My guess is vacuum developed in the pipe after the air filter and caused the air filter seal to deform. Then, maybe it sucked up a pine needle or something not allowing the plate to close fully temporarily. My vote is to replace that air filter with OEM quality conventional.
I would go back to the Toyota stock filter. K&N filters do let more air in for more HP. But they do not filter the intake air as well as stock. That is the trade off. Plus the maintenance of a K&N filter is more aggravation than just popping in a fresh stock air filter.
I did a valve job on a truck with the same engine. Burnt exhaust valve. Just one. Today, replacing leaky brake booster 99 Camry 4 cyl. 225,000 on the clock. Customer complaint was “I have to plan my stops wisely.”
Oh, gosh... what do you think of this scenario; Filter got so clogged that the excessive vacuum dislocated that seal, a bunch of debris and dirt got sucked in and temporary got the throttle jammed open a bit, the driver floored it after a restart, dirt got dislogedged (chewed up and spit out by the engine) but the now freed up plate is working just fine. Lesson: if you depend on your vehicle, remove all aftermarket crap! Even the "premium" aftermarket part's still inferior to reputable OEM which often undergoes fail-safe testing (in contrary to ANY aftermarket dito). Hope this one gets the point and installs the OEM-solution and keeps with the serviceintervall which makes it dependable.
Great theory. That's definitely a solid possibility. And when the gasket got sucked in at the bottom, it allowed a group of pine needles to join the party and they got stuck in the throttle butterfly.
WOW! That air filter was hammered!! I've seen some dirty ones but it looks more like some cabin air filters I've pulled out that people never knew they had. Yikes! I think I'd just stick to changing with an OEM style filter.
I have been a automotive technician for 20 years and I have come to the conclusion that 99% of people put those K&N filters in their vehicles and think they never need to check or clean them again. They are a waste of money if you ask me, but I've made a lot of money replacing contaminated MAF sensors over the years because of them!
One of your followers have a good point on K&N air filter, if that is one, they need to be cleaned and oiled on a regular bases. Even if they say they last thousands of miles but you must read the "take care / maintenance" on them.. That a lot of people don't read.... lol
O no!!!! Get ride of it while it still running. The dirt/dust will act like sand paper in the piston cylinders and are probably glazed now. Your customer will probably will see smoke coming out of the tail pipe as he/she have blow-by very soon. Or/ and end up burning a lot of oil... Lv your shows, keep up the great videos Ivin!!!!!
If I were the owner of that truck I'd be embarrassed at the condition of that air filter. Even though those are reusable, I'd throw that one away and get a new one.
You scare me starting those spark plugs with the dewalt, i've seen things go south quick using that method.I am not trying to tell you what to do, but it only takes one.
Yeah, I always cringe seeing guys start the spark plugs with a power tool. 😱 I always start them with a piece of 3/8 hose. Thexton #492 is a commercially available spark plug starter kit (includes 2 lengths/pcs) for those so inclined to purchase "tool."
I would never be brave enough to install a spark plug into an aluminum head with a power tool. I guess if you're very careful and perfectly straight it works but I'd be scared I'd cross thread it.
Ivan, 260k out of anything and I'm not complaining one bit. I personally like a regular OEM filter. I had a Kendra and Natalie type and I would just forget to clean it. I order paper ones from rock auto pretty cheap. I change them every other oil change. Great maintenance video. Thanls
Timing belts on these engines are pretty bulletproof, usually a frozen idler pulley or a shot water pump gets them. A broken timing belt is a problem if you’re 350 miles from home
Project Farm did a comparison of "Which car air filter is best" K&N did a little better breathing on the track but, it lets too much dirt threw for daily driving.
I put 260,000 miles on a 1991 Pathfinder with a K&N air filter before the frame broke. I cleaned the filter ever 15,000 miles. I never got a filter that dirty even when I drove to Alaska. That filter needs a cleaner kit. Takes about two hours if you have a fan to dry the filter. My filter never looked like that. The cleaner fluid needs to be applied and rinsed after 20 minutes. I would do the cleaner twice then dry and apply the oil(it's a spray). I bet his mileage goes up by 30%. With that dirty filter I bet the engine was running rich. Great video Ivan. Stay well.
Even so, all the tests that I have read about, prove that the K&N filter does not filter as well as the regular paper filter. If you want that slight hp increase that may or may not be there and you stay on pavement, perhaps you should install a K&N. I personally have never used one and never will.
@@williamwhite9767 What you do personally is not my concern. The HP increase was not my concern the increase in mileage was. The engine at the time of recycling was the only thing that was as strong as the day I bought it. After driving vehicles over 1,000,000 miles I personally will continue to buy them.
@@IBenZik I'm not concerned about what you do either. But, everyone needs to be aware that if a K&N air filter is used, their engine will ingest dirt that a regular filter would filter out.
He just shortened the life of that motor by 200,000 miles injesting filth to the intake, I don’t care how good a car is, you still need to do maintenance.
@KenLyns: Tsk, tsk... Of course percussive maintenance and general technical reasoning prolongs the service life of absolutely anything (unless you're TV-shopping all your garbage from US TV commercials). You'd be surprised how much a 5 min care each month would do for a mechanical or electronic item. My car is 35+ yr, daily driver, I live by the atlantic ocean, our roads get *excessively* salted every winter, our cars must pass rigours inspection periodically, I have no particular interest in any car (especially my own) apart from it not breaking down... And the bugget never evers dies, so no excuse buying something remotely more modern.
Diminishing returns. Even with yearly FF/Krown, that body/frame/axle would be rusty after 16 years in the northeast. No point in babying the engine to go longer. TV-shopped garbage (aka Chryslers) get rusted after 8 years in the same environment.
They do what they advertise - flow more air. The downside of that is, they allow more crap past them. If horsepower is all that matters, they're the perfect filter. If engine longevity is your goal, steer clear.
Nice one Ivan. Interesting to watch your troubleshooting thought process evolve in time. Going to miss your Staten island Express videos. Good to see Keith move upward in his career. Not a fan of using power tools to install spark plugs. Be safe out there!!!!
Those k & n filters do not do a good job at filtering fine pariculates. He will have advanced engine wear from using it. Given his offroading, You should should advise him to urgently replace the k & n with a stock paper filter and change it routinely.
I was just thinking, intermittent throttle issues? Start from the first thing in the chain, the air filter, then the hose-clamps, then the throttle-plate itself. If plate all carboned up, methylated spirits is a good cleaning agent. If still issues then go into full diag mode. Then you opened up the filter housing and all was revealed. Dusty roads etc what you expect! I check my airways (the cars) once a year and make sure that air filter is clean and seals. And I agree Toyota is quality.
Thank you for sharing your work, you help me understand the logic and diagnoses for both electrical/mechanical systems and follow through with their subsequent repairs.
My 2007 Toyota sienna has a 3.5 L V6 in it 169000 miles Seems to be a very strong engine only replaced the water pump , which I guess is a weak point on those The shaft looks like it’s a pretty small diameter, Great video Ivan, Always a learning experience With your videos
I have the same fantastic model. I would have cleaned the mass air flow sensor for sure and installed the correct duel ground Denso or NGK plugs as specified by Toyota. Toyota has even placed a sticker on the timing belt cover the importance of the special plugs.
...but did the owner clean or replace the Air Filter? Also, I believe the seal on the bottom of the filter got pulled out of position because of lack of AirFlow thru the dirty filter. This created a vacuum, and the engine needed air from somewhere. The seal was the first to move. It also may have started crushing some of the plastic conduit attached to the Throttle body as well. LACK OF MAINTENANCE! Not good.
Ivan, Great video - thank you. In this case I have to agree with those that feel that air filter should have been tossed - it was too far gone. And I also winced when I see you use that impact driver to not only remove but also install the spark plugs with those fine threads in an aluminum head. God bless Paul (in MA)
probably put some hosed air back through the air filter in an effort to remove more dirt. maybe used a can of seafoam cleaner, but great job Ivan. thx for the vid.
Nice find there! Good that the code lead you in a general direction - usually they don't! I've seen this happen on dirt bikes- filter gets neglected, and pieces of grit (doesn't take much) take up the clearance between the throttle butterfly or slide, and jams the thing wide open. A fun ride on a 2-stroke, LOL! Alot of the time they won't shut off by yanking the spark plug cap, either! Have to get brave and hold both brakes and slowly let the clutch out to kill it. 😂 Been a couple decades since I've seen that! Good to know about these Toyotas - I'll keep that in the back of my brain. General quality seemed to head downward after '96. That's probably one of the last good vehicles made of ANY brand. I had a K&N filter in my Silverado for the first 50k miles. That could be why it started burning oil at 50k! It's definitely a ring issue, since it only burns alot of oil if I push it too hard on hills while towing. If I keep the cruise control off, and don't let it scream at 4,500 on every hill, the oil consumption goes back down to a reasonable level.
I had one like this some years ago with the standard air filter in a 7.3 IDI. The customer thought it needed a new injection pump, but clearing the air filter solved the issue I have no problem with these filters, and special cleaner and oil is not necessary. Any standard window cleaner works fine, and regular 30wt can be used in place of K&N products. Dump it in a bucket with some windex, wash it out with a hose, dry the element, spray some oil on it and it's good to go. Oh, one off road recovery will more than pay for a timing belt replacement, so, do the math.
K&N air filter only works best to clean environment but there is dangers of using a K&N filter on your vehicle the K&N air filter does not protect you from fine particles and drit .getting into your engine if you noticed that you will have multiple failures + your mass airflow sensor will go out of control that would be the first thing you will have problems with! dirt and fine particles will get through the filter and destroy your turbo and your engine if you can see sunlight through your filter than your filter is garbage ? if you going on long trips with your vehicle like New York to Florida do not use a K&N air filter!!!!!!
@Lost 1N Space Aquatics: Perfect summary but it falls a bit in summing: In clean environments, *no* filter works best actually! And in environments a great filter solution *is* needed, a K&N-one causes problems...
Owner: wants problem fixed so the truck is reliable as possible and won't break down in the middle of nowhere Also owner: still has original timing belt with over 260k miles
K & N filters are ok for on road use. They suck for dirty off-road use. The filter oil holds on to dirt and debris that should fall off the filter and accumulate in the box. This eventually reduces efficiency over time since most people will not clean and oil the filter every time they go and get it dirty.
Maybe I missed something, but I certainly would have replaced the air filter as part of the tune-up along with the plugs and fluids you were to perform. Maybe you did, idk. If not, you contact the customer with a revised estimate to include a stock replacement air filter. Additional part won't break the bank and well spent, especially in this particular case.
24:50 the brown deposit on the threads is combustion deposits when very fine leak develops between the plug gasket and it's seat around the threads (dirt lodged between the plug gasket and head)
In addition to checking if the throttle plate closes , I check the throttle shaft bushings . Just like carburetors in the old days , those shaft bushings can wear out . It may not be often , but it will send you running for a problem . As well as a loose throttle body .
I have a 1999 Tacoma 3400. I placed a K&N air filter on it and had to clean the Mass air flow sensor on it because oil from the filter covered it and slowly pick up dirt and it gave an incorrect reading. I went back to a paper air cleaner and it has run fine ever since.
I trashed my Kinder and Natalie air filter years ago. Project Farm did some air filter testing. The kinder and Natalie air filters pass to much dirt. I had to remove my intake manifold and actually pressure washed it. Never seen so much dirt get washed out. I now run OEm type filters only.
That air filter looks like one of my lawn mower air filters after not cleaning it for 5 years LOL but my engine always ran lean (for 15 years) so it ran worse when I cleaned it. After a rebuild of the carb it ran good with a clean filter. Google says: . . . use Super Clean to clean the K&N filter and 30W oil can be used. You can use compressed air before washing as long as you don't get to close to the filter with it. Use a garden hose but not to hard. This engine might have eaten a chunk of dirt or a pine needle that set the code but then swallowed the debris and just burned up.
those filters are designed to be cleaned and reused,they do sell kn filter cleaner and oil but just hot soapy water works,im sure you could substitute oil for the filter using mineral oil/veg oil or somthing that wont evaporate in time.those filters are high flow so oil is very important as thats what catches the micro particles if you ever do clean one
yup bucket of super hot water and sunlight clothes detergent for cleaning, and a spray bottle set on mist with atf watered down with 99% isp alcohol, been doing this for years even on my foam filters
Yep filthy, no wonder it was acting up. I'm supprised all that dust didn't ruin the butterfly assembly. The owner should bring it to you more often for other stuff that needs checking. Shame that people get something good and reliable, then ignore it untill it stops :-(
Those hybrid throttle body were what the used just before drive by wire system My nieces Suzuki Verona has the same sistem. The computer ajust the plate angle via step motor to keep control of the idle and eliminate the need of IAC valve. In addition eliminates the need of external motor to do the cruise control.
Use denso K16tR11 dual ground standard plugs or NGKBKR5ekb-11 as suggested on the lil picture on the timing belt cover, they will last longer. Ditch the K&N it doesn’t fit the air box well, poorly made and just dirties up the entire system with oil and ruins MAF’s.
Yota power!! Haha, those motors are bulletproof!!! Reliable and strong lil uns... lol. I can't unsee this clip when you dewalt it in the spark plug hole. Damn! Makes me cringe lol. You're lucky it didn't go batshit, lol. Nice video! When i got my blazer at 223k miles. Throttle body got so carboned up. Cleaned the hell out of it. It runs like champ. Now it's 240k with original motor and trans. Lol. So anyway. Great job cleaning up the throttle body! Many thumbs up
Ivan good video and we can always count on the bonus footage. I see the STATAN ISLAND EXPRESS traded one of its team members to North Carolina. You going to keep it going? Don’t forget to send an Email to Rocco to wish him a Happy Birthdays. Hope all is well.❤️ Artie
Again lack of maintenance. I clen those K&N filters in turpentine and blow them dry. New NGK sparkplugs have a special coating so just check the gap and mount them.
Watching this makes me miss my old Tacoma 😔 310,000 miles when the rust took her down. Excellent job by the way! I always enjoy your videos, I've learned so much from watching both you and Eric O.
I agree with some of the other commenters. The aftermarket filter letting debris in probably jammed up the throttle plate. The owner probably hasn't done it much good and should go back to an OEM filter. I think it may cause other issues down the line. God i love rusty old Toyotas. 😎
Great video Ivan. At 16:43 you noted that the cam belt may not have been replaced. As the customer does not want to get stranded out in the back blocks, even thought a broken belt will not cause major motor damage, it will cause the customer some stranded problems if it occurs in the field. Did you ask the customer if he the belt has been replaced and when? 260,000 miles and no belt change is asking for trouble. The cause of the deformation of the bottom of the seal on the air "cleaner" could have been caused by increased air pressure and intake vacuum differential with the filter blocked.
The APP sensor is mounted there because it saved them a bunch of time and money NOT tooling a new pedal assembly. Still very strange. I swear, if all manufacturers put dielectric grease on the inside of the COP boot, there would be a lot less COP/plug problems !
The owner probably only opens the hood just long enough to run wires to those goofy bumper lights. Maintenance?,... it has gas! Good Video Ivan. Thank You for sharing.
Probably vacuum from clogged filter made that gap inside down there...also maybe was good enough to measure MAP sensor before dismounting filter itself.
K&N filters and ones alike are meant for pavement Princess vehicles. If you look at project farms video comparing air filters, K&N was 100 times worse at filtering dust, versus a paper filter.
I had a 1987 4x4 with a 22r. The last year of the carborated trucks. I would have bought another but like you said they are not that good of trucks any more. Much of that is due I think to quality control and Chinesium steel.
Had similar problem with my 2000 tundra 4.7 going into limp mode over throttle body issue. Only on very cold days, if I were to do a quick throttle response after first starting to drive it cold, it would throw a engine light and kick into limp mode. It is a heated throttle body, and when it's real cold out that motor that moves the throttle plate can lag compaired to what the ecm reads the throttle position to be at. So on very cold days I make sure I fully heat my truck up before driving. Knock on wood it's been 6 years trouble free since it's happened.
I believe Hammerjockey is right also maybe before it sucked the gasket not being able to get enough air caused the problem. Getting a new frame? Boy Ford would have just bought it back.
Its possible a piece of debris got passed that filter just in time to stop the plate from completely closing? After causing that code the computer disabled the throttle control system. That filter was definitely the worst I seen too🤔
Ask indicated by others K&N filters are a marketing hype (to the tune of $40). More than one RUclipsr has tested them and the results are in. The K&N filters will let in a little more air (CFM). Along with more dirt and "filter oil". The results are measurable. You be the judge. At best with a modern engine you might get a pony or two for a few months. You then spend the "rest of your days" tracking down oil coated MAF sensors, extra wear in the engine, .... The Project Farm youtube channel had a good review of air filters.
These aftermarket filters do let through more particulates (especially if as poorly maintained as in this truck), so I wouldn't really recommend them for off-road use. Let's continue watching and see what horrors reveal themselves as you dig deeper. Edit: and the idle jumps high as the engine breathes easier... to be expected. That should sort itself out.
I can’t be bothered to clean oil a kn filter I just install a paper 🧻 filter every 4 oil changes. That plug was pretty worn and engine was running smooth it must be a Toyota 👍
I'm surprised you were not hearing the intake valve screaming???? Specially it started to sing while you were moving it? I'm sure it on it way out as well..... Ugggg
Yikes! Not the environment where you want an air filter not sealed! At least it's just a work truck, and a classic yota that can deal with it.... My 01 3.4 tundra is about to hit 280k and runs / sounds great. I just can't get rid of it, even though it's rusty as heck!
That particular engine type was vulnerable to oil sludge build up on the heads due to a tendency to run hot. Frequent oil changes using the right type of oil is critical. The sludge runs down the engine block into the oil pan plugging the oil pickup and causing the engine to throw a rod due to oil starvation. It's a well known well documented issue.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics No. I'm talking about the 3.4 V6 which had the problem during that era (late 90s early 2000s). I had one with the problem. I looked it up and it was a common problem. They may have fixed it since then. I can't say. It's the very same engine in the truck in the video. There were a lot of battles with Toyota and owners at the time over this engine because they didn't want to honor the warranty and fix them.. Toyota was claiming that people should have had dealership oil changes and that owners were NOT changing the oil often enough and or using the correct oil in order to 'duck out' of having to replace engines.. 3.4 litre V6
@@fredflintstone8048 oh wow I never heard of that problem! Must have been really poor maintenance. Every 3.4 that I have worked on doesn't burn any oil and the oil is never very dark on the dipstick...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I may have not been clear.. I don't know how much about the problem is still floating around the web. That was 15-20 years ago and it was a big problem. Hundreds of customers having to replace or rebuiding engines. Toyota took a real hit in it's reputation at the time in the truck market because as we know, Toyota up until that time was known and assumed to be a quality truck. Toyota did not advertise this problem at the time, in fact they tried to cover it up and blame the customers. The problem was not that the engine burned oil. I never ran across 3.4s that burned oil either. The problem was the design of the coolant jacket in the heads. The top of the heads inside the crankcase would run very hot cooking the oil on top of the head creating a sludge that would run down inside the block over time plugging the oil pickup. The solution was to run good quality synthetic oils and change oil often. If people used synthetic blends, or non synthetics they were very prone to this problem.
Yep. Got an 03 and bastard did same shit.. randomly the throttle has no response.. replaced tps. Still broke. Tested all wiring and back to the ecu. No signal at ecu.. replaced ecu…. Fixed the issue.. pos.. for a month i just unplugged the tps and accel pos sensor along with the motor in the tb and rigged it up to use the cable only.. was the only time in that motors life where it actually went to 100% throttle.. lol. Otherwise it cuts at 70%..
Are you have to do is put it in a small flat pail pan dish washing soap for a little while and let it soak and then rinse it with hot water do that several times and then let it dry out.
I would have cleaned the intake temp sensor and MAF sensor also I seen ford had a call back on there throttle bodys kept going limp in mode n also needed reflash after throttle body cleaning
If it ain't broke , don't fix it ? What about maintenance ? If those plugs are original , that's INSANE ! If the gaps are blown open and worn away , how much gas did you save ? And if they stressed the coils and took one out ? On certain engines , Ford's , etc. , they get Frozen in the head and break off . That air filter was also a gas waster . Would you drive that across country ?
My guess is vacuum developed in the pipe after the air filter and caused the air filter seal to deform. Then, maybe it sucked up a pine needle or something not allowing the plate to close fully temporarily. My vote is to replace that air filter with OEM quality conventional.
seems a good plan and change it in one to two week intervals, from the sounds of their driving and usage.
@@anonymic79 ya simple to clean a filter and throttle plate
I would go back to the Toyota stock filter. K&N filters do let more air in for more HP. But they do not filter the intake air as well as stock. That is the trade off. Plus the maintenance of a K&N filter is more aggravation than just popping in a fresh stock air filter.
@@MegaGeorge1948 ya and it's not like it's a 4 banger it's a V6 so theres plenty of power
I think he should reroute the intake ducting and air filter box to inside the cab right next to the driver's head.
I did a valve job on a truck with the same engine. Burnt exhaust valve. Just one. Today, replacing leaky brake booster 99 Camry 4 cyl. 225,000 on the clock. Customer complaint was “I have to plan my stops wisely.”
lol at {Customer complaint was “I have to plan my stops wisely.”}
Oh, gosh... what do you think of this scenario; Filter got so clogged that the excessive vacuum dislocated that seal, a bunch of debris and dirt got sucked in and temporary got the throttle jammed open a bit, the driver floored it after a restart, dirt got dislogedged (chewed up and spit out by the engine) but the now freed up plate is working just fine.
Lesson: if you depend on your vehicle, remove all aftermarket crap! Even the "premium" aftermarket part's still inferior to reputable OEM which often undergoes fail-safe testing (in contrary to ANY aftermarket dito). Hope this one gets the point and installs the OEM-solution and keeps with the serviceintervall which makes it dependable.
I just watched the video and I was thinking the same thing, a small twig or similar.
it was installed properly, the filter got so clogged that the gasket sucked in
Great theory. That's definitely a solid possibility. And when the gasket got sucked in at the bottom, it allowed a group of pine needles to join the party and they got stuck in the throttle butterfly.
WOW! That air filter was hammered!! I've seen some dirty ones but it looks more like some cabin air filters I've pulled out that people never knew they had. Yikes! I think I'd just stick to changing with an OEM style filter.
The cabin air filter in my sisters Corolla was like that. Hadn't been changed in 7 years/50,000 miles. It was gross.
Nice tune up! I was waiting for a MAF cleaning thou
I have been a automotive technician for 20 years and I have come to the conclusion that 99% of people put those K&N filters in their vehicles and think they never need to check or clean them again.
They are a waste of money if you ask me, but I've made a lot of money replacing contaminated MAF sensors over the years because of them!
One of your followers have a good point on K&N air filter, if that is one, they need to be cleaned and oiled on a regular bases. Even if they say they last thousands of miles but you must read the "take care / maintenance" on them.. That a lot of people don't read.... lol
O no!!!! Get ride of it while it still running. The dirt/dust will act like sand paper in the piston cylinders and are probably glazed now. Your customer will probably will see smoke coming out of the tail pipe as he/she have blow-by very soon. Or/ and end up burning a lot of oil... Lv your shows, keep up the great videos Ivin!!!!!
It's a Toyota 3400 V6...no oil burning even with 500k miles!
Toss that POS aftermarket filter and buy a standard paper filter.
K&N is only good for racing.
@@jackhandyy check out ruclips.net/video/sJ3L-E-ufYo/видео.html
If I were the owner of that truck I'd be embarrassed at the condition of that air filter. Even though those are reusable, I'd throw that one away and get a new one.
You scare me starting those spark plugs with the dewalt, i've seen things go south quick using that method.I am not trying to tell you what to do, but it only takes one.
Frank McDonough Yes I could never get away with that, even taking them out, I’m afraid I’ll rip the threads out of head
I like to use socket and turn with my fingers..less chance for cross threading.
He does stuff like that spur viewer comments/participation.
I like putting the plug in the end of a shotgun slug barrel. The rifling in the barrel will allow the plug to spin as it goes in.
Yeah, I always cringe seeing guys start the spark plugs with a power tool. 😱
I always start them with a piece of 3/8 hose. Thexton #492 is a commercially available spark plug starter kit (includes 2 lengths/pcs) for those so inclined to purchase "tool."
I would never be brave enough to install a spark plug into an aluminum head with a power tool. I guess if you're very careful and perfectly straight it works but I'd be scared I'd cross thread it.
I agree, I cringed when I saw that !
all just very low speed when feel prefect then speed up dont hammer impact. I been doing for 30 years
YASSSSS! BONUS FOOTAGE! It's like going backstage after the gig.
Ivan, 260k out of anything and I'm not complaining one bit. I personally like a regular OEM filter. I had a Kendra and Natalie type and I would just forget to clean it. I order paper ones from rock auto pretty cheap. I change them every other oil change. Great maintenance video. Thanls
Timing belts on these engines are pretty bulletproof, usually a frozen idler pulley or a shot water pump gets them. A broken timing belt is a problem if you’re 350 miles from home
Project Farm did a comparison of "Which car air filter is best" K&N did a little better breathing on the track but, it lets too much dirt threw for daily driving.
I put 260,000 miles on a 1991 Pathfinder with a K&N air filter before the frame broke. I cleaned the filter ever 15,000 miles. I never got a filter that dirty even when I drove to Alaska. That filter needs a cleaner kit. Takes about two hours if you have a fan to dry the filter. My filter never looked like that. The cleaner fluid needs to be applied and rinsed after 20 minutes. I would do the cleaner twice then dry and apply the oil(it's a spray). I bet his mileage goes up by 30%. With that dirty filter I bet the engine was running rich.
Great video Ivan. Stay well.
Even so, all the tests that I have read about, prove that the K&N filter does not filter as well as the regular paper filter. If you want that slight hp increase that may or may not be there and you stay on pavement, perhaps you should install a K&N. I personally have never used one and never will.
@@williamwhite9767 What you do personally is not my concern. The HP increase was not my concern the increase in mileage was. The engine at the time of recycling was the only thing that was as strong as the day I bought it. After driving vehicles over 1,000,000 miles I personally will continue to buy them.
@@IBenZik I'm not concerned about what you do either. But, everyone needs to be aware that if a K&N air filter is used, their engine will ingest dirt that a regular filter would filter out.
@@williamwhite9767 Well good for you. I state my experience and you belittle my maintenance. Do you work for Fram?
@@IBenZik And you said you didn't care.
He just shortened the life of that motor by 200,000 miles injesting filth to the intake, I don’t care how good a car is, you still need to do maintenance.
firebir11 *ingesting.
The 16-year old truck is on borrowed time in the northeast. On its 2nd frame already. Imagine what the other components are like.
@KenLyns: Tsk, tsk... Of course percussive maintenance and general technical reasoning prolongs the service life of absolutely anything (unless you're TV-shopping all your garbage from US TV commercials). You'd be surprised how much a 5 min care each month would do for a mechanical or electronic item. My car is 35+ yr, daily driver, I live by the atlantic ocean, our roads get *excessively* salted every winter, our cars must pass rigours inspection periodically, I have no particular interest in any car (especially my own) apart from it not breaking down...
And the bugget never evers dies, so no excuse buying something remotely more modern.
Diminishing returns. Even with yearly FF/Krown, that body/frame/axle would be rusty after 16 years in the northeast. No point in babying the engine to go longer. TV-shopped garbage (aka Chryslers) get rusted after 8 years in the same environment.
@@bigcheese781 "percussive" maintenance is how the frame failed inspection 😂 Holes appeared when the hammer struck.
Amazing how readily people will believe any ridiculous claim made by some after-market manufacturer. Toss that crappy filter and put in an oem filter.
They do what they advertise - flow more air. The downside of that is, they allow more crap past them. If horsepower is all that matters, they're the perfect filter. If engine longevity is your goal, steer clear.
Ya the black box will give you cold air and it's more convenient just blow it out and away you go
Nought wrong with the filters, but this isn’t the right filter for the job here!
@@davyarthurs no it isn't you want a filter that catches as much as possible that k&n isn't made for off roading
Neil Murphy that’s what I said. K&N are no good for off roading.
Nice one Ivan. Interesting to watch your troubleshooting thought process evolve in time. Going to miss your Staten island Express videos. Good to see Keith move upward in his career. Not a fan of using power tools to install spark plugs. Be safe out there!!!!
Those k & n filters do not do a good job at filtering fine pariculates. He will have advanced engine wear from using it. Given his offroading, You should should advise him to urgently replace the k & n with a stock paper filter and change it routinely.
I was just thinking, intermittent throttle issues? Start from the first thing in the chain, the air filter, then the hose-clamps, then the throttle-plate itself.
If plate all carboned up, methylated spirits is a good cleaning agent.
If still issues then go into full diag mode. Then you opened up the filter housing and all was revealed. Dusty roads etc what you expect!
I check my airways (the cars) once a year and make sure that air filter is clean and seals. And I agree Toyota is quality.
Thank you for sharing your work, you help me understand the logic and diagnoses for both electrical/mechanical systems and follow through with their subsequent repairs.
My 2007 Toyota sienna has a 3.5 L V6 in it 169000 miles Seems to be a very strong engine only replaced the water pump , which I guess is a weak point on those The shaft looks like it’s a pretty small diameter, Great video Ivan, Always a learning experience With your videos
I have the same fantastic model. I would have cleaned the mass air flow sensor for sure and installed the correct duel ground Denso or NGK plugs as specified by Toyota. Toyota has even placed a sticker on the timing belt cover the importance of the special plugs.
...but did the owner clean or replace the Air Filter? Also, I believe the seal on the bottom of the filter got pulled out of position because of lack of AirFlow thru the dirty filter. This created a vacuum, and the engine needed air from somewhere. The seal was the first to move. It also may have started crushing some of the plastic conduit attached to the Throttle body as well. LACK OF MAINTENANCE! Not good.
Yeah that was a nice one! Looked like my vacuum cleaner filter after cleaning the coal boiler chimney pipe! 😂🤣😂
Ivan,
Great video - thank you. In this case I have to agree with those that feel that air filter should have been tossed - it was too far gone. And I also winced when I see you use that impact driver to not only remove but also install the spark plugs with those fine threads in an aluminum head.
God bless
Paul (in MA)
Owner does a great job taking care of the truck. LOL
I know, right. Ivan probably had to plunger the oil sludge out.
probably put some hosed air back through the air filter in an effort to remove more dirt. maybe used a can of seafoam cleaner, but great job Ivan. thx for the vid.
Nice find there! Good that the code lead you in a general direction - usually they don't!
I've seen this happen on dirt bikes- filter gets neglected, and pieces of grit (doesn't take much) take up the clearance between the throttle butterfly or slide, and jams the thing wide open. A fun ride on a 2-stroke, LOL! Alot of the time they won't shut off by yanking the spark plug cap, either! Have to get brave and hold both brakes and slowly let the clutch out to kill it. 😂 Been a couple decades since I've seen that!
Good to know about these Toyotas - I'll keep that in the back of my brain. General quality seemed to head downward after '96. That's probably one of the last good vehicles made of ANY brand.
I had a K&N filter in my Silverado for the first 50k miles. That could be why it started burning oil at 50k! It's definitely a ring issue, since it only burns alot of oil if I push it too hard on hills while towing. If I keep the cruise control off, and don't let it scream at 4,500 on every hill, the oil consumption goes back down to a reasonable level.
I had one like this some years ago with the standard air filter in a 7.3 IDI. The customer thought it needed a new injection pump, but clearing the air filter solved the issue
I have no problem with these filters, and special cleaner and oil is not necessary. Any standard window cleaner works fine, and regular 30wt can be used in place of K&N products.
Dump it in a bucket with some windex, wash it out with a hose, dry the element, spray some oil on it and it's good to go.
Oh, one off road recovery will more than pay for a timing belt replacement, so, do the math.
K&N air filter only works best to clean environment but there is dangers of using a K&N filter on your vehicle the K&N air filter does not protect you from fine particles and drit .getting into your engine if you noticed that you will have multiple failures + your mass airflow sensor will go out of control that would be the first thing you will have problems with! dirt and fine particles will get through the filter and destroy your turbo and your engine if you can see sunlight through your filter than your filter is garbage ? if you going on long trips with your vehicle like New York to Florida do not use a K&N air filter!!!!!!
do not use K&N filters on dirty roads you're asking for serious problems
@Lost 1N Space Aquatics: Perfect summary but it falls a bit in summing: In clean environments, *no* filter works best actually! And in environments a great filter solution *is* needed, a K&N-one causes problems...
You watched the project farm one where he tested air filters ?
I have seen thousand time with paper air filter it never none any better.
Owner: wants problem fixed so the truck is reliable as possible and won't break down in the middle of nowhere
Also owner: still has original timing belt with over 260k miles
K & N filters are ok for on road use. They suck for dirty off-road use. The filter oil holds on to dirt and debris that should fall off the filter and accumulate in the box. This eventually reduces efficiency over time since most people will not clean and oil the filter every time they go and get it dirty.
I have seen this system on a Mitsubishi spacewagon, it has the regular throttlecable but the app was mounted at the struttower. Realy funky.
Interesting situation. Truck definitely needed some PHAD TLC! Nice job Ivan.
Maybe I missed something, but I certainly would have replaced the air filter as part of the tune-up along with the plugs and fluids you were to perform. Maybe you did, idk. If not, you contact the customer with a revised estimate to include a stock replacement air filter. Additional part won't break the bank and well spent, especially in this particular case.
24:50 the brown deposit on the threads is combustion deposits when very fine leak develops between the plug gasket and it's seat around the threads (dirt lodged between the plug gasket and head)
In addition to checking if the throttle plate closes , I check the throttle shaft bushings . Just like carburetors in the old days , those shaft bushings can wear out . It may not be often , but it will send you running for a problem . As well as a loose throttle body .
I have a 1999 Tacoma 3400. I placed a K&N air filter on it and had to clean the Mass air flow sensor on it because oil from the filter covered it and slowly pick up dirt and it gave an incorrect reading. I went back to a paper air cleaner and it has run fine ever since.
I trashed my Kinder and Natalie air filter years ago. Project Farm did some air filter testing. The kinder and Natalie air filters pass to much dirt.
I had to remove my intake manifold and actually pressure washed it. Never seen so much dirt get washed out. I now run OEm type filters only.
Good work. I keep my reusable much cleaner. I have two filters. Swap clean one in every two years. Oil and cleaners are cheap. Engines are expensive!
That air filter looks like one of my lawn mower air filters after not cleaning it for 5 years LOL but my engine always ran lean (for 15 years) so it ran worse when I cleaned it. After a rebuild of the carb it ran good with a clean filter.
Google says: . . . use Super Clean to clean the K&N filter and 30W oil can be used. You can use compressed air before washing as long as you don't get to close to the filter with it. Use a garden hose but not to hard. This engine might have eaten a chunk of dirt or a pine needle that set the code but then swallowed the debris and just burned up.
those filters are designed to be cleaned and reused,they do sell kn filter cleaner and oil but just hot soapy water works,im sure you could substitute oil for the filter using mineral oil/veg oil or somthing that wont evaporate in time.those filters are high flow so oil is very important as thats what catches the micro particles if you ever do clean one
yup bucket of super hot water and sunlight clothes detergent for cleaning, and a spray bottle set on mist with atf watered down with 99% isp alcohol, been doing this for years even on my foam filters
@@stunessa1 ill try this detergent,i used dawn liquid soap but detergents should work better
Great diagnosis as per usual, great vlog Ivan.
Thanks for sharing and stay safe all.
Thanks for sharing. These videos are very much appreciated
Yep filthy, no wonder it was acting up.
I'm supprised all that dust didn't ruin the butterfly assembly.
The owner should bring it to you more often for other stuff that needs checking.
Shame that people get something good and reliable, then ignore it untill it stops :-(
I have that same motor on my 02 Tacoma. That's one filthy air filter! Looks like it's never been changed.
Or in his case cleaned
Those hybrid throttle body were what the used just before drive by wire system
My nieces Suzuki Verona has the same sistem. The computer ajust the plate angle via step motor to keep control of the idle and eliminate the need of IAC valve. In addition eliminates the need of external motor to do the cruise control.
Use denso K16tR11 dual ground standard plugs or NGKBKR5ekb-11 as suggested on the lil picture on the timing belt cover, they will last longer. Ditch the K&N it doesn’t fit the air box well, poorly made and just dirties up the entire system with oil and ruins MAF’s.
Yota power!! Haha, those motors are bulletproof!!! Reliable and strong lil uns... lol. I can't unsee this clip when you dewalt it in the spark plug hole. Damn! Makes me cringe lol. You're lucky it didn't go batshit, lol. Nice video! When i got my blazer at 223k miles. Throttle body got so carboned up. Cleaned the hell out of it. It runs like champ. Now it's 240k with original motor and trans. Lol. So anyway. Great job cleaning up the throttle body! Many thumbs up
Take a picture of that air filter, show it to the customer and follow up with a swift dope slap. No words need to be said.
every time i watch this guy i feel cold
Ivan good video and we can always count on the bonus footage. I see the STATAN ISLAND EXPRESS traded one of its team members to North Carolina. You going to keep it going? Don’t forget to send an Email to Rocco to wish him a Happy Birthdays. Hope all is well.❤️ Artie
Again lack of maintenance. I clen those K&N filters in turpentine and blow them dry. New NGK sparkplugs have a special coating so just check the gap and mount them.
Watching this makes me miss my old Tacoma 😔 310,000 miles when the rust took her down. Excellent job by the way! I always enjoy your videos, I've learned so much from watching both you and Eric O.
I agree with some of the other commenters. The aftermarket filter letting debris in probably jammed up the throttle plate. The owner probably hasn't done it much good and should go back to an OEM filter. I think it may cause other issues down the line.
God i love rusty old Toyotas. 😎
Ivan, don't those engines use the twin electrode spark plugs? My 99 Corolla did.
I think stock ones were twin tip, at least in the 90s ones.
Great video Ivan.
At 16:43 you noted that the cam belt may not have been replaced.
As the customer does not want to get stranded out in the back blocks, even thought a broken belt will not cause major motor damage, it will cause the customer some stranded problems if it occurs in the field.
Did you ask the customer if he the belt has been replaced and when?
260,000 miles and no belt change is asking for trouble.
The cause of the deformation of the bottom of the seal on the air "cleaner" could have been caused by increased air pressure and intake vacuum differential with the filter blocked.
ivan said damn there's your problem lady lol
The APP sensor is mounted there because it saved them a bunch of time and money NOT tooling a new pedal assembly. Still very strange.
I swear, if all manufacturers put dielectric grease on the inside of the COP boot, there would be a lot less COP/plug problems !
Thanks for the video
I'm nervous to keep wiggling the throttle plate in my Nissan! Despite I want to clean it
The owner probably only opens the hood just long enough to run wires to those goofy bumper lights. Maintenance?,... it has gas! Good Video Ivan. Thank You for sharing.
It's a Toyota! Maintenance free! 😉
Interesting to see a model with a throttle cable but motor and sensors, too. Belt and suspenders on the transition year. Wise troubleshooting, Ivan.
Thank you. Great Diagnostic Video. Thumbs up..
Probably vacuum from clogged filter made that gap inside down there...also maybe was good enough to measure MAP sensor before dismounting filter itself.
K&N filters and ones alike are meant for pavement Princess vehicles. If you look at project farms video comparing air filters, K&N was 100 times worse at filtering dust, versus a paper filter.
I’m a big believer that a clean vehicle will have less problems than a dirty one.
I had a 1987 4x4 with a 22r. The last year of the carborated trucks. I would have bought another but like you said they are not that good of trucks any more. Much of that is due I think to quality control and Chinesium steel.
Had similar problem with my 2000 tundra 4.7 going into limp mode over throttle body issue. Only on very cold days, if I were to do a quick throttle response after first starting to drive it cold, it would throw a engine light and kick into limp mode. It is a heated throttle body, and when it's real cold out that motor that moves the throttle plate can lag compaired to what the ecm reads the throttle position to be at. So on very cold days I make sure I fully heat my truck up before driving. Knock on wood it's been 6 years trouble free since it's happened.
I believe Hammerjockey is right also maybe before it sucked the gasket not being able to get enough air caused the problem.
Getting a new frame? Boy Ford would have just bought it back.
Great video! Original timing components LOL.
I swear nobody ever cleans those things.Should have pulled the mass air wich im sure was nasty.
in that case the MAF = Muddy Air Flow :)
Its possible a piece of debris got passed that filter just in time to stop the plate from completely closing? After causing that code the computer disabled the throttle control system. That filter was definitely the worst I seen too🤔
Nice maintenance....
I'll never understand the thinking that oem level air filters are somehow lacking.
New frame - wow.
Wrong spark plugs for that engine. You need the dual grounded plugs. Even has a sticker saying that on the timing cover
some mid year line change likely, so that one still had a cable. use up all the ready and stocked parts.
throttle bottle It’s how they did them in the early days
I would say that filter was definitely due to be replaced....When have you ever had you customer tell you what or what not is needed.
U are genius bro thanks for all help
Everytime you were moving the throttle, i can hear that buzzing sound change. Did you notice that Ivan?
Being a Toyota Master Technician. Always use factory parts. This engine uses Twin Ground spark plugs. See label on Timing cover.
I didn't see the label lol
Keep up on the great content. Your videos are awesome.
Ask indicated by others K&N filters are a marketing hype (to the tune of $40). More than one RUclipsr has tested them and the results are in. The K&N filters will let in a little more air (CFM). Along with more dirt and "filter oil". The results are measurable. You be the judge. At best with a modern engine you might get a pony or two for a few months. You then spend the "rest of your days" tracking down oil coated MAF sensors, extra wear in the engine, ....
The Project Farm youtube channel had a good review of air filters.
These aftermarket filters do let through more particulates (especially if as poorly maintained as in this truck), so I wouldn't really recommend them for off-road use. Let's continue watching and see what horrors reveal themselves as you dig deeper.
Edit: and the idle jumps high as the engine breathes easier... to be expected. That should sort itself out.
I can’t be bothered to clean oil a kn filter I just install a paper 🧻 filter every 4 oil changes. That plug was pretty worn and engine was running smooth it must be a Toyota 👍
I can hear the engineers now...."Hey, let's make it look old school, but give it ETC and have them scratching their heads!"
I'm surprised you were not hearing the intake valve screaming???? Specially it started to sing while you were moving it? I'm sure it on it way out as well..... Ugggg
I would change those coils too and use those as spares...
Yikes! Not the environment where you want an air filter not sealed! At least it's just a work truck, and a classic yota that can deal with it.... My 01 3.4 tundra is about to hit 280k and runs / sounds great. I just can't get rid of it, even though it's rusty as heck!
That particular engine type was vulnerable to oil sludge build up on the heads due to a tendency to run hot. Frequent oil changes using the right type of oil is critical. The sludge runs down the engine block into the oil pan plugging the oil pickup and causing the engine to throw a rod due to oil starvation. It's a well known well documented issue.
Wrong engine... You must be talking about the 3.0 Toyota V6 😉
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics No. I'm talking about the 3.4 V6 which had the problem during that era (late 90s early 2000s). I had one with the problem. I looked it up and it was a common problem. They may have fixed it since then. I can't say. It's the very same engine in the truck in the video. There were a lot of battles with Toyota and owners at the time over this engine because they didn't want to honor the warranty and fix them.. Toyota was claiming that people should have had dealership oil changes and that owners were NOT changing the oil often enough and or using the correct oil in order to 'duck out' of having to replace engines.. 3.4 litre V6
@@fredflintstone8048 oh wow I never heard of that problem! Must have been really poor maintenance. Every 3.4 that I have worked on doesn't burn any oil and the oil is never very dark on the dipstick...
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I may have not been clear.. I don't know how much about the problem is still floating around the web. That was 15-20 years ago and it was a big problem. Hundreds of customers having to replace or rebuiding engines. Toyota took a real hit in it's reputation at the time in the truck market because as we know, Toyota up until that time was known and assumed to be a quality truck. Toyota did not advertise this problem at the time, in fact they tried to cover it up and blame the customers.
The problem was not that the engine burned oil. I never ran across 3.4s that burned oil either. The problem was the design of the coolant jacket in the heads. The top of the heads inside the crankcase would run very hot cooking the oil on top of the head creating a sludge that would run down inside the block over time plugging the oil pickup. The solution was to run good quality synthetic oils and change oil often. If people used synthetic blends, or non synthetics they were very prone to this problem.
Ivan, you are one of my all-time favorites ... could you please replace the poster on your garage wall with something less objectionable? Thanks.
Any suggestions?
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics A group picture of you, Eric O, Keith and Joe?
Yep. Got an 03 and bastard did same shit.. randomly the throttle has no response.. replaced tps. Still broke. Tested all wiring and back to the ecu. No signal at ecu.. replaced ecu…. Fixed the issue.. pos.. for a month i just unplugged the tps and accel pos sensor along with the motor in the tb and rigged it up to use the cable only.. was the only time in that motors life where it actually went to 100% throttle.. lol. Otherwise it cuts at 70%..
I noticed the threads on wore out spark which are part of ground electrode was pretty rusty dirty , bad ground eh!?
Are you have to do is put it in a small flat pail pan dish washing soap for a little while and let it soak and then rinse it with hot water do that several times and then let it dry out.
Never miss one of your educational videos great thanks for your time BILL LINY
Always appreciated, Bill!
I would have cleaned the intake temp sensor and MAF sensor also I seen ford had a call back on there throttle bodys kept going limp in mode n also needed reflash after throttle body cleaning
14:00 I reckon the engine sucked in that rubber due to the air filter being blocked!
That's a very likely possibility
Oh Ivan. Tell me I didn't see you start a spark plug with an electric wrench.
Been perfecting that method for years on hundreds of spark plugs... No casualties yet haha
If it ain't broke , don't fix it ? What about maintenance ? If those plugs are original , that's INSANE ! If the gaps are blown open and worn away , how much gas did you save ? And if they stressed the coils and took one out ? On certain engines , Ford's , etc. , they get Frozen in the head and break off . That air filter was also a gas waster . Would you drive that across country ?