Valchromat right now thx again
very helpful, many thanks. I am using Edding CNC software with Fusion 360 which I see you using at times. There are very few examples of this combination so I would be very interested in any content showing how you use this.
I need a small job doing please. I have only the one job (2 small 40mm brass engraved 'badges' 4mm thick at their thickest point, engraved lines 1mm deep) that needs doing, I can pay and supply materials. I can also supply diagrams and a B&W design (.pdf etc). Let me know. UK based. Reply if you can do this. Thanks.
I am confident you will find someone locally. Brass engraves easy. Check into some Facebook groups like cnc entrepreneurs they always like to pick up some work.
Well I am going to leave your comment posted here so if someone local to you reads it they can get in touch with you. Shipping from and to the US is rather cost prohibitive.
I really like that you show us what not to do and explain why in this by showing the mistakes. Nice way to present the info!
Thank you Ryan !
The "mistakes" sign is very helpful. It is interesting to see that a laminated product has internal stresses enough that it will warp with removal of material.
Yes if the pocket is deep enough it will. DOC was 6.5mm and I was not sure if it would move but I had that happen before (not for a sign) and it moved quite a bit I was surprised as well … good for the demonstration !
@7Alfa Tech : I agree... there is often more to be learned from seeing the result of incorrect technique than from watching a perfect example while being told what might happen if you do it wrong.
Yes, totally agree, if one of my projects that I film goes wrong I will re-do it but will always include the defective part as a lesson learned so you as the viewer can avoid my mistake.
I think this video is complete v-bit use explanation, thanks again for any tips sharing with us, always watching your any video in your RUclips channel i think your work deserves more views and more likes, please keep going forward and don't be frustrated.
Thank you Saeed maybe we can convince RUclips one day.
@@JBWorx I Hope So
👍
I agree, raised lettering is another level compared to engraved lettering. My first real project was a schedule sign for church ... I had to match a previous sign about 75 years old. It exceeded my workspace so learned about tiling ...split an "H" in the tile, so half was cut on tile one and half on tile two. Learned about using gage pins on that one.
I also used an MDF plywood for material (Covid time frame) let's say two letters were "liberated" as they flew across the room. Cut out 2 more letters and tacked/glued in place before 3 coats of paint ... it has been 2 yrs and it has not rotted yet.
Thanks for the videos.
Just like you described Carl, there is a lot to learn making signs. Different substrates, the different fonts,tiling, the bits involved and the whole painting aspect and then to make it UV and weather resistant. Not easy I think this was barely an intro to the subject.
Love your videos! So informative. Your channel is underrated!! I wish you made more videos!
I am going to make more!! Yes I don’t have many views maybe my thumbnails need improvement. Well it will work out eventually…
it's normal that it bent, you milled a lot of material on one side. I haven't done it on cnc yet, but as a carpenter I always took this into account. You need to have a thicker material than it is supposed to be and mill everything around the inscriptions, rotate and mount in a neutral position, let the material be crooked, align it by milling and turn it back to the right side and finish milling.
Yes you are correct. It is because of the deep pocket, as I explained. I am a woodworker as well and wanted to bring that point across. Thank you for your explanation.
With MDF adding a sealcoat of some sort before paint helps a lot. For a lot of my MDF workshop jigs and workbenches I actually use several coats of Shellac with a light sanding between and then a Wax depending on the application. Rather than canned Shellac buy some Beetles and make your own and manually apply it gets a much better result.
Yes I use the de-waxed shellac as well, recently just the spray can. I like the smell much better than most finishes and it dries so fast. Thanks for your comment !
The last tip was the best I think! Altering cut depth for the size of font - such an easy concept, but so easy to overlook on during programming! Thanks! Have you come across Valchromat or similar coloured MDFs? I don't know how much you play around with signs, but if you dislike colouring the cut out it could be something to look at - I use it a fair bit with veneers to expose a black coloured MDF and then the entire project can get a clear coat as a single process (unrequested knowledge dump over).
Thank you Adam for the suggestion. I have worked with 2 colored resin material that works using the same concept. I will check out Valchromat right now thx again
Thank you!
👍
very helpful, many thanks. I am using Edding CNC software with Fusion 360 which I see you using at times. There are very few examples of this combination so I would be very interested in any content showing how you use this.
Ok Alan … noted ! And thank you !
I need a small job doing please. I have only the one job (2 small 40mm brass engraved 'badges' 4mm thick at their thickest point, engraved lines 1mm deep) that needs doing, I can pay and supply materials. I can also supply diagrams and a B&W design (.pdf etc). Let me know. UK based. Reply if you can do this. Thanks.
I am confident you will find someone locally. Brass engraves easy. Check into some Facebook groups like cnc entrepreneurs they always like to pick up some work.
@@JBWorx I don't use social media (FB, TW, IG etc).
Well I am going to leave your comment posted here so if someone local to you reads it they can get in touch with you. Shipping from and to the US is rather cost prohibitive.