Thanks for the video. I also have a CR5 Pro and think about converting it to direct extruder since the first week I have it. Until now I always thought its not feasible mounting an extruder ontop the carriage due to the limited height, but you showed a quite elegant solution! I will try that to get a better print quality out of that huge box. Great Job!
I completely agree with the design flaws. I've been mocking up a direct drive as well for the past couple weeks. Interested to see the results you yield from the swap. I've also though about adding front linear rails and making a new bed mount.
I've gone through about 50kg of filament since this upgrade and I couldn't be happier! It works so much better now and I haven't had a single clog since. I think using new rails and a better bed mount would be a great idea. The most I'm able to get out of this printer is about 250mm/s at 5000mm/s^2 acceleration for PLA before the physical limitations of this Cartesian style kick in. If you convert it to corexy, or use linear rails, it should be able to push some significantly better speed.
I have this printer and need to replace my hot end. I cannot find that hotend anywhere. Creality does not offer it. Thanks for the video. I am planning on doing this upgrade as well because the current extruder is just not doing the job anymore.
The only place you can get the hot end from is AliExpress unfortunately. I had a Creality Spider V4 hotend on the printer for a few days, which requires a custom bracket, but the thermistor on that hotend died quickly. Other people have swapped over a Bambu Lab X1C hotend over on it, which seems to work really well. I rarely use this printer any more, but I'll probably swap over an X1C hotend as well since they are super cheap and work very well. Here's the AliExpress OEM hotend if you decide to go that route: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802954375999.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=19158444193&albag=&trgt=&crea=en3256802954375999&netw=x&device=c&albpg=&albpd=en3256802954375999&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqsitBhDlARIsAGMR1RiQ8PMWXgzyo4B-My_EZnK8q_rJTqtmmgz8O6WnugAMiB_qzsc-cBYaAmiNEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=2183fbc74a924df6b31a885357ea3c17-1706191953223-07441-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=2183fbc74a924df6b31a885357ea3c17-1706191953223-07441-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=1dbcc99fe69346a1b04b8a30d1faec1c&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
I wish I could see some step by step tutorials for CR-5 pro h Klipper installation. There's so much going on with it and it's different than Ender. I would like to use stock screen with it if possible.
This is used with Klipper since it's much easier to make changes to than Marlin. Marlin for SKR mini E3's can be found here: github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V3.0/Marlin You'll need to modify it then compile it for your printer accordingly though.
Hi! Just recieved CR-5 PRO H and i have a question. It uses bl-touch for zeroing z axe and it behave strange for me. It makes 2 times probes with bl-touch and third time platform moves up until it stops at z-limit switch bracket wich is not actin on cr-5 pro h. So the z-motor continue to work untill it stops at overload like it crashes to obstruction. Is it the same for all cr-5 pro h? I tried all 3 versions of firmware from creality and all of them works the same. Can not understand why bl-touch don't work for zerro z stop for it.
It sounds like there is something either not configured correctly in the firmware or the BL touch probe is not wired correctly or is faulty. If you're still using Marlin firmware, make sure that #define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING is enabled and //#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PN is commented out.
@@FoulNews Thanks, I already created the design in meantime. Printing it now will check your desin. I might have to tune it anyway as i have CR-5 Pro hotend is thinner not sure if the hole will line up.
I will be setting up Klipper have ordered the pi 4. I have seen there is a varient of Klipper which supports the default DWIN screen, Have you tried that?
@@DoTheDiy Awesome, Klipper is well worth the install on this machine. With a Pi 4, it'll be a pretty quick job as well. I haven't tried using the default screen or bothered trying to get it to work just yet, but that does sound interesting.
I went with the Orbiter 2 mostly due to the weight and ease of installation. The Sprite is a bit over twice as heavy as the Orbiter 2 and would require a lot of extra work to install.
Thanks for the video. I also have a CR5 Pro and think about converting it to direct extruder since the first week I have it. Until now I always thought its not feasible mounting an extruder ontop the carriage due to the limited height, but you showed a quite elegant solution! I will try that to get a better print quality out of that huge box. Great Job!
Thanks! I'm glad to hear the video was helpful for you. Good luck with the install, it'll definitely help make a huge quality improvement as well!
I completely agree with the design flaws. I've been mocking up a direct drive as well for the past couple weeks. Interested to see the results you yield from the swap. I've also though about adding front linear rails and making a new bed mount.
I've gone through about 50kg of filament since this upgrade and I couldn't be happier! It works so much better now and I haven't had a single clog since. I think using new rails and a better bed mount would be a great idea. The most I'm able to get out of this printer is about 250mm/s at 5000mm/s^2 acceleration for PLA before the physical limitations of this Cartesian style kick in. If you convert it to corexy, or use linear rails, it should be able to push some significantly better speed.
I have this printer and need to replace my hot end. I cannot find that hotend anywhere. Creality does not offer it. Thanks for the video. I am planning on doing this upgrade as well because the current extruder is just not doing the job anymore.
The only place you can get the hot end from is AliExpress unfortunately. I had a Creality Spider V4 hotend on the printer for a few days, which requires a custom bracket, but the thermistor on that hotend died quickly. Other people have swapped over a Bambu Lab X1C hotend over on it, which seems to work really well. I rarely use this printer any more, but I'll probably swap over an X1C hotend as well since they are super cheap and work very well.
Here's the AliExpress OEM hotend if you decide to go that route: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802954375999.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=19158444193&albag=&trgt=&crea=en3256802954375999&netw=x&device=c&albpg=&albpd=en3256802954375999&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAqsitBhDlARIsAGMR1RiQ8PMWXgzyo4B-My_EZnK8q_rJTqtmmgz8O6WnugAMiB_qzsc-cBYaAmiNEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=2183fbc74a924df6b31a885357ea3c17-1706191953223-07441-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=2183fbc74a924df6b31a885357ea3c17-1706191953223-07441-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=1dbcc99fe69346a1b04b8a30d1faec1c&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Amazing, this is bringing my CR5 Pro H to life again! can you please share your klipper settings (printer.cfg)?
I wish I could see some step by step tutorials for CR-5 pro h Klipper installation. There's so much going on with it and it's different than Ender. I would like to use stock screen with it if possible.
Nice work! I got a pro h version and haven't been able to print, under and over extrusion at the same time. Will this work on the original board?
Thanks! Yes it will, but you'll need to make some changes to the firmware in order for it to work.
thx alot
Do you have an stl for the yellow brackets you’re using on your inside fan?
Unfortunately not, but Creality Support may have that shroud's file available.
great vid
ill try to do the same with the original board lets see how it turns out.
KR Dani
Thanks! Good luck!
Did you upgrade with original board? What driver and sense resistor settings did you use?
What firmware have you use for this motherboard? Where I can find firmware for Big tree tech mini E3 v 3.0 like yours but for Marlin?
This is used with Klipper since it's much easier to make changes to than Marlin. Marlin for SKR mini E3's can be found here: github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V3.0/Marlin
You'll need to modify it then compile it for your printer accordingly though.
@@FoulNews I'll try to do that. Thx
@@FoulNews maybe I will try to start it on klipper but i see that I need some extra details and skills
and will you share the printer.cfg file please?
Hi! Just recieved CR-5 PRO H and i have a question. It uses bl-touch for zeroing z axe and it behave strange for me. It makes 2 times probes with bl-touch and third time platform moves up until it stops at z-limit switch bracket wich is not actin on cr-5 pro h. So the z-motor continue to work untill it stops at overload like it crashes to obstruction. Is it the same for all cr-5 pro h? I tried all 3 versions of firmware from creality and all of them works the same. Can not understand why bl-touch don't work for zerro z stop for it.
It sounds like there is something either not configured correctly in the firmware or the BL touch probe is not wired correctly or is faulty. If you're still using Marlin firmware, make sure that #define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING is enabled and //#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PN is commented out.
@@FoulNews thanks for response.I use original firmware from creality and it's in .hex. Do you have scetch arduino version with original lcd support?
Did you adjust the current feed of the stepper driver to match the LDO stepper?
Yes, everything is setup in Klipper as per LDO's documentation.
Please share your printer.cfg file!
It would have been great if you would have shared step file, Sharing stl does not help as i want to improve on the design.
I just added the step file to the Thingiverse link.
@@FoulNews Thanks, I already created the design in meantime. Printing it now will check your desin. I might have to tune it anyway as i have CR-5 Pro hotend is thinner not sure if the hole will line up.
I will be setting up Klipper have ordered the pi 4. I have seen there is a varient of Klipper which supports the default DWIN screen, Have you tried that?
@@DoTheDiy Nice, good luck with it! It's a great upgrade.
@@DoTheDiy Awesome, Klipper is well worth the install on this machine. With a Pi 4, it'll be a pretty quick job as well. I haven't tried using the default screen or bothered trying to get it to work just yet, but that does sound interesting.
Why didn’t you just drill 2 holes in the original cover? That’s always better the the plastic one
This is much easier for maintenance and weighs less, which is important for pushing higher speeds. It's lasted just fine since the upgrade.
Have you thought about putting a sprite?
I went with the Orbiter 2 mostly due to the weight and ease of installation. The Sprite is a bit over twice as heavy as the Orbiter 2 and would require a lot of extra work to install.
What the name of program that you have use to change config in this printer?
This printer is setup on Klipper with Mainsail OS as the user interface.