Carburetor basics and troubleshooting
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- This is a Hyuai P18 or P127 Carburetor from a Honda GX200 clone engine also called a JF200. If your engine hunts/surges particularly at idle this video may help you identify the culprit. You should definitely check/clean/replace the idle jet. I've recently bought a carb cleaning kit on Amazon which you may find helpful for all of your carb tuning and cleaning.
www.amazon.com...
![OsamaSon - ik what you did last summer [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4DIQDnu3mr4/mqdefault.jpg)
You are one of the very few U Tube carb guys that show the DIY guys how to properly clean a carb,there are a ton of vids out there where the poster never shows the idle jet,the emulsion tube and the hidden fuel screen. Well Done Peter
The hidden fuel screen is located behind the fuel nipple which must be removed to access the screen,however after removing the float you can blow some carb cleaner the opposite way of the fuel flow and that might get you pass that step.😃
Very impressive. Wasn’t expecting to get my problem solved. This is the video I’ve been looking for for days. Thank you.
Thank you.. the best detailed answers i was looking for. Nobody else on youtube brakes it down. I watched vid after vid for an hour until i finally found yours. This answered everything for me. Im now a follower.
Thanks. I learn tons from watching others on RUclips and this is just one way in which I am able to give back to the community.
Thanks best explanation on You Tube ! I had cleaned my carb but was still surging .
After watching your explanation on how the carb works, I was able to clean the correct port to stop the surging . Thanks Again !
Finally someone explain these type of carbs .Thank you for the video !!!.....I have cleaned mine on a Honda 240 GX 8 H.P, and it surges ..I m going to re clean it and make sure the idle passages are cleaned well
what was the air mix screw set to? Was it at 2 turns out ?? I have the same engine and can't find anything
Started the snow blower after sitting for 3yrs without any use. Once I got it running again, it would not idle worth a crap and surged like crazy. Watched your video and got brave enough to pull the carb and clean the jet and all passages with a thin strand of wire. Put it all back together and now it idles really nice, is quiet, and I no longer have to run it with the choke on. Thanks for the Tips. Your video was very helpful!
Thank's a lot for the video, it was right on. I had the surging problem and the engine would die at idle with the choke removed. I had a plastic idle jet and cleaned it out with a thin wire. Now, it idles just fine and runs good.
Hey josh this video is perfect. Nice job. I've already had the carby off 5 times but now its gonna be a piece of cake. You answered my questions thoroughly and straight so thanks.
Thank you so so much ! Finally a very clear and understandable explanation.
TYVM! Finally a well done video that actually explains what I'm trying to find out. 👍👍
Thanks and you're welcome.
Funnly enough these have been too simple for me to understand... Until now haha I didn't realise like cars these are hidden under plastic to the untrained eye it's easily missed. But 100% this video was accurate to educate.
Dude, you must have a PhD in small engine repair!! Great explanation!
100% agree with you.
I had iddle control issues. That was really helpful!
Greetings from Argentina!
He never gives he secrets away but whatever it was it works like a champ he had been working on small engines since the age of ten now he's in his forty's
Just wanted to say Thank You, Thank You, for this video!! I bought a used generator and it had this surging problem you described here. Cleaned the carb (several times), but the problem persisted. Finally came across this vid, and realized this little plastic cap under the throttle stop screw contained a little pilot jet underneath. I removed and cleaned it, and my generator ran perfectly after that. Yahoo!!... Again thank you very much.
Yes, I do that and like to help others when I can.
Good explanation & thank you for the help! Mine was surging and i cleaned everything except for that idle screw you showed at the end and it runs fine starts on the first if not second pull & runs nice. Although mine was not a screw it looked like a plastic plug and underneith the plug there was a very tiny hole that was plugged.
Mine kept surging. This was exactly the issue. Thank you!!
great video - especially for jetting / venting
God bless you mate, you saved me so much trouble!
Thanks, Your fix worked perfectly.
gtrat Video, helped me fixed mi issue with rpm searching
Dude i think this is my problem with my mini bike carburetor.. Thanks 🙏
Happy to help
Your chime in the background sound so hypnotizing
www.musicofspheres.com/windchimes/
They've lasted over 10 years, outside 24/7/365.
Most excellent carburetor how to ever!
Thanks, I'm just trying to give back to the RUclips community.
Cleaned both the valves shown, 11 year old Genny runs like new. Thx.
I know a lot more about that little piece of junk. I will check it out. Thanks for posting.
The carby on my little kipor generator looks very similar to this one, this has helped me a lot , had that annoying surging since I bought it 2 years ago, worse part is you can't adjust the idle mixture screw as there is a plastic panel in the way..... have to remove the carby to gain access. Wound out that screw 1/2 a turn, runs mostly without surging now.
O m g I searched for hours and finally found this. I’m assuming the other screw you mentioned was the mixture valve?
There are 3 "screws" in the video.
For clarity the black plastic one is the minimum throttle stop. You can see how it stops the butterfly from going all the way shut. This can be adjusted to maintain a minimum throttle position. On a generator you'll never see this screw doing anything because the governor is always holding the throttle open to maintain the speed needed to generate 60 hz.
There is a brass "screw" that is below the black plastic one. This is the idle jet. It can not be adjusted. It is screwed in snug for normal operation and only removed for cleaning.
The last screw has a spring on it. I assume this is the one to which you were referring. This screw works to fine tune the minimum/idle fuel mix. Since generators never run at minimum speed this screw is kinda worthless on a generator. For a go cart this screw would work together with the plastic screw to even out idle operation and improve throttle response when goosing the throttle.
Hope that helps.
my pressure washer honda gx200 carburettor has the black plastic part that you mentioned instead of the screw, but I did not know that it could be removed. I don't like to trouble things if I am not sure what they are for because I have gotten myself in trouble before by doing that; It is good to learn before removing anything.
thanx Josh...I just finish cleaning my carb. and was having a lobbing issue. Looks like I need to clean the Idle control jet now...
Great video. I would add that the hole at the top left when looking at the butterfly is actually a vent for the fuel bowl and should not be mistaken for an air bleed like the two in the back of the carb where the choke is.
Chris Mills, very nice! Thanks for the added info! It is impossible to find any engineers notes or drawings for these things so I just kinda figured it out and shared what I learned.
Hi I got petrol leaking out this jet into filer, when engine is not running. Any ideas?
thank you for your support this video is helpful
That's exactly my problem. Thanks man. the bowl was filthy, sat over winter had moisture in it then I started it and rusty water and gas plugged it I am guessing
Thank you for this video. It was any easy fix thanks to you.
Josh Muckley it was more than helpful you saved me money and from missing work to get my mower fixed. Much appreciated, I'm working seven days a week. Thank you again
nice sir
Great video. Good info & to the point.
Okay I have the issue where the engine surges when I give it gas. Its on a minibike. Its a 196cc Honda clone with the generic carb they all have. I opened mine and cleaned it with sea foam but I did not remove the jet and drop the e-tube. But it runs perfect at idle. Mine has the plastic style junk on the top of the carb. A branch ripped the cable return spring off the top of the linkage when I was riding it 6 years ago, it sat with just a tiny bit of gas in it, just enough to go stale and gum up my carb....
Anyway the throttle return spring was bringing the throttle lever back further than it would normally go before I replaced the cable return spring. So the throttle return spring which goes to the governor arm is a little worn, maybe stretched. Tomorrow, I will pop the bowl back off remove the jet, clean that and the e-tube, pop the plastic piece off the top clean that off and out in their and see if it is better, one video showed where you can widen that using tiny drill bits if the problem persists. Than if I have to I will snip the throttle return spring making it a tiny bit shorter to add more tension to the governor arm if necessary. Mine has a screw with a square plastic cap on the back of the carb that prevents me from adjusting that, any idea what that is/does and if I need to mess with that? I can remove the plastic and than I can remove that screw and adjust that too if need be. Another video, I think an official honda video calls that a pilot screw. So whats the pilot screws function, its setting is about 2,1/2 turns out according to honda and it is set up where you cant change it much without removing that plastic, why? Any ideas what my issue is? Am I on the trail? Anyway I'll be back out there tomorrow and after properly cleaning all of that, hopefully its purring like a kitten again. The round bowl gasket shrunk, I barely got that on today so kinda leary about dropping the bowl again and the back paper gasket has a tear in one spot where the screw goes thru. Used silicone to repair that, but now leary about un-seating the carb again because of that.....
I will update how things went tomorrow. Let me know what you think in the meantime.
I'm just browsing through video by video.. came across this one, comments have been recently active, so I thought why not ask this question, in hopes for a god giving fix!! I've got a Briggs and Stratton Twin Cylinder engine, on a MTD rider. I'm repairing it, and it's going great so far! I don't know to much about small engines/mechanics.. so I apologize if I word things incorrectly.. learning as I go. I'm thinking it was the people that had it before me, they replaced the choke cable with a throttle lever, to permanently keep the choke partially closed, reason is because if the choke flap was wide open, the engine starts to die out. How could I fix that? I have already cleaned the carburetor. Hmm..
Thanks for the info! This is just what I needed. :-)
As an old guy,i'm glad fuel injection is here. Carburetors have been and always will be trouble. They need fuel injection on small engines!
@Anthony Torrey. Fuel injectors need cleaning too.
@@harryharry3193 and you feel the need to be rude? I can't state my opinion? Appreciate your comment my fellow American!
@anthonytorrey igx series. I'm a house washer. I've been told they are bad. Nothing but issues on the first gen on the fuel injection ones
very helpful thanks
Helped a lot! Thanks.
Thank you for the video!
Carb issues on 6.5hp dune buggy. Probably less than 20 hrs, never left outside. Gave it some ether. It started and settled down. Let it idle for 15 min to get warm. Won't start from pull rope without a tiny shot of either...then runs, idles fine. Turn key off and won't restart without a tiny boost of ether. Does that sound like needle valve junked up?
Kinda sounds like the butterfly is too far shut. Adjust the minimum throttle setting to hold the butterfly open just a bit. Cleaning the port in the black plastic won't hurt and setting the needle valve to 1 turn open won't hurt either.
Thanks a lot for the video, it immediately fixed our engine "surging" problem by cleaning the plastic jet on top.
But now we have another problem -- the engine of our Hyundai tiller stops.
It starts alright, idles perfectly and revs without any problem. It also drives smooth when on flat surfaces or going down.
BUT whenever there is a little upwards slope, specially in rocky / stoney terrain, no matter how much throttle we give it, it just stops.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance 👍🏼
There is almost not doubt this is being caused by the pickup tube in the float bowl being uncovered and sucking air in. To an extent it is simply the result of the OEM poorly choosing a float style carb. Float style depend on gravity. Impulse and pump styles are much more tolerant to various engine and tank orientations. You problem may be being exasperated by a dirty fuel filter (probably in the tank, maybe as part of the fuel shutoff valve). You may be able to improve the situation by tweaking the level in the bowl a bit higher. This might be done by bending the float arm slightly. Check the filter first.
@@muckleyj Many thanks for the ultra-quick response, Josh 👍🏼
I was just now reading about similar issues when the gas cap is blocked or faulty.
Will test-drive later today with loosened cap and get back yo you.
Once again, thank you very much from Georgia (the country, not the US state) 🙋🏼♂️
@@jfpello Georgia! Wow! Thanks for reaching out.
So I just had to replace the carb on my simpson pressure washer, its almost identical to the one here in the video, but it has that black pry cap where the brass screw is as you said your other one has, and its idling a little low. Because its a pain to get to and figure out what does what while its running, I am trying to figure out which screw, if any, controls the idle speed. I got my washer working and I havent properly adjusted the carb yet so I need to do that before I actually use it on my driveway.
The idle speed is set by the brass screw that keeps the butterfly open. The screw actually pushes on the linkage plate attached to the shaft of the butterfly.
have a 2014 Craftsman snow shredder briggs 15c107-0014-f8
got the unit with seized engine ( fixed the engine part ) tried to start carb gummed up !!!
Took apart carb cleaned main jet ( plugged )
Cleaned emulsion tube ( 3 holes plugged )
reassembled engine surging !!! this carb has a Viton rubber tipped needle ok , no Viton rubber SEAT .
Took the Carb apart 2 nd time , this time Soaking the Housing in CLR 4 hrs , then Soaking Housing in Solvent .
NOW RUNNING BETTER but still IDLING ROUGH !!!!!!!!!!!!
Smooths out with Choke slightly ON !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you I got my generator running. But, you mentioned two areas I missed during the cleaning.
Glad to hear that this video is still helping people so many years later!
Mine was also surging. It is a close/ Huayi on a 208 engine. Turns out that the carb was missing the needle valve on the idle side of the carb. I have looked everywhere but could not find anywhere to buy just this part. It is not part of a typical parts of rebuild kit.
Sorry, I evidently never saw this comment. Are you referring to the black screw part which I point out in this video? That was missing? It may have been installed under a welsh plug or made permanent in some other way.
Very nice video,very helpful explanation about the idle circuit.Would you happen to know what would cause an engine using this carburetor to stall out under a load step, but then be able to handle that load it the carb is choked about halfway? My version of the carb does not have the one hole that you point out on the carb face for the P tube aeration supply. It is not drilled.
***** Thanks for the reply back, that was my suspicion also.
thanks for the great detailed explanation. what's the other black screw adjustment right above and perpendicular to the screw jet that you point to @3:58?
It's been a few years since I've messed with these. That is the screw that keeps the inner butterfly from jamming in the throat of the carb.
Josh of All Trades cool, thanks for the quick reply!
I have a Coleman mini bike and it idles real high and surges. Doesn’t do a thing if I adjust my idle speed or the air screw. I feel like these carbs are so cheap sometimes I rather not deal with the headache and just get a new one.
Yeah totally understand and agree. I will say that most of the problems I have encountered are a result of either ethanol fuel or any fuel being left idle in the machine. Ethanol tends to break down rubber and plastic parts and also absorbs moisture.
If the throttle won't come down it seems like the butterfly must be being held open by something. Varnish in the throat of the carb can make the butterfly sluggish and may stick open.
thanks great video!!!
quick question i got a predator 212 engine that start up fine and stay on as long as the choke is closed. but as soon as i open the choke the engine turns off. do you know how i can fix the problem. or what can i do
Check your fuel line for a pin hole, or make sure your gaskets are good on the carb. It's sucking extra air in somewhere.
My spark plugs keep fouling. Could it be air fuel mix or a valve problem. I've had to pull the plugs and clean them before it'll run again.
fouled spark plugs mean it is rich. too much fuel or not enough air. main jet might be too big...or maybe the choke is stuck slightly closed?
My aration tube is spitting out gas and my honda is idling rough and hard to start any advice on how I can fix this?
Is that idle control screw adjustable because it doesn't have anything to keep it in place. Vibration of the engine makes it turn if not screwed completely down.
Is it a generator? When it falls out, does it make a difference to the performance of the engine? If not, maybe just leave is out. Who cares. On the other hand if if does make a difference, try blue lock-tite. Use a q-tip to put in the threads and threads alone. Let it dry completely. Try it. You can also use pliers or other hard tool to mar or flatten some of the threads to make it stiffer in the hole. Of course new carbs are only a few bucks.
@@muckleyj No it's a club car golf cart. Backing off of it does make it run better but the vibration of the engine makes spin back down. I don't see the point in having it if you can't adjust it except to clean it. Very confusing. And it is a new carb. Everyone I've seen like this one is the same way.
Probably keeping the min throttle position set right. What about replacing the plastic screw with a machine screw? You could even use a lock nut to hold it in place if it was a metal machine screw.
I replaced the carburetor with a brand new one and now the engine won’t start. Any ideas? 💡
Fuel, air, spark, compression. IF you touched nothing but the carburetor then you can probably rule out spark and compression. Air is controlled by the throttle linkage to the carb butterfly and the choke lever. Fuel is probably the most likely problem and if you can quickly eliminate the first 3 then you can buckle down with fuel.
If the float bowl filling? Is fuel making it to the combustion chamber - after repeated attempts to start, the spark plug may be wet.
I'm guessing that the needle valve or float are stuck on the seat preventing the bowl from filling. There is a chance that the position of the throttle screw is messed up - try a quarter turn in either direction.
Are you getting any responses from the engine. A spurt or a sputter? A brief start then stop?
Is the engine flooded (wet spark plug)?
what do u do if there is plastic instead of a screw
It should just pop out. Pry it out.
*and if that's not the problem, then what to look for?*
Dirt, debris, or varnish in all the other ports. There isn't much left to look at. The point of the video was to show that the idle jet gets overlooked because it is plastic and just looks like a plug or something.
@@muckleyj So if all those are in working order, and you STILL have surging/hunting... then time for new carb?
Did you know that the slotted brass up inside the part that holds the bowl on is a actually the main jet? Have you removed it for cleaning? The e-tube should come out with it and needs cleaned too.
What about the tiny little ports where the fuel from the idle jet comes into the carb (right by the butterfly)? Those might require a Welch plug to be removed and replaced. The welsh plug is just a circular concave piece of metal. It's a little more difficult to get out and will probably be destroyed in the process. Cheap to replace. Of course by this time it might just be cheaper to replace the carb.
@@muckleyj *I removed and cleaned all the jets and nozzles that are easy to access, including the main. Needle valve looks pretty good though may have some microscopic pitting, a simple vacuum-style test gave back good results. All the parts were shine and brand new in appearance, the float is white like a celebrity's teeth. Main issue is hunting/surging. I also replaced the spark plug. It runs better but not perfect.*
Sounds like you pretty much hit everything. The ports in the side of the carb throat where the idle just discharge comes out might be your last chance. You could also ream the idle jet a slight bit for more fuel.
So that screw you said to tighten at the end, I have the plastic variety and it is, seemingly, the cause of my idle issues. Should I replace it or what exactly?
That's my problem you didn't really elaborate on what you do with the plastic piece after you take it out
Sorry to have mislead you. I was suggesting that you clean the idle jet. To do that you remove it and pass a fine file through the hole. I have ultra micro drill bits that work good too. The plastic type just snaps in. A pair of slip joint pliers should get it out.
Pass a fine wire, carb cleaning file, acetylene torch file, or micro drill bit through it. The gunk feels different than the metal on metal you feel when it is clean.
www.amazon.com/Cleaning-Carburetors-Sprinklers-Professional-Oxy-Acetylene/dp/B07X228R1L/ref=zg_bs_10704398011_3/141-3807612-5508469?pd_rd_i=B07X228R1L&psc=1
www.amazon.com/Hobart-770086-Welding-Oxy-Acetylene-Cleaner/dp/B0017Z1SXA/ref=zg_bs_10704398011_4/141-3807612-5508469?pd_rd_i=B0017Z1SXA&psc=1
hello my carburator doesnt have a iddle screw what does that mean? i seen alot of videos on the internet and all carbs i seen have iddle screws but mine doesnt,,,, my pressure washer revvs like crazy when i put a work load on it ..... look up my video "pressure washer revving" its the first video that pops up it shows what my machine does when im pressure washing...
I accidentally snapped the head off the black mixture screw. Is it possible to drill that out and replace it or should I just buy a new carburetor?
Chinese carbs are super cheap. That being said I would try a small drill bit to make a pilot hole then us a wood screw to screw in and give you something to pull on with pliers. As I recall that black screw isn't a screw at all and removing it requires pulling/prying.
@@muckleyj thanks I’m going to try a speed out first and if that doesn’t work then I’m going to try drilling it out. It is a plastic machine screw that doesn’t take a whole lot of pressure to go in or out so hopefully I can replace it without having to pull the carb, it’s new!
My problem is that it won't start on choke,hafta give a shot of carb cleaner then all good,. What gives?
I think your butterfly might just be a bit too far closed. Try adjusting the throttle screw in a tiny bit.
I took a float off of the go-kart motor how is the right way to put it back on it's got a little spring with spring
hi I have a predator 212 Cc motor and wouldn't run with the choke off so I bought new carb. well put new in and same. thing please help.
Hey Josh, I'm having that surge issue also. My generator runs great for about a minute then surges then stalls. I soked carb for 2 days in carb cleaner then cleaned using KnL probes and blew out all parts including that jet. I still have surge issue. What do you recommend?
If you change out the main jet, do you need to change out the emulsion tube as well? Also when doing this, should you replace the idle jet?
If you are changing the orifice size of any jet then all bets are off, I don't know. Otherwise just clean and reinstall or remove and reinstall.
What is that jet called that makes the suction ?
The jet that makes the suction? The engine makes the suction. The jets just meter the amount of fuel during various throttle positions. The black plastic one I show in the video is what I would call the "idle jet" since it is metering fuel while the engine is at idle. The "main jet" is slotted and threaded. It screws up inside the suction tube that pulls fuel out of the float bowl. Those same threads ultimately hold the bowl on too. I didn't show it in the video but if you use a medium flat blade screw driver up the hole you can remove the main jet and the E-tube should just fall out. Replacing/modifying the main jet and e-tube is the method that you would use to tune the carb for different fuels, altitudes, and force induction. These carbs only have 2 jets. Main and idle. Hope that helps.
Hello I have a Honda GCV160. The mower is a Toro Quadra Cut System and my engine is flooding. When the mower sits, the gas leaks out of the air filter. I replaced the carburator with a new one. The mower started right up but if I turn it off, it doesn't start again. I took the spark plug off and the engine was flooded again. If it was the float or the needle that was not working that should have been fixed with the new carburator. Do you have an idea of what it might be? Thanks
Thanks for your response. I decided to just close the gas line as soon as I turn it off. That way the engine doesn't get flooded and it starts again. Thanks..
my pressure washer didn't start after a few years in storage. I removed the jet on top of the carb while cleaning. it now revs high & smokes I may have put weed eater gas but I drained that best I could. could the jet I removed make it rev high & burn rich?
yes, I finally figured it out. I had thrown the governor off by loosening the screw. after watching a few vids I got it back running good. thx for reply
HI Josh Is surging the same thing as bogging down? and are they both caused by a lack of fuel? When the black adjusting screw that's above the jet that you are talking about is adjusted what does it actually do?
Black plastic screw is the idle control screw. In this application is really just keeps the butterfly from shutting too far and jamming in the throat of the carb. In other applications is sets the idle or minimum RPM.
Surging is a vroom, vroom, vroom that is not caused by the operator. Bogging down is not the same thing. Bogging is usually seen on carbs with a high jet and a low jet. If the low jet is too far closed or slightly clogged then the throttle response will be delayed. The engine will bog unless you pump the throttle. See my other video on tuning a typical 2 Stroke
A very good video.. thank you, my problem with my generator is when I load it with house load (about 6 to 8) Amp it shuts down, it's generator capacity is 10-12 Amps. Any help appreciate.
The engine shuts down or the electrical output shuts down?
@@muckleyj the engine shuts down.. electric output is good nothing wrong with it.. how do I know if the engine giving its max power? Do valves bridge screws play a role? Cause I tightened them once so the engine hardly started..then I losen them a bit so starting got smoother..
@@zeyadalsheikh3839, I don't know to what you are referring with a "valve bridge screw". I'm not sure I can help. Sorry.
@@zeyadalsheikh3839, aside from whatever problems you are having with the "valve bridge screw", if the carb is simply not able to provide enough fuel then the engine would be overloaded. I believe this would be observed as the governor keeping the throttle wide open and any additional load just reducing the RPM since the governor would be maxed out. If you haven't cleaned the main jet a e-tube, give that a try.
@@muckleyj This is good for me.. I'll try to clean the main jet e-tube and see. Aside from all, what I meant about valve bridge screw is the the nut over the frame that locks valve end rod to transfer movement from crank to valves to open and close them in combustion cycle. Thanks for help. Your video is great.. keep on.
is it a gasket or a diaphram that goes on the side of the engine? between the insulator and the motor do you have a picture of it?
Gasket
I have an ETQ generator with a 13 hp knockoff engine. It will only run on full choke. It has a Huayi carburetor with a solenoid but I can't figure out how to disassemble it for cleaning. Is it a throwaway?
They don't seem to store very well, had same problem and ran carburetor cleaner in the gas much more than bottle stated with small amount of gas and it cleared. Had same problem with snowblower. Now I store with both with gas additive and cleaner. Technically you really suppose to turn off gas and drain the bowl on the carb.
I have a problem with my generator. it runs idly when the choke is close and then stop working when the choke is open. what do I do?
Thank you.
Question, does it still idle if carb is all the way closed? Like if the the black lever on top of carb is turned all the way clock wise?
Depends... Generally yes. You should have "Choke off", "Half choke", and "Full choke". Full choke ensures that the air fuel mix is rich (less air to fuel) for starting - usually when cold, especially in cold weather conditions. Without the choke the engine may not even start. Almost immediately after starting, the engine will run rough because it is running really RICH - it may die. If subsequent restarts are required but unsuccessful, full choke could result in flooding the engine. If the spark plug is wet with fuel it will fail to create a spark and continued attempts to start just admit more fuel thus keeping the plug wet. Generally, after a sputter, start, die sequence you should move to half choke. This helps to ensure that a rich A:F mix is still being provided but significantly reduced the likelihood that the engine will die and/or flood. Once the engine internals are up to temperature the fuel vaporizes much more easily. Remember it is not the solid or liquid in any form of combustion that are burning. It is the gasses being give off as a result of increased temperature or reduced pressure. Look up pyrolysis. I'll say that part again - it is not the solid or liquid in any combination that are burning. It is the gasses being give off. When the internals of the engine are cold the fuel does not vaporize as well as when the engine is hot thus the need for a choke.
So, the choke device creates an obstruction in the air flow. Full choke is a full obstruction. Choke off is the position where the obstruction is minimized or eliminated.
Hey man I was wondering if you could help me out my carburetor is getting to much fuel causing it to flood and the motor to cut off any answers?
Ok upon starting the motor I pump the primer the recommended times to prime and when I get it going a puff of black smoke comes out of the exhaust after that it will run for about 3 minutes tops before shutting itself off the motor is only 7 months old
It's on a predator engine I just checked my spark plug and it was dry took my carburetor apart and and soaked it carb and choke cleaner going to see if it stays running this time I appreciate your help
Ok Josh update on the predator engine that I was telling you about I ended up taking it to a mechanic and found out the compression was really low causing the gas to seep into the crankcase so he replaced the spark plug and raised the compression and changed the oil and now it's running like new again thank you for responding and trying to figure out what could've been wrong.
My carb off my Champion 6.5hp OHV looks just like that, except it omits the two idle adjustment screws, it has just the main big black screw to adjust idle. After sitting all winter the carb was gunked up, and I gave it a cleaning. Now, it fires right up but is surging. And mine doesn't have a black plastic cap in place of the idle screw, it has a brass plug. Should I still remove that and attempt more cleaning?
*****
I decided to have another go at it after watching your video and a few others. I pulled out the brass tab on top and it is indeed the orifice. It wasn't plugged, but i gave it a good cleaning anyway. This inexpensive carb has only the one adjustment screw and even that one doesn't seem to do much. The engine seems to be running too rich, as evidenced by the appearance of the spark plug and the lack of throttle response. If I push it full throttle it dies. I did try riding the go kart around the block, but lots of missing, no throttle response but it eventually got up to speed even without any real throttle response, basically because it is idling too high. I think maybe starting with a new carb may do the trick.
Yeah, I was trying to get my go kart going so I can sell it. Was hoping someone else would take it off my hands and fix it, but I'll probably spend the $20 myself to get a replacement.
David Meyer
Turns out the carb was just fine. I had removed the gas tank to clean it and when it went back on the linkage got out of alignment so it idled too high. It took a new carb and more tinkering to discover the issue!
looks different than 420 predator, slightly not sure of screw on slde
The 420 is twice the engine. It should look different. The theory of operation is the same and most of the parts correlate but are not interchangeable. Do you have a question?
@@joshmuckley7979 no, we are putting the 420 on old club cars, with a remote choke cable and 90 pipe off muffler. the engine is 14hp and jumpy. the 212cc engine might be smoother. guy at local sells huskavarna engines that might be better on golf cart. club cars have the windup clutch.
dont like the plastic choke axle on chinese engines, it slides thru the axle, no screws. backfired and broke with air box off.
I just changed the carb and now it surges really bad. Only starts with clutch and dies if I put it on slow. Made sure the carb matched and gaskets lined up. Any suggestions?
Also it's a Honda hrb216
hello sir. I have a problem with my generator. when load is applied, it runs normal for some time then slightly drop then pick again. I have cleaned the carburetor using carburetor-cleaner but the problem still persist.
Sorry, I never saw this comment before. Did you ever get it figured out? Generators can be difficult to troubleshoot because it is hard to see the "load". To be honest it sounds like your load is starting or stopping. Refrigerators and freezers are great examples of this type of cyclical load which you will most definitely hear as a change in the engine RPM.
What is Phillips head screw above jet?
Black plastic screw is the idle control screw. in this application is really just keeps the butterfly from shutting too far and jamming in the throat of the carb.
Thank you
my predator engine cab is plan it dont have much adjustment
What if it's a new carb. Would you say it just need tuning
There isn't much to tune. Tuning consists of changing jets, emulsion tube, and throat size... Not something that a new carb needs or is easy to do.
Just put a brand new carburetor on and its exhibiting the same symptoms. Any other reasons why it would do this besides a dirty carb?
What is the symptom?
@@muckleyj surging. Almost stops then surges. Pull choke on slightly and it smooths out.
@@daniellunn1304, it could be clogged already with manufacturing debris. Try adjusting the needle valve first. If that makes no difference then look for the idle jet that I point out in the video. Remove it and attempt to clean it.
@@muckleyj ok. Thanks
fixed that problem and now itll start if I pump the throttle but it wont stay running. I plan on replacing the spark plug tomorrow. the chains r kinda rusty, could that be part of the problem?
+Josh Muckley no, it dies. I would say carb needs cleaned but the carb looks good. before I got it, it'd been sitting for awhile
+Josh Muckley ok, I'll clean the carb and c if that helps. thnx
I cleaned my carb yesterday but didn't realize I also need to clean the idle suction jet. I cleaned it out and the engine runs much smoother now. The choke doesn't have a good feel to it and it floats or bobbles about and eventually it will start to choke the engine out and i get black exhaust smoke. The choke doesn't seem to have a good click or defined position when open. Do you have any suggestions?
The choke is usually either ON or OFF. Sometimes there is a half choke but either way it really isn't an exact science. Really the choke is only there to get the engine, carb and fuel system primed when the engine is cold. Once it is running you can usually turn the choke off. On the off chance that you can't then just keep the choke until the engine is warmed up then turn it off.
If the choke butterfly is loose or separated from the stem, or the lever is loose from the stem, or neither are loose but there is no detent to hold the position then look to correct the applicable problem.
@@muckleyj The choke handle is pretty loose and installed correctly. It bounces all over the place when the generator is running. I have another carburetor on the way. They are cheap and my wife needs the generator for a food truck event.
@@andyking5651 sounds good man. A rubber band tied off to the frame might be the answer in the mean time. Is there any chance that bending the choke lever up or down will keep it tight against a detent or something? Good luck.
New carb fixed the problem completely. I could have tried something else but my wife uses it with her food truck so I need to be sure the generator is dependable. I spent $20 for it and it was worth it to me.
I'm having a problem on my predator 212 stage 1, when i hit top speed it sputters and if i hold the throttle fully open for about 15 seconds while its sputtering it bogs down and dies with a full tank. I'm guessing i may need a new carb or just to clean out the things you've listed but would you know why this is happening?
Sounds like it is possibly starving out. If the pickup tube or its orifice is dirty that would do it every time. I don't think I mentioned it in the video but if you run the largest flat blade screwdriver that will fit up the pickup tube, you can unscrew the orifice and the actual brass emulsion tube will come out with the orifice. The orifice is the part with threads. Clean them both and try again.
ruclips.net/video/Xulm7W61bJ4/видео.html
which way will the idle mixture screw go for it to richen it up? in or out? i have a clone engine and put a bigger main jet in it but am looking to fine tune the idle.
I believe out to riches. Mine was to rich so I went back to 1 1/2 turns out from seated and it's leaner now
Out or counterclockwise will open up the needle valve to admit more fuel. The idle control screw is opposite. You increase idle RPM by turning in or clockwise. This will hold the butterfly further open.
I have predator 212cc motor on my kart,runs great till I make a sharp turn then it dies. I've replaced the carb. Get the same results when making sharp turn,any ideas what's the problem
Josh Muckley ,that's my thought also,I just can't figure solution to the problem. With the carb bowl, there's no adjustment,I've got half tank of gas in the gas tank,you any suggestions
Low oil sensor
It’s definitely the low oil sensor. There a many videos on how to delete that.
very nice
hey do you know where to put the gaskets? I bought a replacement and it came with 3 gaskets
One each on the flat faces of the carb (in and out). The 3rd is probably for the plastic "isolator" which is really just seems like an extension which stands the carb away from the face of the engine. The third one will have a different profile. If it doesn't then it might just be extra.
@@muckleyj yes it is a different profile
@@azn789456 carb insulator - images.app.goo.gl/NJfR3mPjFyKKgrCs7
I put a new carb on my gx340 and it will only run on choke, whay could be the cause?
Josh Muckley I ordered it online especially for this model
Josh Muckley ok thanks
J.K.P Mon find the beat one?
can these adjustments be done while the carb is on or is it too hard to get to?
I took the carb off and pushed a small wire through the hole but it didn't seem to have anything in it. isn't there a way to adjust the carb without taking it off, that's a lot of taking off and putting back on just to see if you got it right
the bottom, the side hole is so big i can see there is no obstruction. symptoms are the idle goes up and down constantly
yes that's what i pulled out and mine was a plastic plug with one large hole through the side and one very tiny hole in the bottom (the were all clear). I wish i could draw a pic to show you
no haven't gotten that far yet but that's a really good idea and that may end up fixing it, I'll do that tomorrow and get back with you, thanks for the help
just a note: i'm was looking to and may still put a 2 or 3 way carb on this but i've heard running it on propane or natural gas is bad for the valves, have you heard of that?
i don't know about you but i can't even see that screw let alone adjust it, is there a special tool for that or a special way of getting to it
engine only runs when you put fuel in carb
My stuff is surging with a brand new carb
Brand new brand name or brand new chinese knockoff from ebay or amazon? I'd be surprised if it is a brand name that is giving you trouble. A knockoff probably needs the idle jet cleaned or widened a small fraction.
No wonder things don’t work. I found dirt in the gas tank, n was told to remove it to clean it, I ain’t doing that! Carb is as far as I’m willing to go.
If you are willing to do the carb then the tank is way less involved. Many times there is a filter between the tank and the carb, the dirt will clog it up. When you go to change the filter you can pull the hose from the carb and drain the tank through the filter... Even without a filter much of the dirt will drain out and you can simply refill. Be aware though that some tank fittings have a built in filter/strainer that might need changed too.
Could this jet you point to at the end be the cause of hard starting? I can pull my guts out for more than a dozen times and nothing, but if I give it a little throttle it will usually fire up in one or two pulls and once running it's fine
Maybe... If you haven't cleaned it then it's certainly worth a try. What about just dialing in the throttle screw to hold the butterfly open a little bit? Have you tried that?
@@muckleyj not yet but I thought about that. The generator is brand new but I've had it for quite some time without ever taking it out of the box until the other day. It's only a cheap generic generator so it could be out of adjustment from the factory but the carb looks identical to that in your video. Thanks for the fast reply.
That's a my carburetor idles high no matter what can not slow idle down cable is OK
Thanx we 'all try.... fingers crossed... thanks once more I'll let ya know...
+James Goodrich I got the same problem! Did you fix it because I really need help!
Intake leak