The original "Squeeze-play" was developed by Robert Sieveking, a locksmith, inventor, and writer for The National Locksmith magazine. About 20 years ago I was in Minnesota taking classes at Doyle Security Products and I saw a class called wafer lock reading taught by Mr. Sieveking, it was only fifteen dollars and would fill a time slot between my morning and afternoon classes so I signed up even though I was already a "seasoned" locksmith with three years experience and knew all I needed to know about making keys for wafer locks. That class turned out to be the most valuable class I have ever taken and paid for itself many thousands of times over.
That was really cool to watch. I always wondered how a lock was seated in a metal door, a neat tool you used. Thanks for this 'go to work with Jason day' video, cheers
I’d love to see your tips and tricks for metal door installations and repairs. Maybe in a commercial locksmith series or something. So many gems like this, using tabs, aftermarket kits, etc. Shoot man even how not to drop tabs and nuts in a metal door or jam lol. I know I’ve learned the hard way. I really enjoy your content Jason. No idea how many years I’ve been following but it has to be nearing a decade now. Wild how much I’ve learned. Thank you for keeping the channel going!
It still kills me how many doors are released out into the wild each year without deadbolts. But you can help solve this tragic problem. Just call your local neighborhood locksmith, and adopt one today!
I am installing a deadbolt lock on the metal walk in door of my shop. I've got everything figured out except the strike plate. There is a recessed strike plate for the knob set that's on it now so I suppose I can take it out and see how it was done. If I am able to install the deadbolt strike plate I will have to use a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel. It could get nasty! Oh, and I love the trick of putting a pen through the bolt hole to mark the jamb. I will most definitely be using that one. Great video and the only one I could find that answered nearly all my questions.
Metal frame, just drill your 1” hole. It’s unnecessary to install a metal strike. There are no tools available to form the indention for the strike plate :) If there is enough of a gap in door and frame you “could” install the strike (just on the surface) but again mostly unnecessary
Lock Picking Electrician I once attempted to make a double D punch (for cam style locks) out of one of those electrical ones but it just didn’t work well. This one really isn’t a punch more like a press tho
Hi Jason thanks for taking the time to do this video. Nice job. Them drill bits seem a bit dull or is it just the metal of the door ? Blinked and thought hang on a minute is it snowing ? Then made the image bigger to see what it was. Thanks again.
I've used mine only a few times but I love it. Drive-ins are an alternative but not great since they can spin. Curious, why the plates and C-Clamps? And why not tap the holes before installing screws? Great work, it's always nice to see real locksmith work as opposed to just BS lock picking!
Todd Geer they were tapped at 11:34 The plates and clamps will keep the door from bowing out, you definitely don’t want that to happen! Get ya some metal plates & clamps!
Kevin Koepke no, there’s a definite feel to it (notice I was going slower and slower and letting the metal do its thing without rushing it. Once it gets pretty much too tight to turn you are done. I’ve had to redo many because they didn’t end up being deep enough
One of these days, I'm going to get a torque wrench, and see if there's any consistency. What I hate is having to clear out the wood on a solid core door.
Take the hole saw off, so you can see while drilling the pilot and the saw doesn't make a mess as the pilot goes through, then put the hole saw on and drill the hole...
that’s my least favorite part about the results of any metal frame install, there are “strike cups” but they are pretty much just press fit in, pop out easily, and suck (especially on tight doors)
Any alternatives, I want to add a dead bolt to my residential door, I can drill through front and back of metal covered door. I can drill the one inch hole on the edge. $200 for this seems expensive for a single use. Couldn’t find anyone who would rent one. Any one used a dremal type tool or osolating tool to cut through the metal for the plate.
@@selock Yes, I have four external doors that are all metal plated, wood in the middle but metal plated, the edge is u-shaped, goes over the edge of the door then the metal plates over the faces covering the lip. It's very thin, I drilled into it to mount a lock drill guide but then backed off once I realized it had a metal edge. Inspected all the doors and they are all the same. House built about 30 years ago
Harry Pottar hmm there were some oddball ones built back then. There are really only two options with the main one being use a deadbolt with a drive in adaptor or use a latch mounting plate (give me a few to get a link) and cutout a rectangle for it, they have two little legs on top and bottom and it has to be riveted in but is absolutely not ideal for these applications. Drive in bolt is best option but send me a picture of the edge of the door to selockandkey@gmail.com please
The original "Squeeze-play" was developed by Robert Sieveking, a locksmith, inventor, and writer for The National Locksmith magazine. About 20 years ago I was in Minnesota taking classes at Doyle Security Products and I saw a class called wafer lock reading taught by Mr. Sieveking, it was only fifteen dollars and would fill a time slot between my morning and afternoon classes so I signed up even though I was already a "seasoned" locksmith with three years experience and knew all I needed to know about making keys for wafer locks.
That class turned out to be the most valuable class I have ever taken and paid for itself many thousands of times over.
What are the names of all the tools he uses?
That was really cool to watch. I always wondered how a lock was seated in a metal door, a neat tool you used. Thanks for this 'go to work with Jason day' video, cheers
I’d love to see your tips and tricks for metal door installations and repairs. Maybe in a commercial locksmith series or something. So many gems like this, using tabs, aftermarket kits, etc. Shoot man even how not to drop tabs and nuts in a metal door or jam lol. I know I’ve learned the hard way. I really enjoy your content Jason. No idea how many years I’ve been following but it has to be nearing a decade now. Wild how much I’ve learned. Thank you for keeping the channel going!
It still kills me how many doors are released out into the wild each year without deadbolts.
But you can help solve this tragic problem. Just call your local neighborhood locksmith, and adopt one today!
Great Tool. If I were a younger guy I’d get one. Not many of these road jobs left for me anymore. Another Professional job Jason.👍
I am installing a deadbolt lock on the metal walk in door of my shop. I've got everything figured out except the strike plate. There is a recessed strike plate for the knob set that's on it now so I suppose I can take it out and see how it was done. If I am able to install the deadbolt strike plate I will have to use a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel. It could get nasty! Oh, and I love the trick of putting a pen through the bolt hole to mark the jamb. I will most definitely be using that one. Great video and the only one I could find that answered nearly all my questions.
Metal frame, just drill your 1” hole. It’s unnecessary to install a metal strike. There are no tools available to form the indention for the strike plate :)
If there is enough of a gap in door and frame you “could” install the strike (just on the surface) but again mostly unnecessary
@@selock Thanks, man!
Outstanding job!
This was really helpful. The other videos don't really show installation on metal doors. Thanks a lot.
We have several of these videos with the squeeze play, search our channel for that term! :)
Very cool! I wondered how the plates were sunk into the door.. Thanks for this!
I love the squeeze play.
Cool tool. I don’t have that tool yet. So I just remove the flange part of the latch and install the adapter for circle holes. Seems just fine
Well done! I have one of those Sargent Levers...came in the bottom of a box of parts I nabbed on Craigslist for five bucks.
Oh man... I've run into a few of these horrendous foam filled doors in the UK. Literally nothing makes them secure.
We use those knockout cutters in electrical there just round instead of a rectangle
Lock Picking Electrician I once attempted to make a double D punch (for cam style locks) out of one of those electrical ones but it just didn’t work well.
This one really isn’t a punch more like a press tho
@@selock yes my dumbass commented before the end lol but we do use those hole saws
Hello at 6:45 what is the reason for the plate on the side that's clamped?
Is it to prevent it from bending the door outward?
Yes
I always enjoy watching the Squeeze Play. I can never remember the proper name of the jig.
@@Ghost_Os thx so much.
someone was complaining about these on the locksmith reddit the other day...
Hi Jason thanks for taking the time to do this video.
Nice job. Them drill bits seem a bit dull or is it just the metal of the door ?
Blinked and thought hang on a minute is it snowing ?
Then made the image bigger to see what it was.
Thanks again.
How did you attach your chain/tether to the piece that goes inside the door?
drill and tap a hole
Hey ,nice video. How did you mount a security chain on Squeeze play?
Drill and tap
@@selock My fault, I should have bought the version with whole and side plates! Thanks!
And questions #2: Does the LSDA 220 deadbolts come with the proper machine screws for metal doors? Or do you supply them yourself?
yea, in fact they come with 1 1/4” long ones
I've used mine only a few times but I love it. Drive-ins are an alternative but not great since they can spin. Curious, why the plates and C-Clamps? And why not tap the holes before installing screws? Great work, it's always nice to see real locksmith work as opposed to just BS lock picking!
Todd Geer they were tapped at 11:34
The plates and clamps will keep the door from bowing out, you definitely don’t want that to happen! Get ya some metal plates & clamps!
What is the name of the tool you used to create the strike plate pocket in the steel door outer covering and where can I get one?
As the title mentions, Squeeze Play. Search Squeeze Play Tool
Who makes that piece to create the deadbolt to fit in the hole comfortably?
it spotfaces the metal never stop learnin! hmm
john reeve never has been a perfect solution but used correctly you will get minimal marks
Thanks Jason. Does the squeeze play have marks to let you know when the depth is correct?
Kevin Koepke no, there’s a definite feel to it (notice I was going slower and slower and letting the metal do its thing without rushing it. Once it gets pretty much too tight to turn you are done. I’ve had to redo many because they didn’t end up being deep enough
One of these days, I'm going to get a torque wrench, and see if there's any consistency. What I hate is having to clear out the wood on a solid core door.
Take the hole saw off, so you can see while drilling the pilot and the saw doesn't make a mess as the pilot goes through, then put the hole saw on and drill the hole...
INSSAN or just use a pilot by itself if you are so inclined to do so
Would this work the same way on a metal door frame?
No, there is no way to mortise the frame
@@selock ok thx for taking time to reply
Does the Squeezy play work on aluminum doors with glass in the middle
No, just for metal doors. You don’t recess locks on glass doors you cut out and mount
Nice video. Isn't there a cup or something you can insert into the strike hole? It looks, well... like an open hole in metal.
that’s my least favorite part about the results of any metal frame install, there are “strike cups” but they are pretty much just press fit in, pop out easily, and suck (especially on tight doors)
What's that contraption you have on your drill there, some sort of leveling system?
Ken _ drill cam!
You don’t install latch plate?
Not if there’s not enough gap in the door. It’s already a metal frame you don’t need a plate
What’s the tool you use to sink in the latch?
where you get that tool to buy that mortise out the latch
Any alternatives, I want to add a dead bolt to my residential door, I can drill through front and back of metal covered door. I can drill the one inch hole on the edge. $200 for this seems expensive for a single use. Couldn’t find anyone who would rent one. Any one used a dremal type tool or osolating tool to cut through the metal for the plate.
Harry Pottar your residential door has a metal edge?
@@selock Yes, I have four external doors that are all metal plated, wood in the middle but metal plated, the edge is u-shaped, goes over the edge of the door then the metal plates over the faces covering the lip. It's very thin, I drilled into it to mount a lock drill guide but then backed off once I realized it had a metal edge. Inspected all the doors and they are all the same. House built about 30 years ago
Harry Pottar hmm there were some oddball ones built back then. There are really only two options with the main one being use a deadbolt with a drive in adaptor or use a latch mounting plate (give me a few to get a link) and cutout a rectangle for it, they have two little legs on top and bottom and it has to be riveted in but is absolutely not ideal for these applications.
Drive in bolt is best option but send me a picture of the edge of the door to selockandkey@gmail.com please
whats it called i work with aluminum doors mostly
thanks jason
Did you tap those holes for the faceplate?
bradleyb4178 yep!
Bart Simpson did the actual tapping part accidentally get cut out? Crap!
No it’s there 11:34
Are these metal hole saws lol, or are you using wood ones like Id do? hahaha this is why my tools never last long.
spray it out