I’m now 89years old took me back to my early years. With Nikon F’s then Rolleiflex 2.8 E2 always used the Depth of field indicators, Then came Nikon F801s autofocus took over. Then digital auto focus, makes you lazy. Just bought a D700 so I can use my early ‘F’, lenses, live view and depth of field indication. Where and when did that silly word ‘Bokeh’(is spelling right) come in, us oldies have always called it depth of field and as you so eloquently described larger aperture less depth, you control exactly what you want in the picture, sharp or out of focus background many thanks for a very informative video presentation. Bob ‘R’
Hi Rob 'R"! Thank you for your post! 89! Wow! Hope I live that long! Bokeh I believe is a Japanese term, meaning "out of focus", hence bokeh balls being the round shapes that a lens with (typically) rounded blades yields for the out-of-focus areas in the image. I'm not sure who came up with the term, but bokehlicious was surely derived from that word! Take care!
Wow, so nice seeing a 90 yro Photography Enthusiast still embracing the hobby! Shows that Age is no limit for Photography, hope your descendents are into the hobby as well Have a great day, wishing you many more years ahead, Granpa Bob!
Regarding "hyperfocal distance" (HD), I recall my brother, who was a late-starter in photography, telling me he'd made a stunning discovery after reading some magazine article (mirrorless of course) about HD. Naturally, he downloaded the app you featured here and proceeded to demonstrate it to me in wonder. Unlike me, however, he buys very expensive modern lenses which almost always omit depth of field scales, as well as manual aperture control. I pointed him to my Nikkor AI-s lens' DoF scale, and that marked the end of his "new discovery". Crestfallen isn't really the word...
Super tutorial. I hope you have time for more videos like this one. AND a big thank you Frederick I received my D700 on Tuesday mainly due to your seductive videos of your experiences presented in your videos. Loving the camera. Thanks again and good luck in your endeavours whatever they may be. Tom UK
I just wanted to thank you Frederic for several things: first, that you have responded to my compatriot Federico with a first lesson in geography and then a class to understand the manual focus assist system. Also because it was your video about two years ago on the D700 titled "Thel legendary DSLR" that cleared my doubts to get to it. And then I also realized that you were right when I made a huge print like the ones you show and was amazed at how good it looks. For those things in life I'm going to live in Japan in a few months and one of the few things I'll take with me will be my D700 and some glasses.
Thank you for your kind words! Glad the videos were helpful! I have imported quite a number of lenses from Japan, and they have all been in tip top condition. I think it is true when they say that the Japanese take care of their camera gear extraordinarily well! Hope you will have a great time in Japan - it is an amazing country according to my eldest daughter (and she is not easy to impress!) - all the best!
Hi Fred! Merry Christmas & Happy New Year 2023! Thank you very much, for your contribution in world of photography. Being a Nikon shooter since 1980, your detailed illustrations & hands on instructions, is inspiring and very helping, indeed.(Got my Nikon D 700, way back Sept. 2018). I appreciate your sharing your knowledge. Kudos. Keep it up.
Very much enjoyed the video and information. Thank you. I have been buying some old Nikon AI-S lens and have been enjoying that aspect of photography with manual focus.
Thank you! Yes, manual mode is a great way to get to know both your camera and photography better. I often find that I sometimes get annoyed with the "hunting" of the AF system, and then I switch to manual and it is so much more relaxing. Take care!
I brought my D700 back in 2008 when first released. Haven’t used much in last 5 years. Was thinking about selling it for something more compact as that’s the reason I’m not using the D700, just too big and bringing lenses etc, so I don’t bring out with me for family days and walks etc. But since seeing your videos and the love on RUclips , Facebook for the D700… I’m not so sure now. Thanks from Ireland 🇮🇪
Craig, IMHO please wait before you sell the D700. I have the D750, D4, D700, Z50, Z6ii, Sony A7ii, Fujii XT20 and Sony RX100M3. I will tell you that the D700 is really a great camera, also in 2022! Not small and compact, but man you can get some great images with cheap vintage lenses that no other camera system offers. So please give the D700 a few weeks of shooting before you decide to let it go! It is a gem and grown men have cried over parting with their D700. All the best!
@@frederikboving That sounds like some advice from a man who knows his stuff. Well I’m going to get out and make some images with the D700 and rekindle my love of DSLR photography. Thanks for the encouragement. Will keep watching your channel for further inspiration my friend. Thanks
Thank you a lot. I know the existence of this focus ball but never know it also helps in MF mode. I will get in touch with some vintage lens asap. This is so interesting.
Thanks for another great video, and the geography lesson. One thing worth mentioning is the effect focal length has on depth of field, and also on the effect of camera shake when hand holding. Also, I've found what works best for me when using live view with my D700 is to assign one of the buttons to live view - I have assigned the AE-L for this purpose. Of course each to their own, but I seldom use exposure lock, and use back button focus. And greetings from New Zealand/Aotearoa, perhaps we are even further away from Denmark than Argentina is.
Thank you Carl! Looking at google maps, they estimate the travel time from Copenhagen to Wellington to be around 30 hours! So yes, I think New Zealand is a tad further away than Australia 🙂
Excellent as always Frederik! You have to do a video how Nikon DSLRs backfocus by default. I've learned to compensate by burst(3 clicks) shooting while simultaneously turning the focus ring left incrementally.
Thanks for sharing Michael! I have never noticed the backfocus that you mention, although I have heard several talk about it. Sounds like you found a good technique to circumvent the issue! Take care!
I am just starting to use legacy Nikon lenses on my digital cameras. This video was very helpful to me especially since you compared the AF indicators to the live view. Thank you!
@@frederikboving i subscribed to your channel. It's refreshing to see someone use the gear they have at hand and do the best with it. Too much time and effort are spent on the latest and greatest. Meanwhile, good enough is passed off as old and no longer of value. I'm kind of old and I don't like that idea! Take care, Joseph Murphy 🙂
@@josephmurphy3685 Thank you Joseph! Yes, I may not have many principles or core values on this channel, but one of them is that I only test gear that I have been able to hold in my hand and test and assess with a first hand experience! I am no longer 17 either, so I guess I am put in the "good enough" basket (= old) as well 🙂
Gracias Frederik for the video. I am also from Argentina and a proud owner of a D700 (most photos of my IG were taken with this camera). And you are very welcome to our country. I only have two manual lenses , the 200m F4 AI and 80-200 F/4.5 N and found no problems with manual focus. Hope this video helps Federico and the rest. Take care and good luck!
This is helpful. I bought my first DSLR recently - a D300 - and find it much more difficult to manually focus than the old split prisms in film cameras. Mine doesn’t have live view but I can take a picture and zoom in to check the sharpness. Also, you can buy viewfinder magnifiers for old DSLRs - if you love the camera and intend to shoot with it a while it is probably worth it.
the d300 definitely has live view. its the next setting after Continuous High. but it is easier to use with a tripod as you have to use the zoom buttons to manual focus well. handheld, its fairly useless.
Very informative and useful! I've subscribed to your channel. I was happy to acquire a D700 in very good condition a couple of months ago for a reasonable sum of money. It is my first full-frame camera and I love the quality of the output. 12 mp is enough for me.
Thanks for sharing John! And welcome to the channel! I was out shooting with the d700 today and still love that camera although I have much more modern cameras ❤️
Frederick I have a D750 and a D850 and among my lenses is a t least 6-7 AI-S lenses and one thing I've found is that the focusing screen of my 750 is a lot easier to manually focus with that the screen of the 850. Neither is as easy as when I shot film with the microprism ring or a split-image finder or a coarser ground glass but for me at least the difference in what was standard in the two cameras is noticeable. Perhaps Frederico could try a different body (borrow, lease, ?) just to see. Your assessment of the benefits of shooting "old style" is absolutely correct. Having learned that way I run into folks half my age or less that are lost without the automatic technology.
Thank you James, will pass on this advice to @fredericodignani - it is a good idea to test a different camera body and see if that makes any difference. All the best!
Thanks James, I will borrow another (camera) body and do what you recommend. You are really kind to share this advice with us, take care and good luck!
Spent the whole day with my D4 and 24 2.8 ais a few weeks back no problems with m/f ,the lenses are a pleasure use and create stunning images ,i recommend experimenting with the metering modes ,the results can be quite interesting
Manual focus with indicators vs live view. I own many Nikons from D200 to D800 and the indicators are always off. All were purchased new. Perfect focus is best achieved in the transition from dot to center starting from infinity. I fixed some of the pro cameras by adjusting the mirror height. Easy with a pro camera, but amateur models you need to use shims. Live view is always correct no matter what you see in viewfinder because that is exactly what the camera will record. It is a shame they did not or could not retain the beautiful focus screens of F1 & F2 models. This was very expensive to make when you see it, so cost savings rules.
Wow! You have certainly been into the technical details of manual focus! I have not noticed these issues, probably because I often shoot at an aperture where there is some forgiveness in the circle of confusion! All the best!
I have to disagree about Manual Focus for still objects. I use and train myself regularly to use manual focus for moving objects. Using your insight analogy for using manual focus pertains to shooting action as well and does extend to shooting action with manual focus. You will find especially in lower light manual can be faster than autofocus. Also autofocus was not invented when photography was born. You shot manual. It wasn't until the 80's it really became a solid option. The reward you get when you become so proficient as to focus on something running directly at you is very gratifying and confidence building. I will be having videos on this later myself. The camera is a machine. Mastering it's functions is key and can be done with practice. It's also less complicated as you automatically do something without thought. In fact, it would be ideal if we said OK, to meet the minimum criteria as a professional you must be able to shoot manual focus and manual mode of a person walking at you in three different lighting scenarios. Minimum score is 60% of the photos must be exposed and in focus. Wait there is more. Now that you're a pro are you an artist, illustrator or photojournalist. Do you have the skills and knowledge of the subject that enable you to express the story where it makes people stop and say, "What am I really looking at?" You won't be able to make this kind of picture on purpose without understanding and practicing your photo skills. It can happen by accident, but you will starve to death. You must know or at least want to learn about your subject. Devise a photo-session plan. Keep in mind you don't have to stick to it especially if learn some new and better insight about your subject. You won't be thinking about how to take the photo. You will be thinking about taking the photo. The feeling you get at these moments is the "gestalt" of the entire process. A true sense of "ah".
Thank you Christopher, you have clearly invested more time and energy into shooting with manual focus than me, and thank you for your enthusiasm! I hope others will read your good post here and that it can serve as inspiration for many photographers! All the best!
There are many features and techniques to assist manual focusing, given all kinds of cameras that photographers are using, situations and photographer's individuality. But its success can be achieved with a pair of young eyes & 20/20 vision, use the best/right focusing aid (e.g., different focusing screen, split-image/micro-prism, focus confirmation, peak focusing, magnification, manual lens AF adapter), DOF, substitute focusing, etc. The easiest is to use zone focusing, the focusing for dummy method (set the camera-to-subject distance by the symbol scale 🙂). But for photographers, it can be from experience or natural talent that one can guess/judge the appropriate distance. Also and if possible for events, one can pre-focus beforehand and saved the distance information. I remember one of the techniques used to shoot among a crowd in the past, was to shoot above our heads using a pre-focused WA lens (for better coverage with DOF) and motor drive. Similar to using a focusing loupe with LF and flip up magnifier with MF film cameras, an optional magnifier for the DSLR LCD & OVF and zoom in feature with EVF can be an asset. One doesn't have to focus onto the subject under dim or difficult situations, but instead focus onto some other straight line/high contrast object of equal distance. Then use DOF to cover the delta. Like event photographers move along with the subject to maintain the scale when shooting with a prime lens, we can move with the subject to maintain focus distance too, such as focus onto a couple before they start dancing and 'dance' with them to keep the same distance. It will become second nature after years/decades of practices liked we did back then that mirrors today's digital photographers' muscle memories of which focusing mode/point to select and (function) button to press. Of course, don't forget they are perishable skills that need constant practice.
Hyperfocal distance is not complicated. The hyperfocal distance in your example is the distance at what you call focal plane. In other words it is the focus distance you have set on the lens and gives you the depth of field as per the aperture you are using the appropriate colour markings on the lens as you have shown. Before autofocus lots of cheaper cameras had fixed focus wide angle lenses with a few limited focus distances and prioritised infinity as the furthest focus distance and told the user which setting would give everything from about 6 feet to infinity. Used effectively you can set your lens to infinity at the furthest colour distance mark on the lens at forget focusing. Works better on wider lenses with greater depth of field though! Hope that makes sense! 🤘😁📷👍
Hi Simon, no hyperfocal distance and focal plane are not the same. You can put the focal plane at the hyper focal distance, but your can also put it at many other positions, ranging from the closest focus distance of the lens to infinity. But your point about using DOF the best way possible by I think I understand, i.e. that you waste the far end of the DOF if you focus to infinity. So you to make the best use of the DOF, you should have the far end of the DOF exactly touch infinity = the hyper focal distance. That can be found with the markings on the lens at a given aperture as you say.
@@frederikboving Yes - I know the focal plane and the hyperfocal distance are different. It’s just that you used that term in your video. It all relates to the laws of physics regarding depth of field and aperture and focusing distance. I have been using these principles for many years (I started taking pictures 66 years ago) and consider this to be one of the fundamentals of photography which everybody should know. Unfortunately autofocus concentrates on the focus point and that is only one factor in the equation and, in my opinion, can overlook this important aspect. All the best, Simon 🤘😁📷👍
@@simonbroke-smith7783 Ok, then I misunderstood your first comment. And yes, the physics regarding DOF and focal plane and aperture are vital if you really want to come home with the results you want to. All the best!
I use manual focus lenses on my d7000 a lot . even though the crop sensors have smaller screen but with practice we can take shot even in street photography . Focusing with LEDs in viewfinder is a little tricky and frustrating for casual photography . I focus with whole screen and in bright light it's not difficult . Another thing to focusing with manual focus lenses is to use one of your eyes with better sight . I always use my right eye for photography but for manual focusing , my left eye has better far sight . Manual focus lenses are cheaper with very good optical quality .
Thank you Frederico! And you here in Denmark! I hope the video was useful. Hope you'll notice the comment from James Oliver, he suggests that you try to borrow another camera body and see if the manual focus gets better with that camera. His point is that he notices significant differences between different cameras. All the best!
@@frederikboving I will follow the advice of the fellow suscriber and see what I get. I've learned a lot of things of MF in DSLR from your video, I'm extremely thankful, now it's time to grab the camera and keep shooting. Best regards!
@@federicodignani2457 Thank you Frederico - best of luck! And please let me know if you run into new things to be explored on this channel - happy to help if I can. Take care!
Hi! It's me again. Today I got my d700 finally and wanted to ask, I tried continuous shooting (fps) and it works well but that's without flash. But than when I shoot with flash it only takes one picture and that's all.
@UCOW%F0%9F%99%82%F0%9F%99%82uWyYuCpLmgl5R5gu7oxA ruclips.net/video/q6TzQpCqxWQ/видео.html - here it is. Hope it is helpful, otherwise you know where to find me 🙂
No. I feel very convinced that Per Bak Jensen (the photographer of the B&W image last in the video) does not use such techniques. I doubt he post processes at all other than maybe cropping the image.
Hi! I have a D700 and have a focusing problem with manual lenses. I focusing on a subject with the viewfinder and the sharpness is not here where i see in the wiewfinder. I see it sharp in the viewfinder but on the picture i took the focus is in the background.
It could be the diopter adjustment that is causing the problem: see if the little +/- dial top right on the side of the viewfinder is set to either direction. You can also try to focus in Live View mode and see if you get different results from when using the viewfinder. A third option is to try several different lenses and see if the manual focus issue os constant across the board.
@@frederikboving Learned manual the hard way, before digital and autofocus. Looking back at fast action basketball pictures of my kids I wonder now how I was able to get them in focus. Burned a lot of film by buying Ectachrome in bulk, loading cassettes and doing my own E6 processing. Bottom line: PRACTICE.
@@frederikboving I will get one with 6x magnification and 4-500m. They are not too expensive. Thanks for the D700 information you are helping me to get used to that camera. What about using a magnification eyepiece DK-17M. Nikon do not make it anymore.
@@thomaseriksson6256 Right. The DK-17M is a headache. A few years back there were some "pockets" in China where you via e-bay could get a fresh copy, but I think they have run out a long time ago unfortunately. And Nikon is not producing them anymore. So I think the only viable option is to get a used copy unfortunately. Best /frederik
@@frederikboving My way forward is that I got the D700 to replace my D300 that broke last year and I got a good one that year. This year I got a good D800E but it lacked the MB-D12 and now I'm saving for a 2nd hand D850. I need to upgrade to Zoom lenses as AFS 24-70F2.8 E VR and AFS 70mm-200mmF2.8 E VR and a 2nd hand tele lens AFS 400mmF2.8 G VR. But I’m on a tight budget and I need some Magnetic filter and a panorama head too. I only have Nikon and Zeiss prime lenses today.
Too complicated for me, guess afs lens is a hugh diffrent. Reson use lens d in 2022 for value or old man preffer old style hehe. Actually d have some special lens, like 135 mm f/2.0 D and 105 f2.0 that the only lens i knew. Afs only have 105 2.8. Now we have sigma 135 f1.8 but not in the past. Zoom lens d is kinda cheap special zoom lens 200 f4 or 2.8. It dont have nano i guess, but with price 1/2 it okay. I got 18-35 afd 3.5-4.5 for only 130 usd, cant complaint any things. The cheapest wide lens 2nd afs now at least 300 usd with ff, or some cheap china MF prime . Only problems with afd is no vr, so it not good for low light, but prime lens 1.8 can fix that. Prime lens is best option for afd, 50-85-105-135, super cheap and small. not recomend afd 2.8, but if want exp more kind of lens with good P/P, lens d is fine. Again, a good picture require good skill, not good camera. A special image with new angle, focal with open mind is what a photographer require( i am saving money for d810 haha)
Any way, with your collection of camera, u can make some special video that dont have in youtube about comparison. Like AF speed, live view dslr vs miroless, video quality-af, iso test, compair resolution-zoom with landscape/poraits even your dog/cat if u have. Then dinamic rangs, comparison about white balance, how good it can change expourse and keep detail. There are infinite of things can do, even comparison about lens, then teach us about shutter speed landscape, sport, wide ... ALL of those video in youtube kinda rare. U maybe can get 50k-100 sub, if lucky someday u can live with it, use money from youtube buy more camera/lens
I’m now 89years old took me back to my early years. With Nikon F’s then Rolleiflex 2.8 E2 always used the Depth of field indicators, Then came Nikon F801s autofocus took over. Then digital auto focus, makes you lazy. Just bought a D700 so I can use my early ‘F’, lenses, live view and depth of field indication. Where and when did that silly word ‘Bokeh’(is spelling right) come in, us oldies have always called it depth of field and as you so eloquently described larger aperture less depth, you control exactly what you want in the picture, sharp or out of focus background many thanks for a very informative video presentation. Bob ‘R’
Hi Rob 'R"! Thank you for your post! 89! Wow! Hope I live that long! Bokeh I believe is a Japanese term, meaning "out of focus", hence bokeh balls being the round shapes that a lens with (typically) rounded blades yields for the out-of-focus areas in the image. I'm not sure who came up with the term, but bokehlicious was surely derived from that word! Take care!
Wow, so nice seeing a 90 yro Photography Enthusiast still embracing the hobby! Shows that Age is no limit for Photography, hope your descendents are into the hobby as well
Have a great day, wishing you many more years ahead, Granpa Bob!
One of the best descriptions on focusing I have seen! Amazing job!
Thank you for your kind words!
The photo comparison between focusing using the in-focus indicator and the live view was incredibly helpful! Thank you for this video!
Thank you Evelyn" Great the video was useful! 🙂
As always very instructive Frederik. More D700 videos are welcome! Cheers ^ ^
Thank you! Will do my best! Take care!
I've watched hundreds of you tube videos. You are the only one to show the lenses markings for depth of field. 😮😲😯👍👍👍🙌🙌🙌
Thank you Christopher! Much appreciated!
Regarding "hyperfocal distance" (HD), I recall my brother, who was a late-starter in photography, telling me he'd made a stunning discovery after reading some magazine article (mirrorless of course) about HD. Naturally, he downloaded the app you featured here and proceeded to demonstrate it to me in wonder. Unlike me, however, he buys very expensive modern lenses which almost always omit depth of field scales, as well as manual aperture control. I pointed him to my Nikkor AI-s lens' DoF scale, and that marked the end of his "new discovery". Crestfallen isn't really the word...
😀 - your story reminds me how I miss the distance and DOF scale on my more modern lenses, but what can you do? I'll keep my older lenses....
Super tutorial. I hope you have time for more videos like this one. AND a big thank you Frederick I received my D700 on Tuesday mainly due to your seductive videos of your experiences presented in your videos. Loving the camera. Thanks again and good luck in your endeavours whatever they may be. Tom UK
Thank you for your kind words Tom - much appreciated!
I just wanted to thank you Frederic for several things: first, that you have responded to my compatriot Federico with a first lesson in geography and then a class to understand the manual focus assist system. Also because it was your video about two years ago on the D700 titled "Thel legendary DSLR" that cleared my doubts to get to it. And then I also realized that you were right when I made a huge print like the ones you show and was amazed at how good it looks. For those things in life I'm going to live in Japan in a few months and one of the few things I'll take with me will be my D700 and some glasses.
Thank you for your kind words! Glad the videos were helpful! I have imported quite a number of lenses from Japan, and they have all been in tip top condition. I think it is true when they say that the Japanese take care of their camera gear extraordinarily well! Hope you will have a great time in Japan - it is an amazing country according to my eldest daughter (and she is not easy to impress!) - all the best!
Hi Fred! Merry Christmas & Happy New Year 2023! Thank you very much, for your contribution in world of photography. Being a Nikon shooter since 1980, your detailed illustrations & hands on instructions, is inspiring and very helping, indeed.(Got my Nikon D 700, way back Sept. 2018). I appreciate your sharing your knowledge. Kudos. Keep it up.
Thank you for your kind words! Will do my very best! :-)
Very much enjoyed the video and information. Thank you. I have been buying some old Nikon AI-S lens and have been enjoying that aspect of photography with manual focus.
Thank you! Yes, manual mode is a great way to get to know both your camera and photography better. I often find that I sometimes get annoyed with the "hunting" of the AF system, and then I switch to manual and it is so much more relaxing. Take care!
I brought my D700 back in 2008 when first released. Haven’t used much in last 5 years. Was thinking about selling it for something more compact as that’s the reason I’m not using the D700, just too big and bringing lenses etc, so I don’t bring out with me for family days and walks etc. But since seeing your videos and the love on RUclips , Facebook for the D700… I’m not so sure now. Thanks from Ireland 🇮🇪
Craig, IMHO please wait before you sell the D700. I have the D750, D4, D700, Z50, Z6ii, Sony A7ii, Fujii XT20 and Sony RX100M3. I will tell you that the D700 is really a great camera, also in 2022! Not small and compact, but man you can get some great images with cheap vintage lenses that no other camera system offers. So please give the D700 a few weeks of shooting before you decide to let it go! It is a gem and grown men have cried over parting with their D700. All the best!
@@frederikboving That sounds like some advice from a man who knows his stuff. Well I’m going to get out and make some images with the D700 and rekindle my love of DSLR photography. Thanks for the encouragement. Will keep watching your channel for further inspiration my friend. Thanks
@@craigtechno Thank you - much appreciated!
Thank you! You taught me how to use the arrows! Very helpful!
Glad the video was useful 🤗
Thank you a lot. I know the existence of this focus ball but never know it also helps in MF mode. I will get in touch with some vintage lens asap. This is so interesting.
Thank you! And good luck with manual focus!
Thanks for another great video, and the geography lesson. One thing worth mentioning is the effect focal length has on depth of field, and also on the effect of camera shake when hand holding. Also, I've found what works best for me when using live view with my D700 is to assign one of the buttons to live view - I have assigned the AE-L for this purpose. Of course each to their own, but I seldom use exposure lock, and use back button focus.
And greetings from New Zealand/Aotearoa, perhaps we are even further away from Denmark than Argentina is.
Thank you Carl! Looking at google maps, they estimate the travel time from Copenhagen to Wellington to be around 30 hours! So yes, I think New Zealand is a tad further away than Australia 🙂
Excellent as always Frederik! You have to do a video how Nikon DSLRs backfocus by default. I've learned to compensate by burst(3 clicks) shooting while simultaneously turning the focus ring left incrementally.
Thanks for sharing Michael! I have never noticed the backfocus that you mention, although I have heard several talk about it. Sounds like you found a good technique to circumvent the issue! Take care!
I am just starting to use legacy Nikon lenses on my digital cameras. This video was very helpful to me especially since you compared the AF indicators to the live view. Thank you!
Thank you Joseph! A few more videos that I hope you will find useful: ruclips.net/p/PLPjooVCTLG910wkb8TMrajbIHmA54MJ-A - all the best!
@@frederikboving i subscribed to your channel. It's refreshing to see someone use the gear they have at hand and do the best with it. Too much time and effort are spent on the latest and greatest. Meanwhile, good enough is passed off as old and no longer of value. I'm kind of old and I don't like that idea! Take care, Joseph Murphy 🙂
@@josephmurphy3685 Thank you Joseph! Yes, I may not have many principles or core values on this channel, but one of them is that I only test gear that I have been able to hold in my hand and test and assess with a first hand experience! I am no longer 17 either, so I guess I am put in the "good enough" basket (= old) as well 🙂
You're a star mate.
Thanks for all your videos.
Thank you! Munch appreciated!
Thank you so much Frederick. This was so helpful.
Thank you for your kind words Derrick! Much appreciated! Take care! 🙏
Gracias Frederik for the video. I am also from Argentina and a proud owner of a D700 (most photos of my IG were taken with this camera). And you are very welcome to our country. I only have two manual lenses , the 200m F4 AI and 80-200 F/4.5 N and found no problems with manual focus. Hope this video helps Federico and the rest. Take care and good luck!
Thank you Daniel - much appreciated!
This is helpful. I bought my first DSLR recently - a D300 - and find it much more difficult to manually focus than the old split prisms in film cameras. Mine doesn’t have live view but I can take a picture and zoom in to check the sharpness. Also, you can buy viewfinder magnifiers for old DSLRs - if you love the camera and intend to shoot with it a while it is probably worth it.
the d300 definitely has live view. its the next setting after Continuous High. but it is easier to use with a tripod as you have to use the zoom buttons to manual focus well.
handheld, its fairly useless.
Thank you John - much appreciated! @Jamesoliver has exactly the same observation. Will pass it on to Frederico.
Very informative and useful! I've subscribed to your channel. I was happy to acquire a D700 in very good condition a couple of months ago for a reasonable sum of money. It is my first full-frame camera and I love the quality of the output. 12 mp is enough for me.
Thanks for sharing John! And welcome to the channel! I was out shooting with the d700 today and still love that camera although I have much more modern cameras ❤️
Excellent information as always 👍
🙏🏻
Frederick I have a D750 and a D850 and among my lenses is a t least 6-7 AI-S lenses and one thing I've found is that the focusing screen of my 750 is a lot easier to manually focus with that the screen of the 850. Neither is as easy as when I shot film with the microprism ring or a split-image finder or a coarser ground glass but for me at least the difference in what was standard in the two cameras is noticeable. Perhaps Frederico could try a different body (borrow, lease, ?) just to see. Your assessment of the benefits of shooting "old style" is absolutely correct. Having learned that way I run into folks half my age or less that are lost without the automatic technology.
Thank you James, will pass on this advice to @fredericodignani - it is a good idea to test a different camera body and see if that makes any difference. All the best!
Thanks James, I will borrow another (camera) body and do what you recommend. You are really kind to share this advice with us, take care and good luck!
Thank you. Learnt a great deal about manual focusing. Moe D700 videos please
Thank you! Will do my best! Take care!
Spent the whole day with my D4 and 24 2.8 ais a few weeks back no problems with m/f ,the lenses are a pleasure use and create stunning images ,i recommend experimenting with the metering modes ,the results can be quite interesting
Thank you for sharing Dan! Yes, the D4 is a wonderful camera - it never talks back, it just does exactly what you ask it to. I really like it.
Manual focus with indicators vs live view. I own many Nikons from D200 to D800 and the indicators are always off. All were purchased new. Perfect focus is best achieved in the transition from dot to center starting from infinity. I fixed some of the pro cameras by adjusting the mirror height. Easy with a pro camera, but amateur models you need to use shims. Live view is always correct no matter what you see in viewfinder because that is exactly what the camera will record.
It is a shame they did not or could not retain the beautiful focus screens of F1 & F2 models. This was very expensive to make when you see it, so cost savings rules.
Wow! You have certainly been into the technical details of manual focus! I have not noticed these issues, probably because I often shoot at an aperture where there is some forgiveness in the circle of confusion! All the best!
D700, Still my favorite camera!
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I have to disagree about Manual Focus for still objects. I use and train myself regularly to use manual focus for moving objects. Using your insight analogy for using manual focus pertains to shooting action as well and does extend to shooting action with manual focus. You will find especially in lower light manual can be faster than autofocus. Also autofocus was not invented when photography was born. You shot manual. It wasn't until the 80's it really became a solid option. The reward you get when you become so proficient as to focus on something running directly at you is very gratifying and confidence building. I will be having videos on this later myself. The camera is a machine. Mastering it's functions is key and can be done with practice. It's also less complicated as you automatically do something without thought. In fact, it would be ideal if we said OK, to meet the minimum criteria as a professional you must be able to shoot manual focus and manual mode of a person walking at you in three different lighting scenarios. Minimum score is 60% of the photos must be exposed and in focus. Wait there is more.
Now that you're a pro are you an artist, illustrator or photojournalist. Do you have the skills and knowledge of the subject that enable you to express the story where it makes people stop and say, "What am I really looking at?" You won't be able to make this kind of picture on purpose without understanding and practicing your photo skills. It can happen by accident, but you will starve to death. You must know or at least want to learn about your subject. Devise a photo-session plan. Keep in mind you don't have to stick to it especially if learn some new and better insight about your subject. You won't be thinking about how to take the photo. You will be thinking about taking the photo. The feeling you get at these moments is the "gestalt" of the entire process. A true sense of "ah".
Thank you Christopher, you have clearly invested more time and energy into shooting with manual focus than me, and thank you for your enthusiasm! I hope others will read your good post here and that it can serve as inspiration for many photographers! All the best!
There are many features and techniques to assist manual focusing, given all kinds of cameras that photographers are using, situations and photographer's individuality. But its success can be achieved with a pair of young eyes & 20/20 vision, use the best/right focusing aid (e.g., different focusing screen, split-image/micro-prism, focus confirmation, peak focusing, magnification, manual lens AF adapter), DOF, substitute focusing, etc.
The easiest is to use zone focusing, the focusing for dummy method (set the camera-to-subject distance by the symbol scale 🙂). But for photographers, it can be from experience or natural talent that one can guess/judge the appropriate distance.
Also and if possible for events, one can pre-focus beforehand and saved the distance information. I remember one of the techniques used to shoot among a crowd in the past, was to shoot above our heads using a pre-focused WA lens (for better coverage with DOF) and motor drive.
Similar to using a focusing loupe with LF and flip up magnifier with MF film cameras, an optional magnifier for the DSLR LCD & OVF and zoom in feature with EVF can be an asset.
One doesn't have to focus onto the subject under dim or difficult situations, but instead focus onto some other straight line/high contrast object of equal distance. Then use DOF to cover the delta.
Like event photographers move along with the subject to maintain the scale when shooting with a prime lens, we can move with the subject to maintain focus distance too, such as focus onto a couple before they start dancing and 'dance' with them to keep the same distance.
It will become second nature after years/decades of practices liked we did back then that mirrors today's digital photographers' muscle memories of which focusing mode/point to select and (function) button to press. Of course, don't forget they are perishable skills that need constant practice.
Thank you for sharing BFS - interesting read as always! All the best!
Outstanding!
Excellent tutorial
Thank you Paul - much appreciated!
Hyperfocal distance is not complicated. The hyperfocal distance in your example is the distance at what you call focal plane. In other words it is the focus distance you have set on the lens and gives you the depth of field as per the aperture you are using the appropriate colour markings on the lens as you have shown. Before autofocus lots of cheaper cameras had fixed focus wide angle lenses with a few limited focus distances and prioritised infinity as the furthest focus distance and told the user which setting would give everything from about 6 feet to infinity. Used effectively you can set your lens to infinity at the furthest colour distance mark on the lens at forget focusing. Works better on wider lenses with greater depth of field though!
Hope that makes sense!
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Hi Simon, no hyperfocal distance and focal plane are not the same. You can put the focal plane at the hyper focal distance, but your can also put it at many other positions, ranging from the closest focus distance of the lens to infinity. But your point about using DOF the best way possible by I think I understand, i.e. that you waste the far end of the DOF if you focus to infinity. So you to make the best use of the DOF, you should have the far end of the DOF exactly touch infinity = the hyper focal distance. That can be found with the markings on the lens at a given aperture as you say.
@@frederikboving Yes - I know the focal plane and the hyperfocal distance are different. It’s just that you used that term in your video. It all relates to the laws of physics regarding depth of field and aperture and focusing distance. I have been using these principles for many years (I started taking pictures 66 years ago) and consider this to be one of the fundamentals of photography which everybody should know. Unfortunately autofocus concentrates on the focus point and that is only one factor in the equation and, in my opinion, can overlook this important aspect. All the best, Simon
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@@simonbroke-smith7783 Ok, then I misunderstood your first comment. And yes, the physics regarding DOF and focal plane and aperture are vital if you really want to come home with the results you want to. All the best!
I use manual focus lenses on my d7000 a lot . even though the crop sensors have smaller screen but with practice we can take shot even in street photography . Focusing with LEDs in viewfinder is a little tricky and frustrating for casual photography . I focus with whole screen and in bright light it's not difficult . Another thing to focusing with manual focus lenses is to use one of your eyes with better sight . I always use my right eye for photography but for manual focusing , my left eye has better far sight .
Manual focus lenses are cheaper with very good optical quality .
Thank you for sharing Mohammad!
SImplesmemte, MUITO OBRIGADO.
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excellent Video, many thanks!
Thank you Martin - much appreciated!
Thanks a lot for this personalized video!! You are welcomed in my region for a photo safari!
Thank you Frederico! And you here in Denmark! I hope the video was useful. Hope you'll notice the comment from James Oliver, he suggests that you try to borrow another camera body and see if the manual focus gets better with that camera. His point is that he notices significant differences between different cameras. All the best!
@@frederikboving I will follow the advice of the fellow suscriber and see what I get. I've learned a lot of things of MF in DSLR from your video, I'm extremely thankful, now it's time to grab the camera and keep shooting. Best regards!
@@federicodignani2457 Thank you Frederico - best of luck! And please let me know if you run into new things to be explored on this channel - happy to help if I can. Take care!
Subscribed!
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Excellent
Thank you Stephen!
i shoot manual with my 1.4 teleconverter and its worth the extra reach and experience
Thanks for sharing!
Hi!
It's me again.
Today I got my d700 finally and wanted to ask, I tried continuous shooting (fps) and it works well but that's without flash. But than when I shoot with flash it only takes one picture and that's all.
Assume you are shooting with the built in flash?
@@frederikboving yes, I didn't tried with external flash, because I didn't charge the battery of flash, but I have external flash.
@@draganmisic6010 Dragan - video on this subject on its way!
@@frederikboving Great man, you are really amazing
@UCOW%F0%9F%99%82%F0%9F%99%82uWyYuCpLmgl5R5gu7oxA ruclips.net/video/q6TzQpCqxWQ/видео.html - here it is. Hope it is helpful, otherwise you know where to find me 🙂
Could the last photo be an example of focus stacking in post processing?
No. I feel very convinced that Per Bak Jensen (the photographer of the B&W image last in the video) does not use such techniques. I doubt he post processes at all other than maybe cropping the image.
@@frederikboving that is quite impressive! Thanks
Hi! I have a D700 and have a focusing problem with manual lenses. I focusing on a subject with the viewfinder and the sharpness is not here where i see in the wiewfinder. I see it sharp in the viewfinder but on the picture i took the focus is in the background.
It could be the diopter adjustment that is causing the problem: see if the little +/- dial top right on the side of the viewfinder is set to either direction. You can also try to focus in Live View mode and see if you get different results from when using the viewfinder. A third option is to try several different lenses and see if the manual focus issue os constant across the board.
I have been trying the diopter dial, but i cant find a good position. On my D3300 the focus is perfect on the live view and on the viewfinder too.
Focussing screen! ;-)
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Looks like it was shot on f32 on a Manual Focus Lens and on Manual in the Camera?
Sorry, what does "it" refer to?
Let me guess, In professional life you have been a teacher? Few are able to communicate so much information in such a clear a understandable manner.
Thank you Gary - it is very kind of you! No, not much teaching experience unfortunately 😀
@@frederikboving Learned manual the hard way, before digital and autofocus. Looking back at fast action basketball pictures of my kids I wonder now how I was able to get them in focus. Burned a lot of film by buying Ectachrome in bulk, loading cassettes and doing my own E6 processing. Bottom line: PRACTICE.
@@garymc8956 Agreed. Practice makes perfect. Take care Gary!
get a laser distance meter for hunting.
Thin actually I have one for DYI work - need to check the reach of that thing! Thanks!
@@frederikboving I will get one with 6x magnification and 4-500m. They are not too expensive. Thanks for the D700 information you are helping me to get used to that camera. What about using a magnification eyepiece DK-17M. Nikon do not make it anymore.
@@thomaseriksson6256 Right. The DK-17M is a headache. A few years back there were some "pockets" in China where you via e-bay could get a fresh copy, but I think they have run out a long time ago unfortunately. And Nikon is not producing them anymore. So I think the only viable option is to get a used copy unfortunately. Best /frederik
@@frederikboving My way forward is that I got the D700 to replace my D300 that broke last year and I got a good one that year. This year I got a good D800E but it lacked the MB-D12 and now I'm saving for a 2nd hand D850. I need to upgrade to Zoom lenses as AFS 24-70F2.8 E VR and AFS 70mm-200mmF2.8 E VR and a 2nd hand tele lens AFS 400mmF2.8 G VR. But I’m on a tight budget and I need some Magnetic filter and a panorama head too. I only have Nikon and Zeiss prime lenses today.
@@thomaseriksson6256 Right. Must admit that I have never tried magnetic filters. And neither a panorama head. Best /frederik
Too complicated for me, guess afs lens is a hugh diffrent. Reson use lens d in 2022 for value or old man preffer old style hehe. Actually d have some special lens, like 135 mm f/2.0 D and 105 f2.0 that the only lens i knew. Afs only have 105 2.8. Now we have sigma 135 f1.8 but not in the past. Zoom lens d is kinda cheap special zoom lens 200 f4 or 2.8. It dont have nano i guess, but with price 1/2 it okay. I got 18-35 afd 3.5-4.5 for only 130 usd, cant complaint any things. The cheapest wide lens 2nd afs now at least 300 usd with ff, or some cheap china MF prime . Only problems with afd is no vr, so it not good for low light, but prime lens 1.8 can fix that. Prime lens is best option for afd, 50-85-105-135, super cheap and small. not recomend afd 2.8, but if want exp more kind of lens with good P/P, lens d is fine. Again, a good picture require good skill, not good camera. A special image with new angle, focal with open mind is what a photographer require( i am saving money for d810 haha)
Any way, with your collection of camera, u can make some special video that dont have in youtube about comparison. Like AF speed, live view dslr vs miroless, video quality-af, iso test, compair resolution-zoom with landscape/poraits even your dog/cat if u have. Then dinamic rangs, comparison about white balance, how good it can change expourse and keep detail. There are infinite of things can do, even comparison about lens, then teach us about shutter speed landscape, sport, wide ... ALL of those video in youtube kinda rare. U maybe can get 50k-100 sub, if lucky someday u can live with it, use money from youtube buy more camera/lens
Thank you for sharing! And good luck with your hopefully upcoming D810! All the best!