I did a iron man costume for me and a war machine for my son out of card board and some velcro dots. But I used your videos to help. It's amazing mate, cheers!
It's about time some one did this and in my opinion it had to be you. I have a good grasp of scaling and have/am helping many in this but now I don't have to try to explain in tells because I have a great video reference to link now. Thank you Dave for not only the useful link but also returning to us after such a long time.
The guys on the 405th forum are reliable, they have good clean files on there. I have never had a problem in the years I've been getting files from there. Good luck.
Just so you know, you're my inspiration for making my costumes, although my work isn't a great standard and I take an extremely long time I always think about what you would say and how you would get round a problem. Stops me from giving up! From me a big thank you!!
Of course it will! Just remember to take your time, make it match. People tend to rush through and neglect the importance of the pepping stage. After all... what you pep out will be the shape and look of the final piece. If there are any mistakes or irregularities that you can see prior to hardening, this is the time to take care if it! As it is 10x harder to deal with once it's a solid. Dave/Cereal.
Wow, this really helped me out so much! I have a hard time visualizing things like this, so all of your videos have helped me understand how to actually make things work, thank you!
Dave, thanks for another great video. A few comments. You stated to use the "longest measurement of the piece." In the case of the gauntlets its the width because the model has two gauntlets side by side. Thus, the height of the model is the dimension you're looking for. Since they're pretty close I'd say you got lucky in having your gauntlet fit. (Try pepping using height.)
Great video overall. The only thing I would say is the question about "Can I use regular printer paper?" I realize you work with resined paper and for that you can't, however if you are working with foam, then regular printer paper will work just fine. In that case you are strictly using the paper as a template for the foam, so it really doesn't need any structural strength. Otherwise, nothing to add. Thanks for taking the time to make your videos!
yes you can use regular paper for templates as long as it only for the templates. cardstock is more sturdy for templates, but if you are not wanting to pay for cardstock paper then regular printer paper can work as well. ONLY FOR FOAM!
I just want to say that you are an amazing person. I have watched multiple videos from you now and you make everything SO easy to understand! I have been trying to figure out Pepakura for a long time and I just kept assuming I was too dumb to understand any of it, but you have shown me that it's really simple once you have all of the information. I wish I could meet you in person so I could just give you a big hug. XD
That is a great tip, thank you! I honestly have never before, used the "measure two points function" in pep designer and applied a real measure to it. I will most certainly be trying this out :)
Also, use the "measure two points" feature in Pepakura Designer. The gauntlets have two length rulers for just this purpose. Measure from your wrist to the inside of your forearm where the joint is. Convert to mm. Then use the measurement feature in Pepakura Designer to measure the length of the smaller (inside) ruler. Adjust the model scale until that measurement equals the measurement you took on your body. That's a guaranteed fit.
Thanks for this one Dave. I'm new to Pepakura and would have made some of these rookie mistakes so you have just saved me a lot of time :-) I look forward to the rest of your Halo build.
There is a utility in Pep designer called - Measure Two Points - This will allow you to choose 2 arbitrary points on a pep file and measure the span between them. (Say, the inside top of the helmet to the lowest point.) What you would do is measure the top of your head to the lowest point where the helmet would fit, convert to -mm- and then scale the piece until that measure is equal to the one you took from your body. (remember to compensate for padding/thickness!)
Hey Abulia, You are absolutely correct!!! What I did when I pepped out my forearms is I separated the left and right pieces into individual files as I had some plans to modify one of the forearms in a specific way. I didn't dawn on me in the video until you brought it up about the two pieces being viewed as a whole,,, My mistake, I apologize!
I had to sand open the hole until it'd fit. Wearing gloves helps space that out. I had also used an under suit to bulk up the upper body. Which means that proportionally my hand would be smaller in comparison to arm thickness. As for the shins, when you do them, see if you can slide your foot in with the shin backwards and then rotate it around to the correct side. Just trying to give you another option maybe.
The question you're asking is kind of a catch 22. Iron man (I will be doing a build soon!) is tricky, as with the actual costume (used in movie) the helmet is actually a 3 piece setup, allowing it to fit the head symmetrically and scale well. Unless you're ready to go the extra mile and cut the piece up, it will always have to be somewhat over-sized. As far as scaling goes, the above ^ video covers everything you need to know. The piece you are scaling doesn't matter it all crosses over!
When you scale pep for foam, remember the thickness of the foam plays a big factor in the piece. When pepping with paper that is 1/8 of a mm thick it goes unnoticed. But when using foam that is anywhere from 1/8" ~ 3/8" thick, you have to make sure that you will have enough room inside the piece once it's done. Measure the thickness of your foam, then double it! (eg. 1/4" foam doubled is 1/2") You have to add that extra 1/2 inch as well as your 1" to 1-1/2" breathing room.
Yeah, resins are one of those very foggy and grey areas, you can pay anywhere from $65 ~ $120 per gallon depending on brand/quality. For the application we're using the resins for (costume & props), it doesn't really matter. If you were building a car body or a boat hull.... that's a different story. You can use any brand you wish, the only choice you need to make is weather the resin type will be polyester or epoxy.
For either piece, you want to use the measurement which has the greatest span. Head = Bottom of chin to top of head (then add 1.5 inches for padding and grace room) Chest = Lowest rib (side) to top of shoulder (add same 1.5 inches) :)
Correct! The biggest differences are: - Save your work - Exporting features - Possibly measure 2 points feature (not too sure on that one thought as I use the designer version)
Correct! However, for reference I have never had a feed issue with 110 lb paper in any printer, there should be no issues with that. Unless you are using a laser printer that is > 8 years old.
Finally, some models have a scale of "82" in them, representing the height of the Master Chief in inches. If your model has a scale of "82" then you can, typically, take your height in inches, add 1-2 for padding, and adjust the scale to your height. For example, I am 5'9" and adjusting to from "82" to "71" gets me a piece that fits pretty close. Note, this trick doesn't work on all models, only those that have a default scale of "82." Finally, pep low def models for testing purposes.
First off I'd like to say that your videos are truly the best. I began watching one and ended up watching them all. Now I'm hyped up and ready to go. I have tried making my own Pep helmet but the sizing was WAY off. You may have already answered this and I am sorry if you have but what is the best way to scale the helmet? I just don't want to Print, cut, and glue all just to discover that my helmet is too big or small. Thanks and please keep the videos coming!
First off, I just want to say thank you for taking the time to make a tutorial like this, it's helped me understand a lot as well as others I'm sure. I think I only have one question. I'm working on a Mark IV Ironman build, and it's been pretty frustrating so far. Anyways, should I be adding an inch and a half to two inches to everything I measure on myself?
What I would do is print out one finger. Move all of the pieces that make 1 finger onto 1 sheet and print them out. Assemble it and put it on. That's the best way to go about it, everyone's fingers from joint to joint are different lengths and thicknesses. Because of the small spaces between each joint and that there is little room for error, this is how I would approach it.
You can set the scale by selecting the menu; [2DPatternWindow]-[Change the Scale of Development]-[Specify the Scale]. Note that this feature is only available on Pepakura Designer. Pepakura Viewer does not have this feature. (If you want to scale with Pepakura Viewer, please try to do that by changing printer setting.) HERE HOPE THIS HELPS FROM PEPAKURA WEBSITE!
Is this what you do for work? If you do I can see why, you're attention to detail an descriptions are great. You're videos are always great and informative. You have a website yet?
Great job man, been following your videos for a while, just gotta say miss watching them.. when you gonna finish your armor tutorial? I wanna see how you finish up, cheers
Some parts are tricky. The biggest problem is that on one person is going to "scale perfectly" I would be measuring and scaling to match the most important dimension of the piece (the palm and length and width) that distance is more important than the depth. The depth will most likely have to be changed on the fly. Meaning increased or decreased in depth once the piece is built. chances are if you scale by depth, the other 2 dimensions will not fit. Then you'll have a mess!
More specifically 110 lb card stock, unless your printer will not feed it correctly, then 65 lb. The stronger (thicker) the paper, the better, because when you get to the fiberglass resin stage, it will resist bowing better.
Good video - really like the picture-in-picture effect, but doesn't work so well when you're pointing and referring to items on the monitor but is covered up by the inset.
The measurement that I would begin with would be the longest. (top of the head, and down to the lowest part of the helmet) to that measurement I would add an 1-1/4", No more. This extra is only to compensate for the thickness of the piece as well as any padding you put on the inside. As far as re-attaching the 3 pieces together, being that the jaw piece is relatively light and small, I would use Velcro strips. Same deal for the face plate as I am assuming you would like it to be removable.
Dude I'm so glad I stumbled among your channel, specially this video since I will be making a Ironman Mark VII suit and had lots of questions about scaling and sizing. Thanks a lot for the tips man! One question though do you know if a regular laser printer and the silhouette Cameo would take 120 lb paper stock?
lol I just want to say, before I knew anything about pepakura, I did not know of card stock or glues. I created Master Chief's helmet, boots, shoulder pads, and chest piece... but only out of printer paper and scotch tape XD
It has been a while. Very nice video editing and awesome tutorial. Do you have any experience with Foam armors. I've never done one, but I assume it's roughly the same thing.
The "viewer" does exactly that. "View". You cannot scale, measure or alter the files in any way using Pep Viewer. What you will need is Pepakura Designer which is available for download at the tamasoft website. See my video "What is Pepakura" for more detailed instructions/information
That would depend on the piece in question. What model are you pepping? Which component specifically? What is you're scale (in mm)? If it is a larger piece (piece of a torso or thigh) they can get quite large. I'd need more info.
I appreciate the depth and detail. I seem to be having an unusual situation. Regardless what i have tried I simply don't have nor can i find a way to add PDF to the drop print menu. I have my personal printers showing with no problems.. It seems to allow saving as most anything and everything else associated as a valid file format. I actually updated my PDF today for that matter that issues did nothing to change my print functions in my licensed version of Pepakura 3. I have even looked at the free viewer and the High Definition ver. none of the 3 versions of Pepakura have any option i can find to allow PDF printing.. Quite puzzled any ideas as to where my issue is. I'm Using Windows 7 if that helps. Thank you.
Do people like me usually have to adhere the pieces to the underarmour in some way? to prevent slipping and rotating. The forearm for instance, How do you keep it from sliding down or turning around when you don't have enough meat underneath it to fill it out? In other words, would padding it suffice or would it require some sort of Velcro under every piece to keep it from moving.
Being that I have no idea of your overall height, I can't really say right or wrong. But to put things into perspective, I'm 6' tall and have a very tall upper body. The Height of my chest piece is 444mm. So if you are between the height range of 5'0" ~ 5'6", 309 in height sounds like it could be correct. :)
I watched your tutorial I understand getting the length and width from the longest and broadest points. My question is on depth, I'm starting on the gloves for my Iron Man Mark VI suit, my question is as for depth do I measure at the deepest point and use that as an input? That point being my lower palm/top front part of my wrist? Let me know when you can, I'm hoping to start this project this weekend, and from what I can tell it is going to be insane alot of parts Thanks and best regards,
I really like your video and it is very informative. Quick question, if I am making something out of foam, is there a setting I can use. I know that almost everything is made for paper and for fiber builds.
I have heard of this overall measure being used successfully, however I am far too anal to use this method. I do see how this would work, however (personally) I would rather measure each piece as I print and pep. thanks for the great comments!
Dude this vids have been a HUGE HELP! But just to clarify, The ONLY measurement you change when you are scaling is the longest. measurement? and leave ther others unchanged? another question. You said chest pieces are measured from shoulder to shoulder. Gauntlets from wrist to elbow. What about every other part of ur body? Such as your head,thigh, shin, etc?
Thanks alot for the 'Card Stock' Tip. I was wondering what sort of paper to use and thats a grand answer. I'm now planning to use super glue as the thing to hold the card stock together, I've seen these: Water Clear Casting Resin - 500g with Catalyst 5kg Low Cost General Purpose Resin and Catalyst But im unsure of what a good resin would be ...could you recommend any good resin? Thanks again very informative video.
love your work, when you said measure from shoulder to shoulder, in pepakura do you just put that measurement for width then the rest will fill in? ive got the itch for pep. thank you sir.
Ok so question, got the main part of the hands palms and knuckles printed they look great, I'm onto the fingers now... as for length do i measure from the tip of a finger just below my main hand knuckle? Or am I supposed to just measure tip to first knuckle joint as the Iron Man gloves are separated into 3 separate knuckle parts? I'm working on the Zabana gloves modified by darskside501st on therpf
If you have questions definitely come back to Dave's videos, they are very informative and helpful.
I did a iron man costume for me and a war machine for my son out of card board and some velcro dots. But I used your videos to help. It's amazing mate, cheers!
It's about time some one did this and in my opinion it had to be you. I have a good grasp of scaling and have/am helping many in this but now I don't have to try to explain in tells because I have a great video reference to link now. Thank you Dave for not only the useful link but also returning to us after such a long time.
Thanks Dave. You've encouraged me to give it another go with the Pep scaling. Got frustrated and gave up.
Your reaction to the part not fitting is devastating! Bravo. Great tutorials though. There's so much to learn from them
The guys on the 405th forum are reliable, they have good clean files on there. I have never had a problem in the years I've been getting files from there. Good luck.
I am going to attempt a female COG soldier from Gears of War. Your advice will definitely help; thank you for making this video.
This video was quite helpful. I appreciate you taking time to make these videos.
Thank you for this video, you just saved me a rather bad freak out when i couldnt fit my head though the base of my helm ive been making..
YOU ARE MY TRUE TEACHER :D All your videos have been so helpful. Thank you so much !!!
Hay thanks a lot for taking the time to help me out. All of your videos have been very helpful to me. I appreciate the help!
This is the only helpful video I've seen for how to do this!
You're quite welcome :)
Just so you know, you're my inspiration for making my costumes, although my work isn't a great standard and I take an extremely long time I always think about what you would say and how you would get round a problem. Stops me from giving up! From me a big thank you!!
"uncrazy"... That's a word now. Thanks for doing these videos. Great job, great props
Thanks! I figured it out, I wasn't measuring the right area, looks great now! :)
Of course it will!
Just remember to take your time, make it match. People tend to rush through and neglect the importance of the pepping stage. After all... what you pep out will be the shape and look of the final piece. If there are any mistakes or irregularities that you can see prior to hardening, this is the time to take care if it! As it is 10x harder to deal with once it's a solid.
Dave/Cereal.
thank you a billion times. i finally found someone that knows how to explain thank you man. also your videos are amazing.
Wow, this really helped me out so much! I have a hard time visualizing things like this, so all of your videos have helped me understand how to actually make things work, thank you!
Thanks for all this! I've been trying to make my own armor, and basically get into the hobby. You've been a huge help!
Thanks for your time Dave. Learnt a lot from your videos.
Dave, thanks for another great video. A few comments.
You stated to use the "longest measurement of the piece." In the case of the gauntlets its the width because the model has two gauntlets side by side. Thus, the height of the model is the dimension you're looking for. Since they're pretty close I'd say you got lucky in having your gauntlet fit. (Try pepping using height.)
Great video by the way, very easy to understand
you save my day man! thank you very much for the amaizing tutorial
Great video overall. The only thing I would say is the question about "Can I use regular printer paper?" I realize you work with resined paper and for that you can't, however if you are working with foam, then regular printer paper will work just fine. In that case you are strictly using the paper as a template for the foam, so it really doesn't need any structural strength. Otherwise, nothing to add. Thanks for taking the time to make your videos!
yes you can use regular paper for templates as long as it only for the templates. cardstock is more sturdy for templates, but if you are not wanting to pay for cardstock paper then regular printer paper can work as well. ONLY FOR FOAM!
I just want to say that you are an amazing person. I have watched multiple videos from you now and you make everything SO easy to understand! I have been trying to figure out Pepakura for a long time and I just kept assuming I was too dumb to understand any of it, but you have shown me that it's really simple once you have all of the information. I wish I could meet you in person so I could just give you a big hug. XD
That is a great tip, thank you!
I honestly have never before, used the "measure two points function" in pep designer and applied a real measure to it. I will most certainly be trying this out :)
This is great! Thanks for the information. I'm doing my first armor and this will save me a lot of panic and stress later :-)
Also, use the "measure two points" feature in Pepakura Designer. The gauntlets have two length rulers for just this purpose. Measure from your wrist to the inside of your forearm where the joint is. Convert to mm. Then use the measurement feature in Pepakura Designer to measure the length of the smaller (inside) ruler. Adjust the model scale until that measurement equals the measurement you took on your body. That's a guaranteed fit.
Thanks for this one Dave. I'm new to Pepakura and would have made some of these rookie mistakes so you have just saved me a lot of time :-) I look forward to the rest of your Halo build.
There is a utility in Pep designer called - Measure Two Points - This will allow you to choose 2 arbitrary points on a pep file and measure the span between them. (Say, the inside top of the helmet to the lowest point.) What you would do is measure the top of your head to the lowest point where the helmet would fit, convert to -mm- and then scale the piece until that measure is equal to the one you took from your body. (remember to compensate for padding/thickness!)
Hey Abulia,
You are absolutely correct!!! What I did when I pepped out my forearms is I separated the left and right pieces into individual files as I had some plans to modify one of the forearms in a specific way. I didn't dawn on me in the video until you brought it up about the two pieces being viewed as a whole,,, My mistake, I apologize!
That was a really great and thorough video.
You are honestly a huge help. Thank you so much.
Fantastic video, as a Pepakura starter it's helping me plan out my Witch King costume. :D
Great video, scaling is always something I had trouble with, learned some great tips! Thank you =)
I had to sand open the hole until it'd fit. Wearing gloves helps space that out. I had also used an under suit to bulk up the upper body. Which means that proportionally my hand would be smaller in comparison to arm thickness.
As for the shins, when you do them, see if you can slide your foot in with the shin backwards and then rotate it around to the correct side. Just trying to give you another option maybe.
The question you're asking is kind of a catch 22. Iron man (I will be doing a build soon!) is tricky, as with the actual costume (used in movie) the helmet is actually a 3 piece setup, allowing it to fit the head symmetrically and scale well. Unless you're ready to go the extra mile and cut the piece up, it will always have to be somewhat over-sized. As far as scaling goes, the above ^ video covers everything you need to know. The piece you are scaling doesn't matter it all crosses over!
Glad to hear it! A good start, guarantees a good finish!
Will defiantly check you're progress out!
When you scale pep for foam, remember the thickness of the foam plays a big factor in the piece. When pepping with paper that is 1/8 of a mm thick it goes unnoticed. But when using foam that is anywhere from 1/8" ~ 3/8" thick, you have to make sure that you will have enough room inside the piece once it's done. Measure the thickness of your foam, then double it! (eg. 1/4" foam doubled is 1/2") You have to add that extra 1/2 inch as well as your 1" to 1-1/2" breathing room.
thank you! saved me! now i understand it more.
well you just saved me from repeping my helm, Thank you for this video.
Awesome work dude ! You helped me so much with your videos :D
ty so much for making these videos i seriously love you for this!!!!!
Yeah, resins are one of those very foggy and grey areas, you can pay anywhere from $65 ~ $120 per gallon depending on brand/quality. For the application we're using the resins for (costume & props), it doesn't really matter. If you were building a car body or a boat hull.... that's a different story. You can use any brand you wish, the only choice you need to make is weather the resin type will be polyester or epoxy.
18:23 best and most important part of the video. Loop if required. Your welcome.
For either piece, you want to use the measurement which has the greatest span. Head = Bottom of chin to top of head (then add 1.5 inches for padding and grace room) Chest = Lowest rib (side) to top of shoulder (add same 1.5 inches) :)
thanks for the tips it's a great video
thats why you always add a centimeter or two to be safe, works for me every time
You are quite welcome! More to come soon!
Correct!
The biggest differences are:
- Save your work
- Exporting features
- Possibly measure 2 points feature (not too sure on that one thought as I use the designer version)
Correct!
However, for reference I have never had a feed issue with 110 lb paper in any printer, there should be no issues with that. Unless you are using a laser printer that is > 8 years old.
Finally, some models have a scale of "82" in them, representing the height of the Master Chief in inches. If your model has a scale of "82" then you can, typically, take your height in inches, add 1-2 for padding, and adjust the scale to your height. For example, I am 5'9" and adjusting to from "82" to "71" gets me a piece that fits pretty close. Note, this trick doesn't work on all models, only those that have a default scale of "82."
Finally, pep low def models for testing purposes.
Thats a great idea! I am going to get right on making that easter bunny pep!
how wold you measure and scale for a helmet?
First off I'd like to say that your videos are truly the best. I began watching one and ended up watching them all. Now I'm hyped up and ready to go. I have tried making my own Pep helmet but the sizing was WAY off. You may have already answered this and I am sorry if you have but what is the best way to scale the helmet? I just don't want to Print, cut, and glue all just to discover that my helmet is too big or small. Thanks and please keep the videos coming!
First off, I just want to say thank you for taking the time to make a tutorial like this, it's helped me understand a lot as well as others I'm sure. I think I only have one question. I'm working on a Mark IV Ironman build, and it's been pretty frustrating so far. Anyways, should I be adding an inch and a half to two inches to everything I measure on myself?
What I would do is print out one finger. Move all of the pieces that make 1 finger onto 1 sheet and print them out. Assemble it and put it on. That's the best way to go about it, everyone's fingers from joint to joint are different lengths and thicknesses. Because of the small spaces between each joint and that there is little room for error, this is how I would approach it.
You can set the scale by selecting the menu; [2DPatternWindow]-[Change the Scale of Development]-[Specify the Scale]. Note that this feature is only available on Pepakura Designer.
Pepakura Viewer does not have this feature.
(If you want to scale with Pepakura Viewer, please try to do that by changing printer setting.) HERE HOPE THIS HELPS FROM PEPAKURA WEBSITE!
Welcome back.
Is this what you do for work? If you do I can see why, you're attention to detail an descriptions are great. You're videos are always great and informative. You have a website yet?
Great job man, been following your videos for a while, just gotta say miss watching them.. when you gonna finish your armor tutorial? I wanna see how you finish up, cheers
thanks the measure , scaling info was great thanks
Some parts are tricky. The biggest problem is that on one person is going to "scale perfectly" I would be measuring and scaling to match the most important dimension of the piece (the palm and length and width) that distance is more important than the depth. The depth will most likely have to be changed on the fly. Meaning increased or decreased in depth once the piece is built. chances are if you scale by depth, the other 2 dimensions will not fit. Then you'll have a mess!
More specifically 110 lb card stock, unless your printer will not feed it correctly, then 65 lb. The stronger (thicker) the paper, the better, because when you get to the fiberglass resin stage, it will resist bowing better.
You are quite welcome everyone!
Good video - really like the picture-in-picture effect, but doesn't work so well when you're pointing and referring to items on the monitor but is covered up by the inset.
Great video!
It is a snip from a track on the halo 3 ost. It will have to do until I decide on something more permanent. :)
I would like to know how to scale mask for my son and my fat head using pepakura 3...your bids are so helpful to beginners like me.
When changing the scale factor of length or width, the other measurement will adjust itself accordingly and automatically.
please help how to adjust the size of the helmet???
The measurement that I would begin with would be the longest. (top of the head, and down to the lowest part of the helmet) to that measurement I would add an 1-1/4", No more. This extra is only to compensate for the thickness of the piece as well as any padding you put on the inside. As far as re-attaching the 3 pieces together, being that the jaw piece is relatively light and small, I would use Velcro strips. Same deal for the face plate as I am assuming you would like it to be removable.
in halo 4 it was shown that the fore arm piece splits in to 4 pieces. like panels.
Dude I'm so glad I stumbled among your channel, specially this video since I will be making a Ironman Mark VII suit and had lots of questions about scaling and sizing. Thanks a lot for the tips man! One question though do you know if a regular laser printer and the silhouette Cameo would take 120 lb paper stock?
lol I just want to say, before I knew anything about pepakura, I did not know of card stock or glues. I created Master Chief's helmet, boots, shoulder pads, and chest piece... but only out of printer paper and scotch tape XD
sorry cereal kill3r, i broke all your rules...
very helpfull mate thanks alot for this vid
It has been a while. Very nice video editing and awesome tutorial. Do you have any experience with Foam armors. I've never done one, but I assume it's roughly the same thing.
The "viewer" does exactly that. "View".
You cannot scale, measure or alter the files in any way using Pep Viewer. What you will need is Pepakura Designer which is available for download at the tamasoft website. See my video "What is Pepakura" for more detailed instructions/information
That would depend on the piece in question. What model are you pepping? Which component specifically? What is you're scale (in mm)? If it is a larger piece (piece of a torso or thigh) they can get quite large. I'd need more info.
I appreciate the depth and detail. I seem to be having an unusual situation. Regardless what i have tried I simply don't have nor can i find a way to add PDF to the drop print menu. I have my personal printers showing with no problems.. It seems to allow saving as most anything and everything else associated as a valid file format.
I actually updated my PDF today for that matter that issues did nothing to change my print functions in my licensed version of Pepakura 3. I have even looked at the free viewer and the High Definition ver. none of the 3 versions of Pepakura have any option i can find to allow PDF printing.. Quite puzzled any ideas as to where my issue is. I'm Using Windows 7 if that helps.
Thank you.
Do people like me usually have to adhere the pieces to the underarmour in some way? to prevent slipping and rotating. The forearm for instance, How do you keep it from sliding down or turning around when you don't have enough meat underneath it to fill it out? In other words, would padding it suffice or would it require some sort of Velcro under every piece to keep it from moving.
You are quite welcome!
Being that I have no idea of your overall height, I can't really say right or wrong. But to put things into perspective, I'm 6' tall and have a very tall upper body. The Height of my chest piece is 444mm. So if you are between the height range of 5'0" ~ 5'6", 309 in height sounds like it could be correct. :)
Thanks alot for the Insight.
I watched your tutorial I understand getting the length and width from the longest and broadest points. My question is on depth, I'm starting on the gloves for my Iron Man Mark VI suit, my question is as for depth do I measure at the deepest point and use that as an input? That point being my lower palm/top front part of my wrist? Let me know when you can, I'm hoping to start this project this weekend, and from what I can tell it is going to be insane alot of parts
Thanks and best regards,
Happy to help.
I really like your video and it is very informative. Quick question, if I am making something out of foam, is there a setting I can use. I know that almost everything is made for paper and for fiber builds.
I have heard of this overall measure being used successfully, however I am far too anal to use this method. I do see how this would work, however (personally) I would rather measure each piece as I print and pep.
thanks for the great comments!
Dude this vids have been a HUGE HELP!
But just to clarify, The ONLY measurement you change when you are scaling is the longest. measurement? and leave ther others unchanged?
another question.
You said chest pieces are measured from shoulder to shoulder. Gauntlets from wrist to elbow.
What about every other part of ur body? Such as your head,thigh, shin, etc?
the other measurements will change automatically, along with the longest measurement changing.
The whole point of the p.i.p. is to show more closely what I am referencing/referring to on the computer monitor. :)
Really helpful!
Thanks alot for the 'Card Stock' Tip.
I was wondering what sort of paper to use and thats a grand answer.
I'm now planning to use super glue as the thing to hold the card stock together,
I've seen these:
Water Clear Casting Resin - 500g with Catalyst
5kg Low Cost General Purpose Resin and Catalyst
But im unsure of what a good resin would be ...could you recommend any good resin?
Thanks again very informative video.
All the files can be found on the 405th.com or the Halo wiki page.
Cheers for the vid. helps a lot :)
should the depth size of the forearm be scaled from the largest girth? like the side closer to my elbow, being the biggest part of my forearm.
no problem, glad to help.
love your work, when you said measure from shoulder to shoulder, in pepakura do you just put that measurement for width then the rest will fill in? ive got the itch for pep. thank you sir.
thanks for the video! I know own that you mentioned clips and velcro for removable pieces...what do you think of magnets?
Ok so question, got the main part of the hands palms and knuckles printed they look great, I'm onto the fingers now... as for length do i measure from the tip of a finger just below my main hand knuckle? Or am I supposed to just measure tip to first knuckle joint as the Iron Man gloves are separated into 3 separate knuckle parts? I'm working on the Zabana gloves modified by darskside501st on therpf
This guy is my fucking hero
I would like to know how to scale the shoulder attachments that you get in halo reach and also how they would attach to the upper arm armour?