Ender 5 Plus Hotend Upgrade - Printing with PETG Carbon Fiber Awesome Results!
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- #Ender #Hotend #PETG-CF
I have been wanting to print PETG Carbon Fiber for a long time. In this video we will replace the stock hotend on the Ender 5 Plus with a MicroSwiss all metal hotend, that allow you to print as higher temperatures. We will also be adding a harden steel nozzle for abrasive filaments, like Carbon Fiber.
I posted the wrong filament - Below is the filament I used
PRILINE Carbon Fiber PETG 1KG 1.75 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1kg Spool, 1.75 mm,Black
www.amazon.com...
Skip to where you need
0:23 intro
3:05 MicroSwiss description
5:35 Installation
16:18 Brand of PETG-CF
16:40 Test Prints
25:45 Cura Profile
34:39 Cura Experimental Tree Supports
37:54 Closing Thoughts
David Wilson's RUclips Channel
/ woodwaker1
MicroSwiss hotend
store.micro-sw...
Harbor Freight workbench -www.harborfrei....
Disclaimer - This is an instructional video only - I assume no responsibility if you do not become a pro after watching this video. This video is for learning purposes only, you are following the steps in this video at your own risk!
/ tripodsgarage
/ tripodsgarage
/ tripodsgarage
Thanks for watching - Please Like and Subscribe!
BTT SKR V1.4 & SKR V1.4, 32-Bit Control Board, BIGTREETECH TFT35 V3.0 Display- Two Working Modes, Silent board, TMC2208, BIGTREETECH TMC2100 TMC2208 V3.0 TMC2130 V3.0 Stepper Motor Driver, 3D Printer, 3D Printing, Bigtreetech 32bit 1.4 Skr Turbo, CR-10, CR-10s, Ender 3, Ender 3Pro, Ender 5 Pro, Ender 5, creality silent board, silent board, MicroSwiss, all metal hotend, carbon fiber, PETG, awesome prints, great print quality
Great job there. Keep up the videos. I can't wait to get home and start playing around with my 5 plus. I deployed 2 days after putting mine together . No I have so many upgrades sitting there waiting to be put on. Hopefully a couple of weeks and I'll be getting started on mine.
Hello Jeffery, Thanks for watching! If I am reading this right, “thank you for your service!”. If I didn’t read it right, I apologize. I think this is a great starter upgrade. The MicoSwiss all metal hotend isn’t too expensive compared to its competitors. Then add the hardened steel nozzle, this just opens the doors to print a wide verity of filaments. Thanks again for watching! Tripod
I really enjoyed the fact you went through all of these steps and showed what you did to correct it. Most people just show their best result but not how they achieved it. Thank you.
Tripod, Thanks for the shout out!! Glad you could get some use out of the mystery box. You did a great job of dialing in the settings, takes a lot of patience which I don’t have. I’m finally getting some success with PETG, takes a lot of tweaking. Your results on temps, and Z-hop will give me new places to start. I’m down to 0.4 on retraction at 25 mm/sec on my Hemeras and OmniaDrop direct drive hot ends with some success. Keep up the great ideas and videos.
Thank you for your videos. I've had some other printers in the past, but I got an Ender5+ and did your BigTreeTech mods to it. It is honestly the best printer I've ever used. Can't wait to do this hotend upgrade too! Thanks again for the great content!
Hello Carter Lewelly - Thanks for watching! Yeah, I believe the E5+ is a solid machine. The MicroSwiss is a great hotend, and at a reasonable price. I like that it uses the existing wiring. Thangs again - another upgrade is around the corner 😉
Wow Tripod! I’m just amazed by the quality! It seems another upgrade might be coming, and you are going to take it apart again 😉. Thanks again for another great video!
Petg or poly carbonate? you said poly at the beginning and petg later with no explanation.
Congratulations on your 2,000 subscriber!
Dude, THANK YOU for this! My personal settings ended up being slightly different but this is the only detailed vid I could find for the Priline CF PETG and you saved me a TON of time and curse words.
Using an Ender 3 Pro upgraded with 4.2.7 board, custom Marlin firmware, BLTouch, microswiss direct drive all metal hot end, dual z axis screws, and top mounted filament holder with only 1/2" bowden tube coming out of the top of the microswiss.
I matched all of your settings in Cura and ended up having to tweak fan speed and temp. 245 was the sweet spot for me and fan at 30% for ALL layers including bottom. Seems like this material oozes a lot. No fan on bottom layer didnt work for me personally. Not saying it wont for others, but with my setup the oozing was just too much, I had to cool it down.
Anyways, prior to seeing your vid my stringing was horrid and my nozzle kept getting gunked up on the outside thanks to globbing, couldn't make it past even a few layers. In comparison, my settings for PLA print perfectly with 1.5mm retraction @ 30mm/s. Changing to 2.5 @ 50mm/s, travel to 200, and Z hop made a HUGE difference right away.
Btw, pay no mind to the keyboard warriors criticizing your vid. It was EXTREMELY helpful, and your attention to detail in showing every process you went thru was exactly what more vids need to show. You saved me and Im sure many others days upon days of cussing and feeling defeated. I dont give a crap about a little blur here and there, the content was all that mattered. Glad to know you are learning and getting better at it!
Where is the PETG CF ? You literally bought the PC+CF (I also own of their brand - but watched this to see how Priline PETG filled with carbon prints). Why is this video named this if you're printing with CF PolyCarbonate ?
Consider doing something, early on, to avoid the problem I ran into with the Micro Swiss hot end: I went to take the hot end apart and one of their titanium screws came out. The other broke in the hole. That was after hours and hours and hours of printing with their hot end.
If I knew then what I know now, I would have taken apart the heater block, I would have exercised the threads a few times to smooth them out loosen them up just a tiny bit from working the screw. I might have even considered using a drop of high temperature antisieze compound on the threads if I could find something that could handle the temperatures. Then I would put the screws back together.
in fact, when I broke off that second screw, I knew the heater block was messed up, so I just tried to get my heater cartridge out of it because it was still good. I pried the block open with a big flat bladed screw driver, but the heater block was already welded into place. I couldn't get it loose no matter what tool or force I used. So the Micro Swiss heater block, after tons of use, was not serviceable at all. They sent me a new heater block which was great of them, but I needed a working printer now. You're printing tons of those hair and ear relief bands, I'm printing tons of face shield visor frames. I coudln't wait, so I got Amazon to deliver me a new hotend. I needed to install the BTT SKR V1.4 too while I was at it, so down the rabbit hole I went.
Anyway, I'm not knocking the Micro Swiss product itself. It worked great right up until the moment I needed to take it apart. (I had a thermistor error, but Marlin wasn't telling me if it was the hotend or the heated bed. I decided to change the hot end thermistor and it went downhill from there. I think if you find that your hot end heater block comes apart and you put it back together snug but not crazy tight, that you will likely never have the problems I did. I think my problems came from the screws being too tight from the factory and the heater block being used that way for far too long so that when I finally needed to take it apart, I couldn't.
Keep making videos! I love seeing the stuff you are working on and seeing some of the parallels with the things I've tried. I too have played around with PETG Carbon Fiber and I love it. It's great stuff. While it won't have the max working temp of Nylon Carbon Fiber, it is easier to print than NylonX or similar, it does have more UV stability than Nylon does. All plastic gets eaten by the sun to some degree, but Nylon is a little more susceptible to UV than PETG, so I made a part that is going to be used outdoors out of PETG Carbon Fiber. I was really happy with how it turned out. Anyway, I like how your prints turned out. Good job!
I love ur video so much I am in your YT when u first time start
welcome to the microswiss 5+ crew lol. u should try the hero me 5 with it. keep up the good work man
When they see the MicroSwiss stuff, They will WANT to buy one. Cant fault the quality and action. If you thought the Standard stuff rocks, Mircoswiss makes those rocks diamonds.
Well done tripod. bear bear bear
papapower - Bear is hiding because of the fireworks- poor pup 😞
Tripods Garage hmmm... sad, but I understand. There are fireworks going on all over the city in Texas where I am currently located.
All of three of mine were under the bed shaking.
Your Geiger counter keeps going off buddy!
Tamiya wrench! I saw your rc trucks in the your 5plus upgrade vid!
Nice catch!
Yeeeha! This is great! Nice one! Great result! Really like it;)
Hey bud! Glad you like the video! The results exceeded my expectations, of course it took a little work to get there 😉
Tripods Garage in order to get good prints of my printer I print out already 3 kg of petg;) a lot of factors from temperature to the retraction speed and so on!;)
Great video thanks! The noise from the lens focusing motor is pretty loud, you may want to go back to your previous one. Cheers 🍻
Hello Mark - I used the new lens on intro, showing the MicoSwiss, MicroSwiss install, and last part of the video. A $1,200 lens should perform better. I was totally frustrated, I wound up using my iPhone for the printed part closeups. Thanks for watching, glad you still like the video, given my production issues 😉
I had problems with my extruder crushing the filament and that caused it to get stuck there and not extrude. I have a microswiss a2 0.4 nozzle, maybe it had a hard time pushing it through. Anyways I have a bondtech double gear on the way.
A geared extruder will have much more push so you KNOW that if it starts missing steps you have a clog :P :)
The problem with Micro Swiss is you have to take a drill to it and bore out the center in order to apply the Luke ptfe fix.
*trying to look absolutely serious* :)
Thomas Andersson - love it! Wondering how people might have tried it 🤔
@@TripodsGarageI REALLY hope not :P Considering the diameter of the heat break neck drilling it out for the ptfe tube would result in REALLY thin and fragile walls. Interestingly enough both TH3D and Triangle Labs sell V6 heat breaks with PTFE lining so you can run V6 compatible parts with PTFE lined interior.
Content question: Why did you decide not to use thermal interace material between the heating cartridge and the heating block?
Production suggestions: Get a good quality microphone, record all your audio separately from the video and sync it up in post. The difference in sound quality when you are showing Cura is jarring.
Record videos of your prints without audio and do the voice-over after the fact in a more controlled environment. That way you can structure your presentation without having to do it all in one take or pausing for motorcycles or apologizing for birds. You can also reshoot individual prints or incorporate photos if you notice that the autofocus didn't work.
I feel like this video could have been 10-15 minutes shorter (and thus seen by more people) if you had a more structured approach and cut out more of the technical mishaps.
Excellent video of the back of your hands... 🙂
Thanks! I know it wasn’t as exciting as feeding crows, but I try 👍
good video, I will watch it a few times...
just a heads up for those considering the spider from creality as a micro swiss alternative
spider is advertised at 500 degrees. it will never reach this with the thermistor they package, since it maxes out at 300.
There is no firmware that allows a 500 degree use on their site and therefore, if you want 500 degrees, youd need a pt100 or pt1000 - wether this fits the spider, or is advised is not clear. i for one am returning all my spider hotends due to misleading advertising.
upgrading to a pt sensor may well void your warranty, since creality
themselves do not offer a 500 degree capable hotend firmware.
to top it all off, filament can get blocked due to the increased cooling and will need to be used at much higher temps, eg previously i could print PLA at 190, with a spider it needs to be 220-240, PETG would need to be set (for me) to 255-260, instead of 230-240
this means that 300 degrees offered by the 'upgraded' thermistor packaged with the spider, is a psuedo upgrade.. since all temps need to be increased when using the all metal hotend anyway, ie, a filament needing 275-280 degrees, will need 300 just to get it heated to the same viscosity
hotend nozzles are extended and look like the ender 7 nozzles.. but creality even dont have any listed for the spider - your existing standard sized nozzles wont work
If you have a CR Touch or any other ABL, and want a creality firmware - forget it, they have two seperate firmwares, one catering for spider, one for cr touch.. but nothing for both in one.
Marlin for example on the other hand, you can configure the crtouch and the 300 degree thermistor during set up.. but i think ill avoid that and grab another hotend rated at 450-500 and is either packaged with items like a thermistor in line with their claimed specs, or at least know their product and be able to advise and guaratee their hotend when upgraded with higher spec thermistors if not packaged with the hotend itself
Great vid... but I'm going to have to say that the lens change you did is not really working for you. Maybe it's because I'm watching it on a full size TV but the out of focus then refocus is kind of hard on my eyes.
Thanks for watching! Yeah, I’m not really an expert with cameras. My Camera is only a few months old, and I just bought this Canon USM lens. Think I need to do some more testing, and have that dialed in before my next video 😉. I’m sure it was user error, than it being an equipment problem.
@@TripodsGarage Just let it sit in a can of oil for a bit and it will take care of the noises. * **
*Please don't
** REALLY please don't ;)
Sadly this thunder crash here took all my savings so now all printer upgrades and the plans for DD is indefinitely on hold.
My hotend looked like that after its 4th use when spooling interfered with the cooling fan!
Why didn't you use the MS DD system while you were upgrading to their AM hot end??? Seems like a no brainer.
The MS DD wasn’t out during the time I did this upgrade. However, you are correct it is a no brainer to do this as a single upgrade. Thanks for watching!
@@TripodsGarage I'm considering the same upgrade for the same reasons. Are you still happy with the MS & the filament?
I have yet to purchase my 3D printer yet but I intend to print PETG and this Ender 5 Pro is the model I'm looking at. This video was rather informative and I am grateful for your attention to detail with it. I am curious about the Z hop and what it is because I have absolutely no idea. My humidity is usually much worse than your garage also which begs the question for me of do I go with some enclosed printer instead? If so any suggestions? Thank you again excellent video!
Ok I was going to try and get the DyzEnd and extruder but if this will do the trick I can save some $$$!
Dude you forgot to put thermal paste on the Heating Cartridge!!!!! Definition: Thermal Paste - A silvery-gray substance that you apply to a processor before installing a cooling solution. It allows for an efficient transfer of heat that is designed to dissipate that heat. Just a thought for you! Not sure you are going to want to take it apart again!
TechRich4u
Most thermal paste is intended for lower temperatures such as in PC applications. It’s probably a bad idea to use it unless you’re sure it will handle the maximum temperatures.
How are you getting such smooth bottom layer prints on your benchys? Mine never look like that, and I even have a direct drive.
I don't see why it's necessary to replace the heat block. It seems to me there's significant risk to damaging the heat element and thermistor for no reason. When I do this mod I will install the direct drive extruder.
Do I want to lick the hotend to help cool it down? lol I just upgraded my ender 3 to the Dragonfly BMO. Love your videos.
How is your ender 5 Plus holding after almost 2 year? I have one on the way and looking forward to it.
Hello. Great Video! Does it have less flexibility compared to ordinary PETG, or just a little less flexibility? I've always given up on common PETG in my designs because it's extremely flexible and my parts can't have much flexibility.
Very informative video but damn is that camera a potato
Yeah! Think I get more comments on this darn camera lens! It wasn’t a cheap lens either... it is a camera potatoe! Canon - EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM - shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/ef-24-70mm-f-28l-ii-usm?Product_Search&Google_Product_Feed&cm_mmc=GA-_-ef_24_70mm_f_28l_ii_usm-_-G_Canon_Product+Listing+Ads-_-24310&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq7e84vzE7QIVpvLACh2pOw24EAQYASABEgIEyfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
@@TripodsGarage Im a Nikon guy, but that camera has to have AF settings that you can tweek. That said, those prints are awesome and Im sold on using it. I was thinking PEEKCF but the upgrades to my Ender5 pro would be all of them to use it AFAIK
Thanks for the camera advice! Right now I will lock the focus, and use my iPhone in the closeup shots. I bought the lens and haven’t really had a chance to tweak it, even learn how to use it yet. I was absolutely floored when I saw the prints with no post processing!
Why did you even bother taking the first hotend off if you were just taking everything off and replacing anyways?
You said on the Amazon page you ordered the polycarbonate but the video is titled PETG and you refer to it as PETG the remainder of the video. Which did you use?
Fantastic information, sir. I am brand new to 3D printing; my Ender 5 Pro should arrive in about 8 days. I'm scared and excited at the same time. i agree with you - criticism be damned. Isn't the entire point to try and figure out how to get the best prints possible? Why would anyone criticize you for that (this being asked after getting a dose of human nature on display every day)?
I will employ your spirit of trail and error and exploration to try and achieve similar results. Hoping to get some awesome prints for my N-scale model railroad. Question: do you think you can run these printers with smaller nozzles, say .4mm or even .3mm? Those n-scale people are very tiny.
Thanks for posting; much appreciated.
What settings are you running to print petg. Also did you do anything firmware wise to your 3d printer for the microswiss?
I want to print carbon fiber, until now I was only printing PLA, what parts of my printer should I change?
Hi and thanks. What did you use to adhere the petg to the glass bed? I'm having issues getting the same exact material to stick.
Cool, 45 likes before I even knew it was up! :)
I'm confused 😕 did you print PC or PETG?
What setting in cura petg, abs, generic petg? Can you do a follow up video with just settings? In cura it would be a big help I’m dying here lol
What’s 1.2? You said the benchy was done real well with 1.2 is that layer height? Or what?
PETG or polycarbonate? (16:17)
Greetings Stoja87 - it is PETG-CF. I realized I posted my other order. Here is the PETG-CF I used. PRILINE Carbon Fiber PETG 1KG 1.75 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1kg Spool, 1.75 mm,Black www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZN44383/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lTFaFbTWWFJ9R
Did you have any problem with your BLtouch? Like not leveling correctly?
How to you know how and when to change your z offset also I have an ender 3 v2 with microswiss direct drive and printing petg is blobbing and I calibrated my extruder I and do I choose generic petg in cura for settings?
Hey! Post that direct drive mount on thingiverse??
Also I still haven’t figured out to rotate my screen on curA?
How strong is this carbon material
I have an ended 5 pro can I use stock to print carbon fiber?
did you have any clogging issues?
What temp is the bed/nozzle while using this filament?
I don’t get it, what stops you from having a higher temperature with a copper nozzle? It’s not as if the printer can go much higher right.
To pay so much for such a tiny part!
It isn’t the nozzle. It is the PTFE tube that cannot take the high heat. I went with the hardend nozzle to use abrasive filaments.
Would you share your start G code? Thanks!
dont know. but the Sound quali of ur mic is unbelievable baaaad -.-
Hello Cloonyontheroad - Thanks for your feedback. I’m trying to get better equipment when I can, I am self funded. I would appreciate if could comment on the review also. Thanks for watching!
LOL at everybody here who's saying, "Thanks for showing us!" when what we were shown was 40 minutes of some outta focus hands doing ... something.
Pretty hard to balance with one leg, and keep everything in focus for you. I wouldn't expect you to understand that. At least it is more entertaining than watching a wheel going through Milwaukee.
@Tripods Garage So, a channel called "Tripod's Garage" doesn't have a concept of how to properly use a tripod? Ironic.
Also, I wouldn't be so confident about that last bit.
@@Doughillman - A person with two legs not getting the concept of standing on one leg, and bracing oneself for stability. Yeah, I totally get how a tripod would be handy for my stability 😂😂😂.
@Tripods Garage Now, I'll admit, yes, I do have both legs. As far as I can tell though, that's never actually benefited my ability to position a camera in such a manner that it shows what I'm working on. Basically, I just look at the camera output and if it shows something blocking what I want it to film, I move it until the shot is properly framed. I don't THINK one would need both legs to look at a camera feed and see that it's filming nothing but my out-of-focus hands, but, as you point out, I don't actually KNOW that. Am I mistaken? Are you physically incapable of framing a shot due to your missing appendage?
@@Doughillman - Let me simplify this the best that I can. I use two crutches for stability, form my right leg being almost fully amputated. The E5+ is on a table\cart, the hotend is about 4.5ft (ish) from the ground. Then there is a SLR camera to the right of me on a tripod. I am trying to be out of the way of the camera tripod without bumping into it. I then move my crutches out of the way, and balance on one leg. I have to try not to lean on the 3d printer, while standing on one leg trying my best to be stable. I am trying not to lose my balance, and not bump the printer, or the camera next to me. Then trying to lean back to see if I have a good shot. If I remember right, this video even might have a camera bump. Something that people take for granted, either makes my tasks much harder and longer to accomplish. Standing on one foot for more than 2 or 3 minutes starts to get painful. I remember taking a lot of breaks during the filming of this video. I don't expect anyone that isn't handicapped to understand the complications of shooting a video that might seem to be easy to them. Over the last 8+ months I have learned how to adjust how I do my videos. I spend a lot more time with staging and audio. Plus most of my videos now voiced over, makes it much easier to balance the audio. All the computers, cameras, and microphones have been self funded. I look at my first videos, compared to now, and I just have a good laugh. I always appreciate candid advice, however the way you worded your comment really doesn't read like advise.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
It says 100 in the slide with the price
thanks for the video of your right hand...
I did it just for you! I was auditioning to be a hand model in this video 👍. I forgot to hand out pacifiers for you keyboard warriors.
And what happened to your second leg?
@@illiavolha5129 - I lost it to cancer when I was 15
@@TripodsGarage Listen, I am seriously, there are so many useful information for owner of this printer in the video, but what a fuck, video is blurry, focus is shit, and only single point of view that closed 80% of time by your hand. Refilm it and make x10 views and likes. Many people want upgrade their printers without buying new more expensive ones. What did you use to film it? My s8 active that old like hell making a better job when I film even small objects.
Life is a bitch, but you still can have some fun with it, as with any other bitch... Just saw your video about apple watch counting your steps..You have a sense of humor. That's good. And you survived that shit, which is also good. Will try to upgrade my, is there some links to buy all you showed, or something else that I need. Trying to contact Creality but they don't answer me. what exactly do I need to buy to print with Carbon. Another question that I have: on every print after some random time of the print it stucks and feeder can not move the filament forward. The only things that helps is to recharge it with filament. Did you have this issue on yours? What can it be. It has some noise when it happens, like knocking on the feeder. Any ideas?