I raced a daily driven shop truck 1994 Dodge 2500 2wd with over 220,000 miles on it back in 2005. My fastest 1/8 was 6.9 et @105 and one of the fastest 1/4 was 11.06 @ 128 mph. Running between 1 and 2 stages of N2o. The 11.06 @128 was at a DHRA event at Famoso raceway back 2008 on a single shot of N2o. The engine was running had orginal stock internals and running "stock" head bolts. Turbo was a High Tech 66 with a stainless steal 16cm turbine housing. Injection pump was our in house 13mm pump with a Fass hpfp . The cam gear was welded. Transmission 47RH was built by Joe Webb at Suncoast transmission running their Pro Lock 5 disc torque converter. Detroit locker with slicks and Cal Tracs in the rear. I got a call from Jason Sands one day from Diesel Power Magazine. Asking about how a group of us was getting away with running stock head bolts that he was doing a article on. Garmon Diesel was also running stock head bolts as well. My Theory or what i did and what Garmon was doing is to torque the head bolts in 5 ft lbs increments. Also a high milage head gasket is better then a new head gasket. Why? My Theory is the head gasket, block and cylinder head lap into them selves over time from thermal heat cycles. I raced the truck from 2005 to 2010 and drove it between races every day. I found out the hard way 2 stages of N2o on a single without a external gate only last 2 passes before the turbo comes apart at 80+ psi of boost. But the long block never gave up. I ended up pulling the head because of the aluminium turbine shrapnel getting into the valves. The cylinder walls where perfect no scratches. I do agree head studs are better then head bolts. But we proved how far you can push stock components on these engines. They will go farther then most people think. Nobody thinks to retorqued the head bolts. Thats the 1st thing you should do before turning up these engines. Half the time there under torqued from factory.
Back in the day, lots of stock components were pushed to the limit! The first failure point many see is the blown headgasket so your retorques got you past that issue, and second problem is the cam gear walk issue, which your weld fixed. We still stand by our statement that a 100% stock engine setup is not reliable at 800 RWHP. Also, at 5200 lb 2wd running 128 MPH trap speed requires 750 HP, so close to 800 but, not quite 800 HP. 11.06 @ 128 is still fast, and extremely fast back then for a diesel truck.
The attention to detail from you guys makes your channel interesting to watch. Plus you respond to most all questions. So many RUclipsrs get so big they fail to even address any questions or comments. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to owning a 800hp Cummins some day and you guys will definitely get my support and money spent. 800hp and 20mpg would be incredible.
I love the way you explain and teach!! It’s great to watch your videos .. I have been to turbo school and have learned lots. It’s nice to learn from the pros! Keep up the great work guys!! I love this build!!! Great design and build quality !! Great motor!!Awesome work!!
This episode has cost me about 6k so far lol I bought a 6.7 crank rebuild kit new 5x14 155 spray injectors the mahle pistons with .080 cut off a Hamilton 178/208 cam and a bunch more I cant wait to get it done it should be a beast
Agnes, Tina,... I LOVE the names you come up with for these trucks! 😂😍😂 That engine sounds like a beauty! Might have to do a "Fummins" swap down the road when my 6.4 F-350 bites the bullet. Great job, guys! 🙌
Wow lots of good info. I hope the be the luck one to win Agnes! You guys keep up the great work! More power to you and stay safe. With a truck that fast don't think covid 19 could catch you. Lol..
In the UK our diesel vehicles are embarrassing, 2 ltr is about your max these days. Love watching all your shows, can't believe your knowledge on these things, guess that's through trial and error. If I win will you send it to the UK???? Cheers guys. Keep up braking stuff.
Right the F on guys, this thing is gonna be a RIOT to jack around with for the lucky guy or gal!! Sounds like I better start couch tippin and walkin roadside ditches for coins and beer cans so I can buy a hat or sumpin to get my name scribbled with Crayola on a ticket 🤣. Keep the content comin guys!
When you guys put a fresh build through a heat cycle and “hot-torque” the head, have you ever done the same for the bottom end (caps & rods)? Ever thought it necessary?
I'm a big fan of numbers so I built a couple spreadsheets to calculate cubic inches, liters, and piston speed based on bore, stroke, and number of cylinders. For those who are curious the engine they are talking about is 370.71 Cubic Inches 6.07L which of course rounds up to 6.1 as they have said and as long as you keep the RPM below 6k you keep your piston speed below 5000 ft/min so give her hell :)
I was going to do this but chickened out due to it being my first diesel build. I have a 24V PPUMP, that is totally rebuilt. I have everything that is required. The only thing left to machine (minus going to 0.020 over, should have done this but was right at spec for 330K miles) are the pistons. Does a 24V block need to be clearance to accept a 6.7 crank?
How well do the steel pistons hold up for daily high power use? p.s. I will add that raising compression also makes it start easier in the cold weather.
@@pddofficial really? I figured since they have a similar expansion rate as the cast iron cylinders, tolerances could be tighter plus steel reflects the heat much better than aluminum and of course it's tougher material than aluminum. What happens when they fail at 30k? What is the cause?
So what’s a safe boost level for light daily chores and occasional towing maybe 24k lbs through the mountains with this setup? Love your vids btw, super educational and entertaining.
I haven't been lucky enough to see a set of fire rings not break before they reached 100K miles yet. Of course that is a lot of thrashing on one of these engines at that power level. How many over 800hp 5.9's have you seen make it 100K miles without needing the head to come off?
There are not a lot of 800+ HP trucks out there, so the sample size is really small. There are a lot of lower HP trucks with firerings over 100k miles, these new round groove mild steel solid 4.550" fire rings are extremely reliable.
@@pddofficial Understand that I only ever had 4 out of hundreds of trucks I have worked on that would have met the 800hp+ criteria that got drove and used a lot and 60000mi was the farthest any of them got before having to get worked on. 800hp legit is a big number for a driven 12V. I had a piano wired 600hp truck go 200,000+ and the engine was still going but the rest of the truck was gone and it pulled a 20Klb backhoe 80% of its life. The driver treated it properly though not abusing it just using the power to hold speeds on hills.
I would love to have you guys test my head portwork against the best. I out in a larger seat and port it out about 4mm to the sealing angle so I port it to the maximum % for a reliable biuld. Then open up the bore and smooth out the ports... I use 1/8 6" long burrs and can get a very nice port I just can't clean the floors without lopping off the intake but the rough floor kinda helps tumble the air nicely into the chambers. I would love to see you guys test my work if I can send in a head for you to test it against others available. Maybe good piece of content i think.
Yalls daily driven 1200hp 2400ft lb truck......how long do yall expect to get out of it before internal maintenance is necessary like rings pistons valves ect???
Power driven diesel, please let us know the pricing of a build like this. I know I’m not the only one who is wondering how much this build would cost. PLEASE let us know
Crate engine builds have a wide range of pricing depending on what specific parts are upgraded. In short, pricing is heavily dependent on parts that go into the engine build. For a home build, assuming you already have a 5.9 12v, the 6.7 crank is $1,000. The piston kit is $807. Machining is $1,000 to $2,000 depending on what your machine shop charges. The list goes on and on....
Power Driven Diesel more to the point, why don’t you guys start building this exact engine and sell them on your webpage and just have a set price for it. I’m sure people will give you there old engine as a core!
You can add up the parts on the website, but starting from a bone stock 215 HP 12v engine, you'd have about 12k in the engine build, 2.3k in the pump, plus whatever turbo turbo system you went with.
@Player One We build similar engines to the this setup on a regular basis. The usually come in between 10k and 15k including machining and assembly labor.
At what horsepower would y’all recommend on expanding the block? Like for piston clearance? And was the 400k miles thing true? That you should actually have enough space? Or clearance?
We've seen 300k engines with 009" piston to wall and mid 030" for top ring gap, plenty for 750 HP all day. We've seen 400k mile engines as tight as 005" piston to wall and just 025" top ring gap, probably only good till about 500 HP. If temperatures are controlled and timing is somewhat conservative, you don't need as much clearance at a given power level. The downside is if your run out of room, pistons are scuffed, rings butt, and bores get scarred up.
Why not steel pistons like they use the OTR diesels? I know they are crazy expensive but I'm talking about your race trucks not the give away truck? That way you don't have to run such crazy clearances since the piston and block grow at the same rate or close since obviously the piston is getting hotter than the block when you're running 2.5-3k hp.
This video just came to me. I have 97 with 525,000 miles on it. I want to build it up now that I am retiring the truck from service. Is it too late to enter? If not, How to enter.
Technically, if the blanket keeps more heat energy in the exhaust stream, there will be more energy to drive the turbo under the same operating conditions and usually more boost/mass air flow from the turbo lowers EGT, so we'd guess EGT would go down with a blanket. However, will it go down enough on your truck to measure/notice, we don't know?
Question: Doing this stroker build, is there a chance that since the piston is traveling further down the bore, that you might get a higher chance for piston rock as it gets to the bottom of the stroke? I know this can be a problem with Chevy ls engines when doing a stroker, but was curious if this might happen in this particular setup.
Cummins pistons are much longer than V-8 gasser engines, way less chance to have piston rock problems. In fact, there are some high RPM sled pull applications using 5" or even 5.125" stroke successfully, so the 4.88" stroke of the 6.7 crank is of little concern.... but good question!!!
Hey guys, I'm looking to buy your 485 hp diy 47re soon, along with the 450hp fuel kit. Will my stock internals and turbo be able to deal with that for a bit ? I've already got 509k km on it lol.
Most 4x4 12v's like this get 18 to 20 MPG driving empty on the freeway here in Utah at 80 MPH. Loaded with a heavy trailer, the mileage usually drops down to the 11 to 13 MPG depending on speed and size of trailer. But there are those freak trucks that run really slow like 65 MPH and have low rolling resistance highway tires with responsible drivers that regularly see mid 20's for MPG. Will and Todd both hotrod so much, they are lucky to see 15 MPG in anything.....
Power Driven Diesel my 12v 4x4 nv4500 with 4:10s taps out at 70mph. I only have a cut fuel plate and 100hp injectors, with 4inexh, and only get like 14-17 driving nice.
We chose the Mahle pistons with the single ring land because they have more meat above the top ring land for flycutting/valve reliefs. With this being a stroker engine needing 080" milled off the top of the pistons, plus even deeper valve reliefs for the bigger cam, we decided to play it safe and run these pistons.
Quick question does the truck also come with a traffic lawyer? If not I'm not sure if I should enter :) I've already paid for the repaving of far too many of our nations highways.
@@pddofficial that's a shocker to me! I put h bearings in my 12v when I built it. My thinking was if I'm making about 600hp at the crank and spinning it 4krpms, I didn't wanna stack a bearing. Which was exactly what the problem with my engine was when I bought it from its last owner.
Is that white lithium grease you use for assembly lube? If so, why lithium rather than one of the many purpose made lubes? Not making fun, it's a legitimate curiosity of mine.
@@pddofficial thanks for the reply. I'm gathering parts to build a common rail for my 03. What assembly lube is that? I'll add it to my list of things to buy.
I'm just waiting for my 800 hp ticking time bomb to blow-up head has never been off all stock but fuel air valve spring and mighty diesel headbolts and a little nitrous.
Not to be rude, but there are a ton of "800 internet HP" trucks out there that fail to crack 600 rwhp on PDD's mustang dyno here at 5600' elevation. But your truck may be different..... We'd be impressed if there was a 1/4 mile time slip to backup the 800 HP on a stock engine, because we've never seen a stock head gasket with bolts of any make hold up at 800 rwhp. We've also never seen a stock cam gear stay put long term on an 800 HP p-pumped engine, they always walk off the nose of the cam around the 700 to 750 rwhp mark. But its possible your results may vary.
@@pddofficial it's a stick shift sorry no time slip cam gear is staying on just fine tried to put in a Hamilton cam about four years ago waited over 3 months to get it and then sent me something I didn't want turn into a huge hassle so I put the stock one back in with a little tack weld have put 50k on the truck 64/71/12 over s480 has seen 85 psi without nitrous! Stock original head gasket with 230,000 miles on it!1998 4x4 5spd for door. YES it is a ticking time bomb that for some reason keeps ticking. When it finally blows up I will be calling for parts!!!
Power Driven Diesel - PDD logo on the front and a sweet pic of The Godfather on the back with “Mechanical Mafia” in some old school script would be sweet. Also you guys need to build a fast 1st gen next!
I would love to see a full build sheet on this motor
Holy shit! I’ve never heard of doing a 5.9 top end 6.7 bottom end Cummins. Raising the compression ratio made me drool.
Mechanical Mafia!!!
My favorite diesel channel!
Mine too!
More than Deboss Garage?
First time I've ever heard of a diesel stroker engine, didn't know that was possible. That's awesome, 🤘👌
Glad you liked it!
I raced a daily driven shop truck 1994 Dodge 2500 2wd with over 220,000 miles on it back in 2005.
My fastest 1/8 was 6.9 et @105 and one of the fastest 1/4 was 11.06 @ 128 mph. Running between 1 and 2 stages of N2o. The 11.06 @128 was at a DHRA event at Famoso raceway back 2008 on a single shot of N2o.
The engine was running had orginal stock internals and running "stock" head bolts. Turbo was a High Tech 66 with a stainless steal 16cm turbine housing. Injection pump was our in house 13mm pump with a Fass hpfp . The cam gear was welded.
Transmission 47RH was built by Joe Webb at Suncoast transmission running their Pro Lock 5 disc torque converter.
Detroit locker with slicks and Cal Tracs in the rear.
I got a call from Jason Sands one day from Diesel Power Magazine. Asking about how a group of us was getting away with running stock head bolts that he was doing a article on. Garmon Diesel was also running stock head bolts as well. My Theory or what i did and what Garmon was doing is to torque the head bolts in 5 ft lbs increments. Also a high milage head gasket is better then a new head gasket. Why? My Theory is the head gasket, block and cylinder head lap into them selves over time from thermal heat cycles.
I raced the truck from 2005 to 2010 and drove it between races every day. I found out the hard way 2 stages of N2o on a single without a external gate only last 2 passes before the turbo comes apart at 80+ psi of boost.
But the long block never gave up. I ended up pulling the head because of the aluminium turbine shrapnel getting into the valves. The cylinder walls where perfect no scratches.
I do agree head studs are better then head bolts. But we proved how far you can push stock components on these engines. They will go farther then most people think. Nobody thinks to retorqued the head bolts. Thats the 1st thing you should do before turning up these engines. Half the time there under torqued from factory.
Back in the day, lots of stock components were pushed to the limit! The first failure point many see is the blown headgasket so your retorques got you past that issue, and second problem is the cam gear walk issue, which your weld fixed. We still stand by our statement that a 100% stock engine setup is not reliable at 800 RWHP. Also, at 5200 lb 2wd running 128 MPH trap speed requires 750 HP, so close to 800 but, not quite 800 HP. 11.06 @ 128 is still fast, and extremely fast back then for a diesel truck.
The attention to detail from you guys makes your channel interesting to watch. Plus you respond to most all questions. So many RUclipsrs get so big they fail to even address any questions or comments. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to owning a 800hp Cummins some day and you guys will definitely get my support and money spent. 800hp and 20mpg would be incredible.
thank you!
you guys should do a video or two on the stroker setup and working the block to fit the crank..? i know id be interested for sure haha
One day it is in the plans to do it
I love the way you explain and teach!! It’s great to watch your videos .. I have been to turbo school and have learned lots. It’s nice to learn from the pros! Keep up the great work guys!! I love this build!!! Great design and build quality !! Great motor!!Awesome work!!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed turbo school! I should really re-do that series.
This episode has cost me about 6k so far lol I bought a 6.7 crank rebuild kit new 5x14 155 spray injectors the mahle pistons with .080 cut off a Hamilton 178/208 cam and a bunch more I cant wait to get it done it should be a beast
What con rods did you use
@@gokartmadness3047 12 valve rods you have to have your pistons machined or you can buy them from power driven diesel already machined
@@tjboggs3710 have you had any issues with them ive heard when you put the 6.7 crank in they like to bend rods
@@gokartmadness3047 I haven’t ran it yet it’s still sitting on the engine stand I’ve been debating on selling it but I really want to run it
Bought my first Cummins in 1991 ... this is good stuff
Guess doing my head gasket on my 12v happened at the right time! I need a truck like this!
I need to get entered into this lol that thing is gonna be sweet!
Yes you do!!!
You guys are awesome can't wait to win this truck!!!!
I like the enthusiasm man! We can share custody of it lmao, this thing will be a RIOT for the sure!
Agnes, Tina,... I LOVE the names you come up with for these trucks! 😂😍😂
That engine sounds like a beauty! Might have to do a "Fummins" swap down the road when my 6.4 F-350 bites the bullet.
Great job, guys! 🙌
That would be cool! Everyone loves a good Fummins!!!
I swapped a 12v cummins into my 78 bronco. I love it. 60k miles now, and a few rear driveshafts twisted off, but FUN. lol
Probably the only guys I would trust a giveaway truck from
Appreciate it!
Awesome info. Hopefully I win this truck, it will be my first diesel ever. Keep up good work and looking forward for more videos.
Good luck!
Wow lots of good info. I hope the be the luck one to win Agnes! You guys keep up the great work! More power to you and stay safe. With a truck that fast don't think covid 19 could catch you. Lol..
In the UK our diesel vehicles are embarrassing, 2 ltr is about your max these days. Love watching all your shows, can't believe your knowledge on these things, guess that's through trial and error. If I win will you send it to the UK???? Cheers guys. Keep up braking stuff.
as always a great and informative video, thanks guys!!!
Thanks again!
Boy would have loved to won this.
Right the F on guys, this thing is gonna be a RIOT to jack around with for the lucky guy or gal!! Sounds like I better start couch tippin and walkin roadside ditches for coins and beer cans so I can buy a hat or sumpin to get my name scribbled with Crayola on a ticket 🤣. Keep the content comin guys!
It only takes one entry to win.... LOL
@@pddofficial true dat!!
Fun video, thanks for all the details!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Wanting to do this to a 99 24v cummins, going to swap into my 96 f350, either a stroker or finding a 6.7 and converting to vp, daily + towing rig
When you guys put a fresh build through a heat cycle and “hot-torque” the head, have you ever done the same for the bottom end (caps & rods)? Ever thought it necessary?
So y’all bored it .010 and kept the stock size piston correct?
Yes
I'm a big fan of numbers so I built a couple spreadsheets to calculate cubic inches, liters, and piston speed based on bore, stroke, and number of cylinders. For those who are curious the engine they are talking about is 370.71 Cubic Inches 6.07L which of course rounds up to 6.1 as they have said and as long as you keep the RPM below 6k you keep your piston speed below 5000 ft/min so give her hell :)
I absolutely love the idea if the sleeper. I'm about sleepers
The only problem is word quickly spreads about the "sleeper" so you have to constantly race new people in different localities to keep the secret....
@@pddofficial I'm all about fishing lol
I was going to do this but chickened out due to it being my first diesel build. I have a 24V PPUMP, that is totally rebuilt. I have everything that is required. The only thing left to machine (minus going to 0.020 over, should have done this but was right at spec for 330K miles) are the pistons. Does a 24V block need to be clearance to accept a 6.7 crank?
How well do the steel pistons hold up for daily high power use?
p.s. I will add that raising compression also makes it start easier in the cold weather.
Steel pistons are good for 20-30k at most
@@pddofficial really? I figured since they have a similar expansion rate as the cast iron cylinders, tolerances could be tighter plus steel reflects the heat much better than aluminum and of course it's tougher material than aluminum. What happens when they fail at 30k? What is the cause?
I no I can't wait to go up their so we can drive it 😁😂🤣
Does the block need clearancing needed for the crankshaft throws or the rods themselves? Thx
So what’s a safe boost level for light daily chores and occasional towing maybe 24k lbs through the mountains with this setup? Love your vids btw, super educational and entertaining.
Great content guys
I haven't been lucky enough to see a set of fire rings not break before they reached 100K miles yet. Of course that is a lot of thrashing on one of these engines at that power level. How many over 800hp 5.9's have you seen make it 100K miles without needing the head to come off?
There are not a lot of 800+ HP trucks out there, so the sample size is really small. There are a lot of lower HP trucks with firerings over 100k miles, these new round groove mild steel solid 4.550" fire rings are extremely reliable.
@@pddofficial Understand that I only ever had 4 out of hundreds of trucks I have worked on that would have met the 800hp+ criteria that got drove and used a lot and 60000mi was the farthest any of them got before having to get worked on. 800hp legit is a big number for a driven 12V. I had a piano wired 600hp truck go 200,000+ and the engine was still going but the rest of the truck was gone and it pulled a 20Klb backhoe 80% of its life. The driver treated it properly though not abusing it just using the power to hold speeds on hills.
I would love to have you guys test my head portwork against the best. I out in a larger seat and port it out about 4mm to the sealing angle so I port it to the maximum % for a reliable biuld. Then open up the bore and smooth out the ports... I use 1/8 6" long burrs and can get a very nice port I just can't clean the floors without lopping off the intake but the rough floor kinda helps tumble the air nicely into the chambers. I would love to see you guys test my work if I can send in a head for you to test it against others available. Maybe good piece of content i think.
Sure, we can test your head. Send us an email or call in and let us know it's headed our way so Will can schedule time to get it flow tested.
Yalls daily driven 1200hp 2400ft lb truck......how long do yall expect to get out of it before internal maintenance is necessary like rings pistons valves ect???
60k maybe more
I’ve put in a lot of ordered this month just to win this sucker. Not to mention I’d do some weird sh** to win this sucker.
Best of luck to you!
What size injectors did you put in it?
Can't wait for the drawing for this truck. And who won the march drawing?
I want you guys to do a review of the wiseco stroker piston for the Cummins one day.
I have looked in all your videos about this truck but couldn’t find anything about what the gap was on the rings. Do you have to open up all three?
Hell ya
Power driven diesel, please let us know the pricing of a build like this. I know I’m not the only one who is wondering how much this build would cost. PLEASE let us know
Crate engine builds have a wide range of pricing depending on what specific parts are upgraded. In short, pricing is heavily dependent on parts that go into the engine build. For a home build, assuming you already have a 5.9 12v, the 6.7 crank is $1,000. The piston kit is $807. Machining is $1,000 to $2,000 depending on what your machine shop charges. The list goes on and on....
Power Driven Diesel more to the point, why don’t you guys start building this exact engine and sell them on your webpage and just have a set price for it. I’m sure people will give you there old engine as a core!
Roughly what is the compression ratio of that 6.1 stroker and can you use a low compression 5.9 L piston in a 6.1 L stroker build
Typically 18.5:1 if you used a low compression piston 16.5:1
I've got a 5.9 24v and I'm looking for 800to850 I've got the stage 2 rebuild ket now what must I do to reach my goal
I like the level of detail you guys give.
Would you happen to know the cam specs for a NA (suction) engine? (for comparison) Thanks.
The only stock cams we've played with or seen in person were from turbo Cummins applications. The factory 12v cam is approx 159/204 with a 102 LSA.
@@pddofficial Thanks!
280 thumbs up w/o a thumbs down..? Holy crapper, unbelievable...
of course I just jinxed it huh.? Great job boys
309 now with no 👎
Can we order this engine built to drop in our trucks?
So if walked in the door and said build me this engine how much$$$$$$$$$$$ are we talking?
THIS ^^^
Better to not ask.. I'd say get this setup if you want it that's it. Cost be dammed!
I bet its cheaper than factory gas engine for truck.
You can add up the parts on the website, but starting from a bone stock 215 HP 12v engine, you'd have about 12k in the engine build, 2.3k in the pump, plus whatever turbo turbo system you went with.
@Player One We build similar engines to the this setup on a regular basis. The usually come in between 10k and 15k including machining and assembly labor.
At what horsepower would y’all recommend on expanding the block? Like for piston clearance? And was the 400k miles thing true? That you should actually have enough space? Or clearance?
It just depends on how the truck was used. My 96 has 470000 miles on it shes Well losen up lol
We've seen 300k engines with 009" piston to wall and mid 030" for top ring gap, plenty for 750 HP all day. We've seen 400k mile engines as tight as 005" piston to wall and just 025" top ring gap, probably only good till about 500 HP.
If temperatures are controlled and timing is somewhat conservative, you don't need as much clearance at a given power level. The downside is if your run out of room, pistons are scuffed, rings butt, and bores get scarred up.
Why not steel pistons like they use the OTR diesels? I know they are crazy expensive but I'm talking about your race trucks not the give away truck? That way you don't have to run such crazy clearances since the piston and block grow at the same rate or close since obviously the piston is getting hotter than the block when you're running 2.5-3k hp.
Can This motor fit in my ford 2008 CUMMINS VTA 903 600 HP DIESEL ENGINE
How would that 6.7l crank work in a 12v used for towing with a set of compounds around 500-550hp
There's no replacement for displacement!!! It would work excellent in your application!
@@pddofficial
All I got to done is grind the block in a few spots for the webs to clear and cut the pistons 80 thousands
This video just came to me. I have 97 with 525,000 miles on it. I want to build it up now that I am retiring the truck from service. Is it too late to enter? If not, How to enter.
Do the ARP main studs require a line bore on the mains?
if it's a 97 or 98 storm block no all other 12 valves yes
Okay so you guys did a video a while back about turbo blankets do they make your egts worse i just want one but my egts are already a toasty 1500 soo?
Technically, if the blanket keeps more heat energy in the exhaust stream, there will be more energy to drive the turbo under the same operating conditions and usually more boost/mass air flow from the turbo lowers EGT, so we'd guess EGT would go down with a blanket. However, will it go down enough on your truck to measure/notice, we don't know?
How much would it cost to order an engine with this build?
Question: Doing this stroker build, is there a chance that since the piston is traveling further down the bore, that you might get a higher chance for piston rock as it gets to the bottom of the stroke? I know this can be a problem with Chevy ls engines when doing a stroker, but was curious if this might happen in this particular setup.
Cummins pistons are much longer than V-8 gasser engines, way less chance to have piston rock problems. In fact, there are some high RPM sled pull applications using 5" or even 5.125" stroke successfully, so the 4.88" stroke of the 6.7 crank is of little concern.... but good question!!!
@@pddofficial thanks for answering my questio! You guys seriously are awesome 🤟
i have a big question.
i wanna build a similarly motor and for the crank is it just a factory 6.7 crank?
it is a stock 6.7 crank that you start with
Hey guys, I'm looking to buy your 485 hp diy 47re soon, along with the 450hp fuel kit. Will my stock internals and turbo be able to deal with that for a bit ? I've already got 509k km on it lol.
For my 96 12v
No problem, it sounds good and broke-in, ready for 600 to 700 HP with no issues.
Good and broke in lol, I'm so excited! Thanks guys
since I live like 20 min away, will I still be entered if I come in to buy my rebuild kit ?
Sure, every dollar spent is an entry into the giveaway!
What’s the max you can bore a 5.9 block?
.040 then you will need sleeves.
Hey don't make jokes about my stock Cummins.😢 It will be getting governor springs soon but I just haven't had time yet.😂
How do I go about getting my hands on these pistons?
I have a 2006 2500 24v will this stroker work?
No not enough meat on the common rail pistons
@@pddofficial thank you. what would you recommend for 800hp reliable daily tow and work truck. 24v
Truck has head studs,lift pump ,25% injectors and stage two transmission everything else is stock what could i do to get the most with what I have?
How do the 24 valve flow numbers compare with stock 12 valve and modified 12 valve?
on the head?
@@pddofficial Yes.... I'm just an amature engine guy what other flow numbers are there?
Did you dyno Agnes?
What kind of fuel mileage would this engine get?
Most 4x4 12v's like this get 18 to 20 MPG driving empty on the freeway here in Utah at 80 MPH. Loaded with a heavy trailer, the mileage usually drops down to the 11 to 13 MPG depending on speed and size of trailer. But there are those freak trucks that run really slow like 65 MPH and have low rolling resistance highway tires with responsible drivers that regularly see mid 20's for MPG. Will and Todd both hotrod so much, they are lucky to see 15 MPG in anything.....
Power Driven Diesel my 12v 4x4 nv4500 with 4:10s taps out at 70mph. I only have a cut fuel plate and 100hp injectors, with 4inexh, and only get like 14-17 driving nice.
Were can I get one of those fire ring grove cutters
They are sold from a company called BHJ in California. The whole setup runs about $2,500. But it makes a good cut if you surface the head first!
Did you guys ever announce the giveaway on the turbos and injectors?
The winners are posted on the top of PDD's website.
@@pddofficial oh thank you I don't know how I missed that.
why not use the marine pistons with both of the compression ring lands iron?
We chose the Mahle pistons with the single ring land because they have more meat above the top ring land for flycutting/valve reliefs. With this being a stroker engine needing 080" milled off the top of the pistons, plus even deeper valve reliefs for the bigger cam, we decided to play it safe and run these pistons.
Is this 400k mile reliable?
Well dang! I just bought IFG studs for my 6.7 not even 2 weeks ago..... :(
You are still entered into the drawing, the giveaway started in March and runs through portions of May!
@@pddofficial great news! Thanks.
I bought from y'all because of the great videos and information you all share.
Keep it up!
Quick question does the truck also come with a traffic lawyer? If not I'm not sure if I should enter :) I've already paid for the repaving of far too many of our nations highways.
Kinda curious why y'all went with p-bearings and not with H or HX bearings?
yes because p bearings are good to 1000hp
@@pddofficial that's a shocker to me! I put h bearings in my 12v when I built it. My thinking was if I'm making about 600hp at the crank and spinning it 4krpms, I didn't wanna stack a bearing. Which was exactly what the problem with my engine was when I bought it from its last owner.
Is that white lithium grease you use for assembly lube? If so, why lithium rather than one of the many purpose made lubes? Not making fun, it's a legitimate curiosity of mine.
It is an engine assembly lube. It just resembles the grease.
@@pddofficial thanks for the reply. I'm gathering parts to build a common rail for my 03. What assembly lube is that? I'll add it to my list of things to buy.
You guys should just build diff motor quality’s with core charge 😃😄
What CR do you end up with after machining the pistons?
17;1;1
Power Driven Diesel perfect!
I'm just waiting for my 800 hp ticking time bomb to blow-up head has never been off all stock but fuel air valve spring and mighty diesel headbolts and a little nitrous.
Not to be rude, but there are a ton of "800 internet HP" trucks out there that fail to crack 600 rwhp on PDD's mustang dyno here at 5600' elevation. But your truck may be different..... We'd be impressed if there was a 1/4 mile time slip to backup the 800 HP on a stock engine, because we've never seen a stock head gasket with bolts of any make hold up at 800 rwhp. We've also never seen a stock cam gear stay put long term on an 800 HP p-pumped engine, they always walk off the nose of the cam around the 700 to 750 rwhp mark. But its possible your results may vary.
@@pddofficial it's a stick shift sorry no time slip cam gear is staying on just fine tried to put in a Hamilton cam about four years ago waited over 3 months to get it and then sent me something I didn't want turn into a huge hassle so I put the stock one back in with a little tack weld have put 50k on the truck 64/71/12 over s480 has seen 85 psi without nitrous! Stock original head gasket with 230,000 miles on it!1998 4x4 5spd for door. YES it is a ticking time bomb that for some reason keeps ticking. When it finally blows up I will be calling for parts!!!
List of parts and prices please
Can the light weights 6.7 crank go in a 03 5.9 block
Yes, the light weight crank fits in all the blocks.
@@pddofficial thank you
How do the fire rings hold up on a dd?
Just fine the issue used to be they had a square edge and now they are rounded edge no issues with them
Update on the charger?
I think my 6.7 .020 over block with a 5.9 crank works out to 6.55L. Be mocking those 6.6 duramaxes lol
Depending on your piston to wall, the math adds up correctly to 6.55L!!!
My 5.9 is about ready at 420k miles... I'm not sure I could afford the transmission.
Need Mechanical Mafia Hoodies
Tell us how you'd like it designed and we can get them on the website!!! Plain on front or PDD logo on front and Mechancial Mafia on the back?
Power Driven Diesel - PDD logo on the front and a sweet pic of The Godfather on the back with “Mechanical Mafia” in some old school script would be sweet. Also you guys need to build a fast 1st gen next!
Wait a second I bought a turbo for my 3rd gen does that mean for every dollar that costed I have an entry??
Yes, you should have a bunch of entries! Be sure to follow along with the rest of the build, this truck is going to be an excellent prize!!!
Power Driven Diesel hell yeah that’s awesome
This is the engine I need for my rat rod. I'm bored of the 400hp build.
WHERE CAN I ENTER TO WIN THE TRUCK?!
powerdrivendiesel.com
Every dollar spent is an entry!
My 6.2l Detroit is better 😁
U guys talk too much..
Your comment is kind of short, do you normally not have much to say?