Simple and to the point instructions, thankyou. I have only just started using a Nikon D700 in 2023 and only have AI/AIS lenses so far. The Fn + Command dial setting is a big plus for me and immediately set that up while watching. Good work !
Excellent. I've been using my vintage Nikon glass on modern bodies for years and never knew about the function button option. For a person who's never been taken through how this works, this is everything you need to know. And you can assemble a huge array of lenses for every need at a fraction of what you'd pay for modern ones and not sacrifice a bit of image quality.
Great to see someone encouraging the use of those wonderful old lenses. The "rabbit ears" shown were from a Ai/Ais lens - the pre ai lenses had solid rabbit ears.
Good spot! Thanks for that - I'm not a manual lens expert by any means but it's clear that Nikon totally nailed optical quality across the 35mm/FX format around the era of AI-S. Although AF, AF-S and VR are great fun and indispensable in some situations, there's no doubt where the best optical quality per pound/euro/dollar lies, especially considering the almost giveaway prices of some manual lenses.
The holes in the “rabbit ears” were an evolution from the earlier solid prongs. The reason for the holes is to let more light onto the aperture scale on the lens throat nearest the amount. Cameras such as the FM and its successors have a small window at the bottom of the pentaprism through which these aperture values are read and displayed in the viewfinder. A simple optical solution to providing viewfinder information.
A lot of people are complaining about how fast you were talking. I thought you were quick and informative, keeping the video under 10 minutes. Folks don't realize, but they could always slow down the video if they need to. Often times, I need to speed up videos because folks are talking too slow!
Oh man this was so helpful. Thanks so much. Bought a used D610 some months back and I love it. Just bought my first two Ai lenses. A 16mm f3.5 and and a 500mm f8 Reflex. I know from one extreme to another ha ha. Been using pentax manual lenses on my pentax dslr's for years but this is my first foray with Nikon. Thanks again.
I didn't know there was a way to manually focus through the viewfinder. I have been Eyeballing this ais lens on my d40 and struggling to get the focus. HOLY SMOKES thank you so much!
This video has everything I was looking for on the subject. Well done! I have a 35mm f/1.4 and a 55mm f/1.2, both pre-AI, that I have enjoyed on film bodies. I am now looking to acquire a used full frame body to make use of these lenses. In a few minutes this video answered all of my questions.
Thank you. COVID 19 has me more or less housebound, like everyone else, and I decided to do some experimenting with my D750. I started playing with the old FE lenses. Then I ordered and received a factory Ai converted 105mm f2.5 (sonnar) and a factory Ai converted 135mm f 3.5 (sonnar). All 5 are entered as non-cpu lenses now, and I have reset my Fn button as you described. Very handy. Tomorrow, weather permitting, I’m going to go outside and take some photos with the new lenses.
Lenses that have stayed in the collection and every Nikon fanatic should own: -20mm f4 (an image so distortion free, you'll delete photoshop) -28mm f2.8 Ai-s (distortion free, wide angle macro that always delivers an amazing background) -50mm f1.8 Ai pancake -105mm f1.8 Ai-s, more compression over the 85mm iterations, better bokeh -135mm f2 Ai-s, just because. Honourable mentions: -105mm f2.8 Ai-s macro. Damn good. -180mm f2.8 ED AI-s. Ditto.
@Peter C I had actually the AF screw version, that went 1:1. It's f stop gets pretty small at 1:1. I also had the 105 and 180. Darn good lenses on full frame. I regret selling my user 180mm press lens.
Thanks for posting this. Valuable guide for any one who wants to master true photography skills as opposed to people who are after bragging rights for owning the latest and greatest gear bought at ridiculous prices. Are you after great photographs OR owning the most expensive gear without knowing how to use it? Helps people to make up their mind!
Can't THANK you enough.. Wonderful video full of practical info.. With your guidance I am now able to properly use my first manual lens Nikkor 50mm 1.8 Ais pankake.. Subscribed immediately... Thanks again...
Manual focus is actually an advantage in some type of photography. Especially in object documentation such as professional architectural documentation.
I actually found when shooting sports and portraits with my manual lenses that I cannot fully trust the meatball\focus confirmation, it seems it is not that accurate. I have been able to use my eye to see when it is sharp(going to use my glasses now). I use my Nikon 180mm ED 2.8 AIS, Nikon 135 2.8 AIS, Tamron SP 300 2.8 60b etc.
I did everything as you suggested and still the shooting button won’t click. I have a nikon D7200 and Revuenon lens 135mm f/2.8 (just bought them second handed). I’m wondering if it’s something wrong with the lens. Please suggest. I’d appreciate your reply. Thank you!
thank you for this, i recently picked up a pretty sweet 135mm f2.8 and this has helped me set up and have the confidence to use it. also a great video from London Nikon experts Grays of Westminster titled "Is it a pre-AI, an AI or an AIS lens? How to tell." thank you again for this great video.
Very informative and usable, I will get a D610 this week and I have to improve my knowledge about the Nikon lens system. I use a few old lenses on my beloved F3 and will use them on the new one… I also improve my English because you are talking so fast… but I got it without repeating it 😂 So thank on in both ways…👍
Will the live view of the D3 series allow you to take a shot instantly of what you see on screen? I'm thinking you would not want any delay if it was a portrait and you wanted to catch a fleeting expression.
Hi ))) Nice video! Was able to put in three of my non-CPU Nikon lens. But when the lens is on the camera, the shutter does not work except when on the last aperture f/22 . And when I move the aperture ring, it does not change the reading on the camera ? Is there something else that needs to be done? I have a D750 camera. Thank you, Gary
Thank you for the time invested on your video. I have a quick question for you: what is your take on a NIkkor 135 f/2 AIS lens paired with a D800? I have not found any reference to this combination and I do not want just to assume it could be a non-working idea. Thanks again.
I think the 135/2 is the even more fab version of the legendary 135/2.8 which I use as an example in the video. The 135/2 is a prime (no pun!) example of all the dreamy optical qualities of the best Nikon AI-S generation lenses and (since it was designed for use with 35mm film), has far more resolution than your D800 body will ever need. I am 99.9% sure that the D800 body has an AI coupling lever, (although I can’t seem to find my copy to double-check at the moment) in which case they will be an excellent combination. Enjoy! 😊
I have a Rokinon 85mm 1.4 that I'm using on a Nikon D750. Is there a way to use the lens in autofocus? I tried what was suggested in the video and it didn't work. Thanks so much.
Excellent presentation as usual. I've digital fatigue with the modern lenses and mirrorless cameras. I want my photos to look organic and film like. With the Nikkor 50 1.2 AIS lens I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Now I'm looking to purchase the Nikon Df camera to go with my Ais lens. My aim is to to relearn photography with a manual system and gain mastery of the 50mm focal length.
Old video, I know, but can you talk about what specific DSLR bodies have this "Non CPU Lens info" option? I know my D3200 doesn't have it. I've been thinking of picking up another used DLSR body (can't afford new or mirroless) and if I'm going to do that I'd like to use some of my manual focus lens with it. What bodies should I look for?
The D200 & D300 both work (but not the cheaper D80 & D90). The D750 works well. The D3, D4 & D5 also good. The so called ‘entry level’ cameras are not compatible with Ai/Ai-S lenses.
Very informative video. I have just purchased a D850, and have several Ai/AiS lenses to use. They are now assigned under the Set Up menu as non-CPU lenses. However, my D850 menu is different than yours at 7:00. Under Custom Setting Menu>Controls, my "f" options do not include "Assign Fn button" as your screen indicates. As a result I cannot find anyway to assign the Fn button for toggling my non-CPU lenses. Is it possible to do what you did with the D850, and if so, do you have any idea where to do this? Thank you.
There is another RUclips video that shows you how to set up Nikkor AI/AI-S manual focusing lenses with a Nikon D-850 camera: "How to use your manual focus lenses with Nikon DSLR Cameras"
Hey, So I just brought myself a Nikon D3. My current lens is a Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 (With a manual aperture ring). When I put my sigma lens on my D3, it will autofocus fine but doesn't allow me to take a picture. I thought it might be a similar thing to when I put the lens on my D3400 (Just put the camera in manual mode & the lens works fine). Any ideas why my D3 won't take a picture? Or are the two not compatible and I should start saving for a new lens?
I'm not sure off the top of my head. Suggest Trial & Error, i.e. try shortest, middle and longest and see if it makes any noticeable difference to the images/operation... :-)
Lots of great information here. I have a D200 and am hoping it can be used with my Celestron Schmidt Cassegrain telescope (SCT). The SCT are natively f/10 telescopes. There is an off axis guider that is used to attach the camera to the telescope. It has worked very nicely with my F2. I have just started to experiment with the D200 and have taken a few photos... ie - moon and some closer objects and am finding if difficult to get a perfect focus. Should I set this up as you have explained using the menu as a manual lens or am I out of my mind :)
I can make the adjustments for MINIMUM Focal length, then the MAXIMUM aperture in the shooting menu. It would be nice to have it preset as you describe... but this should work.
You never mentioned how you enter manual focus AI/AIS ZOOM lenses in the non CPU data settings? Nikon give you only one focal length entry field? I assume it's because no feedback exists on the position of the glass in a manual lens, so Nikon only give you a single mm option? Unless they employ an algorithm to guess the focal length based on the changes on the sensor as the magnification alters? My guess was to input the long end focal length of the zoom, that way exposure calculation should work out best, when combined with maximum aperture?
I never found a way of telling the camera I was using a zoom. I used to use a 75-150mm E-series on a D200. What I did was to set it up as a 100mm lens, my logic being that a mid-focal length was a better compromise than either extreme. I never had a problem doing that. It’s not a consideration now on my D750 because the only non-CPU lens I use is the 28mm f/2.8 Ai-S.
thank you for the effort and the sharing. i am looking at several ai-s lenses for my d750 and this vid offered some good info. is the focus confirmation dot in the lower left of the viewfinder accurate? thumbs up.
Thanks! I've always found the focus confirmation dot fine for my purposes but zooming in via (tripod) Live View is probably even more accurate than using an AF lens in the ordinary way! :-)
My D850 has the "non-CPU lens data" selection in Menu but my D70s and D5500 don't. I'd like to use my Ai and AiS manual focus lenses on them as well. How do I set the cameras?
Only the higher level Nikon DSLRs are designed to work with Ai/Ai-S lenses. The D70 & D80 didn’t - you needed to buy a D200 instead. I don’t know about the D5500 (my guess is it’s too entry level). As said by others the D600/610 is OK. I use a 28mm f2.8 Ai-S on a D750 with excellent results. D3, D4, D5, D800/810/850 are all higher end and should work just fine.
Still have my Nikon Manual Focus lenses as yes I do check the settings on my camera that I am using manual setting, and manual focus setting, and it is fine when I am using my lenses than spending for new Nikkor lenses as my older line is still good as when I was still shooting film, and still shooting film.... Cute Kitty photo on your logo.
I have a full array of legacy ai an d ai-s lenses from when I shot for newspapers. I still shoot them -- a lot -- my "normals" are probably the 80 to 400mm (most of the time) and sometimes a 70 to 200mm (both auto focus) which I use for fast moving and distant (if I cannot get close or mirror flap becomes a problem) wild life. As I said I still use the legacies, but primarily for land, city, and sea scapes, micro, and portrait. I have even purchased a few additions to the legacy kit. I am glad to see that some agrees with me that legacies still have a place. I actually get more shutter time with the legacies. On thing I wish Nikon with include in the non-cpu set up is an exposure and focus compensation setting for each lens, I think some of them shoot a little over or under exposed or not exactly calibrated for a digital camera. I'm shooting Nikon d810 and d850 cameras; I have no complaints about either they serve me very well. One more thing the legacy ai/ais lenses have a hyperfocal scale built on the focus ring which I use a lot as it offers instant feedback than pulling out a cell phone application. I use live view as a kinda sorta of but not quite like a waist level finder; there is no focus confirmation dot, but there is peaking which works just... OK if the screen is not flooded by sunlight.
You certainly could in the days of Nikon film SLRs and I know that you can with some modern DSLRs but I would double check that it can be done on your particular DSLR body. I have to admit that I've become addicted to LiveView when it comes to focusing manual lenses... :-)
Very informative, could have mentioned Nikon Df as the one and only DSLR body that can mount 'Pre-AI' lenses by raising the meter coupling lever out of the way.
That model was crap, it was the Retro D600 version with NO Video, and SHORT LIVED. then came the fast lenses with hefty price tag from Thailand. I was smart in keeping my Nikkors...
Not true. I owned a D2, D3, and D300 that all allowed the coupling lever to be pivoted out of the way, let you mount Non-AI lenses. The newer cameras no longer do that. A real shame.
I don't know for certain - others may know better... I suspect that the worst case scenario would be that it would work 'stopped down', i.e. you would need to do your (manual) focusing with the lens set to its maximum aperture and then ‘stop down’ to the shooting aperture to let the camera’s TTL meter work out the correct shutter speed and then take the picture. The oldest lenses I’ve used on Nikon DSLR bodies worked in this way. The good news is that with a digital body you can do a spot of ‘trial and error’ to sort everything out, getting feedback from your pics as you do it. In the days of film it would have been a huge amount of guesswork and you would probably have ended up wasting the first roll of film to work things out… 😊
Bro, good explanation on the video and thanks for the content 🙏🏾 but the gum or candy smacking. You ever had a child being a child just chew loudly in your ear 😂 that's how it sounds.
Thank you for this clear and concise checklist as it helped me with an interesting situation with a newly purchased 50mm f/1.2 AIS lens, which behaves more like an AI lens, i.e. the aperture can only be changed manually. It was sold as AI s and the serial number 356889 indicates a manufacturing date of around 2000. I have been using Zeiss lenses for years with no issues. I went through your checklist and have done everything by the book. I wonder if you have ever seen this before? It would be a PITA to have to send it back to Japan.
I've not come across this. Is changing the aperture via the aperture ring a major problem? I'd be tempted to put up with it and request a partial refund!? :-)
@@jklenses8611 Thank you for getting back to me. I was able to narrow the problem down to the aperture ring. It would not come to a stop at 1.2 but continued on for another click beyond 1.2. I could not come to terms with the seller for a partial refund or money to cover repairs, so it is going back for a full refund. Meanwhile you have a new subscriber...
@@nickrandall1169 If you are after anything vintage Nikon like this and want somewhere where you are not likely to have these kinds of issues, I would recommend talking to Grays of Westminster, especially if you are in the UK. If they have one, it will be 100% right or they will sort it without question. (They don't give me any money btw... :-) )
The D90 is a reduced spec D300. The non-CPU lens menu is one of the things that got missed out on the D90. Same was true of the earlier D80. I did my research in 2007 before buying so I bought a D200 as the least expensive Nikon body that would work seamlessly with my collection of Ai-S Nikkors that I used on my FM film camera.
nice video. Too bad Nikon never bothered to add the ‘focus dot’ that appears in the view-through viewfinder to the LCD panel on top of the body, or to the color screen on the back of the camera.
The single digit models (e.g. D4), the 3-digit models D200, D300, D750, D850 etc. But not the 2-digit models such as the D90. My guess (and other comments here bring this out) none of the 4-digit models such as D3200, D5500 models work.
I have two 50mm ai lines (f2 and f1.4) and I've tried them on my D7000. I gone into the camera's menu and added each lens successfully using the Non CPU option. I noticed that the lens does not close down the diaphragm/aperture when I take the picture. This means that I'm only able to shoot at wide open apertures (f2 and f1.4). I do see that camera's on screen aperture correctly corresponds to the aperture on the lens but this is of no use if the lens aperture doesn't close to the chosen aperture. Did I do something wrong in my setup or is this a limitation in using ai lenses on dslrs?
As you’ve entered more than one lens, you are selecting the one you are using I take it? An obvious question, but you are setting the aperture on the lens itself and using either manual or aperture priority?
@@Tom_RUclips_stole_my_handle Yes, I was setting the aperture on the lens. I tried manual and aperture priority. The screen always correctly recognized the aperture on the lens but just wouldn't stop down.
@@3tz71ji I take it then that the camera always correctly displays the aperture as you turn the aperture ring but doesn't physically stop down the lens? If you remove one of the lenses there is a lever on the mount (of the lens) which will close the aperture if you move it. It's possible the aperture blades are gummed up, but odd that two lenses would be affected. My money would be on the lever inside the camera which closes the aperture being very slightly bent. When you mount the lenses do you keep your finger on the lens release button? Some people do that (you shouldn't) and it can lead over-rotation of the lens. Other than those suggestions I'm stumped.
@@Tom_RUclips_stole_my_handle I know exactly what you mean regarding a gummed up lever on the lens. These lenses don't have that problem. I need another Nikon DSLR to compare. As soon as I try that I'll let you know the results. Thanks
You cannot attach any AIS or AI lens to the camera unless the aperture ring is physically set at F5.6>F22 or greater before the lens is mounted. If the aperture is wide open it will not engage the stop down lever and the lens will only function wide open. AF-D lenses use the minimum aperure setting and it has to be locked in place or the camera generates an error in the display and the autofocus will not function.
Before you attach any manual lens to non CPU compatible Nikon DSLR bodies, be sure to add them to the menu provided, as outlined in this Video. But the author should have explained to folks HOW TO CORRECTLY ATTACH pre CPU Nikon Lenses to a Nikon DSLR body. Just in case anybody else noticed it, here is the absolute DO NOT DO! Never ever attach an AI/Ai-s Nikon lens to a Nikon DSLR body while the Autofocus switch, on the lower right hand side front of the Camera body, is set to 'Af' or Auto. Instead flip the lever to 'M' for manual. The opposite applies if you are going the other way. Now before you power on your DSLR set the top function dial to "M' , and when everything has been correctly attached turn on your DSLR. Next using the Fn button select your lens number/specifications. Then rotate the top dial from 'M' to 'A'. Now you can manually adjust DOF ( sharp to blur ) with the Aperture ring on the Lens, the Camera automatically adjusts the shutter, and you are saved a bit of time. OTOH for custom work - eg studio paste up / movie / graphics etc - you can also run in 'M' mode.
I have researched your cautionary comment, but you appear to be mistaken. Maybe the thinking behind it is that the internal Nikon body AF screw-drive motor might try to advance from its normally recessed position and try to spin into the solid backplate of any mounted AI lens (which obviously don't have screw-drive female receptors). But as I understand it the AF screw-drive is only activated when it senses a mounted AF-D lens (via its cpu contacts). BUT, when using AF-D lenses, I realise that it IS important , NOT to set them to Manual while the AF switch on the body is set to AF since one would be forcing the screw-drive to turn while still engaged with the screw-drive prong and motor in the body.
@@AntPDC exactly, those lenses are not built to ensure manual control while AF is still set on. Some AF-D lenses like the 180mm f/2.8D have a AF/MF switch and you need to set to MF on both lens and camera.
Do you mean the newer AF-P version or not? It doesn't make much difference as both will work fine, although the AF-P lens resets focus to infinity at start-up which doesn't happen with the older lens (I believe - others may know more...)
Good one, though I thought my insurance policy disclaimers on the TV ad spots had better speed in spelling out the details. Oh, yeah, great enough if you have a flight to catch.
Nikon publish a list of compatible lenses. What you don’t mention is that some (exotic) lenses have their rear element too close to the film plane (sensor) and cannot be used because the mirror would hit the rear element.
I have a d700 and a 28mm f2.8 Nikkor. I follow your steps on non cpu lens, still can't get the camera exposure right on mode A or manual can't use metering. Have to guess the metering. When I dial apeture ring on the lens, the camera doesn't tell which apeture it is. What did I do wrong? Can anyone pls help?
Not sure I’ve got any helpful suggestions as I’ve not had that kind of problem before. I have noticed that there seems to be more tolerance in the bayonet mount etc with older manual lenses, meaning that it may not be engaging very well with your D700. My 400/3.5 AI-S is a very snug fit on my D3s and the camera only reads apertures when they are getting wider. To set a smaller aperture you have to take the lens off, reset to f22 and then remount and dial up from there. The same lens on my D7000 works perfectly in both directions and other manual lenses work fine on my D3s. (I did speak to Nikon about this and they (helpfully!) pointed out that it seemed to be a specific compatibility issue between my D3 and this particular lens!) My two questions would be: 1) Do you have the same problem with other manual lenses on your D700 and/or if you use that lens on another body? 2) Are the AI coupling lever on the body and the notch in the back of the lens’ aperture ring engaging properly? Hope this moves you forward - others may know more… 😊
@@jklenses8611 thank you so much for your reply. I don't have other Ai lenses but I put the 28mm f2.8 ai on a d610 and still can't meter. Maybe it's the lens. You're post is so great for others whos lenses can work with metering. Keep on the good job.
You mention a 28mm f2.8 Ai-S … FYI mine works fine on both a D200 and a D750 body. I mostly use aperture priority metering. Obviously neither shutter priority or P-mode work.
@@nicolasrivoire3936 Just fyi - most had some very minor dust specs inside. This is normal and has absolutely NO EFFECT on the photographic quality. If there was any mention of fungus I did not buy as fungus will spread.
so i bought a 20mm f4 non-AI .. and i wanna use it with my nikon d800, should i send it to nikon for them to convert it to AI-s or is there an adapter ring or something like that to not fucked up my camera and use this non ai-s lens?
Probably not a good idea to try to attach it to a D800 as you could damage the camera's AI coupling lever. Your local Nikon dealer should be able to organise conversion to AI but I wonder how much a second-hand AI version of this lens would cost these days? Might be the cheaper route forward - worth checking out anyhow...
Both the D200 and the D750 have a focus confirmation circle (but no arrows either side of it), The circle moves to left or right - part circle is out of focus, full circle is in focus.
Honestly don't know why I watched this. Been using vintage lenses for years now. I rock a Nikkor 50mm 1.8 e series lens and Nikkor 135mm 2.8 on my Nikon D7500. Never had issues with it. Nikon D7500 removed the cpu function but honestly I don't need it as I know my lenses like back of my hand. I feel vintage lens with little practice don't need all the features. Just shoot manual. Been doing it for 7 years now as a hobby. I started photography as a middle schooler. I do it semi professionally at highschool where I get paid here and there. Figure good for portfolio.
Yep! They generally give as good/better optical quality than the latest AF lenses at a fraction of the price... :-) Don't buy any lens which isn't definitely AI or AI-S.
This video appeared in my reccomended recently. I've been using manual lenses for ages and ages on my Nikon D5300. I wish I had a bit more spare cash so I could pick up a DSLR body which can fully utilise vintage lenses My current DSLR has no non-cpu lens data options and is a crop sensor. To anyone reading this comment with a bit of an older, or "cheaper" or "entry level" Nikon DSLR, you should 100% pick up non-cpu lenses, even without the options listed in point 3 of this video, they are by far the best lenses I've ever bought
Your video is very interesting and extremely helpful. I have a nikon D300 and 50mm f/1.8D , along with a 80 to 400 f/ 4.5 to 5.6D . To set up in camera for non cpu I assuming one types in 4.5 and 80 but what about the 5.6/ 400mm, please. Interestingly I was told to fit either lens ,leaving the F stop lock on lens which facilitates changing mode ie ap/shutter or manual and then adjust settings as required. Is this right or not [ as directed by a Nikon member of staff]. Hope the later comments are not to confused. Help in this regard would be appreciated
Hi - I’m not sure that I’ve understood your query completely, so apologies if this is wrong… If your two lenses have a D on them then they are autofocus AF-D lenses with a CPU inside which tells the camera body the aperture information electronically. You don’t need to enter anything via the Non-CPU Lens Data section. All you need to do is set the lens to its smallest aperture (f16, f22 etc) and then alter the aperture electronically via the camera body. If I’ve got this wrong and they are manual focus lenses then they won’t have a CPU to tell the camera body aperture information and you will need to enter this information as explained in this video. In the case of the zoom lens the bad news is that the only way the system can cope with this lens is if you enter two settings, one as an 80mm f4 and another as a 400mm f5.6. If you want to shoot at focal lengths in between then you will need to add that focal length as though it was yet another lens, eg 135mm f4.5 or whatever. Hope this helps… 😊
Simple and to the point instructions, thankyou. I have only just started using a Nikon D700 in 2023 and only have AI/AIS lenses so far. The Fn + Command dial setting is a big plus for me and immediately set that up while watching. Good work !
That was such a helpful video. I've just bought a D600; my first Nikon. Thank you for the clear and unfussy delivery. So refreshing
Excellent. I've been using my vintage Nikon glass on modern bodies for years and never knew about the function button option. For a person who's never been taken through how this works, this is everything you need to know. And you can assemble a huge array of lenses for every need at a fraction of what you'd pay for modern ones and not sacrifice a bit of image quality.
Excellent video. My father used to be a professional photographer and was always going on about the importance of lens quality
I regularly use manual focus lenses on my Nikon D90 and that includes vintage preset lenses, t-mount and interchangeable mount lenses. Good video!
Great to see someone encouraging the use of those wonderful old lenses.
The "rabbit ears" shown were from a Ai/Ais lens - the pre ai lenses had solid rabbit ears.
Good spot! Thanks for that - I'm not a manual lens expert by any means but it's clear that Nikon totally nailed optical quality across the 35mm/FX format around the era of AI-S. Although AF, AF-S and VR are great fun and indispensable in some situations, there's no doubt where the best optical quality per pound/euro/dollar lies, especially considering the almost giveaway prices of some manual lenses.
The holes in the “rabbit ears” were an evolution from the earlier solid prongs. The reason for the holes is to let more light onto the aperture scale on the lens throat nearest the amount. Cameras such as the FM and its successors have a small window at the bottom of the pentaprism through which these aperture values are read and displayed in the viewfinder. A simple optical solution to providing viewfinder information.
A lot of people are complaining about how fast you were talking. I thought you were quick and informative, keeping the video under 10 minutes. Folks don't realize, but they could always slow down the video if they need to. Often times, I need to speed up videos because folks are talking too slow!
:-)
Oh man this was so helpful. Thanks so much. Bought a used D610 some months back and I love it. Just bought my first two Ai lenses. A 16mm f3.5 and and a 500mm f8 Reflex. I know from one extreme to another ha ha. Been using pentax manual lenses on my pentax dslr's for years but this is my first foray with Nikon. Thanks again.
The function button tip is a lifesaver. Thanks!
Excellent video! Very informative, clearly structured, no BS, great! Thanks for sharing :)
I didn't know there was a way to manually focus through the viewfinder. I have been Eyeballing this ais lens on my d40 and struggling to get the focus. HOLY SMOKES thank you so much!
Glad I found you! Just got a used Nikkor 55mm 2.8 macro lens for my Nikon D750 and getting used to manual focusing...THANKS for this!
:-)
This video has everything I was looking for on the subject. Well done! I have a 35mm f/1.4 and a 55mm f/1.2, both pre-AI, that I have enjoyed on film bodies. I am now looking to acquire a used full frame body to make use of these lenses. In a few minutes this video answered all of my questions.
:-)
Thank you. COVID 19 has me more or less housebound, like everyone else, and I decided to do some experimenting with my D750. I started playing with the old FE lenses. Then I ordered and received a factory Ai converted 105mm f2.5 (sonnar) and a factory Ai converted 135mm f 3.5 (sonnar). All 5 are entered as non-cpu lenses now, and I have reset my Fn button as you described. Very handy. Tomorrow, weather permitting, I’m going to go outside and take some photos with the new lenses.
Excellent - Enjoy!! :-)
Thank you for this video, I learned a lot about using older glass from your video. Things I did not know which made using them easier.
Lenses that have stayed in the collection and every Nikon fanatic should own:
-20mm f4 (an image so distortion free, you'll delete photoshop)
-28mm f2.8 Ai-s (distortion free, wide angle macro that always delivers an amazing background)
-50mm f1.8 Ai pancake
-105mm f1.8 Ai-s, more compression over the 85mm iterations, better bokeh
-135mm f2 Ai-s, just because.
Honourable mentions:
-105mm f2.8 Ai-s macro. Damn good.
-180mm f2.8 ED AI-s. Ditto.
Hee hee - 'you'll delete photoshop...' he-hee...
@Peter C I had actually the AF screw version, that went 1:1. It's f stop gets pretty small at 1:1. I also had the 105 and 180. Darn good lenses on full frame. I regret selling my user 180mm press lens.
Thanks for posting this. Valuable guide for any one who wants to master true photography skills as opposed to people who are after bragging rights for owning the latest and greatest gear bought at ridiculous prices. Are you after great photographs OR owning the most expensive gear without knowing how to use it? Helps people to make up their mind!
Can't THANK you enough.. Wonderful video full of practical info.. With your guidance I am now able to properly use my first manual lens Nikkor 50mm 1.8 Ais pankake.. Subscribed immediately... Thanks again...
Manual focus is actually an advantage in some type of photography. Especially in object documentation such as professional architectural documentation.
Thankyou very much for your time, i am loving the older Lens - especially the cost 😁
Of all the manual focus Nikkor lenses I bought on eBay, the one I use the most is the 50mm f1.2 AIS. It takes incredible pictures.
I've got the Pentax SMC-A 50mm F/1.2 and love the way it performs
Extremely useful information. Thanks very much!
I just got a pristine 200mm f4 micro MF lens. It looks like it has never been out of its box! Optically it’s excellent.
Jan M: I have the same one which I use with my D500 body.....its an excellent light-weight and very sharp lens 😃
I actually found when shooting sports and portraits with my manual lenses that I cannot fully trust the meatball\focus confirmation, it seems it is not that accurate. I have been able to use my eye to see when it is sharp(going to use my glasses now). I use my Nikon 180mm ED 2.8 AIS, Nikon 135 2.8 AIS, Tamron SP 300 2.8 60b etc.
As always, excellent analysis and helpful information.
I did everything as you suggested and still the shooting button won’t click. I have a nikon D7200 and Revuenon lens 135mm f/2.8 (just bought them second handed). I’m wondering if it’s something wrong with the lens. Please suggest. I’d appreciate your reply. Thank you!
thank you for this, i recently picked up a pretty sweet 135mm f2.8 and this has helped me set up and have the confidence to use it. also a great video from London Nikon experts Grays of Westminster titled "Is it a pre-AI, an AI or an AIS lens? How to tell." thank you again for this great video.
:-) 135/2.8 is one of my favourite manual lenses. Also, what Grays of Westminster don't know about Nikon isn't worth knowing!
Thank you so much for posting this, it has helped me realise something I didn’t know with the 105mm manual Nikon lens
Very informative and usable, I will get a D610 this week and I have to improve my knowledge about the Nikon lens system. I use a few old lenses on my beloved F3 and will use them on the new one…
I also improve my English because you are talking so fast… but I got it without repeating it 😂 So thank on in both ways…👍
Will the live view of the D3 series allow you to take a shot instantly of what you see on screen? I'm thinking you would not want any delay if it was a portrait and you wanted to catch a fleeting expression.
Hi ))) Nice video! Was able to put in three of my non-CPU Nikon lens. But when the lens is on the camera, the shutter does not work except when on the last aperture f/22 . And when I move the aperture ring, it does not change the reading on the camera ? Is there something else that needs to be done? I have a D750 camera. Thank you, Gary
Thank you for the time invested on your video. I have a quick question for you: what is your take on a NIkkor 135 f/2 AIS lens paired with a D800? I have not found any reference to this combination and I do not want just to assume it could be a non-working idea. Thanks again.
I think the 135/2 is the even more fab version of the legendary 135/2.8 which I use as an example in the video. The 135/2 is a prime (no pun!) example of all the dreamy optical qualities of the best Nikon AI-S generation lenses and (since it was designed for use with 35mm film), has far more resolution than your D800 body will ever need.
I am 99.9% sure that the D800 body has an AI coupling lever, (although I can’t seem to find my copy to double-check at the moment) in which case they will be an excellent combination. Enjoy! 😊
@@jklenses8611 thanks a lot!
I have a Rokinon 85mm 1.4 that I'm using on a Nikon D750. Is there a way to use the lens in autofocus? I tried what was suggested in the video and it didn't work. Thanks so much.
Excellent presentation as usual. I've digital fatigue with the modern lenses and mirrorless cameras. I want my photos to look organic and film like. With the Nikkor 50 1.2 AIS lens I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Now I'm looking to purchase the Nikon Df camera to go with my Ais lens. My aim is to to relearn photography with a manual system and gain mastery of the 50mm focal length.
Brilliant video. Thanks for sharing the info.
Thank you so much, why I didn't watch it 3 years ago when I got this lens
Old video, I know, but can you talk about what specific DSLR bodies have this "Non CPU Lens info" option?
I know my D3200 doesn't have it. I've been thinking of picking up another used DLSR body (can't afford new or mirroless) and if I'm going to do that I'd like to use some of my manual focus lens with it. What bodies should I look for?
The D200 & D300 both work (but not the cheaper D80 & D90). The D750 works well. The D3, D4 & D5 also good. The so called ‘entry level’ cameras are not compatible with Ai/Ai-S lenses.
Wow, what a game changer this video was for me. Thank you!
Thanks for presenting that very valuable info! It is appreciated.
Invaluable information....as ever!. Thank-you for sharing.
Very informative video. I have just purchased a D850, and have several Ai/AiS lenses to use. They are now assigned under the Set Up menu as non-CPU lenses. However, my D850 menu is different than yours at 7:00. Under Custom Setting Menu>Controls, my "f" options do not include "Assign Fn button" as your screen indicates. As a result I cannot find anyway to assign the Fn button for toggling my non-CPU lenses.
Is it possible to do what you did with the D850, and if so, do you have any idea where to do this?
Thank you.
There is another RUclips video that shows you how to set up Nikkor AI/AI-S manual focusing lenses with a Nikon D-850 camera:
"How to use your manual focus lenses with Nikon DSLR Cameras"
Hey, So I just brought myself a Nikon D3. My current lens is a Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 (With a manual aperture ring). When I put my sigma lens on my D3, it will autofocus fine but doesn't allow me to take a picture. I thought it might be a similar thing to when I put the lens on my D3400 (Just put the camera in manual mode & the lens works fine). Any ideas why my D3 won't take a picture? Or are the two not compatible and I should start saving for a new lens?
Thank you thank you thank you. Just found my old AI 50mm 1.4 lens which I can now use on my new D750!!!!
Very imformative and helpful, thank you
Great tutorial- thank you. If using an AI-S zoom lens what focal length should be given to register as a non-CPU lens?
I'm not sure off the top of my head. Suggest Trial & Error, i.e. try shortest, middle and longest and see if it makes any noticeable difference to the images/operation... :-)
Bill Mumford: I think you will need to register the Maximum zoom.
Lots of great information here. I have a D200 and am hoping it can be used with my Celestron Schmidt Cassegrain telescope (SCT). The SCT are natively f/10 telescopes. There is an off axis guider that is used to attach the camera to the telescope. It has worked very nicely with my F2. I have just started to experiment with the D200 and have taken a few photos... ie - moon and some closer objects and am finding if difficult to get a perfect focus.
Should I set this up as you have explained using the menu as a manual lens or am I out of my mind :)
After checking out my setup menu for the D200 - it appears there is no Non-CPU Lens Data an an option. Am I missing something?
I can make the adjustments for MINIMUM Focal length, then the MAXIMUM aperture in the shooting menu. It would be nice to have it preset as you describe... but this should work.
That was immensely helpful. Thanks!
Thanks for all the great info.
May I ask you if there is any source where we can check which cameras have the manual focus triangles that guides you to get the thing in focus?
What a brilliant video, now I"m going to buy my 24mm AIS lens.
Insane VfM! :-)
You never mentioned how you enter manual focus AI/AIS ZOOM lenses in the non CPU data settings? Nikon give you only one focal length entry field? I assume it's because no feedback exists on the position of the glass in a manual lens, so Nikon only give you a single mm option? Unless they employ an algorithm to guess the focal length based on the changes on the sensor as the magnification alters? My guess was to input the long end focal length of the zoom, that way exposure calculation should work out best, when combined with maximum aperture?
I never found a way of telling the camera I was using a zoom. I used to use a 75-150mm E-series on a D200. What I did was to set it up as a 100mm lens, my logic being that a mid-focal length was a better compromise than either extreme. I never had a problem doing that. It’s not a consideration now on my D750 because the only non-CPU lens I use is the 28mm f/2.8 Ai-S.
thank you for the effort and the sharing. i am looking at several ai-s lenses for my d750 and this vid offered some good info. is the focus confirmation dot in the lower left of the viewfinder accurate? thumbs up.
Thanks! I've always found the focus confirmation dot fine for my purposes but zooming in via (tripod) Live View is probably even more accurate than using an AF lens in the ordinary way! :-)
Excellent video. Ever tried a split prism focusing screen? I find using the dot in the bottom left of the viewfinder very tricky.
My D850 has the "non-CPU lens data" selection in Menu but my D70s and D5500 don't. I'd like to use my Ai and AiS manual focus lenses on them as well. How do I set the cameras?
Only the higher level Nikon DSLRs are designed to work with Ai/Ai-S lenses. The D70 & D80 didn’t - you needed to buy a D200 instead. I don’t know about the D5500 (my guess is it’s too entry level). As said by others the D600/610 is OK. I use a 28mm f2.8 Ai-S on a D750 with excellent results. D3, D4, D5, D800/810/850 are all higher end and should work just fine.
Still have my Nikon Manual Focus lenses as yes I do check the settings on my camera that I am using manual setting, and manual focus setting, and it is fine when I am using my lenses than spending for new Nikkor lenses as my older line is still good as when I was still shooting film, and still shooting film.... Cute Kitty photo on your logo.
Brilliant and informative.....many thanks.
I have a full array of legacy ai an d ai-s lenses from when I shot for newspapers. I still shoot them -- a lot -- my "normals" are probably the 80 to 400mm (most of the time) and sometimes a 70 to 200mm (both auto focus) which I use for fast moving and distant (if I cannot get close or mirror flap becomes a problem) wild life. As I said I still use the legacies, but primarily for land, city, and sea scapes, micro, and portrait. I have even purchased a few additions to the legacy kit. I am glad to see that some agrees with me that legacies still have a place. I actually get more shutter time with the legacies. On thing I wish Nikon with include in the non-cpu set up is an exposure and focus compensation setting for each lens, I think some of them shoot a little over or under exposed or not exactly calibrated for a digital camera. I'm shooting Nikon d810 and d850 cameras; I have no complaints about either they serve me very well. One more thing the legacy ai/ais lenses have a hyperfocal scale built on the focus ring which I use a lot as it offers instant feedback than pulling out a cell phone application. I use live view as a kinda sorta of but not quite like a waist level finder; there is no focus confirmation dot, but there is peaking which works just... OK if the screen is not flooded by sunlight.
Didn’t notice it on my first listen, but your voice and cadence reminds me of RUclipsr David Thorpe (may he Rest In Peace)
for focusing, can you simply add a split prism focus screen?
You certainly could in the days of Nikon film SLRs and I know that you can with some modern DSLRs but I would double check that it can be done on your particular DSLR body. I have to admit that I've become addicted to LiveView when it comes to focusing manual lenses... :-)
Very informative, could have mentioned Nikon Df as the one and only DSLR body that can mount 'Pre-AI' lenses by raising the meter coupling lever out of the way.
That model was crap, it was the Retro D600 version with NO Video, and SHORT LIVED. then came the fast lenses with hefty price tag from Thailand. I was smart in keeping my Nikkors...
Not true. I owned a D2, D3, and D300 that all allowed the coupling lever to be pivoted out of the way, let you mount Non-AI lenses. The newer cameras no longer do that. A real shame.
The D200 also has a coupling lever that can be flipped out of the way. So pre-AI lenses can be used.
Nice hack for using the Fn/F1 button!😀
Awesome... detailed... succinct...
Appreciate the video buddy.
Is there a way to zoom in and lock it so that we don't have to zoom in again for every shot in Live View?
Is the Nikon D5100 compatible with a soligor 90 - 230mm and vivitar 28-200mm f/3.5-5.3 macro lens with some sort of adapter?
I have no clue...sorry! :-(
You're vid helped a lot, THANK YOU
If I put a screw mount adapter on a d750 and mount an m42 lens, will the camera meter through the lens properly?
I don't know for certain - others may know better...
I suspect that the worst case scenario would be that it would work 'stopped down', i.e. you would need to do your (manual) focusing with the lens set to its maximum aperture and then ‘stop down’ to the shooting aperture to let the camera’s TTL meter work out the correct shutter speed and then take the picture. The oldest lenses I’ve used on Nikon DSLR bodies worked in this way.
The good news is that with a digital body you can do a spot of ‘trial and error’ to sort everything out, getting feedback from your pics as you do it. In the days of film it would have been a huge amount of guesswork and you would probably have ended up wasting the first roll of film to work things out… 😊
Bro, good explanation on the video and thanks for the content 🙏🏾 but the gum or candy smacking. You ever had a child being a child just chew loudly in your ear 😂 that's how it sounds.
Thank you for this clear and concise checklist as it helped me with an interesting situation with a newly purchased 50mm f/1.2 AIS lens, which behaves more like an AI lens, i.e. the aperture can only be changed manually. It was sold as AI s and the serial number 356889 indicates a manufacturing date of around 2000. I have been using Zeiss lenses for years with no issues. I went through your checklist and have done everything by the book. I wonder if you have ever seen this before? It would be a PITA to have to send it back to Japan.
I've not come across this. Is changing the aperture via the aperture ring a major problem? I'd be tempted to put up with it and request a partial refund!? :-)
@@jklenses8611 Thank you for getting back to me. I was able to narrow the problem down to the aperture ring. It would not come to a stop at 1.2 but continued on for another click beyond 1.2. I could not come to terms with the seller for a partial refund or money to cover repairs, so it is going back for a full refund. Meanwhile you have a new subscriber...
@@nickrandall1169 If you are after anything vintage Nikon like this and want somewhere where you are not likely to have these kinds of issues, I would recommend talking to Grays of Westminster, especially if you are in the UK. If they have one, it will be 100% right or they will sort it without question. (They don't give me any money btw... :-) )
I didnt find this non-CPU option in my D90 camera, is this mean I cannot use manual lens?
The D90 is a reduced spec D300. The non-CPU lens menu is one of the things that got missed out on the D90. Same was true of the earlier D80. I did my research in 2007 before buying so I bought a D200 as the least expensive Nikon body that would work seamlessly with my collection of Ai-S Nikkors that I used on my FM film camera.
Very helpful. Thank You.
Great video thanks
nice video. Too bad Nikon never bothered to add the ‘focus dot’ that appears in the view-through viewfinder to the LCD panel on top of the body, or to the color screen on the back of the camera.
thank you!! do you know what is the cheaper camera to do this?
The single digit models (e.g. D4), the 3-digit models D200, D300, D750, D850 etc. But not the 2-digit models such as the D90. My guess (and other comments here bring this out) none of the 4-digit models such as D3200, D5500 models work.
great information ,thank you
I have two 50mm ai lines (f2 and f1.4) and I've tried them on my D7000. I gone into the camera's menu and added each lens successfully using the Non CPU option. I noticed that the lens does not close down the diaphragm/aperture when I take the picture. This means that I'm only able to shoot at wide open apertures (f2 and f1.4). I do see that camera's on screen aperture correctly corresponds to the aperture on the lens but this is of no use if the lens aperture doesn't close to the chosen aperture. Did I do something wrong in my setup or is this a limitation in using ai lenses on dslrs?
As you’ve entered more than one lens, you are selecting the one you are using I take it? An obvious question, but you are setting the aperture on the lens itself and using either manual or aperture priority?
@@Tom_RUclips_stole_my_handle Yes, I was setting the aperture on the lens. I tried manual and aperture priority. The screen always correctly recognized the aperture on the lens but just wouldn't stop down.
@@3tz71ji I take it then that the camera always correctly displays the aperture as you turn the aperture ring but doesn't physically stop down the lens? If you remove one of the lenses there is a lever on the mount (of the lens) which will close the aperture if you move it. It's possible the aperture blades are gummed up, but odd that two lenses would be affected. My money would be on the lever inside the camera which closes the aperture being very slightly bent. When you mount the lenses do you keep your finger on the lens release button? Some people do that (you shouldn't) and it can lead over-rotation of the lens. Other than those suggestions I'm stumped.
@@Tom_RUclips_stole_my_handle I know exactly what you mean regarding a gummed up lever on the lens. These lenses don't have that problem. I need another Nikon DSLR to compare. As soon as I try that I'll let you know the results. Thanks
You cannot attach any AIS or AI lens to the camera unless the aperture ring is physically set at F5.6>F22 or greater before the lens is mounted. If the aperture is wide open it will not engage the stop down lever and the lens will only function wide open. AF-D lenses use the minimum aperure setting and it has to be locked in place or the camera generates an error in the display and the autofocus will not function.
Before you attach any manual lens to non CPU compatible Nikon DSLR bodies, be sure to add them to the menu provided, as outlined in this Video.
But the author should have explained to folks HOW TO CORRECTLY ATTACH pre CPU Nikon Lenses to a Nikon DSLR body.
Just in case anybody else noticed it, here is the absolute
DO NOT DO!
Never ever attach an AI/Ai-s Nikon lens to a Nikon DSLR body while the Autofocus switch, on the lower right hand side front of the Camera body, is set to 'Af' or Auto. Instead flip the lever to 'M' for manual. The opposite applies if you are going the other way.
Now before you power on your DSLR set the top function dial to "M' , and when everything has been correctly attached turn on your DSLR. Next using the Fn button select your lens number/specifications.
Then rotate the top dial from 'M' to 'A'. Now you can manually adjust DOF ( sharp to blur ) with the Aperture ring on the Lens, the Camera automatically adjusts the shutter, and you are saved a bit of time. OTOH for custom work - eg studio paste up / movie / graphics etc - you can also run in 'M' mode.
Great comment, thank you. What would happen if one were to forget to flip the camera body from AF to M?
I have researched your cautionary comment, but you appear to be mistaken. Maybe the thinking behind it is that the internal Nikon body AF screw-drive motor might try to advance from its normally recessed position and try to spin into the solid backplate of any mounted AI lens (which obviously don't have screw-drive female receptors). But as I understand it the AF screw-drive is only activated when it senses a mounted AF-D lens (via its cpu contacts).
BUT, when using AF-D lenses, I realise that it IS important , NOT to set them to Manual while the AF switch on the body is set to AF since one would be forcing the screw-drive to turn while still engaged with the screw-drive prong and motor in the body.
@@AntPDC exactly, those lenses are not built to ensure manual control while AF is still set on. Some AF-D lenses like the 180mm f/2.8D have a AF/MF switch and you need to set to MF on both lens and camera.
3 words describe this video fab u lous!
:-)
Excellent information, very helpful (but why the great hurry?).
Thanks - not sure, obviously had something else important to do that day..! :_)
Will the Nikon AF 70-300mm lens work on a D800 camera?
Do you mean the newer AF-P version or not? It doesn't make much difference as both will work fine, although the AF-P lens resets focus to infinity at start-up which doesn't happen with the older lens (I believe - others may know more...)
THANKS! Very detailed and I appreciate it!
Hello, i tried this technique with my D3s with voigtlander 58 1.4 slii. Unfortunately, it still does not meter.
And the liveview is disabled when i put this lens on. Is there a way I could make this work? Thanks
Good one, though I thought my insurance policy disclaimers on the TV ad spots had better speed in spelling out the details. Oh, yeah, great enough if you have a flight to catch.
:-)
I owned & used yourAI-S 135mm f2.8 on modern DSLR.
Nikkor ais rules! I got mine on Ebay.
Nikon publish a list of compatible lenses. What you don’t mention is that some (exotic) lenses have their rear element too close to the film plane (sensor) and cannot be used because the mirror would hit the rear element.
This is a seriously good, informative video, thank you :)
I have a d700 and a 28mm f2.8 Nikkor. I follow your steps on non cpu lens, still can't get the camera exposure right on mode A or manual can't use metering. Have to guess the metering. When I dial apeture ring on the lens, the camera doesn't tell which apeture it is. What did I do wrong? Can anyone pls help?
Not sure I’ve got any helpful suggestions as I’ve not had that kind of problem before. I have noticed that there seems to be more tolerance in the bayonet mount etc with older manual lenses, meaning that it may not be engaging very well with your D700. My 400/3.5 AI-S is a very snug fit on my D3s and the camera only reads apertures when they are getting wider. To set a smaller aperture you have to take the lens off, reset to f22 and then remount and dial up from there. The same lens on my D7000 works perfectly in both directions and other manual lenses work fine on my D3s. (I did speak to Nikon about this and they (helpfully!) pointed out that it seemed to be a specific compatibility issue between my D3 and this particular lens!)
My two questions would be:
1) Do you have the same problem with other manual lenses on your D700 and/or if you use that lens on another body?
2) Are the AI coupling lever on the body and the notch in the back of the lens’ aperture ring engaging properly?
Hope this moves you forward - others may know more… 😊
@@jklenses8611 thank you so much for your reply. I don't have other Ai lenses but I put the 28mm f2.8 ai on a d610 and still can't meter. Maybe it's the lens. You're post is so great for others whos lenses can work with metering. Keep on the good job.
@@m5481 It does sound like something wrong with the lens...
@@jklenses8611 think so too Thnx for your reply
You mention a 28mm f2.8 Ai-S … FYI mine works fine on both a D200 and a D750 body. I mostly use aperture priority metering. Obviously neither shutter priority or P-mode work.
I've ordered 9 AI-s lenses from eBay in mint condition, all from Japanese sellers.
hi, and they were mint?
@@nicolasrivoire3936 Yes - all mint.
@@masterstacker2833 thx 😉
@@nicolasrivoire3936 Just fyi - most had some very minor dust specs inside. This is normal and has absolutely NO EFFECT on the photographic quality. If there was any mention of fungus I did not buy as fungus will spread.
@Master Stacker How did you handle any import taxes or fees?
Great info, thank you!
Excellent video! thanks!
so i bought a 20mm f4 non-AI .. and i wanna use it with my nikon d800, should i send it to nikon for them to convert it to AI-s or is there an adapter ring or something like that to not fucked up my camera and use this non ai-s lens?
Probably not a good idea to try to attach it to a D800 as you could damage the camera's AI coupling lever. Your local Nikon dealer should be able to organise conversion to AI but I wonder how much a second-hand AI version of this lens would cost these days? Might be the cheaper route forward - worth checking out anyhow...
Hi I have a zoom lens how would I enter that for the camera. Or I have to put each individual mm. The max f is 3.5
Put as many as you can, usually i enter the lowest, the middle and longest focal length
It's an extremely tiresome exercise indeed! I'd not bother with manual-only zooms myself!
What Nikon bodies have focus assist? Besides D3s!
André Lousada, Conductor: The D500 has a "focus confirmation" display.
Both the D200 and the D750 have a focus confirmation circle (but no arrows either side of it), The circle moves to left or right - part circle is out of focus, full circle is in focus.
Honestly don't know why I watched this. Been using vintage lenses for years now. I rock a Nikkor 50mm 1.8 e series lens and Nikkor 135mm 2.8 on my Nikon D7500. Never had issues with it. Nikon D7500 removed the cpu function but honestly I don't need it as I know my lenses like back of my hand. I feel vintage lens with little practice don't need all the features. Just shoot manual. Been doing it for 7 years now as a hobby. I started photography as a middle schooler. I do it semi professionally at highschool where I get paid here and there. Figure good for portfolio.
So basically I Need Ai or AiS manual lens for my D610?
Yep! They generally give as good/better optical quality than the latest AF lenses at a fraction of the price... :-) Don't buy any lens which isn't definitely AI or AI-S.
JKLenses great video , I’ve liked and subscribed to your channel. So I’m safe with any Nikon Ai/AIS lens ? With D610 and D700. 🙂
@@davidcollins4227 : Any AI or AIS lens should work with any modern Nikon DSLR (including pre-AI lenses which have been "adapted" to AI or AIS).
Don’t all f mount lenses fit a d850 ?
AI and AI-S lenses certainly do! :-)
This video appeared in my reccomended recently. I've been using manual lenses for ages and ages on my Nikon D5300. I wish I had a bit more spare cash so I could pick up a DSLR body which can fully utilise vintage lenses
My current DSLR has no non-cpu lens data options and is a crop sensor.
To anyone reading this comment with a bit of an older, or "cheaper" or "entry level" Nikon DSLR, you should 100% pick up non-cpu lenses, even without the options listed in point 3 of this video, they are by far the best lenses I've ever bought
Your video is very interesting and extremely helpful.
I have a nikon D300 and 50mm f/1.8D , along with a 80 to 400 f/ 4.5 to 5.6D . To set up in camera for non cpu I assuming one types in 4.5 and 80 but what about the 5.6/ 400mm, please.
Interestingly I was told to fit either lens ,leaving the F stop lock on lens which facilitates changing mode ie ap/shutter or manual and then adjust settings as required. Is this right or not [ as directed by a Nikon member of staff]. Hope the later comments are not to confused. Help in this regard would be appreciated
Hi - I’m not sure that I’ve understood your query completely, so apologies if this is wrong… If your two lenses have a D on them then they are autofocus AF-D lenses with a CPU inside which tells the camera body the aperture information electronically. You don’t need to enter anything via the Non-CPU Lens Data section. All you need to do is set the lens to its smallest aperture (f16, f22 etc) and then alter the aperture electronically via the camera body.
If I’ve got this wrong and they are manual focus lenses then they won’t have a CPU to tell the camera body aperture information and you will need to enter this information as explained in this video. In the case of the zoom lens the bad news is that the only way the system can cope with this lens is if you enter two settings, one as an 80mm f4 and another as a 400mm f5.6. If you want to shoot at focal lengths in between then you will need to add that focal length as though it was yet another lens, eg 135mm f4.5 or whatever.
Hope this helps… 😊
Thank you very much.